The evil of the thriller...You always have the best subtle ways to make me have to admit my age. I was admiring the locker you added right when you said that.
Thanks for the parking brake fabrication. I have a 1987 f150 I put a disk brake kit on, and the parking brake was an issue. Now since I have seen your fix "I CAN DO IT!" My wife will like the fact that the truck will have a parking break.
When I need to make a cable end like this I get a small size nut that goes over the cable, and solder the cable to the nut. You can whack it with a hammer to flatten it and it will work just like a crimp end. This technique has never failed me. Just dip the end of the cable in some soldering flux, and put some solder in a small metal container, like a metal bottle cap from vodka or something. and heat it with a torch. dip the cable in the liquid solder in it will be great!
Eric reminds me a lot of my dad. If something doesn't work or fit quiet right, he uses what he has and makes it work. Fabrication is truly an art. I've always enjoyed mechanics and fixing stuff, but I don't think I'll ever be as skill full or as mechanically inclined or as good at fabrication as Eric or my dad. It's stuff that definitely takes a lot of trial and error. I've always enjoyed watching your videos Eric, there have been many times where I've had to reframe back to one of your videos when I was working on something, they are so informative, and very enjoyable to watch, can't wait to see the Fairmont in action, and many more videos that are hopefully to come.
To All the naysayers As I have said before this is Eric's Project he'll do it the way he sees fit and besides it's already done so deal with it. I like seeing how Eric overcomes problems it helps me think more creative. So kudos to you Eric the car guy. P.S. I'm waiting to hear more about your plans on Fixing it forward
Thanks for that. I was getting tired of people telling me I'm going to die because I welded my parking brake cables. As for FiF, I post monthly updates here. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog
Me and my Son, think you're the BEST. You have dozens and dozens of posts over the years. I just want to say how much we appreciate all that you share. We love the Honda Engine work the most. I wish you and your Family , all the best for the New Year.
Your videos are very helpful for a "driveway mechanic" like me. I am going through the exact situation, disc brake conversion parking brake cable modification. Thx. I also own a sailboat so I have heavy a duty crimp/Swage tool and steel slugs to crimp to the end of the cable.
Also, I think you did the right thing leaving the cables in stock configuration. That little swing arm gives added leverage to the user and makes pressing the pedal easier.
I just know you've seen it before but ill say it again, I absolutely love how you leave your mistakes in the videos. It makes me feel like if I mess up something it is not the end of the world, instead makes me go back and figure out a better way to do things. Thank you for doing that. Also, its a way for me not to make the same mistakes too :) Really appreciate your videos Eric
This is such a great video. On my car, it is very difficult to replace or even to adjust the emergency brake cable. I know with bicycles, you adjust the slack from the caliper end. And on older cars, you may have to deal with rusty parts that may end up breaking or be very difficult to remove. I may just end up crimping an end on there, because it is purposely made very difficult so that the dealers can profit off of you. The crimping method may be the way to go for me. Just lock on some needle nose pliers on there to ensure where you want the crimp to be, then when you know where you want it, crimp it there. Thanks!!!
I had that same problem with my Miller welder, except that it was the plastic sleeve, or liner, inside that cable that wore through - and it wore through from doing exactly what you were doing there, leaving it coiled up. Now it won't feed smooth even stretched out straight. I haven't priced it out yet, but I'm sure it'll be another bill to add to the pile ... You get yourself some rest there Eric! You've been burning the candle at both ends for a while now. We appreciate it, but you need to take care of yourself there buddy! HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Ive been arrogant to cars all of my life . Found this channel and have been learning so much everyday and have been just fascinated . Awesome work Eric . thanks for the channel and cant wait to see the fairmont drive day !
The easy way to do this is to run those new cables just as they are - but crossed over under the car. So the left runs across the width of the car into the right cable receiver and the right runs into the left. That way you can use the long cables with no mods
ArchimedeanEye great idea, just be sure that the cables don't contact the driveshaft or any other moving parts to avoid having them violently ripped out causing damage.
Volvo 240 sedans from the 70's till the 90's had them crossed over. You just need to fabricate some little stand off brackets and hold down clamps (don't use zip ties!)
That thunderstorm sounds so gorgeous. I'm originally from Omaha, so I miss getting the really good thunderstorms we don't get as often here in the NY area.
