Erring on the side of caution is never a bad idea, but having a thermal protection device very near the value of the original should be just fine. The tolerance for these devices may be well within a few degrees anyway.
That was not the point,it has to be the exact same cause it wouldn't be able to fit in between those resistors which is essential for it to work properly.
@@n6vcw the fuse "trips" when the resistors get to a certain temperature and for it to be accurate it would have to be nestled in between them,this is by no means what I have thought about and said with my knowledge,it is mentioned in the video,while he was going through the internet he read this and mentioned it. watch from 14:40 he mentions it from there.
It won't go in fire if you put 104 deg. one they probably have 10 deg. tolerance. You can remove it completely. Those thermal fuses are there if you run it folded, to kill the power and mostly play a role like waranty timer (use it few times before waranty goes of and throw it for no reason), no other function, i remove them everytime i see them in something, even if they are not blown. My grand mother had electrical blanket around from 1984 and i fix it 5-6 times (the weak spot was cable near blanket) over the course of 25 years and it never had such a fuse (it is probably still working) - just a 3 step switch and the heater. Such blanket can't go in fire because the heater is calculated for around 50 deg. max on mains, if something is shorted - well you have normal fuse for that. Thermal fuses are joke timing invention to make you throw the thing and pay extra money when waranty goes off - no other usefull purpose.
I can understand the safety concerns. But if you look at it logically and take a fuse that blows faster than the one from the manufacturer maybe about 5 degrees less to the one that the manufacturer has installed, there should be no problems of course only if they have the same size and are as good as possible sandwiched between the resistors.
yes.. you stole words from my mouth Hledf 🤣... ...its save to say that if use lower temperature than original it will cut faster but those volt and amp must to be same as original never bigger... but got to say I not electrical so..... but if it is mine i will trust those lower temperature ones.. but i understand that you will be careful 😃
plus you can / should(?) put thermal paste on it to improve heat transfer from the (over)heating resistors to the fuse. Also the expressed safety concerns about a proper fuse replacement very much sounded like the "safety and security" argument often used against right to repair. Bonus: There does not appear to be a transformer, so if you tear the blanket and the heating wires you can get a shock with 240V. Does not sound very safe either.
Perfectly safe, IMHO. If you bypassed the thermal fuse completely I would be concerned but you put a very close fuse in it and I'd be ok using it. Cheers Vince from the States!
I use thermal fuses on my 3D printers and they always blow at the stated temp (I buy a extra one and test it) regardless of size and thickness I think it is OK to fix.
I think it would be fine from a safety point, because wouldn't most thermal fuses blow long before the blanket overheats to dangerous levels anyway, or did I miss the point?
You had to mention coffee machines, Vince. I started twitching! Totally agree with not fixing these... not worth the risk on such a low-value item, even though a lower temperature fuse of good quality would almost certainly be better than the factory ones! Still not worth it for peace of mind. Great video, as always 👍
A higher amp rating for a thermal fuse shouldn't matter. It's not designed to protect against overcurrent, so it's not a situation where a higher amp rating would mean that the device could draw too much power, and the device already has a separate fuse to protect against overcurrent anyway correct? It seems like you can find thermal fuses with the right temperature rating that are 10A, and those should be just fine if I'm not mistaken. Disclaimer, I'm not an electronics engineer, I have some limited knowledge as a hobbyist, but it seems like common sense to me.
I get a loud snap sound when plug in right joycon (not the animation sound) but I get less sound when plug in left joycon. Both works properly and never dropped. Can somebody tell why that happens? (Nintendo switch)
A better idea would be a microcomputer controlled electric blanket with a sensor that sends the temperature back to the controller which compares the wanted temperature with the actual temperature and uses that to control the temperature and won't let it go any higher what about it Vince.
Why do these shoddy blankets use "thermal fuses" instead of "thermal switches"? I think it's because they're cheap nonsense. Well, then the whole blanket needs to be thrown away because if a single "overheating" event. Hair driers and electric heat fans seem to have no problem with the rare overheating event. Shouldn't our "nanny state" be looking into these silly electric blankets that so many people rely on to survive in freezing winters?
I’ve actually lived through an american version of an electric blanket fire and it had no thermal safety so I do believe I would use this version without any worries. Thank for the content!
I would never fall asleep with, or for that sake, never use and electric blanket. If you need to be warmer, throw another blanket on, or have a cup of tea. There is no reason to involve mains electricity with bed time.
Look you chose to not put an " dodgy" repair back into the wild. That's a fix. Frankly the resistor/ thermal fuse assembly isn't brilliant out of the box.. .it depends too much on the thermal characteristics of the thermo fuse and ambient temperature What its trying to do is , sense current in the heater elements. Looking for a short that reduces the elements resistance. The current and thus temperature of the resistors goes up if heating element develops fault. The thermal fuse hold and open temperature are chosen with the value of the resistors to balance between operation and fault.
I honestly don't blame you for deciding not to go ahead with the repair, I'd probably come to the same decision. Heat stuff getting them working though just for the learning experience. Michael sent me and Joey one of those signs too, they're amazing. He said he uses old fence panels (I think)
I never repair any mains voltage equipment for people nowadays it's just not worth the risk. USB voltages only on my projects now (5V) with a certified PSU.
