Interesting car and video. Back in the 1980s I had some customers that raced their MGBs at Sears Point in Marin County California. Sometimes I would pit for them. Some were very fancy, whatever-the-cost, cars and some were raced on a shoestring. You may know all this already but for others that may be interested... The hood on that car is from an MGC (the 6 cylinder MG) and was made from aluminum originally. The Armstrong lever-arm shock absorbers are very sturdy and some were available with externally adjustable valves. Simply turn the knob to a the desired setting. The cylinder head looks like an earlier model (pre-air injection) head. The Cannon intake manifold was a common aftermarket intake for MGBs with the Weber DCOE carbs. Cannon made both a "long runner" and "short runner" version of the intake for the MGB 1800 engines. You have the "long runner" version. Redline Weber in the USA is the major outlet for everything Weber in the USA. They also sell the Cannon manifolds. Pierce Manifolds in the USA also sells the Cannon manifolds. The "puke can" looks like it takes cooling system overflow AND crankcase breather overflow. There is either some interesting plumbing inside that plastic container or a real mess! Robert Bentley Publications has a factory manual for the MGB with a detailed and complete section on the special tuning for how the works cars were set up for competition. It is at the back of the manual. The rear brake drums look stock. In the 20 years I worked on MGAs, MGBs, and MGCs (and Sprites and Midgets) the only time I ever had to replace front brake rotors was when they had run the pads all the way down to bare metal. Otherwise the brake rotors hold up very very well. Check the front engine mounts also.
I once owned a 1970 Triumph GT 6 + it was White with red and black houndstooth interior. After opening it for 2 years a mechanic offered me twice what I paid for it. When I asked him why? He said it was one of 500 made for the race team. Those that were left over were exported to the USA. It ended up in an accident and totaled. Great ,fun car.
Cool car, Steve. The comment on the Spanish Webers was funny 😄. I believe Italian made carburetors are almost impossible to find. I know Dellorto doesn’t make them anymore, not sure if Weber does.
Very true!, they are hard to find but worth the money... I noted that Andrew B had some good experiences with the Spanish build Webers.. I did only had bad experiences.
Hi, I used to work as a technician prepping and supporting various types of single seat, open wheel cars. I now own a small company building maintaining and restoring classic motorcycles. Sadly here in the UK racing is incredibly expensive. I have a Norton Domiracer Lowboy replica but I'm afraid I'm feeling like I'd bounce as well as I did in my younger days. Good luck with your new car. As an aside, it's okay to remove the auto advance on an engine that is going to be used only within a limited rev range, usually high rpm as the retarded range is to produce more torque at lower rpm during normal driving. A close ratio gearbox will come into it's own in this state of tune along with a well designed cam. One word of advice I would give is to learn to read Dyno reports. Maximum power is of course important but, in my experience drivability is a very important factor ie good power needs to be produced throughout the proposed usable rpm range. Finally, do you know how to make a small fortune from motor racing.... Start with a large fortune 😁
Bravo, you inspect a car as I do. I will add check for missing cotter pins, seems it a favorite trick to leave off cotter pins on castle nuts. Found a nail used on my TR3, and missing cotter pins on my MGA when I was doing my inspections. +1 on a aluminum fly wheel, I have one on my TR6. I do not race these cars, well the TR6 is a autocross car. My son races a Miata and the same rules apply. I as you do my own work, only way you can afford this this much fun.
I'm totally agree with you regarding the Spanish Weber carbs. Don't ask how I found! A video about how to remove ignition advance and modify ignition curve for Weber will help me alot. I'm stuck for an year in this issue. Beautiful video and precious info as usual! 🤘
Interesting comment regarding Weber carbs made in Spain - yes the early ones with the 3 progression holes had tuning issues but I understood the newer 4 hole DCOE carbs were as good as the Italian made ones?
Thanks for the comments, I had several new Spanish build DGAS and DCOE's and al were very poor in build... Maybe that changed meanwhile . I do know that some of the so quoted " made in Spain" are in essence build in China...
Well done. I really have enjoyed your videos as they have helped me sort out my own MG. I do find it interesting that specific mechanical updates and repairs were absent from all the other exacting documentation that you received with this race car, yet nothing is more conclusive than finding out what is what on your own.
