I remember in the 1980s when vehicles were becoming more and more computer dependent and carburetors were being replaced by electronic fuel injection, there was a repair shop in my area that was known to be the first independent shop that had an electronic diagnostic machine. Vehicles would line up outside of the shop by the dozen at times to await their turn to get whatever the issue was diagnosed. Many of these vehicles were Lincoln Town Cars or Mercury Grand Marquis owned by for-hire vehicle operators for whom time was of the essence. The common refrain was that they didn't necessarily care about the cost of the diagnoses; all they wanted was for their vehicles to be fixed right the first time. By coincidence, there was a Ford dealership within walking distance of this repair shop; if the replacement part(s) were in stock, they were purchased and installed within a relatively short period of time. Inevitably, it was less costly, both in money and time, to get the repairs done right the first time.
shop costs are so high these days it's difficult to take the time to properly diagnose and repair. Most shops just don't have the space to have a car sit around until a busy tech can get back to it.
@snake_eyes_garage So, in other words, one is better off leasing a vehicle or trading it in when the warranty expires? That way, there won't be any issues with independent shops not having the time to properly diagnose and repair one's vehicle properly. Not that dealerships are necessarily any better in many cases, but at least one won't be stuck with improper diagnoses and inflated repair bills if the vehicle is under warranty.
I like that your shop found other issues with the car, like the battery not charging and the connector being bad. Some places just do A, B, and C because there are other cars waiting. But you're not trying to pad the bill, you want the customer to take the car on the road with confidence. In the process, you fixed a problem the customer didn't know they had. Since this car is obviously a treasure to the customer, paying a bit more is well worth it.
He is a ferrari specialist, these sort of mechanics do not grow on trees. Wizard got a great crew surrounding him, if the pay was shit i do not think these guys would be working there.And a good working atmosphere goes a long way! No pay can compensate for those kind of benefits.
I realize this isn't a concours show car, but sometimes the old voltage regulator cover will fit onto the base of the new voltage regulator, giving it new insides while preserving the old outside look. :>)
I am an expert at nothing........but 1966 Mustang fastback!!! I bought my Mustang in FEB 1975 and was my daily driver for many years. I did a rolling rebuild early on as needed. In 2016 we started a complete restore. Finished in time for the 2019 Mustang 55th anniversary show at Charlotte Motor speedway. I have touched every square inch of this car. If this is a good regular customer I'd suggest they save up their pennies and buy a firewall forward wire harness. A harness is not costly and will solve and prevent many issues. There seems to be some funky things going on under the hood. thx
I'm a Mustang dork and I'm currently doing a concours resto on a '66 fastback. Not everything has to be factory perfect for everyone, and I definitely appreciate the freedom of having a driver car that looks good on the outside, but that whole setup gives me the heebie-jeebies, especially the wiring situation! Kudos for finding that small-gauge wiring problem though!
My favorite 289 Ford, was the 64 Falcon Sprint. A friend had one and it caught out more stoplight racers than any other car I've see from the era. The funiest was the look on a guy's face, who just had the doors blown off his brand new 68 Charger, by this unassuming little Falcon.
My dad's first car was a '63 falcon sprint with a 260 V8 and 3 speed. He said about the same thing as you about that car. He said it would only do about 120 or so, but it sure got there quick.
Hell yeah, my family was big into Falcons, Ranchero, convertibles, wagons, sprints, and hard top 64 and 65s. I love those little cars. My first was a 1965 Falcon stationwagon with about 300k miles on it when I got it. It taught me the basics of maintenance and the value of keeping them running.
Very nice, I grew up with these cars as well. I'm happy when I still see them on the road. Glad there's always someone out there to help keep them going.
Mr Wizard, I wish there is more business men like you around that are not always trying to see how much they can make of a client. Congratulations an God bless you and your family.
Rewiring the starting circuit was the best part of this repair. That the electrical current trying to get to the solenoid from the key switch was "causing the wire to get hot" was a recipe for a car fire. The gauge of a wire needs to be sized to the power requirements of the circuit. The high current demands of the starting solenoid are now handled by the relay that you added along with the additional heavy gauge wire. The key switch now has become the engage signal for the starter and no longer expected to supply the starting solenoid with the high current it requires. This customer doesn't know how lucky they are as you potentially saved them from burning down their car. Kudos to your team for engineering this repair correctly.
Well, the car's been rewired and it isn't a tock starter and solenoid because the stock solenoid is located on the right fender, not on the starter. The solenoid on the original handled the high voltage, the ignition wire was only about 1amp originally. 18 or 20 ga would have been fine. Old mustangs were notoriously easy to hot wire. JUst run a wire from the + on the battery to the + on the coil, jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and off you went
@@feoxorus I had a 1970 satellite sebring that was like that. I discovered it one day when I pulled the key out and forgot to turn it to the left...hey wait...what? put the key in, turned it off, then put the key like 1/4 the way in, started it lol OH kay, better not let my buddies know this at school or my car will end up in the burger joint parking lot 3 blocks away hahaha
@@muskokamike127 Righto. I have worked on and own plenty of these kind of fords and the factory solenoid is easy to activate, never heard of any problem operating them. So I was skeptical of this. But I saw no regular solenoid. Like you say someone modified this and it apparently needed more juice to work. Pretty lame people that tried to fix this before and couldn't figure it out. It would have been pretty easy to troubleshoot. I would have done some hotwiring just to see if the solenoid would actuate. Since it then would I would know somehow the juice (and in this case just not enough) was not getting to it. Might have even realized some non factory solenoid may need more juice. Always bad when people that don't really understand electrical start doing parts replacing and cause something like this.
