Waiting a few years for a few ascents is the correct call. This is not necessarily a film about Simon. It's a film about Soudain Seul starring Simon. The story doesn't end with him.
I cant believe how dedicated Simon can be for a climb and his craft. Showing up sometimes is not enough. You have to clean snow off a rock by yourself, hand made your own optimized Frankenstein shoe and knee pad thickness/stiffness. Hunt down perfect conditions, and never believing you are not able to do it, instead thinking “what else can I perfect?” and “how can I be better?”. This ascent was really ahead of its time which is why the 9A grade got so much shit, but this man has done Burden of Dreams and Alphane now and will without a doubt do the ones in the US this upcoming season. So give him his flowers already and get over yourselves with the “book is aid” talks
What you think before watching : Scarpa provided the shoes of the FA ! What you think after watching : Scarpa did not provide the shoes of the FA. Bravo ! Fricadelle pour fêter ça :)
Man Simon's wife/GF is MVP... Well no there is also the guy who held the bouldermat for the sun... So many amazing people... Also I can't help but to laugh seeing Simon brushing this during the snowfalling... He is such an amazing madman
The fact that you crafted your own optimized shoe blew my mind. This much dedication and channeling of energy is a rare good and I love the fact that climbing can push us to find this obsession. When life is troubling, there's nothing better to hold on to, than a boulder.
@@teddycai1824 Yes, but that was it. Afterwards he seemed to go into an intimate reflection. A type of humility and humbleness not seen often in this sport lol. Almost like he acknowledged that he sent, but knew that his efforts were appreciated through his peers. Made it all the more profound for me first watch. Think we all can learn a bit from that attitude. I know I certainly can.
Incredible editing. Beautiful pacing. Diving deep into the process, both physically and psychologically. The musicality building tension throughout. And his last line while he sits on the boulder after ascending. What a film. Hats off to all the crew.
"It's a nice birthday present for you though." :) Simon, the underwear model, cobbler, shoe designer, dog whisperer, book gluer, tape master, and climber finds himself suddenly alone atop the rocky island.
I love that Simon/Mellow arent bowing to the "downgrade pressure" since Nico suggested 8C+. It's lame when one downgrade is allowed to take precedence over multiple other proposals.
Sublime film, sublime ascension, merci mille fois. Quel plaisir d'avoir accès à ça, à ce besoin d'obsession, de persévérance. A la beauté de ce sport extraordinaire, unique..
maybe my favorite hard bouldering film. i love love seeing so much of the process, including all of Simon's strategy, management of conditions, and modification of his equipment. that will hopefully help me with my hardest boulder ever! and just a really beautiful film. thanks
He is in Belgium national elite team. So he has most probably a paid athlete contract. But he is studying at the same time with an adapted schedule most probably. It's quite common in Belgium elite sport.
so good ! This ascent raised the debate about what is "ethical" or not in climbing and I think that's good. The insights about how much the boulder is condition dependent is really interesting as well. Looking forward to see new ascents (Charles Albert ?)
It's been repeated since by Nicolas Pelorson and Camille Coudert (the two people he mentions were working the boulder as well at the start of the video). I think Pelorson suggested 8C+ but Coudert suggested 9A. Perhaps it's a size difference as Pelorson is a fair bit taller than Simon.
I like the guy and the film and Mellow, and he can do whatever he wants as long as he tells what he's done, and be happy and proud and everything, but extending the dimensions of ones extremities with stuff (as opposed to changing the surface of part of that extremities) is aid. sorry.
@@oDazzleRazzle to each their own of course. me personally i would never feel comfortable with this level of aid; it takes away the magic of climbing using only ones genetics and earned strength/limbs to ascend. i thought it was kinda cool that one wouldnt abuse kneebars cause it hurts like hell. idk i have friends that use kneepads, i dont have a single climber friend that would be comfortable creating custom shoes to fit a specific rock or project.
@@Metalgear222isnt that what climbing shoes are to begin with though? Custom made shoes with varying stiffnesses and rubbers and fits to help us climb rocks. For instance, if there is a specific heel hook I will often wear two different pairs of shoes, one I like best for heel hooking on one foot and one I prefer for toeing in on the other.
So impressive, I love the footage ! The fact you have to optimize your VSR by destroying a Drago and it's still sponsorised by Scarpa made me laugh ! Bien joué mec =D
Yeah, the translation was a bit off on the climbing lingo. "Plugs" are a mistranslation since "prises" in french means both "holds" and "electrical outlets". Rulers are crimps, flats are non incut holds. I have no clue for "cartridges".
