Stop Ruining Your Work... + 3 Other Tips Every Woodworker Should Know
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- Опубліковано 30 бер 2022
- More Woodworking Tips! - • Tips and Tricks Every ...
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REFERENCED PROJECT VIDEOS
▸ How to Build a Bed - • The Best "How To Build...
▸ More Tear Out Tips - • Perfect Miters and 3 O...
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In this video we cover 4 woodworking tips. The tips include setting perfect cut depths on a router, 5 tricks for avoiding tear out, 2 ways to fill gaps in your joints, and why should use a thicker marker line to mark out cut lines...sometimes.
HOW TO SUBMIT A TIP
Submit your woodworking tip by emailing it to us at tips@foureyesfurniture.com
Here’s what to include:
1. In the subject line of your email, include a short description of tip (example: “How To Chop an Onion w/out crying” )
2. In the body of your email, include a detailed description of your tip. If you have pictures or video, all the better. Anything that will help us to better understand your tip is appreciated. Don’t worry about high production on this stuff. We’ll take care of that.
3. Where you’d like to be credited. Your Instagram Handle, your UA-cam Channel, just your name…or even anonymous. Just let us know. - Навчання та стиль
Thanks for watching! Here are the videos we referenced in this video:
▸ How to Build a Bed - ua-cam.com/video/0BdNUBIUpxo/v-deo.html
▸ More Tear Out Tips - ua-cam.com/video/_KEw83c8T98/v-deo.html
WHERE'S THE TAPE BALL?
Gentlemen, when I absolutely need a tear out free cut on the table saw, I pre-score cut it. I set the blade depth to 1/16" and run the board over it making a 1/16" pre-score cut. Then I set the blade to the appropriate height for the board for full cut and run it through for the final cut. Absolutely no tear out. This mimics the pre scoring commercial saws do with pre score blades.
All the Best, Chuck
For an absolutely tear out free cut, you need a knife wall
@@WorkingViews Yes, a "Knifewall" is an awesome technique. It is usually applied when using hand tools like chisels or hand saws on shorter cut lengths, for things like tenon shoulders or mortise edges, etc. This is limited by how far one could accurately cut a Knifewall, and you'd need to be absolutely dead-on when lining it up to the blade, on the table saw, if not, oh well. That is why pre-scoring is so nice, it is cut at the exact same settings as the final cut is to be made.
All the Best, Chuck
My wood filler solution is to keep separate jars of sawdust in the shop. My favorite source is the bag on my sander. I label the jars for each species so there’s no mistake. I also use white glue to make the paste. I’ve found that yellow wood glue has a tendency to darken the final outcome, whereas white glue leaves the filler a more natural color when dried.
If you are planning on staining your work piece then apply your stain before attempt this patch. The glues encapsulate the wood dust/fibers which prevents them from taking on any of the tint from the stain. If you stain first, then the color of the dust/fibers will be correct.
I think that learning on shop projects is even better than learning on regular projects. You have the margin to screw up and try again (because it's a project for you), you can mix and match techniques and materials (because who cares), and you end up with something useful in the shop that is a semi-permanent reminder of the things you learned!
I enjoyed your video; thank you for it. The part that had me chuckling, however, is using bed rail hardware as the example for getting the router bit perfectly flush. Those things are notorious for being loose if you do that. I always have to inset both pieces just a tad to get a nice tight fit between them. The ideal fit requires a few light taps from a mallet to get the rail on.
I find when doing the glue fill trick with CA glue, I will press saw dust into the gap first, then flood with CA, then sand and press more in. CA is so thin that this seems to work well and you can get more wood particles into the joint.
I shoulda read the comments before I posted basically the EXACT same thing!!
I used to use pencil to identify project parts or orientation. Then I'd be annoyed that I had a lot of pencil marks to sand off, or I'd sand them off, then need the information afterward. Now I use a little piece of blue tape and a sharpie. When sanding, I can pull the tape off, then stick it back on afterwards.
Great video, except I was troubled by the absence of the tape ball. Did it get lost? Eaten by the dog? May I send you my tape scraps to help restore it?
I had the same tape ball fears! 😂
So practical, so simple and yet not the first thing I would think of. The sharpie to sneak up on the finish edge is ingenius
Thanks guys, good video. If you release the router depth instead of pulling the pattern (ie bed rail connector) then you don't risk moving your depth stop pulling it out. Great tips, and yes, I like the glue sawdust mix best as well.
Regarding cross cut tear out: tape the cut line, and you can use a sacrificial board to fully support the end grain.
I love the cheeky b-roll of you trying to sand the metal hardware
The simple insight about blade direction - table saw versus circular saw - was a brilliant and so helpful.
That first tip is gold. Thanks man!
