@@marioalvaradosanfeliu1132 You will have more range of gears to adjust better for the road. Also, if you ride in a group ride with roadies, a 2x will be needed as a 1x gives to much of a jump between gears.
I’ve got a mountain bike with a 2x11 set up and I love it. I chose that over a 1x11 which I honestly see as a downgrade. My 2x11 has a wider spread of gears and more actual distinct gear ratios.
I got a gravel bike as a "do it all" bike - so for that 2X wins every time - whether road riding with my club or bikepacking for multi-day rides (from Brussels to Sweden this summer) I want both the range and the small steps a 2X system offers and it doesn't really hold me back on the trails when I'm riding off road either.
This is really helpful. I'm in the market rn for a bike to use on the road and my fellow riders suggest gravel. I'm new to road bikes and have only ever ridden mountain. Literally road a non-mtb for the first time in my life last week (test rode a Diverge Sport, Checkpoint ALR5, and Checkpoint driftless = 1x version of alr5) and I have NO desire to ride a bike that light on any kind of heavy trails. I have fuel ex 5 dedicated for trails. This gravel bike will be mainly used for the road and i'm torn b/c I don't want to go back to a 2x (my first mtb was a 2x8 hard tail) and have to deal w/a front derailleur again BUT I also like the idea of having more gears to work with...
I was hesitant to get a 1x setup, but with the SRAM AXS ETAP system running 42 in the front and 10-52 rear the range is fantastic and less shifting off road (like a MTN bike) is nice.
1x GRX WolfTooth 46T in front, Helix 9-46 in Rear , XT shifter & Derailleur and this is all the Range I need for both Tarmac & Gravel. Yes not perfect Cadence Steps, But No Front Mech So it works for my Taste, Cheers !
Some 1x setups are designed with exactly the same jumps as 2x between the fastest few gears, so the concerns about compromised cadence are exaggerated. Of course if you are pushing to achieve a given time on road then 2x will win out.
If i am going to put a 1X on a gravel bike, then i'd rather ride a 1X MTB. The point of a gravel bike is that it is a go-anywhere bike, including paved roads. 1X sucks for paved road riding and even sucks on hard packed dirt roads; unless your rides are short and at an XC MTB's pace. If i was gonna ride at that pace, then i'll just ride an XC MTB, same slow pace but with better off-road capability, better looks too.
2X holds the mechanical advantages that matter. Greater range, smaller steps between gears, chain line efficiency, and larger chainrings are more power efficient. I can even see the case for the 3X.
I must agree with you. In the case of a 3 X. It really knowing when to use any combination of the two. For example big ring middle or middle ring small ring paired with an 11X36 or 11X40 at the back
I was totally against 1x drivetrains until I got a bike with one. My new Marin Kentfield 2 hybrid has a 1x10 drivetrain, and I have to tell you, I like it. Marin did a SPLENDID job with choosing the gear ratios! They're well suited to the kind of riding I do, and they're well spaced too. The jumps in gearing aren't noticeable, particularly during climbs; when doing a downshift going uphill, the lost momentum perfectly matches my new gear. Upshifting, particularly in the midrange, isn't much different than on the 2x or 3x setups on my other bikes. I think 1x drivetrains are growing on me... 😁😁
Always used the 3x system on my MTB and 2x system on my roadbike. Never had any issue for years that I have been using them. The reliability and flexibility of going really fast when you want to and climbing with ease as needed always puts the.... becoming endangered 2x and 3x chain rings.... on my top choice because it is just there when you need it anytime and big jumps and scaling down weight are really just a minor excuse just for me.
Excellent. Simplicity and reliability wins it for me: 1x defo. Both my road bikes wear a 2x9 crankset and the second chain ring rarely gets used: complexity of use, mechanical complexity and weight for nothing even if I acknowledge the comments made by Bob Rogers in what concerns chain line efficiency
A big point a lot of people tend to forget is replacement parts for bikepacking. most people that go 1x go for sram because the range is just a lot better on the cassette, or the new campa ekar group for the same reason (9-42). but those are 12 and 13 speed drivetrains which the replacement parts are a lot harder to find than 11 speed or preferably less.
