Also, as someone who absolutely abhors the heat, I’m feeling very jealous of the whole winter thing. Luckily, it’s actually a really nice temperature right now. It’s about 18C which is practically a (almost) Christmas miracle. Last week however... it was rough. 95% humidity and 35C. It was awful! And I hate the heat. But even more than the heat, I hate the combo of heat and humidity. I LOVE the cold. Unfortunately, where I live, winter doesn’t really exist. And I’ve never seen snow, not once in my (two days short of) 33 years. Which makes me sad, because I think I’d enjoy it. I did use to live where a winter existed (it would get down to about minus 6C at home), but our winter was very dry, so no snow, even if it did get cold enough. I miss that. I miss the autumn days where it would be low 20s and very foggy all day. I miss the days where the cold felt like it was slapping you in the cheeks. I miss the summer- because even if it did technically get hotter than where I am now, it was never humid. Much easier to live with. But I moved to Brisbane, because the disability services are better, and it’s where my best friend and her family live, and I need to be close to family (chosen family though it may be). And so I put up with the atrocious weather (I can’t believe that tourists come here because of our “amazing!” weather. I hate it so much), and the sky high aircon bills in the summer. If I weren’t disabled, I’d move to Mew Zealand. Or Scotland. Maybe even Canada. (Those are my top three countries of choice). But alas, in Brisbane I shall stay. Even though it means my really pretty camel coloured and faux fur trimmed cape only gets worn once or twice a year. Sigh. Edit- it’s now past midnight, so technically I’m only one day short of 33 years now. Yay.
You know... sometimes I don’t know what a video is going to be when I start sewing the project - then I’ll just keep coming across the same phrases or ideas and I’ll think to myself: if I’m thinking about this, surely other people think about it? Let’s find out what that’s all about! It’s a lot of fun to go on those deep dives.
“Finish in the usual way” goes to the heart of the greatest challenge in writing an historical novel. One line in the video jumped out at me - “Can you give my car a jump?” We understand those words. But somebody not of this current century would not. How do you have a character deliver a line like that in a way your reader might have a clue as to what is meant? How do you explain what a car is - how do you explain what jumping is? Lots of technology needing to be explained. And explained in a way that doesn’t feel like a lecture happening.
@@P0nyl0ve Extreme cold causes your car battery to discharge. If the car has been sitting outside for an extended period without being run - it won’t turn over because there’s no electricity left in the battery. Hopefully someone will come by with a running car and you can connect a cable from their battery to yours and “jump“ start your engine which will then recharge the battery.
A good way to stretch your brain in that direction is to learn different languages and talk to native speakers. It gives you opportunities to explain things like what ‘don’t be a stranger’ means and why on earth you might have a ‘kids table’ for an American holiday. That’s what lets you practice stretching your context.
@@heidikindon5182 I was listening to a native German speaker speaking English in a video recently and she used the word “thingy”. I realized that’s a word you would never learn in a formal language learning context. So I asked her where she picked it up? She said watching movies and TV. I asked her what would be the German of that since although I speak a little German I don’t know that much slang. Dingsbums. Hahaha!
When I started to quilt, the final phrase of the pattern was almost always "Quilt as desired." Yes, but HOW do I quilt "as desired"? There seemed to be an assumption that if you were a quilter, you only needed the pattern to piece the top together and of course you'd know how to finish. As usual, indeed.
*One* - I need those gators and fingerless gloves. Thankfully the public library is cooperating and the American Duchess book is waiting for me on Monday. Yay. *Two* - I have been working my way towards the Foundations Revealed competition since the beginning of the year. It's what's been guiding my steps through YT U - finding out what techniques are actually called and then actually learning the techniques. The game. She is afoot. Now all I have to do is finish drafting my bodice block. Because I'm teaching myself from scratch, no patterns. Because I'm apparently a maniac. Le sigh.. Typing as a double-F, I knew it would take a while. Just didn't know it would take more than 9 drafts... I will not be distracted by sewing a black pirate shirt for myself,... or a pilgrim's bag for my husband,... or teaching our 14 year old Goddaughter how to sew her first pirate, ah-hem, 18th c men's shirt... Do the thing, yeah, sure, absolutely,... problem being - I want to do All The Things... *Three* - All the absolute very best for you and your partner (and your little dog too). I hope the season is calm and restful and everything ya'll need it to be. And may 2021 be Thee Most Boring Year in all of our collective lives. Amen. (pssst, past the butter...). Seriously. All the best, Woman. See you around the universe... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
I LOVE that you tackled "Finish in the Usual Way!" It's like Roman Concrete -- it is so hard and just gets harder! What are we doing wrong?!??! Sea water. We've been using fresh water (why would you do that? That stuff is for drinking, don't waste it!) and they used salty old sea water -- it makes all the difference. Never wrote THAT down --- why would they? Everyone knows, DUH! So, I'm thinking of doing the competition. My story (allegedly) takes place in the Medieval era, and the first reference to clothes is "He would see a puff of airy sleeve" ! Down the rabbithole of Medieval art I go! All the medieval sleeves I've ever seen do NOt puff and are Not airy!! So, since Cathy announced the competition, I have been doing research. Stay warm!
We’re so used to concrete reinforced with iron, so the idea of using seawater doesn’t occur to people because it would be a _terrible_ idea in modern concrete with rebar. Same goes for using shell sand in concrete: it would be an excellent choice in Roman concrete, but not in modern construction. How do I know this? Well, someone _did_ use shell sand when constructing the walls of a school building in my village around 1970, and when the time came to remodel it 35 years after it was finished, the rebar had crumbled, making it impossible to remove any sections of the walls (as was the plan) without the whole building collapsing.