That vapor lock issue happened to my family’s old 86 suburban, we lived in the desert and when it was mid summer you’d be driving down the highway and it would pulsate the whole vehicle because it wasn’t getting ample fuel. I miss those efficient 9 miles a gallon vehicles. Not as good as today but had way more personality
The fact that the mechanical pump has to SUCK the fuel all the way forward with a slight negative pressure actually reduces the temperature needed to vapourise the fuel in the line. Since you were driving through the desert the radiant heat off the tarmac /road surface would mean the fuel was part vapour by the time it reached the pump... and by the time the metal fuel line from the pump then ran around the front of the engine and up to the carb...meant mostly vapour entered the carb. The XJ6 and XJ12 Jaguars had a cooling circuit off the a/c lines to condense the fuel and make sure liquid fuel got to the carb...
When I did my 67 before I had the paint done I did a complete new wiring harness from nose to tail and HEI Distributor took out the old DC alt and put in a one wire 100 amp cleaned out all that wasn't needed anymore no coil ,voltage regulator life made simple always enjoy your videos Sir
One small item to add - the minute you mentioned voltage regulators - I had similar problems with a '72 Celica years ago. The alternator was good, but the voltage regulators would fail with surprising regularity. Eventually we tracked it down to a series of grounding faults in the engine compartment wiring. Just old wires that started to crack with age. Some quality time with the Haynes manual, and a spool of fresh wire, and we were able to stabilize the problem. The clue came while driving on the freeway one day - the ammeter in the dash would go from charging to discharging going over bumps ... so that's a thing too.
Vapor lock is a MF”er !! Had a 70 challenger RT, most pain in the ass car I ve ever owned. I put a 1” spacer under the carburetor to help solve that issue .
Great job with the video as a mustang owner I will use some of your knowledge to help me to keep both my 65 and 89 running, you should always recommend to people to keep a fire extinguisher on board,when I was a firefighter every car fire I went to was totaled!
This reminds me of a motel we stayed at in Wyoming in the 70s. The room had a window air conditioner plugged into a standard 16 gauge extension cord. The plug was melting in the wall socket. Lucky the place didn't burn down (or maybe it did!).
worked for a mold shop that had 200ft of 16ga. cord going 30ft to two pop machines, I told the boss the cords were real hot, he didn't say much. Came in after the week-end and the cord outlets were fried.
I troubleshoot elevator systems, and Kenda really appreciate the diagnostics that you guys did to fix those problems once and for all. Very satisfying, keep up the good work thank you guys.
I own an 87 Buick Turbo T, the sister to the Grand National.......car is immaculate......one problem.........I have a significant battery drain when the car is parked.........it's driving me Crazy!
Aint that a beauty! My father had a 66 mustang growing up. He loved it! Was a purple-blue with a metallic flake. I hope to one day get him an old school mustang as a gift. Still had the 289 Decal in the garage he grew up in so I put it on my truck.
Wow! That's awesome how far it has gone! Reliability and comfort is huge! Always believe that if you take care of your car it will take care of you. I don't mind spending money to keep things up. Having it run good and look good. That's quite a lot of work done. Between parts and labour 2 grand isn't that bad. Keep up the good work guys! Quite enjoy your videos!
I got my mom’s 68 mustang, that had set inside for 33 years. I put in a new mech fuel pump, fuel lines and sending unit, new voltage regulator, new oil pressure sending unit, cleaned the points, and rebuilt the carb. Starts right up and drives great after that. It sat because it was a rebuilt 289 with a new holley carb, and carb tuning wasn’t dad’s forte.
Modern starter upgrade. I have thought about doing that myself on my 67. Now I know to retain the original style relay and feed the power that way. Simply by connecting the solinoid on the starter to the power feed.
Mr. Wizard, I had owned a classic with that burn your down rig fuel filter. Been recently viewing your videos. My kind of mechanic . Hopefully you place out that glass filter, my old Chevelle leaked one time & almost burnt her down
That's wild about the vapor lock! I owned a 1967 Falcon Sports Coupe (289) until 1988, a 1967 Mustang Convertible (I-6-200) until 1983, a 1965 Mustang Notchback (I-6-200) until 1996 and sold my 1963 Falcon 144 (I-6) about 4 years ago. Ran into some wierd problems on all of them, but that vapor lock SNAFU is a new one. Great video, as always!-John in Texas
That engine is called a Windsor small block. It came in 221, 260, 289, and 302 varients. The 351W looked the same but had a taller deck height to accommodate the 3.5" stroke.
