That part is definitely intimidating at first! My first few wheels took a very long time to get started but it definitely gets much easier in time. Thanks Shaun!
Your teaching has really improved my skills. Thank you. Turning specific amounts on each side for the whole wheel make that much quicker. I have a couple questions.. 1 Is retentioning spokes frequently required if you jump lots? 2 Is it acceptable on the bike to just blast thru a rim that needs tensioning with the tire on? Thank you
I just made my first attempt at lacing a wheel ( don't ask lol) so I recently watched quite a few how-to videos on the subject. Wish I had found this video first! Awesome video, i gained WAY more clarity on the subject, I tip my hat to you Sir and immediately subscribe. A couple questions, I'm lacing a 20 x 4 1/4 in. rear wheel on a OCC chopper, so i don't have to alternate head and shoulder inside and next spoke outside???
Hey Menno! I actually have a couple pairs of straight pull hubs to lace this week so many end up doing a video on those as well. Personally I think straight pull works fine but I am not a big fan of it as its a bit of extra work until you get some initial tension on the spokes but more than anything, I feel like it was designed because it is more forgiving to poor quality builds like in machine built/mass produced builds. All the issues marketers claim straight pull "solves" can just as easily be solved by building a traditional j bend wheel properly to begin with but that takes a little more time. Hope this helps!
I very interested in the shuffle box and the tool you used. I work at a bike shop here in Anchorage and always looking for something to make a job easier. Thank You Jim
Hi James! We would love to sell you a nipple shuffle box if you are interested. You can order them through our website and we are happy to ship them anywhere. Thanks! elevationwheelcompany.com/product/nipple-shuffle-box/
Hi Chris, I come to you again for help with a rear wheel that is causing me problems. I recently changed my bike, went from a hard tail where I practiced xc to a full trail bike, the wheels that came on it are: WTB KOM Trail i29 TCS, 32h; spokes DT Swiss Competition. The problem is that every ride I take I come back home with a crooked rear wheel, I don't do jumps or do crazy things with the bike, just some climbs and descents on gravel roads, nothing strange, I just walk normally, it's terrible how this wheel can't stay aligned, before that i never had problems practicing xc with other wheels. If you have any tips to give me, I would like to tell my mechanic, if you want I can give you other information such tension of some spokes if it helps you in the diagnosis. I just wanted to know what to do to keep this wheel aligned. Thanks Chris.
Hey! Typically if a wheel will not hold up and goes out of true quickly there is either a lot of wind up in the spokes after building/truing, the wheel is not stress relieved well, the spoke tensions are either low, not even or both. It's hard to say exactly what the cause is without seeing it in person but if all those things check out, it may be time for a different rim as in my experience, the WTM KOM rims are not the toughest on the market. Hope this helps!
Any time! That one is pretty simple with most rims. I typically look up the max recommended spoke tension and build to there as I believe higher tensions make for a more durable wheel. There are some exceptions like older light weight rims usually don't like much more thank 100kgf and modern carbon rims often have crazy high max tension ratings so I typically just build those to 120-130kgf even if the published maximum is much higher.
@@giffmann2 Lots of variables there like hub dimension, rim offset, etc. Basically the non drive side falls whenever it does and there is not much you can do about it so you just want to focus on getting the drive side tension where you want it and making sure the dish is correct. The other important thing in tensioning is making sure tensions are balanced evenly on each side. You ideally want around 5% spoke tension variance on each side but 10% is completely acceptable too and some rims wont let you get any better than that. So all DS spokes within about 5% of each other and all NDS spokes within about 5% of each other but the variance between the drive side and non drive side can't really be changed without changing componentry and that can be a huge difference, up to 40% or so on some wheels.
@@ChrisMurrayEWC My rims are wtb i45 29". WTB says 110 - 125 kgf. Does this mean 110 kgf is the lowest that any spoke should be? Thank you so much for this video and the original!
@@TurkeyBasterandLex My pleasure! I would shoot for 115-120kgf on those if it were me. That would be only the drive side rear/brake side front tensions. The other side of the wheel will be at a much lower tension because of dish.
I typically use the Park Tool anti-seize but that is mostly because it is easy to order through my distributors. I don't have a strong preference there. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisMurrayEWC we are very limited with parktool stuff here in South Africa. Even more so now in this pandemic. I'm sure it is the case everywhere. Thank you so much for your response. If you have an opportunity, it would be great to see how to do spoke length calculations on a rim using straight pull spokes. We rarely get customers asking for such builds in our shop.
