I bought an Enya 29 in the PX in South Korea while serving on the DMZ on Camp Dodge in 1968. I fly it one time. It was on the helipad in front of battalion headquarters 2/23 rd inf....2nd infantry. Recon was coming in and stopped to watch. I ran this motor three times. Once to break it in. Once when I flew it, and once more when I got home in 1969 to show my younger brother how the carb works. I still have it in my room in a box. It’s 53 years old now and only run three times. For a decent bid, I would sell it. Look me up here. I am in stockton, calif.
When as a youth I first started in C/L in June 1971, the two engines most commonly used for sport by us kids and seen (AU) on C/L flying fields were the OS MAX 15 III and Enya 15 III. I had a couple of OS Max 15 IIIs, but an 09 in the Enya which was a beautifully cast and built peices of kit. By then, OS had moved on to the OS Max 15 which was essentially the same design but with fully cast crankcase and cylinder fins but which too had been obsoleted by 1989, and the then current 15 FP-S. Along with four OS 15 FP-S, I bought two Enya 15 IVs when I returned to C/L in 1989. Not sure what the Enya II & IV differences were. They looked very similar as I recall. In 1990 I managed to pick up a batch of four post model baffle piston OS 15s assembled in the factory from surplus parts. Those old sintered steel piston Enyas take forever and a day to run in. Needs to be done on the ground. Until they are, they willl overheat & lose power in the air. Although I used to initially bench run my 15 FP-S, with their ABN tapered piston construction you could pretty much just fly them out of the box and run them in in the air if wanted.
So glad I watched this thank you again David I have the same issue with a 09 MKIII I think it must be because it's had very little run time and the previous owner gave up on it before getting things bedded in It's just won't get going and behaves very much like this as in the prop keeps coming to an abrupt stop and it ends up flooding to point its out the air bleed I have posted a video and description on my page of the only run I got out of it after seven hours trying please forgive the video it's my first ever upload
Also very interesting read on correct break in process I have also found my 09 will not run unless it's a idle bar glow plug I tried ten different plugs and the idle bar was the only one it will run with
I keep my fuel sealed and in my house. It would be very difficult for any significant amount of water to accumulate in my bottles. I have used fuel several years old that was sealed in a bottle and in my garage with no change in how my engines ran. Keeping it sealed is the most important thing
Same here. "Tornado" fuel (just the one my local dealer had, since in Germany it's illegal to GET it in the mail .. not a transport thing, but it's poison and has therefore by handed over in person) .. sealed metal can, 5 years old now .. no difference at all. Friend once got a sealed, never opened, metal can of old "Graupner Titan G12" (12% nitro, pure castor oil) from around the 1970s judging the design of the can. Worked just fine.
Ignorance. The Enya instruction manuals do not speak of the proper way to break their engines in. I had no clue in this video either. Now I read this. adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=10
David McIntire YES! That site is fantastic. It describes what's happening to those engines during break-in. I changed my methods after reading that as well. So far I only tested it on one engine.
I have this engine and its brand new and never ran, its so tight that I can't start it by hand or starter. It pops with the starter and fired once for a second then died, any advice?
Those older designed Enya engines are very tight and require VERY careful break-in for long life. Follow the break-in instruction s precisely. Please read this article very carefully. I know it says foe diesel engines but that Enya has the same metallurgy and needs to be broken in properly.. adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=10 Yes it is tight, but you have to get it running for a couple of minutes and then it will begin to loosen up.
David McIntire Thanks for the info! I will keep trying to fire it up. I read else where that using a blow dryer or heat gun would loosen the engine prior to starting to make it easier to start. Do you recommend this?
The chief of a fuel factory says not to use Methanol fuel which is older than 6 months. The water from air humidity goes into the fuel so the fuel does not burn properly after some time. How long do you use fuel after buying it?
I guess the chief of a fuel factory would say that! Interestingly, piston engines in WW2 fighters had an "emergency power boost" facility, which was, quite simply, water injection. I have run ten-year old fuel with no problems. If you are really concerned about the water levels in your methanol fuel, freeze it. The water will separate and form ice which can be scooped off.
+Charles Hurhaus Hurhaus: The methanol seems to be a very good antifreeze additive for water. I mixed old cool power fuel with 20% water and froze it (-18°C, -1°F). After 24 hour nothing of the mixture was frozen .The fuel was liquid as before. Nothing seperated.
Now that is an interesting experiment. Alcohol doesn't freeze very easily, so there must not have been enough water in the mixture. That is about what Cool Power is worth, just to experiment with. I would never run it long term in any of my engines.
@David: I would like to use the old cool power fuel containing the 20% water for an engine test. Just to see, if the engine starts. Do you think I should do it?
I bought an Enya 29 in the PX in South Korea while serving on the DMZ on Camp Dodge in 1968. I fly it one time. It was on the helipad in front of battalion headquarters 2/23 rd inf....2nd infantry. Recon was coming in and stopped to watch. I ran this motor three times. Once to break it in. Once when I flew it, and once more when I got home in 1969 to show my younger brother how the carb works. I still have it in my room in a box. It’s 53 years old now and only run three times.