I think repairing switching power supplies is pretty safe compared to repairing electric blankets. I've fixed many switching power supplies, but some have failed again later, because the cause is not always a single cap or transistor, usually multiple caps are to blame, and if you don't replace them all, it might fail later on. But electric blankets - no thanks. You can probably light a cotton bed sheet with just a 5 W resistor, if the wattage is located in a small place.
Just found your channel looking for info on fixing my electric blanket (Biddeford). Nice clear video! I noted that the higher temperature fuse had the white heat-transfer paste, which makes sense because that fuse needs to get more heat faster to pop at 102C vs the 76C fuse for the same fault condition (i.e. heat flux from those capacitors). I like the safety cautious approach as well, but why does the amperage of the thermal fuse matter? You found one onlilne for 80C but at 10A vs 2A. The thermal fuse would not be popping off due to high current through itself, but due to high current through the neighboring resistors (causing heat). So why would the 10A vs 2A rating matter for a *thermal* fuse? I'll be watching your other videos now. Thanks for your channel!
Great stuff Vince, and spot on conclussion regards not attempting to replace the thermal fuse, unless you can get an exact replacement. Because people sleep wrapped / covered in these - it's just far far too much of a risk to attempt to repair one. Even if I had one of these where I replaced with the exact part, I am not sure I would be able to sleep at night lol. It's as you say - is the fuse making the same physical connection to the resistors, is it able to couple the temperature correctly (a fake may look identical but might not absorb the heat the same). You could fit a 5 degree less fuse and find the fuse has a 10 degree less transfer rate because of its package (sort of thing a cheap brand might suffer).
This is extremely interesting as I actually have one of these on my bed right now! However it does work as intended, if it was faulty, I'd send it straight back to Argos for a replacement as I wouldn't recommend even attempting any repair on such a product, as you will most rightly point out to us.
to be honest, these are supposed to be used to warm a bed before getting into it. I have mined set up via alexa, and 15 mins before bed, it comes on, warms my bed whilst i get ready for bed, then it is turned off, whilst I have been home to stay safe, then I get into bed warm, and electricity to it is off.
i would use those thermal fuses their so close to the original that they would disconnect the power well before a fire could happen, i'm not even convinced that those blankets are capable of bursting into flames, they only use 100w max and that's spread evenly over the whole blanket.
After blowing so many electric blankets controllers over the years, I think the main lesson here is to never use the highest heat setting! Great explanation and clear precise video 👍Top man!
Someone asked me to look at their slow cooker. After tracing the fault to a thermal fuse I refused to fix it. I didn't want to be responsible for their house burning down or or wiping out the family out in their sleep if it caught fire during the night. It's just not worth the risk.
Hi Vince, can i ask why your not putting out as many videos recently? Love the channel and re-watch many of your Retro vids. Hope alls well, regards Chris
I'd say the product is borderline dangerous as it is. Look at the build quality - one of them held down with silastic (an insulator), the other not, made in China with inconsistent, unbranded parts (yes I'm aware they're different models). There is no way that two examples of the same product will trip in the same conditions. This kind of design should have been replaced with a proper microcontroller-equipped version years, if not decades ago.
Title should be "Faulty Electric Blanket/Temperature Probe" I've been tricked into watching a temperature probe be fixed. Something I swore I would never watch again!
Well I'm quite sure, this is what as happened to mine, so annoying that it's not a fixable problem, they are no longer as cheap now to replace, with the current sky high electric, gas prices, thanks for the vid.
l'd fix and use it, a few degrees difference is no problem. But some people may try this repair and use a far different value thermal resistor and create a real danger.
Reading through some of these comments, methinks some of you would die of fright if you saw your own shadows! How do you get through your daily lives? 20 people a year are killed by electric blankets. 36,000 people a year are killed in car accidents. That means, you are 1800 times more likely to die going to the store to buy an electric blanket, than you would by using the electric blanket! I'm 47 years old, and I have never known, nor have I ever even heard of someone dying in an electric blanket fire.
I wonder how the thermal fuse tripped though. Could it be that the user placed the controller under the covers, right against the heater wires? Or an external heat source like a nearby radiator? At 230V and with a resitor of 1.8k a current of 0.125A flows through the resistor. Power dissipation is about 28W. If the heater wires are the same resistance The current would half and power about 7W. in a confined space that's quite a lot. I wonder at what temerature the resistor runsat during normal operation. I thought that's what you were about to test next with the thermometer. If the thermal fuse is already close to the tripping point, it wouldn't take much to do so. Even a weak short would quickly trip it.
The 1.8k resistors are not in series with the blanket. They can't handle that much wattage. I think there is a NTC resistor in the blanket which is in series with the resistors. That way the temperature of the resistors depends on the temperature in the blanket.
My side of electric blanket stopped working. Controller checks out okay and provides power but the blanket wiring (checked at plug) is all open circuit. New blanket now stuck at Evri/hermes. Grrrrrrr
and were guna come up doorbell 🤣🤣🤣 ,the second one is the new LED type same as the 2 ive just been asked to fix & its exactly the same problem as these so it's obviously a common issue/fault with them
I've ended up with my one failing and was able to find the correct 76°c fuse from a seller in Poland to the UK, having replaced it, the control unit, heated up and failed the same.
the potty stuff would enhance heat transfer and so, a higher temperature fuse was appropiate.70ºC on a loose contact with the resistors... means the resistors themselves are probably 100 ....
