FIXING TWO Commodore 64 machines that was in poor shape - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- I have two Commodore 64 machines in unknown condition. I thought they did not work. However one was working perfectly fine, but needed cleaning. The other one was faulty. PCBWay kindly sponsored this video www.pcbway.com/ great quality PCBs from just $5!
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Nice work so far. Good to see old hardware getting some love and care.
My favorite is repairing and restoring these also:)
Thanks 👍
What an fine start for the weekend, more c64 repairs. Keep these coming @arctic retro 🙂
Thank you soo much :)
I think a lot of these issues are caused by the crappy single wipe sockets that Commodore used. The single contact gets crusty and loses contact. When you flex the boards, the crust breaks away and remakes connections and the problem goes away. Or, you have cracked solder joints that behave similarly to the cheap sockets.
It is fixed now. It was a simple fault. See next episode
There are also tiny miniature replacement inductors which are like 10mm in size.
So nice how you approached the dust bunny family the Katamari style. Winding it up on a stick (screwdriver). :)
Glad you liked it!
That c64c has the coveted 6581R4-AR SID! Nice find. The 250466 board is also sought after because it has less component's to fail, like the 2 ram chips instead of 8. Its almost like a perfect mix of the original long board and the cost reduced short boards.
And it's now fixed :)
I love the 250466 boards.. I have 3 now all restored to very nice condition. One just worked with cleaning.. One bad power switch, and the other one bad ram chip.
When putting screws back in, whether it’s those on the keyboard or those holding the motherboard, always turn the screwdriver counter clockwise fkrst until you hear a click and then screw clockwise. The purpose of this is to avoid cutting a new trace in the plastic.
Yes, I usually do this if I feel they go wrongly in
I had a very similar issue with my C64 where it seemed to work just fine but locked up when trying to load from disk. It behaved the same as yours did, it got stuck at "Searching for $" and the disk didn't spin and wouldn't respond to any commands anymore. It turned out to be the chip right below CIA 1 chip marked U8 that was faulty. It is a 7406 Hex Inverter Buffer/Driver. I got one from a spare board and swapped it and now it works perfectly again. My board is also a 250466 revision. Hope this will help you with your troubleshooting. :)
It is fixed now. It was a simple fault but it took some time to find. Next episode
Regarding the rubber pads, I usually fix my remote controls by gluing a piece of aluminum foil on them so the resistance will be at its minimum if any.
you only need to find a good adhesive that sticks on both the pad and the foil.
I recently tried a Modified-Acrylic AB Adhesive and it worked fine (at least so far).
You can also try using a transparent flexible 2 parts epoxy, it worked for me too.
Thanks Tommy!
Thanks for the info!
@@Arcticretro 👍💯
I have tried every method therr is, but the one I ended up using is brushing the pads with steel wool. It seems to be just as effective and will last forever
@@christianlarsen1070 I might try that
I have tried rubbing them quite aggressively with actual 400 grit sandpaper. It worked perfectly. It looks like this rubber is conductive all the way through, so an abrasive fix is probably the best option. No need to fuss with glue or additional material.
You mentioned having to use your air compressor. I too have been using an air compressor but I have to power it up and wait for it to build pressure. Some really dusty items may take several cycles. Ive just converted to a great little air duster, XPOWER A-2 Airrow Pro, about $40 USD. It is corded but I believe they make a much more expensive cordless version.
I have one of the smaller cordless dusters claimed as replacements for canned air.......not impressed and about the same price!
So far its been great!!!
I have a small air compressor I use for my car / tires / bikes. It takes 2-3 minutes to fill. But also 2-3 minutes to drain
Awesome video! :)
One weird question though - where did you buy the strong vinegar from?
I bought it from Europris store in Norway
I bought a bread bin 64 last year as non working. It would power on but no red light and non responsive keyboard.
My suspicions were confirmed when I opened it up and found the cables to both had been disconnected. Reconnected and it "lives"!!!
Probably the seller got it from "somewhere", had no interest and just wanted what they could get out of it.
Someone had to have been inside as those cables just dont come off on their own.
That was strange
Looking forward to watching part 2! What is the vacuum that you used @16:02? I'm looking for something to clean out dust from fans, keyboards and small spaces.
Just a cheap one from AliExpress. Battery powered
@@Arcticretro Thanks. 🙂
Regarding the deferred recapping, has anyone already found equivalent solid caps for the electrolyte types, to do the job right for eternity?
Why would you recap a c64? I have repaired +100, and has never seen leakig caps
I just buy regular electrolyte caps from Digikey
@@Arcticretro With the rare use of these machines it's not ideal, the electrolyte degrades when unused.
Oooh, first commenter! Does remind me that I must fix my C=64 'bread bin'.
Me too. :-)..Mine has some intermittent errors so I suspect bad solder joint(s) or cracked traces or something like that as I can bend the board a bit and the error disappears (for a while)..
Yes you do
Good luck:) it's very rewarding when you do
Hope you figure it out:) it's very rewarding
@@donaldblakley6796 Thank you. I agree. But at least as frustrating when you don't ;)
Did you have a bad power supply when you previously tested those two? I see the PCB is dated 1984 which is good since it may have missed the self destructing MOS Technolgy custom ICs made in 1983 with a defective process which was too much boron in the passivation layer.
No I always use a modern PSU. Yes, no MOS logic chips as far as I remember.