Great idea! I have a whole shop full of various dial indicators, accurate down to 2 ten thousandths of an inch for machining and engine rebuilding I never thought about using those. The only issue now, I'll never be satisfied with the bed level lol
This is the ONLY method that MEASURES bed level and can indicate warped beds. Outstanding idea to make the holder. BTW those with steel tables can use a mag base next to the printer and a long indicator holding rod then move the bed.
I did it slightly differently: I used a feeler to set one corner, then cranked in +40mm or so on z, mounted the dial indicator, lowered it to engage the feeler, zeroed the dial, then scooted it around to zero the other corners, come back to the first one to make sure it is still 0, then auto-homed to reset it. I discovered that a Diet Coke can made a pretty good feeler - I tested a bunch at home and they all seemed to be a very repeatable 4 mils. One little thing to pass on to newcomers - make sure there isn't a little blob of plastic on the nozzle before you use the feeler. I like using a dial indicator.
I use a feeler gauge or paper to set the front left corner directly over the leveling knob and then attach my dial indicator and set the other three corners the same , then back around to make sure . Great level everytime
I quit printing on mine over a year after being so frustrated that my prints would come out sometimes and sometimes not. I’m going to start again. I just watched a video on some bed leveling board that is V1.2 or V2.0 but don’t know which one I need but this seems good. I guess that depends on how much that gauge is
Love this video, using it as my reference. Might I suggest putting a link to the mounting bracket design in the description? I had to go hunting in the comments for it. A link to the harbor freight product might also be a helpful thing for those of us who are new to the concept of a dial indicator. Ps: got the bracket printing and indicator purchased, so I am good for now. I’m hoping it might help the next chump though.
if only I knew the feeler gauge size I could subscribe. But when comments don't get a reply from the uploader I have to assume the channel is not maintained anymore. Shame, really great video let down by one small but important piece of information not given.LLAP
It was a 5 thou feeler gauge. The exact feeler gauge thickness doesn't really matter because it needs to be appropriate for your printer. You might need more or less to get good adhesion. I've since switched back to the regular paper method. You're not wrong about the channel not being maintained, I just have nothing meaningful to post and I have no intention on trying to be a content creator.
@@ElectricalInsanity Thank you Sir for your very welcome and honest reply. I am sure that will put many minds at rest. This method with the dial indicator is unique and ideal for a geek like me. Along with many other like minded people thank you for all your hard work. Subbing is not hard and I am glad to add mine if it helps you with ad revenue or whatever value it has. I wish you are yours well in these terrible times.
So the indicator bracket is a friction fit on the fan? I’m not using the same printer so could you share rage dimensions of the fan and the inside dimensions for the mount so I can get an idea of the amount of the friction fit. Rather than having to print some pieces and find out that they are either too tight or too loose, thanks, yup I’m lazy, LOL just don’t need to reinvent the wheel. Thanks
I'd do that thing with the spacer exactly on top of the screw. That way when leveling it, it pivots around that point, so that point doesn't move up or down anymore.
hi i have ender 3 and i buy it used when i put dial and try your technik my dial from edge toedge goes .01+ .01- its so hard to level the bed no matter how hard i try do you think that that bed is bad and do i need to buy new one i also useing glass bed but i just cent to dial that bed its all over the place pls help tnx
What is the "best" spring pressure? You can change the adjustment wheels so the springs are not or hardly compressed at all, or you can compress them fully where you cannot turn the adjustment wheels any further. I could try to do a bed leveling at almost uncompressed springs or fully compressed springs. What consequence has spring compression on things like bed flatness (if any?). What is the optimal spring pressure and why?
In between both extremes sounds like the best. You want it under tension so it is tighter and less likely to move but you don't want to do it all the way to smash the springs or give you no where to go down. I would switch to silicon ends instead of springs. They move less
This is actually the best way to level the bed. Have broke my back times using paper leveling method till I use a LVDT displacement sensor mounted permanently . Shows a digital display all the time with a micro accuracy. Great Video. By the way what was the thickness of that feeler gauge ?
With the steppers disabled my z falls like a rock. Z nut and screw is nice and smooth. Also I don't have any only home Z cammand so I have to move my bed in 10mm increments with the dial and screen. As far as the dial indicator I have a magnetic base I printed but I think I'm going to print Sunshine (UA-cam guy) mount and his printed dial indicator.
Yes, I do it with a hot nozzle. I haven't had any problems. It only takes a few minutes to level everything so I'm not concerned about the amount of heat creep.
There is a much easier way of doing this with a gcode file and a different mount that sets the dial a little higher.. You keep the dial on the machine as you level each corner.. takes about 60 seconds to do. if you're interested, let me know and I can send you some info.
It just feels better to me. The tooth of the paper helps me know how much contact I have between the nozzle and the bed. Nothing wrong with the feeler gauge.
ElectricalInsanity Thank you for getting back to me so quickly! Then you still use the dial indicator but just substituted the feeler gauge for the paper, correct?
