Part 2-Hook 8 Harbor Freight Solar Panels together in Parallel - OOPS - "Houston We Have A Problem"
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
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Part 2 - Today I show you how I reconfigure my Harbor Freight Solar Panels to get the most out of them to charge a 5120Wh 200W Emergency Power Station.
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Good job on converting to MC4 and putting the groups into series and parallel. I knew the issue was the harbor freight connection box. It is very difficult to get 100 percent from the panels but 70% to 80% and sometimes 90% is normal. 100% needs perfect angle and conditions, so it is rare unless you have no clouds and have the panels directed and angled perfectly. You could make a third group of solar with your suitcase panels, but it would be best to connect them to a separate charge controller unless they have the same voltage. You can connect more than one charge controller to a battery without any issues. I have 3 charge controllers connected to my batteries with a group of panels for each one.
I have videos on UA-cam of mine if you're interested in seeing it. I made the mistake of having the 3 groups all connected to the same charge controller and losing wattage from the panels because the voltages were not the same. I had 2 sets of 180-watt panels in series and one set of 4 100-watt panels in parallel and never got more than 20 volts even though the 180 watt panels made 36 volts. Since I have done that my batteries tend to stay mostly charged with a window unit ac running off of them
80% of stated wattage is normal.
Thank you, sir, for making these videos showing your operating system with these particular components. I've watched a number of Will Prowse videos and others but I especially appreciate yours because your system is so similar to the system I have been slowly assembling over the last several months. I had been watching the Harbor Freight sales and buying the 100W panels a few at a time. My plan has been for a 12 panel system using a couple of the same Renogy 40A charge controllers that you have. Like you, I had been planning to do it all in 12V parallel using 3 of the 400W Universal Solar Connectors but now I see I should use a series-parallel arrangement and will probably use MC4 connectors. So this was really good information for me. Thanks!
I also plan on adding another Charge Controller and more panels. Thanks and make sure to like and subscribe.
@@thechiefsway2618 So your experience influenced the final design of my system. For a long time, I had been planning on assembling arrays of 4 Harbor Freight panels in a wooden frame connected to a Harbor Freight Universal Solar Connector like you originally did because it was easy. But based on your experience, I changed the design and built this: ua-cam.com/video/ZDJQTQ4VTsw/v-deo.html. Before I replaced the original SAE connectors with MC4 connectors on the last 4 panels of the last array, I did an experiment with those 4 panels connected to the (parallel) Universal Connector to see if I'd get a similar result to you but, for me, it didn't make a lot of difference. I got about 22 Amps with 4 panels and the parallel connection and about 23 amps using the series/parallel arrangement. At that point, it was too late to go back and my arrays have 6 panels in a series/parallel arrangement. It works great so I'm happy.
I Love those Six Panel Arrays you have built. I have shared out your Video to my Viewers via the Community tab. I am probably going to build those same arrays next spring. Thank you for sharing.
@@thechiefsway2618 Thanks. Just be aware, those arrays are heavy suckers (150 lbs. each) and require 2 persons to set up, but they do work.
Thank you so much for making this content. I have an almost identical set up with a few less panels, and this is very helpful in my understanding of how to get the best bang for the buck.
Thanks foe Watching!!
It’s just probably the wiring Harbor Freight used on their PV modules is maybe why most people couldn’t get almost all the power caused by from some losses in the type of wires H F used . All it took was a rewiring overhaul using your own MC4 connectors and thicker cables to solve this problem and was very successful in acceptable increased power production from somehow cheap 100 watts solar panels . Check out my DIY solar videos , hit like , leave a message and subscribe . Excellent video ! May the solar be with you .
HOWdy T-C-W,
was running the Panels in PARALLEL
now
Wired in SERIES X 3 - then Parallel to Charge Controller
Great Idea
COOP
...
Outstanding Chief. BZ. This helped a bunch.
Good job guy. 80% is jus about the most you'll get. You're setup is perfect now
Thanks. I was having a similar problem
I am glad you like it!