Love your videos as always! Can't wait to see the Fairmont back in action! I'm not going to join the "Eric, you're doing it wrong!" mob, but if your welded cable ends ever give you any trouble in the future, I can definitely vouch for the effectiveness of a few wire rope ferrules installed with an inexpensive pair of crimpers from the hardware store. I've used them with great success while rigging commercial sound and lighting equipment.
Are you kidding man?!? Damn, this is why I love "gearheads", this video/it's comment section. You guys are so knowledgable about cars its fuickkng hot. Keep it up!!
I just had to fabricate an E-brake cable for my 56 Fairlane and I brazed my lugs on the cable ends. It came out nice and clean and strong. Just a tip if you gotta do it again.
Vincent Price Laughing at the Evil of the Welder, while the lightening booms :-D. Fresh cables are great, but later i have to revisit them to re-adjust, allways stretch a tiny bit. On some old cables ive seen, they had a funnel shaped metal end, the core wires were bent/spaced out to fill the inside of the funnel, moulten lead was poured in to fill the gaps between the wires. That was a long time ago though.
Just a small suggestion. If your going to use zip ties to permanently keep those cables off the tires, I'd put 1 or 2 more on there just in case. Something as small as a rock can hit that area and break your single tie. Then you wouldn't know it was rubbing until it was too late. With a couple extra ties in there it will give you cheap insurance.
Or do it properly and make some simple stand-off brackets out of some flat strap that bolt to the rails or body and loop around the outer cable. Eric has a blow torch, so he could bend some up real easy.
Brad Pike Incorrect. I have both a natural gas torch and an oxy set. For heating 2 or 3mm strap natural gas is perfectly fine and easily quick enough. You have no fucking clue what you are talking about and add zero value to the conversation. So fuck off.
MIG welding cables have a replaceable liner inside that can be kinked and damaged, resulting in poor wire feeding. Replacement of the liner is pretty easy, so if you have ongoing issues, get a new liner and make a video of the replacement! Happy 2017, Eric, it's great to see you again!
FYI I've tried zip ties on E-Brake cables before and they always break, might want to use metal conduit holder that fits, just drill 1 small hole and use a self tapper.screw.
Hey Eric, I see your Element in the back ground which leads me to this. I changed out my rear stabilizer bushing and the squeak went away. Good build on the brake cables.
Nice job! No mistakes made 😊....just put 1-2 more zipties on both sides. Dont rely on only one, they are cheap anyway. Coz if that one fails its bye bye brakes!
Heres a Tip a guy from Grote Lights gave to my college class. He was talking about zip ties. Whites are for interior work because they're plastic and black ones are for exterior work because they have a coating on it. It will resist better against weather and such
Great video love the detail, quality, and effort you put into these video. it make it really enjoyable to watch. Hyped to see the fairmont finished!! Can't wait to see what you got in stock for 2017.
I like the format of this video...feels kinda like we figured it out together. You even heard me a few times screaming at my monitor. Anyways...Wish You a Happy New Year Eric!
Eric. High temperature metal repair solder works well for this kind of work. I have used it to assemble cables where I did not want a crimped connection (can create stress) and it has worked well, and looks rather neat too. The stuff is almost as strong as a braze, but at a lower temperature. You should try some. I found mine in the plumbers section at my local Home Labyrinth...
"They"? This is from Michael Jackson's "Thriller"....Maybe you are thinking Iron Maiden's "The Number of The Beast"..."Whoa to you oh earth and sea...."
I would have cut a big hole in the floor and just did the Fred Flintstone method in stopping. Just a tip, wear shoes, our feet aren't built like our ancestors. but in all reality, great video. keep up the good work.
EricTheCarGuy hey I love your videos and I was going to go into the automotive trade. I wonder what tools would you advise new hires to have on their first day? thanks for your time!
Eric is a very skilled, innovative and omni competent automotive technician. I really like his presentation style. I can't say enough positive things about his style alone. One criticism though: I heard you use the words "taunt" and "tauntness" when explaining the proper amount of cable tension. It should be "taut"; lines and cables can experience more or less tautness. "Taunt" is what Eric does when he shows us all his cool tools in the shop ;-) P.S. - Yeah, I know I am a spelling-and-grammar-nazi.