Having had a bed catch fire with a silent night electric blanket back 20 years ago, I would replace it for the cost. like everything these days, its knocked out in China so designed to last a minimal time
I was so please to find your video but I do agree it’s not worth the risk for such a cheap item which is guaranteed for three years, at least it is through silent night. The issue with these products is that the mat is susceptible to folding which I suspect is what causes the fuse to blow. Not worth the risk of fixing but thanks for releasing the video and convincing me not to fix it. 👍
no dont use it if the fuse has blown they work on a very crude principle that the ni-chrome heating wire is wound around the common wire with an insulating plastic that melts at a certain temperature in case there is a fault or hot spot, this then decreases the heater resistance and heats the resistors in the control unit and opens the thermal fuse.
im starting to get confused about this channel, it has jumped from repair videos, to repair videos. i wish they would just stick to repair videos so it wouldnt be so confusing. 🤣 Psst. that was sarcasm... but im not sure, i got lost amongst the letters
Vince, I have an Anker Bluetooth speaker with a dead internal battery and it Sqarks intermittently at high volume, if you are interested I can send it to you for your channel. I don't want it back.
Nope it goes in the bin with its wires cut off. I heard of someone dying and being burned to death as they slept, it was a cheapo generic one bought from a market stall. You’ve made the right choice and you can sleep at night knowing your actions haven’t endangered someone’s life.
HHH is an indication Hi or an open thermal wire reading. Yes I would fix it as a difference of just a few degrees for the fuse should not be a problem it will still open on over heating.
Can you send me I don’t know where it is but can you send me your penguin awesome sound system if you still have it vents because Grandad stones system is broken so can you please I don’t know if you have sent it or not but if you haven’t it might be somewhere and give it to me because Grandad Wilson system is broken I am off the record player is not working it’s bust so can you give it to me
I would throw that 1 away and buy a new one You don't know what's wrong with that 1 what's not working it could click not working it could cables fire it could kill someone
Too dangerous. These products are made cheaply at a cost. There doesn't seem to be too much safety built into the device either, like what a battery would have.
Wow. Of course, I thought of opening the controller on my TT-FF electric blanket. I'm so glad I didn't have to. Why are these manufacturers allowed to sell blankets that go on the blink just from overheating once. I use a weak hair-dryer to pump warm air into my bed. It has overheated a few times, due to my socks blocking it's throughput (silly me). But, like most heat fused electrics, it works perfectly when it has cooled down again. Why is the electric blanket industry not investigated (or regulated)? Many people rely on an electric blanket to survive at night in freezing temperatures. This is a major scandal.
Doesn't seem like much of a thing here in Canada. Even in -20 degree winter days. I only saw one in person, and it was in an RV that we borrowed from someone else.
My silent night heated blanket stopped working for no reason, went and brought a new one, worked fine, now I try to turn it on tonight and it's stopped working again?
Personally I would be happy to fix it for my personal use, but I would not fix it for resale for example. I would find a thermal fuse as close to the rated fuse as possible say within 1 or 2 degrees if possible go lower than the rated for extra safety, the voltage is important, but the current is a maximum, so that fuse can handle a maximum of 2 amps a higher rating should work fine too, as you're thermal cut off value is still the same, and it should have a second fuse protecting it from over current. as others have said the two 1.8kohm resistors are there to get hot and trigger the fuse if too much current flows through them, this is because power in a pure resistor is I^2*R and power from a resistor is dissipated purely as heat so if the current I increases so does the Heat from those two resistors. since the two resistors will be in series with the heating Element in the blanket the sane current flowing through the resistors flows through the heating Element thus the heating element current is the same as that flowing in the resistors and if that current was to get too high to the point where the blanket could burn you, the fuse should blow first. this what is important imho is that the thermal fuse is nestled between the two resistors and that you have good thermal contact between the resistors and the fuse, and use thermal cement to ensure good heat transfer! the reason i suspect having the exact cut off point is not necessary is, because 1. i bet those resistors have maybe a 5% tolerance so all the resistors wont be exactly the same value and 2. there will be a fairly decent margin left for safety's sake anyway because no responsible company is going to risk a product that could potentially burn you, let alone set your house on fire. Though any repair you performed would be totally at your own risk!
The resistors are not in series with the blanket. Suppose the blanket takes 1A. P = i^2*r = 1800w. Now these resistors are not 1800w for sure. The circuit just acts as a secondary timeout protection in case the thermostat fails..
Another possibility is that there' is an NTC in the blanket in series with the resistors. The higher the temperature, the higher the current in the resistors. In this case the circuit would act as a secondary temperature protection. But one thing is sure: these resistors are not in series with the blanket.
@@kriswillems5661 that all depends, but if those two resistors are in parallel at they would be 900 ohm.. Which would of course be 900watt but i very much doubt that it would be that, either. Though if its cutting power to the device it must be in series to the switch / heating element in order to cut the supply when it fails
badged chinese rubbish, I bought a double at Christmas first one side went then the other, either need to return it under the 3 year guarantee or repair it with better components
A couple of years ago I had an electric blanket nearly catch on fire while I was sleeping. A nasty odor of burning plastic woke me up and the next second I saw smoke coming from the controller unit. I didn't bother taking it apart to see what went wrong though...
