In an email I was told the price on Amazon would be $599. I just checked, and Anycubic has it listed on Amazon for $739. I really hope this is an accident and I wasn't given incorrect information.
I have a anycubic Chiron with the same bed and you have to let the bed cool. Even under the print. People will touch the bed and think it's cool but under the print not so much. I come back a couple hours after the print finishes and even large prints will pop off with little effort. You can also reduce your bottom layer flow rate a bit. Will help if your prints are sticking to much on any printer.
Just a tip I've learned that I want to share to everyone watching. When removing tpu from glass, do it while the glass is still hot. It's a lot easier to peel off that way. Otherwise once it cools down it holds to glass like glue! I like to catch it right at the end of the print and peel it off. I've tried reheating the glass after it has cooled down and that didn't seem to help much either. Happy printing.
TPU should be printet without a heated bed. I reactivated my Flashforge Finder which has no heated bed and it prints perfectly (and it's my only direct extruder ;))
I flipped the plate over to the glass and had no problems with removing my prints once it cooled down. Also, I replaced the plastic bearing wheels with metal ones and no squeaking. Still going strong with no other issues . . . for now! 🍻 💪🏾
hey man just wondering, can you give an update if u still use it and if theres a yes or a no then tell me why? im thinking about getting one myself.. or is it outdated?
I just stumbled upon this looking for Cura settings and you hit the nail on the head. I'm still playing with Cura just to see what works best, but out of the gate this thing was printing SO much better than my CR10 ever did.
I keep searching for the best kobra max settings, my prints just string CONSTANTLY and after playing with temp, retraction and speed for days I just can't get the finish right. Where do you find these settings? :(
Your cuts and videos are stupendous! My smile was a permanent fixture from beginning to end. To me, failures due to a print bed, are a NON-ISSUE. "Im not buying this house... because I dont like the bedroom paint color."
I have had the Chiron for years and have been satisfied with it. I have had things stick to the bed too hard, but I always use washable water gluestick now, and things come off quickly. It is built cheaply, though, and I have had to replace many parts. Luckily any cubic always sent them to me for free based on warranty. I did add a direct drive to mine instead of Bowden now, I had issues with the filament extruder just chewing up filament before, and I use it with a palette as well. The majority of the time, everything prints well for me. I upgraded all the parts and printed high-temp with it. When it is time for an upgrade, I will go with the max. as far as price is concerned, I don't see too many other printers that are competitive with it based on size and capabilities.
Any time I get one of the beds with the silicon-carbide surface, I flip it over and print on the naked glass. While carborundum does a great job of holding onto models with a small footprint, the risk to my nozzle, combined with the weird behaviour on some filaments (black silk - might as well have been welded to the bed), makes it not worth it on anything but finicky prints in basic PLA. Another great video, Joel! Thanks for posting!
Joel, I enjoyed your review as always. I've been using flexible build plates on all my machines for a couple of years now, and I'll never go back to using tape or glue or whatever. Really can't see why you would ever want to mess with any of those methods when the flex plates are so easy to install (if the machine doesn't come with one) and so convenient to use.
@@McBearyOne - it's a year or two ago now, but we bought a small sheet of stainless steel on eBay, then trimmed it to fit our i3 - it even has an insulated handle! I'd certainly give that a try, it was not costly.
G'day Joel. Great video mate. Kudos for providing such constructive feedback and an honest review. Loved the big model aeroplane motor you built. Shame it didn't run, as I would've loved to see it go. Cheers from downunder. Aaron.
I got the at squeak on a few of my printers as well, it was actually the cooling fan rubbing on the cowl of the print head, the blades where too loose on the fan and they wobbled enough to make that noise, also, in the case of my CR6 SE to rub a groove in the cowling housing. A fan swap fixed the issue, but it is a bummer that it happens form the factory like that.
Very interesting setup for the Y. I dont mind how they did that oddly, figured I would. Distributing the load over 2 rails with lots of wheels is nice, but may lead to issues with those bearings with HEAVY prints. Any luck oiling the bearings? It sounded to me that it might have been in the extruder!
I ALWAYS use hairspray on my glass beds, not for adhesion, but as a release agent. I started doing that right after I tore a chunk of glass out of my glass bed when printing with PETG.
Thank God I ordered the extra satin build plate. I had a feeling it was available for a reason. My first printer was the Photon D2. I loved it so much 3 days later I ordered the Kobra Max bundle with a extra build plate I paid like $650 for the bundle with extra filament and build plate
I have a anycubic chiron and it's an awesome machine for the most part I have used it a lot more than my ender 3. All the issues you're facing with the kobra I've had with the chiron which is disappointing given there is a few years between them you'd think they would have figured that out already. Blue masking tape has been my go to for my prints on the glass to help it release. I wish they released the nozzle bed levelling for aftermarket.
i would like the machine to have a sheet of build tack on it. my original m3 mega came with it before they went to the ultra base. i love it. easy to remove items. but nice to see what it can do. the prints look awesome.
