How to Join Corner Bead...Seamlessly!!!
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Seamless corner bead repair! Perfect for restoration work!
Here's some tools you might need:
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Some nice 12x5 Trowels:
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Why wouldn't you tear off the top piece. Replace it with a full piece of bead. Eliminates the hack job
Ever walked into a 2 foot flood cut restoration with 20 of these to patch? Once you have you will realize why it’s important to know how splice a bead.
Why didn't you just pull the old screws out and remove the wet drywall? Then reuse the corners? Instead you took a grinder and cut them out? I don't understand. Either pull the bead all the way off or find the screws under the 4' mark, remove and slide new Sheetrock behind it and screw it off. Also your already mudding the corner why not do it right and redo the corner. It's not hard I know you know how. Why hack it for an extra buck? If I saw this at my job I'd definitely call you out.
@@phouston6802@phouston6802 I agree this repair job is a patch. Not the same as a whole new drywall job. Actually you can see the house is imperfect. He should demolish the whole house and rebuild it to make sure everything is perfect.
@@danielanderson7667 LOL, exactly. Everybody simmer down now.
@@phouston6802Your idea would just push the meeting point between old and new further out. You’d have to cut drywall back to at least the nearest stud which makes another joint to fix. On the short side there is only a foot to the inside corner, where are you going to cut back to to remove that side? Finding/pulling nails/screws out of corner bead can lead to bends.
If you ‘call out’ your contractor on this method, and insist on yours, he’ll probably just pack up his tools because you’d be doing him a favor.
Hands down, the best drywall, taping and mudding videos on the interweb. I have learned SO much, and not a project in sight I can try these skills on!
😂 not sure if I should wish these kinds of repairs on you or just let you enjoy the videos in peace:)
Couldn’t agree with you more. Love the opportunity to learn from the Pro!
It's not just how good he is at sheetrock. It's really how good he explains himself.
Shoutout to the filming and editing on this - these vids are so tight.
Nice restoration work and repair which made the quick set, the star of the video. Fun with quick set and all the things it can do.
Just wanted to say that I am a fan. I’m an accountant but through your videos I have done my own drywall as well as helped friends. Thank you
My name is also Ben and my man I am impressed and ha e learned alot from you keep on bringing the content!
You should do a Q & A video. That’d be awesome.
Many thanks for your excellent explanations and demonstrations for patching drywall and painting. I’ve relied on the videos as I restore a 12 year old basement suite.
Another excellent job, Ben, and you always make what you do look easy!👍
You are so good at this! I'm envious,
Being a newbie I use Sheetrock 45. Gives me plenty of time to work with it. I’d be scared of trying to use 5 or 20. I’m not THAT fast yet. lol
5 is great for patching a hole those electricians love you leave you with when fishing cables in ceilings for example, but use a hawk as your mud pan will be done afterwards unless you clean it out quickly. 20 is similar but you have work working time. You can easily dump the leftovers from your hawk and clean with a soapy sponge plus if it dry on your hawk it is dry on the wall too!
Thank you! I knew you would have the answer!
If you haven’t already, can you do an in depth video on joining new drywall to existing painted drywall? I’ve never actually had to do this, but I have a project coming up where I will, and I’m just curious about the change in surface texture and how that will affect the finish.
I sand the painted surface with some 60-80 grit.
Add some watered down glue in my mud and do the joint as usual.
You might want to do a skim coat on the painted surface first as to help avoid bubbles.
@@okkromI figured I’d need to scuff up the painted surface a bit so I could “hold” the mud, so to speak. Thanks for the tip with the glue and the skim coat! I appreciate it 👍
tks for posting, im new in the draywall, but your tips and tricks help me a lot.
Awesome thanks, Im about to do this to some corner beads myself.
Excellent instructional video.
This was my go to channel when I was renovating my house. I drywalled the whole house, so I watched the painters at work, before tackling the first floor. But we do kt a bit differently in Sweden. So with the help of this channel I got more efficient and tried other tools and learned that paper tape is the way to go. Thank you Vancouver Carpenter for your videos, that are packed with knowledge and inspiration.
