Love this stuff. I work at a shop part time and I am super particular with tuning. can't wait for the rest of your stuff. I believe in never stop learning, you will never know it all.
Good stuff...helpful. The laser tool is new to me so I don't know how it is designed. A close up of the tool and where you placed it on the cam or alongside the cam would be helpful. Thanks and best wishes.
If the laser is offset from the cam wouldnt pointing them at the cam instead of the same distance offset make them not parallel? Which would mean they would have a slightly induced lean instead of being true.
❤❤❤ Love this video!!! I've got a VTM, I'll be waiting for the Hoyt episode. Also, can you talk about and take apart the new Hoyt HBX Pro Cam and show how to inspect it for damage (i.e. axles, barrings, washers extra.) Thanks MFJJ, you make me a better bow technician. ✌🏽
Great explanation. I need to get back into a Bowtech. Seem so easy to tune. Tried the Mathews thing, great bow but I just don’t think it’s for me. SS34 or Reckoning 36 seem like fantastic bows!! 🤘🏼
I truly can’t wait for the tuning series with all the bows. Such a great idea. The only thing I would ask is how to tune these cams if you do not have a laser level?
MFJJ, just read all the comments. You are teaching a whole bunch of us some very good information so we get our bows set up correctly. Wherever possible could you also include techniques that don't require expensive tooling? Many of us are tuning only 1 or 2 bows and $150.00 for a laser tool is a bit steep.
I have noticed that if working on a bow with adjustable cable system, it's better to adjust for fletching clearance, then adjust cam lean after that. I usually set cables so that there is about 1/8" - 3/16" from the inside of the rest to the closest cable.
This was a lot of help can we have one on proper way to adjust the draw length. No pro shop close to me so may be doing it myself and I just got into archery a couple months age. Thanks
Could you please explain the why behind checking and full draw compared to at rest. I've only heard you say that's how it's done, but not explain why exactly.
Would you be able to show us one done on a LCA draw board? As I presume this would be what the majority of people would have at home. I know it's only 90 degrees difference but I'm sure there would be things to keep an eye on whilst doing it. Also a video on a limb swap on a LCA press would be a nice edition diy stuff your doing.
Thanks for the content Josh. Just a suggestion though.. I know all of this stuff seems super obvious to you, to the point where you may not think about it or assume others just know; but maybe before you start a 4 part series on wheel adjustment, you could maybe do a video or a long intro on when to check the wheeling, why it is important, and when (if ever) you could maybe adjust the wheeling out of alignment to obtain a tune. (Even though I’m sure there is lots of info on this on ArcheryTalk, your favourite place lol) Even as someone who does all of their own bow work, I was slightly confused as to what you were trying to achieve at first as I’ve never seen this laser tool before. You are essentially trying to take out the cam lean at full draw as a starting point in the tuning process. Many setup their bow with the bow string level in a static state but when it really matters what the cams and string are doing is at full draw. My question is once you get into yoke tuning, would that not take the cams out of alignment again? If you shim one cam and it gives you a perfect tune with rest set at 3/16”, would you still suggest shimming the other cam to keep them in line and your string level to the riser but then have to take that rest slightly out of centre shot to get the tune?
Could you do reviews of older model bows? Maybe the most popular and classic compound bows ever made. Im not sure if its a classic, but I shoot with my trusty Bowtech Commander 2008 Testarossa. Its a very pretty bow and great for target shooting, could you review it? I would like to know how it stacks up against newer bows.
3 місяці тому+1
Hey MFJJ could you share how you built the draw board in the video. I see that it looks like it took a little welding and lead screw. What system did you construct to travel up an down the lead screw? Thanks! Enjoy your videos.
If the laser beam of the Spot hogg is shining down the grove that is placed against the outside of the one cam, wouldn't we want the dot to appear just outside the other cam rather than pointing to the middle? Maybe I am overthinking it, but if the beam is pointing straight down the side of the cam I would think it would leave a bit of a lean in the cam if the dot were dead center of the other cam. Just thought it was worth asking.