I am so incredibly impressed with this printer. After years on a wanhao where I spent more time working on it than I did actually printing, it's nice to just put it together, and let it do what it's made to do. Print.
It is like an upgraded Chiron: all the new features and most of the upgrades. Things I did not see in the review: is there a filament run out sensor? Does the filament sensor detect stopped/jammed filament? Is the bed heating evenly? Does it resume properly after a power fail? Does the firmware allow notifications back to Octoprint when the filament runs out? Does the bed have amosfet so I can keep it powered after power loss?
good to see they redesigned the belt tensioners, they look to be compatible with Vyper and I might upgrade those because belt tensioners on Vyper are horrible
I have got the latest Cobra Max,-still in the box- About the plate...I would use a heat gun in the meantime to help release the print from those areas because I know it could even take a chunk of your plate I drastic enough. Remember it is designed to hold large prints. Thank you for your great reviews, Joel!!
One of the first things I got for my CR6 max was the flex plate, so much better than the glass. Which this looks like a very close 2nd cousin of the cr6 max.
The problem with the tolerances not working when scaling... Thats another power of designing a model parametrically. If you want to scale it afterwards you can do it with changing one number. If you use the parameters correctly. Always start with a "scale" parameter, set to 1. Include that scale parameter with ever measurement that is an actual dimension. so like "body_height_a*scale" But dont include it in the tolerances. You should even use parameters for every tolerance so you can tweak those in the entire model afterwards with the change of one number. So say the tolerances need to be 0.1mm when you print with a 0.4mm nozel, but you switch to a 0.8 to print larger and it needs to be a larger tolerance, no problem. Change one number.
For those printing TPU and having trouble removing it from Flexible Beds.remove the be from the machine and go to the sink and drench that print in isopropyl alcohol and carefully remove the part with or without the help of a spatula
I feel always so excited when there is new 3D printer with a large print volume in the market. I need an after some months review for Kobra Max. Is there some problem or needed repairment in this following months? Thanks for this video and your review Covering the plate with scotch could be an option for models not to stick on? I saw in some other videos but I wanted to ask you. Thanks
It sounds like anycubic needs to put a thicker (relatively flat) aluminum bed plate on it and a removable build plate with it. I think that would be nice since the thin aluminum bed plates warp alot
The printer look good and all but what Stephan did with the stl is way more intriguing to me lool. He probably remodeled it to adjust the clearance that well for sure, working with an stl file is such a pain
First of all, great video, love the humor lol. Question I have is this printer big enough to handle 1/32 scale models of sections for assembling buildings, I tried finding info on what size of 3D printer needed for 1/32 scale with no luck, will this one work or one of the cheaper costing Kobra's, thanks for any help...
Have you considered G10/FR4 for the build surface? I switched from Creality's glass bed to the 1/16" G10/FR4 and it's amazing, the prints stick great during printing and slide right off when it cools and it's flexible so you can flex it to pop prints off as well and you don't need to heat bed with TPU.
A ton of people in the Vyper Facebook group begged them to make it so you can adjust the Z-Offset in 0.01 increments... And they just don't listen. Hope you as a larger creator will be able to convince them!
Joel…. I use bumble and bumble oil free finishing spray on my build surfaces. I first spray the area lightly, then bake to 90 untill it’s done drying. Abs and other prints so good with this. It’s the only thing I can find that will really hold down well but release when cool. And I’ve tried a lot of sprays. I dare you to test. Say good bye to glue sticks..
Hey! Nice Job! Have you fixed the sticky base problem? what brown butcher paper, or a light coat of vegitabe oil? Just got a AnyCubic Photon Mono X, so much to learn! Thanks again!
About the glass bed adhesion... did you try lowering the recommended bed temperature for the material? I have found with other bed surfaces that the amount of bed adhesion could be controlled by raising or lowering bed temp.
My experience with anycubic machines are they are either really damn good out of the box. Like insanely good... Or you get a dud and wires are disconnected, the bed is warped (actually that's on all machines from China not just anycubic), the motors are noises the belts aren't tensioned well, the ad card slot is faulty. It's weird how how good anycubic QC at times and how terrible they can be at others.