Wanted to comment on an older video but figured i might get a response on a newer vid..anyways when patching plaster and jobs alike ..what glue and what quickset should i use? Than you for your time and content!
Great work as always.
Good job sir.
I would actually like to see a video of you mudding a large job like you would if you weren't making a teaching video. I think it would be pretty neat to see how fast you normally go during a job when you're not teaching. I know you did the ASMR video but i'm thinking something even a little different than that. Just have your camera person video tape almost at a wider or further distance and let you work your magic
Next time I do one I might. I only really take on little jobs that make good videos.
What about the actual joint of the nose bead? How do you prevent a crack or whatever might happen here?
Hey VC, I could use help on a question I'm facing repeatedly as a remodeler. Assuming I'm having pro-drywallers in, at what % of damage is it easier just to re-do an entire wall or ceiling rather than just part of it? Like, if 50% of the wall or ceiling goes, is it easier to just re-do the whole thing? (The other 50% is fully finished, textured, and painted.) Or would you fix the bad 50% and match it? What about 25 damage% 10 damage%? Thanks!
On your second coat, is there anything special about the knife you used? It looks more rounded and taller than the kind I use.
Do you add glue to your 20 minute (or any hot mud) when taping? If so how much? Wood glue or elmers?
I liked working with paper outside corner bead, but have trouble with the paper edge - the paper edge shreds unlike metal corner bead. How do you deal with this?
Last coat, all purpose to make it more sandable?
Could you just remove the old bead or would that be a lot more work?
What about just selling the house and buying another one with a finished corner bead?
Please let me know.
LOL
😂just sell it. But to answer your question. It’s a lot less work to just add the new chunk and if done this way the repair will last and be seamless so this is what I usually do in this case. Especially when dealing with a steel bead. Those suck to tear off.
@@vancouvercarpenter
You definitely lucked out on this one Ben. Watching you get the new bead set perfectly in place the 1st time will disappoint a lot of newbys thinking anyone should be able to this when they give it a shot. Piece of cake...just like Ben did it! 😃
Would using fibafuse work the same?
Yes. Even better because it’s so thin. I just don’t like working with it because it makes my fingers itchy.
@vancouvercarpenter yea it definitely makes your hand/arms itchy I got so use to using it that I don't get itchy anymore haha thanks for the reply
You're a wizard. Or, a warlock. Just slap a mud pan, and have 20 minute mud look smooth.
Nothing that a couple inches of mud won’t solve.
So sorry
Learned my lesson. Quickset is cheap enough that I can dump what’s in the pan when it is hard to work (amateur!). Avoids a round of hard sanding.
How can you not love this guy!
If you hadn't gotten so lucky when you first put the new corner bead on, how would you have gone about adjusting it? just pulling it out from the bottom with your fingers?
Yup. Also, who’s to say it was so lucky and not experience ;)
Thanks Ben, great video 😁👍
Sure, I could do that. Although, for me, the 90 minute stuff would be a necessity. That process would take me probably 4 times as long and require twice as many coats. The process is fun and satisfying, though.
I have to repaint corners that have chipped paint and not sure how i can keep that from happening again. It seems like in some situations it may be best to add a corner molding of some type
Perfect timing... just rebuilding my basement after a flood and the restoration contractor cut the bottom 2 ft of all the drywall out. I was wondering how I was going to get the corner bead to line up!
Haha, I REALLY could have used this earlier! I’ve been watching your vids for a bit now. I had to replace all basement drywall (flood=2ft cutout). I’m happy with my work thanks to your vids. I’ll keep an eye on my corners.
are you kidding me?! I came online to search your channel for old bead to new bead videos and you had just dropped this?! thanks so much. I'm remodeling, rebuilding, and sometimes regretting buying a house built in 1855. Been hanging new drywall on new walls and learning to tie into old lathe and plaster as well. Learned most of it here. Thanks!
as a landlord I do lots of drywall repair work, your channel is top rank, or in my native area "the dogs bollocks". helped me out a ton.
Been there, done that. Using 2 different kinds of corner bead requires that the old metal bead gets buried to keep that sharp edge from showing and the paper corner needs to be built up to create a sharper edge to more closely match the old metal bead.