“Fancy cozy” is basically what I got from making the Poiret cocoon coat pattern in a pretty floral fleece I got at Joann. I have described it as “wearable blanket, but make it fashion”.
Looking at the red petticoat makes me think of the railway children! A great example of that kind of knowledge that seems so commonplace no one who ever define is in recipes. When I read a recipe for cake it might read 'eggs, plain flour, butter, granulated sugar etc.' I know that the eggs in question are most likely chicken eggs, usually large ones. If I need to swap the eggs for medium ones, depending on how many there are, I might add an extra one. I know that plain flour refers to a particular type of wheat flour. I know that even if I need to make an adjustment to make it gluten free, it is better to search for a specifically gluten free recipe than just making the swap. I know some gluten free flours (ones with chickpea flour) can add a weird shellfishy taste, and I shouldn't use them in a dessert. I know butter mean butter derived from the milk of a cow, and I know what a cow is. I know that a stick of butter is an american thing, and the recipe doesn't want me to put what looks like a stick of butter here sold in whole pound blocks in. I know sugar is derived mostly from sugarcane and sugarbeet, and most white sugar available in shops is close enough to granulated that it makes no odds whether or not they put granulated on the packet. I know what a measuring cup is, and and I keep a little chart of conversions handy because sometimes weighing things is easier. And it's the same with Roman concrete!
Yes please to a video on dress reform! Cozy-fancy is officially my dream aesthetic. The Kyoto Institute has an 1860s wrapper that I drool over and am working towards recreating someday. And I've decided that gaiters are making a comeback. They are the perfect alternative to winter weight tights to wear with dresses. Tights are the bane of my existence: they never fit right, are expensive and usually rip after no more than two uses. But 24 buttons are too many, so alternative fasteners are a must.
Fun Fact! I wore spats every weekend in college because they were a part of my marching band uniform ! Band uniforms are an interesting mish-mash of military/historical/modern clothing types. But, I can confirm spats are wonderful to wear, and people are still wearing them 🥰🥰🥰
A) you need another layer for covering your elbows because just seeing armskin peeking out made me feel cold. B) The usual way in Canada in the winter: 💜😆💜 C) I find myself coveting a union suit now! Looks super cute!! Maybe you can use a couple of neckline darts to close that gap? And lastly) thank you, as always, for your lovely content.
Revisiting this video a year later feels so nice. "The usual way" isn't scary at all anymore. It gives me confidence that I have that instinct to give things the finish they need.
your bit at the end about how all these things we love to marvel at being in the background made me so emotional! idk what it is , but the security of knowing that people have always been people and always will makes me warm inside!! we live and make do and we always have and always will!
Red flannel was considered to be a warmer colour to wear, going back hundreds of years. Also, in some countries it was thought to be protective. Lovely video.
I love your way of narrating your sewing! I think that with the wool jumsuit-thingy, you will want to add snaps to the crotch or a butt flap. Imagine needing to take off every stitch before you can go to the bathroom. And what if you need to do it in a cramped public bathroom cubicle. Anyway, thanks for the pattern suggestion for the spats. I think I need to add them to my winter wardrobe! Although, I don’t usually have a problem keeping warm outside, it’s more like how not to overhear inside our home that is super warm. Perhaps I’ve finally found a way to save energy in the heating!
Gosh that union suit looks cosy!I wonder if you will want a butt flap at some point added. I finished my cloak and need some kind of warm petticoat next. Thanks for the inspiiration!
I've recently moved in to a house with a landlady who wants us to wear indoor shoes... perfect timing for a video with slipper inspiration! Survive death machines on the highway... in the usual way. Access a digital information super-forum... in the usual way. Receive nearly any product your heart desires by ordering it over that super information forum... in the usual way. Attach yourself to the nation wide networks of water, electricity, and gas, and pay for them... in the usual way. Stay up until all hours of the night playing games without realizing the sun has come up... That was the usual way back then, too!
Loved this! I would also love to make a union suit. Id like the one that goes to the elbow and knee. I want there to be woolies for under my 1940’s clothing.
The lounge gown is gorgeous! Wow, you look like a queen. Absolutely love it! You've given me an idea for a history-bounding spats/legwarmers mashup, too. Just love this video in general. I, also, hate stuff up around my neck!
Seeing a Dracula cover while hearing about a character costume contest feels like the nerdy goth version of a siren song. I *know* I won't have the energy to do it and yet... Also I love the swooshy cape. A+ swooshes
So I stumbled on this Women's Art Association of Canada. They were created by an act of Parliament back in the 1880's. There seems to be an archive kept with the Toronto archive (I have No Idea if they have any extant examples from the turn of the last century... but a girl can hope). Take a wander over to their Board of Governor's page... The WAAC has student membership fees. Because I'm looking at going back to school for my Masters in Art History for dress history. Probably specializing in the 1910's. I've probably mentioned the 1915 Singer hand-crank by now. I got my entry in. It was fun. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Fancy cosy aesthetic! Yes! I spend a lot of time in bed or at home due to chronic illness and what I'm wearing does have an impact on my mood! I endeavour to make a collection of equally fancy and cosy garments to feel more myself even when I'm not feeling well- thank you for the inspiration 🥰
In Norway, spats were in fashion as ski wear up until resently. As sportswear, they are typically looser fitting, with an elastic or ties under the knee, and often some elastic around the ankle. They fasten to the shoe with a hook in front that goes on the shoe tie and an elastic or tie under the shoe. They are the best at keeping the snow out of the top of your boots and the bottom of your pants, and I have been known to use mine also when walking in deep snow. For a proper romantic, old timey, instagramable skiing outfit you need red or navy spats, dark, knee length, loose fitting pants and a knitted sweater, preferably "lusekofte". Resently they are seen as old fashioned and not sporty enough, and have fallen out of fashion. Modern ski thights and pants sometimes features an elastic and a hook to avoid unwanted snow.