It was nearly 17 yrs ago. From watching your other videos you know what your doing. The only thing I wasn’t sure about was your axle ratio measurement. 2:1 seems very tall, the car will have no acceleration.
Hi Steve the word you are looking for in describing the cars race history is Provenance which your car has in spades .It looks like a beautiful car ,I personally think a.race car always looks better with a few battle scar's , but of course that is personal choice .Great content as usual Steve , really looking forward to your exploits in it.PS ,great English Oxford dictionary description of the welding Steve ,Ha Ha .
Optimal intake manifold`s runners length is a much more complex thing you gave to understand. There are different harmonic pulses to which the length can be dimensioned. I have seen similar racing engines (4 cylinders and 1 DCOE) equipped with really long intake manifolds.
Another fun project Steve. I like the race car themes both this and the single seater. I would think the big red dash light is low oil pressure warning light. I have fitted one to my TR3a that I sprint and hill climb. Keep up with the videos 👍
Thanks for the comments, and indeed ... i did check it afterwards and it is a warning light for the oil pressure. Soon this week more on the mono-coq race car as I received some parts
If you want to race under FIA appendix K rules get the homologation papers for the car you want to buy and have a look if all the modifications of the car are are in the homologation or permitted by the rules. I think you can have some problems to get a HTP for your car. I think the Sebring kit was only homologated for the MGC, and they had no rear spoiler. Aluminium cooler only allowed if "period correct". Also electronic ignition (123 ignition) is not permitted. Historic racing can be a lot of fun to reasonable costs, but only if you don't want to compete on the top end.
You are right, like the 123 ignition is not an option... The point here is that the Annex K does apply , but there is a certain deviation allowed in the Triumph- competition GT class. It has been racing for several years, in state it is with the approvals.... It is understood that it might not be allowed for other classes... I will contact an inspector as the material and regulations are rather complex
The targeted class is : The Triumph Competition & British HTGT is a racing series of the TR-Register Deutschland e.V. for British roadsters, GTs and touring cars built up to 1981! The Serial Regulations of Triumph Competition & British HTGT is approved and registered by Autosport Switzerland (hereinafter called ASA) under REG-NO TC-202103. British GTs's and Touring Cars are approved if they meet the sporting and technical regulations. The year of build of GT vehicles must be before 01/01/1981. The year of build of Touring Cars must be before 1.1.1966 and the car need to comply with Appendix K regulations. Here are just a few point of the regulation: Engine block and cylinder head of the basic model must be maintained. Cylinder head gasket and compression ratio are free. Milling of the cylinder head is allowed. Reshaping of the channels by removal of material is permitted. The bore of an engine is free within the limits of its displacement class. Vehicles through the use of repair parts exceed the capacity limit slightly will be counted in the original class. An increase in displacement over the repair measure the standard bore of 1,5 mm or 0.060 "for such vehicles is also prohibited. The homologated stroke may not be changed. Valve train and valve size are free as long as the original system is preserved. The rocker ratio is optional, roller rocker arms are permitted. Connecting rods, pistons, crankshaft and bearings are free. Feel free to look the complete regulation here www.triumph-competition.de/images/documents/2021/2021-FIA-TC-Reglement-en.pdf
@@D3Sshooter Complex is the right word. I know guys that lost interest in historic racing because of the complex FIA rules. To find the right paragraph in the relevant appendix (K, current J for safety, J of periode) can get you bad headache. Here is the link to the homologation paper (No 3017) of your car - MGB GT: (Sorry, had to delete the link. Otherwise post wouldn't be visible. google fia homologation papers.) The car was homologated in Group 3 which is close to series production like later Group N. But you can also prepare the car to Group 4 rules which allow more extensive modifications. Than you have to compete in Group 4 of course. The advantage of building a car within the rules to get a FIA-HTP is you to have a large selection of events to compete. If your car was built for the The Triumph Competition & British HTGT Series and you only want to compete there, I think you will not get much problems. In any case I wish you all the best and a lot of fun!
Awesome video Steve - have fitted a 123 and Weber plus other mods to mine this year, but would love to learn some tips on setting up both from you when you get to that stage with this machine - 150BHP is pretty impressive for the B series!
Lots of interesting information. I would have thought that moving the fuel tank inside the car would raise the centre of gravity. Fuel can be quite heavy, but maybe race cars don't need as large a tank as a street car?
