The relay on the upper board is a "AC Interlock" which is meant to be wired through the vehicle's e-stop circuit. It prevents the machine from being operated while it is plugged in. The lower relay is for isolating the battery from the charge circuit, it is usually the first thing to fail on these. I am currently troubleshooting one that charges for a while but then begins to "hiccup". Removed the large capacitors on the upper board, they test OK but you can feel the innards are able to move around. Will post back when the replacements come in.
That's interesting because the scissor lift I bought had both E stops removed and bypassed (both are wired via a N/C connector) and the machine will operate while charged as it was demonstrated to me by the seller. I have new E stop buttons ready to go in but need to figure out some wiring anomalies first. Are the E stops wired through a N/O or N/C set of contacts ? I guess it doesn't matter really because it's a push button switch. If it stops power with the button depressed or not depressed would that be a problem ? I wouldn't thinks so right ? I have that exact same charger too by the way.
I have seen those "fully sleeved" silicone pads a lot on 12V -> 230V car inverters. They are supposed to give you better isolation since there is no way of an arc around the silpad. However I don't like them very much since I have seen a lot of failed devices using these things and flimsy sheetmetal clamps for mounting the device to a heatsink.
Just had a cable TV receiver through the work shop and the PSU had those sleeves as well. Maybe I am just starting to see equipment from that period being thrown out.
For what is this resistor 1k ohm at the output next to coil? Because my charger after start hit 30 v and say battery is fully charged. Can u help me ? Ps. This resistor is blow up but i don’t know why.
I have one is no DC 24 ouput, AC signal lamp is ON. after open and check. look like one smps Drive signal is not ok. please, Do you have any experence for share or suggest for me?
ok, now turn it into a bench top power supply ..... got the same thing in front of me and that's my plan, got do some planning first, I can't be burning the house down, wife would be mad .... lol
The relay on the upper board is a "AC Interlock" which is meant to be wired through the vehicle's e-stop circuit. It prevents the machine from being operated while it is plugged in. The lower relay is for isolating the battery from the charge circuit, it is usually the first thing to fail on these. I am currently troubleshooting one that charges for a while but then begins to "hiccup". Removed the large capacitors on the upper board, they test OK but you can feel the innards are able to move around. Will post back when the replacements come in.
Thank you for sharing the information
That's interesting because the scissor lift I bought had both E stops removed and bypassed (both are wired via a N/C connector) and the machine will operate while charged as it was demonstrated to me by the seller.
I have new E stop buttons ready to go in but need to figure out some wiring anomalies first. Are the E stops wired through a N/O or N/C set of contacts ? I guess it doesn't matter really because it's a push button switch. If it stops power with the button depressed or not depressed would that be a problem ? I wouldn't thinks so right ?
I have that exact same charger too by the way.
I have a question that If a machine doesn't have E stop. Then these interlock wires can be left blanks?
@@gamersonlyplayinggames244 Correct, just be careful not to charge the machine while driving it.
love this kind of videos
I have seen a teardown of one of these before.. it was to charge a scissor lift.. the problem with that one was relay on the primary..
I have a supply of these that I'm told are bad, has anyone done a diagnostic/repair on these?
I have seen those "fully sleeved" silicone pads a lot on 12V -> 230V car inverters. They are supposed to give you better isolation since there is no way of an arc around the silpad. However I don't like them very much since I have seen a lot of failed devices using these things and flimsy sheetmetal clamps for mounting the device to a heatsink.
Just had a cable TV receiver through the work shop and the PSU had those sleeves as well. Maybe I am just starting to see equipment from that period being thrown out.
Cool vid buddy cheers from Australia
Thank you for following, Frank :)
Hey Frank, I'm in Sydney Australia. I just found this video by chance because I have the same charger in my scissor lift. Hope all is well with you.
For what is this resistor 1k ohm at the output next to coil? Because my charger after start hit 30 v and say battery is fully charged. Can u help me ? Ps. This resistor is blow up but i don’t know why.
I have one is no DC 24 ouput, AC signal lamp is ON.
after open and check.
look like one smps Drive signal is not ok.
please, Do you have any experence for share or suggest for me?
You have a schematics for this charger?
i'm also in need of one
If the ac power lamp is not light on
how to check step by step
Fuse are okay, pls
Check bridge rectifier and MOSFET. Use oscilloscope to check driver IC output.
thanks sir,
I'll check it again. .....
ok, now turn it into a bench top power supply ..... got the same thing in front of me and that's my plan, got do some planning first, I can't be burning the house down, wife would be mad .... lol