My first ever Leica anything was the 50mm f0.95 noctilux, I love it so much and have not regreated the purchase, You shoot it at 0,95, it is just so sharp at 0.95 and the light fall off is so beautiful
just got it back, I had issues with it, first a loose screw inside jammed up my focusing ring, it went to leica New Jersy, they fixed the screw and removed 2 specs from inside, in doing, they left fine cleaning marks on 2 rear lens elements, it went back to them again and they could not clean it out, then only did it go to Germany for those elements to be repleaced. all this took more than 1 yr, it was still under warranty, non of it was caused by me. Now there are some fine dust inisde, its not as clean as it should be, not sending it back again.
Dear Thorsten... I want to thank you for inspiring me in my photographic journey... I am a m4/3 user and your enthusiasm for Leica inspired my choice of lenses... I am now the proud owner of the Pana-Leica 15mm f/1.7, Pana-Leica 25mm f/1.4, Pana-Leica 42.5mm f/1.4 and the Pana-Leica 100-400mm f/4.0-6.3... I love them and this system very much... However, one day when I am blessed with the money, I will begin my collection of the German Leica Camera system... That being said - let me tell you that for less than 10% of the price I am getting quite a value and I enjoy having my lenses say "Leica" on them (even though technically the lenses are designed in Japan)...
Thank you for the kind words. The Panasonic "Leica" lenses are designed by Leica, the machines used are Leica specifications, only difference is that Panasonic doesn't apply the strict Leica quality control. So Panasonic uses more optics made than Leica. I hear (as a rumor) that Leica throw out 90%, Panasonic throw out 10%). But in a way I think it's very much the same result in the end. It has the Leica look, so I wouldn't worry
Regarding LEICA Camera prices the price of the noctilux is a good deal. Especially if you buy a noctilux used as the F1.0 50mm. Thanks Thorsten for coming up with a big variety of topic in your videos. We'll see each other in Munich, if you ever do a workshop there. (dont like the NBG Store)
If you really want to go down this road - sorry, Classicist in a previous life! - ‘nocti’ is a perfectly correct dative on its own; ‘noctilux’ is ‘a light for the darkness’, ‘life/splendour for the darkness’, or even ‘sight for the darkness’ - all of which are pretty good.
The 'street' photographers I've watched on UA-cam generally recommend 28mm or 35mm wide-angle lenses. With an aperture of f/8 and one of those lenses you can stick a camera right in your subject's face and not worry about the focusing. With a 75mm lens - like the Leica Noctilux lens - you can get a good shot of your subject from 15 ft. away - and your subject won't be grimacing in fear.
I like depth of field, so I prefer to use the lens wide open, also for streep photography. But there's different styles, f/8.0 as you mention, or using a flash.
I'm always up for a chat about Leica stuff, so thank you. However, I think that you could have spent some time talking about the Mitakon 50mm T0.95 which was about half the price of the Leica. That lens, if I am correct, is very similar to the Leica, but not the same formula. The Leica has less distortion, although this can easily be corrected. I'm sure there are other differences.
Amazing review love all your videos , it’s easy to follow even if you don’t have a big background with photography . What do you think would be better choice for travel photographyI will be using with MP body ? Leica 50mm Summilux-M f/1.4 asph Black chrome Or Noctilux M50 f1.2 asph new in black
No, I haven't gotten something like that. Only theft. If you damage a Leica lens, it's handmade. So they can fix almost anything with spare parts and repair, and the spare parts are very inexpensive. It's not like getting a spare part replaced on a car.
Interesting fact you mentioned about the m10 sensor having pixels angled towards the incoming light from the lens, I've never heard of something like that. Are there any other manufacturers that have a similar designed sensor or is this exclusive to Leica?
This is exclusive to Leica. Back in 2003-2008, it was 'common knowledge' that Leica rangefinders couldn't be digital because the lens was too close to the sensor. But then somebody in the company (Kaufmann, likely) demanded they found a way, and this was the way to do it.