I'm more inclined to remove the old bead and fill any gaps or uneven-ness present from the loss of the original corner. Definitely want to use a quick setting compound. Put in a whole new bead and match it to the wall. Only one problem to solve instead of 3.
Could be some regional variance among beads. Our paper beads match up perfectly to the old metal ones. There was no buildup required anywhere on this repair.
@@vancouvercarpenter
Nope, it was smooth as silk. (I made another comment about how easy you made this repair look.)
The paper covering on the bead is a bit softer looking than on a metal bead, in my experience. I noticed how crisp yours looked when you flushed it up to the old bead. Pretty nice match. I did some trimless window frames 8 years ago and used a new metal bead, stapled in place.
I had to shim out the new not quite half inch drywall to match the full half inch existing 40 year old material though.
Whatever it takes to make it right. 😃
Thanks Ben. You truly are the most drywallingst carpenter on UA-cam.
Another great video. I've run into this situation and did not know that I could join them and tape the joint on the sides.
VIDEO SUGGESTION:
I searched through your archives and couldn't find an example of what I want to do. In your "HOW TO TAPE 45 DEGREE CORNERS" you've got the sort of sloped wall/ceiling that I've got. I want to put in a rounded corner at the transition from the 45° wall to the ceiling with about a 5 cm radius. Last time I did this, I used USG's Structo-Lite to make the corner, but that product is no longer for sale. Is there a mud product that I should use instead, or should I add drywall to the corners and use taping mud to get the inside curve? I've seen a bunch of locations where you've made these transitions sharp, but I want the angled walls to blend into the ceiling with curves and I haven't seen you do that in any of your videos yet.
Awesome video. Always great to learn the little tips like this to make sure jobs are done very cleanly. Thank you so much for your videos!
Great advice and video.
I have a ceiling to a vertical sky light with a corner tape that has 6 inch split about in the middle if the 5 ft run. How should I repair it?
Thanks for all your videos and assistance.
This is a good and practical video, thank you. Would the same advice about overlapping the seam apply for taping an angle? Like when repairing a ceiling with new drywall piece that goes all the way to the wall and you are "extending" the new tape from the existing, should I carefully "dig out" a 1" section to the old tape and overlap with the new? Or in this situation just butt up to it?
Also, in this video's example, would it matter if the existing corner bead was metal, could I get away with using paper-faced, mud-set repair?
What do you mean by "KICKS OFF"? Is that another way to say, before the quick-set starts to harden?
Thank you. Great video for us DIY'r people
Love your videos, thanks for sharing. Wondering if you have any videos where you install (retro fit) a ceiling expansion joint? I have a job where I need to install a second expansion joint that meets up 90 degrees from an existing expansion joint. Hoping for some hints.
I've started watching your videos since I began an entire house drywall project. Do you have a contact address I could send you a picture of an issue I have? Plus, do you have an Amazon link to a drywall sanding too that you'd recommend?
I know that it is overkill, but i typically just pull out the entire existing bead unless asked not to. But, i love your attention to detail. Great work as always
It’s not overkill. Just depends how much work you want to do and how many cornerbeads there are.
@vancouvercarpenter , absolutely true. The larger water damage jobs I've done have been the ones where I'll match the beads. Thanks for the reply!
Really inspired with your work. I also want to learn this skills. If there any chance to become you student/trainee to gain experience? Please respond
Learned my lesson. Quickset is cheap enough that I can dump what’s in the pan when it is hard to work (amateur!). Avoids a round of hard sanding.
Really inspired with your work. I also want to learn this skills. If there any chance to become you student/trainee to gain experience?
Just did a job today where i did this except i used the steal corner bead. The wall is texured so small enough area where you don't want to pull out the hopper but big enough where you need more the a can of texure didn't want to go to ceiling. Replaced the whole lower part of the drywall so leveling it was easy.
paper bead and all purp mud!? yes! YES YES YES!. some one who agrees. i get called out on that all the time. metal bead sucks hard.
