XJ6 Series III Ignition tune up
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- In this video we will be going over a compression test, Cap and rotor replacement, checking the electronic ignition gap and adjusting the timing.
How to put the spark back in your Jag
• Here's how to put the ...
Numbers 1 and 6 fire at the same time so take your pick. 6 is a bit easier to get to. Thank you for watching my videos I hope you found the content helpful.
cheers!
It's very good Help .My Jaguar Thank you very much
Thank you! Hopefully this will get your Jaguar back on the road. Leave a comment and share your success.
Great content! Keep it up, looking forward to the video working on getting the fueling right
Thank you for the kind words :) the fuel system is on my video to do list - probably a month or so out. I've gotta get this darn IRS completed - I'm so close.
Stay tuned ! :)
I subscribed and have 2 per 3 jags, I was trying to find your other videos but do not see them, great work Regards George K Australia
Other videos? which ones maybe I can help.
Thank you very much for subscribing!!
Sorry, I had to rewatch the video to figure out what you are on about. :)
The spark plug / fuel system video I haven't done yet. I'm not 100% that I'm not the cause when I deleted the air pump. Between IRS videos, I'm looking into this till.
Thank you for subscribing. If you ticked the notification bell you'll be notified of my next video.
Again, thank you for subscribing to Jag Mods!
Hi.Greetings from Cape Town,S Africa.Just discovered your very informative channel and subscribed.Do you also work on the old V12's?I have the factory workshop manuals,but any advice will be greatly appreciated.Bought a '89 Daimler Double Six recently for less than$1k US from a British Classic car specialist shop.Owner/customer wasn't willing to accept their quote for repairs to get it running properly again &asked them to sell it.Managed to drive it home about 30km,but it had been standing for a few years before and only seem to be running on 5 cylinders.Clogged fuel lines,Faulty injectors etc.Rest of the car still neat except bit of clearcoat damage.Starting to redo the fuel injection system,when I have time.Too many old car projects.
Great score on the Daimler double six. Here in North America, specifically the USA, the Daimler Double Six's are nearly impossible to come by. I've been looking for either an XJ12 or a Double six. sitll haven't gotten one-yet.
Back to you question. Yes I do work on V12's I have 3 XJ-S's. I completely understand the old car projects, I'm suffering from that one too. I too have an V12 that refuses to lite up. It's not too far on my to do list and will be in my video soon. after the XJR lambada sensor replacement and installing the completed IRS.
I am more than happy to offer any advise I can. Thanx for watching and subscribing!
Hi.Tx for replying so promptly.No rush on the V12's,as I'll only really have enough time after hopefully going on early retirement in October after 32 years.Awesome on your 3 XJ-S's.Also have a white '84 XJS cabriolet 5.3HE,which I got before their prices became insane.Together with a '98 Range Rover,my only British cars amongst the German and Swedish collection.Bought Double 6 also because the 2 are mechanically nearly identical,so can I switch parts around to test in case one develops a tricky problem to diagnose.You ever did a manual transmission conversion on a V12?Used to be a US company selling a complete kit with a T5 Borg Warner 5sp.Any other box you believe to be suitable,as T5's like unicorn horns around here.Would love to convert the XJS,especially to 6Sp M.Lovely &rare car around here as 80%+ cars on the road are German &Japanese,especially Toyota,but it's horrendously thirsty and petrol is very expensive in South Africa.Government loads the price with numerous levies and taxes to help fund the welfare state we have.Tx again and looking forward to your next video.
I haven't done a manual conversion on an XJ-S or XJ (of any kind) V12. It's kinda on my list. I will be doing a auto to 4spd manual gearbox in one of my XJ6's. Then if funds provide, I will also be putting a manual gearbox in one of my XJ-S's. probably the XJ-SC.
Yep, I'm aware of the bloke in Texas who offered up a manual conversion kit. I think he's still around. The website I believe is "The Driven Man" I think he's focusing now on American V8 to Jag conversions. Which saddens me, because the tune coming out the back of a Jaguar is music to my ears.
The T5's are getting rare around here too. Popular with the hot rodders; along with Jaguar IRS's. Tremec gearboxes have been used successfully with Jaguars. I'm guessing probably a T5 configuration. I also know that Toyota manual gearboxes have also been used - a ton of modifications though; and it doesn't look original.