“... as long as the rangefinder mechanism ..... is totally adjusted.....” I believe that this is a very important comment that focusing problems with the M system may be related more to the mechanical focussing system being out than the skill of the photographer.
It's both. You can tet the mechanical adjustment pretty easy (by going outside and focus on an object far away; if infinity doesn't match with that, the machanical focusing is off). Most focusing errors are users afraid they miss the focus, so they spend too much time and effort focusing. It's easy, and if you treat it as such, it will be.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard, on the street - where people are moving - you're better off not even trying to focus your M10 at f/0.95 without looking through an EVF. In my opinion you'll just be wasting your time. I've given up trying.
I have first LEICA lens ... APO SUMMICRON 90mm F2 ASPH. just learning this lens, my opinion is you must learn every lens as each is it's own ceature , a living thing when light enters. I would love to one day have an o.95 NOCTILUX.
What ND filter are you using with the Noctilux in the daytime? I have a Heliopan Variograu 0.3-1.8, and while it's good, I am not completely satisfied with it. I feel like this lens deserves better.
Hello Thorsten and thank you for your video. After being a Pentax user (I not a professional) for many years, I recently acquired a Leica C-Lux, which I am learning to love quickly. I know that this is not the cameras that you are used to review but, could you do a review of this one for us who are beginning with Leica? Thank you!
All sorts of things happen when you do portrait, you release it and move as you do, or the subject moves slightly. The result is that you have some that are out, some that are precise in a series. So you get the ones you need, and you get some that are off - for reasons unknown...
I would likely get an f/1.0 and enjoy that, then at some point looking if I wanted to upgrade to f/0.95. The difference is visible, but you will be so blown away with the f/1.0 you won't miss anything. The Summilux 50mm seldom goes well alongside the Noctilux: You tend to use just on of them, so if you wanted to use the money 'saved' on something else, a 28mm or 90mm might be a better idea. You can always stop the Noctilux down to f/2.0 and getsimiler or better quality than with a Summicron f/2.0 lens.
It's an underestimated lens, just as the 'nomal' 50/2 lens (that happens to be the least expensive in the Leica catalog). The 35/2 is a great optics, very cool colors an d3D feel; and of course it doesn't in itself add bokeh and depth-of-field that a 1.4 does. But it's high quality and fairly exciting as such. You can add excite ment, and you can even add bokeh and depth-of-field by working close focus to subjects and have sparkling light in the out of focus background.
I have the 35mm Summircron Asph and it's an awesome lens. However, the Voigtlander 35mm f2 Ultron matches it in performance and build quality. I have both lenses and I haven't used the sum micron since getting the ultron. I say try the Ultron as well.
Try out the distagon Zeiss 1.4 great Build quality, much better than voigtlander and crazy Micro contrast and sharpness, if you want to see some images txt me in YT. It is about 1500€. Really sharp if you like it you will love Zeiss
I stand to be corrected here but I think that when it comes to optics, the only people who really understand this is Leica, Zeiss and Voigtlander 👌🏼 great video 😊
Magic Of Light The way you talk about it in this video suggests that you are going to get the lens, not that you already have it. I’m just confused, did you make this video first?
It's worth noting to those who don't know that a 50mm f/0.95 will behave like a 75mm f/1.425 on a 1.5x crop. You must apply the crop to the aperture too in order to correctly estimate the light transmission, depth of field, and background blur.
The f/0.95 has improved sharpness, contrast and micro details. The f/1.0 is still awesome, but was essentially made for film where you didn't see the small details as you do with digital sensors. The overall feel and look is the same, you can't expect that people who look at the final photos can actually tell if it was a f/1.0 or f/0.95. But for you using tit, you can tell once you try the f/0.95 that it is more crisp in the details.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard Thanks for the quick reply. I agree that the f/0.95 is crisper with better 'clarity'. The "Leica Glow" is practically nonexistent. However having tried multiple copies of the f/1.0, there are exceptional ones out there that are pretty close to the f/0.95. It's an expensive proposition, but I was lucky to find a good one. For me personally the F1 rendering trumps the f/0.95.