There is an NTC in the blanket in series with the 1.8 k resistors. That way the temperature of the resistors will rise when the temperature of the blanket rises.
I used to sell these things many years ago. They are under blankets and usually not designed to be powered up while laying on it. You preheat the bed and turn it off and unplug before getting into bed. I would imagine they would be not the most comfortable things to lay on with the wires running the length of it.
I use an electric blanket as a mattress pad, and have been for months. It's on all night long. I shut it off in the morning, so it's not on when I'm not in bed (or at home).
Vince Please do not use those blankets even you fix it... I know a person who lost their house in a fire started by one of those blankets... You can see the electronics it is super simple... they aren't fire fireproof..
My grandma used to have electric blankets. I remember she would just use them to warm the beds up as it got pretty cold in the bedrooms during winter (north of France, no central heating and bad insulation) but she would remove them right before my sister and I went to bed. I didn't know you could leave them on all night long and as a matter of fact I wouldn't be comfortable sleeping with those because of fire hazard.
Personally I don't think I would fix something like this or want it in my home. We had one of these back in the 90s, yes it was a very good quality, but the biggest worry with it was, a short circuit.
never use these blankets again when folded. you should always roll them up. if you have them folded there is a high risk of fire! these are almost number 1 in terms of fire risk, so never fold.
Well Vince I really enjoyed that. Didn't solve my electric throw problem, continuity was present EVERYWHERE including that thermal fuse, but it was still fascinating to watch. Nicely done. Meanwhile I can watch my controller flashing E2 until 12th night when I put all the Chistmas lights away! Orange clashes anyway...
This shuld be A-okay, nothing going to x-plode or catch fire with these smal values.. It's not 1960's tech👍 No nede tha have the same brand or value, as loong as the value is less then OG.
I did this repair - no need to get EXACTLY the same rated heat fuse, in my opinion (only!). I got a fuse that was something close from the bay of e, unsoldered the old one, put in the new one, all good. Remember to disassemble carefully, don't lose the spring and ball bearing that makes the slider swith 'notchy'!
They are SO cheap to run, like a couple of pence for the night. They are also really quite safe these days, those thin wires would burn through and the blanket is made of fire retardant material these days as well. They are much safer than the old ones which didn't have the thermal fuse either.
90 percent of all electric blankets and their controls are made (badly?) in China. And thousands of people are willing to put them on their beds and sleep under them. I am quite sure your repair would be just as safe as the device was when it left the Chinese factory. Still, I wouldn't be repairing them either, the liability is just too great. Send the damn things back to the manufacturer and make them responsible for the repair of an obviously badly designed control.
people are so scared of electric blankets.. just DON'T have it on while you're in bed and specially NOT while you're sleeping! pre-heat the bed before going to sleep and everything will be ok.. been using them for all my life, never had a problem if you use them wisely!..
Erring on the side of caution is never a bad idea, but having a thermal protection device very near the value of the original should be just fine. The tolerance for these devices may be well within a few degrees anyway.
That was not the point,it has to be the exact same cause it wouldn't be able to fit in between those resistors which is essential for it to work properly.
@@MeMelon4u - How so (serious question, BTW)? IOW, why does it have to fit between them, rather than nestled atop them?
@@n6vcw the fuse "trips" when the resistors get to a certain temperature and for it to be accurate it would have to be nestled in between them,this is by no means what I have thought about and said with my knowledge,it is mentioned in the video,while he was going through the internet he read this and mentioned it.
watch from 14:40 he mentions it from there.
Was just thinking, where's Vince?
It won't go in fire if you put 104 deg. one they probably have 10 deg. tolerance. You can remove it completely. Those thermal fuses are there if you run it folded, to kill the power and mostly play a role like waranty timer (use it few times before waranty goes of and throw it for no reason), no other function, i remove them everytime i see them in something, even if they are not blown. My grand mother had electrical blanket around from 1984 and i fix it 5-6 times (the weak spot was cable near blanket) over the course of 25 years and it never had such a fuse (it is probably still working) - just a 3 step switch and the heater. Such blanket can't go in fire because the heater is calculated for around 50 deg. max on mains, if something is shorted - well you have normal fuse for that. Thermal fuses are joke timing invention to make you throw the thing and pay extra money when waranty goes off - no other usefull purpose.
Thanks technixbul 👍👍
Ahhh so pleased the mug got there safely! 🙂
Thanks Kip, nice looking mug. In daily use now, I get slightly jealous when I see my wife drinking out of your mug and not a MMV mug!!!! 🤣🤣
I can understand the safety concerns. But if you look at it logically and take a fuse that blows faster than the one from the manufacturer maybe about 5 degrees less to the one that the manufacturer has installed, there should be no problems of course only if they have the same size and are as good as possible sandwiched between the resistors.
yes.. you stole words from my mouth Hledf 🤣... ...its save to say that if use lower temperature than original it will cut faster but those volt and amp must to be same as original never bigger... but got to say I not electrical so..... but if it is mine i will trust those lower temperature ones.. but i understand that you will be careful 😃
plus you can / should(?) put thermal paste on it to improve heat transfer from the (over)heating resistors to the fuse. Also the expressed safety concerns about a proper fuse replacement very much sounded like the "safety and security" argument often used against right to repair.
