You may wonder why I didn't consider using aluminum or metal since I have a lathe. Simple reason: I already had the PE laying around which meant I didn't have to spend any money on that.
The real question is why did you use a 3D printer at the beginning instead of the lathe ? Especially in this case where removing material from a blank is particularly adequate ...
@@esakhwaja8592 Yes, it is possible to make 100% infill (no airgaps inside the printed object) on 3D printed objects. There's usually an infill setting where you can specify how much infill the objetc will get. This however drastically increases the printing time if you are using 100% infill.
@Anifco67 If you have a good 3d Printer you just need to turn it on and print the object. There is not that much work involved, he probably just made a 3d Model in like 5mins for that piece and send it directly to the 3d Printer. If it didnt failed it would have been alot less work and cleanup to do. In the video it seemed he made that piece in 5 mins but actually it probably took him more than an hour.
@@gaetanpulfer4060 It appears he only has one block of PE, but needed to make two pulleys. So why not try printing both instead of just one? Also, he's a content creator. Even his failures make for engaging content.
You have a fantastic workshop, full of equipment, which must have taken a long time to either build &/or purchase. Plus, with your mastery of use, makes it look so easy to manufacture virtually anything...
One source for polyvee belts is automotive bone yards. Almost all cars use them today for their belt driven accessories. Water pumps, alternators, A/C compressors etc. When machining plastics I used to like getting the speed and feed just right to get the waste straight into a circular file.
Hi Marius, great videos !! You can set the period of acceleration (few seconds) in the VFD so acceleration will be less brutal. Good job, I like your content
Marius, been watching your channel for a long while now. Found it because of your wood working. It seems you have many more talents. Do you ever plan on making videos about 3D printing? The few things you have show us are very handy items. Also, didn't know you had a lathe for metal. You have an opportunity for much more content.
First time in a while ive seen you using the pantorouter. How has that machine stood the test of time for you? Is it made obsolete by your cnc machine?
the other day I was making a sharpening jig in a similar plastic (not sure wich because lable said recycled plastic) and sawing made a lot of burrs.. Using a knife or a plane on the same burr... aaaah... like cutting butter. So I put the blocks to the beltsander.. turned out it didnt get better.. it actually sucked all wood dust from belt and embeded it in the plastic. :D Tonight I am going to put a block in the lathe and see where that ends :) Probably like on your outtake shot..
dunno what settings ya used, but if ya try again for fun, id try use prusa slicer and use it to make a moddifier. Copy the part and edit it for a thick spoke wheel like design. export it. take the original put it in prusa slicer. the orginal design is processed as normal with the settings you wish to have the space between the spokes, say like 20% infill or something. right click the original and go to moddifiers load in the spoke design. the spoke design is then put in the exact same place as the original but right click and make it a moddifier, then use the modifier to make it 100% infill or super think walls and 75% infill.
Moin! Unwarranted suggestion from a theoretical machinist, feel free to discard or ignore: Quinn from Blondihacks has shown a trick on avoid long stands of waste material tangling on the spinning work. She mounts a vacuum on the tool and the long strand of waste material gets sucked in the vacuum hose without posing the risk of pushing the work or worse catching a finger.
Great video as usual!, but about the use of the magnets, what are the tolerances of their hights? arent you at risk ending up inducing an error that's worse than the cast surface of the PE as its often quite straight?
If you're in the UK then www.theonestopplasticsshop.co.uk does a good selection of copolymer (PP), PE, HDPE and the rest. Sheet, block, rod, etc. ....I rent a unit to a firm who uses the stuff extensively and they often give me their offcuts. As someone who mostly works in wood & metal plastic is super satisfying to work with for some reason. Especially when you get into plastic welding and the like.
Your videos are excellent and I watch every one of them. I think the three phase AC motor has immense startup torque, as you have mentioned. The two large wheels of the band saw and blade make for a large startup inertial resistance. You have to get all that mass moving and spinning. I think the cross pin is way too short. There is a lot of force on the plastic during spin up. The pin should be longer.
I was going to ask why you didn't make it out of aluminium but a quick check of the prices and I see that aluminium is about three times the price for large sheets. Nice work either way.
Hey Marius! I bet in the future you can use a gradient infill on pulleys! Check out CNCKitchen's video on "Gradient Infill." Or perhaps the "smart infill" video may be more suitable.
For the 3d printed version, seems like you put in a whole lot of perimeters but had basically the default bottom and top layers. It completely sheered off. I usually try to have the same bottom top thickness than the side wall when I do mechanical parts. Having the model with cutouts with a branch style design would probably have helped distribute the load to the outer portion. Still, your final solution is probably better for long term reliability. 3d printed parts definitely has its limits
Top and bottom layer were 2 layers more than default. For the motor pulley 3D printing is not the optimal choice, but for the wheel pulley I think it's a good solution.