I always use glue and sawdust, but use the correct size of saw dust.
Big fibrous stuff for big fills as they "look better" when sanded and powdery stuff for small cracks that are hard to push into.
The correct amount of glue to wood is critical. Too dry and it is hard to get into the cracks and too wet, there isn't enough wood fibers so the fill is off.
I always put an excess on, so that when dry and sanding everything is flush and shrinkage (if that happens) doesn't exist.
I absolutely love your content and delivery style. Laid back, quiet, concise, and most of all, straight to the point.
Love the series fellas! I learned to do a score cut on the table saw, just break the first ply on the first pass, then raise up for through cut, glassy smooth!
Regarding router depth accuracy -
1. get one, that has lock on the "right" side! So left side can be limited with the limiter and right side with the lock as all rails flex under pressure.
2. fine adjustment knob will help.
Some tools are designed by people who don't use them.
For the beginners out there a easy way to remember which one needs a higher number of teeth is
Crosscut has more letters than rip
Rip = fewer teeth
Crosscut = more teeth
Just think of number of letters in the word equals number of teeth, sorta.
Hope it helps.
That router depth tip is epic. Never thought of that! Thanks!
If I watch tips and project videos I build up a feeling for woodworking. Also I can pick and choose what I need for the project I plan to do...
Respect for the “don’t watch tips videos “ advice.
Armchair woodwork has its limits in terms of how much can be retained.
That being said, tips are often nice and entertaining smallish chunks of time. Some of it might stick and if not then it can always be watched again when it’s needed.
So, yes and no 😜
Thanks for the tips.
Hello Chirs, I just discovered your channel two days ago, thanks for sharing your knowledge. I just decided to open my channel on UA-cam about 7 months ago, I'm just taking the first steps. Very good job you do, author furniture, 100% art. Thanks for inspiring. Greetings from Valencia, 🇪🇸.
The sharpie method makes so much sense, great film guys, thank you 👏😀👍
wow - that night stand is the best thing you've ever made! DOPE!
Sure he gets better and bette, but me, I personally came like 3 time while was watching that previous bed video)
For the circular saw, I always use a circular saw track, which eliminates tearout since all the pieces that would tear up are stopped by the track. Its really cool.
Hey, I from Brazil and I find your videos very didactic, fresh, and inspirational. Thanks for this work.
I completely agree with project videos. I have learned so much by seeing tip videos and then see the use of different techniques in a project and it makes it click. It also saves time in the shop because you have a solution to a lot of your problems
Appreciate it. I hope some others will take my advice on this :)
Hi Cris. I have been following your channel for a while. What draws me to your work is the techniques you use in cutting various shapes and profiles; not to forget the emphasis on accuracy. I was wondering if you have a way cutting an end profile that is one half of a cone. Perhaps that doesn't describe it well enough. Imagine the feet of a table such that the sectional view would be rectangle and a semicircle. Now if that section were to taper towards the base (or the top), how would one cut that??
Nice video Chris and Shaun Thanks for sharing it with us!👍💖😎JP
The router depth tip!
Awesome! I was worried how I was going to get the exact death for inserting a t-track for a router table.
Feel much more confident with that tip. 👍🏻
Pure gold! Thank you!
Your videos are the best I have watched. I am a new woodworker rookie? Well almost. Waiting for our new house and shop. Made a move from California (Ventura county) to Oklahoma. Gave/sold our furniture, I have decided to make some of our furniture. Tables night stands etc.
I have started buying tools.
Any videos on tools for beginners.
Thank you very much.
Thanks William. We haven’t exactly made those videos. We do have 1 on table saws vs track saws. Another on miter saws. I think you’ll find those useful.
Generally speaking though. I like the recommendation of picking a project. Gettting the tools necessary for that project. And then keep doing that and eventually you’ll get to the point where you’ve got most of what you need for any project.
Unfortunately there is no magic list of “here is what you need” becuase everybody thinks differently. And the things you DO need. I can promise you that you already know.
Nicely done, as usual. Thanks guys!
The Jordan 1's on the wall are awesome
Great information keep it going
That joint filling method is very helpful
I love watching your videos, but sometimes feel like I can't to many of the things you demonstrate due to the limitations of my workspace & tools. I LOVE your videos where you demonstrate how to accomplish tasks with just a circular saw and a drill, for example. How long did it take you to build your shop? I know this is a job for you, so its a little different, but any perspective you can offer about developing an effective "stable" of tools would be much appreciated. 💯 keep it up!
More great tips. My only issue with the Sharpie tip... on soft woods, it tends to soak in, run with the grain and can hard to get rid of the stain... even after sanding. I use a dull fat carpenter's pencil instead. It leaves a fat line and only on the surface.