Currently riding a 7 speed 1x bike with 44T chainring and 12-28T casette. Been using it for several months now with a mixture of flats and not so steep roads. I find the simplicity of 1x great as less parts to think about like the front derailleur. Might get another 1x bike soon. 🙂
I bought an old hybrid bike flat bar with a U Benc on the front. It has a triple chainring on the front 11-34 on the back. 43c panaracer king tyres. It’s heavy but The granny gear on the front has helped on steep gradients. It’s not what you ride it’s how you ride and pick your gears for the terrain. Aero means 💩 out on the trails, power, fitness, cadence, what’s inside that counts
I hope the hype is soon over with the 1by systems on gravel bikes. It`s hard to find new gravel bikes with 2by system. Most gravel riders I see are mostly riding on roads or moderate dirt roads. Also bikepacking is very trendy. For this purpose a 2by would be my choice for sure. You get better gear ratio`s and the little bit of extra weight really doesn`t matter in real world. Never had any issues to clean or operate the front mech. Don`t know what the problem is for most people stating that this is an issue... I believe the most benefit of 1by is for the manufacturers to save costs on the bikes.
I use my Trek Domane for gravel riding. I also live in a very hilly area, so I'm constantly shifting as long flat stretches don't exist around town. My Ultegra (2x) setup has been reliable, although I am constantly shifting front and rear to manage the hills. I would suggest reviewing a Pinion setup with the Gates carbon belt drive, as that would be very interesting to see how it compares to either a 1x or a 2x setup.
1X all day long... MTB 32t w/11-42t, Hybrid 36t w/ 11-42t and Gravel w/ 40t w/ 11-46t. I ain't no roadie, and I ain't no pro. I just like the simplicity. It works for me.
I'll take the closer spacing of the grx 2x .. just because i like being at closer spacings for keeping myself happy with cadence. just personal pref.. on the mtb i have 1x but on gravel / road .. for me it's 2x for certain. been riding 2x road since 1979... never had a front mech fail.
easier to change (and less load/stress to derailleur system) to lower gear by dumping the tension and dropping front mech by one shift vs continuous tensioned upshifts of the rear mech.
@@owenjohnson5030 absolutely it knows what I want before I do it. It took maybe a week to get use to it, and let it just do its thing. But I'm not going back to mechanical. I have mech grx on the family bike but I'm not buying a new bike without it.
1x every time, the simplicity and also something you didn’t mention is it is 10x easier to clean the good old UK winter mud and crud off your bike! Unless you are a pro there is no need for 2x on a gravel bike, especially in the uk without our weather. 🌧 My Kanzo Fast may be 1x but it can do group rides on the road and keep up easy, the jumps you don’t notice after a while
If i was gonna ride at a 1X's pace then i'd rather ride an XC MTB. Same "non-pro" (or whatever) pace, better off road capability, better ride quality from the suspension. Don't need to be a pro to realize the pacing advantage of a 2X. Better pacing on both flat roads and hill climbs. I've used 3X, 2X, and 1X, and 2X is my favorite. Only reason for me to use a 1X is if i am wary of chain drops, but that's where the XC MTB comes in.
I've just purchased my 1st gravel bike and was split between x1 and x2 im not expert my any means nor am I some sort of lycra waring triathlete. I'm 60% road 40% gravel/woods trails hence I went for the x2. My son has a x1 on his trail bike and says its awful.
Depends on Terrain.... 1x lighter. However, for the finery of shifting, hard to beat 2x......racing vs riding..... pendulum swings from simplicity of 1x to 2x and back again several times.....for me, hard to beat di2 1x 44 in the front, 42 in the back..... The problem with 1x was that it was sometimes hard to get a front ring that doesn't spin out and reach capacity on long downhills....