I know the neckline issue probably needs to be addressed as a drafting issue, but for the garments you've already made, I think a couple darts in the neckline could fix the problem.
I love all of your “fancy-cozy” winter wear! I also have long wished for a union suit, and though I DO knit, the prospect of knitting, essentially, a full-body sweater/jumper is quite daunting. While it’s somewhat rare in antique knitting patterns, most modern patterns have a schematic of dimensions for each piece included. I’ve found a few vintage patterns out on the Internet that have been translated into modern instructions and have schematics added. I’ve been able to draft patterns for sewing from those schematic illustrations. Definitely look through knitting patterns to see if they have an illustration of each pattern piece with measurements...you’ll likely need to add around 1cm seam allowance, and the “usual finishes” to neck, cuffs, hems, etc., as they are created and finished as you knit. Hope that helps? I’m Metatrongirl on Instagram, also, so feel free to DM with questions. Much love!
I think I'm a bit lucky in that books on patterning in Russia converted from the proprietary measures to cm, but with the same pattern charting. They also tend to explain "the usual way" in the beginner books. Now if I only actually read more of the ones I have.... oops. The outfits you made look amazing and cozy! As for the competition, entry already submitted! :D
I went and got the pattern for the gaiters. I live in the desert. It barely rains here. It doesn't get cold. But I need these gaiters. Oh well. At least the pattern is free and I have 10 months to get them done. I realize you are in Canada, but a summer version of this would be great!
Regarding those rulers, I have fallen down that rabbit hole which lead me to garmet drafting systems which is another rabbit hole within itself. Rewarding, interesting but oh so frustrating..
Oh I definitely need those slippers, they look perfect. I have always hated modern slippers, being a shoes until the moment I go to bed person. My compromise is normally wearing old ballet shoes previously worn for regency events as slippers.
Fancy cozy is definitely part of my aesthetic ! Current project will be integrated into my FR contest entry, I am impatient as well to see what everyone creates !
This was so lovely to watch. I enjoyed seeing you bring the old magazines and patterns into these garments, as well as the wonderful discussion on the usual way!
Awesome Job!!!! I love the Repurposing of the curtains. Gone with the wind has nothing on us! I wasn’t sure if the buttons on the union suit went all the way through the crotch. Or if you left them open/ not sewn like a pair of combinations
The buttons only go down to about my belly button. Lots of my references had buttons going all the way down, but since the fabric stretches nicely and I didn't want to do any more work than necessary I just followed the button pattern from the original cardigan pattern and that worked just fine.
Amazing! Great messaging! Lovely projects! But if you keep coming up with 37 videos you need to make per video you'll never stop! ...I take it back! Keep coming up with ideas :)
Because how on Earth do you survive this much cold during the floofy drape of the Regency period without central heating... obviously they did because we're still here. But that's allot of petticoats - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown...
The ever maddening in the usual way. Shorthand for information you should already posses to understand this textbook. I love the deep dives into the material. Please do more. I al alas of a shy retiring never going to put anything I’ve worked on up anywhere unless i don’t care because it was silly and I’m not attached to other peoples impressions. But I enjoy the fruits of others labor and must go now and find that spats pattern because spats are amazing
You have a wonderful way of making garments feel like stories throughout the whole video. It's so refreshing to watch and listen to, and I get to learn something along the way!
The reason you couldn't find patterns for a union suit is that you need to be searching for long johns patterns! For some odd reason, people associate the words "union suit" now with silly onesies, like one someone might wear on Halloween. And what I think of when I see an actual union suit is long johns.
You’re sweet to suggest that. Long johns are generally referring to the two-piece long underwear unless you say “one-piece long johns” and even that didn’t turn up any historical patterns or any other promising results.
New subscriber here. Oh! How I love your perspective...your presentation...your spunk! I'll be watching for more with great anticipation. By the way...I'm a newbie to Historical Sewing, as well. Gathering supplies and materials for my first outfit. I'm thinking to begin this journey in Colonial America...and work my way forward. Yes, I know how to knit so I'll be knitting my own stockings. This is gonna take awhile! lol But that's ok. Also, I'll be making leather stays because I'm focusing on the "Everyday Woman" in my journey. In those days, it was "the usual way" for the "lower class" ladies to choose leather over fabric stays because leather was cheaper and more readily available, as far as I can tell from research. ...unless one was blessed enough to have a "well-to-do" benefactress who might donate her old undergarments to charity. Charity was also "the usual way" for those more well-to-do. Thank you for this video! Your look through the lens of history has been most helpful!
i adore this!!! your analyses of concepts (scope creep, 'in the usual way' etc) are always wonderful to listen to, and your work is so beautiful! honestly i love that wrapper dress so much
This was really awesome. I liked your thought on the "usual way" and winter clothing is always fun to see. Yes, "fancy cozy" sounds like a great style!
Last week was definitely chilly. Glad it's warmed up this one. I love the fancy cozy vibe. I can definitely get behind that. Love the gaiters, they look wonderful in red. Thanks so much for sharing your projects and philosophy with us. Take care.
