I'm OCD with all my lawn equipment, i change my oil filters and plugs in my tractor and push mower at the beginning of the season. I use top shelf oil also. I also clean my equipment off as soon as im done mowing. I also do not eun this Garbage ethanol fuel. My motto is we work and pay way to much money for our tools and lawn equipment to just not take care of them. Another great video Dony, i really appreciate when you disassemble the engine to show what happened. Hope ya have a great weekend good Sir
@@gordbaker896 I live in Pennsylvania and the Majority of gas stations here sale Fuel that has Ethanol, so I buy canned fuel ethanol free VP. Its ridiculously priced, I pay a little of $40 for 2 gallons and for my 2cycles i use VP 40:1. I fix my own equipment when needed but really haven't had to because I do regular maintenance on my equipment
After getting my first tractor mower used, a 2011 model, about 4 years ago, I discovered that changing the oil every year was very important. I do it at the beginning of mowing season. That with a new oil filter, and a new air filter because of all the dust from areas with little or no grass. Thanks for showing what not changing the oil annually in a Briggs, just like mine, will do. I also learned that changing the oil and filter once a year for low mileage vehicles is important, too, even though I drive less than 1,500 miles per year, because oil degrades with age. I never knew that before, after all the oil changes I've done over the years. I now know how to Winterize properly, too. That's for all small engine devices. Thanks for all the great advice, Don, and for videos like this!
The oil on that dipstick was unusually clean. I'll throw out a guess he ran it low on oil, the connecting rod blew, and then he changed the oil and refilled. Then he got a new fuel pump. These engines use some oil, and the pan is so small it doesn't take much loss to cause oil level to fall to dangerous levels.
Planned obsolescence. Neglected oil change intervals could play a contributing role. However, as you mentioned, it's a common problem with this engine. This common failure indicates poor design. Whether it's intentional or not is the question.
I agree with that sludge on the bottom, this wasn't getting regular oil changes. It has always amazed me how so many people never change the oil in their equipment. It was nice of you to not charge your customer for your time, in exchange for keeping the machine for parts/scrap. You should get some decent parts from the old engine, plus you can repower the tractor and make the money back, plus you have a happy customer for future business.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing this with us. I love that you take the time to show us stuff like this. And that you save what is salvageable. Both to help the customers and not filling up the landfill. Bravo 👍
He was probably 100 % sure that the engine had a broken connecting rod. So the video changed from being a diagnostic/repair video to a dismantle for parts video.
@@rk22cc VERY IMPORTANT. different oils have different characteristics. Some oils "Flow" well in colder temperatures but get too thin in higher temperatures. Some oils "Flow" AND lubricate in higher temperatures but are too thick for lower temperatures. ALWAYS use the manufacturer recommended oil weight. NEVER use Wal-Mart brand oil in your engine.
Super video. Excellent tear down presentation.Good call on the cause being rod failure . BUT..... cylinder walls pristine, no piston scoring, crank journal perfect, wrist pin OK, cam lobes intact. All components depending on proper lubrication. Disagree with failure attributed to inadequate oil change maintenance. Connecting rod disintegrated; a component just along for the ride, so to speak; not actually requiring lubrication for itself.
Always fun to investigate a blown engine. More people need to watch your video so they can see what happends when you do not service your mower. I just did one with bent push rods. The mower was being used on a lavender farm as a mule ,no mower deck. It was scrapped.
Great video, thanks for sharing the engine split for each component...very comprehensive. Do you recommend any engine flush to prevent sludge before using the new oil? I mean time to time only.
The trade off has gotten me 3 chain saws, one _2000- concrete saw and lots of snowblowers and mowers. I always ask customers if they would ignore their cars like this regarding oil changes.
Great Video Donny ! there is a channel called "I do cars" where this young man tears down all kinds of car and truck engines to see what caused them to fail. He usually doesn't get much to part out and sell.
Dony Boy, My question isn’t related to the subject matter in this video, but I’d like to ask you a question. First off I know I messed up, just trying to find out how bad. Ok better then a year ago at the end of using my agri fab leave vac for the year I did something stupid. I didn’t want to come back in the spring and once again have carb issues,so after running all the fuel out of the b&s motor, I pour a lot of Berryman b12 in the gas tank and pulled the rope starter in hopes of not having a gummed up carb in the spring. Well when I came back (after several months) all the oil in the motor had leaked out, I’m guessing the B12 treatment ate the gaskets, can you give me some advice on what I should/could possibly do now. In my mind it was a case of if a little is good a lot will be better, I know stupid stupid. Just trying to see how to proceed or should I just toss the motor. Anything help you ( or other you tubers) can provide would be greatly appreciated, I don’t know where to turn. Thank you.