If I have a gap to fill, I usually use shellac and wood dust instead of wood glue. Since I usually use shellac as a sanding sealer, it doesn't interfere with the finish.
Muas gracias por compartir estos datos...!!! Saludos desde Uruguay...!!!
I have never thought of that with a router. Great idea
Great tips !!!
Love the bed frame project.
Thanks :)
Fascinating video, thanks. Can you recommend a good way to get accurate depth setting on a circular saw? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Hi thanks for posting , just what I was looking for.
Thanks never won anything be for. What happens now?
Great tips!
Good video and tips again! thanks. But i think there is pros ang cons in using sharpie on marking something on wood. And what i think is big con with sharpie on wood is that it will sink in, more or less, depending on wood, and that makes it more inaccurate.
Thank you so much Julien Lamache
The best tip I've picked up from you guys is to run the curved section of the router along a straight edge, rather than the flat section.
good tips there guys !
As always...great video.
Tear out at table saw..... Skip the tape and lower the blade! Just a couple of teeth above the surface. Lets the blade push the fiber backwards instead of downwards, and its safer ...... Eazy peacy 🤗
Hey, @ 9:19 looking at your glue mat, do you get as much enjoyment from peeling the glue off the mat as I do? Just as satisfying as popping bubble wrap.
Great video again Chris, some lovely camera work. But there was something missing. Can't quite put my finger on it. I think it is something to do with blue tape, but I did see blue tape featured. No, still niggling at me! The trick with tricks and tips is to save them so you can use them when they are useful in a project. Actually, no, that's not the trick. The trick is to remember where you saved them so you can use them when you get to that point in a project. Using the sharpie for marking to allow room for final trimming is a good one.
Excellent tips
I love that the first tip is literally "learn how to use the depth gauge, that's what it's for"
I figured out that measuring was hurting my results all the time. I finally started measuring once, set up a stop, then repeat. Much better than measure cut, measure cut, measure cut, rinse repeat.
wait, where did they go over measurement vs non-measurement?
thanks guys
I don't know if I can trust any of these tips as there was no tape ball toss between tips. How am I supposed to know when the next tip has begun?
Or use a triton router with micro adjustment
Thanks for these tips
Hey guys: Keep it up, Please
Hey @Chris Salomone, just curious what software you use to draw up your designs? Big fan of the channel, keep doing what you're doin!
Conversely with setting up precise plunge depth when it's not a small piece of hardware and something bulky, set up blocks.
Hadir dan menyimak kakak,salam sehat sukses selalu.and salam suport fullllll
terimakasih sharingnya
At about the 4:30 mark, I thought of the park in Talladegah Night when Ricky Bobby doesn’t know what to do with his hands.
that's a very nice router!
Thanks for the tips from Germany.....
Hey guys! Wonderful tips. Noticed you’ve been using the mirka deros a lot in recent videos. Would you recommend? I’m debating between that model and the Festool ETS-EC
Mirka all the way! The Festool is high quality, but the lower profile of the Mirka and its lighter weight tips the scales for me. The Mirka Abranet discs are super annoying though, because the slightest hint of a sharp edge and they tear. If you’re sanding plywood or MDF, then the Abranet discs are good, but if you’re sanding anything else, then I’d highly recommend their standard discs. The is of course my experience, others may say otherwise. I think the price of the Mirka is lower too. Win, win.
worst case escenario ??? jajaja chris that my escenario !!! looks very good !!!
Where so you buy the metal components for your projects?
Good info here, BUT I gotta know what’s up with the A’s hat? I love the Oakland A’s I’m a NorCal guy but the Athletics are my team. 🤙
what kind of table saw wrenches are you using?
I find the CA glue holds more true to color. Other glues darken the wood.
you could just put the piece of metal on the bench, put the router base plate on top (not under the bit) and push down until the bit hits the table
I always put tape on both sides of the cut. Even that way, if I get confused, I'm covered.
About the safety issues with CA-glue aka superglue and skin: it's mostly just annoying to peel it from your skin. It's not toxic or harmful unless you want to put it in your eyes. If you pour a whole bottle's worth on your skin and it's either a thick gel or you have clothes on (basically in both cases you have a thick layer of glue on your skin), then you get into the exothermic (producing heat) oh-my-god-my-skin-burns territory. That being said, I've actually managed to burst open a large bottle of CA-gel on my hand covering it completely, I managed to swipe most of it off in the 2 seconds it takes to start reacting with your skin (your skin is basically a catalyst that's very effective at setting the glue almost instantly) and it only felt quite hot, nothing near even a 1st degree burn.
Source: MD, also we use CA-glue to glue wounds together (it's only a slightly modified version that aims to prevent reacting too fast even if you pour on too much at once).