In my opinion, the old and new lenses have a very different character. I much prefer the f/1.0 rendering, with stronger character due to its very peculiar aberrations.
As mentioned, the 0.95 and 1 have different characteristics, the 0.95 has more contrast and is able to focus blue light, an apo correction that the f1 doesn’t. If I’m shooting for sharpness the 0.95 lens will give the glow while remaining sharp whereas the f1 will give a smoother (less sharp) image with a softer feel. To say one is better is subjective, it’s more personal style and choice than an objective truth. There’s really no reason given the huge latitude in post processing that either optic could be used and made to look similar to the other but it won’t allow a perfect transformation from one to the other. A Mandler lens and a Karbe lens are designed differently, owing much to the era and technology. That’s the wonderful thing about Leica lenses, the choice is yours, classical or modern rendering, both are beautiful, each has its own subtleties.
If, to reduce 'noise' to a minimum, you enjoy shooting at low ISO's, ISO 100, say, having a Noctilux lens would allow you to shoot at a higher shutter speed than would some lesser lens, e.g. f/1.4, under the same lighting conditions. I'm surprised that you don't make that point.
I am grateful something wonderful in your pictures got to me & sparked the interest the story being enlightening....and at 14:23 it reaches its maximum for me! =)
What if you don't want to shoot indoors at ISO 6400. What if you want to shoot indoors at ISO 100? Is that just outdated thinking? To me, a photograph shot at ISO 100 looks much better than the same photo taken at ISO 6400. Having an f/0.95 or f/1.2 aperture available makes shooting at ISO 100 - and at a shutter speed of 1/250, say - possible.
Yes, the lower ISO, the better - generally. But with each camera model, I would check what my ISO limits are. M9 is 800, M240 and M10 is 3200 ISO. In some cases 1600 will be better. Thing is, when yiou turn up the ISO, it's because there's little light = little information. When that little information is amplified (which is how the ISO works in digital cameras), you get noise in the cases where the information is not sufficient to make details and colors right.
My point was that having an aperture of f/0.95 or f/1.2 available will allow you to use lower ISO settings in low-light situations. I think THAT is why Leica made the Noctilux lenses, NOT, simply, for the amazing bokeh they offer. @@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard
We never not needed what a 50mm on a crop sensor will be? Or 50mm is 75 on apsc we want pure image quality comparison which does not start until half video ends
The sharpness of the Noct on the TL or Fuji (any apsc sensor) has nothing to do with corners since the best part of the lens and image is cropped.The reason why is noct not so sharp is the unability of the le s to resolve the resolution.APSC sensors translated to the 35mm format and pixel pitch means that you have to deal with higher pixel density ,tgu s 24 mlip is closer to 32mpix as resolution goes. Anyway nobody is buying Noct for sharpness but other attributes.Is is overpriced yes definitely.
N. D. He’s a weird one for sure. I’m just going to believe you missed a smiley at the end of your initial comment as I did with mine. :) happy M shooting!
The 7artisan f/1.1 is an equally fun lens with dreamy look and dreamy bokeh, and it's only $398. I like that one for portraits and dreamy looks. For street photography or any 'normal' photography, the 7artisans is not sufficient detailed to make you happy in the long run. But as a special effects lens, it's great.
The CV 50mm f/1.2 has good critics (ca 1000€). Have not used it but read an in depth article on Reidreviews regarding this lens. I have used the CV 50mm f/1.5 and I like the rendering of this lens on the M9. The Leica Summilux or if price matters even the "venerable" non APO Summicron 50mm renders great wide open on Leica M bodies.
A 50mm will not "behave like a 75mm" on a crop sensor. It will behave like a 50mm. However, your field of view will be reduced to the equivalent of a 75mm. Leica's greatest achievement has always been selling Mercedes level photo equipment at Bentley prices and getting away with it. Of course, if you are gullible enough to believe that putting a 50mm lens on a crop sensor will magic it into being a 75mm, as this Leica salesman states, then you are a prime candidate to be a Leica customer. Make sure and buy this magic piece of equipment being pushed in the vid now y'hear.