I have an old flat head or L head, valve in head like 13 briggs 13.5? anyways, got it free, on a ride on mower, from like 2003. Needed a carb clean, no biggie, starts perfect, runs decent, but no matter the rpm, has a pop. little pops. Look into it, ok, valves not sealing perfect. lap the valves, new headgasket. Now the carburator adjustments work, as its not blowing compression back into the carb/intake, but it still pops. Is this normal for those old engines? As i said, runs mint, just the pop, or light miss is a bit annoying. flywheel key is fine, good spark plug coil looks good, cleaned the spots, plus flywheel. Spent a good minute wanting it to run perfect...because who wouldn't. But man it just wants to make the annoying noise.
That's a shame- would be good to know if the oil was changed at least once per season, or if he otherwise went multiple seasons before changing it. Believe the maintenance cycle is pretty generous on these, at 50 hours in between oil changes...or otherwise 1 time per season, for a home owner 1-2 time per week use.
people love to neglect the oil never even check it. I mow a place weekly ish, had to fix up their ride on a bit to use it as its easier that way, tube battery ect.Anyways, it had about 100ml of oil...uh ok. Topped it off, take it out, starts great, then CLOUDS of smoke 2 seperate times, then it just chugged, ok weird. Maybe overfilled, but i check 2 3 times. get back after done, its WAY down. Ended up the headgasket was gone. They said they never noticed it smoke...ok. So it's been runniing on near no oil for? How long? quick job, headgasket, newplug as its petrified, runs like a champ, 0 smoke, starts run perfect. Doesn't burn a drop. funny how that can work. even flushed it out after aswell, try to get some of the compression gasses, fuel ect, out of the oil.
Nice video, I usually find the cam compression release broken in those engines. That old style was a good one. Is it worth putting a new engine in it? Thanks for the video.
...great video Don....thanks for posting.....since the only apparent damage to the engine was a snapped connecting rod, why not just rebuild that engine?....or maybe I missed something?... 🙂
Hey Donny, when taking the hood off of my JD tractor, I always forget to unplug the lights, until AFTER I have pulled the hood off.....lol It happens every time.
Great video . Yah it was spinning pretty freely . Seen bent rods a few times . Occasionally a snapped connecting rod . Great not to charge to get a free machine that might be refurbished later on for some $$
Great example of why we should do regular 50hr maintenance . Oil and grease is the cheapest thing you do to any rider. And todays quality of riders we must do the maintenance.
Is there ever a point where you would just replace the connecting rod and put it all back together for a working mower for the customer or as a used mower sale? What would your bill be to do that?
you should have your own TV Show Like a 1 Hr special I would call it the the Small Engine Channel with Donny Boy On The cable Box I would personally watch your Show I love learning how to fix things from watching you :)
Great video Donny! Thanks for posting. I've got an X-370 Deere with a failing ECU. Deere wants $330.00 for a new one, and they're only available at Deere. The ECU controls everything, and the mower won't run without it. Do you have any suggestions for an alternative? It's nuts how many mowers are going full electronic control, and when these electronic parts fail, they're stupid expensive.
As good as the other components were, I would almost be tempted to replace the rod and put it back together if the block hadn't been cracked...what I would do, is stick another used engine/long block on that mower, and sell it....
The manuals don't lie. Service intervals are there for a reason. Especially on air cooled small engines. You should have seen the oil I drained from a walk behind. Looked like gray colored milk.
You should have pulled the sparkplug and put a zip tie down the hole to see if piston is moving. Also look at that sludge. The customer TOTALLY changed the oil when it stopped working and then brought it to you
How I do it: 1) Check the oil 2) Put a pencil in the spark plug hole and spin the engine by hand and see if the piston moves 3) No movement equals blown connecting rod Just had one this week. Customer had only 60 hours on Cub Cadet XT1 riding mower, three years of use. Never changed the oil. Brother in law changed the oil and did not tighten the oil filter enough and oil leaked out and pooched the engine. "Free" mower was the result.
I cringe when i drive by the dealers and they leave all the new ones out in the weather, i think it sends the wrong message, but i agree this machine was neglected, at least put a cover on it.