Yer I purchased 2 mega S's they were fantastic so I brought the Chiron and wow what a mess, motor held in by 1 screw, wires lose and one motor trying to drive the heavy bed ment poor quality prints!! I brought 2 mono x's for my UA-cam channel one broke down after 4 months and the second broke after just 7 weeks. Anycubic customer service was absolutely terrible after 12 weeks with no fix I asked elegoo because I picked up a saturn in sales they fixed them in 3hs!! 🙄🙈
That's a small problem called "Lack of QA." That used to be a long meme in the guitar industry with Gibson, where subpar instruments were said to be done on Friday night.
Flexible build plates should really be standard by now. The print bed of the Vyper is perfect but maybe it is not manifactured in larger sizes? For my Anycubic Mega X i bought a magnetic, removable, flexible bed and it is way simpler now to get the prints off the plate (but the removable layer is starting to fall apart after about 500 prints so be careful with it)
Hello Joel! I saw your review about the Kobra Max. So, after 2 month and i think, many print. What do you think ? Is this printer still a good choice for printing large parts?
I have a question as im fairly new to this. I own the cr-10s and i use cura which had a printer profile listed, but since the max is so new it doesnt have one. Can i just use the vyper profile and change the bed dimensions?
Is there not an opton to adjust the z axis offset. Its auto oeveling, and so if its adhering too much it might just need backing off 0.01mm or so to make it easier to remove.
Getting some insane bed adhesion with pla/+, i reckon maybe z offset? The auto bed leveling seems to do really good, it might just be a couple points of a millimeter too close. I’ve tried dropping the bed temp down to 50 which arguably was worse because the owl snapped in half and i sent her perch flying through the stratosphere with her feet attached (after hours of cooling). Although, that was with pla+, i don’t see how that would be much of a difference but worthy of including i guess. Any other ideas? The printer is sick though, i giggled like a child when i tried the auto filament loading and unloading. Its the little things 😅 i really can’t give much of a review with only 2 owls printed (part of one currently in orbit), but just going off quality and ease of use out of the box, its been a dream. If z offset is my only real concern with bed leveling, I’ll take that over a piece of paper and knobs any day because i SUCKED at bed leveling manually. My one gripe was the sd card that came with it, i thought like in the video maybe i had it in the wrong spot or something. Negative, the sd card wouldn’t read in the printer at all, but reads on the computer? I ended up grabbing the one from my ender 3 and it loaded right up. I tried different formats and reformatting, to no avail, the sd that came with it just didn’t read in the printer. The printer is also not inherently recognized in cura (that I’ve been able to find at least), the instructions come with a guide to set it up, but from a new persons perspective i can understand it’s not ideal.
i would wonder if the nozzle doing the adjusting by touching the plate, would hurt something like garolite or some other meltable thing. I never tried to melt garolite, but i'm pretty sure it bends.
I got my Kobra max for a good price. two con about this printer : the quality insurance is very low but manageable and the difficulty to change the firmware. the pro are numerous: the bed is sticking so well that you don't need it to print, the nozzle is compatible with volcano hot end, the extruder is dual gear, dual z are synchronized with a belt, etc ...
Can one change the extruder orientation on this printer, so the filament can be fed from a shelve above or in the back ? I find placing the filament on the side very inconvenient.
I think Sean is having a little too much fun with the editing, but I LUV IT! At least you can't singe your hair with a vacuum. Or can you? I had the exact same bed issue that you had, where the surface pealed off of my Ender 5 Plus, along with some of the glass. ABS stuck a little too well to it. It seems like the surface micro-fractures over time, to a point where they eventually become large enough cause the surface to fail. Once the first piece chipped off, I started seeing gouges across the entire surface.
Hi ... i was wondering if you had any cura/prusa slicer profiles that are better than the stock one they give with the machine? i am having issues with Z moving and dragging on the print without moving up first. also, there is no nozzle prime like the prusa slicer does in cura. so if you are willing to share a profile, it would be great. thx for all the videos and information you provide to us. we really appreciate it.
Heya, I was wondering if you could do a bit more in depth video on how the "nozzle touch bed leveling" and if it could be implemented on say a anycubic Mega style printer?
It is a vyperized Chiron. I sell 3D printers so I see all the faults and the only time I ever saw a piece of glass pulled off the bed was on the Anycubic 4Max Pro. Problem with this is the Chiron is very reliable and cheap. Hard to justify the massive price jump over that one.