I have heard that the motors from the Windsor plant went in trucks, and Clevelands generally went in cars. I'm pretty sure that was just something stupid that I heard somewhere. Were there design differences between the Windsor and Cleveland?
Not only do I LOVE that color, but I love the fact that the owner or restorer did it in simple one-stage paint. Modern ultra-shiny paint jobs on vintage cars look horrible IMO- they take away all the charm of a vintage car, because those vintage cars never had that kind of paint. This 'Stang was very tastefully done.
@@michaelannen4168 The best cars are the ones that were used and kept on the road. I don't care if they don't have all the "proper" parts, or aren't like the day they came off the assembly line...just good old cars that weren't fussed over, and thus still retain the aura of their day. Just give me an old 6-cylinder Fairlane that smells like nicotine inside...that's an honest car, 'cause thats's the way it was back in the day, right?
9:00 Re: small wire Some engines used a resistance wire (what I called it) on old style distributors. When upgrading to a newer style, that wire caused issues also.
‘66 Ford Lawn-burner GT fastback. Do burnouts, get sideways, and scare old ladies. The Kragers look awesome. That smell that Mrs. Wizard was trying to describe, is a combination of leather, gasoline, cigarettes, and punani - ‘Merica! I used to have one of these bad boys and it’s definitely a slice of Americana - smells like freedom. Aces! The Mustangs were never the highest quality built, but that’s not what they are for. They’re for going to beach parties and making out at the drive-ins. Tell me I’m wrong. And oh yeah, getting sideways on somebody’s lawn. Great video - I love another success story- keep up the good work. Wizard!
I have a 75 F-250 4X4 that runs and drives great. I've owned it since 2011. However, it had the same vapor locking problem you described. I was just about to install an inline electric fuel pump like in that Mustang. Then a gas station opened up that sold gas with no ethanol. Problem solved. Hallelujah!!!
Fit it anyway...you may travel out of range of being able to buy that good fuel? Plus as the Wizard says...if the mechanical pump breaks down just flip the switch and the electric will push fuel up to the carb and get you home?
@@andysupple4838 Same here. I had a girlfriend in high school that had a summer job at the local Earl Scheib as a taper...I remember thinking at the time if she was skilled/qualified 😉
Good job done here but I have to pick on one thing. Replacing just the battery cable end. Cables that short do not cost much, and you could put a red one on the positive side to help someone more easily identify the positive side. As a fleet mechanic I have jump started many of our employees personal cars to get them home. Many of the cars started by just cleaning up the connection were the old wire goes into this style replacement end. Beautiful Mustang owner go to your auto part store get some new complete cables one positive one negative, the battery ends are different sizes. Also make sure the stud size on the other end are correct. Have the store order the right length if needed, same as what is there, so it looks nice. Or have the Car Wizard look the right cables up and give you the part number. These guys do good work and the ends they put on will most likely last many years, but there is a better way.
NO computer! NO crappy plastic HVAC actuators! NO pulling the dash to change the heater core! NO electronic ANYTHING (except for maybe ignition>>I still like points). Popular model with LOTS of aftermarket support. As long as it doesn't rust or get wrecked, easy to fix almost FOREVER.
The performance of the Mustang - would definitely benefit from Electronic Ignition, with no more Contact Breaker Points to set / adjust. Ignition Timing would remain spot-on.
BINGO and I bet the environmental impact is half that of modern cars. I learned on these vehicles. SO easy to work on . The heater core, made me laugh, you can actually see it when sitting in the passenger seat lol. 2 bolts and 2 hoses, DONE.
That color is called Frost Turquoise. It was a factory Mustang color for 1967, as well as other Ford products. I have an original 67 Mustang in this color
Thank you Car Wizard! I have been having almost exact vapor lock issue with my 66' Corvette! Ive been wondering if it was the newer gas formulations! I just ordered an electric pump to install by the tank. I love your videos and your very Ernest approach to mechanics and life. Keep doing good work it will only show that knowledge and skill is power and you are wielding it for good causes. I send links to people that have issues with cars you have worked on. And have settled some bets about the reliability of certain brands. You hold some serious street cred with car people. I love learning about how to diagnose issues and get my cars running well. I like your systematic approach.Take care and say hi to Mrs Wizard.
Yeah, modern fuel boils at a much lower temperature than old gasoline did. Not a problem with fuel injected cars under 50+psi, but it is with old cars running a few psi.
Loved the video. I’m 68 yrs old and built a lot of classic cars in my life. I know nothing about todays computer run cars. Looks like all the problems were very basic problems. Things that I would have checked right off the bat. Great tip on adding the electric fuel pump. I liked and subbed. Good job.
I love watching the wizards videos. And I understand it's nothing spectacular, But I really wish I could have heard it run. I just really love The sound of old muscle cars
When I first saw this I thought Ms Wizard was getting a new ride. Also, your 18k from a million subscribers, need something special for this momentous event.