Marius Hornberger 3d printing is usually cheap and effortless enough that it’s worth a try. For a 0.4 mm nozzle, I usually print 0.25 layer height, 0.5 mm line width and use double the amount of layers vs perimeters for a equal thickness all around, 1 more for top since the first over the infill kind of doesn’t count. 4 or 5 perimeters with 50% infill is usually my go to settings for those kind of parts and they end up surprisingly sturdy. Good work! Keep it up 👍
Cost and quality, pride of ownership & accomplishment, etc, etc. In other words, the usual reasons for making something instead of buying it. Here is the designer's intro video for the saw I believe Marius built. woodgears.ca/bandsaw/homemade.html
looks very thin walled, use thicker walls and top/bottoms. i usually go with 3mm or thicker. infill isnt that important, 10..20% would even work fine with this.
I wonder why you are going for almost a 1:1 ratio. Do you also want to achieve higher speed for cutting wood? To make the saw more capable for cutting metal it might have been better to go for a 1:2 ratio that would result in more torque at lower speed. For cutting wood you could then just let the VFD run at 100Hz to achieve the same speed for cutting wood as before.
@@MariusHornberger You don't plan on letting the motor run faster than 50Hz? To get best performance for the whole range it might be better to set the max. cutting speed at a higher frequency.
With a lathe like this I never would have considered printing the drive wheel. Not with a print time of 9 hours plus the finish on the lathe. Maybe more fun and interessting but for sure not economical.
Nothing you just said is wrong, but sometimes I 3D print things that shouldn't really be 3D printed, just to see if I can make them work. I find the challenge fun. But I'm wierd, just ask my wife!
Good choice of material. I love 3D-printing, but pulley wheels for these kind of applications is a wrong implementation of the technique. 3D-printed parts will not be strong enough unless you design your own algorithmic infill and internal support structures and choice of filament matters a lot.
Tja, ich drücke alle Daumen, das das auf Dauer hält, größere Beträge würd ich aber nicht drauf wetten. Ich denke, PE ist weicher als die vorher genutzte Siebdruckplatte und du hast erlebt, was ein lausiger Riemen mit dem Holz gemacht hat. Und Siebdruckplatte ist schon ziemlich hart im Nehmen. Wie gesagt, ich drücke die Daumen. das die Stiftlagerung hält und das der Anrtriebsriemen sich nicht in die Rillen einfräst. Gruß Jo
There's no way to say this which won't sound disrespectful, but I certainly mean no disrespect. All the colored plastic in the pantorouter shot makes it look like a toy. Funny.
Warum baust du dir keinen Sanftstarter ein? Dann ist das Drehmoment beim einschalten nicht so hoch und du hättest auch das Problem des durchrutschens nicht mehr. Das ganze würde den Motor und die Konstruktion deutlich schonen.
You may wonder why I didn't consider using aluminum or metal since I have a lathe. Simple reason: I already had the PE laying around which meant I didn't have to spend any money on that.
The real question is why did you use a 3D printer at the beginning instead of the lathe ?
Especially in this case where removing material from a blank is particularly adequate ...
@@esakhwaja8592 Yes, it is possible to make 100% infill (no airgaps inside the printed object) on 3D printed objects. There's usually an infill setting where you can specify how much infill the objetc will get. This however drastically increases the printing time if you are using 100% infill.
@Esa Khwaja: yes, you can set the infill to 100%
@Anifco67 If you have a good 3d Printer you just need to turn it on and print the object. There is not that much work involved, he probably just made a 3d Model in like 5mins for that piece and send it directly to the 3d Printer. If it didnt failed it would have been alot less work and cleanup to do. In the video it seemed he made that piece in 5 mins but actually it probably took him more than an hour.
@@gaetanpulfer4060 It appears he only has one block of PE, but needed to make two pulleys. So why not try printing both instead of just one? Also, he's a content creator. Even his failures make for engaging content.
You have a fantastic workshop, full of equipment, which must have taken a long time to either build &/or purchase.
Plus, with your mastery of use, makes it look so easy to manufacture virtually anything...
Well rounded work, Herr Hornberger.
Let’s have a round of applause.
One source for polyvee belts is automotive bone yards. Almost all cars use them today for their belt driven accessories. Water pumps, alternators, A/C compressors etc.
When machining plastics I used to like getting the speed and feed just right to get the waste straight into a circular file.
You can be a lot more aggressive with PE on a metal lathe, both with RPM and with feed. Also try to shorten the tailstock extension if possible
Yeah I was thinking the exact same thing
Hi Marius, great videos !!
