Hi Nigel, many, many thanks! Very precious tipps for maintaining the lenses. I have some and I'm afraid that they get some sort of fungus. Best wishes, Ralf
A word of caution regarding cleaning the Jupiter 8 .. The coatings can be accidentally rubbed off quite easily, so please don't apply any cleaning fluids such as alcohol or lighter fuel etc. I would use warm water and a clean 100% cotton bed sheet to gently dry it. I've also ruined many lenses by using acetone to free the glue around the threaded retaining rings that hold the glass elements in place, because it can seep through into the bonding agent of a doublet and it eats into the balsam (glue) .. Also I used a hairdryer to apply heat to successfully free a few lenses which had ceased up focussing helicoids.. and it worked, but the heat caused a doublet to separate in the process.. and I was left with a Chinon 50mm f1.4 with rainbow coloured glass . . It's all a learning game when you start out as a novice.
The precision engineering on these lenses, regardless of the age, is always a joy to see and handle. Another terrific video, with great advice on how to maintain vintage lenses. Thank you.
I have cleaned up quite a few old lenses, I always make a diagram of the order and shape of the lenses and spacers as I take them out, then when I drop one I’m not trying 20 different ways to put it together. I’m still figuring out how to put them together without any dust though!
Anti static cloths or anti static guns used on records. Remember the neg cleaner brush that had a little radioactive strip on it that retracted into the case?
Thank you for a really insightful and thoughtful video. Maintaining and cleaning my own vintage lenses has been something I had been considering, but have not got the guts to do it. But with the right instruments and confidence I think it Is plausible now. Keep the videos coming!
@@RoubenDickranian-e5d give it a try on a cheap lens you don't use much. Take photos to chart your progress though. I had to sell one for parts because I couldn't work out how to reassemble it. Your confidence will grow!
I find a lens blower very useful to give the lens elements a final blow to clear away any fibres/dust before refitting. A smartphone is great to document any deeper lens work and can be a godsend when reassembling.👍
Yes, I can confirm that those Pancolars are a bit hard to reassemble. I had to dismount both my 50 and 80 mm Pancolar to degrease sticky aperture blades. The mechanism is superior as compared to their 'sisters' from Meyer Optik, but I had to build a 'third hand' of acoustic foam in order to keep the blades in place properly when turning the lens upside down in the process. Now both are in pristine condition again, but I practised with maybe 20 cheaper lenses before I dared to disassemble and fix these gems. These two and the 20 mm Flektogon are my absolute favourites on the Alpha 7.
I believe at that time they used Canada balsam to glue lenses. It's a type of tree resin. We had a tiny bottle at school to join microscope slides. edit: I've no idea whether it deteriorated over the years or decades, or whether it's feasible to clean the old stuff off and reattach the elements.
The idea of "boiling" when old cemented lenses start to separate (more than only at the edges) sounds good to me, as Canada balsam might liquify to a certain degree when heated up. Cleaning and re-cementing might be possible, but really hard to get the elements fit exactly as they should afterwards.
Really enjoyed the 'dissection'-lesson. I did wonder if you ever re-glued the one you boiled or just reassembled dry. On the one you claimed to destroyed, what was the terminal-issue? Were you lacking say a jig or something? lens maintenance/rebuilding, might be a popular genre like that of the ones you see rebuilding watches(?).
I just boiled the doublet in water for 20 mins or so, then put it into methylated spirit to absorb any water and left it there for a few hours. Then I just reassembled. The boiling cured the cloudiness by, I think, melting the glue and allowing it to rebond. It was a kill or cure, last chance saloon sort of fix, and to my surprise it worked. The lens I messed up was a CZJ 135 3.5, with stuck aperture blades that I thought would be an easy fix, not realising that the CZJ lenses are actually pretty complex in construction. Lens rebuilds is a great idea, thanks for the suggestion.
@@zenography7923 First off, thank you very much for your reply! Actually, I’m blown away that essentially you boiled the doublet, which turned the glue back clear (without ever separating them)! Well, I would never have thought of doing that, only to facilitate separating the two elements. Also, that boiling would rejuvenate the glue and make it optically-clear again, is just crazy to me. BTW: I have a Minolta MD 50mm f/1.7 on an old XD-5, that my daughter-in-law hasn’t done anything with; do you know about these lenses; were these anything to ‘write-home’ about. Minolta also had a 50mm f/1.2, that came on the XD-11 camera. Anyway, really love your channel, videos and your experience-set; the very best to you!
@@zenography7923 on the CZJ, are they any damage pieces, or could the lens actually be repaired. The reason I ask is challenges like this always intrigue me. I could imagine that the factory may have had som sort of jig. Don’t feel bad, as I have too failed reassembly due to some special-factor beyond my control or possession. Anyway, the fact that you are even attempting to repair these lenses, says volumes, no matter the outcomes. 😉👍
I don't think so. The boiling would be used to re-liquify the "glue" (Canada Balsam back then) - the lens element itself is not touched or disassembled, just put into hot water.