I have about 7 inches of what looks to be tape showing on an outside corner in my bathroom shower, I was just about to start prepping to paint the room and I noticed the tape on the corner, it looks about 7 inches of tape running down the corner. I was repainting because the paint just started to crack and peel in a couple areas, but now I noticed that tape on the corner and I don’t have any clue what to do about it. Should I cut it out and try replacing it? I don’t know what to do. Can I cut it out and just mud the corner and sand it and paint it? Or do I have to replace that tape? I’m intimidated trying to deal with it.
Is the corner patch, a steel nose with paper on the sides? How can I fix drywalled corners, where paint has chipped and the steel corner nose is showing? Thank you.
replace the cornerbead
No. Didn’t need to
Do you remove the bead if your joining an existing finished wall to a new boarded wall to become 1 long wall
My tape job isnt great. Well, tape portion is decent, its the sides next to tape that arent great. Can I sand down next to the tape before I start my 2nd coat? Not get into the paper, but essentially feather.
I got those flat (sharp) pry bars from amazon awhile back. They are great!
Yes, this guy has plenty of experience. Would be a great instructor.
Is a great instructor!
tape the entire cornerbead. years down the road you will be glad.
northwern bc, thank you for great stuff
really help me alot
Are you Ben Degros the skateboarder? 😮
Yup
@@vancouvercarpenter that's sick man I organically found both your channels haha nice one
This guy is also a mean skateboarder too👍🏻😂
Thank you. I’ve got a very large room that’s already done, but I’m going to have to fix butt joint seams, bad fiberglass tape joints etc. Before I can paint. These are so helpful
Do you have a video on metal vs paper corner bead?
What an awesome video all his videos are good Vancouver is a great teacher been following this channel for the past 5 or 6 years thank you
Thanks 😊
Damn now I have to rip it out again and redo it
Such an ARTIST!
thanks so much!!!! huge help
Man, I love your vídeos but I have to say, you mix the mud VERY BAD! sorry hahaha
I mix it in the least amount of with the least amount of tools. It doesn’t matter if there is some lumps. They get worked out while finishing.
flood repair it looks like
I haven't used paper on joins in years. How do you plaster a wall with super tight wall paper? That removing the wall paper will end up gouging a good chunk of the drywall paper? In other words, it turned into a war zone once you got most of the wall paper hacked off? There is a way to do it. Pigment seal it, check it for bubbles or pops. If none then proceed to slap a crap load of long setting plaster on it. Spread it uniform out from a corner to 1 meter all the way up. Now here's the trick, you get a 912 cm by 45 m roll of fiberfuse. The biggest they make and from the bottom up pull out the fuse til you overlap the scotia or corner a bit. Once you're satisfied it's lined up as best as you can get it.
Gently but ever so slightly stick the fuse to the wall. Gently run your splayed out hand over it. You don't have to do it to the whole line of fuse. Just enough so it sticks. Push in the fuse at the bottom where it meets the skirting and simply cut it along the edge.
Now the really hard part and the most crucial part of the operation. Trowelling it in. I use a wide cheap kiddies pool brush i found at home to gently push in the fuse so it stays uniform. Do it once or twice. Anymore and you risk tearing it.
Once that's done, get your 16" or 18" flat and using 2 hands because you're going to muscle the plaster around under the fuse to fill up the lows and wipe out the highs all the while the fuse beds in. Don't rush, if you got long setting plaster. Say a 120 or 150 set. You've got time. You can tell a low by no wet sheen or if there's a high point where plaster is thicker you just muscle it outwards till it looks uniform. It's not a new trick for rendering flat. If your walls are sucked in and you never prefilled the voids. It will only follow the wall. It will still look unblemished once painted though.
It's the bedding in that takes the longest and you need to put a blower on it once you've finished it. It's takes days to dry if it's cold. A heater is preferable. Once dried. You get 80 grit pads for your sanding machine and give it a good consistent sand without cutting through the fuse. Lightly but no area left unmachined.
Now for the finishing coat. It will power suck in but you're only trowelling a light coat on. Slap it on thick and wipe it off. Once you start though. You don't stop til you've reached a corner or slimline edge. Once it's all done to your liking. Wait til dry.
