a raster image is created on a laser engraver by sending the laser left to right, then top to bottom (or similar) line by line until the image is complete. A vector shape is created by having the laser move along the lines and arcs of the geometry itself. This is why cutting a shape out of material is done with a vector file, and engraving text or an image is done with a raster file. You don't have to cut completely through the material when using a vector file, but the laser will still move along the geometry to create the design. That's what matters most for creating artwork with a laser.
Yes absolutely. You can lower the power and increase the speed and do simple engravings with vector lines. That said, it's only really beneficial with line art and the like. If the design is too dense, there will be less of a time benefit to vector marking.
Thanks for the great explanation. I’m slowly getting a handle on the subject. I do have a question in regards to photo engraving and the settings in Re.3. When you select the dither option in the raster section is there a way to know how far to move the slider to get the best results? The image on the screen doesn’t represent what the engraving looks like, correct? Is the only way to know what you will get is to run the engrave job?
Correct. The dither render is not a 1:1 representation of what you'll get. It's pretty close, but the best way to know for sure is to do a test. There are a bunch of variables that can give you different results like what material you're using and the image you're using.
you probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times you can stream pretty much all the new series on Instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my girlfriend during the lockdown :)
I’m the owner of a muse with riser and rotary options. Looking into the different file types and wondering if there’s a way to convert between file types without purchasing a suite of Adobe software. Also wondering if there’s any detailed videos on how to align the camera with where the laser head engraved. My machine is consistently engraving high and to the left the same way the laser head and camera aren’t located at the same point. Not a big deal to just run the same job over again but it definitely hinders using the camera to align a previously ran job to run it a second time after removing it from the work surface.
So re3 actually has a new feature that allows you to vectorize raster images. we updated the description of this video a week or so ago to reflect this. In regards to the camera not being aligned to the laser head, I'm not sure if you're saying the camera needs to be calibrated, or if you want the camera to be pointing directly to where the laser head cuts.
@@FullSpectrumLasers I’d like the image the laser head engraved/cuts(when I figure out cut) to be aligned better with the image I see in my browser window. I’ve seen the camera calibration tool in the menus on the laser but there’s a note to not adjust unless you’ve been advised to do so. Currently I snap a pic either at the laser or in the browser, position my job inside the project and when i compare where the laser engraved with where the layout actually in in the browser I get an engraving that’s offset left and high of where it appears it should have engraved.
Not such a big deal until you want to run a job a second time returning to a project out of order. I can run the one job back to back and of course it engraved over the same image as long as my workpiece hasn’t moved. Wondering if there’s a way to offset one or the other to make them line up better.
@@jonflannery8984 If you're looking for that level of precision, I'd suggest using reference markers. The camera is a great starting point, especially with oddly shaped material, but reference markers will get you accuracy down to the millimeter.
@@FullSpectrumLasers haven’t figured out how those work yet. I miss the days of built in tutorial and physical manuals. I’ll be sure to look into that parameter. Thanks for the helpful advice.
a raster image is created on a laser engraver by sending the laser left to right, then top to bottom (or similar) line by line until the image is complete. A vector shape is created by having the laser move along the lines and arcs of the geometry itself. This is why cutting a shape out of material is done with a vector file, and engraving text or an image is done with a raster file. You don't have to cut completely through the material when using a vector file, but the laser will still move along the geometry to create the design. That's what matters most for creating artwork with a laser.
I knew the difference between the two but my question is can you engrave with vector to engrave faster?
Yes absolutely. You can lower the power and increase the speed and do simple engravings with vector lines. That said, it's only really beneficial with line art and the like. If the design is too dense, there will be less of a time benefit to vector marking.
Thanks for the great explanation. I’m slowly getting a handle on the subject. I do have a question in regards to photo engraving and the settings in Re.3. When you select the dither option in the raster section is there a way to know how far to move the slider to get the best results? The image on the screen doesn’t represent what the engraving looks like, correct? Is the only way to know what you will get is to run the engrave job?
Correct. The dither render is not a 1:1 representation of what you'll get. It's pretty close, but the best way to know for sure is to do a test. There are a bunch of variables that can give you different results like what material you're using and the image you're using.
you probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times you can stream pretty much all the new series on Instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my girlfriend during the lockdown :)
@Nixon Hezekiah yea, been using instaflixxer for years myself =)
What speed do you suggest for vector engraving? I have 50w laser. TIA
if you're just vector marking, I'd do 100 speed.
I’m the owner of a muse with riser and rotary options. Looking into the different file types and wondering if there’s a way to convert between file types without purchasing a suite of Adobe software. Also wondering if there’s any detailed videos on how to align the camera with where the laser head engraved. My machine is consistently engraving high and to the left the same way the laser head and camera aren’t located at the same point. Not a big deal to just run the same job over again but it definitely hinders using the camera to align a previously ran job to run it a second time after removing it from the work surface.
So re3 actually has a new feature that allows you to vectorize raster images. we updated the description of this video a week or so ago to reflect this. In regards to the camera not being aligned to the laser head, I'm not sure if you're saying the camera needs to be calibrated, or if you want the camera to be pointing directly to where the laser head cuts.
@@FullSpectrumLasers I’d like the image the laser head engraved/cuts(when I figure out cut) to be aligned better with the image I see in my browser window. I’ve seen the camera calibration tool in the menus on the laser but there’s a note to not adjust unless you’ve been advised to do so. Currently I snap a pic either at the laser or in the browser, position my job inside the project and when i compare where the laser engraved with where the layout actually in in the browser I get an engraving that’s offset left and high of where it appears it should have engraved.
Not such a big deal until you want to run a job a second time returning to a project out of order. I can run the one job back to back and of course it engraved over the same image as long as my workpiece hasn’t moved. Wondering if there’s a way to offset one or the other to make them line up better.
@@jonflannery8984 If you're looking for that level of precision, I'd suggest using reference markers. The camera is a great starting point, especially with oddly shaped material, but reference markers will get you accuracy down to the millimeter.
@@FullSpectrumLasers haven’t figured out how those work yet. I miss the days of built in tutorial and physical manuals. I’ll be sure to look into that parameter. Thanks for the helpful advice.