Gotta idea… Great non biased review btw. The world needs them all to be like this. Thanks. So… I’m curious. Do you think a piece of RAM board (heavy duty super thin cardboard) would work? If not then maybe even a brass plate Or even aluminum foil wrapped around the plate and when done peel it away. Grabbin at straws. I’ve been window shopping these printers looking for tool and machinery part print capabilities. This model looks best so far(from my POV) any tips let me know. Thanks again
The best thing i did was get a sheet of stainless steel and cut it to the bed shape of my anycubic vyper at a 1mm thickness, its so good! the sheet flexes so printer come off with so much ease when cooled and everything sticks to it.
easy removing: just use cfk plates in the right size, clamp them down with these metal-paper-clamps. grind it a little bit with 300 grit and use 3dlac for adhesion. bed temperature while printing about 80°C. when cooling off, the print will just fall off. works with most materials. PP for example doesnt work.
I've been looking at geting this one or the Chiron. Is there a chance that you will do a review comparing the Anycubic Chiron and the Kobra Max? And what is a good material to use for them?
Weird about the bed. I thought I saw at least one other review that had a removable layer like the Vyper but with 4 clips to hold it on instead of the magnets. Might have been the one by Ben Heck.
Awsome video! My Ender 3 recently failed and I'm looking for a new printer. Since I'm now certain I want to really get into the hobby, I'm willing to spend more money. Currently, I'm not sure wether to get the Kobra or Kobra Max. I've indeed wished for a bigger printing volume on my Ender 3, since I sometines print stuff like seld designed rovers and cars I then automate. I'm still not excatly sure, wether it's worth the bunch of extra money (I'm still in school so money is a little tight), especially without a flexible build plate. What would you advise?
How much space do I need for this model to fit on my work table? I have a max of 36 inches depth (91.5 cm). Would this be enough? The Kobra Max already has 72cm depth.
I'm looking to get into 3d printing for the first time, so I don't know anything about this subject. But I'm a good cook and often use parchment paper to cook things on. (Life hack - No washing dishes). That's rated to about 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Would it be possible to use a sheet of parchment paper to save your base?
In an email I was told the price on Amazon would be $599. I just checked, and Anycubic has it listed on Amazon for $739. I really hope this is an accident and I wasn't given incorrect information.
Havent seen this model before, could you link the stls in the description?
On Anycubic's own website it is $639 so, yes, it looks like it's $100 more than you were told.
I don't know how they be able to sell it at any of those prices should be $1200 I think.🤭
@@user-eu2pb9rr4l STLs linked in the description now.
It's up to $639 on their site.
Edit* That was for DE. US is $569
Thank you, Joel, for printing my engine! Amazing video, amazing size! Thank you!
I AM SO HAPPY YOU SAW IT!!!
All your engines are cool. Thanks!
that’s what she said
I have a anycubic Chiron with the same bed and you have to let the bed cool. Even under the print. People will touch the bed and think it's cool but under the print not so much. I come back a couple hours after the print finishes and even large prints will pop off with little effort.
You can also reduce your bottom layer flow rate a bit. Will help if your prints are sticking to much on any printer.
Just a tip I've learned that I want to share to everyone watching. When removing tpu from glass, do it while the glass is still hot. It's a lot easier to peel off that way. Otherwise once it cools down it holds to glass like glue! I like to catch it right at the end of the print and peel it off. I've tried reheating the glass after it has cooled down and that didn't seem to help much either. Happy printing.
Tpu you just roll the model up. Super ez.
Whenever I print TPU I do the same AND squirt a little bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol. It comes off so easily with just a tiny bit of alcohol
This applies to all printing surfaces.
TPU should be printet without a heated bed. I reactivated my Flashforge Finder which has no heated bed and it prints perfectly (and it's my only direct extruder ;))
Yeah I found that just reheating the bed helps to release the print when you're ready to take it off the bed.
Thanks for a detailed review/overview. I really appreciate the delivery and will consider this for my next printer
I flipped the plate over to the glass and had no problems with removing my prints once it cooled down. Also, I replaced the plastic bearing wheels with metal ones and no squeaking. Still going strong with no other issues . . . for now! 🍻 💪🏾
hey man just wondering, can you give an update if u still use it and if theres a yes or a no then tell me why? im thinking about getting one myself.. or is it outdated?
G-10 works great for me on my sovol SV03 as a build plate! As long as the z-offset is about right, it grips everything!
I just stumbled upon this looking for Cura settings and you hit the nail on the head. I'm still playing with Cura just to see what works best, but out of the gate this thing was printing SO much better than my CR10 ever did.
My Cura settings were Vyper, but with correct bed dimensions. CRAZY how good it prints straight away right?
I keep searching for the best kobra max settings, my prints just string CONSTANTLY and after playing with temp, retraction and speed for days I just can't get the finish right. Where do you find these settings? :(
Your cuts and videos are stupendous! My smile was a permanent fixture from beginning to end. To me, failures due to a print bed, are a NON-ISSUE. "Im not buying this house... because I dont like the bedroom paint color."