Clearly aftermarket - late model "5-Speed" - as Mustang's of the age didn't come with a 5-Speed - limited to a 4 speed :) You and your Team do a GREAT Job!!!!
Interesting diagnosis. Well done Sir. But 500 to 600 bucks to run a larger gauge wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid? For DIY people out there, it's not hard to replace that wire. Buy an ignition switch pigtail, remove the nut on the back of the ignition switch, remove the round connector and cut the wires right at the connector, solder or crimp connect the new pigtail on to the existing wiring except for the starter wire (red/blue stripe) which you'll attach to 10" of 14 gauge stranded wire. Now run that wire to the solenoid along the existing harness.
Thanks to you both, a satisfying video which illustrates why relays are needed, for one thing...wish you would have pulled the relay cover...the cut in coil pack was likely broken, preventing low rpm charging.Induction caused the V & C regulator coils to close/charge.
This would have been a fun one to play the guessing game. I'm not sure that I'd have figured that intermittent start issue out, though I might have guessed it in context and been lucky.
FWIW, my mother had a '61 Falcon in something close to that shade--given that I last saw it some time in the mid '60s and that the lighting is different it might be even the same color. The valve covers and air filter look like part of the "Cobra Kit" that you could buy from Ford dealers for about 80 bucks. There might be other "Cobra Kit" pieces in there--you could get a kit with a 4 barrel and new manifold and a kit with cam, heads, and pistons to take two examples.
Nice car! With the lower individual "MUSTANG" letters below the emblem, the tailpipes coming out of the rear valance panel, and the front-grille fog lights, this looks like a legit GT model. Originally, there was a stripe through the MUSTANG lettering.
Having a shop that fixes it correctly the first time is invaluable. Worth every penny
My shop takes about 20 tries before they fix it, and usually they break something else along the way.
@winterburden then stop going there
I remember in the 1980s when vehicles were becoming more and more computer dependent and carburetors were being replaced by electronic fuel injection, there was a repair shop in my area that was known to be the first independent shop that had an electronic diagnostic machine. Vehicles would line up outside of the shop by the dozen at times to await their turn to get whatever the issue was diagnosed. Many of these vehicles were Lincoln Town Cars or Mercury Grand Marquis owned by for-hire vehicle operators for whom time was of the essence. The common refrain was that they didn't necessarily care about the cost of the diagnoses; all they wanted was for their vehicles to be fixed right the first time. By coincidence, there was a Ford dealership within walking distance of this repair shop; if the replacement part(s) were in stock, they were purchased and installed within a relatively short period of time. Inevitably, it was less costly, both in money and time, to get the repairs done right the first time.
shop costs are so high these days it's difficult to take the time to properly diagnose and repair. Most shops just don't have the space to have a car sit around until a busy tech can get back to it.
@snake_eyes_garage So, in other words, one is better off leasing a vehicle or trading it in when the warranty expires? That way, there won't be any issues with independent shops not having the time to properly diagnose and repair one's vehicle properly. Not that dealerships are necessarily any better in many cases, but at least one won't be stuck with improper diagnoses and inflated repair bills if the vehicle is under warranty.
I like that your shop found other issues with the car, like the battery not charging and the connector being bad. Some places just do A, B, and C because there are other cars waiting. But you're not trying to pad the bill, you want the customer to take the car on the road with confidence. In the process, you fixed a problem the customer didn't know they had. Since this car is obviously a treasure to the customer, paying a bit more is well worth it.
I hope Danielson is compensated accordingly. He's obviously a skilled technician
Tiffany blue.
@@Notfiveo0 yup good call
Not that it’s our business. But I guess if he wasn’t he wouldn’t work there.
He is a ferrari specialist, these sort of mechanics do not grow on trees. Wizard got a great crew surrounding him, if the pay was shit i do not think these guys would be working there.And a good working atmosphere goes a long way! No pay can compensate for those kind of benefits.
I hope so too. It might make up for having to live in Newton, KS lol
I realize this isn't a concours show car, but sometimes the old voltage regulator cover will fit onto the base of the new voltage regulator, giving it new insides while preserving the old outside look. :>)
Should have got a replacement, I am sure they would have it
Replaced the analog regulator with an electronic regulator.
Tell by looking.
THAT WAS an electronic regulator he shook that rattled, with the old style large voltage regulator cover attached to it. It just went bad.
Another great video. Only thing missing was we didn't get to hear that pony run!
Yes, I wanted to hear it run.
Yes, definitely required a TEST DRIVE 🙂
Ya I definitely wanted to hear it run :-(
I wish you would have started the engine. I wanted to hear that sweet little Mustang running.
I am an expert at nothing........but 1966 Mustang fastback!!! I bought my Mustang in FEB 1975 and was my daily driver for many years. I did a rolling rebuild early on as needed. In 2016 we started a complete restore. Finished in time for the 2019 Mustang 55th anniversary show at Charlotte Motor speedway. I have touched every square inch of this car. If this is a good regular customer I'd suggest they save up their pennies and buy a firewall forward wire harness. A harness is not costly and will solve and prevent many issues. There seems to be some funky things going on under the hood. thx
And under that dash.....lol
@@will7its Agree - could definitely do with a 'tidy-up'.