Use (2) Renogy Rover 20amp Charge controllers ......you will get 40 amps !!! 4 Panels on each of course...... I hate Series ..... Give me AMPS Baby !!! LOL Been Running this for over a Year .
Nice, looks alot more efficient especially supplying higher voltage to the charge controller. I have one of those parallel hubs but decided to set up mine like this too. My goal is to run 2 strings of 5 panels to my Bluetti 200max. It's max solar input is 900 watts with the capability of handling 150 volts dc. I need to buy 4 more panels and was hoping for another sale or coupon.
You got it! Cool…
Good job!
Was curious if u have video on how to convert sae to mc4
Not at the moment, but I will make one for you. I have two more panels to convert. Keep an eye out for a video.
Will be uploading a video today on converting Harbor Freight Panels to MC4. Thank you for being patient.
Nice job ! if possible can you show us a diagram of how you wire your solar panel, THANK YOU!
Watch my video below an Solar Panel 3S Configuration. Also check the Community Tab where I will post a Diagram of the 3S-2P Configuration.
ua-cam.com/video/wh-JdIQfAZ4/v-deo.html
👍👍
Did you cut the SAE connectors off and solder on the mc4s? Or did you get the SAE to mc4 adapter and use thicker gauge wire in between?
I did cut off the SAE Connector on most of my panels and replaced them with the more common MC4 Connector. See this Video on how I did it. ua-cam.com/video/KSOZrKYkOlE/v-deo.html
Did you try changing the SAE to MC4 and running all panels in parallel to test the difference that the connections made? Just wondering how much of a difference that one change would make.
No I had not. I will try it out soon and report back.
Good job Chief. I could sit for hours watching my Renogy battery meter recalculate run times, amps, charge time, discharge time, Miller Time, etc. I have the 40 amp Renogy MPPT and BT-2 as well. On another project I installed a Victron Smart Shunt and was a little disappointed in it. The BT-1 and BT-2 Renogy modules will read from upstairs but the Victron won't read that far away. What batteries do you have?
I have 4 Weize 12.8V 100Ah LiFePo4 Batteries in parallel. Originally had a Renogy BT but it had problems so I returned it. Will Prowes of DIY Solar did a Good review of the Weize so I started buying then.
@@thechiefsway2618 Will reminds me of myself 50 years ago. I tore into everything to see how it worked, made changes, put the stuff back together and ran it. I couldn't leave anything alone. I spent today working on my 9th home built solar generator. Its portable as long as you own a forklift. It has a few Chins 300's on it. I used to buy Weize SLA batteries for my friend's wheelchair so I knew they were a good reliable quality brand before Will commenced to cutting his apart. Cheers!
I've watched this video a few times. I keep changing my plans. I now have 8 100 wat HF panels, Renogy 100a Charge controller & Renogy 300w inverter. I have SAE to MC4 adapters so I didn't cut the connections going to 10awg 50ft cable in 1in pvc. Thinking of doing 4 more panels in spring. I have 4 100ah agm batteries. Should I be 2S 4P or 4S2P?
3000 watt inverter not 300
With 10awg you will want the higher voltage of the 4S2P
Hi, We also need the info on sae (j-plug) to mc4 but can you also tell us where to buy the wires, connectors, etc? Trying to set up an emergency source to keep our granddaughter's insulin at temp.