Thank you. We will let Tucker know. He cut this one!
I have had the Chiron for years and have been satisfied with it. I have had things stick to the bed too hard, but I always use washable water gluestick now, and things come off quickly. It is built cheaply, though, and I have had to replace many parts. Luckily any cubic always sent them to me for free based on warranty. I did add a direct drive to mine instead of Bowden now, I had issues with the filament extruder just chewing up filament before, and I use it with a palette as well. The majority of the time, everything prints well for me. I upgraded all the parts and printed high-temp with it. When it is time for an upgrade, I will go with the max. as far as price is concerned, I don't see too many other printers that are competitive with it based on size and capabilities.
Any time I get one of the beds with the silicon-carbide surface, I flip it over and print on the naked glass. While carborundum does a great job of holding onto models with a small footprint, the risk to my nozzle, combined with the weird behaviour on some filaments (black silk - might as well have been welded to the bed), makes it not worth it on anything but finicky prints in basic PLA.
Another great video, Joel! Thanks for posting!
Joel, I enjoyed your review as always. I've been using flexible build plates on all my machines for a couple of years now, and I'll never go back to using tape or glue or whatever. Really can't see why you would ever want to mess with any of those methods when the flex plates are so easy to install (if the machine doesn't come with one) and so convenient to use.
Which one do you use?
But did you find one which is 400x400? I can‘t finde one that size.
@@McBearyOne - it's a year or two ago now, but we bought a small sheet of stainless steel on eBay, then trimmed it to fit our i3 - it even has an insulated handle! I'd certainly give that a try, it was not costly.
I still like my Prusa mini
G'day Joel. Great video mate. Kudos for providing such constructive feedback and an honest review. Loved the big model aeroplane motor you built. Shame it didn't run, as I would've loved to see it go. Cheers from downunder. Aaron.
I got the at squeak on a few of my printers as well, it was actually the cooling fan rubbing on the cowl of the print head, the blades where too loose on the fan and they wobbled enough to make that noise, also, in the case of my CR6 SE to rub a groove in the cowling housing. A fan swap fixed the issue, but it is a bummer that it happens form the factory like that.
Very interesting setup for the Y. I dont mind how they did that oddly, figured I would. Distributing the load over 2 rails with lots of wheels is nice, but may lead to issues with those bearings with HEAVY prints. Any luck oiling the bearings? It sounded to me that it might have been in the extruder!
I've fell in love with using hair spray as my water soluble interface adhesion layer.
I ALWAYS use hairspray on my glass beds, not for adhesion, but as a release agent. I started doing that right after I tore a chunk of glass out of my glass bed when printing with PETG.
Thank God I ordered the extra satin build plate. I had a feeling it was available for a reason. My first printer was the Photon D2. I loved it so much 3 days later I ordered the Kobra Max bundle with a extra build plate I paid like $650 for the bundle with extra filament and build plate
I have a anycubic chiron and it's an awesome machine for the most part I have used it a lot more than my ender 3. All the issues you're facing with the kobra I've had with the chiron which is disappointing given there is a few years between them you'd think they would have figured that out already. Blue masking tape has been my go to for my prints on the glass to help it release. I wish they released the nozzle bed levelling for aftermarket.
I have the Chiron as well, and after watching "This Korba Max looks suspiciously like an upgraded Chiron." 🤔
Great review. I just got mine today. Putting it together now.
Good video. You are straight forward and 2 the point without the ridiculous intro that everyone seems to have. Don't change.
Anycubic makes some great products.
Well priced and so easy to assemble and get printing.
i would like the machine to have a sheet of build tack on it. my original m3 mega came with it before they went to the ultra base. i love it. easy to remove items. but nice to see what it can do. the prints look awesome.
Great video, Joel!! It was good seeing you in Jerry's live show today. You should have joined in with us on the stream! 😊 👍
I am so incredibly impressed with this printer. After years on a wanhao where I spent more time working on it than I did actually printing, it's nice to just put it together, and let it do what it's made to do. Print.
It is like an upgraded Chiron: all the new features and most of the upgrades. Things I did not see in the review: is there a filament run out sensor? Does the filament sensor detect stopped/jammed filament? Is the bed heating evenly? Does it resume properly after a power fail? Does the firmware allow notifications back to Octoprint when the filament runs out? Does the bed have amosfet so I can keep it powered after power loss?
The other oddity with the name is the non-max Kobra is a direct drive (and has the flex plate) which makes the Max even more like a Vyper.