Bonus: There does not appear to be a transformer, so if you tear the blanket and the heating wires you can get a shock with 240V. Does not sound very safe either.
Exactly, i dont think the chinese guys throwing them together make it better then using a lower Temp Value Fuse :D
@@agnag1 Thermal paste will dry out and will then likely insulate the thermal fuse from the resistors.
To be honest, I think your repair is superior workmanship to what came from the factory. I'd probably use it. :D
Perfectly safe, IMHO. If you bypassed the thermal fuse completely I would be concerned but you put a very close fuse in it and I'd be ok using it. Cheers Vince from the States!
I use thermal fuses on my 3D printers and they always blow at the stated temp (I buy a extra one and test it) regardless of size and thickness I think it is OK to fix.
I think it would be fine from a safety point, because wouldn't most thermal fuses blow long before the blanket overheats to dangerous levels anyway, or did I miss the point?
All my silentnight electric blankets fail within a few uses too.
You had to mention coffee machines, Vince. I started twitching! Totally agree with not fixing these... not worth the risk on such a low-value item, even though a lower temperature fuse of good quality would almost certainly be better than the factory ones! Still not worth it for peace of mind. Great video, as always 👍
🤣👍
Sometimes, it's not the cost to replace or fix the thing, it's about how much of it ends up in the landfill. At least in my mind...
A higher amp rating for a thermal fuse shouldn't matter. It's not designed to protect against overcurrent, so it's not a situation where a higher amp rating would mean that the device could draw too much power, and the device already has a separate fuse to protect against overcurrent anyway correct? It seems like you can find thermal fuses with the right temperature rating that are 10A, and those should be just fine if I'm not mistaken. Disclaimer, I'm not an electronics engineer, I have some limited knowledge as a hobbyist, but it seems like common sense to me.
I get a loud snap sound when plug in right joycon (not the animation sound) but I get less sound when plug in left joycon. Both works properly and never dropped. Can somebody tell why that happens? (Nintendo switch)
Pls somebody tell why that happens
Mains powered electric blankets are scary to me, what's wrong with using smaller voltage dc and being safe
Hey my mate Vince! I just fixed a broken Bluetooth speaker thanks to your videos. Thank you so much for the great content. Cheers
A better idea would be a microcomputer controlled electric blanket with a sensor that sends the temperature back to the controller which compares the wanted temperature with the actual temperature and uses that to control the temperature and won't let it go any higher what about it Vince.
Why do these shoddy blankets use "thermal fuses" instead of "thermal switches"?
I think it's because they're cheap nonsense. Well, then the whole blanket needs to be thrown away because if a single "overheating" event. Hair driers and electric heat fans seem to have no problem with the rare overheating event.
Shouldn't our "nanny state" be looking into these silly electric blankets that so many people rely on to survive in freezing winters?
I’ve actually lived through an american version of an electric blanket fire and it had no thermal safety so I do believe I would use this version without any worries. Thank for the content!
I would never fall asleep with, or for that sake, never use and electric blanket. If you need to be warmer, throw another blanket on, or have a cup of tea. There is no reason to involve mains electricity with bed time.
Look
you chose to not put an " dodgy" repair back into the wild. That's a fix.
Frankly the resistor/ thermal fuse assembly isn't brilliant out of the box..
.it depends too much on the thermal characteristics of the thermo fuse and ambient temperature
What its trying to do is , sense current in the heater elements. Looking for a short that reduces the elements resistance.
The current and thus temperature of the resistors goes up if heating element develops fault. The thermal fuse hold and open temperature are chosen with the value of the resistors to balance between operation and fault.
I honestly don't blame you for deciding not to go ahead with the repair, I'd probably come to the same decision. Heat stuff getting them working though just for the learning experience.
Michael sent me and Joey one of those signs too, they're amazing. He said he uses old fence panels (I think)
I never repair any mains voltage equipment for people nowadays it's just not worth the risk. USB voltages only on my projects now (5V) with a certified PSU.
@@chrisreynolds6331 yeah I don't blame you. I personally fix consoles mainly but I won't repair power supplies
I think repairing switching power supplies is pretty safe compared to repairing electric blankets. I've fixed many switching power supplies, but some have failed again later, because the cause is not always a single cap or transistor, usually multiple caps are to blame, and if you don't replace them all, it might fail later on. But electric blankets - no thanks. You can probably light a cotton bed sheet with just a 5 W resistor, if the wattage is located in a small place.
97° would be fine as it's 5° lower than spec and would self sacrifice, if it were able to reach higher temperatures.