I agree. I built my “everywhere” bike around a deore/deore Xt 3x10 group set. I can crank 50kph (11-40) with the wind at my back or spin up a steep embankment (40-22) and everything in between. My middle chainring (30) is my workhorse.
I have both setups 1x grx 800 and 2x 105 and much prefer the 2x setup in fact I wouldn't have a 1x again the jump in cadence on road sections is to much.
I choose both with 2 specifics bikes from Ridley A GRX subcompact first and 10 months later a 1x11 sram apex After all my summer rides I prefer the simple one
I've had 1X on a couple of bikes and after a few months have gone back to a 2X set up. I found 1X would stretch a chain in around 1000 miles which wasn't ideal. When going back to 2X I worked out it weighed about 50 grams heavier so not even an argument about weight savings. The sram 1X rear mech is quite heavy so going back to 2X with a new shifter and second chainring only added a small amount of weight for more gears. Just cannot see the appeal of 1X.
if I was racing, which I'm not, I'd probably go for a 1 x. Just seems a quicker way to get the correct gear. However, I'm not, and I've got plenty of time to work out whether the terrain better suits my small or large chainwheel. In fact my MTB has 3 chainrings so I"m spoilt for choice.
I'm almost certain that 46/31 is not a 17t jump. The 15t jump may still be "Massive" as the presenter says but many people are used to the 16t jump of a 50/34 at this stage so how notable is it really.
If you're commuting to work and it's pretty flat, then you don't need a bunch of gears. A 1x7 would work just fine. But if you want to have a bike that you expect the world from then I would go with a 3x with a 22t on the chainring to steamroll and crush the mountains. 3 Chainrings to Rule Them ALL
1x is just cycle industry marketing convincing people they need to spend more money. In the same was as the 5 yearly increase in rear sprocket numbers convices people they need 11sp or 12sp. For off road 9sp or 10sp is better as the rear mechs and shifters are less sensitive and better able to cope with being knocked out of tune.
HAVING MADE MY BIKE 1X FOR 5 YEARS AROUND TOWN I CAN NOT COMPLAIN MUCH other than the odd chain drop peddling backwards ,chain keep n narrow wide chainring will fix the issue :) Though a mullet drive up front will give you a bail out gear for steep hills if needed 4?/ 30 while allowing a simpler 11-34 at the back ;)
I've currently got a road bike with a Di2 2x11 Ultegra. I love this system. I now have on order a gravel bike with the Di2 2x12 Ultegra. I'll keep my 2x over a 1x because I like the smaller steps between the gearing. With the Di2 I only use the right shifter for all my shifting, which makes it feel like a 1x.
I never get this argument about 1x simplicity, reliability, I mean how difficult is it to move your left shifter now and then. Never had problems with a front mech & on the odd occasion something happens remove it and put the chain on one of your chainrings, "simplicity"! Your simply buying into what the manufacturers are trying to push to get you to buy another bike. Also gear jumps on the road are too big with 1x set up.
Most stupid argument is about simplicity. Maybe one shouldn´t ride a bike at all if it is too complicated to use the shift lever on the left. But it`s great for the industry to save costs on 1x system but keeping the price of the whole bike the same. But it`s an advantage to save a few grams in weight, have less overall gear range, have big steps in between and pay the same as for a proper 2x.
2 by wins everytime for me higher top gear for the road & low enough for the climbs,why limit your gearing range by using a 42/11 when you can have a 48 or 50/11.
Funny how everyone claims that a 1x is lighter overall but they are adding actual mass to the rotational weight of the wheel which does affect pedaling performance. I have both setups on different bikes. Truth is you do feel the extra rotational weight more, in contrast to the few grams of a front derailleur and shifter.