Here is a link to a kit I purchased to convert my SAE to MC4. I will be making a video soon on how to do it so keep a close eye out for it. I will also include a link to everything I just purchased to convert. If you look for my system build video in the description will be links to everything used.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKTP7RF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
www.amazon.com/dp/B01D7VBJNA?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4ZM8Y8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
www.amazon.com/dp/B08FLGCYPD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
www.amazon.com/dp/B01D7VBFOS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
www.amazon.com/dp/B0753X68PS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ5PHSB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
www.amazon.com/dp/B07M98WSBQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
@@thechiefsway2618 Thank you!!!! We will keep watching for more videos. 😇
I have a Renogy 60amp MMPT charge controller, 4-100 watt Harbor Freight panels hooked together the with HF hub, using 6 gauge wire, 6 lead acid 106ah batteries wired parallel (12v)... I live at 8000ft in Colorado and get plenty of sunshine. The highest wattage I have seen is 178w (full sun in all its glory) my batteries have never dropped below 12.6 and have been running for 5 months now. I charge my phones, laptop, occasional movie (bluray and TV), and run the furnace + lights in camper all day and night. The Harbor Freight controller would sound the alarm frequently hitting 32-33amps ... so I upgraded to the RENOGY 60amp. My question if anyone can answer is on the Renogy setup for battery capacity it says "200" .. nothing in the manual explains that at all. Is that amp hours? Since I have 6 - 106ah batteries should I set that to 636? Or 106? thanks in advance.
I reviewed the manual and your right it says nothing about setting the Capacity. I would go to the screen that shows capacity and arrow down to see if it can be changed. Contacted Renogy directly will probably get you a better answer. That setting is probably used to better determine State of Charge (SOC), statistical data on their App. As far as only getting a max of 178W in full sun it is my experience that the Renogy MPPT does not work well at 18Vdc which is what you will be getting out of your panels. I get max power in a Series config. Watch my video's on converting to MC4 connectors and connecting in Series. I haven't done a video on a 4S Configuration yet but it is the same as 3S with one more panel. Good Luck and thanks for Watching.
P.S. I think it would be 600 or 636.
See the 100A Renogy manual. Explains it a little better.
www.renogy.com/rover-100-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controller/
It appears the Battery can be set from 0-9999
@@thechiefsway2618 thank you sir.. appreciate the tips and help!
Are these the HF 100W, 24 Volt panels ?....wait ... I'm confused, again !
No, they are considered 12V panels which will output 16-18V.
So the harbor freight 400 watt splitter is no good
Not at all. I did another video where I took it apart and it's actually pretty heavy duty. I believe the issue is more with the charge controller. I think the charge controller doesn't function well at 18Vdc and high current. I now use the panels in a 3S configuration at 54Vdcish, low current and it bangs.
The 400 watts combiner HF is parallel connected. If you want to increase volts, this not it. You want volts same but increase amps, this is it.
Hey chief is it possible to run the SAE cable all the way down to the charge controller? What do I need to connect
Yes you can run the SEA Connector down to the charge controller as long a the cable is long enough. You would I'm guessing need some form of weather proof penetration to get through a wall. You will have to get the direction of the SAE cable correct because they are made for DC so they do have a proper direction. SEE MY VIDEO on how to charge a Battery which explains about SAE Cables. Link Attached. ua-cam.com/video/UmO7PhkJLKw/v-deo.html
I have 12 of the harbor freight solar panels. Do not put them in parallel! Put all six of them in series and you will get 600+ watts.
you have to replace the connector or put an adapter to do this? the base connectors of the harbor freight seem hard to do this with
I have 2 of them and want to run 12 volts, what’s my best bet?
do you think the problem was the cable itself? and only the mc 4 fixed it? or did it just need a thicker cable of the old type? thanks im having the same issue currently and cant get full power and i can tell the cord is stopping it cuz when i put the battery right at the panels it works alot better
I did put on a new cable but it was also 10 AWG but had MC4 connectors on it. What I think fixed it was switching from parallel to a 3S-2P configuration which increased the voltage from 16-18 to 48-50Vdc. I think that Renogy CC just does not work well maximizing 16-18Vdc. I how have seen a max of 611W out of 600W of panel one time and regularly see high 500’s which bothers me because that CC is only supposed to have 520 max.
@@thechiefsway2618 im still trying to understand the whole series and parallel thing, I think my cord isnt thick enough cuz when in near the panels i get alot more juice then after the extention cord. is mc4 better or its just more about the thickness of the gauge? Im just trying to get the minimum amount needed to charge my car even on 110v
@@tips4tesla407 I'll be doing some video's soon on the 2S, 3S, and 4S Series Parallel Connections in Solar Basics.