This was a fabulous video, with a great voice over, and as an Australian preparing for yet another dreadfully hot Summer, thank you for all the snowy goodness!
Surprised about the lack of wool. Here in Norway wool is king for all things winter. You might have made the choices because of availability, but I was just wondering if there were other reasons.
You're 100% correct. The gloves are wool, and the cloak is a wool blend. The other stuff, you're right, is based on availability. wool is pretty expensive here for the 100% stuff, and even then, the cheaper it is, the coarser and more for "outer wear" it is. And I was trying to challenge myself to buy as little as possible. I'm all for wool in the future!
The usual way is a problem with all historical books. If you look at old cook books a lot of the recipes are a list of ingredients and a reference to temp. If you find some that are pre standard measurements you will find things like butter about the size of a small egg. We definitely need to bring back spats/gaters!!
Cooking and baking are also about proportions as sewing and knitting are. I didn’t realize that those proportions could be learned and transferred from recipe to recipe until a baker friend of mine commented about my son baking cookies all the time.
What a lovely meditation on “finish in the usual way”! I also enjoyed the thought process behind the historybounding pieces and seeing them come together. This is the first video of yours that I’ve seen, and I’m now a subscriber!
Enjoyed this video, it was really thought provoking and now I’m thinking I need to look up some of those home sewing guides, maybe they’d be more helpful than the tailor’s manuals that while I understand better now are still beyond my current knowledge. I do feel a bit assured in my decision to make my long johns off a existing set I ordered now tho cause I ran into the same issue with trying to find one and I really need some before it gets cold here.
You asked this question four months ago but it got buried in my notifications. Now that the weather is warming up again I will say that I didn't use the muff as much as I would have liked because with the Great Unpleasantness I don't go outside much unless I have the dog with me. But all the other items really helped in the cold weather! I used them interchangeably with my modern winter wear based on my outfits and where I was going to be. It was awesome and I never noticed a difference as long as I was being mindful of my needs that day.
Amazing video as always! It was so much fun watching you show off your full winter garb in the snow :D I'm actually going to participate in the FR 2021 competition and I'm so excited/nervous! I'm a total beginner who, like a lot of people, started sewing during lockdown. I don't have a sewing machine so I started working on my mockup a few weeks back to make sure I leave myself enough time to finish my project before the deadline!
Your clothing pieces turned out wonderfully. Thank you for sharing the free pattern for gaiters and for talking about the competition. I had never heard of the competition until your video and am very excited to participate now.
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I’m giving this video a thumbs up because that’s how we finish in the usual way ❤️
What a sweet thing to say!
I didn’t know that I needed a philosophical treatise on “finish in the usual way”
I was wrong. I very badly needed it. Thank you.
Also, as someone who absolutely abhors the heat, I’m feeling very jealous of the whole winter thing. Luckily, it’s actually a really nice temperature right now. It’s about 18C which is practically a (almost) Christmas miracle. Last week however... it was rough.
95% humidity and 35C. It was awful! And I hate the heat. But even more than the heat, I hate the combo of heat and humidity. I LOVE the cold. Unfortunately, where I live, winter doesn’t really exist. And I’ve never seen snow, not once in my (two days short of) 33 years. Which makes me sad, because I think I’d enjoy it.
I did use to live where a winter existed (it would get down to about minus 6C at home), but our winter was very dry, so no snow, even if it did get cold enough. I miss that. I miss the autumn days where it would be low 20s and very foggy all day. I miss the days where the cold felt like it was slapping you in the cheeks. I miss the summer- because even if it did technically get hotter than where I am now, it was never humid. Much easier to live with.
But I moved to Brisbane, because the disability services are better, and it’s where my best friend and her family live, and I need to be close to family (chosen family though it may be). And so I put up with the atrocious weather (I can’t believe that tourists come here because of our “amazing!” weather. I hate it so much), and the sky high aircon bills in the summer.
If I weren’t disabled, I’d move to Mew Zealand. Or Scotland. Maybe even Canada. (Those are my top three countries of choice). But alas, in Brisbane I shall stay. Even though it means my really pretty camel coloured and faux fur trimmed cape only gets worn once or twice a year.
Sigh.
Edit- it’s now past midnight, so technically I’m only one day short of 33 years now. Yay.
You know... sometimes I don’t know what a video is going to be when I start sewing the project - then I’ll just keep coming across the same phrases or ideas and I’ll think to myself: if I’m thinking about this, surely other people think about it? Let’s find out what that’s all about!
It’s a lot of fun to go on those deep dives.
@@LizCapism Zeitgeist moments can be some of the very best ones...
Happy birthday, Scotland is damp and grey in winter, as is Cornwall, but it's your dream so I'll say no more.
@@lesleyharris525 it’s currently very damp and grey here, and it’s just so, so wonderful. It’s like a birthday present.
Also, thank you. 😊
“It’s like reading Shakespeare, while being a little bit drunk” -oh, how I can relate 🤣
“Finish in the usual way” goes to the heart of the greatest challenge in writing an historical novel. One line in the video jumped out at me - “Can you give my car a jump?” We understand those words. But somebody not of this current century would not. How do you have a character deliver a line like that in a way your reader might have a clue as to what is meant? How do you explain what a car is - how do you explain what jumping is? Lots of technology needing to be explained. And explained in a way that doesn’t feel like a lecture happening.
I'm not an native English speaker, now I'm curious what it means?