Jay Leno (Jay Leno's Garage) replaced all of his Moss Gearboxes with Tremec gearboxes. I'm not sure which Tremec gearbox was used or how it was mated it to the back of the engine. If he used the original bell housing, linkage, or had it all made up. If I decide to go down the Tremec path; I will certainly be offering up the information as well as providing a kit.
Thank you for watching and a special thank you for keeping the classic Jaguars alive
Cheers!
Hi.Thanks for all the info.SA is also a hot country like the southern parts of the USA and the XJ6's had gained a bad reputation of overheating,especially in summer when it easily reaches 40degees+ Celsius.So a lot of the survivors has had Chevy or Ford V8's installed.At least it saved them from being canibilsed for their suspension and brakes for kit cars.Quite popular here.I know the Toyota 21R 5sp get used frequently here on V8 manual conversions & is still quite cheap but getting scarce.But I hate all things Toyota and feel it will be heresy to fit that it into a Jaguar.The Lexus V8 has become the default choice for conversions here,on all types of cars especially Japanese pick up trucks,which are notoriously underpowered standard,but incredibly popular here.A Lexus motor & autobox,guaranteed running with ECU etc,gets sold for less than half the price of a used American V8.But doesn't seem to have the power potential without big expense and simply doesn't sound as good.Are you happy with your XJR?I'm looking for early 2000's one,but have heard a lot of horror stories about the V8's having water jacket problems,Nikasil bore issues(only the earlier ones apparently) & other serious issues when they get older.A few non running 1's with disasembled motors advertised for sale currently.But still love them .Like a modernised Series 2/3 XJ with some serious power and no rust issues.Tx again and also keep the Jaguars alive.I believe they're also not too popular in the USA.
PS.I know of the Tremec conversions,but they are all but unknown here,probably because of the price.Ony a few special imports.Our currency ia a joke.18.4 Rand for a US Dollar.Wish I had 10% of Leno's wealth,so I could afford all my ideas,but I'm just a cop.But he seems like a real nice guy &obvious true petrolhead.Glad he made it big and preserving a lot of treasures.BTW,the old Audi 100 5cylinder 5sp manual boxes were &still is quite popular here on V8 conversions.Can't remember if its a ZF or Getrag box,but apparently very tough.Was FWD,but they turn it 180 degrees and fit it as a transaxle for RWD with a new propshaft etc.The old 80'-90'S VW Kombi had the this box& 5cylinder motor combo fitted as RWD.Dunno if it'll work with the XJ's inboard rear discs and suspension,but you'll know more.There has been a couple of Double Sixes advertised recently in SA.Just remember they are RHD.I dunno how much US import fees & taxes are,but if can deal with the importing hassles,I can try and find the ads and get you ph numbers if they are still for sale.Prices should be highly negotiable now during this lockdown,which is being gradually lifted in stages.Anyway,the 1 was advertised as immaculate regular driver for R80k,which is just over $4k US.
Distributor turns CCW !
wonder if you created a cool to0l for getting at the idle speed adjustment on the throttle body, as buried as it is? im looking at it. each time i see my life passing before me when rolling conventional thought at the %^$ design problem...
Not yet, It is a huge PITA to adjust. The firs thing is do is hit the threads with a small wire brush to remove the yuk and oxidation off the threads. then it's just a universal joint, socket, on a screwdriver handle and a spanner. What I've found is the key is getting the threads clean.
Thank you for taking the time to comment and watching the video.
Sincerely,
Mark
Don't you time those engines off the number 6 spark plug
Hello there, what are the causes for a jaguar xj6 series 3, for it not to go over 30 mph on the road? Could it be a tune up ignition, fuel system problem, and or in need of a transmission fluid change? Any suggestions would be appreciated, Thank you.
There’s a butt load of issues that could cause the poor performance. I’d need a bit more information to help diagnose where to start. Here’s a couple of things to consider.
I start with a proper tune up. Compression check, Evaluate the plugs for oil, excessive fuel, or not enough fuel, Check the timing, make sure the distributor is advancing.
Transmission - if the engine revs and the car doesn’t accelerate. Jag’s with a BW 65 or 66 Automatic gearbox (usually the XK6 engine) use an F-type fluid which is stinky like gear oil where Dextron (used behind the V12 - XJ-S TurboHydro 350 & 400). Also the fluid should be a cherry cough syrup red color. The wrong fluid could cause the transmission to slip - that was my experience in my ’74 Series II XJ6.
