How to Drywall Over Beam Hangers!
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Ever wondered what the solution is? Well, here it is!!!
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It’s weird, I followed this channel years ago when I was finishing my basement and wanted some simple drywall tips, and I have no need for any of this anymore and yet I still find myself compulsively watching these videos. Something about just watching somebody who is really good at their job go about their business makes for oddly compelling content…
Yup!!!
Same. I came here for tips on skim-coating a room like 5 years ago. Finished that project 4 years ago. Still watching the videos though because Ben is so fun to watch.
Thank you!!!!
Me too! I've picked up hints I hope to never use!!!
Great teacher
The all purpose mud has a chemical calcium in it that acts as additional catalyst for your hotmud which caused it to set faster.
That's what I thought. I've noticed mixing hot mud and premixed usually makes the job more difficult
I mix hot mud and plus 3 all the time, never had it kick off faster. Quite the opposite. There is no catalysts in all purpose. The only calcium in it is limestone (and possibly the mica if it’s a calcium mica). Limestone and clay are what all mud and boards are made from. Hot mud has plaster in it which is what sets. Alum is a catalyst for that, but there’s no alum in any compound that I know of.
The part about dealing with the mud kicking off early is why UA-cam is so much better than the old school shows where everything went perfect.
‘Merica Mud.
Best known for apple pie and joint compound
And baseball ⚾️
Strongly recommend a bucket scraping trowel. Changed everything for me
I mix my hot mud in ice cream buckets... smaller quantities and easy to clean out.
I just had a bucket of 45 minute go off on me yesterday! Ticked me off! But i was stubborn and used that crap until it was rock hard. And thats how i lost the bucket, too.
I had a similar experience. Interestingly, the areas where I was using it when it was going off cracked on me
Always learn something from your techniques and products used. I wondered if the metal needed some primer but I guess not. Thank you!
Bucket scoop is always nice for getting 95% of excess mud out of a bucket
As a DIY'er, I let a bucket of self leveling concrete compound set up. I figured the bucket was trash, but two days later I slammed it upside down on the floor and the slug of compound came right out cleanly.
If you're going to shave out the back side of the drywall, I'd mix up some hot mud and slap it on the back of the shaved out portion. That'll kill 2 birds with one stone, it helps fill any voids to help decrease failure chances down the road, and also just helps with adhesion for the piece in general
Love that you 100% deliver on the title of this video!
Yes. I had 1/3 of a bucket of 90-minute mud (brand new purchased bag) start setting up in ~60 minutes because the house was kept so warm by the homeowner (who is always cold because hypotension). I didn’t consider it when I brought the bucket inside and only got through half my work before the mud was toast. Getting it out is always frustrating
i just posted on this, but it seems like mine is setting even quicker (posting on female account)
yep had that happen lots before with durabond for prefill your better to mix small amounts and then remix when needed
It's funny that you posted this video because I'm working on my kids room in the basement and to strengthen the floor joists I put a metal beam that was cut down the webbing and in-bedded it into the joist but it sticks out a bit still and I decided to use a fare amount of shims to smooth out the transition. I'll send you pics if you like.
When scraping out back of board and thin remaining you can back butter so no void behind.
I go a little overboard I guess and nail some mesh over the top and then fill. Like stucco. I could see using layers. Some all purpose heavy weight to stick to the metal and then fast set on top. But of course the dry time is long for that first coat, but it sure doesn't have to be think. Could even just paint it on with a brush and a day later ready to go. I would worry about shrink cracking with 1/2 of mud. The fast set I guess solved that issue.
5:11 yes that’s happened to me and it’s just the worst 😒. Love the video!!
Masterfully done! Greetings from 'the states' : )
I use Durabond 90 but in a pinch, if you don't have All Purpose and have only hot mud (45 or 20min) then add a good amount of wood glue to your mix. It'll help with the adhesion.
The bag could have certainly gotten wet or is old. I've had entire buckets of durabond set up in 5 minutes and it was old product. Another thing to consider is the water. The chemical composition of water can speed up the setting time I've found, just like temperature can.
7:31 FibaFuse is not woven. It is a mat structure.
Regarding cutting out the back and it being very thin., part of the issue is that it is sitting on top of bolt heads. Have you tried filling the hole with quickset as you did, so you get a solid back (some should squish out, providing the thin drywall with support. Thoughts?
Just a DIY'er, but I've had to do that once or twice with brackets but not brackets that large and also with a patch that wasn't the same thickness as the surrounding drywall. Build it up with mud and tape it when it's built up enough. As for the hot mud cooking off, I never let it get to that point. I watch the clock and stop with plenty of time to get it out of the bucket and off my tools. For larger areas or things that would take time, I would use 90 minute. For smaller jobs, the 45 or 15 minute stuff.