1968 Canon issued 50 mm 0.95 lens which is better "edge sharpness than noctiux 0.95 " OVER 10thousand dollars can you believe that leica playing game for ad ? Come on Leica can do better than that !!! I paid CANON 0.95 $700 15 years ago $$$$$
My 0.95 was totally out of focus every single time, and I mean not even near. Infinity focus was impossible. Two trips to Leica and it's spot on with every Leica rangefinder I have, except the M3 which is slightly out of focus with every large-aperture lens I have. Can be calibrated, but haven't bothered yet.
My first ever Leica anything was the 50mm f0.95 noctilux, I love it so much and have not regreated the purchase, You shoot it at 0,95, it is just so sharp at 0.95 and the light fall off is so beautiful
That's going in with a bang :-) Agree.
just got it back, I had issues with it, first a loose screw inside jammed up my focusing ring, it went to leica New Jersy, they fixed the screw and removed 2 specs from inside, in doing, they left fine cleaning marks on 2 rear lens elements, it went back to them again and they could not clean it out, then only did it go to Germany for those elements to be repleaced. all this took more than 1 yr, it was still under warranty, non of it was caused by me. Now there are some fine dust inisde, its not as clean as it should be, not sending it back again.
Dear Thorsten...
I want to thank you for inspiring me in my photographic journey... I am a m4/3 user and your enthusiasm for Leica inspired my choice of lenses... I am now the proud owner of the Pana-Leica 15mm f/1.7, Pana-Leica 25mm f/1.4, Pana-Leica 42.5mm f/1.4 and the Pana-Leica 100-400mm f/4.0-6.3...
I love them and this system very much... However, one day when I am blessed with the money, I will begin my collection of the German Leica Camera system... That being said - let me tell you that for less than 10% of the price I am getting quite a value and I enjoy having my lenses say "Leica" on them (even though technically the lenses are designed in Japan)...
Thank you for the kind words. The Panasonic "Leica" lenses are designed by Leica, the machines used are Leica specifications, only difference is that Panasonic doesn't apply the strict Leica quality control. So Panasonic uses more optics made than Leica. I hear (as a rumor) that Leica throw out 90%, Panasonic throw out 10%). But in a way I think it's very much the same result in the end. It has the Leica look, so I wouldn't worry
Regarding LEICA Camera prices the price of the noctilux is a good deal. Especially if you buy a noctilux used as the F1.0 50mm.
Thanks Thorsten for coming up with a big variety of topic in your videos. We'll see each other in Munich, if you ever do a workshop there. (dont like the NBG Store)
The closest translation of Noctilux, from Latin, is actually: “Light of the Night”. Literally, that would be “Noctis Lux”, hence “Noctilux”.
Thank you. "Light of the night" or "King of the Night"
If you really want to go down this road -
sorry, Classicist in a previous life! - ‘nocti’ is a perfectly correct dative on its own; ‘noctilux’ is ‘a light for the darkness’, ‘life/splendour for the darkness’, or even ‘sight for the darkness’ - all of which are pretty good.
Sorry further down the road....from a poet it would be - "a ray of light in the kingdom of darkness" =)
the lens that had so very thin depth of field, if you release the shutter when your heart beats it will be out of focus. 😂
I found f1.2 and f2.8 sufficient for my purpose but yes its expensive personal choice.
now, i need to go to finished my homework, so that one day I can afford this lens.
The 'street' photographers I've watched on UA-cam generally recommend 28mm or 35mm wide-angle lenses. With an aperture of f/8 and one of those lenses you can stick a camera right in your subject's face and not worry about the focusing. With a 75mm lens - like the Leica Noctilux lens - you can get a good shot of your subject from 15 ft. away - and your subject won't be grimacing in fear.
I like depth of field, so I prefer to use the lens wide open, also for streep photography. But there's different styles, f/8.0 as you mention, or using a flash.
1:18 The f/0.95 is significantly longer, wider, heavier and front heavy compared to the f/1.0, especially the earlier E58 version.