Boiling lens elements? Now that's a technique I didn't find anywhere else until now. Maybe I should do that with one of my lenses that I've tried absolutely everything to get the fungus out of the tow cemented elements. Any particular tips or details on how long this process should take in the safest manner?
Warning ⚠️ Spanner wrench is a dangerous tool. You will eventually "down the road" loose the grip and scratch a lens. It should only be used if really needed. You should rather buy a large collection of rubber cylinders in different sizes. In most cases, they are enough to dismantle the lens elements.
Where do you buy the rubber tubes? I have indeed scratched, not the lens but the surrounding using one of those tools. Would a rubber ball work, or would it mark the lens?
Very useful. 1 Is it always left to loosen right to tighten? No manufacturers being odd? 2 Camera grease drying out. I'd like to store a lens used in humidity in a container with lots of silica gel. Is it water leaving the grease that dries it out?
I've taken many lenses apart and have only come across parts that loosen anti clockwise. That's not to say that the other kind don't exist! Helicoid grease breaks down over so many years. I don't know if water leaves it though. When you see oil on aperture blades, it is usually caused by condensation of the vapours from chemicals that have separated in the grease.
@@paularger2841 thank you. 'someone' on YT said don't keep camera gear dry because lubes will dry out. They mentioned shutters as well but I always had the idea the dryer the better for things like moisture and fungus, till I saw that viid. If this wasn't true I'd give my macro a regular dry out as I use it in humid conditions often.
@@killpop8255 you're welcome! I think as long you leave your lenses out in a dry area after using them in humid conditions they should be okay. You have to be careful about what you believe from some people on the internet. I have seen some crazy claims about cameras and lenses 😂
Nothing to do with loss of water, but a chemical reaction of the grease itself with O2 from the air (it's more a "hardening" process). Water vapor might slow down the process, and modern lubricants should no longer be susceptible to this process.
Hi Nigel, many, many thanks! Very precious tipps for maintaining the lenses. I have some and I'm afraid that they get some sort of fungus. Best wishes, Ralf
A word of caution regarding cleaning the Jupiter 8 ..
The coatings can be accidentally rubbed off quite easily, so please don't apply any cleaning fluids such as alcohol or lighter fuel etc. I would use warm water and a clean 100% cotton bed sheet to gently dry it. I've also ruined many lenses by using acetone to free the glue around the threaded retaining rings that hold the glass elements in place, because it can seep through into the bonding agent of a doublet and it eats into the balsam (glue) ..
Also I used a hairdryer to apply heat to successfully free a few lenses which had ceased up focussing helicoids.. and it worked, but the heat caused a doublet to separate in the process.. and I was left with a Chinon 50mm f1.4 with rainbow coloured glass . .
It's all a learning game when you start out as a novice.
The precision engineering on these lenses, regardless of the age, is always a joy to see and handle. Another terrific video, with great advice on how to maintain vintage lenses. Thank you.
I have cleaned up quite a few old lenses, I always make a diagram of the order and shape of the lenses and spacers as I take them out, then when I drop one I’m not trying 20 different ways to put it together. I’m still figuring out how to put them together without any dust though!
Anti static cloths or anti static guns used on records. Remember the neg cleaner brush that had a little radioactive strip on it that retracted into the case?
Ok. You sold me on cleaning my messy vintage lenses!!! Thank you!!!
Update: i just ordered the tools!
Thank you for a really insightful and thoughtful video. Maintaining and cleaning my own vintage lenses has been something I had been considering, but have not got the guts to do it. But with the right instruments and confidence I think it Is plausible now. Keep the videos coming!
@@RoubenDickranian-e5d give it a try on a cheap lens you don't use much. Take photos to chart your progress though. I had to sell one for parts because I couldn't work out how to reassemble it. Your confidence will grow!
I find a lens blower very useful to give the lens elements a final blow to clear away any fibres/dust before refitting. A smartphone is great to document any deeper lens work and can be a godsend when reassembling.👍
I've been waiting for this video for sometime, so many thanks Nigel.
Regards Rob.
Thanks for this info. I have successfully worked on two lenses using these techniques. Pretty satisfying!
Newer sells a lens wrench/ thread repair tool combo. It’s made of machined aluminum and it works great for both purposes
Yes, I can confirm that those Pancolars are a bit hard to reassemble. I had to dismount both my 50 and 80 mm Pancolar to degrease sticky aperture blades. The mechanism is superior as compared to their 'sisters' from Meyer Optik, but I had to build a 'third hand' of acoustic foam in order to keep the blades in place properly when turning the lens upside down in the process. Now both are in pristine condition again, but I practised with maybe 20 cheaper lenses before I dared to disassemble and fix these gems. These two and the 20 mm Flektogon are my absolute favourites on the Alpha 7.
