Better to run this 2×4 perpendicular to 2 or even three ceiling frame boards and connect that way rather than parallel to one board. Much stronger and stable that way.
Yes , spreading the load across more framing members would be better . Maybe even use a longer and wider 2 by . Would allow more attachment points . But over all it’s a clever use of treaded black pipe . I’m an electrician and have made several chandeliers out of black gas pipe for a client . They wanted an “industrial look “
hey Joe if I want my bar to be 20 inches from the ceiling, what size of the materials should I get? I am not sure the inches length start from end of the thread or the beginning and how long is the tee fitting length to calculate once it is assemble?
@@brianw.4002 Hey Brian - as assembled the main bar is 16" below the ceiling, and in my garage the bar is 86" off the ground (7'2"). I'm not good with construction - but was proud of my job on this. Don't know how to modify. The hardest part to find is the Tee firing for 3/4-1/2-1/2 - it's an odd size and you need 4.
@@Joeestus12 Thanks for the extra information! Your homemade pull up bar is the best one among all other videos. May I know why you opt for 1/2 for some parts and 3/4 for other parts? Is it for grip preference? Thanks
It should. Just make sure the bolts are long enough to go through the wood into the ceiling joists. People hang heavy bags in their garage like this all the time.
@@shivamverma9461 So did you make the pipes yourself? 😆😆😆 Dude 2 years ago when I asked this question, my local home depot was selling these pipes unthreaded. That was the reason for my question but I'm good now.
A quick question: How's the horizontal strength? I can see it all being good going straight up and down, but if I get some yahoo that decides to swing back and forth or kip really hard, is it going to pry it out of the hanging pieces? I love the design. Thank you.
David Driscoll horizontal strength is pretty good. However, if you seeing on it, it will rock slightly. If there is concern about horizontal strength you could probably use some perpendicular 2x4s.
I just need the lat bar piping, with the forward grips, without the upper extensions. Could you provide me with the supplies for that? Or any chance you can add it to your info?
Hi i have a noob question, what's the reason for the wood in between the flange and the ceiling? I have a concrete ceiling, would it be ok to mount the flange+poles directly to my ceiling?
I think it to reduce the amount of drilling you need on your ceiling, so you end up drilling only 4 holes for the wood plank also to reduce the stress on the ceiling wall
xav_B Hello. I installed the 2x4 so that I had more flexibility on width dimensions for the floor flange pieces. Good luck with your project! My daughter and I use our bar every other day and have seen great progress!
I know this is from ages ago, but I ran into a problem. What do you do if the elbow doesn't "stop" at a right angle? IOW, when I tighten it all the way down into the flange, it's not pointing int the right direction. I could rotate the flange, but that leaves two of the holes at the very edges of the 2x4, (the other two right down the center) and that seems like there'd be no structure integrity. I'd bet the carriage bolt would tear right through the side -- that's how close to the edge the holes are. The other option is to leave the the elbow a bit loose -- about a 1/4 turn. But that doesn't seem very safe, either. I'm stuck!
I have the same question about maintaining the angles. I guess I could pull out the blow torch and solder them in place. Any excuse to break out the blow torch is a good one !
@@teweview Here's how I solved it... Turns out it will turn a lot more than I originally thought. For the BAR, I just needed a pipe wrench to get more leverage over it. For the ELBOW, I first attached the flanges to the 2x4s, hand tightened as much as possible, then used the 2x4 as leverage to get another couple of turns and get to the right angle.
Few videos lay out the details this clearly. I love how you displayed all the parts needed with the measurements.
Better to run this 2×4 perpendicular to 2 or even three ceiling frame boards and connect that way rather than parallel to one board. Much stronger and stable that way.
W what are ceiling frame boards? Do you mean joists? Thanks
@@JG-no4qr like I said...
Yes , spreading the load across more framing members would be better . Maybe even use a longer and wider 2 by . Would allow more attachment points .
But over all it’s a clever use of treaded black pipe .
I’m an electrician and have made several chandeliers out of black gas pipe for a client . They wanted an “industrial look “
@@JG-no4qr Yes, he means joists. He just doesn’t know what a joist is, so he made up his own definition.
@alan30189 being a civil engineer, I know plenty about joists
I’ll install this in my room for morning and winter session 👍⭐️
Here's the list of parts - thanks Dan!
Base:
1 - board - 2" x 4" x 3'
4 - big ass wood screws for board - 3/8" x 5"
2 - 3/4" floor flanges (circles)
8 - 1/4" x 3" flange screws, and nuts (regular screws, not wood screws)
16 - washers for screws
Bars (threaded both ends):
2 - 3/4"x10" pipes
2 - 1/2"x6" pipes
2 - 1/2" x 1/2" pipes
1 - 1/2 x 18" pipe
4 - 3/4" x 6" pipe
Fittings:
4- Galvanized Tee fitting - pipe connectors 1/2"x1/2"x3/4".
2 - 3/4" elbow connectors
Additional Options:
2 - bike grips
1 - tennis racquet tape
hey Joe if I want my bar to be 20 inches from the ceiling, what size of the materials should I get? I am not sure the inches length start from end of the thread or the beginning and how long is the tee fitting length to calculate once it is assemble?
Forgot 4 big ass washers (3/8") for the big ass wood screws. Just got this up and it is rocking - thanks Dan for the detailed instructions.
Was able to get this all at Home Depot - about $100.