The crankcase was cracked behind the starter so that was finished , with enough donor parts an engine could be re-birthed , a Franken-Briggs of sorts ;-)
Hmm, seemed to me like the only broken part was the connecting rod. Is there a reason you didn’t replace it and put it back together? How would the cost of that repair compare to a working unit of similar age?
@@Shorty4808 yep comes down to cost of replacement part and labour. If it's your own machine and you're capable of doing it definitely worth it, not always the case for a shop though
Hey Dony..you don't have a spare engine laying around ? The mower looks to be in good shape might be worth saving to sell ..people love their John Deere's..lol..i did notice what was left of the connecting rod the bolt looked loose..i see this a lot..have a good day..cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Donyboy, I desperately need some help. Recently I purchased a Husqvarna riding mower from marketplace. My dilemma is that it doesn't won't to move. Could you please help me troubleshoot it. I can't afford anything new or anything used at this moment
I know you had a good idea the piston was not moving, but how come you didn't just pop the spark plug out to easily verify this fact??? Otherwise great job
The single cylinder Briggs engines are terrible. I have not seen a v-twin with any of the issues that the single experiences. The compression release on the cam and the connecting rods are their Achilles heal. I wish I could say it was confined to a batch or date of manufacture but it’s been going on far too long 😬
The 24HP Twin cylinder Briggs I had on my Craftsman lawn tractor wasn't any better...it managed to make it to 227 hours before it had a connecting rod part ways...that thing was a piece of crap from the start...never seemed like it had as much power as a 24HP engine should wasn't all that impressed with that lawn tractor.
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Don, Beauty a channel I just watched your video on, Using a nylon cord for a piston stop thank you for sharing.
Hey guys, I already knew from experience the piston wasn't moving but I took the head off to show the viewers what was really going on!
Of course theres the screwdriver in the spark plug hole trick, but i understand the visual aid of complete dissasembly
Thanks for taking the time to disassemble the engine. I so enjoyed how you quickly diagnosed the fast turning engine like a consummate professional.
I'm OCD with all my lawn equipment, i change my oil filters and plugs in my tractor and push mower at the beginning of the season. I use top shelf oil also. I also clean my equipment off as soon as im done mowing. I also do not eun this Garbage ethanol fuel. My motto is we work and pay way to much money for our tools and lawn equipment to just not take care of them. Another great video Dony, i really appreciate when you disassemble the engine to show what happened. Hope ya have a great weekend good Sir
All Fuel in ONtario including Shell Premium now has Ethanol.
@@gordbaker896 I live in Pennsylvania and the Majority of gas stations here sale Fuel that has Ethanol, so I buy canned fuel ethanol free VP. Its ridiculously priced, I pay a little of $40 for 2 gallons and for my 2cycles i use VP 40:1. I fix my own equipment when needed but really haven't had to because I do regular maintenance on my equipment
I'm in Middle Tennessee, I pay $5.28 (87)grade a gallon for pure gasoline.
After getting my first tractor mower used, a 2011 model, about 4 years ago, I discovered that changing the oil every year was very important. I do it at the beginning of mowing season. That with a new oil filter, and a new air filter because of all the dust from areas with little or no grass. Thanks for showing what not changing the oil annually in a Briggs, just like mine, will do. I also learned that changing the oil and filter once a year for low mileage vehicles is important, too, even though I drive less than 1,500 miles per year, because oil degrades with age. I never knew that before, after all the oil changes I've done over the years. I now know how to Winterize properly, too. That's for all small engine devices. Thanks for all the great advice, Don, and for videos like this!
Yeah, the journals on the crankshaft were good in the video according to Donny.
Excellent. Concise. Thorough. Enlightening.
This is a very informative channel. Your engine knowledge/diagnostic ability is enviable. I'm glad you can salvage so much from this mower.
The oil on that dipstick was unusually clean. I'll throw out a guess he ran it low on oil, the connecting rod blew, and then he changed the oil and refilled. Then he got a new fuel pump. These engines use some oil, and the pan is so small it doesn't take much loss to cause oil level to fall to dangerous levels.
Planned obsolescence. Neglected oil change intervals could play a contributing role. However, as you mentioned, it's a common problem with this engine. This common failure indicates poor design. Whether it's intentional or not is the question.
Not to mention the "springy thing" decompressor that flies off of the camshaft over time.