I'm addicted to the Fairmont videos. Argh! Where can I get a sponsor? This episode was a "thriller". It was "Priced" right. Pun time is over get back to work and stay dirty.
Do NOT use nylon wire ties to secure the cable. When you actuate the P Brake the cable will want to go straight thus breaking the wire tie also they break over time (due to road salt, ozone, UV, etc.) . Use two stainless steel “P” clamps back to back; they will not break and they will last forever. I also would use a good rust preventive. About welding...you are trying to weld two dissimilar metals....I would just crimp the ends on...you have a vice. Why didn’t you keep both ends of the cable in tact and just remove a middle section; in some areas of the cable you don't need the outer sheeting? You could clamp the two sections together with two “U” clamps...then if you did miss measure you could just go back and readjust at the “U” clamp. Otherwise good video as always!!!
EricTheCarGuy please help, i purchased an idle regulator for my 1995 mitsubishi galant ES, but i dont know where does the input and output hose go. i thought it was a simple replacement but a previous owner removed the idle regulator. ive been looking for a couple of days and i cant find a picture of how it goes. and the book doesnt show it either.
www.google.com.pr/search?q=95+galant+igle+regulator&client=ms-android-sprint-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwip3pn7iKjRAhXC6iYKHRL4BMsQ_AUIBygB&biw=412&bih=652#imgrc=VIP_hz932lNPIM%3A this is the exact piece i bought
15:00 Wood bit on metal. High strength steel usually requires stronger cutting tools. In your case, I would've used a drill press and a carbide bits. Although honestly, I would've just made another end using another barrel. I like that 454 SS I see back there. I'm restoring another 350 myself. Usually in intervals of whenever I have free time.
Eric, do some welding videos! I have a Chicago electric welder and want to have some tips. My welds kind've look like the cables some times and want to get better. Like Gas vs Flux core. I love fabricating.
Had to swap the rear axle out on my Chevy Van with a later model that had different drum parking brake cables from the original. Saw this and now I'm thinking about doing the same thing you did but running the cables to a handbrake assembly to the right of the drivers seat similar to the way Ford Transit Connects were done. Never really liked the foot parking brake assemblies, too many issues.
Eric, thank you for your awesome videos! They are helping me alot woth my project for my Foxbody. I currently have a SN95 being switched into my Foxbody. Everything from Interior to Differential and so on. Btw, if I was your camera guy, I would be saying "That's what she said" 99.9% of the time in this video ahahaha
Treat your MIG just like any other cable- periodically recoil the wire, spray WD-40 in the "hose/sheath" run the wire back through. Lightly spray the coil, too.
Best thing here is how Eric calls this a Parking Brake... not an E-Brake or whatever the rest of America calls it. Stupid if you ask me cos here in the UK we use these to hold a car once parked as we mostly drive manual cars. ...also the last thing I would do in an emergency is yank on that hand brake and cause a loss of control haha!
The evil of the thriller...You always have the best subtle ways to make me have to admit my age. I was admiring the locker you added right when you said that.
Thanks for the parking brake fabrication. I have a 1987 f150 I put a disk brake kit on, and the parking brake was an issue. Now since I have seen your fix "I CAN DO IT!" My wife will like the fact that the truck will have a parking break.
Same on 96 F150 and my search led me here! About to tackle
It's refreshing to see someone else think out loud, and fabricate something live, with all the snags!!
When I need to make a cable end like this I get a small size nut that goes over the cable, and solder the cable to the nut. You can whack it with a hammer to flatten it and it will work just like a crimp end. This technique has never failed me. Just dip the end of the cable in some soldering flux, and put some solder in a small metal container, like a metal bottle cap from vodka or something. and heat it with a torch. dip the cable in the liquid solder in it will be great!
Old comment, I realize, but damn this trick is awesome. .thanks
I'm a hardcore Chevy guy, and I gotta say that "I want more Fairmont vids". Great job Eric
Eric reminds me a lot of my dad. If something doesn't work or fit quiet right, he uses what he has and makes it work. Fabrication is truly an art. I've always enjoyed mechanics and fixing stuff, but I don't think I'll ever be as skill full or as mechanically inclined or as good at fabrication as Eric or my dad. It's stuff that definitely takes a lot of trial and error. I've always enjoyed watching your videos Eric, there have been many times where I've had to reframe back to one of your videos when I was working on something, they are so informative, and very enjoyable to watch, can't wait to see the Fairmont in action, and many more videos that are hopefully to come.