Alweer een mooi project, je hebt misschien ook al naar het UA-cam kanaal gekeken van David Russel wilks, hij heeft ook een mooie race prepped MGB roadster hardtop. Bij hem zijn de Armstrong shocks instelbaar...blijkbaar moeilijk te vinden. Veel succes !
i love this kind of video on older race car. Though i am not sure on your car but, usually a big red light is the low oil pressure light or aka the "dummy light". Nice car mate
Great new project. Already looking forward to some new videos here. You emphasis on checking this and that for past crashes. How important is it to have a crash-free race car? Even if you buy a car for personal use on the street I still prefer a crash free car. Though honestly... if you get something that is decent fixed and you have financial reductionwhy not go for such a car?
Thanks for the comments, there is nothing wrong if things are repaired as they should. But if the car has had a serious crash, and you have the option between one without . Then the choice is easy. A car with crash damage ( even repaired ) is a reason to get the price down
@@D3Sshooter its a shoestring project (ie no cash) but I am trying to do what I can. But I have a different intake and a Mikuni. How long are your intake runners? I had a Mikuni intake before but changed to a TWM which has 15cm runners.
Prachtige bak ! Geweldige sound ! Racen..... een dure aangelegenheid want het blijft niet bij deze kosten om de wagen in orde te zetten. Maar tja, af en toe een pleziertje moet kunnen vind ik... ! ;-)
Das waar Philip, Ik heb twee van mijn oldtimers verkocht ( Mini and mGB GT V8). En die zullen nu voor de fun races betalen... Weet je , ik ben 61 en als ik nog wil racen is het nu . Niet met 10 jaar... Wie weet leven we dan nog. Ik ga niet op reis, drink totaal geen alcohol, rook niet en ben eigenlijk een beetje een vervormde minimalist wat kledij en dagelijkse zaken betreft.
@@D3Sshooter Ik begrijp je heel goed. Ik ben er ook 60.... drinken zeer uitzonderlijk, ik kan er namelijk niet tegen. Roken totaal niet. Kledij... ik ben de gelukkigste mens in mijn overall. Als ik mij dan n's moet optalloren voor een gelegenheid zou ik het liefst van al in een hele chique overall er naar toe gaan. Eventueel met een plastron, want zeg nu zelf, een chique overall met plastron, dat staat toch geweldig hé. Reizen kan ik wel geld aan geven, liefst met de moto, ook wel n's gaan skieën en om mijn vrouw een pleziertje te doen, tja, ik moet die ook wat gunnen hé. Jammer dat de GT V8 weg is... zo'n prachtige bak. Maar ja, je hebt gelijk, racen is voor nu ! Ik kijk al uit naar je volgende avontuur !
Hi Charles, that is fine... the design of the runners is a complex issue there are many factors that affect it including the porting on the head... so what i stated is my experience. But happy to hear your experience... TXS
@@D3Sshooter , i note the same as vizard, on my fiat 500 engine. Plan to make a longer intake for my frog, but not finish yet. I will tell you if i do something correct and if it work. Ihaven’t any experience on mgb
@@D3Sshooter , i’ve just made a try, in order to have my A series 1275 lowcompression of my frog a bit torquier, at low rpm. I make an aluminium extension, to lenght it about 9cm. Same stub stack. One seconde less to 0-80 km/h and 0-100 km/h
Great video and the car seems to be in a very good shape. It will give you tons of fun. I might have missed it in the video but what was the approximate purchase price for the car?
Thanks for the comments, yep I do it all and that takes a lot of time.. Light, framing, editing and of course doing the job at the same time. That is why you will seldom see a moving camera.
Thanks for the comments, Looking at purely the gears , your are 100% right. But let me say it like this. They are making a stronger gearbox in the sense that they do not push outwards lateral like the others. So yes by them-self they are not stronger as such.