Always loved your videos, and your working mentality ❤ Thank you Don!
Sorry for late reply as I had not seen your message. Thank you for your support!
I agree with that sludge on the bottom, this wasn't getting regular oil changes. It has always amazed me how so many people never change the oil in their equipment. It was nice of you to not charge your customer for your time, in exchange for keeping the machine for parts/scrap. You should get some decent parts from the old engine, plus you can repower the tractor and make the money back, plus you have a happy customer for future business.
Been watching your videos for years and learn something every time.
Good call Donny! Autopsy videos are a great resource. Thanks!
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing this with us. I love that you take the time to show us stuff like this. And that you save what is salvageable. Both to help the customers and not filling up the landfill. Bravo 👍
Thanks for the video including the tear down. New parts are expensive, so salvage makes sense!
Good teardown, thanks for sharing 👍.
Elecric tractors and zero turns are stupid expensive. You are right in saying that gas tractors will be around quite a while.
Why not just remove the spark plug and turn the engine over? You'd be able to tell if the piston is moving.
He was probably 100 % sure that the engine had a broken connecting rod. So the video changed from being a diagnostic/repair video to a dismantle for parts video.
He had to gut the motor anyway
Agreed.
How important it the quality of the oil?
@@rk22cc VERY IMPORTANT. different oils have different characteristics. Some oils "Flow" well in colder temperatures but get too thin in higher temperatures. Some oils "Flow" AND lubricate in higher temperatures but are too thick for lower temperatures. ALWAYS use the manufacturer recommended oil weight. NEVER use Wal-Mart brand oil in your engine.
the fact the bolt was still in the c rod shows how poor quality it was, amazing how the crack was behind the motor out of all places amazing video
Great video. Thanks for the info. Sure learn a lot from your videos.
Thanks dony. Fun to watch!
Super video. Excellent tear down presentation.Good call on the cause being rod failure . BUT..... cylinder walls pristine, no piston scoring, crank journal perfect, wrist pin OK, cam lobes intact. All components depending on proper lubrication. Disagree with failure attributed to inadequate oil change maintenance. Connecting rod disintegrated; a component just along for the ride, so to speak; not actually requiring lubrication for itself.
Thanks for the teardown. Interesting
Always fun to investigate a blown engine. More people need to watch your video so they can see what happends when you do not service your mower. I just did one with bent push rods. The mower was being used on a lavender farm as a mule ,no mower deck. It was scrapped.
Great knowledge learned on all your videos..Keep it up Dony
👍👍👍.Thank you
Just curious why not throw in a new connecting rod , rebuild & sell a running mower? Dig all the videos. Excellent information!
The block was badly cracked. Not much of a way to repair a cracked block for long-term service.
Great video, thanks for sharing the engine split for each component...very comprehensive.
Do you recommend any engine flush to prevent sludge before using the new oil? I mean time to time only.
Change oil yearly with good quality oil no flush needed it will flush itself
@@joelmollenkopf3767 That's what I use to do every season, thanks for your tip.
The trade off has gotten me 3 chain saws, one _2000- concrete saw and lots of snowblowers and mowers. I always ask customers if they would ignore their cars like this regarding oil changes.
Good video thanks for sharing take care
Very Good Business Decision!!!!
Great Video Donny ! there is a channel called "I do cars" where this young man tears down all kinds of car and truck engines to see what caused them to fail. He usually doesn't get much to part out and sell.
True, and usually most of those engines failed due to lack of oil changes and generally poor maintenance.
Dony Boy, My question isn’t related to the subject matter in this video, but I’d like to ask you a question. First off I know I messed up, just trying to find out how bad. Ok better then a year ago at the end of using my agri fab leave vac for the year I did something stupid. I didn’t want to come back in the spring and once again have carb issues,so after running all the fuel out of the b&s motor, I pour a lot of Berryman b12 in the gas tank and pulled the rope starter in hopes of not having a gummed up carb in the spring. Well when I came back (after several months) all the oil in the motor had leaked out, I’m guessing the B12 treatment ate the gaskets, can you give me some advice on what I should/could possibly do now. In my mind it was a case of if a little is good a lot will be better, I know stupid stupid. Just trying to see how to proceed or should I just toss the motor. Anything help you ( or other you tubers) can provide would be greatly appreciated, I don’t know where to turn. Thank you.