You would think printers would get better in the future, but it seems like anycubic is just hashing out the same thing
The Kobra is Anycubics answer to the Ender 3 S1 Sprite.
good to see they redesigned the belt tensioners, they look to be compatible with Vyper and I might upgrade those because belt tensioners on Vyper are horrible
When printing TPU on smooth beds I always use glue stick. On textured surface (like on Prusas) TPU peels off easily and no glue is needed.
I have got the latest Cobra Max,-still in the box- About the plate...I would use a heat gun in the meantime to help release the print from those areas because I know it could even take a chunk of your plate I drastic enough. Remember it is designed to hold large prints.
Thank you for your great reviews, Joel!!
Thanks for watching!
This looks very similar to my CR6 Max. Great review!
Where’s fan mail Friday !! Lol great review as always good sir
Just placed an order for this - it’ll be my first 3d printer. I’m excited and nervous!
Looks like its an upgraded Chiron. Ive been loving mine. Might have to check this out when/if I ever get some more room.
Really great review! Thank you for this!
I just got my first 3d-printer which is the the Anycubic Mega X, printed quite a bit with a it. No squeaky bearings (yet).
One of the first things I got for my CR6 max was the flex plate, so much better than the glass. Which this looks like a very close 2nd cousin of the cr6 max.
Have you run into any issues with it stopping mid print?
@@landfallstudio3482 I had blockage issues on anything longer than 2 days until I upgraded the hotend cooling fan
The problem with the tolerances not working when scaling... Thats another power of designing a model parametrically.
If you want to scale it afterwards you can do it with changing one number. If you use the parameters correctly.
Always start with a "scale" parameter, set to 1.
Include that scale parameter with ever measurement that is an actual dimension. so like "body_height_a*scale"
But dont include it in the tolerances.
You should even use parameters for every tolerance so you can tweak those in the entire model afterwards with the change of one number.
So say the tolerances need to be 0.1mm when you print with a 0.4mm nozel, but you switch to a 0.8 to print larger and it needs to be a larger tolerance, no problem. Change one number.
Hey it had been a while since the last big print video. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for this good and real review!
For those printing TPU and having trouble removing it from Flexible Beds.remove the be from the machine and go to the sink and drench that print in isopropyl alcohol and carefully remove the part with or without the help of a spatula
Thanks great video I have coming in two weeks. A question? When doing your first leveling did you lower your bed completely down before auto leveling?
I feel always so excited when there is new 3D printer with a large print volume in the market. I need an after some months review for Kobra Max.
Is there some problem or needed repairment in this following months?
Thanks for this video and your review
Covering the plate with scotch could be an option for models not to stick on?
I saw in some other videos but I wanted to ask you. Thanks
It sounds like anycubic needs to put a thicker (relatively flat) aluminum bed plate on it and a removable build plate with it. I think that would be nice since the thin aluminum bed plates warp alot
The printer look good and all but what Stephan did with the stl is way more intriguing to me lool.
He probably remodeled it to adjust the clearance that well for sure, working with an stl file is such a pain
First of all, great video, love the humor lol. Question I have is this printer big enough to handle 1/32 scale models of sections for assembling buildings, I tried finding info on what size of 3D printer needed for 1/32 scale with no luck, will this one work or one of the cheaper costing Kobra's, thanks for any help...
Great review ! That machine is soo huge :D
Stefan to the rescue 😀.
Seems Like a decent Machines, but truht be told a flexible removable build Plate is a must nowadays.
Use hairspray for RELEASE of sticky filaments. A little alcohol on the bed and the hairspray dissolves leaving your part nice and free!
Have you considered G10/FR4 for the build surface? I switched from Creality's glass bed to the 1/16" G10/FR4 and it's amazing, the prints stick great during printing and slide right off when it cools and it's flexible so you can flex it to pop prints off as well and you don't need to heat bed with TPU.
Do you just buy a sheet and cut it to size?
Same as the ciron. And gluestick works great.
you are the 2nd you tuber to talk about the bed braking 😮
do you know if preheating the bed made any difference 🤔
great review thanks for the video 😊
A ton of people in the Vyper Facebook group begged them to make it so you can adjust the Z-Offset in 0.01 increments... And they just don't listen. Hope you as a larger creator will be able to convince them!
Joel…. I use bumble and bumble oil free finishing spray on my build surfaces. I first spray the area lightly, then bake to 90 untill it’s done drying. Abs and other prints so good with this. It’s the only thing I can find that will really hold down well but release when cool. And I’ve tried a lot of sprays. I dare you to test. Say good bye to glue sticks..
I was having the bed adhesion issue on the mega s with tpu, what works for me is blue painters tape. Yes it’s a pain but it definitely helps
Hey! Nice Job!
Have you fixed the sticky base problem?
what brown butcher paper, or a light coat of vegitabe oil?