Thanks very much for your comment. I really appreciate you sharing that.
The sweet satisfaction of making things that don't go together work flawlessly together, Great Job Eric!
Your best Fairmont videos are the ones when you have to figure something out and make something work.
Damn Eric, that balancing act is going to give me nightmares. I get nervous climbing under my truck, when it's on jackstands.
I was thinking the same, I would have moved the lift arm forward under the car rather than completely away.
To All the naysayers
As I have said before this is Eric's Project he'll do it the way he sees fit and besides it's already done so deal with it.
I like seeing how Eric overcomes problems it helps me think more creative.
So kudos to you Eric the car guy.
P.S. I'm waiting to hear more about your plans on Fixing it forward
Thanks for that. I was getting tired of people telling me I'm going to die because I welded my parking brake cables. As for FiF, I post monthly updates here. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog
Thriller. Not around in the 80s, that song is still cool, Eric you're still hip.
Me and my Son, think you're the BEST. You have dozens and dozens of posts over the years. I just want to say how much we appreciate all that you share. We love the Honda Engine work the most.
I wish you and your Family , all the best for the New Year.
Your videos are very helpful for a "driveway mechanic" like me. I am going through the exact situation, disc brake conversion parking brake cable modification. Thx. I also own a sailboat so I have heavy a duty crimp/Swage tool and steel slugs to crimp to the end of the cable.
Also, I think you did the right thing leaving the cables in stock configuration. That little swing arm gives added leverage to the user and makes pressing the pedal easier.
Perfect timing as I have this job ahead on my own project. Thanks for some ideas.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
I just know you've seen it before but ill say it again, I absolutely love how you leave your mistakes in the videos. It makes me feel like if I mess up something it is not the end of the world, instead makes me go back and figure out a better way to do things. Thank you for doing that. Also, its a way for me not to make the same mistakes too :) Really appreciate your videos Eric
It's so nice when people 'get it'. Thanks for being a thoughtful intelligent person. They seem to be on vacation based on some of these comments.
This is such a great video. On my car, it is very difficult to replace or even to adjust the emergency brake cable. I know with bicycles, you adjust the slack from the caliper end. And on older cars, you may have to deal with rusty parts that may end up breaking or be very difficult to remove. I may just end up crimping an end on there, because it is purposely made very difficult so that the dealers can profit off of you. The crimping method may be the way to go for me. Just lock on some needle nose pliers on there to ensure where you want the crimp to be, then when you know where you want it, crimp it there. Thanks!!!
Eric, somehow missed this one...just found it and for a future project this is what I need..
You ARE the MAN!!
I had that same problem with my Miller welder, except that it was the plastic sleeve, or liner, inside that cable that wore through - and it wore through from doing exactly what you were doing there, leaving it coiled up. Now it won't feed smooth even stretched out straight. I haven't priced it out yet, but I'm sure it'll be another bill to add to the pile ...
You get yourself some rest there Eric! You've been burning the candle at both ends for a while now. We appreciate it, but you need to take care of yourself there buddy! HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Ive been arrogant to cars all of my life . Found this channel and have been learning so much everyday and have been just fascinated . Awesome work Eric . thanks for the channel and cant wait to see the fairmont drive day !
The easy way to do this is to run those new cables just as they are - but crossed over under the car. So the left runs across the width of the car into the right cable receiver and the right runs into the left. That way you can use the long cables with no mods
ArchimedeanEye great idea, just be sure that the cables don't contact the driveshaft or any other moving parts to avoid having them violently ripped out causing damage.
Volvo 240 sedans from the 70's till the 90's had them crossed over. You just need to fabricate some little stand off brackets and hold down clamps (don't use zip ties!)
With that logic, you might as well spool up all the slack and zip-tie it to the frame. Nobody wants miles of unnecessary cable under their vehicle.
That thunderstorm sounds so gorgeous. I'm originally from Omaha, so I miss getting the really good thunderstorms we don't get as often here in the NY area.