Usualy, I use PUR foam, 30 min later cut it straight with the wall, and use Renoband (Knauf material) over it, and next day finish it with some regular mud material.
Renoband is permanent elastic, minimal/almost to nothing shrinking, and not hard like other materials, so never cracked because of it.
i just realized this is also Ben Degros the skateboard guy, sick!
Hey Ben, have you ever tried to use contact cement on something as a bonding surface? Don’t know if you’d mud it when tacky or when dry, but I know mud will stick to it because it’s used on vinyl bead
Forbidden frosting. 😂
Router would be my go to other than mud but I'm an armchair Andy
I used some leftover (3 years old) 20-min WesPac. It set up in 5 minutes. I tried adding dab of wood glue it became 3 min mud lol.
I would just fill those areas with quick set mud, and then tape over them.
And yes it will be a good fix.
that's what he did
I'm glad you're doing well despite the knife/etc.
Welcome to the States! lol Not like it's the first or last, but hey, gotta be welcoming, yah?
One of my kids (and her fiance) moved to Portland a couple months ago; I feel a connection to the coast if not the city.
Maybe there would someday be a chance to get to a similar place even if I've not ever really been a skater, even in the 80's.
BMX, now.... Different story! LOL
I like fiber fuse more than paper. But i find it swells a little when drying.
Great video thanks I learned some new techniques! Going to try that fiber fuse on this one difficult ceiling seam I have where there's a 15° angle. The sheets didn't line up very nice so there's going to be a lot of hot mud going in to make things right. Sheetrock 45 to the rescue
Do you have No Coat flexible corner bead available where you are? That might be an option for you to try
I will check I have both home Depot and Lowe's I'm located in Canada. This would be for what you would call an inside corner. The ceiling starts off flat for two feetand then it slopes down 15° till it reaches the exterior wall. @@juzcallmeben
To get mud out of a round bucket, I find it much easier to use an L shaped knife like a tuck pointer (wider blade than a tuck pointer) rather than the kind of knife you are using.
Problem how do you deal with repairs on a knock down texture? The knock down texture dries twice as fast over the newly applied mud VS over painted surface.Could make a good video.
Ben, have you tried those silicone bucket liners? They are awesome. Just dump the contents right into the trash.
Do you have a link to those?
Have you ever tried the newer Fibafuse MAX? From what I gather, it has been reinforced to deal with the problem that the original stuff was kind of crap for corner taping because it tore too easily. Apparently this stuff is much better for that and just stronger overall. Would be nice if you've given it a try and can share some thoughts.
Why are nails used to hang the drywall in some areas and screws in other areas?
Im assuming it's just because the basement I'm doing is so dry but oh boy does my mud set fast. Hot or regular. Mud starts drying before you've finished the wall.
I've always got a spray can of a zinsser primer with me, I prime the metal brackets before caking them in w mud. Other than that, yep, this is exactly how i bury them too.
Recently been watching all of your videos on skim coating. I have a brutal ceiling texture that is painted. The texture looks like someone painted raised veins all over the ceiling. Any thoughts on just ripping a random orbit sander over it all then skim coating or just layering on like 4-5 skim coats? This will also be my first ever skim coat attempt, but drywallers won't take on the job since it is too small in scope (1 room).
I wonder if the 45-min. mud setup early because of the adhesive in the All Purpsoe.
No. Just an off bag. There are multiple comments with people saying there were grains in this brand of mud lately.
yep, hardened too quickly. same problem when using hydraulic cement
How about shaving the back of a sheet AND backfilling with some hot mud when pressing the shaved drywall into place?
Did I miss it- or did you use all purpose over the not-100% cured hotmud coat? (Just curious how long you need to wait before going over hot mud with all purpose for purposes of minimizing repair trips when I do it. I was under the impression it should be 100% dry but I know there’s.. tricks 😏
You need a bucket scoop!
Don’t suppose you could grind the heads down a bit?
The 45 probably set off faster because you mixed it with chemicals in the all purpose.
Is there a reason you didn’t use Durabond?
Sweet nail job👌
Thanks. I did it myself :)
@@vancouvercarpenter I haven't nailed sheetrock in years. I remember the first time I nailed up a ceiling. Times have changed 💯
might not be the same deal because it's a different product, but with easysand if the bag has been open too long, I've found it kicks faster but takes ages to actually dry completely
This one was in the back of my truck which is covered from rain but still very damp.
Yep sometimes you sacrifice buckets
there's this youtube channel vancouver drywaller or something he told me to mix setting type in my mud pan :)
That knife got close to a sensitive area. Be careful. We dont want anything bad happening to you!