Mathematically you are correct Fred, but only due to the size of the tooth root which is somewhat larger for helical gears than SC gears, however in reality it really depends on who has made those gears and from which material ? for instance gears used in most classic Minis and their derivatives including MG and MG Turbo, ERA Turbo etc use a lower grade steel than the leading performance gear manufacturers use, for instance we use the same steel for making our gears as is used on the Chinook helicopter blade gears which used to fail on a regular basis until they created the new steel grades which they and we now use for our gear sets. The main reasons for using SC gears is because they are so much cheaper to manufacture so it was relatively easy to create different gear set (ratio changes) quickly and cheaply, this gear ratio advantage lead to advantages within racing, side loads are generally removed entirely but with larger increases in engine torque shafts can bend and reintroduce side loads, again better materials helps here, but don't forget the load across the shafts will be similar as with helical gears, although with SC there will be slightly more vibration for similarly machined gear teeth forms due to the contact path form. but you can't beat the sound of a decent set of SC gears.
@@D3Sshooter the push away forces will not change that much unless you increase the torque. The gears will still want to "climb" over the mating gear !
@@martinfidel7086 Yes I like the sound of a straight cut box. Helical gears have more teeth engagement area than straight cut, but your correct about axial thrust loads. They're not particularly cheaper to make, you still have to pay some one to stand at machine and make them. If you think they're cheaper go to X-Trac or Hewland and see how you go. All said and done, I'd have a straight cut box in my race car any day!
@@frednerk5959 I have been making gears for 20 years so I can tell you for fact SC are cheaper to make, the machinery is cheaper and the tooling, the master gears, checking fixtures etc are all cheaper for SC gears, one of my machines has to have a set of guides for every different helix angle which means a LH & a RH guide at about £6000 each. straight cut only requires one and its about £2000 a saving of £10k straight away
You did not mention FIA HTP (Historic Tecnical Passport) witch is essential if you want to race in most Historical races and i can see some problems with your car if you want race in races that demand a HTP. Good Lucjk
@@D3Sshooter Have to know what year class do you intend to race the car, but you could have problem with the aluminium cooler the rollers and the boot lid in fiber glass and the widen body, but you have to see what is homologated to this car of that year with FIA. Have prepared a MGB GT 20 years ago for FIA HTP. Do not remember all the details
Thanks for the comments, You can look at things from different angles... Going on vacation is also a waist e of money , so is any hobby. The point is as long as it provides enjoyment and pleasure it is never a waiste whatever one does
Interesting car and video. Back in the 1980s I had some customers that raced their MGBs at Sears Point in Marin County California. Sometimes I would pit for them. Some were very fancy, whatever-the-cost, cars and some were raced on a shoestring.
You may know all this already but for others that may be interested...
The hood on that car is from an MGC (the 6 cylinder MG) and was made from aluminum originally.
The Armstrong lever-arm shock absorbers are very sturdy and some were available with externally adjustable valves. Simply turn the knob to a the desired setting.
The cylinder head looks like an earlier model (pre-air injection) head.
The Cannon intake manifold was a common aftermarket intake for MGBs with the Weber DCOE carbs. Cannon made both a "long runner" and "short runner" version of the intake for the MGB 1800 engines. You have the "long runner" version.
Redline Weber in the USA is the major outlet for everything Weber in the USA. They also sell the Cannon manifolds. Pierce Manifolds in the USA also sells the Cannon manifolds.
The "puke can" looks like it takes cooling system overflow AND crankcase breather overflow. There is either some interesting plumbing inside that plastic container or a real mess!
Robert Bentley Publications has a factory manual for the MGB with a detailed and complete section on the special tuning for how the works cars were set up for competition. It is at the back of the manual.
The rear brake drums look stock.
In the 20 years I worked on MGAs, MGBs, and MGCs (and Sprites and Midgets) the only time I ever had to replace front brake rotors was when they had run the pads all the way down to bare metal. Otherwise the brake rotors hold up very very well.
Check the front engine mounts also.
David thank you somuch for this great write up... Much appreciated
I once owned a 1970 Triumph GT 6 + it was White with red and black houndstooth interior. After opening it for 2 years a mechanic offered me twice what I paid for it. When I asked him why? He said it was one of 500 made for the race team. Those that were left over were exported to the USA. It ended up in an accident and totaled. Great ,fun car.
just love your sense of style..in cars, your farm..and art, decorations in your castle..and editing too...
Thank you
The carburetor setup looks like what I had on my Mini 1275GT back in the 80s. The central instrument had to make room for it 😊
Thanks for the comments,
Look at this car ! And this engine ! Simplicity and pleasure. Ive been waiting for a vidéo like this since forever 🤩
Thanks for the comments
The quality of your video's is just perfect, no matter what the subject is.
