Bro, I bought my 3d printer 3 months ago, I got it to print things for myseld, this might vary from your experience but a small business seeked me out to print out pieces for them, my printer is now fully dedicated to print their pieces, it paid itself off in 2 months and its made 3.5 times its value in 3 months. I had to buy 2 more printers to keep up with their demand. Now I don't have time to print things for myself but I thank God that its turning into a very profitable side hustle.
Thx for the video. Some tips for your model there - unless you absolutely have to, never model in square holes. To avoid using support model in diamond, hexagon, or oval shaped holes. Even triangular. Also try and offset each hole from the other (staggered) instead of in line . There will be less stringing and hopping of the nozzle per layer this way. In regards to plastic types. Use what makes sense for your product. Pla is easy to print yes but it snaps and cracks under pressure. It also deforms in sunlight. If you are making snap fittings, clamps, or anything that has to flex and wrap around other objects then petg is the way to go. It gives a little and returns to shape. If you want petg properties but higher stiffness then go with petg-CF. One of the best materials out there. Petg is NOT a crappy plastic. It is simply different and requires tuning to get right. I have spent the better part of a year printing only petg and petg-cf. I have learned alot. I now get perfect parts every time. My overhangs are superb, lines invisible, no clogging , no blobs, no drooling or stringing. And I can print it just as fast as normal pla to boot.
On the Prusa Slicer you can goto the Print Settings -> Support Material -> Options for support material and raft -> Top contact Z distance: value change to .25 or .3 when printing with PETG. PETG is very sticky and it does better with a little more room. You can print at .2 layer or .3 layer heights. This is what I do when I have to use supports in a PETG print.
I built an advanced table tennis robot using my Prusa mk3. There were many issues and challenges. I managed to complete it one year later. Im planning on mass producing the product for the department education in Cambodia. do you think I would be able to do it faster if I made use of a FLsun S1 ? I would also like to post the video
I have owned a 3d printer for a while, and have made and sold fidget spinners.. I am planning on getting another printer, but I want to get a decent one. I would love advice getting a print farm started
Support feedback: Manual/paint on supports makes a huge difference if you are up to learn how to best add them. Increase the pattern spacing, increase the interface layer count, increase the distance between the support and the print. I also use dentist tools (picks) and tiny files to help remove supports that are still attached in hard to reach places.
The big issue for farms is piracy close downs. Always license check all sales no matter where the stl came from. No matter if you drew it or found it free or purchased the stl. Always license check before upload. How do you know its original and not already been invented and licensed and royalties apply. Selling a print without license checks and not paying royalty is piracy a crime. Ive learned all this the hard way. Never use a farm that cant or wont answer the questions. Do you license check all sales and uploads. If they wont answer dont use them. 100% of comunity should never ever use a pirate farm.
From the clip where you showed overhangs it looks like you were printing it with the lip at the top, in my experience if you flipped it, you could eliminate much of the material when printing for supports, also instead of rectangles if you did a helical pattern instead you could print it all interlocking with no supports necessary for your bridges and eliminate even more waste of materials. Just a suggestion, happy printing!! 😀
Started on my path to 3d printing. Always had a interest but now I have a little extra time to pursue this as a hobby. I appreciate the tips, especially the one regarding the fireball. That’s been on my mind a lot and the fumes that might get produced when printing.
Every manufacturing process requires different design techniques. I see multiple ways to make your part an assembly and remove the need for supports. Overall, great video and keep up the good work!
Adaptive layer height also works with easily breakable supports. Sometimes it also mean speed up in printing time (depending on a model for example holes usually means smaller layer so if print has a lot of tiny holes it could increase printing time but for consistent structure slicer chooses bigger layers so printing is faster).
Pla prints well but does not make a durable product in most cases, learn petg, perfect the settings and it will come out as good as pla. I have been printing for 8 years and now only use petg and tpu . Thanks for sharing your experience with 3d printing for money. Larry
that design needs a lot of work. I would spiralize the support struts, like a thread going upwards, in constant 45 degree angle, and few uprights. The Top gap would start building in 45 degree angle, as well. No support would then be needed. I would also make them thicker towards outwards, infill is just empty space but makes the part much stronger. Chunkier the better with 3d printing. Other way would be just making a hexagonal pattern all the way thru, but i have no idea how to model that in CAD, but it's doable as well. Hexagonal pattern would have the downside of having tons of retractions and travels however, so most likely doing say 3 or 4 spirals with 3x vertical supports to tie the spirals together strongly would be best option. Add some depth to the spirals (say 3-5mm) thinning towards the the filter material and you can have with ~same material consumption much stronger part with potentially even more filter surface area. Would print much faster, for much less material, while providing stronger and better looking part. 3d printing complexity comes almost free, so you can play with it. Slant3D talks a lot about it. You can even outsource your MFG to them. 3d printing is lower cost than injection molding when done at scale; Do the model changes for no post processing support free printing, and then check how auto ejection works --> It's basicly what 5 lines of GCODE and then just copy paste until full spool is utilized :) After that, just go collect parts and replace filament spools. After that development, you will not even consider injection molding, you are swimming in parts and your bottleneck is selling them all. Oh and i have a habit of over engineering, over optimizing, so probably just doing a little bit of the above would yield 80% of the benefit. PETG is crapola indeed, almost everywhere where people say use PETG, PLA outperforms it. Joe Average 3d printer has absolutely no idea of material science. They are just repeating what someone else told them, with absolutely no critical thinking.