Fuel system - Fuel Injected - Check the fuel pressure (at the rail) I think the specs are a min of 36psi up to 50psi. I’m sure someone will waste no time correcting me. Make sure the injectors hoses aren’t leaking too. Fuel will pool up on the intake manifold. Not only is it a serious fire hazard but it can reduce the efficiency of the injectors.
Ignition & timing… There’s a couple of videos that cover this.
I'm not sure what would ever change the base timing of the distributor in an electronic ignition engine, but I could be forgetting something. Once I set it, I forget it unless a pre-rotor component of the primary or secondary ignition has been replaced (or of course valve timing components or the distributor itself).
I suppose in a perfect world there wouldn’t be any reason to adjust or check the timing on an electronic ignition, but as my dad said when I was about 10, “Son… We don’t live in a perfect world.”
Wire insulation breaks down over time, oxidation builds up on the copper creating added resistance. When the armature passes the pickup, electrons jump the gap between the two components. Over time this thins the tips of the armature, which will affect spark & timing.
A faulty electrical system can also affect the timing. For example, an alternator pushing too much voltage through the electrical system will cause arcing, which will leave blobs of metal behind on one or more armature tips, this will affect the ignition timing and the amount of fuel pushed to the injectors.
Parts getting hot and cold over and over change the tolerances between mating surfaces; coupled with oil and road grit building up around the base of the distributor can work its way into places it’s not supposed to be; working like little grinding stones slowly adjusting the fit and tension between parts. Oil and grit ending up in the bolt hole for the distributor hold down strap can create a false sense of “tightness” (see my video about thread chasing) on the hold down bolt allowing the distributor to move. The friction of the moving components inside the distributor can, over time, adjust the timing.
If the Idle speed is off, and the timing is spot on, adjusting the idle speed will affect the timing. If vacuum advance (or retard depending on the year of your Jag), isn’t functioning properly this will also affect the ignition timing. If the distributor isn’t maintained meaning getting it’s drop of oil down the shaft, this will cause wear and affect the timing.
The distributor and the oil pump are both driven from a centric bronze gear that is driven from a gear on the crankshaft. This can also wear over time which can affect the timing. (and oil pressure; but that’s its own topic).
So… yeah… I inspect it all, and double check the timing every time I monkey’ing with the ignition system or the idle. Why? because my Dad was right, we don’t live in a perfect world.
I have a Jaguar xj6 1986 with only 24,000km and I need some information, can you help me?
Certainly. How may I help?
Good day. There is a request for you. I have the same machine and a technical problem could you help me? I really need help to answer a couple of questions
Certainty, what is the question?
@@JagMods Need a wiring diagram XJ6 4.0 90 year of release
@@gochagamsahurdiya8225
which one? Ignition or the whole car?
@@gochagamsahurdiya8225
I would recommend purchasing the manual otpubs.com has the original factory manual available online. The cost is under 100$ which is a bargain. I paid 2.5 times that for my hard copy on eBay.
I also have the OTPUBS version as well. There are valuable dealer training guides that you won’t find in a hard bound like the one I have.
Thanks
Cannot find tune up procedures for 1996 XJ6 (frustrating)
Is your jag a XJ40 or a X300? I believe it’s got the 4 litre 6. I’d highly recommend getting a manual. SNG Barratt has an electronic version as does OTPUBS. These are well worth the money.
Keep in mind where you install the viewer that’s were it stays.
OTPUBS support is the worst I’ve ever come across, well no there’s another but not related to cars.
Product good support bad. Haha
Theres a new one, electrons wearing down the reluctor wheel tips . You may have just invented a new science theory. And while im at it the diode /continuity test on your multimeter isnt measuring ohms its showing you a current reading as if you were testing a forward bias on a diode.
"electrons wearing down the reluctor?... I know right? Well I have seen the tips of the reluctor rounded off like a big blob of metal on the tip. I'm not really sure what you mean about the multi-tester in this tune up video, cause the only time I busted out the meter, is to do a poor demonstration of checking the HT lead resistance.
Thank you for watching.
Personally i would do away with this an buy Pertronix
distributor for these applications they go up to 1987model year. The part number is a D177600 for a 12 volt negative ground system. Also you will need to use the coil part number 40511 with his conversion.
Much better
It is a nice bit of kit, that is what I have in my series 1 and Series 2 XJ6’s.