Funny you say that about the quick set - recently I’ve had 20 minute setting up within about 5 minutes essentially right after the mix .. I can’t imagine what 5 minute would do.
Either the water you used was murky, your pan or bucket was dirty, or you mixed too thick. Heat affects it too
@@big12ref2 On all accounts no! 68 deg. And 40% RH clean sink water, pan 100% washed out cause I always do.
Why not drill holes and spackle?
Bob Ross of drywall
I noticed there was nails and not drywall screws. I though nails were a thing of the past. When and why would you use them nowadays?
Are there any similar situations where a little bit of wire lath would be useful?
Wouldn't it be easier to replace those screws from flanged hex head to structural flat head (Flatlok) screws? That would maybe give an extra 1/4" depth and maybe 1/4" drywall could be used for the patch. Just a thought...
Those screws are structural screws, specifically rated to this engineered application. Not using such specified fasteners would fail inspection.
@@tonyc7352 The Fastenmaster Flatlok screws are structural as well and suitable for this application. That's why I spelled out Flatlok.
@@bobbray9666 Yes, they are structural but I've seen that type used for fastening multilayer beams/joists. I haven't seen them use on joist/beam hangers, maybe are rated for this, I don't know. Yes, if they are then that would be a good idea.
@@tonyc7352 They are a good idea but most framers stick to what they've always used and most use the most economical materials unless told otherwise.
Last year, when we built a new home, I had the framers use polyurethane foam subfloor adhesive. They'd never heard of the stuff. I had them install Zip-R sheathing that they had never installed. I had them use a piece of lap siding on the window sills to create a pitch outwards, which they had never done. I had my siders install a 1/4" plastic mesh rainscreen, which they had never done. Etc...
Dont you think drywall joint compound buckets should be square? How many times do you try to scrape the knife on the side but cant because its round.
Not a bad idea until you try mixing in it.
@@vancouvercarpenter You got me
Durable 90 and large mesh tape
I'm in the US, and I have new bags of that stuff, all different times. It seems like all of them start hardening less than 20 minutes. (posting on chick account)
Thank you for the video.
Aren't you supposed to cover carrying structures with thick fireproof drywall?
Rookie or DIYr?
Who ever fitted the hangers should have used countersunk screws and recessed the metal to make it all flush
well done sir
is plastering not a thing in north america?
Some poor sod is going to try and hang a picture below that beam one day and have 50 nail holes into spackle lol.
Ya I just give up and buy another bucket when that happens… very irritating
You’re telling me Ben does other things besides reviewing trucks?
brand certainteed started to have granular sand in their dry quick sets we noticed 😢
brand cgc is smoother
Ok so it’s not just me. I always found it to be the worst hotmud of all the brands already.
@@vancouvercarpenter here I am thinking it was only me! I wanted to get away from the box stores here and the local stores carry certainteed and I hated it.
I'll just say what I would do in this case without see the video. I would just use some frame mud like durabond to fill it and make it flat, than I would use a fibatape or meshtape than finish with the regular mud work.
Yes, I'm glad to know you did exactly what I would do! I would just use a mesh tape instead of the paper in the inside corner, because I already had many bad experience with the paper tape cracking in the future, and it never happened with meshtape. the only difference
Where’s your skateboard channel
to thin for prefill imho
Bad framing detail by the framing crew, should have c'sink the connection into the post and beam, they know its going to be drywall over later unless they assumed an exposed beam and column
The mix kicked off early because you added a dry and premix in together.
Been doing it for years and I’ve never had it happen before. Could have been the green lid had something different in it than the muds we use up here but I think it was just an old bag of mud with little set up crusties in it. Didn’t notice them until I started using the mud because they were like sand and I couldn’t see it.
Now you have to do a patch with an actual Bounce sheet!
I've don it actually. Just search for it.
Awesome subject. I really like how you have never stopped developing the channel over the years and how you still always find something new and interesting to show. I have been a subscriber from the early days. Cheers! 😻
Thank you!!!
When you said you had a trick for adhesion, I was waiting for the glue, lol. Touché, sir, touché.
You should do a mock up and see if that new stuff is better than traditional stuff. I think that would be a solid video.
That chaotic bolt pattern on the hanger is insane lol.
It prevents the fasteners from splitting the grain.
Lots of R&D went into that crazy pattern!
@@YogiTheBearMan Redbulls and drugs maybe.
@@akshonclipStill pretty random though
They make a small paddle for a drill,that you can mix quick set in a pan. I only use 20 minute mud because I can get rid of that amount without much waste. Haven’t used 45 or 90 in years.
i buy egg beaters for handheld mixers every time i see them in goodwill, they are basically free and work super amazing.