Video is great timing as I'm in the process of buying a gravel bike, and due to the limited stock, considering whether 1x will be ok for me...? I ride a regular 30km route which encompasses tarmac, canal tow paths, gravel, grass and light MTB trails. I'm not a road cyclist but wanted the flexibility of a 2x to be able to join the odd ride and be able to achieve a higher top speed with a larger front chain ring. Based on what stock is available currently within my budget of £2k, trying to decide between a Norco Search XR A1 (2x) or Cube Nuroad EX 2022 (1x) both retail for £1599 and otherwise share almost identical components.... I think I've answered my own question lol
@@brucekeegan5433 meant jumps between gears. If you’re with compromising on that by running a 11-40 cassette, then how much of a stretch would it be to run 10-50 1x?
This bike was really easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
If your gravel bike is going to be mainly for off-road. 1x will do just fine. However, if you're going to use on the road often. Get a 2x.
for what exactly? WIll a 2x be faster on road?
@@marioalvaradosanfeliu1132 You will have more range of gears to adjust better for the road. Also, if you ride in a group ride with roadies, a 2x will be needed as a 1x gives to much of a jump between gears.
I’ve got a mountain bike with a 2x11 set up and I love it. I chose that over a 1x11 which I honestly see as a downgrade. My 2x11 has a wider spread of gears and more actual distinct gear ratios.
I got a gravel bike as a "do it all" bike - so for that 2X wins every time - whether road riding with my club or bikepacking for multi-day rides (from Brussels to Sweden this summer) I want both the range and the small steps a 2X system offers and it doesn't really hold me back on the trails when I'm riding off road either.
Hi 👋 hi 👋 I hope 🤞🏿 and u
Yes. I'd only put a 1X on an MTB. For a bike that i also plan to use on a paved road, i got to have that big chainring.
This is really helpful. I'm in the market rn for a bike to use on the road and my fellow riders suggest gravel. I'm new to road bikes and have only ever ridden mountain. Literally road a non-mtb for the first time in my life last week (test rode a Diverge Sport, Checkpoint ALR5, and Checkpoint driftless = 1x version of alr5) and I have NO desire to ride a bike that light on any kind of heavy trails. I have fuel ex 5 dedicated for trails. This gravel bike will be mainly used for the road and i'm torn b/c I don't want to go back to a 2x (my first mtb was a 2x8 hard tail) and have to deal w/a front derailleur again BUT I also like the idea of having more gears to work with...
I prefer my late 80's mtb that has been converted to gravel running a 3x9. Never any issues with reliability, and easy to get the perfect cadence.
I was hesitant to get a 1x setup, but with the SRAM AXS ETAP system running 42 in the front and 10-52 rear the range is fantastic and less shifting off road (like a MTN bike) is nice.
1x GRX WolfTooth 46T in front, Helix 9-46 in Rear , XT shifter & Derailleur and this is all the Range I need for both Tarmac & Gravel. Yes not perfect Cadence Steps, But No Front Mech So it works for my Taste, Cheers !
Some 1x setups are designed with exactly the same jumps as 2x between the fastest few gears, so the concerns about compromised cadence are exaggerated.
Of course if you are pushing to achieve a given time on road then 2x will win out.
All my bikes have the 1 chainring system and I love the simplicity. It looks great too
If i am going to put a 1X on a gravel bike, then i'd rather ride a 1X MTB.
The point of a gravel bike is that it is a go-anywhere bike, including paved roads. 1X sucks for paved road riding and even sucks on hard packed dirt roads; unless your rides are short and at an XC MTB's pace. If i was gonna ride at that pace, then i'll just ride an XC MTB, same slow pace but with better off-road capability, better looks too.
@@sepg5084 what is the main difference? avg pace?
1x is much easier to clean up. This is very important for me. If you don't mind the jumps 1x is better.
As a person that is still riding a 45 old bike with 52/42 and 14/28 2x6 all these systems mean a massive upgrade :D
Nice Video!
2X holds the mechanical advantages that matter. Greater range, smaller steps between gears, chain line efficiency, and larger chainrings are more power efficient. I can even see the case for the 3X.