You can set the period of acceleration (few seconds) in the VFD so acceleration will be less brutal. Good job, I like your content
Brilliant, Marius~!! This is yet another of your videos that shows why you are one of my favorite makers~!! Great job~!
Nice work man!! I freaking love that router table setup. I’ve never seen one like that. Not sure what I’d use it for but I want one lol
I love love love love love that jig! I'm making one of those this weekend for sure
Some more videos about constructing machines like this please :)
un trabajo bien hecho, da gusto verlo
Great work!
Tolle Idee und Top gebaut und gedreht
Marius, been watching your channel for a long while now. Found it because of your wood working. It seems you have many more talents. Do you ever plan on making videos about 3D printing? The few things you have show us are very handy items. Also, didn't know you had a lathe for metal. You have an opportunity for much more content.
I have a video about many 3D printed objects I made
First time in a while ive seen you using the pantorouter. How has that machine stood the test of time for you? Is it made obsolete by your cnc machine?
What a pleasure watching your videos, thank you 🙏🏼
As always, excellent workmanship! I wonder if you are going to have electrostatic buildup issues between the belt and the poly? Worth testing.
0:38 I feel your anguish Marius.
As always another great piece of content Thanks Marius
i love the PE stuff, i use it on my cnc, same color PE :)
the other day I was making a sharpening jig in a similar plastic (not sure wich because lable said recycled plastic) and sawing made a lot of burrs.. Using a knife or a plane
on the same burr... aaaah... like cutting butter. So I put the blocks to the beltsander.. turned out it didnt get better.. it actually sucked all wood dust from belt and embeded it in the plastic. :D
Tonight I am going to put a block in the lathe and see where that ends :) Probably like on your outtake shot..
dunno what settings ya used, but if ya try again for fun, id try use prusa slicer and use it to make a moddifier.
Copy the part and edit it for a thick spoke wheel like design. export it. take the original put it in prusa slicer.
the orginal design is processed as normal with the settings you wish to have the space between the spokes, say like 20% infill or something. right click the original and go to moddifiers load in the spoke design. the spoke design is then put in the exact same place as the original but right click and make it a moddifier, then use the modifier to make it 100% infill or super think walls and 75% infill.
seems like a lot of torque for a plastic pulley. good luck.
Cool working
Thank you
Moin! Unwarranted suggestion from a theoretical machinist, feel free to discard or ignore: Quinn from Blondihacks has shown a trick on avoid long stands of waste material tangling on the spinning work. She mounts a vacuum on the tool and the long strand of waste material gets sucked in the vacuum hose without posing the risk of pushing the work or worse catching a finger.
good idea
Great video as usual!, but about the use of the magnets, what are the tolerances of their hights? arent you at risk ending up inducing an error that's worse than the cast surface of the PE as its often quite straight?
Would be nice to have some links to where you buy the material you use, like the polyethylene.
I got it locally, so there are no links to share
If you're in the UK then www.theonestopplasticsshop.co.uk does a good selection of copolymer (PP), PE, HDPE and the rest. Sheet, block, rod, etc.
....I rent a unit to a firm who uses the stuff extensively and they often give me their offcuts.
As someone who mostly works in wood & metal plastic is super satisfying to work with for some reason. Especially when you get into plastic welding and the like.
Your videos are excellent and I watch every one of them.
I think the three phase AC motor has immense startup torque, as you have mentioned. The two large wheels of the band saw and blade make for a large startup inertial resistance. You have to get all that mass moving and spinning.
I think the cross pin is way too short. There is a lot of force on the plastic during spin up. The pin should be longer.
Thanks you for your video and work.
is that the best material to turn? or what other Polymer or plastic is nice to turn?
Danke für das Video.
Was ist das für eine grüne Plastik?
Das ist Polyethylen. Wenn man nach PE300 googelt, sollte man es finden
Hmm... I think the limiting factor is going to be traction... HDPE is slippery stuff... 🤔
Nicely done! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
where did you get that 40° tool from?
So simple!
I was going to ask why you didn't make it out of aluminium but a quick check of the prices and I see that aluminium is about three times the price for large sheets. Nice work either way.
Hey Marius! I bet in the future you can use a gradient infill on pulleys! Check out CNCKitchen's video on "Gradient Infill." Or perhaps the "smart infill" video may be more suitable.
Can you link to the circle cutting router jig plz? It looked like a really good design.
I just did
Verry nice video if you use a leftspiral cutter you do not have bur for PE or other plastix 👍👍😊
For the 3d printed version, seems like you put in a whole lot of perimeters but had basically the default bottom and top layers. It completely sheered off. I usually try to have the same bottom top thickness than the side wall when I do mechanical parts. Having the model with cutouts with a branch style design would probably have helped distribute the load to the outer portion. Still, your final solution is probably better for long term reliability. 3d printed parts definitely has its limits
Top and bottom layer were 2 layers more than default. For the motor pulley 3D printing is not the optimal choice, but for the wheel pulley I think it's a good solution.