@@jcsonic7410 exactly! The dial indicator is used way more than the paper since I usually only need to make things a few thou looser or tighter, or verify the bed is still level. I only need to use the paper when things get completely out of tolerance and I need to reset to a known good point.
I've updated the description with all of the tools I used for this video. Here's the dial indicator specifically: www.harborfreight.com/1-In-Travel-Machinists-Dial-Indicator-63521.html
This method creates a lot of unnecessary inaccurate work that just needs to be manually dialed in after leveling the bed to a position, but as demonstrated this position is fixes and is not where it needs to be. And depending on what layer height you plan on printing at you would need to gauge everything different because layer height effects the distance that the bed is leveled from the print nozzle. All that is needed to level a print bed is a set of feeler gauges. Get at eye level of the print bed and tighten down the adjustment knobs a bit and lower the z axis until the switch clicks, then loosen the knobs until the nozzle comes into contact with the bed, then depending on what layer height you are going to be printing select a feeler gauge that is about half the size and tighten the knob at the position you are leveling and the position behind it equally until you can slip the gauge under the nozzle then gently turn the knob back until the nozzle contacts the feeler gauge, repeat for all postions, and never push down on your bed as your leveling, the springs will lose tention on the knobs and slip slightly throwing off any leveling that had been done.
take the feeler leaf your using out of the set, put a slight bend in it because stuffing it under there on an angle like you were dont give exact reading
The most precise bed leveling I've ever seen !
Great idea! I have a whole shop full of various dial indicators, accurate down to 2 ten thousandths of an inch for machining and engine rebuilding
I never thought about using those.
The only issue now, I'll never be satisfied with the bed level lol
This is the ONLY method that MEASURES bed level and can indicate warped beds. Outstanding idea to make the holder. BTW those with steel tables can use a mag base next to the printer and a long indicator holding rod then move the bed.
I did it slightly differently: I used a feeler to set one corner, then cranked in +40mm or so on z, mounted the dial indicator, lowered it to engage the feeler, zeroed the dial, then scooted it around to zero the other corners, come back to the first one to make sure it is still 0, then auto-homed to reset it.
I discovered that a Diet Coke can made a pretty good feeler - I tested a bunch at home and they all seemed to be a very repeatable 4 mils.
One little thing to pass on to newcomers - make sure there isn't a little blob of plastic on the nozzle before you use the feeler.
I like using a dial indicator.
Thanks to your guide I was able to finally dial (haha) in the perfect first layer on my stubborn PETG filament! Great video!
I use a feeler gauge or paper to set the front left corner directly over the leveling knob and then attach my dial indicator and set the other three corners the same , then back around to make sure . Great level everytime
This is a very good idea. It's like an analog BLTouch lol
This was brilliant!
It might also be a good idea to use a feeler gauge to initially set the zero
wondered when i would find someone doing this, first thing i did when i got my first ender printer was bust out the dial indicator.
I quit printing on mine over a year after being so frustrated that my prints would come out sometimes and sometimes not. I’m going to start again. I just watched a video on some bed leveling board that is V1.2 or V2.0 but don’t know which one I need but this seems good. I guess that depends on how much that gauge is
Can you use a Dial Test Indicator to level and adjust the 3D printer rather than using plunger type indicator?
Probably, but you would need a different mount for it.
Love this video, using it as my reference. Might I suggest putting a link to the mounting bracket design in the description? I had to go hunting in the comments for it. A link to the harbor freight product might also be a helpful thing for those of us who are new to the concept of a dial indicator.
Ps: got the bracket printing and indicator purchased, so I am good for now. I’m hoping it might help the next chump though.
Thanks! I have updated the description with all the tools I used for this video!
It's a magnetic back indicator
if only I knew the feeler gauge size I could subscribe. But when comments don't get a reply from the uploader I have to assume the channel is not maintained anymore. Shame, really great video let down by one small but important piece of information not given.LLAP
It was a 5 thou feeler gauge. The exact feeler gauge thickness doesn't really matter because it needs to be appropriate for your printer. You might need more or less to get good adhesion. I've since switched back to the regular paper method. You're not wrong about the channel not being maintained, I just have nothing meaningful to post and I have no intention on trying to be a content creator.
@@ElectricalInsanity Thank you Sir for your very welcome and honest reply. I am sure that will put many minds at rest. This method with the dial indicator is unique and ideal for a geek like me. Along with many other like minded people thank you for all your hard work. Subbing is not hard and I am glad to add mine if it helps you with ad revenue or whatever value it has. I wish you are yours well in these terrible times.
Moving this with your hand might change the z position.
Man this is fantastic. Thanks for the video!
Maybe im confused by your description, but after this video you went back to using the paper method instead of a feeler gauge?
Very smart idea, thanks for sharing
Seriously genius. I love this :D
So the indicator bracket is a friction fit on the fan?