in the early stages and it is only going to be on the side for the foreseeable future. one of the other neat things is buying large batches of filament at less than half the normal price and be a local distributor. for example new spool is $25 each online, buy enough to get it for $10. then sell for $15-$20 locally. could even say that if they buy in bulk they get a discount. not sure how great of a way it is to make some money but it is a neat and simple way to make a bit of money even if you aren't printing/designing things to sell. also thanks for the video
if you match your distance between the support and the piece being printed and the layer height, you can get them to release easy.. so example would be if you want to print .28mm then match your distance of supports to that .28mm. This works for me at normal usage. Hopefully it translates to your application.
Nice Video! Thank you for the information. I just bought my First 3d printer to make my own Projects! But coming from ejection molding, I can Tell you that this process can be a pain in the butt as well but this also highly depends on the quantity of parts that you will sell and also the Part itself.
I'm not sure if these are tears of joy or sadness. Funny how something so obvious and simple gets completely overlooked. You're right, I could get rid of most of the supports, I'm surprised I didn't think about that. The hard part will be creating the curved lines on a cylinder, thanks for the tip!
@@waltsreviews90 Even if you turned your squares 45 deg so that they were "diamonds" you would eliminate most of those supports for the squares. You'd have essentially the same filter area, just in an orientation offset by 45 deg.
Bro, I bought my 3d printer 3 months ago, I got it to print things for myseld, this might vary from your experience but a small business seeked me out to print out pieces for them, my printer is now fully dedicated to print their pieces, it paid itself off in 2 months and its made 3.5 times its value in 3 months. I had to buy 2 more printers to keep up with their demand. Now I don't have time to print things for myself but I thank God that its turning into a very profitable side hustle.
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing
What kind of business was it and why did they seek you out?
Thank you for making this video. Great insights and I agree 100% about the 1 printer and 1 plastic idea!
Thx for the video. Some tips for your model there - unless you absolutely have to, never model in square holes. To avoid using support model in diamond, hexagon, or oval shaped holes. Even triangular. Also try and offset each hole from the other (staggered) instead of in line . There will be less stringing and hopping of the nozzle per layer this way. In regards to plastic types. Use what makes sense for your product. Pla is easy to print yes but it snaps and cracks under pressure. It also deforms in sunlight. If you are making snap fittings, clamps, or anything that has to flex and wrap around other objects then petg is the way to go. It gives a little and returns to shape. If you want petg properties but higher stiffness then go with petg-CF. One of the best materials out there. Petg is NOT a crappy plastic. It is simply different and requires tuning to get right. I have spent the better part of a year printing only petg and petg-cf. I have learned alot. I now get perfect parts every time. My overhangs are superb, lines invisible, no clogging , no blobs, no drooling or stringing. And I can print it just as fast as normal pla to boot.
On the Prusa Slicer you can goto the Print Settings -> Support Material -> Options for support material and raft -> Top contact Z distance: value change to .25 or .3 when printing with PETG. PETG is very sticky and it does better with a little more room. You can print at .2 layer or .3 layer heights. This is what I do when I have to use supports in a PETG print.
you could look at the intermediate step to a injection molding mold is Resin casting in silicone mold. material cost higher cycle time is in minutes
Good advice, thanks!
Rather than stepping into injection molding, what about outsourcing to Slant 3D?
I built an advanced table tennis robot using my Prusa mk3. There were many issues and challenges. I managed to complete it one year later. Im planning on mass producing the product for the department education in Cambodia.
do you think I would be able to do it faster if I made use of a FLsun S1 ?
I would also like to post the video
About support. Try in Cura Tree supports or in Prusaslicer Snug. I have a Prusa MKs3+ and I haven't issues with supports.
Good to know, thanks!
I have owned a 3d printer for a while, and have made and sold fidget spinners.. I am planning on getting another printer, but I want to get a decent one. I would love advice getting a print farm started
Support feedback: Manual/paint on supports makes a huge difference if you are up to learn how to best add them. Increase the pattern spacing, increase the interface layer count, increase the distance between the support and the print. I also use dentist tools (picks) and tiny files to help remove supports that are still attached in hard to reach places.
All good advice, thanks for sharing
The big issue for farms is piracy close downs.
Always license check all sales no matter where the stl came from.
No matter if you drew it or found it free or purchased the stl.
Always license check before upload.
How do you know its original and not already been invented and licensed and royalties apply. Selling a print without license checks and not paying royalty is piracy a crime.
Ive learned all this the hard way.
Never use a farm that cant or wont answer the questions.
Do you license check all sales and uploads. If they wont answer dont use them.
100% of comunity should never ever use a pirate farm.
Thanks a lot for the advice. It's good to know.