How involved is Simon in the editing and production of this video? It’s quite impressive, beautifully crafted. Impressed he has such talents in both climbing and videography/art.
Great documentary, thanks for putting it out on UA-cam! Incredibly well put together, especially since it must have been a lot of material to go through. It was very insightful to see Simon's dedication and attention to detail. I also liked seeing all the people around him in the montage at the end. Did you ask some of them to take part in the film or did you consciously stick closely to Simon?
Beau film, beau combat dans la durée, certains autres sports beaucoup mieux rémunérés pourraient s'en inspirer.....et belle libération à la fin ! Attention pour le "plus rien d'autres n'a d'importance" qui pourrait blesser les proches si dévoués par ailleurs, même si on a bien compris le sens de la phrase. La grimpe se "scientifise", les protos sont mis au point par l'athlète lui-même, intéressant, quel sera le nom de ce futur Scarpa ? Seulement Vn+1 ? 😉
That struck me too. Simon just accomplished something truly great and he's still concerned that he took something away from someone else. Seems like a genuinely good guy.
Even attempting something like this is beyond what all but a handful of people will ever do. And is an amazing accomplishment in any case. Seriously amazing. But maybe, it begs a question: The book, fans, pre chalking, etc - at what point are you bringing the climb down to your ability vs. bringing yourself up to the climb? If you are too short and add 2 inches of rubber to your shoe is that okay? Are any means justified? Does it even matter? I don't know but am curious what others think.
I cant believe you guys got the footage out this quickly
😭
Waiting a few years for a few ascents is the correct call. This is not necessarily a film about Simon. It's a film about Soudain Seul starring Simon. The story doesn't end with him.
Only took 3 years to release this 😍😍
Rock hard rn
Waiting for BoD in 4 years
@@MrWill830 5 years*
@@dreamways2581 I’m rock hard after that Simone in underwear scene 😫
Stay hard
I cant believe how dedicated Simon can be for a climb and his craft. Showing up sometimes is not enough. You have to clean snow off a rock by yourself, hand made your own optimized Frankenstein shoe and knee pad thickness/stiffness. Hunt down perfect conditions, and never believing you are not able to do it, instead thinking “what else can I perfect?” and “how can I be better?”. This ascent was really ahead of its time which is why the 9A grade got so much shit, but this man has done Burden of Dreams and Alphane now and will without a doubt do the ones in the US this upcoming season. So give him his flowers already and get over yourselves with the “book is aid” talks
The origin for the name of this boulder is so unique
And the name very beautiful and evocative. 😊
After 34:20 minutes only the dog is left listening to him talking about gluing thing together. After the dog leaves he is indeed soudain seul.
Underrated comment😂
What you think before watching : Scarpa provided the shoes of the FA !
What you think after watching : Scarpa did not provide the shoes of the FA.
Bravo ! Fricadelle pour fêter ça :)
I just love the ending scene with Simon finaly sending and 10 seconds later you see another guy brushing the holds. Cycle of life.
Man Simon's wife/GF is MVP... Well no there is also the guy who held the bouldermat for the sun...
So many amazing people...
Also I can't help but to laugh seeing Simon brushing this during the snowfalling... He is such an amazing madman
The fact that you crafted your own optimized shoe blew my mind. This much dedication and channeling of energy is a rare good and I love the fact that climbing can push us to find this obsession. When life is troubling, there's nothing better to hold on to, than a boulder.
It's a dragstinct lvsr
If there will ever be a bouldering museum, than this book definetly belongs there
The book is actually at the Brussels gym “Le Camp de Base” as an artefact 😊
No aggressive screams after the send, no cries of celebration. A simple "here I am, sitting on your island". Humble as can be. Unreal.
wdym he says "AH PUTAIN" right as he tops lol - amazing send nonetheless
@@teddycai1824 Yes, but that was it. Afterwards he seemed to go into an intimate reflection. A type of humility and humbleness not seen often in this sport lol. Almost like he acknowledged that he sent, but knew that his efforts were appreciated through his peers. Made it all the more profound for me first watch. Think we all can learn a bit from that attitude. I know I certainly can.
Incredible editing. Beautiful pacing. Diving deep into the process, both physically and psychologically. The musicality building tension throughout. And his last line while he sits on the boulder after ascending. What a film. Hats off to all the crew.
yeah, this is a boulderers edit for sure.
Better than any Reel Rock film I’ve seen in years! Well done.
"It's a nice birthday present for you though." :)
Simon, the underwear model, cobbler, shoe designer, dog whisperer, book gluer, tape master, and climber finds himself suddenly alone atop the rocky island.
peak cinema.