For a decent bid, I would sell it. Look me up here. I am in stockton, calif.
When as a youth I first started in C/L in June 1971, the two engines most commonly used for sport by us kids and seen (AU) on C/L flying fields were the OS MAX 15 III and Enya 15 III. I had a couple of OS Max 15 IIIs, but an 09 in the Enya which was a beautifully cast and built peices of kit. By then, OS had moved on to the OS Max 15 which was essentially the same design but with fully cast crankcase and cylinder fins but which too had been obsoleted by 1989, and the then current 15 FP-S. Along with four OS 15 FP-S, I bought two Enya 15 IVs when I returned to C/L in 1989. Not sure what the Enya II & IV differences were. They looked very similar as I recall.
In 1990 I managed to pick up a batch of four post model baffle piston OS 15s assembled in the factory from surplus parts. Those old sintered steel piston Enyas take forever and a day to run in. Needs to be done on the ground. Until they are, they willl overheat & lose power in the air. Although I used to initially bench run my 15 FP-S, with their ABN tapered piston construction you could pretty much just fly them out of the box and run them in in the air if wanted.
So glad I watched this thank you again David
I have the same issue with a 09 MKIII I think it must be because it's had very little run time and the previous owner gave up on it before getting things bedded in
It's just won't get going and behaves very much like this as in the prop keeps coming to an abrupt stop and it ends up flooding to point its out the air bleed
I have posted a video and description on my page of the only run I got out of it after seven hours trying please forgive the video it's my first ever upload
Also very interesting read on correct break in process
I have also found my 09 will not run unless it's a idle bar glow plug
I tried ten different plugs and the idle bar was the only one it will run with
I keep my fuel sealed and in my house. It would be very difficult for any significant amount of water to accumulate in my bottles. I have used fuel several years old that was sealed in a bottle and in my garage with no change in how my engines ran. Keeping it sealed is the most important thing
Same here. "Tornado" fuel (just the one my local dealer had, since in Germany it's illegal to GET it in the mail .. not a transport thing, but it's poison and has therefore by handed over in person) .. sealed metal can, 5 years old now .. no difference at all.
Friend once got a sealed, never opened, metal can of old "Graupner Titan G12" (12% nitro, pure castor oil) from around the 1970s judging the design of the can. Worked just fine.
I see a lot of videos of lapped engines breaking in - but very few actually heat cycle the piston and cylinder. Curious why that is.
Ignorance. The Enya instruction manuals do not speak of the proper way to break their engines in. I had no clue in this video either. Now I read this. adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=10
David McIntire YES! That site is fantastic. It describes what's happening to those engines during break-in. I changed my methods after reading that as well. So far I only tested it on one engine.
Do you still own this enya 15 engine? Could you please run it with the Omega FAI 0%? And show the max rpm using 0% and 10% Nitro fuel?
No I do not still have this engine.
I have this engine and its brand new and never ran, its so tight that I can't start it by hand or starter. It pops with the starter and fired once for a second then died, any advice?
Those older designed Enya engines are very tight and require VERY careful break-in for long life. Follow the break-in instruction s precisely. Please read this article very carefully. I know it says foe diesel engines but that Enya has the same metallurgy and needs to be broken in properly..
adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=10
Yes it is tight, but you have to get it running for a couple of minutes and then it will begin to loosen up.
David McIntire Thanks for the info! I will keep trying to fire it up. I read else where that using a blow dryer or heat gun would loosen the engine prior to starting to make it easier to start. Do you recommend this?
Alexander Perez It won't hurt the engine.
David McIntire Thanks for the advice, fired it up. Had a bad glow plug that's why I couldn't start it.
The chief of a fuel factory says not to use Methanol fuel which is older than 6 months. The water from air humidity goes into the fuel so the fuel does not burn properly after some time. How long do you use fuel after buying it?
I guess the chief of a fuel factory would say that! Interestingly, piston engines in WW2 fighters had an "emergency power boost" facility, which was, quite simply, water injection. I have run ten-year old fuel with no problems.
If you are really concerned about the water levels in your methanol fuel, freeze it. The water will separate and form ice which can be scooped off.
Freezing the fuel seems to be an easy method to separate the water. I will try it and see what happens.
+Charles Hurhaus Hurhaus: The methanol seems to be a very good antifreeze additive for water. I mixed old cool power fuel with 20% water and froze it (-18°C, -1°F). After 24 hour nothing of the mixture was frozen .The fuel was liquid as before. Nothing seperated.
Now that is an interesting experiment. Alcohol doesn't freeze very easily, so there must not have been enough water in the mixture. That is about what Cool Power is worth, just to experiment with. I would never run it long term in any of my engines.
@David: I would like to use the old cool power fuel containing the 20% water for an engine test. Just to see, if the engine starts. Do you think I should do it?