Hi MFJJ, I live in Zimbabwe so a bit difficult to get lasers etc. I have a SX80, what I have done is used a Vermeer to make sure both cams are equal distance from the edge of the cam bearing to the screw bracket and paper tuned. Now it’s shooting a perfect bullet hole and a bareshaft with tape on the end hits with fletched arrows out to 40y, however, I do have some lean and I am sure if I put a laser on it, it would be off. So the Vermeer is showing exactly the same measurement on both sides and the bow is shooting darts out to 80y. Do I need to be concerned about the lean
Why does the laser point directly at the opposite cam instead of slightly on the side of the bow you're holding the laser on? Doesn't the laser showing up on the string groove of the opposite cam mean that there is slight lean in the cam with the laser on it?
Hey Brother. I don't have a laser or a draw board yet, so I had my nephew put a bare shaft arrow on the cams of my Bear Legit while I was at full draw. And they are lined up about where the laser was originally pointing on the cams on your bow. So pretty far off. And the yokes can't be adjusted any more without the cams rubbing the yokes. It shoots bare shafts about 3/8ths tail high or point low. Should I have it looked at? Or just run with it? I've only had it for about 4 months.
So, what would be the harm in moving both deadlocks all the way right or left on both cams till they stop, then moving both of them a certain amount of turns the same way to achieve center? Looking forward to this series!! Keep them coming and appreciate all the knowledge and tutorials!
My guess is different pressure on upper and lower limbs: since drawing at the D-Loop is not exact center of the riser creates varying limb tilt or cam lean.
Hey Josh! in my bowtech I really have both cams more tilted than It should. An issue that I think does not come from the cam shaft. I think the tilt comes from the limb itself. One is more flexed that the other. Should I mess with the cables? twist or untwist one of those to see if the cams align back on?
Nice video and very useful. Can't wait until you do this for the other bows you mentioned. Also, maybe show other ways of checking the alignment with out the Spot Hogg tool?
Don’t u tneed to take into consideration the 1/2 inch the laser is above the base like height over bore, it’s aiming at the cam but it’s 1/2 inch off, I have a laser and it’s something that’s been driving me nuts
The Spott Hogg Bow laser is recessed into the reference surface and there is machined groove to allow the laser to travel directly through the reference surface. Its awesome.
I don't watch for free stuff. I just like the content.
I'm really enjoying your 4 bow selection and setup series. I'm following along for sure to see how you do it for the other bows as well.
Great explanation on how to adjust cams. Keep doing these informational videos. Learning a lot from them.
Love this stuff. I work at a shop part time and I am super particular with tuning. can't wait for the rest of your stuff. I believe in never stop learning, you will never know it all.
Always very instructive. The podcast is also a pleasure to follow.👍
At the very least you're giving people knowledge so they don't get hosed at a bow shop. I love the tech part of things so keep them coming.
Good stuff...helpful. The laser tool is new to me so I don't know how it is designed. A close up of the tool and where you placed it on the cam or alongside the cam would be helpful. Thanks and best wishes.
Love these videos! Keep ‘‘em coming!
Love this. Exactly what I needed to know for my sons bow
I've seen you do this in other videos, appreciate you fully explaining your process!
My favorite archery channel!
Outstanding series! Very valuable for us diy tuners. Thank you!
Thumbs up on the tuning series. It helps a lot.
I absolutely love this tunning video.
great video i look forward to all the upcoming videos you mentioned 🤘
Never saw that before, never saw my local shop do anything like that either- thank you for explaining
Great vid; love Bowtech.
Awesome man I'm new to working on my own bows and I really like your videos thanks man keep them coming
Thank you Josh for the great informational and how too video Thank you for sharing God's Blessings with us
I love the tuneability of the Bowtech's. Can't wait to see the video's on the other brands.
Great learning info.Thx Josh!!
Great how to video! Thanks for sharing.
Great video. That’s why I love my Revolt X.
Ditto previous comments regards would love to see that draw board build or details
Great video, as always
Great video ideas man keep it up
Please do prime as well. Revex.