Thanks for the comments
Cool car, Steve. The comment on the Spanish Webers was funny 😄. I believe Italian made carburetors are almost impossible to find. I know Dellorto doesn’t make them anymore, not sure if Weber does.
Very true!, they are hard to find but worth the money... I noted that Andrew B had some good experiences with the Spanish build Webers.. I did only had bad experiences.
Hi, I used to work as a technician prepping and supporting various types of single seat, open wheel cars. I now own a small company building maintaining and restoring classic motorcycles. Sadly here in the UK racing is incredibly expensive. I have a Norton Domiracer Lowboy replica but I'm afraid I'm feeling like I'd bounce as well as I did in my younger days. Good luck with your new car.
As an aside, it's okay to remove the auto advance on an engine that is going to be used only within a limited rev range, usually high rpm as the retarded range is to produce more torque at lower rpm during normal driving. A close ratio gearbox will come into it's own in this state of tune along with a well designed cam.
One word of advice I would give is to learn to read Dyno reports. Maximum power is of course important but, in my experience drivability is a very important factor ie good power needs to be produced throughout the proposed usable rpm range.
Finally, do you know how to make a small fortune from motor racing....
Start with a large fortune 😁
Great detailed video Steve I am looking forward to seeing the fire extinguisher being plumbed in
Coming soon!
An interesting tour clear and concise as always, most likely the next one will be too. Looking forward to it..
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for walking us over your B racer. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Bravo, you inspect a car as I do. I will add check for missing cotter pins, seems it a favorite trick to leave off cotter pins on castle nuts. Found a nail used on my TR3, and missing cotter pins on my MGA when I was doing my inspections. +1 on a aluminum fly wheel, I have one on my TR6. I do not race these cars, well the TR6 is a autocross car. My son races a Miata and the same rules apply. I as you do my own work, only way you can afford this this much fun.
Thanks for the comments, good practices
Very well done video, super informative, good sound, lighting etc. Looking forward to see the next video!
Thank you for the comments
I'm totally agree with you regarding the Spanish Weber carbs. Don't ask how I found! A video about how to remove ignition advance and modify ignition curve for Weber will help me alot. I'm stuck for an year in this issue.
Beautiful video and precious info as usual! 🤘
Interesting comment regarding Weber carbs made in Spain - yes the early ones with the 3 progression holes had tuning issues but I understood the newer 4 hole DCOE carbs were as good as the Italian made ones?
Thanks for the comments, I had several new Spanish build DGAS and DCOE's and al were very poor in build... Maybe that changed meanwhile . I do know that some of the so quoted " made in Spain" are in essence build in China...
Well done. I really have enjoyed your videos as they have helped me sort out my own MG. I do find it interesting that specific mechanical updates and repairs were absent from all the other exacting documentation that you received with this race car, yet nothing is more conclusive than finding out what is what on your own.
I used to be involved with building and racing MGBs in the UK. Looking forward to watching this project.
Thanks for the comments, any good tips are always welcome
It was nearly 17 yrs ago. From watching your other videos you know what your doing. The only thing I wasn’t sure about was your axle ratio measurement. 2:1 seems very tall, the car will have no acceleration.
@@andrewstoffel1170 , I know were as the standard is 3.9
That was a fun tour of your car - looking forward to seeing the details of your efforts in future videos!
Coming soon! Thanks
Looks like you have found another gem to work on !
Maybe , I sold two of my others
Hi Steve the word you are looking for in describing the cars race history is Provenance which your car has in spades .It looks like a beautiful car ,I personally think a.race car always looks better with a few battle scar's , but of course that is personal choice .Great content as usual Steve , really looking forward to your exploits in it.PS ,great English Oxford dictionary description of the welding Steve ,Ha Ha .
Thank you, that is like me lots of scars, but didn't mak mee prettier.
Steve, congratulations on the new project, look forward to more excellent videos 👍
Thanks 👍
Enjoyed the video. Look forward to the follow up videos.
Thanks for the comments
G'day Steve I'll will be looking forward to some racing videos .cheers
Thank you
Optimal intake manifold`s runners length is a much more complex thing you gave to understand. There are different harmonic pulses to which the length can be dimensioned. I have seen similar racing engines (4 cylinders and 1 DCOE) equipped with really long intake manifolds.
