When I was in HVAC school. My classmates were totally confused by this grid. For me never seeing onw before was easy for me. Then I showed the classmate next to me how to read the graph.
I love this! Could you do some content on the state of refrigerant throughout the system? Especially understanding what's going on with refrigerant when a system is under/over charged, a txv failed open/shut, poor compression, dirty condensers, restrictions etc.
Excellent video. For a homeowner, using a fieldpiece pocket psychrometer, where is the best place inside the home, to measure the indoor relative humidity percentage?
Also, there is some indoor humidity in the desert. The ambient humidity typically runs in the teens. Like you mentioned before, when that outside air is conditioned in the house, it shrinks, and the indoor relative humidity goes up.
So, leaving the math to one side, would it be correctly understood that a high outside air humidity effectively decreases, or slows down the ability of outside air to absorb heat from the building interior? What more or less design criteria would need to be considered for correcting (or replacing or upgrading performance of a given system) in order to meet normally unusual outside air conditions? For example, in a commercial fitness center application, would a temporary decrease in fresh air intake mixing to say, 10% be likely to help control to 71 or 72 degrees interior space? While 10% may work for an office application, fitness centers probably have a significantly higher set point, that a marginal system design simply is not able to meet, possibly resulting in unacceptable high energy consumption. It seems plausible in today’s high cost of energy, an interior thermostat adjustment to 3 or even 4 degrees may be temporarily be deemed necessary. Unfortunately, that may lead to occupant discomfort or even risk from overheating one or more occupants. That all stated, would appreciate any clarifications. Thanks.
I would say a dehumidifier could help ring that air out, but… There is unaccounted for heat that comes from a dehumidifier that has to be accounted for if you ever do a load calculation
if youve never been to Vegas,i mean what are your crudentials,i mean are you a southern boy, a midwestener,do ya have any experience out west? Im curious, good info though.
ok,so to recap,on a single stage rtu gas pak,if I take an enthalpy split across the evaporator w a 24 " temp probe, i can obtain the tonnage at work on a normal summer day in cool mode via enthalpy diff across the evap? well,im all ears.Its amazing how old hacks like me after 35 yrs,can lose reg techs who get intimidated when the co hires an old fart.
Very good stuff. Can you put the link the calculator you showed?
When I was in HVAC school. My classmates were totally confused by this grid. For me never seeing onw before was easy for me. Then I showed the classmate next to me how to read the graph.
I highly recommend more teaching on this topic.
I will
A lot of numbers, but overall a very good description of enthalpy the confusing thing all us HVAC people have to deal with
I love this! Could you do some content on the state of refrigerant throughout the system? Especially understanding what's going on with refrigerant when a system is under/over charged, a txv failed open/shut, poor compression, dirty condensers, restrictions etc.
Awesome, thank you I understand enthalpy related to HVAC
Excellent video. For a homeowner, using a fieldpiece pocket psychrometer, where is the best place inside the home, to measure the indoor relative humidity percentage?
I would do it at the return grill.
@@HVACShopTalk thanks
Hello can you please share the link to the calculator your using .
Do you have any reference material that you recommend for this math? I'd like to read more about where that 4.5 constant comes from.
Also, there is some indoor humidity in the desert. The ambient humidity typically runs in the teens. Like you mentioned before, when that outside air is conditioned in the house, it shrinks, and the indoor relative humidity goes up.
So, leaving the math to one side, would it be correctly understood that a high outside air humidity effectively decreases, or slows down the ability of outside air to absorb heat from the building interior? What more or less design criteria would need to be considered for correcting (or replacing or upgrading performance of a given system) in order to meet normally unusual outside air conditions? For example, in a commercial fitness center application, would a temporary decrease in fresh air intake mixing to say, 10% be likely to help control to 71 or 72 degrees interior space? While 10% may work for an office application, fitness centers probably have a significantly higher set point, that a marginal system design simply is not able to meet, possibly resulting in unacceptable high energy consumption. It seems plausible in today’s high cost of energy, an interior thermostat adjustment to 3 or even 4 degrees may be temporarily be deemed necessary. Unfortunately, that may lead to occupant discomfort or even risk from overheating one or more occupants. That all stated, would appreciate any clarifications. Thanks.
I would say a dehumidifier could help ring that air out, but… There is unaccounted for heat that comes from a dehumidifier that has to be accounted for if you ever do a load calculation
if youve never been to Vegas,i mean what are your crudentials,i mean are you a southern boy, a midwestener,do ya have any experience out west? Im curious, good info though.
ok,so to recap,on a single stage rtu gas pak,if I take an enthalpy split across the evaporator w a 24 " temp probe, i can obtain the tonnage at work on a normal summer day in cool mode via enthalpy diff across the evap? well,im all ears.Its amazing how old hacks like me after 35 yrs,can lose reg techs who get intimidated when the co hires an old fart.