Thanks for doing bowtech . My revolt will be adjusted now . Love to see proshops do this SOP
🤘Awesome video, can’t wait for the Mathew’s phase 4 one🤘
This is great info.
I hope you go through the S.E.T. technology on the Elites as well.
Great buddy...good job
If the laser is offset from the cam wouldnt pointing them at the cam instead of the same distance offset make them not parallel? Which would mean they would have a slightly induced lean instead of being true.
❤❤❤ Love this video!!! I've got a VTM, I'll be waiting for the Hoyt episode. Also, can you talk about and take apart the new Hoyt HBX Pro Cam and show how to inspect it for damage (i.e. axles, barrings, washers extra.) Thanks MFJJ, you make me a better bow technician. ✌🏽
Great series idea
When are we going to get an instructional video on building your power draw board?
I made one but it’s not quite as smooth and it’s slower because I used threaded rod and it appears he used an acme gear.
Great explanation. I need to get back into a Bowtech. Seem so easy to tune. Tried the Mathews thing, great bow but I just don’t think it’s for me. SS34 or Reckoning 36 seem like fantastic bows!! 🤘🏼
Good stuff!!!
Do a video on how to make that draw board or post a link please!
I truly can’t wait for the tuning series with all the bows. Such a great idea.
The only thing I would ask is how to tune these cams if you do not have a laser level?
MFJJ, just read all the comments. You are teaching a whole bunch of us some very good information so we get our bows set up correctly.
Wherever possible could you also include techniques that don't require expensive tooling? Many of us are tuning only 1 or 2 bows and $150.00 for a laser tool is a bit steep.
Thank you.
Good video mfjj! I hope they release the time tuning like on there target bow on there hunting this year fingers crossed!
I have noticed that if working on a bow with adjustable cable system, it's better to adjust for fletching clearance, then adjust cam lean after that. I usually set cables so that there is about 1/8" - 3/16" from the inside of the rest to the closest cable.
This was a lot of help can we have one on proper way to adjust the draw length. No pro shop close to me so may be doing it myself and I just got into archery a couple months age. Thanks
Could you please explain the why behind checking and full draw compared to at rest. I've only heard you say that's how it's done, but not explain why exactly.
Awesome
Would you be able to show us one done on a LCA draw board? As I presume this would be what the majority of people would have at home. I know it's only 90 degrees difference but I'm sure there would be things to keep an eye on whilst doing it. Also a video on a limb swap on a LCA press would be a nice edition diy stuff your doing.
Thanks for the content Josh. Just a suggestion though.. I know all of this stuff seems super obvious to you, to the point where you may not think about it or assume others just know; but maybe before you start a 4 part series on wheel adjustment, you could maybe do a video or a long intro on when to check the wheeling, why it is important, and when (if ever) you could maybe adjust the wheeling out of alignment to obtain a tune. (Even though I’m sure there is lots of info on this on ArcheryTalk, your favourite place lol) Even as someone who does all of their own bow work, I was slightly confused as to what you were trying to achieve at first as I’ve never seen this laser tool before. You are essentially trying to take out the cam lean at full draw as a starting point in the tuning process. Many setup their bow with the bow string level in a static state but when it really matters what the cams and string are doing is at full draw. My question is once you get into yoke tuning, would that not take the cams out of alignment again? If you shim one cam and it gives you a perfect tune with rest set at 3/16”, would you still suggest shimming the other cam to keep them in line and your string level to the riser but then have to take that rest slightly out of centre shot to get the tune?
Can't wait for the hoyt and mathews versions
Can’t wait for the Mathew’s, trying to absorb all the knowledge 😅
You're sure your not a Zimbabwean?. Your cool man.
Could you do reviews of older model bows? Maybe the most popular and classic compound bows ever made.
Im not sure if its a classic, but I shoot with my trusty Bowtech Commander 2008 Testarossa. Its a very pretty bow and great for target shooting, could you review it? I would like to know how it stacks up against newer bows.