I'm always up for a chat about Leica stuff, so thank you. However, I think that you could have spent some time talking about the Mitakon 50mm T0.95 which was about half the price of the Leica. That lens, if I am correct, is very similar to the Leica, but not the same formula. The Leica has less distortion, although this can easily be corrected. I'm sure there are other differences.
PLEASE make a new video demonstrate the 50mm Noctilux in your photography techniques
Amazing review love all your videos , it’s easy to follow even if you don’t have a big background with photography .
What do you think would be better choice for travel photographyI will be using with MP body ?
Leica 50mm Summilux-M f/1.4 asph Black chrome
Or Noctilux M50 f1.2 asph new in black
What do you think adapting it to l-mount and using it for film ( moving image ).
Thorsten, do you insure your photography gear? My cameras have taken drops in the past. Damaging a $10k lens would be a very painful affair.
No, I haven't gotten something like that. Only theft. If you damage a Leica lens, it's handmade. So they can fix almost anything with spare parts and repair, and the spare parts are very inexpensive. It's not like getting a spare part replaced on a car.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard That's good to know. Thanks for your reply.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard could you tell us the theft experience?
@@Caracalaba My insurance only covers theft, not damage
Interesting fact you mentioned about the m10 sensor having pixels angled towards the incoming light from the lens, I've never heard of something like that. Are there any other manufacturers that have a similar designed sensor or is this exclusive to Leica?
This is exclusive to Leica. Back in 2003-2008, it was 'common knowledge' that Leica rangefinders couldn't be digital because the lens was too close to the sensor. But then somebody in the company (Kaufmann, likely) demanded they found a way, and this was the way to do it.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard In fact, I think it was in Leica's product literature regarding their early digital M bodies.
“... as long as the rangefinder mechanism ..... is totally adjusted.....” I believe that this is a very important comment that focusing problems with the M system may be related more to the mechanical focussing system being out than the skill of the photographer.
It's both. You can tet the mechanical adjustment pretty easy (by going outside and focus on an object far away; if infinity doesn't match with that, the machanical focusing is off). Most focusing errors are users afraid they miss the focus, so they spend too much time and effort focusing. It's easy, and if you treat it as such, it will be.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard, on the street - where people are moving - you're better off not even trying to focus your M10 at f/0.95 without looking through an EVF. In my opinion you'll just be wasting your time. I've given up trying.
I have first LEICA lens ... APO SUMMICRON 90mm F2 ASPH. just learning this lens, my opinion is you must learn every lens as each is it's own ceature , a living thing when light enters. I would love to one day have an o.95 NOCTILUX.
What ND filter are you using with the Noctilux in the daytime? I have a Heliopan Variograu 0.3-1.8, and while it's good, I am not completely satisfied with it. I feel like this lens deserves better.
I use a 0.9 filter, or 8X from BW or Heliopan, or almost any brand will do
what are your videos shot on?
35mmf/0.8 .... Yes !!!! they would make a killing! and with the focal lens difference, they could keep it the same weight and size as the 50mmf/0.95
Hello Thorsten and thank you for your video. After being a Pentax user (I not a professional) for many years, I recently acquired a Leica C-Lux, which I am learning to love quickly. I know that this is not the cameras that you are used to review but, could you do a review of this one for us who are beginning with Leica? Thank you!
You're not the first one mentioning that. I might take it for a swing and do a user report.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard Thank you very much!
Mr. Overgaard! When you do portraits with the 0.95 and focus / recompose do you find the focus has shifted sometimes? If so, does this bother you?
All sorts of things happen when you do portrait, you release it and move as you do, or the subject moves slightly. The result is that you have some that are out, some that are precise in a series. So you get the ones you need, and you get some that are off - for reasons unknown...
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard ahh... I feel better 😊 thank you for clearing that up. Now time to make some portraits!
Hello, what’s your advice on this Noct vs 75. Let’s not discuss about focal differences. I’m in the market for Noct but can’t decide. Thanks!