I'm a Mustang dork and I'm currently doing a concours resto on a '66 fastback. Not everything has to be factory perfect for everyone, and I definitely appreciate the freedom of having a driver car that looks good on the outside, but that whole setup gives me the heebie-jeebies, especially the wiring situation! Kudos for finding that small-gauge wiring problem though!
Yeah, I felt that way too. Perhaps it was used in racing at one time or was fixed on by someone with racing tech knowledge?
Its special for sure, its a fastback!
"There's always more". So profound and so true. This sums up working on any vehicle.
That’s excellent diagnosis skills! And a very neat fix for the starting issue!!
My Dad had a 66 Mustang manual 289 when I got my license in 1976. I had a lot of fun driving that car.
Car Wizard, Almost at 1 million subs. How awesome!!!!!
What an AWESOME!, AWESOME COMPLETE FAIRLY PRICED JOB!!! So nice to see an honest mechanic!!!
My favorite 289 Ford, was the 64 Falcon Sprint. A friend had one and it caught out more stoplight racers than any other car I've see from the era. The funiest was the look on a guy's face, who just had the doors blown off his brand new 68 Charger, by this unassuming little Falcon.
My dad's first car was a '63 falcon sprint with a 260 V8 and 3 speed.
He said about the same thing as you about that car.
He said it would only do about 120 or so, but it sure got there quick.
The Mustang was basically a rebodied Falcon. Steering suspension etc was off the Galcon/Comet.
Hell yeah, my family was big into Falcons, Ranchero, convertibles, wagons, sprints, and hard top 64 and 65s. I love those little cars. My first was a 1965 Falcon stationwagon with about 300k miles on it when I got it. It taught me the basics of maintenance and the value of keeping them running.
We kept making the Falcon in Australia until about 2015. Still basically the same deal. A massive engine in a practical sedan.
Great job Omega! Keep those wonderful old daily drivers like that beautiful Mustang rolling safely on the roads
Very nice, I grew up with these cars as well. I'm happy when I still see them on the road. Glad there's always someone out there to help keep them going.
Mr Wizard, I wish there is more business men like you around that are not always trying to see how much they can make of a client. Congratulations an God bless you and your family.
Rewiring the starting circuit was the best part of this repair. That the electrical current trying to get to the solenoid from the key switch was "causing the wire to get hot" was a recipe for a car fire. The gauge of a wire needs to be sized to the power requirements of the circuit. The high current demands of the starting solenoid are now handled by the relay that you added along with the additional heavy gauge wire. The key switch now has become the engage signal for the starter and no longer expected to supply the starting solenoid with the high current it requires. This customer doesn't know how lucky they are as you potentially saved them from burning down their car. Kudos to your team for engineering this repair correctly.
Well, the car's been rewired and it isn't a tock starter and solenoid because the stock solenoid is located on the right fender, not on the starter. The solenoid on the original handled the high voltage, the ignition wire was only about 1amp originally. 18 or 20 ga would have been fine. Old mustangs were notoriously easy to hot wire. JUst run a wire from the + on the battery to the + on the coil, jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and off you went
@@muskokamike127 I never had to run a wire, just turn the switch to "on" (mine was so worn I even tested it with a screwdriver) and jump the solenoid.
@@feoxorus I had a 1970 satellite sebring that was like that. I discovered it one day when I pulled the key out and forgot to turn it to the left...hey wait...what? put the key in, turned it off, then put the key like 1/4 the way in, started it lol
OH kay, better not let my buddies know this at school or my car will end up in the burger joint parking lot 3 blocks away hahaha
@@muskokamike127 Righto. I have worked on and own plenty of these kind of fords and the factory solenoid is easy to activate, never heard of any problem operating them. So I was skeptical of this. But I saw no regular solenoid. Like you say someone modified this and it apparently needed more juice to work. Pretty lame people that tried to fix this before and couldn't figure it out. It would have been pretty easy to troubleshoot. I would have done some hotwiring just to see if the solenoid would actuate. Since it then would I would know somehow the juice (and in this case just not enough) was not getting to it. Might have even realized some non factory solenoid may need more juice. Always bad when people that don't really understand electrical start doing parts replacing and cause something like this.
It's great to see a car like that, looking good, nice and honest without pretension. I'm glad you sorted it out for the owner.
That vapor lock issue happened to my family’s old 86 suburban, we lived in the desert and when it was mid summer you’d be driving down the highway and it would pulsate the whole vehicle because it wasn’t getting ample fuel. I miss those efficient 9 miles a gallon vehicles. Not as good as today but had way more personality
The fact that the mechanical pump has to SUCK the fuel all the way forward with a slight negative pressure actually reduces the temperature needed to vapourise the fuel in the line.
Since you were driving through the desert the radiant heat off the tarmac /road surface would mean the fuel was part vapour by the time it reached the pump...
and by the time the metal fuel line from the pump then ran around the front of the engine and up to the carb...meant mostly vapour entered the carb.