You are absolutely right, I just gave some basic facts as we could spend a complete hour and more on trumpets, runners and manifolds in general..
Another fun project Steve. I like the race car themes both this and the single seater.
I would think the big red dash light is low oil pressure warning light. I have fitted one to my TR3a that I sprint and hill climb. Keep up with the videos 👍
Thanks for the comments, and indeed ... i did check it afterwards and it is a warning light for the oil pressure. Soon this week more on the mono-coq race car as I received some parts
If you want to race under FIA appendix K rules get the homologation papers for the car you want to buy and have a look if all the modifications of the car are are in the homologation or permitted by the rules.
I think you can have some problems to get a HTP for your car. I think the Sebring kit was only homologated for the MGC, and they had no rear spoiler. Aluminium cooler only allowed if "period correct".
Also electronic ignition (123 ignition) is not permitted.
Historic racing can be a lot of fun to reasonable costs, but only if you don't want to compete on the top end.
You are right, like the 123 ignition is not an option... The point here is that the Annex K does apply , but there is a certain deviation allowed in the Triumph- competition GT class. It has been racing for several years, in state it is with the approvals.... It is understood that it might not be allowed for other classes... I will contact an inspector as the material and regulations are rather complex
The targeted class is : The Triumph Competition & British HTGT is a racing series of the TR-Register Deutschland e.V. for British roadsters, GTs and touring cars built up to 1981!
The Serial Regulations of Triumph Competition & British HTGT is approved and registered by Autosport Switzerland (hereinafter called ASA) under REG-NO TC-202103.
British GTs's and Touring Cars are approved if they meet the sporting and technical regulations. The year of build of GT vehicles must be before 01/01/1981.
The year of build of Touring Cars must be before 1.1.1966 and the car need to comply with Appendix K regulations. Here are just a few point of the regulation: Engine block and cylinder head of the basic model must be maintained. Cylinder head gasket and compression ratio are free. Milling of the cylinder head is allowed. Reshaping of the channels by removal of material is permitted. The bore of an engine is free within the limits of its displacement class.
Vehicles through the use of repair parts exceed the capacity limit slightly will be counted in the original class. An increase in displacement over the repair measure the standard bore of 1,5 mm or 0.060 "for such vehicles is also prohibited.
The homologated stroke may not be changed. Valve train and valve size are free as long as the original system is preserved. The rocker ratio is optional, roller rocker arms are permitted. Connecting rods, pistons, crankshaft and bearings are free.
Feel free to look the complete regulation here www.triumph-competition.de/images/documents/2021/2021-FIA-TC-Reglement-en.pdf
@@D3Sshooter Complex is the right word. I know guys that lost interest in historic racing because of the complex FIA rules. To find the right paragraph in the relevant appendix (K, current J for safety, J of periode) can get you bad headache.
Here is the link to the homologation paper (No 3017) of your car - MGB GT:
(Sorry, had to delete the link. Otherwise post wouldn't be visible. google fia homologation papers.)
The car was homologated in Group 3 which is close to series production like later Group N.
But you can also prepare the car to Group 4 rules which allow more extensive modifications.
Than you have to compete in Group 4 of course.
The advantage of building a car within the rules to get a FIA-HTP is you to have a large selection of events to compete.
If your car was built for the The Triumph Competition & British HTGT Series and you only want to compete there, I think you will not get much problems.
In any case I wish you all the best and a lot of fun!
@@RallyeRacin9 , Indeed and much appreciated...
I've dreamt about a MGB-GT race car since I was a kid... Still working on that dream...
Thanks for the comments, you and me ....with the same dream
Awesome video Steve - have fitted a 123 and Weber plus other mods to mine this year, but would love to learn some tips on setting up both from you when you get to that stage with this machine - 150BHP is pretty impressive for the B series!
Will do David, and maybe have a look on my weber videos..
Lots of interesting information.
I would have thought that moving the fuel tank inside the car would raise the centre of gravity. Fuel can be quite heavy, but maybe race cars don't need as large a tank as a street car?
Thanks for the comments, the tanks are typical small in terms of content to reduce weight. Just enough to race...