I prefer 50mm as the most versatile, portable, compact solution.
Are Leica M Cameras better than my Canon Rebel T6 with 18-55 Kit lens?
The camera you get enthusiastic about and want to take out is the best one.
I know you’ve ordered one .....why wouldn’t you ? . It will be amazing and you easily have the skills to get the best from it . Enjoy 😀
New Leica owner.
Would you get a Noctilux F1 over 0.95 and compliment with lets say a summicron/summilux?
I would likely get an f/1.0 and enjoy that, then at some point looking if I wanted to upgrade to f/0.95. The difference is visible, but you will be so blown away with the f/1.0 you won't miss anything. The Summilux 50mm seldom goes well alongside the Noctilux: You tend to use just on of them, so if you wanted to use the money 'saved' on something else, a 28mm or 90mm might be a better idea. You can always stop the Noctilux down to f/2.0 and getsimiler or better quality than with a Summicron f/2.0 lens.
Finally .... thanks for sharing
Interesting video and explanation !
the tl2 with the viewfinder looks sick!
Hey Thorsten, I'm thinking of getting the Summicron 35mm f2 asph 11674, but I've heard its a boring lens, what do you think about it ? :)
It's an underestimated lens, just as the 'nomal' 50/2 lens (that happens to be the least expensive in the Leica catalog). The 35/2 is a great optics, very cool colors an d3D feel; and of course it doesn't in itself add bokeh and depth-of-field that a 1.4 does. But it's high quality and fairly exciting as such. You can add excite ment, and you can even add bokeh and depth-of-field by working close focus to subjects and have sparkling light in the out of focus background.
Go and get it!!! As an owner of one I can highly recommend it! I personally love the bokeh, the colours, its sharpness, build quality and size.
I have the 35mm Summircron Asph and it's an awesome lens. However, the Voigtlander 35mm f2 Ultron matches it in performance and build quality. I have both lenses and I haven't used the sum micron since getting the ultron. I say try the Ultron as well.
Boring? Every lens is boring if you take photos of boring subjects.
Try out the distagon Zeiss 1.4 great Build quality, much better than voigtlander and crazy Micro contrast and sharpness, if you want to see some images txt me in YT. It is about 1500€. Really sharp if you like it you will love Zeiss
I stand to be corrected here but I think that when it comes to optics, the only people who really understand this is Leica, Zeiss and Voigtlander 👌🏼 great video 😊
Are you coming in San Francisco any soon?
Thorsten you should try the Nikkor Z 58mm 0.95!
Next up is the 7artisans 75mm f/1.25. Then Nikkor Z, as well as the previous old Nikkor Noct
Didn’t you already get the 75 Nocti?
Yes, I made a review and video about it.
Magic Of Light The way you talk about it in this video suggests that you are going to get the lens, not that you already have it. I’m just confused, did you make this video first?
That is what is a detailed lens review .. amazing information
Probably heresy as I own an M10-R but I also use my 0.95 Nocti on a Fuji XH1 using the M adapter. Effective 75mm lens and works beautifully.
I have a zuiko 50 f1.4 and 55 f1.2 and I don't think Im that far behind tbh. Perhaps my eye is not critical enough...
It's worth noting to those who don't know that a 50mm f/0.95 will behave like a 75mm f/1.425 on a 1.5x crop. You must apply the crop to the aperture too in order to correctly estimate the light transmission, depth of field, and background blur.
Great presentation. Much to consider...
Is there an ‘extender’ for noctilux 0.95 that makes it say a 100mm lens?
No, you would have to crop.
Amazing but those are big numbers. I'll settle with enjoying your videos and photography.
Thorsten may I ask why you shoot the f/0.95 and not the f/1.0? I've been curious about this.
The f/0.95 has improved sharpness, contrast and micro details. The f/1.0 is still awesome, but was essentially made for film where you didn't see the small details as you do with digital sensors. The overall feel and look is the same, you can't expect that people who look at the final photos can actually tell if it was a f/1.0 or f/0.95. But for you using tit, you can tell once you try the f/0.95 that it is more crisp in the details.