I believe at that time they used Canada balsam to glue lenses. It's a type of tree resin. We had a tiny bottle at school to join microscope slides.
edit: I've no idea whether it deteriorated over the years or decades, or whether it's feasible to clean the old stuff off and reattach the elements.
The idea of "boiling" when old cemented lenses start to separate (more than only at the edges) sounds good to me, as Canada balsam might liquify to a certain degree when heated up. Cleaning and re-cementing might be possible, but really hard to get the elements fit exactly as they should afterwards.
Really enjoyed the 'dissection'-lesson. I did wonder if you ever re-glued the one you boiled or just reassembled dry.
On the one you claimed to destroyed, what was the terminal-issue? Were you lacking say a jig or something?
lens maintenance/rebuilding, might be a popular genre like that of the ones you see rebuilding watches(?).
I just boiled the doublet in water for 20 mins or so, then put it into methylated spirit to absorb any water and left it there for a few hours. Then I just reassembled. The boiling cured the cloudiness by, I think, melting the glue and allowing it to rebond. It was a kill or cure, last chance saloon sort of fix, and to my surprise it worked. The lens I messed up was a CZJ 135 3.5, with stuck aperture blades that I thought would be an easy fix, not realising that the CZJ lenses are actually pretty complex in construction. Lens rebuilds is a great idea, thanks for the suggestion.
@@zenography7923 First off, thank you very much for your reply!
Actually, I’m blown away that essentially you boiled the doublet, which turned the glue back clear (without ever separating them)!
Well, I would never have thought of doing that, only to facilitate separating the two elements.
Also, that boiling would rejuvenate the glue and make it optically-clear again, is just crazy to me.
BTW: I have a Minolta MD 50mm f/1.7 on an old XD-5, that my daughter-in-law hasn’t done anything with; do you know about these lenses; were these anything to ‘write-home’ about. Minolta also had a 50mm f/1.2, that came on the XD-11 camera.
Anyway, really love your channel, videos and your experience-set; the very best to you!
@@zenography7923 on the CZJ, are they any damage pieces, or could the lens actually be repaired.
The reason I ask is challenges like this always intrigue me. I could imagine that the factory may have had som sort of jig.
Don’t feel bad, as I have too failed reassembly due to some special-factor beyond my control or possession.
Anyway, the fact that you are even attempting to repair these lenses, says volumes, no matter the outcomes. 😉👍
Hi :) Did You have to re-glue the two lenses back together after boiling???? What glue would You use ??? Thanks :) :) :)
I don't think so. The boiling would be used to re-liquify the "glue" (Canada Balsam back then) - the lens element itself is not touched or disassembled, just put into hot water.
How does boiling the elements work? I understand that it makes a cloudy doublet clear, but what is going on?
Melting/liquifying the Canada balsam used in those days.
Boiling lens elements? Now that's a technique I didn't find anywhere else until now. Maybe I should do that with one of my lenses that I've tried absolutely everything to get the fungus out of the tow cemented elements. Any particular tips or details on how long this process should take in the safest manner?
I have an Industar22 for Zorki 1 which has a stuck aperture ring ( probably old grease). How do I fix that?
❤❤❤
Warning ⚠️ Spanner wrench is a dangerous tool. You will eventually "down the road" loose the grip and scratch a lens. It should only be used if really needed. You should rather buy a large collection of rubber cylinders in different sizes. In most cases, they are enough to dismantle the lens elements.
Where do you buy the rubber tubes? I have indeed scratched, not the lens but the surrounding using one of those tools. Would a rubber ball work, or would it mark the lens?
Me, I'm interested also to buy these rubber cylinders!
Very useful.
1 Is it always left to loosen right to tighten? No manufacturers being odd?
2 Camera grease drying out. I'd like to store a lens used in humidity in a container with lots of silica gel. Is it water leaving the grease that dries it out?
I've taken many lenses apart and have only come across parts that loosen anti clockwise. That's not to say that the other kind don't exist!
Helicoid grease breaks down over so many years. I don't know if water leaves it though. When you see oil on aperture blades, it is usually caused by condensation of the vapours from chemicals that have separated in the grease.
@@paularger2841 thank you. 'someone' on YT said don't keep camera gear dry because lubes will dry out. They mentioned shutters as well but I always had the idea the dryer the better for things like moisture and fungus, till I saw that viid. If this wasn't true I'd give my macro a regular dry out as I use it in humid conditions often.
@@killpop8255 you're welcome! I think as long you leave your lenses out in a dry area after using them in humid conditions they should be okay. You have to be careful about what you believe from some people on the internet. I have seen some crazy claims about cameras and lenses 😂
Nothing to do with loss of water, but a chemical reaction of the grease itself with O2 from the air (it's more a "hardening" process). Water vapor might slow down the process, and modern lubricants should no longer be susceptible to this process.
hi guys thanks for useful comments what specific lubricant you recommend?
Microfibre clothes are no no for me
I have used disposable pre-moistured lens wipes I found from a supermarket. They work nicely.