Alweer een mooi project, je hebt misschien ook al naar het UA-cam kanaal gekeken van David Russel wilks, hij heeft ook een mooie race prepped MGB roadster hardtop. Bij hem zijn de Armstrong shocks instelbaar...blijkbaar moeilijk te vinden. Veel succes !
Bedankt, ja ik ken David ... doet fantastisch werk
i love this kind of video on older race car. Though i am not sure on your car but, usually a big red light is the low oil pressure light or aka the "dummy light". Nice car mate
Thanks for the comments, indeed red lite is oil pressure as I found out later
put a bit of oil in each cylinder and then do another compression test and compare to what the first test figures are.
Thanks for the comments
no problem with Spanish Weber DCOE's........running perfecty for 30.000km and i have 3 of them
Thanks for the comments, and good for you
Great job, Steve 👍
Thanks
Hey Steve
Happy Sunday from🇨🇦
Same to you Tim
@@D3Sshooter
Thank you🙂
Looks like some great videos to come on this 👍
Hope so!
Great new project. Already looking forward to some new videos here. You emphasis on checking this and that for past crashes. How important is it to have a crash-free race car? Even if you buy a car for personal use on the street I still prefer a crash free car. Though honestly... if you get something that is decent fixed and you have financial reductionwhy not go for such a car?
Thanks for the comments, there is nothing wrong if things are repaired as they should. But if the car has had a serious crash, and you have the option between one without . Then the choice is easy. A car with crash damage ( even repaired ) is a reason to get the price down
This is going to be fun, I have a GT i am hoping to autocross
Thanks for the comments, maybe you could load a few video's of yours ?
@@D3Sshooter its a shoestring project (ie no cash) but I am trying to do what I can. But I have a different intake and a Mikuni. How long are your intake runners? I had a Mikuni intake before but changed to a TWM which has 15cm runners.
Prachtige bak ! Geweldige sound ! Racen..... een dure aangelegenheid want het blijft niet bij deze kosten om de wagen in orde te zetten. Maar tja, af en toe een pleziertje moet kunnen vind ik... ! ;-)
Das waar Philip, Ik heb twee van mijn oldtimers verkocht ( Mini and mGB GT V8). En die zullen nu voor de fun races betalen... Weet je , ik ben 61 en als ik nog wil racen is het nu . Niet met 10 jaar... Wie weet leven we dan nog. Ik ga niet op reis, drink totaal geen alcohol, rook niet en ben eigenlijk een beetje een vervormde minimalist wat kledij en dagelijkse zaken betreft.
@@D3Sshooter Ik begrijp je heel goed. Ik ben er ook 60.... drinken zeer uitzonderlijk, ik kan er namelijk niet tegen. Roken totaal niet. Kledij... ik ben de gelukkigste mens in mijn overall. Als ik mij dan n's moet optalloren voor een gelegenheid zou ik het liefst van al in een hele chique overall er naar toe gaan. Eventueel met een plastron, want zeg nu zelf, een chique overall met plastron, dat staat toch geweldig hé. Reizen kan ik wel geld aan geven, liefst met de moto, ook wel n's gaan skieën en om mijn vrouw een pleziertje te doen, tja, ik moet die ook wat gunnen hé.
Jammer dat de GT V8 weg is... zo'n prachtige bak. Maar ja, je hebt gelijk, racen is voor nu ! Ik kijk al uit naar je volgende avontuur !
Great video!
Thanks for the comments
Hi, great video. I do not agree with your conclusion about manifold lenght and rpm cibled. ( David vizard, and others, tell the inverse)
Hi Charles, that is fine... the design of the runners is a complex issue there are many factors that affect it including the porting on the head... so what i stated is my experience. But happy to hear your experience... TXS
@@D3Sshooter , i note the same as vizard, on my fiat 500 engine. Plan to make a longer intake for my frog, but not finish yet. I will tell you if i do something correct and if it work. Ihaven’t any experience on mgb
@@D3Sshooter , i’ve just made a try, in order to have my A series 1275 lowcompression of my frog a bit torquier, at low rpm. I make an aluminium extension, to lenght it about 9cm. Same stub stack. One seconde less to 0-80 km/h and 0-100 km/h
@@charlesv20 Thanks for the feedback Charles, that is indeed a good improvement..