@@joshuawhite9725 I might try that. After awhile the paddles beat up the side of my metal pan.
I love fiber fuse for bigger areas and it cones in 75' roles. I've also used the 36" sheets for skimming over old plaster walls and ceilings. I have to order it on line, Canadian distributor, because the big hardware stores don't sell it.
100% AGREE. I've used paper and mesh, but fiber fuse is thinner, stronger and easier to use. The hand itch is the only disadvantage. I couldn't find it a HD and had to order online.
You don't need to order online. Every drywall supplier that isnt a box store has it locally in Canada. There was a huge shortage of it the passed 2 years.
I used to work on those old spiderweb cracked plaster walls decades ago. Used rolls of mesh tape for that, it’s all we had. Can’t remember if they were 24” or 36” though.
I've been able to fill a spot like that with a saggy mud by putting some Fibafuse inset a little into the filler pass. So by the time im done, there are two layers of Fibafuse. The first layer acts like rebar in concrete.
only thing i would have done different is coated the metal with some multipurpose primer from tec. Also gardz by zinnsser, just something to help give that mud a nice tight bond and also prevent the moisture in the mud from causing any rust.
I never had leftover easysand/dirabond cuz I planned ahead and put up cornerbeads before and with the leftover I just filled in some beads
Hey brother I’m from alberta your neighbor , I’m originally a electrician by trade now a engineer and when I went to finish my home I found your videos and when I had a quote 1/2 way through project both contractors told me to get the original contractor to do the workload because they would not be able to match the quality …………. I did all the work myself after your videos you also got me back into skateboarding after 15 years of my board being hung up went on within 3 years from 4 foot bowl to 6 foot to 8 foot and now killing 10 foot drop ins , was always my dreams took a lot of practice but was one of the best feelings in the world when I finally nailed my drop in ……. I also broke 2 ribs along the way but it didn’t slow me down
Have you tried putting some 45 minute hot mud behind the part of the drywall you shaved off? If you mixed it thin enough it should squeeze out without cracking the drywall yet support it when it sets. That way you don't run the risk of cracking it when taping the corners. I've not done it, but it might be worth considering.
That could work. It would be super annoying though to take out all the taping tools while hanging.
Plonk o ppl 00o
I've had to repair drywall that's been hung over lath and plaster walls that have had the plaster knocked off but the lath left up, and I do this to stabilize the lath behind the repair. Often times it's loose after being messed with 90 some odd years after it was hung.
@@vancouvercarpenterIs there such a thing as fibre-reinforced mud? Seems like adding some micro-fibres would add some inherint strength to the mud. There are similar things with fibre reinforced concrete, but it is still a new-ish are of concrete design.
I don't think it would be the right tool for this application, but just curious.
That’s how I do it
You should try Durabond by USG. By far the hardest and best bonding dry mix.
hard to find though
I just use hot mud straight up for my 1st and 2nd coats 20 for deep 1st coats/small jobs, 45 or 90 for the bigger jobs when i need more quantity at once.. 3rd coat is easy sand low dust lightweight stuff. I had to replace my 10" knife as the edges had worn down causing it to scoop out the bud from the middle and leave a dip. Never thought about it until i notice the wall seam was still low after 3rd coat.
I know you prefer paper tape, and watching your videos I've come to agree. I also know you've talked about how much you like using sheets of Fiba Fuse to strengthen bigger patches. Do you have any thoughts on using the 2" FibaFuse for taping?
My wife and I were watching this and the trick to get the set mud out was an eye opener, we have been doing it the hard way.
Hammer the sides of the bucket with a rubber mallet. I use that method for dry wall compound and even concrete. I let it dry and hit with a rubber mallet
FibaFuse is a great product and I used it during my remodel. If you end up touching the edges of the roll though, you will itch like no other. Touching the face of the roll doesn't seem to be a problem. If you are careful, you can complete the job and still avoid touching the edges. Just a heads up to anyone that tries it for the first time!
Yep happened a few times I keep a garden trowel with me now just to break the centre line and the it normally pops out.
You mentioned that quick-mud being hard as a rock. I watched a guy one day use a piece of hardware cloth wrapped around a block of wood, which worked like really aggressive sandpaper and was rather quick. He just worked out the high spots then used traditional mud for the finish coat.
I use hot mud for taping. Most of my jobs are repairs so I can use 20 or 45 minute. For larger taping jobs I will use 90 min. I am also a big fan of "Perfect 90" inside corner tape. It straightens out wavy inside corners and is super easy to apply. No moving or tearing.
I've had that same problem with those off brands of hot mud. 90 minute turns into a rock at 20 minutes and your stuck with a brick in the bucket. USG has always been super consistent.