Your videos are what I look forward to every time I get on UA-cam! Keep it up Eric. One of these days I'll have to fly out to one of your meets!
Eric, in short, you are awesome and do great work. Thanks for sharing.
Love your videos as always! Can't wait to see the Fairmont back in action! I'm not going to join the "Eric, you're doing it wrong!" mob, but if your welded cable ends ever give you any trouble in the future, I can definitely vouch for the effectiveness of a few wire rope ferrules installed with an inexpensive pair of crimpers from the hardware store. I've used them with great success while rigging commercial sound and lighting equipment.
Are you kidding man?!? Damn, this is why I love "gearheads", this video/it's comment section. You guys are so knowledgable about cars its fuickkng hot. Keep it up!!
Yea, they're a barrel of laughs. Thanks for the comment.
I just had to fabricate an E-brake cable for my 56 Fairlane and I brazed my lugs on the cable ends. It came out nice and clean and strong. Just a tip if you gotta do it again.
This was incredibly satisfying to watch. Parking brake just kicked in yo
Thanks!
I've always wondered if I can make my own cables and weld ends on. Now I know I can. Cheers Eric! Legend!
Indeed you can. Good luck.
Eric on each "arms" of your lift, you should weld a small metallic box to collect the lug nuts. And voila. No more flying lug nuts !
or keep a magnetic tray since welding to the arms will void the warranty ( it is a brand new lift)
The idea of welding small boxes is better than a magnetic tray because it will always be there, and never needed to be moved.
Vincent Price Laughing at the Evil of the Welder, while the lightening booms :-D.
Fresh cables are great, but later i have to revisit them to re-adjust, allways stretch a tiny bit.
On some old cables ive seen, they had a funnel shaped metal end, the core wires were bent/spaced out to fill the inside of the funnel, moulten lead was poured in to fill the gaps between the wires.
That was a long time ago though.
yes, the balancing act made me nervous too ! Fab video !
Awesome how you were able to re-use the old with the new!
was watching this and my wife suggested it be used for a drinking game. You do a shot every time Eric says cable lol
Just a small suggestion. If your going to use zip ties to permanently keep those cables off the tires, I'd put 1 or 2 more on there just in case. Something as small as a rock can hit that area and break your single tie. Then you wouldn't know it was rubbing until it was too late. With a couple extra ties in there it will give you cheap insurance.
Or do it properly and make some simple stand-off brackets out of some flat strap that bolt to the rails or body and loop around the outer cable. Eric has a blow torch, so he could bend some up real easy.
Brad Pike No, a blow torch would also be fine for mild steel.
Brad Pike Nice try idiot!
That got out of hand quick, didn't it?
Brad Pike Incorrect. I have both a natural gas torch and an oxy set. For heating 2 or 3mm strap natural gas is perfectly fine and easily quick enough. You have no fucking clue what you are talking about and add zero value to the conversation. So fuck off.
I have this doing on with my Datsun truck. Thanks for all the ideas
I love doing things like this. Good job!
Amazing video as usual, thanks eric and camera man brian for being awesome!
I'm a cameraman, this guy does a great job.
MIG welding cables have a replaceable liner inside that can be kinked and damaged, resulting in poor wire feeding. Replacement of the liner is pretty easy, so if you have ongoing issues, get a new liner and make a video of the replacement! Happy 2017, Eric, it's great to see you again!
Due to my highly developed Jedi-like powers of observation I just noticed the Fairmont is a 2 door. Yep, I'm sharp, I'm right on the game.
FYI I've tried zip ties on E-Brake cables before and they always break, might want to use metal conduit holder that fits, just drill 1 small hole and use a self tapper.screw.
If it becomes a problem I'll look into it. Thanks for the recommendation.
super coupe depending where you are installing zip ties, yes, I agree. I use worm hose clamps myself.
agreed, the zip tie Will break
worm clamps would be my choice
Hey Eric, I see your Element in the back ground which leads me to this. I changed out my rear stabilizer bushing and the squeak went away.
Good build on the brake cables.
Hi Eric, I'm from Brazil very nice your project. Congratulations.
Nice job! No mistakes made 😊....just put 1-2 more zipties on both sides. Dont rely on only one, they are cheap anyway. Coz if that one fails its bye bye brakes!