Just got a AnyCubic Photon Mono X, so much to learn!
Thanks again!
I just got a Vyper, I just don’t like the side load filament spool I don’t have the room. But so easy to put together.
I think they should’ve used a mesh build plate like the i3 mega X It holds on really well and when it cools down the Print just pops off
I really hope they fixed the heat bead wiring. In the Chiron they used tinned and undersized wiring and it was a major fire hazard.
About the glass bed adhesion... did you try lowering the recommended bed temperature for the material? I have found with other bed surfaces that the amount of bed adhesion could be controlled by raising or lowering bed temp.
Very interested in this
Were the magnets reversed on the tool drawer?
IE - auto-eject mode?
That is a creality thing.
My experience with anycubic machines are they are either really damn good out of the box. Like insanely good... Or you get a dud and wires are disconnected, the bed is warped (actually that's on all machines from China not just anycubic), the motors are noises the belts aren't tensioned well, the ad card slot is faulty. It's weird how how good anycubic QC at times and how terrible they can be at others.
Agreed. My vyper prints so beautifully. Glad I got lucky. And it was a $150 Amazon returned printer!
Yer I purchased 2 mega S's they were fantastic so I brought the Chiron and wow what a mess, motor held in by 1 screw, wires lose and one motor trying to drive the heavy bed ment poor quality prints!!
I brought 2 mono x's for my UA-cam channel one broke down after 4 months and the second broke after just 7 weeks. Anycubic customer service was absolutely terrible after 12 weeks with no fix I asked elegoo because I picked up a saturn in sales they fixed them in 3hs!! 🙄🙈
That's a small problem called "Lack of QA." That used to be a long meme in the guitar industry with Gibson, where subpar instruments were said to be done on Friday night.
Flexible build plates should really be standard by now. The print bed of the Vyper is perfect but maybe it is not manifactured in larger sizes? For my Anycubic Mega X i bought a magnetic, removable, flexible bed and it is way simpler now to get the prints off the plate (but the removable layer is starting to fall apart after about 500 prints so be careful with it)
Hello Joel! I saw your review about the Kobra Max. So, after 2 month and i think, many print. What do you think ? Is this printer still a good choice for printing large parts?
I have a question as im fairly new to this. I own the cr-10s and i use cura which had a printer profile listed, but since the max is so new it doesnt have one. Can i just use the vyper profile and change the bed dimensions?
im curious if those squeaky roller wheel bearings offer an advantage over the rods like in Prusa MK3S+
Is there not an opton to adjust the z axis offset. Its auto oeveling, and so if its adhering too much it might just need backing off 0.01mm or so to make it easier to remove.
How would you go about getting a flexible bed instead of a glass bed?
Getting some insane bed adhesion with pla/+, i reckon maybe z offset? The auto bed leveling seems to do really good, it might just be a couple points of a millimeter too close. I’ve tried dropping the bed temp down to 50 which arguably was worse because the owl snapped in half and i sent her perch flying through the stratosphere with her feet attached (after hours of cooling). Although, that was with pla+, i don’t see how that would be much of a difference but worthy of including i guess. Any other ideas?
The printer is sick though, i giggled like a child when i tried the auto filament loading and unloading. Its the little things 😅 i really can’t give much of a review with only 2 owls printed (part of one currently in orbit), but just going off quality and ease of use out of the box, its been a dream. If z offset is my only real concern with bed leveling, I’ll take that over a piece of paper and knobs any day because i SUCKED at bed leveling manually. My one gripe was the sd card that came with it, i thought like in the video maybe i had it in the wrong spot or something. Negative, the sd card wouldn’t read in the printer at all, but reads on the computer? I ended up grabbing the one from my ender 3 and it loaded right up. I tried different formats and reformatting, to no avail, the sd that came with it just didn’t read in the printer. The printer is also not inherently recognized in cura (that I’ve been able to find at least), the instructions come with a guide to set it up, but from a new persons perspective i can understand it’s not ideal.
i would wonder if the nozzle doing the adjusting by touching the plate, would hurt something like garolite or some other meltable thing. I never tried to melt garolite, but i'm pretty sure it bends.
I got my Kobra max for a good price. two con about this printer : the quality insurance is very low but manageable and the difficulty to change the firmware. the pro are numerous: the bed is sticking so well that you don't need it to print, the nozzle is compatible with volcano hot end, the extruder is dual gear, dual z are synchronized with a belt, etc ...
Would this or the Sidewinder X2 be the better choice for out of the box?
Hi Joel. I was wondering what slicer you are using for the Anycubic Kobra Max.
Would you recommend this as a upgrade or a newer version for the ANYCUBIC chiron ?