@@sergiokarlluhmann7059 Tools are very hard to find these day. Most shops seem to be building up their service departments more which I do think is a good thing. There are other sources for tools you can look into as well although I don't know if they ship to South Africa. Pedro's and Unior have always been very easy to work with in my experience so hopefully they could be helpful for you. In regards to straight pull spoke calculations, I honestly don't always have great luck with that outside of with DT hubs. I use the DT calculator as it has an option for "user defined" straight pull hubs that at least will get you close but it isn't always spot on. You can find that here - spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/
@@ChrisMurrayEWC I have a Unior supplier here in SA, but manufacturing and delivery dates keep being pushed back. I will keep the DT Swiss link you've given me close. I'm sure it will help once I get a customer who needs such a build. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. And your videos on starting ones own wheel building company came in handy. Have a great weekend and all the best.
late to the party, but since im here now.... For those starting out with wheel building it , it my opinion its much easier to start with the "inward " spoke, thats to say opposite direction this build starts with, its the same final product but instead of "under under over" it ends up being "over over under" it saves the effort of having to bend the spoke around the two "unders" my god ive done an awful job of trying to explain what i mean haha maybe someone that knows the actual terms can help me out with this one.. i can only build wheels not explain things on the internet
Compared to rim brake, is lacing different for drive and non-drive disc wheels both front and rear. 8:08 is this the lacing pattern for a disc wheel front and rear?
Some people like to argue that you should lace them differently but in reality it doesn't make any difference if you lacing things with trailing spokes heads in vs heads out. I've had engineers with access to pretty sophisticated equipment test this and they couldn't see a difference in lacing one way or the other.
People like to debate heads in vs heads out on spoke orientation but in testing both in a lab and real world it doesn't make any real difference so I don't have a strong preference either way unless building with a used hub. When the hub has been laced before I do try to match how it was previously laced.
@@mikefronczek7862 you want them to alternate on each hub flange but it really doesnt matter if driveside has trailing spokes with heads in and non drive side has them heads out or some other variant there.
Sad to break that beautifully crafted 300 likes number, but you deserve it, because This video is TOTALLY UNDERRATED.
I used your older video to build my first wheelset, thank you a lot for doing these videos!
That's awesome, glad you found them helpful!! Hope the new wheels are running great!
Nice job..The tricky part as a newby wheelbuilder is often getting the lacing correct...
That part is definitely intimidating at first! My first few wheels took a very long time to get started but it definitely gets much easier in time. Thanks Shaun!
Your teaching has really improved my skills. Thank you. Turning specific amounts on each side for the whole wheel make that much quicker.
I have a couple questions..
1 Is retentioning spokes frequently required if you jump lots?
2 Is it acceptable on the bike to just blast thru a rim that needs tensioning with the tire on?
Thank you
I just made my first attempt at lacing a wheel ( don't ask lol) so I recently watched quite a few how-to videos on the subject.
Wish I had found this video first!
Awesome video, i gained WAY more clarity on the subject, I tip my hat to you Sir and immediately subscribe.
A couple questions, I'm lacing a
20 x 4 1/4 in. rear wheel on a OCC chopper, so i don't have to alternate head and shoulder inside and next spoke outside???
Nice video! Do you always use hubs with flanges or do you also build wheels with straight pull spokes? Eager to hear your preference and why!
Hey Menno! I actually have a couple pairs of straight pull hubs to lace this week so many end up doing a video on those as well. Personally I think straight pull works fine but I am not a big fan of it as its a bit of extra work until you get some initial tension on the spokes but more than anything, I feel like it was designed because it is more forgiving to poor quality builds like in machine built/mass produced builds.
All the issues marketers claim straight pull "solves" can just as easily be solved by building a traditional j bend wheel properly to begin with but that takes a little more time.
Hope this helps!
Thanx for these vids... definately going to try my own wheel build someday
Thanks for watching! Riding wheels you built is definitely satisfying
I very interested in the shuffle box and the tool you used. I work at a bike shop here in Anchorage and always looking for something to make a job easier.
Thank You
Jim
Hi James! We would love to sell you a nipple shuffle box if you are interested. You can order them through our website and we are happy to ship them anywhere. Thanks! elevationwheelcompany.com/product/nipple-shuffle-box/
Hi Chris, I come to you again for help with a rear wheel that is causing me problems. I recently changed my bike, went from a hard tail where I practiced xc to a full trail bike, the wheels that came on it are:
WTB KOM Trail i29 TCS, 32h; spokes DT Swiss Competition.
The problem is that every ride I take I come back home with a crooked rear wheel, I don't do jumps or do crazy things with the bike, just some climbs and descents on gravel roads, nothing strange, I just walk normally, it's terrible how this wheel can't stay aligned, before that i never had problems practicing xc with other wheels.
If you have any tips to give me, I would like to tell my mechanic, if you want I can give you other information such tension of some spokes if it helps you in the diagnosis. I just wanted to know what to do to keep this wheel aligned. Thanks Chris.
Hey! Typically if a wheel will not hold up and goes out of true quickly there is either a lot of wind up in the spokes after building/truing, the wheel is not stress relieved well, the spoke tensions are either low, not even or both. It's hard to say exactly what the cause is without seeing it in person but if all those things check out, it may be time for a different rim as in my experience, the WTM KOM rims are not the toughest on the market. Hope this helps!
Thanks Chris!
How about a tutorial in determining proper tension?