ENFIN des vidéos qui documentent le vrai process d'enchainer un bloc extreme. Soudain Seul et Alphane, deux films hyper inspirants. BRAVO
blocking the sun with the crashpad is hilarious
Crash pad sunglasses are aid
whatever helps get your homie sends...
I love that Simon/Mellow arent bowing to the "downgrade pressure" since Nico suggested 8C+. It's lame when one downgrade is allowed to take precedence over multiple other proposals.
Reading books? ❌
Glueing them to your leg ✅
Sublime film, sublime ascension, merci mille fois. Quel plaisir d'avoir accès à ça, à ce besoin d'obsession, de persévérance. A la beauté de ce sport extraordinaire, unique..
maybe my favorite hard bouldering film. i love love seeing so much of the process, including all of Simon's strategy, management of conditions, and modification of his equipment. that will hopefully help me with my hardest boulder ever! and just a really beautiful film. thanks
Incroyable, tant sur le montage que sur l'effort, l'histoire, les musiques, l'ambiance de Bleau tellement bien mise en avant... Ouf
Love these videos that capture the whole story of the boulder and process!
Finally got round to watching this, what a mega, Simon is truly a pioneer, also love seeing the origin of the name 💪 revolutionary work Simon!!!
Definetly one of the best bouldering videos (movies) ever released!!
Haaaa, enfin un septante dans une vidéo francophone, merci! Good job btw!!
I know it's a friendly rivalry, but "Here I am, sitting on your island" is just ice cold
Another masterpiece, must have been long to edit so thanks for this short movie and congrats for the send !!
One of the most breathtaking films I have ever seen. Phenomenal work!
Hea not even a sponsored climber. Guy works a normal job. What a weekend warrior 😂
he said exam so I assume uni student?
He is in Belgium national elite team. So he has most probably a paid athlete contract. But he is studying at the same time with an adapted schedule most probably. It's quite common in Belgium elite sport.
Thank you Gilles for making such amazing content and Simon for being such a beast! See you next time in Vendôme for another documentary hehe
so good ! This ascent raised the debate about what is "ethical" or not in climbing and I think that's good. The insights about how much the boulder is condition dependent is really interesting as well. Looking forward to see new ascents (Charles Albert ?)
It's been repeated since by Nicolas Pelorson and Camille Coudert (the two people he mentions were working the boulder as well at the start of the video). I think Pelorson suggested 8C+ but Coudert suggested 9A. Perhaps it's a size difference as Pelorson is a fair bit taller than Simon.
Stunning content, stunning ascent and a joyful and powerful athlete. Merci pour cette vidéo Gilles et Simon
Amazing gimbal work on the send, must have been nerve wracking. Well worth the wait. Thank you, Gilles!
Wow this is beautiful, super interesting to see he finding al the adjustments needed to do the boulder
This is the type of story you read about in books. Super inspiring.
Absolutely beautiful
What a journey! This is the best climbing movie I've watched in a long time. Thank you for sharing it with us.
wonderful video, well done Gilles !
This film is superb !!!!!
Lovely, thanks for sharing! Awesome work here to everyone involved! Bravo!
Super-glue custom shoes, changing book thickness and stiffness for kneepads, air-suspended fans on crux holds. Wild.
Are you saying it shouldn’t count? I’m genuinely curious not trying to be argumentative
I like the guy and the film and Mellow, and he can do whatever he wants as long as he tells what he's done, and be happy and proud and everything, but extending the dimensions of ones extremities with stuff (as opposed to changing the surface of part of that extremities) is aid. sorry.
@@oDazzleRazzle to each their own of course. me personally i would never feel comfortable with this level of aid; it takes away the magic of climbing using only ones genetics and earned strength/limbs to ascend. i thought it was kinda cool that one wouldnt abuse kneebars cause it hurts like hell. idk i have friends that use kneepads, i dont have a single climber friend that would be comfortable creating custom shoes to fit a specific rock or project.
@@Metalgear222isnt that what climbing shoes are to begin with though? Custom made shoes with varying stiffnesses and rubbers and fits to help us climb rocks. For instance, if there is a specific heel hook I will often wear two different pairs of shoes, one I like best for heel hooking on one foot and one I prefer for toeing in on the other.
@@homesboy13579 It is indeed arbitrary where one draws the line... chalk and shoes somehow fit into "one's genetics and earned strength/limbs" lol
Phenomenal editing
Great video. Fascinating to see the attention to detail manipulating the shoe rubber.