I must agree with you. In the case of a 3 X. It really knowing when to use any combination of the two. For example big ring middle or middle ring small ring paired with an 11X36 or 11X40 at the back
I was totally against 1x drivetrains until I got a bike with one. My new Marin Kentfield 2 hybrid has a 1x10 drivetrain, and I have to tell you, I like it. Marin did a SPLENDID job with choosing the gear ratios! They're well suited to the kind of riding I do, and they're well spaced too. The jumps in gearing aren't noticeable, particularly during climbs; when doing a downshift going uphill, the lost momentum perfectly matches my new gear. Upshifting, particularly in the midrange, isn't much different than on the 2x or 3x setups on my other bikes. I think 1x drivetrains are growing on me... 😁😁
Always used the 3x system on my MTB and 2x system on my roadbike. Never had any issue for years that I have been using them. The reliability and flexibility of going really fast when you want to and climbing with ease as needed always puts the.... becoming endangered 2x and 3x chain rings.... on my top choice because it is just there when you need it anytime and big jumps and scaling down weight are really just a minor excuse just for me.
Excellent. Simplicity and reliability wins it for me: 1x defo. Both my road bikes wear a 2x9 crankset and the second chain ring rarely gets used: complexity of use, mechanical complexity and weight for nothing even if I acknowledge the comments made by Bob Rogers in what concerns chain line efficiency
A big point a lot of people tend to forget is replacement parts for bikepacking. most people that go 1x go for sram because the range is just a lot better on the cassette, or the new campa ekar group for the same reason (9-42). but those are 12 and 13 speed drivetrains which the replacement parts are a lot harder to find than 11 speed or preferably less.
Going for the 1x setup like the SRAM XPLR eTap AXS.
What about the top speed comparison on flat?
Currently riding a 7 speed 1x bike with 44T chainring and 12-28T casette. Been using it for several months now with a mixture of flats and not so steep roads. I find the simplicity of 1x great as less parts to think about like the front derailleur. Might get another 1x bike soon. 🙂
I bought an old hybrid bike flat bar with a U Benc on the front. It has a triple chainring on the front 11-34 on the back. 43c panaracer king tyres. It’s heavy but The granny gear on the front has helped on steep gradients.
It’s not what you ride it’s how you ride and pick your gears for the terrain. Aero means 💩 out on the trails, power, fitness, cadence, what’s inside that counts
I hope the hype is soon over with the 1by systems on gravel bikes. It`s hard to find new gravel bikes with 2by system. Most gravel riders I see are mostly riding on roads or moderate dirt roads. Also bikepacking is very trendy. For this purpose a 2by would be my choice for sure. You get better gear ratio`s and the little bit of extra weight really doesn`t matter in real world. Never had any issues to clean or operate the front mech. Don`t know what the problem is for most people stating that this is an issue...
I believe the most benefit of 1by is for the manufacturers to save costs on the bikes.
I use my Trek Domane for gravel riding. I also live in a very hilly area, so I'm constantly shifting as long flat stretches don't exist around town. My Ultegra (2x) setup has been reliable, although I am constantly shifting front and rear to manage the hills.
I would suggest reviewing a Pinion setup with the Gates carbon belt drive, as that would be very interesting to see how it compares to either a 1x or a 2x setup.
1X all day long... MTB 32t w/11-42t, Hybrid 36t w/ 11-42t and Gravel w/ 40t w/ 11-46t.
I ain't no roadie, and I ain't no pro. I just like the simplicity. It works for me.
Ive been on 1 x xplr but going to change to 2 x as do a lot of road and doesnt have enough ratio
I'll take the closer spacing of the grx 2x .. just because i like being at closer spacings for keeping myself happy with cadence. just personal pref.. on the mtb i have 1x but on gravel / road .. for me it's 2x for certain. been riding 2x road since 1979... never had a front mech fail.
easier to change (and less load/stress to derailleur system) to lower gear by dumping the tension and dropping front mech by one shift vs continuous tensioned upshifts of the rear mech.
3X one luv!