@@P0nyl0ve Extreme cold causes your car battery to discharge. If the car has been sitting outside for an extended period without being run - it won’t turn over because there’s no electricity left in the battery. Hopefully someone will come by with a running car and you can connect a cable from their battery to yours and “jump“ start your engine which will then recharge the battery.
A good way to stretch your brain in that direction is to learn different languages and talk to native speakers. It gives you opportunities to explain things like what ‘don’t be a stranger’ means and why on earth you might have a ‘kids table’ for an American holiday. That’s what lets you practice stretching your context.
@@heidikindon5182 I was listening to a native German speaker speaking English in a video recently and she used the word “thingy”. I realized that’s a word you would never learn in a formal language learning context. So I asked her where she picked it up? She said watching movies and TV. I asked her what would be the German of that since although I speak a little German I don’t know that much slang. Dingsbums. Hahaha!
“Fancy-cozy” is the best sort of aesthetic. Thank you for sharing this winter sewing adventure. A wrapper might have to be on my to sew list.
I can imagine a butt flap on the union suit might come in handy to rescue from a very cold and tricky situation! haha
2020 has been the year that I realized how much I want to be fancy and cozy and how much this aesthetic is utterly lacking in my life.
When I started to quilt, the final phrase of the pattern was almost always "Quilt as desired." Yes, but HOW do I quilt "as desired"? There seemed to be an assumption that if you were a quilter, you only needed the pattern to piece the top together and of course you'd know how to finish. As usual, indeed.
*One* - I need those gators and fingerless gloves. Thankfully the public library is cooperating and the American Duchess book is waiting for me on Monday. Yay.
*Two* - I have been working my way towards the Foundations Revealed competition since the beginning of the year. It's what's been guiding my steps through YT U - finding out what techniques are actually called and then actually learning the techniques. The game. She is afoot.
Now all I have to do is finish drafting my bodice block. Because I'm teaching myself from scratch, no patterns. Because I'm apparently a maniac. Le sigh.. Typing as a double-F, I knew it would take a while. Just didn't know it would take more than 9 drafts...
I will not be distracted by sewing a black pirate shirt for myself,... or a pilgrim's bag for my husband,... or teaching our 14 year old Goddaughter how to sew her first pirate, ah-hem, 18th c men's shirt...
Do the thing, yeah, sure, absolutely,... problem being - I want to do All The Things...
*Three* - All the absolute very best for you and your partner (and your little dog too). I hope the season is calm and restful and everything ya'll need it to be.
And may 2021 be Thee Most Boring Year in all of our collective lives.
Amen. (pssst, past the butter...).
Seriously. All the best, Woman. See you around the universe...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
I LOVE that you tackled "Finish in the Usual Way!" It's like Roman Concrete -- it is so hard and just gets harder! What are we doing wrong?!??! Sea water. We've been using fresh water (why would you do that? That stuff is for drinking, don't waste it!) and they used salty old sea water -- it makes all the difference. Never wrote THAT down --- why would they? Everyone knows, DUH! So, I'm thinking of doing the competition. My story (allegedly) takes place in the Medieval era, and the first reference to clothes is "He would see a puff of airy sleeve" ! Down the rabbithole of Medieval art I go! All the medieval sleeves I've ever seen do NOt puff and are Not airy!! So, since Cathy announced the competition, I have been doing research. Stay warm!
We’re so used to concrete reinforced with iron, so the idea of using seawater doesn’t occur to people because it would be a _terrible_ idea in modern concrete with rebar. Same goes for using shell sand in concrete: it would be an excellent choice in Roman concrete, but not in modern construction. How do I know this? Well, someone _did_ use shell sand when constructing the walls of a school building in my village around 1970, and when the time came to remodel it 35 years after it was finished, the rebar had crumbled, making it impossible to remove any sections of the walls (as was the plan) without the whole building collapsing.
If you need an airy garment to refer to in your story, there’s always the veil.
@@ragnkja Ah, yes, that reminds me, I will need head coverings, too.
“Fancy cozy” is basically what I got from making the Poiret cocoon coat pattern in a pretty floral fleece I got at Joann. I have described it as “wearable blanket, but make it fashion”.
"It's a bit like reading Shakespeare while a little bit drunk..l but at least it's in English now" 😂😂😂
Looking at the red petticoat makes me think of the railway children!
A great example of that kind of knowledge that seems so commonplace no one who ever define is in recipes. When I read a recipe for cake it might read 'eggs, plain flour, butter, granulated sugar etc.' I know that the eggs in question are most likely chicken eggs, usually large ones. If I need to swap the eggs for medium ones, depending on how many there are, I might add an extra one. I know that plain flour refers to a particular type of wheat flour. I know that even if I need to make an adjustment to make it gluten free, it is better to search for a specifically gluten free recipe than just making the swap. I know some gluten free flours (ones with chickpea flour) can add a weird shellfishy taste, and I shouldn't use them in a dessert. I know butter mean butter derived from the milk of a cow, and I know what a cow is. I know that a stick of butter is an american thing, and the recipe doesn't want me to put what looks like a stick of butter here sold in whole pound blocks in. I know sugar is derived mostly from sugarcane and sugarbeet, and most white sugar available in shops is close enough to granulated that it makes no odds whether or not they put granulated on the packet. I know what a measuring cup is, and and I keep a little chart of conversions handy because sometimes weighing things is easier.
And it's the same with Roman concrete!
Yes please to a video on dress reform!
Cozy-fancy is officially my dream aesthetic. The Kyoto Institute has an 1860s wrapper that I drool over and am working towards recreating someday.