I don't trust any electric blanket never used one and never will to much horror stories , lying on 220V NO thank you, Great video 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks AR 👍👍
Just found your channel looking for info on fixing my electric blanket (Biddeford). Nice clear video! I noted that the higher temperature fuse had the white heat-transfer paste, which makes sense because that fuse needs to get more heat faster to pop at 102C vs the 76C fuse for the same fault condition (i.e. heat flux from those capacitors). I like the safety cautious approach as well, but why does the amperage of the thermal fuse matter? You found one onlilne for 80C but at 10A vs 2A. The thermal fuse would not be popping off due to high current through itself, but due to high current through the neighboring resistors (causing heat). So why would the 10A vs 2A rating matter for a *thermal* fuse? I'll be watching your other videos now. Thanks for your channel!
Great stuff Vince, and spot on conclussion regards not attempting to replace the thermal fuse, unless you can get an exact replacement. Because people sleep wrapped / covered in these - it's just far far too much of a risk to attempt to repair one. Even if I had one of these where I replaced with the exact part, I am not sure I would be able to sleep at night lol. It's as you say - is the fuse making the same physical connection to the resistors, is it able to couple the temperature correctly (a fake may look identical but might not absorb the heat the same). You could fit a 5 degree less fuse and find the fuse has a 10 degree less transfer rate because of its package (sort of thing a cheap brand might suffer).
This is extremely interesting as I actually have one of these on my bed right now! However it does work as intended, if it was faulty, I'd send it straight back to Argos for a replacement as I wouldn't recommend even attempting any repair on such a product, as you will most rightly point out to us.
to be honest, these are supposed to be used to warm a bed before getting into it. I have mined set up via alexa, and 15 mins before bed, it comes on, warms my bed whilst i get ready for bed, then it is turned off, whilst I have been home to stay safe, then I get into bed warm, and electricity to it is off.
It looks like it uses the two resistors to heat the thermal fuse so the longer it is turned on the hotter the resistors get.
Yes, looks that way. Cheers Scott, hope you keeping well 👍👍
i would use those thermal fuses their so close to the original that they would disconnect the power well before a fire could happen, i'm not even convinced that those blankets are capable of bursting into flames, they only use 100w max and that's spread evenly over the whole blanket.
After blowing so many electric blankets controllers over the years, I think the main lesson here is to never use the highest heat setting!
Great explanation and clear precise video 👍Top man!
Nice one vice. I enjoy watching your video's. I've also been repairing a few things myself over on my channel.
Someone asked me to look at their slow cooker. After tracing the fault to a thermal fuse I refused to fix it. I didn't want to be responsible for their house burning down or or wiping out the family out in their sleep if it caught fire during the night. It's just not worth the risk.
Yes. There is still plenty of room in our landfill tips.
Hi Vince, can i ask why your not putting out as many videos recently? Love the channel and re-watch many of your Retro vids. Hope alls well, regards Chris
I'd say the product is borderline dangerous as it is. Look at the build quality - one of them held down with silastic (an insulator), the other not, made in China with inconsistent, unbranded parts (yes I'm aware they're different models). There is no way that two examples of the same product will trip in the same conditions. This kind of design should have been replaced with a proper microcontroller-equipped version years, if not decades ago.
Title should be "Faulty Electric Blanket/Temperature Probe"
I've been tricked into watching a temperature probe be fixed. Something I swore I would never watch again!
Well I'm quite sure, this is what as happened to mine, so annoying that it's not a fixable problem, they are no longer as cheap now to replace, with the current sky high electric, gas prices, thanks for the vid.
l'd fix and use it, a few degrees difference is no problem. But some people may try this repair and use a far different value thermal resistor and create a real danger.
I have the TT-FF one. It lights up but blanket doesn't warm up. What gives??
Hi Vince quick question would you be up to fixing an hearing aid loop ,let us know I think it's right up your street , will pay you of course
Reading through some of these comments, methinks some of you would die of fright if you saw your own shadows! How do you get through your daily lives? 20 people a year are killed by electric blankets. 36,000 people a year are killed in car accidents. That means, you are 1800 times more likely to die going to the store to buy an electric blanket, than you would by using the electric blanket! I'm 47 years old, and I have never known, nor have I ever even heard of someone dying in an electric blanket fire.
I wonder how the thermal fuse tripped though. Could it be that the user placed the controller under the covers, right against the heater wires? Or an external heat source like a nearby radiator? At 230V and with a resitor of 1.8k a current of 0.125A flows through the resistor. Power dissipation is about 28W. If the heater wires are the same resistance The current would half and power about 7W. in a confined space that's quite a lot. I wonder at what temerature the resistor runsat during normal operation. I thought that's what you were about to test next with the thermometer.
If the thermal fuse is already close to the tripping point, it wouldn't take much to do so. Even a weak short would quickly trip it.
The 1.8k resistors are not in series with the blanket. They can't handle that much wattage. I think there is a NTC resistor in the blanket which is in series with the resistors. That way the temperature of the resistors depends on the temperature in the blanket.
@@kriswillems5661 I see, thanks for clarifying!
My side of electric blanket stopped working. Controller checks out okay and provides power but the blanket wiring (checked at plug) is all open circuit. New blanket now stuck at Evri/hermes. Grrrrrrr
and were guna come up doorbell 🤣🤣🤣 ,the second one is the new LED type same as the 2 ive just been asked to fix & its exactly the same problem as these so it's obviously a common issue/fault with them
I've ended up with my one failing and was able to find the correct 76°c fuse from a seller in Poland to the UK, having replaced it, the control unit, heated up and failed the same.