Hi im new at bikes and i have this mtb that i want to convert into gravel bike but i dont know what parts i need to change
I have on my gravel di2 grx 2x with an xtr 11-40 cassette. Mtn bike has axs 10-52.
Don't you love the simplicity of Di2? I never touch my left shifter.
@@owenjohnson5030 absolutely it knows what I want before I do it. It took maybe a week to get use to it, and let it just do its thing. But I'm not going back to mechanical. I have mech grx on the family bike but I'm not buying a new bike without it.
1x every time, the simplicity and also something you didn’t mention is it is 10x easier to clean the good old UK winter mud and crud off your bike!
Unless you are a pro there is no need for 2x on a gravel bike, especially in the uk without our weather. 🌧
My Kanzo Fast may be 1x but it can do group rides on the road and keep up easy, the jumps you don’t notice after a while
If i was gonna ride at a 1X's pace then i'd rather ride an XC MTB. Same "non-pro" (or whatever) pace, better off road capability, better ride quality from the suspension.
Don't need to be a pro to realize the pacing advantage of a 2X. Better pacing on both flat roads and hill climbs. I've used 3X, 2X, and 1X, and 2X is my favorite. Only reason for me to use a 1X is if i am wary of chain drops, but that's where the XC MTB comes in.
I've just purchased my 1st gravel bike and was split between x1 and x2 im not expert my any means nor am I some sort of lycra waring triathlete. I'm 60% road 40% gravel/woods trails hence I went for the x2. My son has a x1 on his trail bike and says its awful.
Depends on Terrain.... 1x lighter. However, for the finery of shifting, hard to beat 2x......racing vs riding..... pendulum swings from simplicity of 1x to 2x and back again several times.....for me, hard to beat di2 1x 44 in the front, 42 in the back..... The problem with 1x was that it was sometimes hard to get a front ring that doesn't spin out and reach capacity on long downhills....
Simple choice for me: neither! My gravel / bikepacking rig has a good ol’ triple.
I’m not racing with it.
I agree. I built my “everywhere” bike around a deore/deore Xt 3x10 group set. I can crank 50kph (11-40) with the wind at my back or spin up a steep embankment (40-22) and everything in between. My middle chainring (30) is my workhorse.
I have both setups 1x grx 800 and 2x 105 and much prefer the 2x setup in fact I wouldn't have a 1x again the jump in cadence on road sections is to much.
Where was this filmed?
El marco es de aluminio?
I choose both with 2 specifics bikes from Ridley
A GRX subcompact first and 10 months later a 1x11 sram apex
After all my summer rides I prefer the simple one
2x here. 52x36 out front, 11x42 out back. A gear for every occasion. 2018 Spesh' Diverge.
I've had 1X on a couple of bikes and after a few months have gone back to a 2X set up. I found 1X would stretch a chain in around 1000 miles which wasn't ideal. When going back to 2X I worked out it weighed about 50 grams heavier so not even an argument about weight savings. The sram 1X rear mech is quite heavy so going back to 2X with a new shifter and second chainring only added a small amount of weight for more gears. Just cannot see the appeal of 1X.
if I was racing, which I'm not, I'd probably go for a 1 x. Just seems a quicker way to get the correct gear. However, I'm not, and I've got plenty of time to work out whether the terrain better suits my small or large chainwheel. In fact my MTB has 3 chainrings so I"m spoilt for choice.
I'm almost certain that 46/31 is not a 17t jump.
The 15t jump may still be "Massive" as the presenter says but many people are used to the 16t jump of a 50/34 at this stage so how notable is it really.
Not everyone does trail and some roads we ride are rough this is the perfect bike
Keep safe always ..
If you're commuting to work and it's pretty flat, then you don't need a bunch of gears. A 1x7 would work just fine.
But if you want to have a bike that you expect the world from then I would go with a 3x with a 22t on the chainring to steamroll and crush the mountains.