And I've decided that gaiters are making a comeback. They are the perfect alternative to winter weight tights to wear with dresses. Tights are the bane of my existence: they never fit right, are expensive and usually rip after no more than two uses. But 24 buttons are too many, so alternative fasteners are a must.
Fun Fact! I wore spats every weekend in college because they were a part of my marching band uniform ! Band uniforms are an interesting mish-mash of military/historical/modern clothing types. But, I can confirm spats are wonderful to wear, and people are still wearing them 🥰🥰🥰
Very cozy video to watch during our first legit snow in 2 years. Now to go work on my flannel petticoat.
Have fun!
A) you need another layer for covering your elbows because just seeing armskin peeking out made me feel cold.
B) The usual way in Canada in the winter: 💜😆💜
C) I find myself coveting a union suit now! Looks super cute!! Maybe you can use a couple of neckline darts to close that gap?
And lastly) thank you, as always, for your lovely content.
Revisiting this video a year later feels so nice. "The usual way" isn't scary at all anymore. It gives me confidence that I have that instinct to give things the finish they need.
You might have heard of dr. Frankenstein...
You may love dr. Frank-n-Furter...
Now get ready to dr. Frank-n-Pattern!
Your content is among some of my very very favorite on UA-cam these days. Thanks so much for sharing with us ❤️
Oh man, as someone who was in Marching Band, those spats gave me a visceral feeling of dread lol
oh, fabric swishing bliss. Best modeling of union suit (and any clothing item) in the history of the world. Happy dance! 😊
Just watching this and love watching the journey, I have been contemplating a tea gown for some time
your bit at the end about how all these things we love to marvel at being in the background made me so emotional! idk what it is , but the security of knowing that people have always been people and always will makes me warm inside!! we live and make do and we always have and always will!
Red flannel was considered to be a warmer colour to wear, going back hundreds of years. Also, in some countries it was thought to be protective. Lovely video.
Great fact!
I’m grateful that the Usual Way includes spending time with you here on UA-cam! Thank you for sharing this with us!
Well done Liz. I ancestors knew what they were about keeping warm in this Canadian climate.
I love your way of narrating your sewing! I think that with the wool jumsuit-thingy, you will want to add snaps to the crotch or a butt flap. Imagine needing to take off every stitch before you can go to the bathroom. And what if you need to do it in a cramped public bathroom cubicle. Anyway, thanks for the pattern suggestion for the spats. I think I need to add them to my winter wardrobe! Although, I don’t usually have a problem keeping warm outside, it’s more like how not to overhear inside our home that is super warm. Perhaps I’ve finally found a way to save energy in the heating!
Thank you for such a wonderful video. I had to watch twice just so I could make sure I caught everything. From a fellow Canadian, thank you .
You are so welcome!
The juxtaposition of the poetic, precise language with Iliza in the background of the spats took me out
I didn't realize that you had a full sleeve on one arm. It's super cool to see tattooed historical makers!
Gosh that union suit looks cosy!I wonder if you will want a butt flap at some point added. I finished my cloak and need some kind of warm petticoat next. Thanks for the inspiiration!
A butt flap is nice. I loved my union suit.
I've recently moved in to a house with a landlady who wants us to wear indoor shoes... perfect timing for a video with slipper inspiration!
Survive death machines on the highway... in the usual way. Access a digital information super-forum... in the usual way. Receive nearly any product your heart desires by ordering it over that super information forum... in the usual way. Attach yourself to the nation wide networks of water, electricity, and gas, and pay for them... in the usual way.
Stay up until all hours of the night playing games without realizing the sun has come up... That was the usual way back then, too!
Loved this! I would also love to make a union suit. Id like the one that goes to the elbow and knee. I want there to be woolies for under my 1940’s clothing.
The lounge gown is gorgeous! Wow, you look like a queen. Absolutely love it! You've given me an idea for a history-bounding spats/legwarmers mashup, too. Just love this video in general. I, also, hate stuff up around my neck!
I used to wear spats in my old pipe band. I HIGHLY suggest darker colours because they're a PAIN to keep clean!😂
No doubt! Good tip. :D
Seeing a Dracula cover while hearing about a character costume contest feels like the nerdy goth version of a siren song. I *know* I won't have the energy to do it and yet...
Also I love the swooshy cape. A+ swooshes
So I stumbled on this Women's Art Association of Canada. They were created by an act of Parliament back in the 1880's. There seems to be an archive kept with the Toronto archive (I have No Idea if they have any extant examples from the turn of the last century... but a girl can hope). Take a wander over to their Board of Governor's page...
The WAAC has student membership fees. Because I'm looking at going back to school for my Masters in Art History for dress history. Probably specializing in the 1910's. I've probably mentioned the 1915 Singer hand-crank by now.
I got my entry in. It was fun.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
I like the slippers. I think trimming a pair with fur would be super lovely.
By eerie coincidence (or perhaps the sentience of youtube) but I was just googling C19 spat patterns....
Fancy cosy aesthetic! Yes! I spend a lot of time in bed or at home due to chronic illness and what I'm wearing does have an impact on my mood! I endeavour to make a collection of equally fancy and cosy garments to feel more myself even when I'm not feeling well- thank you for the inspiration 🥰
In Norway, spats were in fashion as ski wear up until resently. As sportswear, they are typically looser fitting, with an elastic or ties under the knee, and often some elastic around the ankle. They fasten to the shoe with a hook in front that goes on the shoe tie and an elastic or tie under the shoe. They are the best at keeping the snow out of the top of your boots and the bottom of your pants, and I have been known to use mine also when walking in deep snow.