Heres a Tip a guy from Grote Lights gave to my college class. He was talking about zip ties. Whites are for interior work because they're plastic and black ones are for exterior work because they have a coating on it. It will resist better against weather and such
22:00 min. really nice. Great thunderstorm. Greetings from Germany.
Great video love the detail, quality, and effort you put into these video. it make it really enjoyable to watch. Hyped to see the fairmont finished!! Can't wait to see what you got in stock for 2017.
I like the format of this video...feels kinda like we figured it out together. You even heard me a few times screaming at my monitor. Anyways...Wish You a Happy New Year Eric!
Thanks! That's just what I was going for.
Eric. High temperature metal repair solder works well for this kind of work. I have used it to assemble cables where I did not want a crimped connection (can create stress) and it has worked well, and looks rather neat too. The stuff is almost as strong as a braze, but at a lower temperature. You should try some. I found mine in the plumbers section at my local Home Labyrinth...
Thanks for the recommendation.
"if you know what that's from, you were alive in the 80's" LMAO Yes! It was such a big deal when it premiered on MTV. It was awesome.
what? no. LOL
"They"? This is from Michael Jackson's "Thriller"....Maybe you are thinking Iron Maiden's "The Number of The Beast"..."Whoa to you oh earth and sea...."
Eric, you read my mind! I need to do this because mine just recently broke.
Good luck.
I would have cut a big hole in the floor and just did the Fred Flintstone method in stopping. Just a tip, wear shoes, our feet aren't built like our ancestors. but in all reality, great video. keep up the good work.
very nice work miss u man
Making stuff is so damn gratifying.
Right?
I mean, I can be a curse sometimes too, when you are supposed to concentrate on something, and you get that makers itch.
Gotta respect the hackery without apology.
Dude.. I love 💚youre work 👍👍👍👍👍
all the best for new year
Same to you!
EricTheCarGuy hey I love your videos and I was going to go into the automotive trade. I wonder what tools would you advise new hires to have on their first day? thanks for your time!
Eric is a very skilled, innovative and omni competent automotive technician. I really like his presentation style. I can't say enough positive things about his style alone.
One criticism though: I heard you use the words "taunt" and "tauntness" when explaining the proper amount of cable tension. It should be "taut"; lines and cables can experience more or less tautness. "Taunt" is what Eric does when he shows us all his cool tools in the shop ;-)
P.S. - Yeah, I know I am a spelling-and-grammar-nazi.
Yes I want more fairmont videos!!!
I'm addicted to the Fairmont videos. Argh! Where can I get a sponsor? This episode was a "thriller". It was "Priced" right. Pun time is over get back to work and stay dirty.
Excellent video (like always) .
Do NOT use nylon wire ties to secure the cable. When you actuate the P Brake the cable will want to go straight thus breaking the wire tie also they break over time (due to road salt, ozone, UV, etc.) . Use two stainless steel “P” clamps back to back; they will not break and they will last forever. I also would use a good rust preventive. About welding...you are trying to weld two dissimilar metals....I would just crimp the ends on...you have a vice.
Why didn’t you keep both ends of the cable in tact and just remove a middle section; in some areas of the cable you don't need the outer sheeting? You could clamp the two sections together with two “U” clamps...then if you did miss measure you could just go back and readjust at the “U” clamp.
Otherwise good video as always!!!
the cable is tempered steel. the welding will take the temper out. crimping will not damage the cable. to prevent pulling the end off, crimp it.
OMG Eric, get some black cable ties lol
Wheels look cool tho.
Eric you should weld up some type of bolt on pulley that bolts onto the welding cart and rolls your hose up so there aren't any kinks
"Can't even see my ugly welds! Ah hah!!"
Hahahaha eric cracks me up!
I cannot wait too see this beast on the road. great job Eric! #fabking
Good job! I personally would have used black zip ties to make them less noticeable. For what's worth, my wife wishes I could run out of gas. 😄😄😄
I can't wait for the motor and transmission to be put in.
When you did the thriller reference 😂😂 I was born in the late 90's and knew that
Yea, you don't have to be alive in the 80's to know who Michael Jackson was. ;)
A Universal Swage Tool is a true Time-Saver.
good job took a bit but you got er done
We said we wanted more Fairmont videos? I didn't say that. Maybe I should fix that.