3 Chainrings to Rule Them ALL
1x is just cycle industry marketing convincing people they need to spend more money. In the same was as the 5 yearly increase in rear sprocket numbers convices people they need 11sp or 12sp. For off road 9sp or 10sp is better as the rear mechs and shifters are less sensitive and better able to cope with being knocked out of tune.
HAVING MADE MY BIKE 1X FOR 5 YEARS AROUND TOWN I CAN NOT COMPLAIN MUCH other than the odd chain drop peddling backwards ,chain keep n narrow wide chainring will fix the issue :) Though a mullet drive up front will give you a bail out gear for steep hills if needed 4?/ 30 while allowing a simpler 11-34 at the back ;)
Most 2x have a chain ring guard. Why 1x never have? 🤔
I've currently got a road bike with a Di2 2x11 Ultegra. I love this system. I now have on order a gravel bike with the Di2 2x12 Ultegra. I'll keep my 2x over a 1x because I like the smaller steps between the gearing. With the Di2 I only use the right shifter for all my shifting, which makes it feel like a 1x.
I never get this argument about 1x simplicity, reliability, I mean how difficult is it to move your left shifter now and then. Never had problems with a front mech & on the odd occasion something happens remove it and put the chain on one of your chainrings, "simplicity"! Your simply buying into what the manufacturers are trying to push to get you to buy another bike.
Also gear jumps on the road are too big with 1x set up.
Most stupid argument is about simplicity. Maybe one shouldn´t ride a bike at all if it is too complicated to use the shift lever on the left. But it`s great for the industry to save costs on 1x system but keeping the price of the whole bike the same. But it`s an advantage to save a few grams in weight, have less overall gear range, have big steps in between and pay the same as for a proper 2x.
What about 3x?
2 by wins everytime for me higher top gear for the road & low enough for the climbs,why limit your gearing range by using a 42/11 when you can have a 48 or 50/11.
Campag Ekar 1x13 on a 3T exploro and you have a do it all bike for sure
Funny how everyone claims that a 1x is lighter overall but they are adding actual mass to the rotational weight of the wheel which does affect pedaling performance. I have both setups on different bikes. Truth is you do feel the extra rotational weight more, in contrast to the few grams of a front derailleur and shifter.
1X or 2X manufacturers need to put lower (easier) gears on bikes. Most of us ride a desk 40 hours a week and rarely pin a number on.
Video is great timing as I'm in the process of buying a gravel bike, and due to the limited stock, considering whether 1x will be ok for me...? I ride a regular 30km route which encompasses tarmac, canal tow paths, gravel, grass and light MTB trails. I'm not a road cyclist but wanted the flexibility of a 2x to be able to join the odd ride and be able to achieve a higher top speed with a larger front chain ring. Based on what stock is available currently within my budget of £2k, trying to decide between a Norco Search XR A1 (2x) or Cube Nuroad EX 2022 (1x) both retail for £1599 and otherwise share almost identical components.... I think I've answered my own question lol
2X compact with 11- 40 cassette best set up no compromise.
Where are you going to find a rear derailleur that can actually handle that? Plus you are compromising on jumps which is the biggest advantage of 2x.
@@johnm91326 I am running shimano r8000. You would need a clutch rear derailleur for jumps, RX 800.
@@brucekeegan5433 meant jumps between gears. If you’re with compromising on that by running a 11-40 cassette, then how much of a stretch would it be to run 10-50 1x?
Mine is 3x
Got both the 2 X wins but I still enjoy my 1 X
Seems to me that 1x is a bit ‘emperor’s new clothes’
1X is not for me, I tried for years and it is not beneficial, slows me down on the flats.
1 x forever, I switched my road bike and will never look back.
Weight issues
For gravel 2x for sure. Versatility is a priority. With 1x in gravel you get stuck easily.
Lets face it, 1x appeals to people who like to ride the short bus.
2x is dead. It is just a matter of time. Think about disc brakes...
It's a very slow start to this video
And “times it”? C’mon now……..
1x is useless and overrated...it's just mtb not real gravel!
This bike was really easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.