The XJ6 and XJ12 Jaguars had a cooling circuit off the a/c lines to condense the fuel and make sure liquid fuel got to the carb...
Very elegant solution.
fun car no need for a concoursclevel- and so nice to see a shop fix it right without gouging
When I did my 67 before I had the paint done I did a complete new wiring harness from nose to tail and HEI Distributor took out the old DC alt and put in a one wire 100 amp cleaned out all that wasn't needed anymore no coil ,voltage regulator life made simple always enjoy your videos Sir
what you guys did is WHY YOU ARE SUCCESSFUL. Kudos to you and your team. Super principled business acumen.
Doing this in the 70s was always a problem. With HP motors. Glad you posted this.
What a beautiful car. It was brought to the right place for maintenance. Nicely done. Great video.
This video will be one of your biggest audience. Really enjoyed it. Watching from the Philippines 🌴
Nice to know that parts are still available for these old classics.
One small item to add - the minute you mentioned voltage regulators - I had similar problems with a '72 Celica years ago. The alternator was good, but the voltage regulators would fail with surprising regularity. Eventually we tracked it down to a series of grounding faults in the engine compartment wiring. Just old wires that started to crack with age. Some quality time with the Haynes manual, and a spool of fresh wire, and we were able to stabilize the problem.
The clue came while driving on the freeway one day - the ammeter in the dash would go from charging to discharging going over bumps ... so that's a thing too.
Vapor lock is a MF”er !! Had a 70 challenger RT, most pain in the ass car I ve ever owned. I put a 1” spacer under the carburetor to help solve that issue .
Listening to Mrs. wizard reminds me of a more in-depth Mecum auto show, love it!
Transmission is a Borg Warner T5 replacement. Original was a 4-speed.
That five speed looks way out of place.
Great job with the video as a mustang owner I will use some of your knowledge to help me to keep both my 65 and 89 running, you should always recommend to people to keep a fire extinguisher on board,when I was a firefighter every car fire I went to was totaled!
This reminds me of a motel we stayed at in Wyoming in the 70s. The room had a window air conditioner plugged into a standard 16 gauge extension cord. The plug was melting in the wall socket. Lucky the place didn't burn down (or maybe it did!).
I wonder if the move to 220V was done in part to force people to put in a dedicated circuit for their window units and avoid wiring hazards like that.
worked for a mold shop that had 200ft of 16ga. cord going 30ft to two pop machines, I told the boss the cords were real hot, he didn't say much. Came in after the week-end and the cord outlets were fried.
please make a video about early 90s Honda / Acura. these cars are becoming classics.
That is a beautiful daily driver; my favorite body style of the Mustang!
I troubleshoot elevator systems, and Kenda really appreciate the diagnostics that you guys did to fix those problems once and for all. Very satisfying, keep up the good work thank you guys.
Good Job Daniel San !
Daniel San. Like in karate kid.
I own an 87 Buick Turbo T, the sister to the Grand National.......car is immaculate......one problem.........I have a significant battery drain when the car is parked.........it's driving me Crazy!
Excellent work as always Wizard. Daniel son as well. I wish every mechanic was doing like you guys. Thanks.
2:08
I love the way the right front headlight bezel and hood corner misalign by 1/2 inch... Wreck?
Simple reset of the rubber hood stops?
Aint that a beauty! My father had a 66 mustang growing up. He loved it! Was a purple-blue with a metallic flake. I hope to one day get him an old school mustang as a gift. Still had the 289 Decal in the garage he grew up in so I put it on my truck.
One of your best videos. Just really informative from start to finish.
In the end of video it would have been nice to hear it running...
Yeah a EV will never sound that good !!
Wow! That's awesome how far it has gone! Reliability and comfort is huge! Always believe that if you take care of your car it will take care of you. I don't mind spending money to keep things up. Having it run good and look good. That's quite a lot of work done. Between parts and labour 2 grand isn't that bad.
Keep up the good work guys! Quite enjoy your videos!
I got my mom’s 68 mustang, that had set inside for 33 years. I put in a new mech fuel pump, fuel lines and sending unit, new voltage regulator, new oil pressure sending unit, cleaned the points, and rebuilt the carb. Starts right up and drives great after that. It sat because it was a rebuilt 289 with a new holley carb, and carb tuning wasn’t dad’s forte.
Modern starter upgrade. I have thought about doing that myself on my 67. Now I know to retain the original style relay and feed the power that way. Simply by connecting the solinoid on the starter to the power feed.
Mr. Wizard, I had owned a classic with that burn your down rig fuel filter. Been recently viewing your videos. My kind of mechanic . Hopefully you place out that glass filter, my old Chevelle leaked one time & almost burnt her down
This was a budget fix done right! I love to see these kinds of fixes
That's wild about the vapor lock! I owned a 1967 Falcon Sports Coupe (289) until 1988, a 1967 Mustang Convertible (I-6-200) until 1983, a 1965 Mustang Notchback (I-6-200) until 1996 and sold my 1963 Falcon 144 (I-6) about 4 years ago. Ran into some wierd problems on all of them, but that vapor lock SNAFU is a new one. Great video, as always!-John in Texas
Not a mustang expert by any stretch, but I’m guessing it’s a 66 fastback. The color is amazing. Sea foam green?