Match layer height with the z distance from supports, so 0.2mm height with 0.2mm support distance. 0.1mm layer height with 0.1mm support distance.
Right, but have you ever done more than .2? .1 and .2 work, but never seen .4 or .6 or .8 work.
From the clip where you showed overhangs it looks like you were printing it with the lip at the top, in my experience if you flipped it, you could eliminate much of the material when printing for supports, also instead of rectangles if you did a helical pattern instead you could print it all interlocking with no supports necessary for your bridges and eliminate even more waste of materials. Just a suggestion, happy printing!! 😀
Thanks for the advise, I appreciate it!
Can you offer any suggestions on how to prevent layer shifting on your ARTILLERY X-1 printer
Started on my path to 3d printing. Always had a interest but now I have a little extra time to pursue this as a hobby. I appreciate the tips, especially the one regarding the fireball. That’s been on my mind a lot and the fumes that might get produced when printing.
Every manufacturing process requires different design techniques. I see multiple ways to make your part an assembly and remove the need for supports. Overall, great video and keep up the good work!
Thank you!
Adaptive layer height also works with easily breakable supports. Sometimes it also mean speed up in printing time (depending on a model for example holes usually means smaller layer so if print has a lot of tiny holes it could increase printing time but for consistent structure slicer chooses bigger layers so printing is faster).
Thanks for the tip.
I didn’t know that was a thing ❤
Pla prints well but does not make a durable product in most cases, learn petg, perfect the settings and it will come out as good as pla. I have been printing for 8 years and now only use petg and tpu . Thanks for sharing your experience with 3d printing for money. Larry
that design needs a lot of work.
I would spiralize the support struts, like a thread going upwards, in constant 45 degree angle, and few uprights. The Top gap would start building in 45 degree angle, as well. No support would then be needed. I would also make them thicker towards outwards, infill is just empty space but makes the part much stronger. Chunkier the better with 3d printing.
Other way would be just making a hexagonal pattern all the way thru, but i have no idea how to model that in CAD, but it's doable as well. Hexagonal pattern would have the downside of having tons of retractions and travels however, so most likely doing say 3 or 4 spirals with 3x vertical supports to tie the spirals together strongly would be best option. Add some depth to the spirals (say 3-5mm) thinning towards the the filter material and you can have with ~same material consumption much stronger part with potentially even more filter surface area.
Would print much faster, for much less material, while providing stronger and better looking part.
3d printing complexity comes almost free, so you can play with it. Slant3D talks a lot about it. You can even outsource your MFG to them.
3d printing is lower cost than injection molding when done at scale; Do the model changes for no post processing support free printing, and then check how auto ejection works --> It's basicly what 5 lines of GCODE and then just copy paste until full spool is utilized :) After that, just go collect parts and replace filament spools.
After that development, you will not even consider injection molding, you are swimming in parts and your bottleneck is selling them all.
Oh and i have a habit of over engineering, over optimizing, so probably just doing a little bit of the above would yield 80% of the benefit.
PETG is crapola indeed, almost everywhere where people say use PETG, PLA outperforms it. Joe Average 3d printer has absolutely no idea of material science. They are just repeating what someone else told them, with absolutely no critical thinking.
How do you not blow a breaker
in the early stages and it is only going to be on the side for the foreseeable future. one of the other neat things is buying large batches of filament at less than half the normal price and be a local distributor. for example new spool is $25 each online, buy enough to get it for $10. then sell for $15-$20 locally. could even say that if they buy in bulk they get a discount. not sure how great of a way it is to make some money but it is a neat and simple way to make a bit of money even if you aren't printing/designing things to sell. also thanks for the video
No problem, thanks for the tips!
if you match your distance between the support and the piece being printed and the layer height, you can get them to release easy.. so example would be if you want to print .28mm then match your distance of supports to that .28mm. This works for me at normal usage. Hopefully it translates to your application.
Awesome, thanks for the advice! I'll have to try that.
i always had 0.1 mm work with supports easily. Flsun qqs pro with support gap of 0.2mm
what kind of license did you need to have to start one?
Nice Video! Thank you for the information.
I just bought my First 3d printer to make my own Projects!
But coming from ejection molding, I can Tell you that this process can be a pain in the butt as well but this also highly depends on the quantity of parts that you will sell and also the Part itself.
You have to adapt the Z distance of the supports to your layer height
Thanks for the tip!
Petg is awesome for real parts, pla is good for looking at
Definitely!
Thanks
No problem
Nice video. Does your part have to have the square holes? By redesigning you could save all the support material (at least I think so) .
I'm not sure if these are tears of joy or sadness. Funny how something so obvious and simple gets completely overlooked. You're right, I could get rid of most of the supports, I'm surprised I didn't think about that. The hard part will be creating the curved lines on a cylinder, thanks for the tip!
@@waltsreviews90 im happy I could help. Keep up the good work.
@@waltsreviews90 Even if you turned your squares 45 deg so that they were "diamonds" you would eliminate most of those supports for the squares. You'd have essentially the same filter area, just in an orientation offset by 45 deg.
Where did you get those shelving units?
uline
bambu lab 3d printers