I’m not using the same printer so could you share rage dimensions of the fan and the inside dimensions for the mount so I can get an idea of the amount of the friction fit. Rather than having to print some pieces and find out that they are either too tight or too loose, thanks, yup I’m lazy, LOL just don’t need to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks
I'd do that thing with the spacer exactly on top of the screw. That way when leveling it, it pivots around that point, so that point doesn't move up or down anymore.
hi i have ender 3 and i buy it used when i put dial and try your technik my dial from edge toedge goes .01+ .01- its so hard to level the bed no matter how hard i try do you think that that bed is bad and do i need to buy new one i also useing glass bed but i just cent to dial that bed its all over the place pls help tnx
What is the "best" spring pressure? You can change the adjustment wheels so the springs are not or hardly compressed at all, or you can compress them fully where you cannot turn the adjustment wheels any further. I could try to do a bed leveling at almost uncompressed springs or fully compressed springs. What consequence has spring compression on things like bed flatness (if any?). What is the optimal spring pressure and why?
In between both extremes sounds like the best. You want it under tension so it is tighter and less likely to move but you don't want to do it all the way to smash the springs or give you no where to go down. I would switch to silicon ends instead of springs. They move less
This is actually the best way to level the bed. Have broke my back times using paper leveling method till I use a LVDT displacement sensor mounted permanently . Shows a digital display all the time with a micro accuracy.
Great Video. By the way what was the thickness of that feeler gauge ?
Thanks! I've added the thickness of the feeler gauge to the video description.
With the steppers disabled my z falls like a rock. Z nut and screw is nice and smooth. Also I don't have any only home Z cammand so I have to move my bed in 10mm increments with the dial and screen. As far as the dial indicator I have a magnetic base I printed but I think I'm going to print Sunshine (UA-cam guy) mount and his printed dial indicator.
Do you have a link to the dial indicator you use? I'm not familiar with them and on amazon there's different versions with different values.
Does it matter the height of the dial? You just go up a bit. So as long as it has pressure to read it is good?
What size feeler gauge do you use for this?
When you use the metal feeler gauge...what is the optimal distance/thickness you use?
.2mm
I got good idea too once its all leveled put a lock nut under those wheels too stop from losing the level of heat plate
How do you attach the dial indicator to the printer?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3259876
@@ElectricalInsanity What size magnets do you need to mate with the indicator holder?
@@bitsurfer0101 no magnets, it replaces the original back plate and you reuse the screws
Time to get a dial indicator...
good vid
Do you do this with a hot Nozzle? Because your holder covers the hole fan. No Problems by that?
Yes, I do it with a hot nozzle. I haven't had any problems. It only takes a few minutes to level everything so I'm not concerned about the amount of heat creep.
@@ElectricalInsanity ok. great. thanks a lot
What feeler gauge thickness did you use? it wasn't apparent in the video. 0.1mm maybe? Otherwise, a very clear video. Thanks!
Crucial piece of missing information to make this video useful
@@mattbeller4384 it's not even relevant to leveling your bed.
There is a much easier way of doing this with a gcode file and a different mount that sets the dial a little higher.. You keep the dial on the machine as you level each corner.. takes about 60 seconds to do. if you're interested, let me know and I can send you some info.
Let me know please?
Could you share that with me? Thanks
can I get that information please?
Just curious, why did you switch back to the paper method? Thanks.
It just feels better to me. The tooth of the paper helps me know how much contact I have between the nozzle and the bed. Nothing wrong with the feeler gauge.
ElectricalInsanity Thank you for getting back to me so quickly! Then you still use the dial indicator but just substituted the feeler gauge for the paper, correct?
@@jcsonic7410 exactly! The dial indicator is used way more than the paper since I usually only need to make things a few thou looser or tighter, or verify the bed is still level. I only need to use the paper when things get completely out of tolerance and I need to reset to a known good point.
ElectricalInsanity Awesome, thanks!
where to get the clip from?
Genius!
i need this on my ender 3 v2
Which dial indicator?
I've updated the description with all of the tools I used for this video. Here's the dial indicator specifically: www.harborfreight.com/1-In-Travel-Machinists-Dial-Indicator-63521.html
Z axis
This method creates a lot of unnecessary inaccurate work that just needs to be manually dialed in after leveling the bed to a position, but as demonstrated this position is fixes and is not where it needs to be. And depending on what layer height you plan on printing at you would need to gauge everything different because layer height effects the distance that the bed is leveled from the print nozzle.
All that is needed to level a print bed is a set of feeler gauges. Get at eye level of the print bed and tighten down the adjustment knobs a bit and lower the z axis until the switch clicks, then loosen the knobs until the nozzle comes into contact with the bed, then depending on what layer height you are going to be printing select a feeler gauge that is about half the size and tighten the knob at the position you are leveling and the position behind it equally until you can slip the gauge under the nozzle then gently turn the knob back until the nozzle contacts the feeler gauge, repeat for all postions, and never push down on your bed as your leveling, the springs will lose tention on the knobs and slip slightly throwing off any leveling that had been done.
You mic sucks, we can't hear you.
take the feeler leaf your using out of the set, put a slight bend in it because stuffing it under there on an angle like you were dont give exact reading
what feeler gauge size did you use?