For a proper romantic, old timey, instagramable skiing outfit you need red or navy spats, dark, knee length, loose fitting pants and a knitted sweater, preferably "lusekofte".
Resently they are seen as old fashioned and not sporty enough, and have fallen out of fashion. Modern ski thights and pants sometimes features an elastic and a hook to avoid unwanted snow.
Finish in the usual way always makes me think of the Schitt's Creek "You fold it in!" scene! Haha!
I know the neckline issue probably needs to be addressed as a drafting issue, but for the garments you've already made, I think a couple darts in the neckline could fix the problem.
I love all of your “fancy-cozy” winter wear! I also have long wished for a union suit, and though I DO knit, the prospect of knitting, essentially, a full-body sweater/jumper is quite daunting. While it’s somewhat rare in antique knitting patterns, most modern patterns have a schematic of dimensions for each piece included. I’ve found a few vintage patterns out on the Internet that have been translated into modern instructions and have schematics added. I’ve been able to draft patterns for sewing from those schematic illustrations. Definitely look through knitting patterns to see if they have an illustration of each pattern piece with measurements...you’ll likely need to add around 1cm seam allowance, and the “usual finishes” to neck, cuffs, hems, etc., as they are created and finished as you knit. Hope that helps? I’m Metatrongirl on Instagram, also, so feel free to DM with questions. Much love!
I think I'm a bit lucky in that books on patterning in Russia converted from the proprietary measures to cm, but with the same pattern charting. They also tend to explain "the usual way" in the beginner books. Now if I only actually read more of the ones I have.... oops.
The outfits you made look amazing and cozy!
As for the competition, entry already submitted! :D
I went and got the pattern for the gaiters. I live in the desert. It barely rains here. It doesn't get cold. But I need these gaiters. Oh well. At least the pattern is free and I have 10 months to get them done.
I realize you are in Canada, but a summer version of this would be great!
Putting it on my list!
Regarding those rulers, I have fallen down that rabbit hole which lead me to garmet drafting systems which is another rabbit hole within itself. Rewarding, interesting but oh so frustrating..
Fancy cosy aesthetic! Yes please I need this in my life 😁
Your spats gave me an idea for some scrap flannel shin guards to wear under my pants that might save me the curse of frozen lower legs.
awh your tie-in at the end warmed my frosty midwinter Minnesotan heart 💜 edit: the first "ending";]
That wrapper looks fantastic :)
Thanks! It's very cozy.
Oh I definitely need those slippers, they look perfect. I have always hated modern slippers, being a shoes until the moment I go to bed person. My compromise is normally wearing old ballet shoes previously worn for regency events as slippers.
You and me both!
fancy cozy is also my true aesthetic
This was great THANKS!! Now I want a housecoat though lol
I got so excited when I saw this pop up!
Me too!!
Fancy cozy is definitely part of my aesthetic !
Current project will be integrated into my FR contest entry, I am impatient as well to see what everyone creates !
This was so lovely to watch. I enjoyed seeing you bring the old magazines and patterns into these garments, as well as the wonderful discussion on the usual way!
I've just found your channel and I have to say it's entirely bingeable and makes me exceedingly happy to have as a companion to my crafting!
Welcome aboard! I'm so glad you're enjoying it.
Awesome Job!!!! I love the Repurposing of the curtains. Gone with the wind has nothing on us! I wasn’t sure if the buttons on the union suit went all the way through the crotch. Or if you left them open/ not sewn like a pair of combinations
The buttons only go down to about my belly button. Lots of my references had buttons going all the way down, but since the fabric stretches nicely and I didn't want to do any more work than necessary I just followed the button pattern from the original cardigan pattern and that worked just fine.
Amazing! Great messaging! Lovely projects! But if you keep coming up with 37 videos you need to make per video you'll never stop! ...I take it back! Keep coming up with ideas :)
Thank you very much for this video .
From a fellow Canadian ( Quebec) I understand the cold! I do wonder how they survived the cold winters.
Because how on Earth do you survive this much cold during the floofy drape of the Regency period without central heating... obviously they did because we're still here. But that's allot of petticoats
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown...
The ever maddening in the usual way. Shorthand for information you should already posses to understand this textbook. I love the deep dives into the material. Please do more. I al alas of a shy retiring never going to put anything I’ve worked on up anywhere unless i don’t care because it was silly and I’m not attached to other peoples impressions. But I enjoy the fruits of others labor and must go now and find that spats pattern because spats are amazing
0:10 intro and starting thoughts
5:12 red flannel petticoat
7:22 wrapper(/tea gown/house dress/dressing gown)
12:05 leggings/spats/gaiters
15:08 slippers
16:47 a union suit(/combinations/woolly combinations/one piece long underwear)
20:40 finishing thoughts
22:38 outro
23:25 submissions for 2021 foundations revealed contest
You have a wonderful way of making garments feel like stories throughout the whole video. It's so refreshing to watch and listen to, and I get to learn something along the way!
The reason you couldn't find patterns for a union suit is that you need to be searching for long johns patterns! For some odd reason, people associate the words "union suit" now with silly onesies, like one someone might wear on Halloween. And what I think of when I see an actual union suit is long johns.
You’re sweet to suggest that. Long johns are generally referring to the two-piece long underwear unless you say “one-piece long johns” and even that didn’t turn up any historical patterns or any other promising results.