Steve have you thought about a short throw gear shift to speed up your gear shifting
Thanks for the comments, that is indeed a very good point. Just need to check if it is allowed
Great video and the car seems to be in a very good shape. It will give you tons of fun.
I might have missed it in the video but what was the approximate purchase price for the car?
It was listed at 19K euro, but we swapped cars with my street MGB-GT V8
Very well produced video, great presentation also. Is it just you who edits and puts it all together?
Thanks for the comments, yep I do it all and that takes a lot of time.. Light, framing, editing and of course doing the job at the same time. That is why you will seldom see a moving camera.
@@D3Sshooter excellent work, the finished product looks as good as any professional television programming.
Fantastic
Shouldn't a DCOE have an enrichment circuit rather than a choke?
Thanks for the comments, well it is actually an enrichment system that sits on the side....
“the lighter the car….the more power….”😂😂😂
Sorry mate, straight cut gears are NOT stronger! They use less horse power, that's why there used in racing!
Thanks for the comments, Looking at purely the gears , your are 100% right. But let me say it like this. They are making a stronger gearbox in the sense that they do not push outwards lateral like the others. So yes by them-self they are not stronger as such.
Mathematically you are correct Fred, but only due to the size of the tooth root which is somewhat larger for helical gears than SC gears, however in reality it really depends on who has made those gears and from which material ? for instance gears used in most classic Minis and their derivatives including MG and MG Turbo, ERA Turbo etc use a lower grade steel than the leading performance gear manufacturers use, for instance we use the same steel for making our gears as is used on the Chinook helicopter blade gears which used to fail on a regular basis until they created the new steel grades which they and we now use for our gear sets.
The main reasons for using SC gears is because they are so much cheaper to manufacture so it was relatively easy to create different gear set (ratio changes) quickly and cheaply, this gear ratio advantage lead to advantages within racing, side loads are generally removed entirely but with larger increases in engine torque shafts can bend and reintroduce side loads, again better materials helps here, but don't forget the load across the shafts will be similar as with helical gears, although with SC there will be slightly more vibration for similarly machined gear teeth forms due to the contact path form. but you can't beat the sound of a decent set of SC gears.
@@D3Sshooter the push away forces will not change that much unless you increase the torque. The gears will still want to "climb" over the mating gear !
@@martinfidel7086 Yes I like the sound of a straight cut box. Helical gears have more teeth engagement area than straight cut, but your correct about axial thrust loads.
They're not particularly cheaper to make, you still have to pay some one to stand at machine and make them. If you think they're cheaper go to X-Trac or Hewland and see how you go. All said and done, I'd have a straight cut box in my race car any day!
@@frednerk5959 I have been making gears for 20 years so I can tell you for fact SC are cheaper to make, the machinery is cheaper and the tooling, the master gears, checking fixtures etc are all cheaper for SC gears, one of my machines has to have a set of guides for every different helix angle which means a LH & a RH guide at about £6000 each. straight cut only requires one and its about £2000 a saving of £10k straight away
👍💯
You did not mention FIA HTP (Historic Tecnical Passport) witch is essential if you want to race in most Historical races and i can see some problems with your car if you want race in races that demand a HTP. Good Lucjk
@@helge5503 , Indeed very good point. There are few things that will need changing indeed
@@helge5503 , would appreciate if you could list those points... thank you
@@D3Sshooter Have to know what year class do you intend to race the car, but you could have problem with the aluminium cooler the rollers and the boot lid in fiber glass and the widen body, but you have to see what is homologated to this car of that year with FIA. Have prepared a MGB GT 20 years ago for FIA HTP. Do not remember all the details
Forgot that you could find out who is technical represenant for FIA in your country and talk with him
I used to go Autocross racing .I was cheap far cheaper than circuit racing ,
I guess you mean polycarbonate, not plexiglas ?
Thanks for the comments, yes indeed. we cal it plexiglas as kind of an overall name
... again, too long to watch !
Thank you, some like it long some like it short... all a mater of personal taste
You really can’t include the words practical and race car in the same sentence. Race cars are inherently impractical. A complete waste of money.
Thanks for the comments, You can look at things from different angles... Going on vacation is also a waist e of money , so is any hobby. The point is as long as it provides enjoyment and pleasure it is never a waiste whatever one does