@@brianw.4002 Hey Brian - as assembled the main bar is 16" below the ceiling, and in my garage the bar is 86" off the ground (7'2"). I'm not good with construction - but was proud of my job on this. Don't know how to modify. The hardest part to find is the Tee firing for 3/4-1/2-1/2 - it's an odd size and you need 4.
@@Joeestus12 Thanks for the extra information! Your homemade pull up bar is the best one among all other videos. May I know why you opt for 1/2 for some parts and 3/4 for other parts? Is it for grip preference? Thanks
Great DIY pull up bar! I will do it👍👏👏
How’d it go?
Very well done ! Congrats !
Great instructions, helped me put up my pull up bar today
Great video
Great video thanx 4 sharing 👍
How many basketballs are too many?!?
Looks like a good build, but all that planning and not a pipe wrench in sight? How is it holding up?
Dan
Can give me list of all piping and bolts and bits. Thanks
Really appreciate this vid, could I ask you to provide parts list?
How many rolls of grip tape did you end up using?
Did you try out for ninja warrior yet? Thanks, great video
Nice. I like it. Do you have a parts list?
IT IS IN THERE YET?
sir, your ceiling is concrete slab or plaster ceiling?
Can yjj oh u share what material needed ? You can’t see from just watching the video
Hi, do you think this would support 220 lbs male?
It should. Just make sure the bolts are long enough to go through the wood into the ceiling joists. People hang heavy bags in their garage like this all the time.
why is the middle bar and the T-handles 1/2" pipe??? seems really small. also, why upsize to 3/4" is it about ease of grip for the different positions
Close your eyes and just imagine Tom Cruise talking!
What was the thickness of the pipes used? Also, did home Depot cut and thread these pipes for you?
It's 1/2 inch pipe and yes sometimes your local home Depot will cut and thread them .
This is a diy bro 😂😂
@@shivamverma9461 So did you make the pipes yourself? 😆😆😆 Dude 2 years ago when I asked this question, my local home depot was selling these pipes unthreaded. That was the reason for my question but I'm good now.
donald ferdinand 🤣
@@jonathanjr1894 isnt half an inch very thin? I mean my hands are not that big but it looks like 1 inch is thin enough.
A quick question: How's the horizontal strength? I can see it all being good going straight up and down, but if I get some yahoo that decides to swing back and forth or kip really hard, is it going to pry it out of the hanging pieces? I love the design. Thank you.
David Driscoll horizontal strength is pretty good. However, if you seeing on it, it will rock slightly. If there is concern about horizontal strength you could probably use some perpendicular 2x4s.
What's the pipe size
Bravo
How do u know where the stud is???
Looks like he was going by the drywall joint tape line.
Anyone- when you screw into the ceiling, how wide are those ceiling studs? 2 inches or 4 inches? Thx
Usually 2 inch wide
I have double studs and they're about 4 inch
Surely 1/2" pipe is far too small?! I Probably wouldn't even use 3/4". Personally I'd use 1". Better grip diameter and much stronger.
did you make it?
In the voice of the sponge bob guy one year later “no”
Wrong cause the door way pull up bar is made of 1/2 pipe and it’s a thinner wall thickness
How suitable is the bar for a 200 lbs, 5’ 11 person?
I think you can get the pipes at over 1" thickness. That should do. But maybe change the design so that it consists of 3 pipes bolted to the ceiling
I just need the lat bar piping, with the forward grips, without the upper extensions. Could you provide me with the supplies for that? Or any chance you can add it to your info?
What was the total cost?
Robert Rivera I estimated mine at around $65-$85. I also used larger and longer wood, stained it, and larger diameter pipe.
Rubber dip it
The two vertical black bars are way too long. Better no swing or it will break.
Hi i have a noob question, what's the reason for the wood in between the flange and the ceiling? I have a concrete ceiling, would it be ok to mount the flange+poles directly to my ceiling?
I think it to reduce the amount of drilling you need on your ceiling, so you end up drilling only 4 holes for the wood plank
also to reduce the stress on the ceiling wall
xav_B Hello. I installed the 2x4 so that I had more flexibility on width dimensions for the floor flange pieces. Good luck with your project! My daughter and I use our bar every other day and have seen great progress!
Don't the bars out the side move too much
I know this is from ages ago, but I ran into a problem.
What do you do if the elbow doesn't "stop" at a right angle? IOW, when I tighten it all the way down into the flange, it's not pointing int the right direction.
I could rotate the flange, but that leaves two of the holes at the very edges of the 2x4, (the other two right down the center) and that seems like there'd be no structure integrity. I'd bet the carriage bolt would tear right through the side -- that's how close to the edge the holes are.
The other option is to leave the the elbow a bit loose -- about a 1/4 turn. But that doesn't seem very safe, either. I'm stuck!
I have the same question about maintaining the angles. I guess I could pull out the blow torch and solder them in place. Any excuse to break out the blow torch is a good one !
@@teweview Here's how I solved it...
Turns out it will turn a lot more than I originally thought.
For the BAR, I just needed a pipe wrench to get more leverage over it.
For the ELBOW, I first attached the flanges to the 2x4s, hand tightened as much as possible, then used the 2x4 as leverage to get another couple of turns and get to the right angle.
How much was all material?
supersport408 Unfortunately, I did not keep my receipt. However, I believe it was about $50-$75 at Home Depot. Good luck on your project!
$75-$80. I just went out and bought all the material. Everything is already pre cut ready to go at home depot or Lowe’s.
How about speaking a lot louder