I always thought that these were bed warmers, supposed to turn them off before getting in bed?
the potty stuff would enhance heat transfer and so, a higher temperature fuse was appropiate.70ºC on a loose contact with the resistors... means the resistors themselves are probably 100 ....
It is unplugged from the electricity?? Is that why I can see the bloody plug right next to it??????? 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄
Would I fix it? Absolutely! If the original fuse is a 76C, 80C is only a few degrees more! How much hotter can that thing get?!
Having had a bed catch fire with a silent night electric blanket back 20 years ago, I would replace it for the cost. like everything these days, its knocked out in China so designed to last a minimal time
I was so please to find your video but I do agree it’s not worth the risk for such a cheap item which is guaranteed for three years, at least it is through silent night. The issue with these products is that the mat is susceptible to folding which I suspect is what causes the fuse to blow. Not worth the risk of fixing but thanks for releasing the video and convincing me not to fix it. 👍
no dont use it if the fuse has blown they work on a very crude principle that the ni-chrome heating wire is wound around the common wire with an insulating plastic that melts at a certain temperature in case there is a fault or hot spot, this then decreases the heater resistance and heats the resistors in the control unit and opens the thermal fuse.
im starting to get confused about this channel, it has jumped from repair videos, to repair videos. i wish they would just stick to repair videos so it wouldnt be so confusing. 🤣
Psst. that was sarcasm... but im not sure, i got lost amongst the letters
Vince, I have an Anker Bluetooth speaker with a dead internal battery and it Sqarks intermittently at high volume, if you are interested I can send it to you for your channel. I don't want it back.
Nope it goes in the bin with its wires cut off. I heard of someone dying and being burned to death as they slept, it was a cheapo generic one bought from a market stall. You’ve made the right choice and you can sleep at night knowing your actions haven’t endangered someone’s life.
It would be great if there where cooling blankets for summer
HHH is an indication Hi or an open thermal wire reading.
Yes I would fix it as a difference of just a few degrees for the fuse should not be a problem it will still open on over heating.
Can you send me I don’t know where it is but can you send me your penguin awesome sound system if you still have it vents because Grandad stones system is broken so can you please I don’t know if you have sent it or not but if you haven’t it might be somewhere and give it to me because Grandad Wilson system is broken I am off the record player is not working it’s bust so can you give it to me
I go to sleep with a electric under blanket and over blanket on all night on low , , keeps me cosy all night
Ah Kip hakes 👏🏼 enjoy his channel
I would throw that 1 away and buy a new one You don't know what's wrong with that 1 what's not working it could click not working it could cables fire it could kill someone
Good that you didn't fix this. They are unsafe as such. Fixing them would make it even worse.
Too dangerous. These products are made cheaply at a cost. There doesn't seem to be too much safety built into the device either, like what a battery would have.
Wow. Of course, I thought of opening the controller on my TT-FF electric blanket. I'm so glad I didn't have to.
Why are these manufacturers allowed to sell blankets that go on the blink just from overheating once. I use a weak hair-dryer to pump warm air into my bed.
It has overheated a few times, due to my socks blocking it's throughput (silly me). But, like most heat fused electrics, it works perfectly when it has cooled down again.
Why is the electric blanket industry not investigated (or regulated)? Many people rely on an electric blanket to survive at night in freezing temperatures. This is a major scandal.
Doesn't seem like much of a thing here in Canada. Even in -20 degree winter days. I only saw one in person, and it was in an RV that we borrowed from someone else.
no I would not fix it. not on something like that anyway
My silent night heated blanket stopped working for no reason, went and brought a new one, worked fine, now I try to turn it on tonight and it's stopped working again?
Personally I would be happy to fix it for my personal use, but I would not fix it for resale for example.
I would find a thermal fuse as close to the rated fuse as possible say within 1 or 2 degrees if possible go lower than the rated for extra safety, the voltage is important, but the current is a maximum, so that fuse can handle a maximum of 2 amps a higher rating should work fine too, as you're thermal cut off value is still the same, and it should have a second fuse protecting it from over current.
as others have said the two 1.8kohm resistors are there to get hot and trigger the fuse if too much current flows through them, this is because power in a pure resistor is I^2*R and power from a resistor is dissipated purely as heat so if the current I increases so does the Heat from those two resistors.
since the two resistors will be in series with the heating Element in the blanket the sane current flowing through the resistors flows through the heating Element thus the heating element current is the same as that flowing in the resistors and if that current was to get too high to the point where the blanket could burn you, the fuse should blow first.
this what is important imho is that the thermal fuse is nestled between the two resistors and that you have good thermal contact between the resistors and the fuse, and use thermal cement to ensure good heat transfer!
the reason i suspect having the exact cut off point is not necessary is, because 1. i bet those resistors have maybe a 5% tolerance so all the resistors wont be exactly the same value and 2. there will be a fairly decent margin left for safety's sake anyway because no responsible company is going to risk a product that could potentially burn you, let alone set your house on fire.
Though any repair you performed would be totally at your own risk!
The resistors are not in series with the blanket. Suppose the blanket takes 1A. P = i^2*r = 1800w. Now these resistors are not 1800w for sure. The circuit just acts as a secondary timeout protection in case the thermostat fails..