I want to see more Fairmont videos.
Happy now, Eric?
Happy New Year Eric. Thanks for the hard work you've put into these videos for us. All the best in 2017.
Thanks! Happy New Year to you too.
ERIC YOU'RE DOING IT............
Eric the cable guy. That's your new name. ;)
Hey Eric, I love your work. I've made a big shout-out to the world-wide veteran community on a FB site called Drinkin Bro's Garage. Good on ya mate!
Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy please help, i purchased an idle regulator for my 1995 mitsubishi galant ES, but i dont know where does the input and output hose go.
i thought it was a simple replacement but a previous owner removed the idle regulator. ive been looking for a couple of days and i cant find a picture of how it goes. and the book doesnt show it either.
www.google.com.pr/search?q=95+galant+igle+regulator&client=ms-android-sprint-us&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwip3pn7iKjRAhXC6iYKHRL4BMsQ_AUIBygB&biw=412&bih=652#imgrc=VIP_hz932lNPIM%3A
this is the exact piece i bought
Fair enough! Very good video as always! I like it!
The CVPI steelies look good on that car. I hope you end up keeping them on there.
Best vid yet! PS dog dish hub caps! Good luck
15:00
Wood bit on metal.
High strength steel usually requires stronger cutting tools. In your case, I would've used a drill press and a carbide bits. Although honestly, I would've just made another end using another barrel.
I like that 454 SS I see back there. I'm restoring another 350 myself. Usually in intervals of whenever I have free time.
Thanks for the vid Eric.
Eric, do some welding videos! I have a Chicago electric welder and want to have some tips. My welds kind've look like the cables some times and want to get better. Like Gas vs Flux core. I love fabricating.
A tip for you Eric.
Use black zip ties which are more resistant to UV light and won't get brittle as fast as the white ones.
Yea, since there's a ton of UV light that reaches the underside of the car. ;) Thanks for the input.
OK, so i guess there will not be any "How to mount UV LED stripes" episode in the Fairmont Project series! ;)
Great videos! Learned a lot.
lmao XD
Black zip ties make your car faster than any other color... similar to the "stickers add horsepower" principle...
Robert Blom Ha ha. I'll take that under advisement. Thanks!
If you change the wire lining in the welder cable, it may solve your problem with the wire feed. Bleepin Jeep just did a video on that.
Had to swap the rear axle out on my Chevy Van with a later model that had different drum parking brake cables from the original. Saw this and now I'm thinking about doing the same thing you did but running the cables to a handbrake assembly to the right of the drivers seat similar to the way Ford Transit Connects were done. Never really liked the foot parking brake assemblies, too many issues.
Great video it really helps
Good job, I think the word is taught, instead of taunt
Eric, thank you for your awesome videos! They are helping me alot woth my project for my Foxbody. I currently have a SN95 being switched into my Foxbody. Everything from Interior to Differential and so on.
Btw, if I was your camera guy, I would be saying "That's what she said" 99.9% of the time in this video ahahaha
Treat your MIG just like any other cable- periodically recoil the wire, spray WD-40 in the "hose/sheath" run the wire back through. Lightly spray the coil, too.
Eric, Im pretty sure you just need 9/16 E clips for the caliper cable ends. I had to replace mine when I built my mustang.
good video. Thanks for the info.
Im only 13 and only welded once. Trust me thats not ugly compared to mine.
Thanks for that. Keep at it. We'll get better the more of it we do.
Best thing here is how Eric calls this a Parking Brake... not an E-Brake or whatever the rest of America calls it. Stupid if you ask me cos here in the UK we use these to hold a car once parked as we mostly drive manual cars.
...also the last thing I would do in an emergency is yank on that hand brake and cause a loss of control haha!
there are "u" bolt cable connectors(like used on radio tower guy wires) that would work wonderfully for connecting cables.
EricTheCarGuy put that engine in!
Happy new year 🍻
You're hose usually works better if it's straight Eric....You should know this brother..:>)
Use a torque wrench to turn each hub with a lightly applied e brake. Will give you a good idea on balance
the cables usually do tie to the control arm.
you need log nut trays for your lift.