Any time! That one is pretty simple with most rims. I typically look up the max recommended spoke tension and build to there as I believe higher tensions make for a more durable wheel. There are some exceptions like older light weight rims usually don't like much more thank 100kgf and modern carbon rims often have crazy high max tension ratings so I typically just build those to 120-130kgf even if the published maximum is much higher.
@@ChrisMurrayEWC is there a percent difference in tension from drive vs non drive? What about asym rims and tension?
@@giffmann2 Lots of variables there like hub dimension, rim offset, etc. Basically the non drive side falls whenever it does and there is not much you can do about it so you just want to focus on getting the drive side tension where you want it and making sure the dish is correct. The other important thing in tensioning is making sure tensions are balanced evenly on each side. You ideally want around 5% spoke tension variance on each side but 10% is completely acceptable too and some rims wont let you get any better than that. So all DS spokes within about 5% of each other and all NDS spokes within about 5% of each other but the variance between the drive side and non drive side can't really be changed without changing componentry and that can be a huge difference, up to 40% or so on some wheels.
@@ChrisMurrayEWC My rims are wtb i45 29". WTB says 110 - 125 kgf. Does this mean 110 kgf is the lowest that any spoke should be? Thank you so much for this video and the original!
@@TurkeyBasterandLex My pleasure! I would shoot for 115-120kgf on those if it were me. That would be only the drive side rear/brake side front tensions. The other side of the wheel will be at a much lower tension because of dish.
Hi Chris. Thanks for the great content. I would like to to ask, anti-seize, which do you use?
I typically use the Park Tool anti-seize but that is mostly because it is easy to order through my distributors. I don't have a strong preference there. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisMurrayEWC we are very limited with parktool stuff here in South Africa. Even more so now in this pandemic. I'm sure it is the case everywhere. Thank you so much for your response. If you have an opportunity, it would be great to see how to do spoke length calculations on a rim using straight pull spokes. We rarely get customers asking for such builds in our shop.
@@sergiokarlluhmann7059 Tools are very hard to find these day. Most shops seem to be building up their service departments more which I do think is a good thing. There are other sources for tools you can look into as well although I don't know if they ship to South Africa. Pedro's and Unior have always been very easy to work with in my experience so hopefully they could be helpful for you.
In regards to straight pull spoke calculations, I honestly don't always have great luck with that outside of with DT hubs. I use the DT calculator as it has an option for "user defined" straight pull hubs that at least will get you close but it isn't always spot on.
You can find that here - spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/
@@ChrisMurrayEWC I have a Unior supplier here in SA, but manufacturing and delivery dates keep being pushed back. I will keep the DT Swiss link you've given me close. I'm sure it will help once I get a customer who needs such a build. Thanks for taking the time to help me out. And your videos on starting ones own wheel building company came in handy. Have a great weekend and all the best.
@@sergiokarlluhmann7059 my pleasure! I am happy they have been helpful. You have a great weekend as well!
late to the party, but since im here now.... For those starting out with wheel building it , it my opinion its much easier to start with the "inward " spoke, thats to say opposite direction this build starts with, its the same final product but instead of "under under over" it ends up being "over over under" it saves the effort of having to bend the spoke around the two "unders"
my god ive done an awful job of trying to explain what i mean haha maybe someone that knows the actual terms can help me out with this one.. i can only build wheels not explain things on the internet
Explaining lacing wheels without visuals is super hard! We all have our preference in how to lace for sure.
Hi Chris is it the same rebuilt steps regardless of what size rim I have a 27 and a half thank you
Yep! If you are doing a different spoke count that may change the number of times you cross spokes but the rest remains the same.
very nice, very nice!
Thank you!
Compared to rim brake, is lacing different for drive and non-drive disc wheels both front and rear. 8:08 is this the lacing pattern for a disc wheel front and rear?
Some people like to argue that you should lace them differently but in reality it doesn't make any difference if you lacing things with trailing spokes heads in vs heads out. I've had engineers with access to pretty sophisticated equipment test this and they couldn't see a difference in lacing one way or the other.
@@ChrisMurrayEWC thanks for the reply and the video! Glad to hear it doesn't matter.
@@aaron___6014 any time, thanks for watching!
I think it's better if u use colored spokes.. better for us to follow through the steps
Definitely! The black can be hard to see but I do not build many wheels with colored spokes which is why I added the graphics. Hope it helped!
Chris should first set of spokes on both sides of hub be head out
People like to debate heads in vs heads out on spoke orientation but in testing both in a lab and real world it doesn't make any real difference so I don't have a strong preference either way unless building with a used hub. When the hub has been laced before I do try to match how it was previously laced.
@@ChrisMurrayEWC thank you
@@mikefronczek7862 any time!
@@ChrisMurrayEWC i guess what i am asking' should both sides be the same or it just doesn't matter
@@mikefronczek7862 you want them to alternate on each hub flange but it really doesnt matter if driveside has trailing spokes with heads in and non drive side has them heads out or some other variant there.
thx bruh
Thank you!