Marius Hornberger 3d printing is usually cheap and effortless enough that it’s worth a try. For a 0.4 mm nozzle, I usually print 0.25 layer height, 0.5 mm line width and use double the amount of layers vs perimeters for a equal thickness all around, 1 more for top since the first over the infill kind of doesn’t count. 4 or 5 perimeters with 50% infill is usually my go to settings for those kind of parts and they end up surprisingly sturdy. Good work! Keep it up 👍
In my experience, nothing sticks well to HPDE. Did you have to take especially light cuts when working it? Thanks.
No, I could be quite aggressive
Wie immer Top👌
Great job
Hi Marius
what is the different between wood band saw and iron band saw? just the rpm or is there more?
Cost and quality, pride of ownership & accomplishment, etc, etc. In other words, the usual reasons for making something instead of buying it. Here is the designer's intro video for the saw I believe Marius built.
woodgears.ca/bandsaw/homemade.html
2:14 What is the black 3d printed part at the corner of the lathe headstock?
It's a holder for the headstock/chuck cover, because its hinge isn't the best
Excelente 👍
Marius is Germany's answer to Matthias Wandel. Same speech pattern!
Matthias Wandel is Germany's answer to Matthias Wandel.
The outtake section is a bit light on this one. Please mess up more ;-)
😂
sag mal woher bekommst du hier in deutschland dein hartholz? suche nach einer guten Quelle seit ner weile.
ich hab ein Sägewerk im Umkreis gefunden, das Harthölzer zusägt, trocknet und verkauft.
looks very thin walled, use thicker walls and top/bottoms. i usually go with 3mm or thicker. infill isnt that important, 10..20% would even work fine with this.
You really tickled that with the lathe 😂
But nice.
Can you link to the video about your router jig?
I added a couple links
@@MariusHornberger ta a lot.
I wonder why you are going for almost a 1:1 ratio. Do you also want to achieve higher speed for cutting wood? To make the saw more capable for cutting metal it might have been better to go for a 1:2 ratio that would result in more torque at lower speed. For cutting wood you could then just let the VFD run at 100Hz to achieve the same speed for cutting wood as before.
I aimed for 25 m/s max. cutting speed with the motor still running at 50Hz. And the pulley ratio is almost 1:1 for that
@@MariusHornberger You don't plan on letting the motor run faster than 50Hz? To get best performance for the whole range it might be better to set the max. cutting speed at a higher frequency.
With a lathe like this I never would have considered printing the drive wheel. Not with a print time of 9 hours plus the finish on the lathe. Maybe more fun and interessting but for sure not economical.
Nothing you just said is wrong, but sometimes I 3D print things that shouldn't really be 3D printed, just to see if I can make them work. I find the challenge fun.
But I'm wierd, just ask my wife!
😊👍
Good choice of material. I love 3D-printing, but pulley wheels for these kind of applications is a wrong implementation of the technique. 3D-printed parts will not be strong enough unless you design your own algorithmic infill and internal support structures and choice of filament matters a lot.
Great vid! U forgot turning rule #1 in at 5:19 ;-)
I know :(...my dad also already told me
Makes me cringe that part. You only ever do or hear it done once but you’ll never forget it 😉
Always enjoy your videos... Pity you swear - guess it's more normal in Germany
Lol
06:56 - that's where the visual ASMR starts
additive not there yet, back to subtractive..
Tja, ich drücke alle Daumen, das das auf Dauer hält, größere Beträge würd ich aber nicht drauf wetten. Ich denke, PE ist weicher als die vorher genutzte Siebdruckplatte und du hast erlebt, was ein lausiger Riemen mit dem Holz gemacht hat. Und Siebdruckplatte ist schon ziemlich hart im Nehmen. Wie gesagt, ich drücke die Daumen. das die Stiftlagerung hält und das der Anrtriebsriemen sich nicht in die Rillen einfräst.
Gruß
Jo
There's no way to say this which won't sound disrespectful, but I certainly mean no disrespect.
All the colored plastic in the pantorouter shot makes it look like a toy. Funny.
Warum baust du dir keinen Sanftstarter ein? Dann ist das Drehmoment beim einschalten nicht so hoch und du hättest auch das Problem des durchrutschens nicht mehr. Das ganze würde den Motor und die Konstruktion deutlich schonen.
Kommt dass nicht mit dem Frequenzumrichter 🤔
Ich baue einen Frequenzumrichter ein. Der erfüllt dann Sanftstart, sämtliche Schutzfunktionen und variable Geschwindigkeit, die ich auch haben wollte