I really liked watching olympics today but this was soo much better
Fan of these guys 🫶🏼
So all I need to climb V17 is to glue a book to my leg and mix two shoes together? Damn! Great film ❤️
And maybe become Simon lorenzi
So impressive, I love the footage ! The fact you have to optimize your VSR by destroying a Drago and it's still sponsorised by Scarpa made me laugh ! Bien joué mec =D
A masterpiece.
Great film thanks for posting 😀
Haven't even watched it yet and I'm already excited 😂
Beautiful!
Thank for sharing!
Legendary 9a
Such a cool film, insane the dedication these guys have to completing these boulders
This is beautiful
Mellow présente Simon L :) et de belle manière. Beau et humain. Je me suis refait celle de Nico P en passant. Thx a lot
Happy to wait 3 years to see the FA
Finallyyyy!! Sick send Belgian crusher 👊
Dinguerie !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best movie i ever sow❤
Great now we have to hear comments about books being aid 😂
Using books has always been aid
@@Raisenbread what if i cant read?
This is the output when you find an old hard drive with some random footage under your desk
So inspiring!
This one is an instant classic. Gives the same vibes as alphane and megatron
i cant wait to watch this
52:52 is such a great shot
57:57 is aswell
Ohh i love this pure insanity,, it make me feel good little bit for being human
Core strength to lift the right foot near the top move. The instinct knows the best method, shown in the first ascent.
bien jouer mec la classe
i would love to know what plugs, ramps, flats, and rulers are
All the things he glues to himself to get up this boulder. 😂
don't forget the cartridges!!!
I only know that flats are slopers and rulers are crimps (in portuguese we use the french names for those)
Yeah, the translation was a bit off on the climbing lingo. "Plugs" are a mistranslation since "prises" in french means both "holds" and "electrical outlets". Rulers are crimps, flats are non incut holds. I have no clue for "cartridges".
Awesome vid, legendary ascent. One note in the translation "ruler" would more adequately be translated to "crimp".
Machine de guerre
Surreal!!
How involved is Simon in the editing and production of this video? It’s quite impressive, beautifully crafted. Impressed he has such talents in both climbing and videography/art.
Great documentary, thanks for putting it out on UA-cam! Incredibly well put together, especially since it must have been a lot of material to go through. It was very insightful to see Simon's dedication and attention to detail.
I also liked seeing all the people around him in the montage at the end. Did you ask some of them to take part in the film or did you consciously stick closely to Simon?
Amazing movie!!!!!!!!!!
We need a Simon and Will Bosi boulder co-lab!
Here it comes
Which works better in the kneepad - fiction or non-fiction?
This guy tactics are next level
SI SEÑOR ES CINE
If this is what’s needed to send 9A, then the first 9A+ will be sent by an obscure Italian shoemaker.
Beau film, beau combat dans la durée, certains autres sports beaucoup mieux rémunérés pourraient s'en inspirer.....et belle libération à la fin !
Attention pour le "plus rien d'autres n'a d'importance" qui pourrait blesser les proches si dévoués par ailleurs, même si on a bien compris le sens de la phrase.
La grimpe se "scientifise", les protos sont mis au point par l'athlète lui-même, intéressant, quel sera le nom de ce futur Scarpa ? Seulement Vn+1 ? 😉
Fantastic 🤙🤙
Here i am, sitting on your island.
That struck me too. Simon just accomplished something truly great and he's still concerned that he took something away from someone else. Seems like a genuinely good guy.
And I guess that yeah, this is a bouldering video
Very good. 9a level editing :)
Been waiting for this
Amazing! Also cool seeing charles albert. Did he send the big island? Would be sick!
Appreciate the amount of crag dogs
Incroyable
Even attempting something like this is beyond what all but a handful of people will ever do. And is an amazing accomplishment in any case. Seriously amazing. But maybe, it begs a question: The book, fans, pre chalking, etc - at what point are you bringing the climb down to your ability vs. bringing yourself up to the climb? If you are too short and add 2 inches of rubber to your shoe is that okay? Are any means justified? Does it even matter? I don't know but am curious what others think.
Daaaam, amazing film. Resume in 3 things: Book, Glue and 1 Frankstein Shoes climb
this is so fire
I live for long Mellow videos
Super nice video
Inspiring
This film made me realize how bouldering tends toward the obsessive. Lol. I'm the same way with a project.
Send footage at 51:20
Thank you now I can watch this part quickly in the toilet and later when I get home from work I can watch the whole thing
Insane
.... Sorry i forgot to tape Rec. Can u do It again?? 😅😂😂😜
when he send it, and after so many tries, for real, I didn't know if I'd pressed rec haha