Another possibility is that there' is an NTC in the blanket in series with the resistors. The higher the temperature, the higher the current in the resistors. In this case the circuit would act as a secondary temperature protection. But one thing is sure: these resistors are not in series with the blanket.
@@kriswillems5661 that all depends, but if those two resistors are in parallel at they would be 900 ohm.. Which would of course be 900watt but i very much doubt that it would be that, either. Though if its cutting power to the device it must be in series to the switch / heating element in order to cut the supply when it fails
My silentnight heated blanket did work, but not the heated indicator light is in, but the blanket is cold!!!!!
The risk of fire not worth the fix.
May be something else causing thermal fuse to fail.
What purpose the ball bearing serve?
Was it put back or discarded?
It must have been there for a reason?
badged chinese rubbish, I bought a double at Christmas first one side went then the other, either need to return it under the 3 year guarantee or repair it with better components
Just seen you're not recommending repair lol, thank you though!
A couple of years ago I had an electric blanket nearly catch on fire while I was sleeping. A nasty odor of burning plastic woke me up and the next second I saw smoke coming from the controller unit. I didn't bother taking it apart to see what went wrong though...
My light comes on but only a quarter of the blanket gets hot ,3/4 stays cold
I call it blanky. Brave lil toaster 💜
With the plug on screen. I dont think you need to tell us it's unplugged :-P
Why use this ? A duvet never fails and doesn't cost electricity.
Mate i don't know why my ps3 doesn't on , no light please can you help
You should never repair these just throw away so dangerous
I'm the only dude here, who thinking, it's an absolutely silly idea , putting the thermal fuse in the control box, 5 ft away from the heating device ?
There is an NTC in the blanket in series with the 1.8 k resistors. That way the temperature of the resistors will rise when the temperature of the blanket rises.
I used to sell these things many years ago. They are under blankets and usually not designed to be powered up while laying on it. You preheat the bed and turn it off and unplug before getting into bed. I would imagine they would be not the most comfortable things to lay on with the wires running the length of it.
I use an electric blanket as a mattress pad, and have been for months. It's on all night long. I shut it off in the morning, so it's not on when I'm not in bed (or at home).
I can't feel the wires at all as they're imbedded in the thick fabric .
But WHY did each of those fuses blow? 🤫
Vince Please do not use those blankets even you fix it... I know a person who lost their house in a fire started by one of those blankets... You can see the electronics it is super simple... they aren't fire fireproof..
A LASER engraver was used to engrave wood.
Can you make a video of you fixing a ps5
Loooong time no see mate, why the long delay in videos 🙄 🤔
Dont Solder the New fuse between those resistors
does the ball bearing sit on top of the spring?
Best fix for electric blanket is bin.
same issue in mine. thermal fuse blown
Where is your piano sound system
My grandma used to have electric blankets. I remember she would just use them to warm the beds up as it got pretty cold in the bedrooms during winter (north of France, no central heating and bad insulation) but she would remove them right before my sister and I went to bed. I didn't know you could leave them on all night long and as a matter of fact I wouldn't be comfortable sleeping with those because of fire hazard.
It's probably the "safest" place for a fire to start inside the house while you are asleep.
Personally I don't think I would fix something like this or want it in my home.
We had one of these back in the 90s, yes it was a very good quality, but the biggest worry with it was, a short circuit.
never use these blankets again when folded. you should always roll them up. if you have them folded there is a high risk of fire! these are almost number 1 in terms of fire risk, so never fold.
Well Vince I really enjoyed that. Didn't solve my electric throw problem, continuity was present EVERYWHERE including that thermal fuse, but it was still fascinating to watch. Nicely done.
Meanwhile I can watch my controller flashing E2 until 12th night when I put all the Chistmas lights away! Orange clashes anyway...
This shuld be A-okay, nothing going to x-plode or catch fire with these smal values.. It's not 1960's tech👍 No nede tha have the same brand or value, as loong as the value is less then OG.
I did this repair - no need to get EXACTLY the same rated heat fuse, in my opinion (only!). I got a fuse that was something close from the bay of e, unsoldered the old one, put in the new one, all good. Remember to disassemble carefully, don't lose the spring and ball bearing that makes the slider swith 'notchy'!
Don’t worry, no one can afford to turn an electric blanket on these days!😂 Wise decision. I would never trust one, even straight of the box!
They are SO cheap to run, like a couple of pence for the night. They are also really quite safe these days, those thin wires would burn through and the blanket is made of fire retardant material these days as well. They are much safer than the old ones which didn't have the thermal fuse either.
Just a simple thermal fuse or resistor fails causes the whole thing to complety fail!
90 percent of all electric blankets and their controls are made (badly?) in China. And thousands of people are willing to put them on their beds and sleep under them. I am quite sure your repair would be just as safe as the device was when it left the Chinese factory. Still, I wouldn't be repairing them either, the liability is just too great. Send the damn things back to the manufacturer and make them responsible for the repair of an obviously badly designed control.
people are so scared of electric blankets.. just DON'T have it on while you're in bed and specially NOT while you're sleeping! pre-heat the bed before going to sleep and everything will be ok.. been using them for all my life, never had a problem if you use them wisely!..