Can one change the extruder orientation on this printer, so the filament can be fed from a shelve above or in the back ? I find placing the filament on the side very inconvenient.
I think Sean is having a little too much fun with the editing, but I LUV IT! At least you can't singe your hair with a vacuum. Or can you?
I had the exact same bed issue that you had, where the surface pealed off of my Ender 5 Plus, along with some of the glass. ABS stuck a little too well to it. It seems like the surface micro-fractures over time, to a point where they eventually become large enough cause the surface to fail. Once the first piece chipped off, I started seeing gouges across the entire surface.
Tucker had the edit on this one! We will let him know!
Hi ... i was wondering if you had any cura/prusa slicer profiles that are better than the stock one they give with the machine? i am having issues with Z moving and dragging on the print without moving up first. also, there is no nozzle prime like the prusa slicer does in cura. so if you are willing to share a profile, it would be great. thx for all the videos and information you provide to us. we really appreciate it.
Heya, I was wondering if you could do a bit more in depth video on how the "nozzle touch bed leveling" and if it could be implemented on say a anycubic Mega style printer?
It is a vyperized Chiron. I sell 3D printers so I see all the faults and the only time I ever saw a piece of glass pulled off the bed was on the Anycubic 4Max Pro. Problem with this is the Chiron is very reliable and cheap. Hard to justify the massive price jump over that one.
Joel, I love that Endor-gonia tshirt! Any chance you’d share where you got it or where we can pick one up?
Try incrementing the Z offset so parts will release easily from the bed
Gotta idea…
Great non biased review btw. The world needs them all to be like this. Thanks.
So… I’m curious. Do you think a piece of RAM board (heavy duty super thin cardboard) would work?
If not then maybe even a brass plate
Or even aluminum foil wrapped around the plate and when done peel it away.
Grabbin at straws.
I’ve been window shopping these printers looking for tool and machinery part print capabilities.
This model looks best so far(from my POV) any tips let me know.
Thanks again
I would absolutely buy this, if it was direct drive. I hate dealing with boden tubes
Same. Bowden also limits your options when it comes to flexible filaments.
Have you seen the Mingda Magician Pro? 400x400x400 direct drive.
The best thing i did was get a sheet of stainless steel and cut it to the bed shape of my anycubic vyper at a 1mm thickness, its so good! the sheet flexes so printer come off with so much ease when cooled and everything sticks to it.
Do you have Cura settings? What did you use to slice?
easy removing:
just use cfk plates in the right size, clamp them down with these metal-paper-clamps. grind it a little bit with 300 grit and use 3dlac for adhesion. bed temperature while printing about 80°C. when cooling off, the print will just fall off.
works with most materials.
PP for example doesnt work.
Sounds like a good starter, large format printer.
Poor
Sir Layersalot struck down with a single blow. What a dangerous weapon!
I am finally getting one of these!
My Atom 2.0 delta 3D printed did the same auto bed leveling. But all my prints were not able to stick on the edges. They would always lift slightly.
I've been looking at geting this one or the Chiron. Is there a chance that you will do a review comparing the Anycubic Chiron and the Kobra Max? And what is a good material to use for them?
Get this one. I see a lot of people having problems with the wiring harnesses on the Chiron. Upgrade to a textured pei sheet.
I'm debating buying one of these, any advice on where to get a flexible build plate upgrade?
Weird about the bed. I thought I saw at least one other review that had a removable layer like the Vyper but with 4 clips to hold it on instead of the magnets. Might have been the one by Ben Heck.
I have an Ender5 PRO and right out of the box it has squeaky bearings. It appears to be common amongst printers now.
Awsome video!
My Ender 3 recently failed and I'm looking for a new printer.
Since I'm now certain I want to really get into the hobby, I'm willing to spend more money.
Currently, I'm not sure wether to get the Kobra or Kobra Max.
I've indeed wished for a bigger printing volume on my Ender 3, since I sometines print stuff like seld designed rovers and cars I then automate.
I'm still not excatly sure, wether it's worth the bunch of extra money (I'm still in school so money is a little tight), especially without a flexible build plate.
What would you advise?
Maybe you should just get the Ender Extender 400 or 500mm
How dose it compare with the cr-10 max , what would be a better buy?
How much space do I need for this model to fit on my work table? I have a max of 36 inches depth (91.5 cm). Would this be enough? The Kobra Max already has 72cm depth.
I'm looking to get into 3d printing for the first time, so I don't know anything about this subject.
But I'm a good cook and often use parchment paper to cook things on. (Life hack - No washing dishes). That's rated to about 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Would it be possible to use a sheet of parchment paper to save your base?
the squeak is probably not the bearings but actually the belts when changing directions.