Pole sand it lightly and run the light and sanding block over it to catch ridges and spots. Don't go mental and practically sand it all off.
Only 2 coats.
Comes out like new skin and painters love it while the wall is reinforced. I've yet to see anyone anywhere do a vid on how to fuse walls.
Don't worry about small overlaps when fusing when lining up the next sheet to the 1 you've just done. The machine sands out the overlap leaving a seamless run. I haven't seen a perfect 90' wall or level 5 flat fixing in this century lmao
I love hot mud, I tapped a 10 by 10 room, walls only with a 2-foot strip in the middle of the three walls given they tore out a backsplash and tear away up to the existing ceiling with 4 coats of hot mud, along with a finish coat of plus 3, sanded, primed, and painted the next day. I know guys who hate the stuff, their loss.. What's your preferred method of finishing drywall up to an existing popcorn ceiling? The opposite of one wall was the same at the ceiling but I didn't have 3 beads with me, so I applied paper tape as usual but left the ceiling dry, just to use it as a shield so to speak, I cut off when done and I think the tape came out tighter to the ceiling then the tear away, Thanks!
I usually flat tape and caulk when going up to texture.
💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
right on buds
You seem to love "hot mud". I don't for a few reasons, and you never address these. It's hard and time consuming, (a lot of time) to mix it in a pan to get all the lumps out to smooth mud. It's always a big guess at the ratio of water to mix. There is a time limit to use it. If you guess wrong on how much to mix, if it's not enough you have to spend the time and mix again. If you guess wrong and there is way too much and nowhere to put it on the wall you have to put it in the trash. And my biggest annoyance is, since it sets up you have to clean all your tools after every batch. You have to deal with none of this with mud in a bucket.
If you're trying to get a job done in a day or two, hot mud is the only way to go. Regular mud you have to wait a day for each coat while it dries. No one "likes" using hot mud, it's just a must if you have a lot to do in a short time.
Thanks!
you sir are a beauty
thanks for all the tips about all the stuff and things my guy
Thanks Ben!!! I did a soffit repair a couple weeks ago and totally doglegged it by about 1/4”. At least now I know how to fix it if the customer notices it.
Quick tip I would pinch the paper bead
I mean you could but I didn’t need to.
I love this style of vid. On the job, showing the setup and the flow. Im learning lots of tips and can trust the source cause look!!!
Thank you for your videos Ben. I learned to do my own drywall plastering from watching your videos. So easy to follow. I have saved a fortune. It's not 100% perfect but hey, only I know. And as you said, you have to learn how it feels. My favourite reminder, feather your edge. Remembering that is essential. Can you do a video how to block up a door?. Thank you.😊
Just what I was scratching my head wondering how to tackle it. Thank you from Missouri.
Just did this yesterday, what a timing 😂
Yo ur Ben Degros
Sure am
Thanks for sharing your expertise in such an accessible way. Have a great year ahead!
🙏👏👍💪
Perfect timing on this video. About to replace a one piece tub in more or less and alcove with a 4 piece tub and wall enclosure. One side has a partition wall separating it from the toilet and knew I would need to cut the existing corner bead about 2 feet up from the floor to slide the new tub in and was thinking about the process of joining the two corner beads together so not to have to replace the corner bead all the way up to ceiling height if it was possible.
I’ve been watching you for a while now and because of you I’ve been able to do good mud work thank you sir
❤❤❤❤
Another good idea I learned is to put a small corner piece behind so it holds the old and new corner together
1:55 That's called a lady bar in my circles in Seattle.
What situations do you put glue in your quick-set mud? Why not this time?
It depends on the mud more than anything. Hamilton is a great brand that has never caused me adhesion issues.
Thanks Ben. We have the Beadex brand here in Seattle. After watching your videos and The Kilted Guy's, I use Titebond III in pretty much all my hot mud for repairs now. Prior to that, we had some issues with the mud not sticking to previous paint. Have to watch the amount you use though as it seems to turn 90 minute mud into 5-10 minute mud.
Actually fun you
Thanks. Fun you too :)