That engine is called a Windsor small block. It came in 221, 260, 289, and 302 varients. The 351W looked the same but had a taller deck height to accommodate the 3.5" stroke.
I have heard that the motors from the Windsor plant went in trucks, and Clevelands generally went in cars. I'm pretty sure that was just something stupid that I heard somewhere.
Were there design differences between the Windsor and Cleveland?
Not only do I LOVE that color, but I love the fact that the owner or restorer did it in simple one-stage paint. Modern ultra-shiny paint jobs on vintage cars look horrible IMO- they take away all the charm of a vintage car, because those vintage cars never had that kind of paint. This 'Stang was very tastefully done.
I thought it was only me that hated these over straight and clear coated cars.
@@michaelannen4168 The best cars are the ones that were used and kept on the road. I don't care if they don't have all the "proper" parts, or aren't like the day they came off the assembly line...just good old cars that weren't fussed over, and thus still retain the aura of their day. Just give me an old 6-cylinder Fairlane that smells like nicotine inside...that's an honest car, 'cause thats's the way it was back in the day, right?
9:00 Re: small wire
Some engines used a resistance wire (what I called it) on old style distributors. When upgrading to a newer style, that wire caused issues also.
‘66 Ford Lawn-burner GT fastback. Do burnouts, get sideways, and scare old ladies. The Kragers look awesome. That smell that Mrs. Wizard was trying to describe, is a combination of leather, gasoline, cigarettes, and punani - ‘Merica! I used to have one of these bad boys and it’s definitely a slice of Americana - smells like freedom. Aces! The Mustangs were never the highest quality built, but that’s not what they are for. They’re for going to beach parties and making out at the drive-ins. Tell me I’m wrong. And oh yeah, getting sideways on somebody’s lawn. Great video - I love another success story- keep up the good work. Wizard!
Not leather seats, vinyl.
Coolest car you have ever had in the shop.
Wizard is above and beyond as is the entire staff...A lot of shops would have passed on this car simply because of it age.....
Well done Daniel-san
I have a 75 F-250 4X4 that runs and drives great. I've owned it since 2011. However, it had the same vapor locking problem you described. I was just about to install an inline electric fuel pump like in that Mustang. Then a gas station opened up that sold gas with no ethanol. Problem solved. Hallelujah!!!
Fit it anyway...you may travel out of range of being able to buy that good fuel?
Plus as the Wizard says...if the mechanical pump breaks down just flip the switch and the electric will push fuel up to the carb and get you home?
Earl Scheib: "I'll paint any car, any color for $99.95!"
I remember when it was $29.99
Not anymore. Inflation. It is now 399.99
@@andysupple4838it was $29.95
The good old days
@@andysupple4838 Same here. I had a girlfriend in high school that had a summer job at the local Earl Scheib as a taper...I remember thinking at the time if she was skilled/qualified 😉
I like that you have the skills to diagnose, and fix it right.
Note: The gas cap in the rear is incorrect; it's for a 1965 Mustang.
The grill is a '65.
The tail lights are also 1965.
Great guy that runs a wonderful shop. Love that there are still guys out there like this!
Good job done here but I have to pick on one thing. Replacing just the battery cable end. Cables that short do not cost much, and you could put a red one on the positive side to help someone more easily identify the positive side. As a fleet mechanic I have jump started many of our employees personal cars to get them home. Many of the cars started by just cleaning up the connection were the old wire goes into this style replacement end.
Beautiful Mustang owner go to your auto part store get some new complete cables one positive one negative, the battery ends are different sizes. Also make sure the stud size on the other end are correct. Have the store order the right length if needed, same as what is there, so it looks nice. Or have the Car Wizard look the right cables up and give you the part number. These guys do good work and the ends they put on will most likely last many years, but there is a better way.
This one is right down my alley, since that vintage was what I learned on. Now retired and able to watch you and tender admiration and Thanks!
NO computer! NO crappy plastic HVAC actuators! NO pulling the dash to change the heater core! NO electronic ANYTHING (except for maybe ignition>>I still like points). Popular model with LOTS of aftermarket support. As long as it doesn't rust or get wrecked, easy to fix almost FOREVER.
The performance of the Mustang - would definitely benefit from Electronic Ignition, with no more Contact Breaker Points to set / adjust. Ignition Timing would remain spot-on.
BINGO and I bet the environmental impact is half that of modern cars. I learned on these vehicles. SO easy to work on . The heater core, made me laugh, you can actually see it when sitting in the passenger seat lol. 2 bolts and 2 hoses, DONE.
What about a timed switch, to make the fuel pump run for 15s on ignition?
Color used to be called Robin's Egg Blue. Popular in 1950's.