Fancy-cosy is my new fave aesthetic ❤
New subscriber here. Oh! How I love your perspective...your presentation...your spunk! I'll be watching for more with great anticipation. By the way...I'm a newbie to Historical Sewing, as well. Gathering supplies and materials for my first outfit. I'm thinking to begin this journey in Colonial America...and work my way forward. Yes, I know how to knit so I'll be knitting my own stockings. This is gonna take awhile! lol But that's ok. Also, I'll be making leather stays because I'm focusing on the "Everyday Woman" in my journey. In those days, it was "the usual way" for the "lower class" ladies to choose leather over fabric stays because leather was cheaper and more readily available, as far as I can tell from research. ...unless one was blessed enough to have a "well-to-do" benefactress who might donate her old undergarments to charity. Charity was also "the usual way" for those more well-to-do. Thank you for this video! Your look through the lens of history has been most helpful!
Why do I now feel the need to have a union suit... lol
You are delightful! And please make a video on dress reform!
I love what you are making and you are inspiring me to figure out how to finish in the usual way.
I’m enjoying playing catch up on all of your videos as I’ve just stumbled across you! You are so charming and refreshing.
Lord tunderin Jesus boy...
Those curtains are beautiful though ngl
Absolutely loved this and thank you so much for sharing!
a. that was good footage, b. Perfect for Christmas morning, c. I just love that union suit.
Wonderful winter ensemble essentials! Love the pattern tips!
hey if you're worried about the neck on that wrapper, I bet it'd look great with a (faux) furry trim on it!
i adore this!!! your analyses of concepts (scope creep, 'in the usual way' etc) are always wonderful to listen to, and your work is so beautiful! honestly i love that wrapper dress so much
Wow, thank you!
It’s looks so cold with those capes
Such a wonderful message and you look so warm and cozy!!!
This was really awesome. I liked your thought on the "usual way" and winter clothing is always fun to see. Yes, "fancy cozy" sounds like a great style!
Awesome winter projects! Too bad south Texas doesn't have winter lol
Omg, the coat pictured at 4:20! *Drool*
Last week was definitely chilly. Glad it's warmed up this one. I love the fancy cozy vibe. I can definitely get behind that. Love the gaiters, they look wonderful in red. Thanks so much for sharing your projects and philosophy with us. Take care.
I love your modeling footage 😂 great video!
This was a fabulous video, with a great voice over, and as an Australian preparing for yet another dreadfully hot Summer, thank you for all the snowy goodness!
I'm so glad our chat was helpful!
Your chats are always helpful!
Surprised about the lack of wool. Here in Norway wool is king for all things winter. You might have made the choices because of availability, but I was just wondering if there were other reasons.
You're 100% correct. The gloves are wool, and the cloak is a wool blend. The other stuff, you're right, is based on availability. wool is pretty expensive here for the 100% stuff, and even then, the cheaper it is, the coarser and more for "outer wear" it is. And I was trying to challenge myself to buy as little as possible. I'm all for wool in the future!
the tea gown was lovely...
The usual way is a problem with all historical books. If you look at old cook books a lot of the recipes are a list of ingredients and a reference to temp. If you find some that are pre standard measurements you will find things like butter about the size of a small egg.
We definitely need to bring back spats/gaters!!
You should read up on Fannie Farmer if you want to learn more about that - she established the first standard cookery measurements!
@@LizCapism oh I didn’t realize. I have heard of her cook books but didn’t know just how much we owe her. I will definitely read up on her. Thanks
Cooking and baking are also about proportions as sewing and knitting are. I didn’t realize that those proportions could be learned and transferred from recipe to recipe until a baker friend of mine commented about my son baking cookies all the time.
What a lovely meditation on “finish in the usual way”! I also enjoyed the thought process behind the historybounding pieces and seeing them come together. This is the first video of yours that I’ve seen, and I’m now a subscriber!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Enjoyed this video, it was really thought provoking and now I’m thinking I need to look up some of those home sewing guides, maybe they’d be more helpful than the tailor’s manuals that while I understand better now are still beyond my current knowledge. I do feel a bit assured in my decision to make my long johns off a existing set I ordered now tho cause I ran into the same issue with trying to find one and I really need some before it gets cold here.
Did the clothes do a good job of keeping you warm? How do you feel they worked compared to modern clothes?
You asked this question four months ago but it got buried in my notifications. Now that the weather is warming up again I will say that I didn't use the muff as much as I would have liked because with the Great Unpleasantness I don't go outside much unless I have the dog with me. But all the other items really helped in the cold weather! I used them interchangeably with my modern winter wear based on my outfits and where I was going to be. It was awesome and I never noticed a difference as long as I was being mindful of my needs that day.
This is delightful and I love it. Makes me want to look into those drafting books, thanks for the heads up! ☺️
New subscriber! You are adorable.
I love your encouragement to join the foundations revealed contest. It looks like a great contest.
Amazing video as always! It was so much fun watching you show off your full winter garb in the snow :D I'm actually going to participate in the FR 2021 competition and I'm so excited/nervous! I'm a total beginner who, like a lot of people, started sewing during lockdown. I don't have a sewing machine so I started working on my mockup a few weeks back to make sure I leave myself enough time to finish my project before the deadline!
Have fun!
New subscriber here, love this cancon 😂 thumbs up from the west coast
Your clothing pieces turned out wonderfully. Thank you for sharing the free pattern for gaiters and for talking about the competition. I had never heard of the competition until your video and am very excited to participate now.
Wasn’t expecting to have f e e l s over this video but here we are! Very touching. Also now I need gaiters. 😂😂😂