Hey MFJJ could you share how you built the draw board in the video. I see that it looks like it took a little welding and lead screw. What system did you construct to travel up an down the lead screw? Thanks! Enjoy your videos.
That laser will make things so much easier.
If the laser beam of the Spot hogg is shining down the grove that is placed against the outside of the one cam, wouldn't we want the dot to appear just outside the other cam rather than pointing to the middle? Maybe I am overthinking it, but if the beam is pointing straight down the side of the cam I would think it would leave a bit of a lean in the cam if the dot were dead center of the other cam. Just thought it was worth asking.
Keep up this exact same thing. Very interested in all the other bows now
Man I wish my “pro shop” knew how to properly set up a bow!
Great video but I had two of them hooks break on me checking bows at full draw.
Hi MFJJ, I live in Zimbabwe so a bit difficult to get lasers etc. I have a SX80, what I have done is used a Vermeer to make sure both cams are equal distance from the edge of the cam bearing to the screw bracket and paper tuned. Now it’s shooting a perfect bullet hole and a bareshaft with tape on the end hits with fletched arrows out to 40y, however, I do have some lean and I am sure if I put a laser on it, it would be off. So the Vermeer is showing exactly the same measurement on both sides and the bow is shooting darts out to 80y. Do I need to be concerned about the lean
Why does the laser point directly at the opposite cam instead of slightly on the side of the bow you're holding the laser on? Doesn't the laser showing up on the string groove of the opposite cam mean that there is slight lean in the cam with the laser on it?
Does the cable rub on the cam?
Hey Brother. I don't have a laser or a draw board yet, so I had my nephew put a bare shaft arrow on the cams of my Bear Legit while I was at full draw. And they are lined up about where the laser was originally pointing on the cams on your bow. So pretty far off. And the yokes can't be adjusted any more without the cams rubbing the yokes. It shoots bare shafts about 3/8ths tail high or point low. Should I have it looked at? Or just run with it? I've only had it for about 4 months.
what is the best arrow rest tunning ' levels for you arrow and string set up ,,, please help me out here,,
So, what would be the harm in moving both deadlocks all the way right or left on both cams till they stop, then moving both of them a certain amount of turns the same way to achieve center? Looking forward to this series!! Keep them coming and appreciate all the knowledge and tutorials!
I was thinking the same. Only guess I can think of is if the cam isn’t wasn’t centered, or to compensate for natural machining ranges
My guess is different pressure on upper and lower limbs: since drawing at the D-Loop is not exact center of the riser creates varying limb tilt or cam lean.
@@waynestevenson9613 That’s a good point.
@@Angel.Custodio Also a good point
Limb defection variation
Hey Josh! in my bowtech I really have both cams more tilted than It should. An issue that I think does not come from the cam shaft. I think the tilt comes from the limb itself. One is more flexed that the other. Should I mess with the cables? twist or untwist one of those to see if the cams align back on?
Nice video and very useful. Can't wait until you do this for the other bows you mentioned. Also, maybe show other ways of checking the alignment with out the Spot Hogg tool?
SEVR BROAD-HEAD REVIEW?
Comment for the algorithm, your welcome
Mfjj send me one of them new bows over her to ireland 🤘🤘
Great video, thanks - do you also use tiller adjustment to change the feel and shooting point of your SS34?
Don’t u tneed to take into consideration the 1/2 inch the laser is above the base like height over bore, it’s aiming at the cam but it’s 1/2 inch off, I have a laser and it’s something that’s been driving me nuts
The Spott Hogg Bow laser is recessed into the reference surface and there is machined groove to allow the laser to travel directly through the reference surface. Its awesome.
hello mfjj we are a small community of archer's Nor*Cal Bay Area that Support Archery How did the your Bowtech perform in Big Sky Montana.
Doing this will strip the tuning screw and your cams will never turn as smoothly as they did from the factory.
I agree. Bowtech customer service advises against tuning the Deadlock at full draw. It is hard on the axle threads.
MFJJ with the how and why's you can't beat it.
Let's Go Brandon!
Heard this guy can do 100 push ups in 20 minutes 🫵
Good stuff!!!