Had same issue on a 67 cougar and just ran a new wire through the harness and it fixed the issue
That color is called Frost Turquoise. It was a factory Mustang color for 1967, as well as other Ford products. I have an original 67 Mustang in this color
It was called Arcadian Blue in 1966.
Dude this is your all time best video,keep ‘em coming
Not put on lift??
The Seats are VINYL not leather.
And it has Door PANELS not "cards".
If you look in ANY Parts Catalog they are listed as Door PANELS.
Good Job Daniel and Wizard!!! on fixing all the electrical issues!!
Beautiful driver. Brings back lots of memories. Thank you Mr & Mrs Wizard ❤
You guys are good to be able to fix all those things in a timely matter.
Thank you Car Wizard! I have been having almost exact vapor lock issue with my 66' Corvette! Ive been wondering if it was the newer gas formulations! I just ordered an electric pump to install by the tank. I love your videos and your very Ernest approach to mechanics and life. Keep doing good work it will only show that knowledge and skill is power and you are wielding it for good causes. I send links to people that have issues with cars you have worked on. And have settled some bets about the reliability of certain brands. You hold some serious street cred with car people. I love learning about how to diagnose issues and get my cars running well. I like your systematic approach.Take care and say hi to Mrs Wizard.
I believe electric pumps are added due to the crappy fuel we have now 😮
Yeah, modern fuel boils at a much lower temperature than old gasoline did. Not a problem with fuel injected cars under 50+psi, but it is with old cars running a few psi.
Awesome job! I hope the owner replaces that "burn the car to the ground" fuel filter though. Those things seem to always leak
Renew the seal every so often..at least twice in 60 years perhaps???
😮
SSDD, non-value added.
@@JSFGuyplease stop giving this 👦 boy - Bot attention. That is exactly what he wants .ignore it !!..
@@willydavid don't need to do a search on that because screw tube will protect the thin skin innocent on here. Same stuff different day.
Loved the video. I’m 68 yrs old and built a lot of classic cars in my life. I know nothing about todays computer run cars. Looks like all the problems were very basic problems. Things that I would have checked right off the bat. Great tip on adding the electric fuel pump. I liked and subbed. Good job.
Arrest the person who painted that car.
If my memory is correct that was an available color. I do agree with you it's not my first or even last choice
Definitely wouldn't have been my choice of colors.
Womp womp better than your car
Wouldn’t look bad with some white rims
Oh and delete the bumpers
Sounds like Danielson is a keeper! Solid repair. thanks for sharing
II’m happy that the owner can now drive or cruise in peace and enjoy the ride! Beautiful!
Again, as always, Mr. Wizard, a very enjoyable video as well a a very informative one. Many thanks.
I love watching the wizards videos. And I understand it's nothing spectacular, But I really wish I could have heard it run. I just really love The sound of old muscle cars
Not a color I would have considered, but seeing it now, it looks very nice and clean.
When I first saw this I thought Ms Wizard was getting a new ride. Also, your 18k from a million subscribers, need something special for this momentous event.
Makes me happy, seeing a guy so proud of his work
Clearly aftermarket - late model "5-Speed" - as Mustang's of the age didn't come with a 5-Speed - limited to a 4 speed :) You and your Team do a GREAT Job!!!!
Mustang 4 speeds are rather expensive while the T5 boxes from the fox bodies are plentiful and cheap. It's a decent upgrade.
Interesting diagnosis. Well done Sir. But 500 to 600 bucks to run a larger gauge wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid? For DIY people out there, it's not hard to replace that wire. Buy an ignition switch pigtail, remove the nut on the back of the ignition switch, remove the round connector and cut the wires right at the connector, solder or crimp connect the new pigtail on to the existing wiring except for the starter wire (red/blue stripe) which you'll attach to 10" of 14 gauge stranded wire. Now run that wire to the solenoid along the existing harness.
Thanks for taking us along
Thanks to you both, a satisfying video which illustrates why relays are needed, for one thing...wish you would have pulled the relay cover...the cut in coil pack was likely broken, preventing low rpm charging.Induction caused the V & C regulator coils to close/charge.
This would have been a fun one to play the guessing game. I'm not sure that I'd have figured that intermittent start issue out, though I might have guessed it in context and been lucky.
Thanks Mr. And Mrs.WIZARD
That is one of the most beautiful cars i have ever seen… what a daily driver… incredible.. great job wizard 💪👍🏻👏
FWIW, my mother had a '61 Falcon in something close to that shade--given that I last saw it some time in the mid '60s and that the lighting is different it might be even the same color. The valve covers and air filter look like part of the "Cobra Kit" that you could buy from Ford dealers for about 80 bucks. There might be other "Cobra Kit" pieces in there--you could get a kit with a 4 barrel and new manifold and a kit with cam, heads, and pistons to take two examples.
Loved look at the old Mustang.👌
Nice car! With the lower individual "MUSTANG" letters below the emblem, the tailpipes coming out of the rear valance panel, and the front-grille fog lights, this looks like a legit GT model. Originally, there was a stripe through the MUSTANG lettering.