@@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard Thanks for the quick reply.
I agree that the f/0.95 is crisper with better 'clarity'. The "Leica Glow" is practically nonexistent. However having tried multiple copies of the f/1.0, there are exceptional ones out there that are pretty close to the f/0.95. It's an expensive proposition, but I was lucky to find a good one. For me personally the F1 rendering trumps the f/0.95.
In my opinion, the old and new lenses have a very different character. I much prefer the f/1.0 rendering, with stronger character due to its very peculiar aberrations.
I have shot both the F/0.95 and the F/1.0 on my M6 and MP-240. In my opinion, the F/1.0 renders better images.
As mentioned, the 0.95 and 1 have different characteristics, the 0.95 has more contrast and is able to focus blue light, an apo correction that the f1 doesn’t. If I’m shooting for sharpness the 0.95 lens will give the glow while remaining sharp whereas the f1 will give a smoother (less sharp) image with a softer feel. To say one is better is subjective, it’s more personal style and choice than an objective truth. There’s really no reason given the huge latitude in post processing that either optic could be used and made to look similar to the other but it won’t allow a perfect transformation from one to the other. A Mandler lens and a Karbe lens are designed differently, owing much to the era and technology. That’s the wonderful thing about Leica lenses, the choice is yours, classical or modern rendering, both are beautiful, each has its own subtleties.
If, to reduce 'noise' to a minimum, you enjoy shooting at low ISO's, ISO 100, say, having a Noctilux lens would allow you to shoot at a higher shutter speed than would some lesser lens, e.g. f/1.4, under the same lighting conditions. I'm surprised that you don't make that point.
Not to change the subject but can you tell me please what strap is that?
Rock-n-roll snake grey strap.
Ben Smukler Thank You!
Alejandro Sosa You’re welcome! They make great straps.
I am grateful something wonderful in your pictures got to me & sparked the interest the story being enlightening....and at 14:23 it reaches its maximum for me! =)
What if you don't want to shoot indoors at ISO 6400. What if you want to shoot indoors at ISO 100? Is that just outdated thinking? To me, a photograph shot at ISO 100 looks much better than the same photo taken at ISO 6400. Having an f/0.95 or f/1.2 aperture available makes shooting at ISO 100 - and at a shutter speed of 1/250, say - possible.
Yes, the lower ISO, the better - generally. But with each camera model, I would check what my ISO limits are. M9 is 800, M240 and M10 is 3200 ISO. In some cases 1600 will be better. Thing is, when yiou turn up the ISO, it's because there's little light = little information. When that little information is amplified (which is how the ISO works in digital cameras), you get noise in the cases where the information is not sufficient to make details and colors right.
My point was that having an aperture of f/0.95 or f/1.2 available will allow you to use lower ISO settings in low-light situations. I think THAT is why Leica made the Noctilux lenses, NOT, simply, for the amazing bokeh they offer. @@MagicOfLight_ThorstenOvergaard
@@Gravitys-NOT-a-force That's right. The original reason for Noctilux and Summilux lenses was to make "low light lenses" for use in the dark.
What's goin on in the thumbnail there
I would MUCH rather keep the ISO low and use this amazing lens
We never not needed what a 50mm on a crop sensor will be? Or 50mm is 75 on apsc we want pure image quality comparison which does not start until half video ends
The sharpness of the Noct on the TL or Fuji (any apsc sensor) has nothing to do with corners since the best part of the lens and image is cropped.The reason why is noct not so sharp is the unability of the le s to resolve the resolution.APSC sensors translated to the 35mm format and pixel pitch means that you have to deal with higher pixel density ,tgu s 24 mlip is closer to 32mpix as resolution goes. Anyway nobody is buying Noct for sharpness but other attributes.Is is overpriced yes definitely.
Thorsten actually said at 3:20, to paraphrase "this is poor mans setup ... 1.5k lens on leica TL2 body"
For everyone else there’s the Noctricron 42.5 f1.2
Yes, that one could be fun. Also the 7artisans 50mm f/1.1 if one need full-frame coverage.