Thanks for that last detail, I was wondering recently about that.
Some good ideas here, but one thing is a bit confusing to me. How do you not know where did the dust from your sander come from? You have the little container there, and by the magic of emptying it before sanding those work joined pieces or pieces of scrap that came from them, you can control 100% where it came from. Speaking of this same tip if a gap is that bad you might also try a runny epoxy (obviously tape the downside and if needed the vertical slits), likely a casting one.
Hey Louis. I actually don't have that...My sander is hooked up to a dust extractor so it has months (even years at times) worth of saw dust in it. That said, even if you do have a sander like a DeWalt, etc...where it has the little dust bag. certain woods have a lot of variety in their grain/figuring, woods like walnut for example. So by making sure that the dust comes wood that is extremely near the joint. I've given myself the best changes for a good match.
@@Foureyes.Furniture Sure, but since these are tips, that is an option available to most people watching to jjst plan the fixing while they do the final sanding of those areas.
[tangent] Personally though, I tend to favor more artsy methods "embracing" my mistake. Like I might replace the whole corner altogether with contrasting wood, as if I had designed it like that from the start, or fill the void with some epoxy for greater stability, route a shallow groove over the joint and inlay something contrasting to make it seem like there is another piece of wood (or even a different material) to make it seem there is a small totally "intentional" sheet between the two real pieces instead of the botched joint. But then again, I am clinically mental.
Joint filling with wood glue - how long do you wait before sanding please ?
Check the bottle, but overnight is a good rule to follow.
I like using Titbond 3 with sawdust, especially for white oak since the glue dries brown. The gaps almost disappear.
Another tip that I recently discovered when sanding wood edge banding on plywood is to use a pencil to scribble across the plywood when sanding the edge banding flush. I don't like using a spiral router bit due to the bearing leaving marks on the plywood veneer. I just sand until the pencil scribble on the plywood disappears and then stop. I've sanded through too many thin veneers on plywood, which totally ruins a project! Use a white pencil on walnut.
I also invested in a Bosch GET75-6 sander which blows away typical $100 5" orbital sanders for speed of removal. $300 won't break the bank compared to a $700 Festool.
hahahaha funny guy... The best tip is the one that many youtubers use... Photoshopping their final work! Because in real life things are harder than they look...
Nice video, and thank goodness you've ditched that stupid blue tape ball gimmick - I will now subscribe.
That’s the exact method I use to fill small voids if I have no other options.
LOL he said pull out ha ha ha sorry y’all I’ve been doing this for 15 years it’s just funny
This is the video where I finally realized the shoes in the back aren't real shoes. Every time I saw them I was worried they would be gathering dust up there...
Dewalt have awful depth gauges, I take the depth gauge bar out and replace it with one from cheap router.
Chris said don't watch tips videos so I clicked away Sean. Gonna go watch some old Shaun Boyd Made This content. I used to love that guy. Wait, Sean and Shaun look alike......
pack th e gap with dust then use the CA much better results
Using a piece of paper plus the inlayed piece gives you that extra thousand of an inch that you probably need because no one is perfect if it’s too deep just stick the piece of paper behind the hardware.
When using the CA glue, you wanna do the process backward. Pile up the dust on the joint and drop fill with THIN glue…like #10 from StewMac. That will also keep the spread of the glue down on the surface of the part and will be WELL proud of the surrounding surface, meaning you can scrape it down and sand a bunch less.
This video made me laugh because at the beginning I imagined you were standing at the bench
For those who are accuracy maniacs thou shalt throw some masking tape down on the opposite side of the piece you're about to cross-cut so that you don't get that ugly 89.9999 degree angle... And yeah, thanks for the tips! We just need some more of exaggerated dramatisations of the usual ways to do the trick ))
That is true...but even we are not that crazy. That's some space shuttle accuracy :)
@@Foureyes.Furniture that's right, cuz I'm an aerospace engineer and with that being said I admire your approach to accuracy))
Accuracy maniacs to that level are usually called machinists.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that realised the need for the tape at the other side as well. But what about sagging in the middle? We gotta cover the whole bottom in tape, and make sure it doesn't overlap! (It's already April 1st here in Oz).
What did any of this have to do with the thumbnail image?
it is called "revolver stop"
What, there's nothing wrong with touching CA glue, it was originally invented to close bullet wounds, it's completely compatible with the body.
Good call...I'll try to remember this next time I get shot :)
Or you could select a router with a vernier adjustment on the depth, in addition to the normal depth gauge - like my Trend T7EK. Very useful indeed.
Are you deliberately setting audio volume so low to contrast with others? Nice set of videos but hard to follow your explanations
Sharpen your sharpie with a utility blade. No joke, even saying it on the name