I put the lens on body so that you not worry about dust. 😂
Uthman Affan hahaha 😂
Nocti (to the night ) + Lux (The light) = The Light to the night
I am gonna pass on this one 😂😂
pho-to-grapher.... Pho-to-gra-pher please
75mm 1.25 noct is the best lens ever made. Period.
The fauxtilux. I love it TO!
N. D. Eh I can handle his craziness. He’s not bad. You either use Sony or a worshiper of JL.
N. D. He’s a weird one for sure. I’m just going to believe you missed a smiley at the end of your initial comment as I did with mine. :) happy M shooting!
I cant afford a Noctilux so that I'm going to take Japanese Noctilux 😭
The 7artisan f/1.1 is an equally fun lens with dreamy look and dreamy bokeh, and it's only $398. I like that one for portraits and dreamy looks. For street photography or any 'normal' photography, the 7artisans is not sufficient detailed to make you happy in the long run. But as a special effects lens, it's great.
The CV 50mm f/1.2 has good critics (ca 1000€). Have not used it but read an in depth article on Reidreviews regarding this lens. I have used the CV 50mm f/1.5 and I like the rendering of this lens on the M9. The Leica Summilux or if price matters even the "venerable" non APO Summicron 50mm renders great wide open on Leica M bodies.
@Magic Of Light Thorsten, have you seen much or have experience with TTartisan’s 50 0.95?
A 50mm will not "behave like a 75mm" on a crop sensor. It will behave like a 50mm. However, your field of view will be reduced to the equivalent of a 75mm. Leica's greatest achievement has always been selling Mercedes level photo equipment at Bentley prices and getting away with it. Of course, if you are gullible enough to believe that putting a 50mm lens on a crop sensor will magic it into being a 75mm, as this Leica salesman states, then you are a prime candidate to be a Leica customer. Make sure and buy this magic piece of equipment being pushed in the vid now y'hear.
Follow the review, you would know it won't cut it. For reasons stated in the video.
12 days ??????????
What's up for Christmas ???
UNLESS someone would be kind enough to simply give me one 😏
A 35 noctilux !!!
Leica lenses are great for sure, but the cameras are overpriced, the lenses are too in a way but at least they are unique.
Your story is not clear
Dude ! What are you even talking about ? Leica lenses are inherantly souless , anticeptic lenses .... So not worth the money ....
I think Jesus will have returned before I am able to afford this lens ☹️
Knowing Leica, probably just super expensive, just because...
I bought one, and I am now poor. lol.
Pho-Tog-Raphy not Photo-Graphy please pronounce it properly in English. Thank You
1968 Canon issued 50 mm 0.95 lens which is better "edge sharpness than noctiux 0.95 " OVER 10thousand dollars can you believe that leica playing game for ad ? Come on Leica can do better than that !!! I paid CANON 0.95 $700 15 years ago $$$$$
cameran Joun Wow! $70,015 is a LOT for a Noctilux-hope it was worth it!
It's not exactly sharp, but it has many of the qualities such as dreamy crazy out of focus and all.
@@shakteem no! no ! no,I paid 700dollar US, 15 years ago !
cameran Joun much better!
i wasted my money on 50mm noctilux, its never in focus no matter what i do.
Abdul Alkaabi no matter what? Even if you are ten meters from your subject? If so it’s you, not the lens.
I would strongly suggest to calibrate lens and Leica M body at Leica Wetzlar. You can combine this with a visit of the factory.
Was it the f/1 model ? That lens can only be calibrated for one aperture (usually, wide open).
@@dans.8198 Speaking about the Nocti 50mm f/ .95. This lens has no focus shift issues to my knowledge and experience.
My 0.95 was totally out of focus every single time, and I mean not even near. Infinity focus was impossible. Two trips to Leica and it's spot on with every Leica rangefinder I have, except the M3 which is slightly out of focus with every large-aperture lens I have. Can be calibrated, but haven't bothered yet.