I couldn’t even imagine owning a electric lawn mower let alone a lawn tractor. I know landscapers won’t like that at all
I guess I don't know about Canada but if say that's a long ways off in the US
True. But we may as well get ready for it, because we ultimately will be FORCED to go electric. Thanks Greta!!!!
Well that's a shame the engine blow up like that And all he had to do Change his oil Thank you for the video
Too easy to crank ... bad sign ! I'll have nightmare about that now :) ! Great job, thanks again !
I have an old flat head or L head, valve in head like 13 briggs 13.5? anyways, got it free, on a ride on mower, from like 2003. Needed a carb clean, no biggie, starts perfect, runs decent, but no matter the rpm, has a pop. little pops. Look into it, ok, valves not sealing perfect. lap the valves, new headgasket. Now the carburator adjustments work, as its not blowing compression back into the carb/intake, but it still pops. Is this normal for those old engines? As i said, runs mint, just the pop, or light miss is a bit annoying. flywheel key is fine, good spark plug coil looks good, cleaned the spots, plus flywheel. Spent a good minute wanting it to run perfect...because who wouldn't. But man it just wants to make the annoying noise.
Nice job 👍
Don't forget that new Fuel Pump! Good stuff to save with tons of others.
I suddenly remembered I need to change my oil.
😅
Another great video!
That's a shame- would be good to know if the oil was changed at least once per season, or if he otherwise went multiple seasons before changing it. Believe the maintenance cycle is pretty generous on these, at 50 hours in between oil changes...or otherwise 1 time per season, for a home owner 1-2 time per week use.
people love to neglect the oil never even check it. I mow a place weekly ish, had to fix up their ride on a bit to use it as its easier that way, tube battery ect.Anyways, it had about 100ml of oil...uh ok. Topped it off, take it out, starts great, then CLOUDS of smoke 2 seperate times, then it just chugged, ok weird. Maybe overfilled, but i check 2 3 times. get back after done, its WAY down. Ended up the headgasket was gone. They said they never noticed it smoke...ok. So it's been runniing on near no oil for? How long? quick job, headgasket, newplug as its petrified, runs like a champ, 0 smoke, starts run perfect. Doesn't burn a drop. funny how that can work. even flushed it out after aswell, try to get some of the compression gasses, fuel ect, out of the oil.
Nice video, I usually find the cam compression release broken in those engines. That old style was a good one. Is it worth putting a new engine in it? Thanks for the video.
Going out right now to change the oil in my X500 even though it’s the 2nd time this season.
Excellent video!
I have a LA125 - Glad this one isn't mine. Great video.
Yes indeed!
...great video Don....thanks for posting.....since the only apparent damage to the engine was a snapped connecting rod, why not just rebuild that engine?....or maybe
I missed something?... 🙂
@@boots7859 ...thanks....I did miss that....all the parts are probably worth more than a rebuild anyway... 🙂
Hey Donny, when taking the hood off of my JD tractor, I always forget to unplug the lights, until AFTER I have pulled the hood off.....lol It happens every time.
Awesome Danny keep it up 😊
I second the question for hours on engine. Love your vids Don
Great video . Yah it was spinning pretty freely . Seen bent rods a few times . Occasionally a snapped connecting rod . Great not to charge to get a free machine that might be refurbished later on for some $$
Good day Don Too bad about motor. Good video Thanks
How are the Commercial twin 23 HP Briggs holding up. I have a newer one, I change the oil every 50 hours, it’s clean when I change it. Thanks, Dave.
Thanks Dony
Great example of why we should do regular 50hr maintenance . Oil and grease is the cheapest thing you do to any rider.
And todays quality of riders we must do the maintenance.
Is there ever a point where you would just replace the connecting rod and put it all back together for a working mower for the customer or as a used mower sale? What would your bill be to do that?
He’d have to put it all in a new case too. Case was cracked under the starter.
you should have your own TV Show Like a 1 Hr special I would call it the the Small Engine Channel with Donny Boy On The cable Box I would personally watch your Show I love learning how to fix things from watching you :)
Hey Donyboy. Good video. Why wouldn't you replace the connecting rod and then sell the lawn tractor as a running machine? Thanks for sharing. 👍👍🍁
The block was severely cracked, behind where the starter is mounted.
Great video Donny! Thanks for posting. I've got an X-370 Deere with a failing ECU. Deere wants $330.00 for a new one, and they're only available at Deere. The ECU controls everything, and the mower won't run without it. Do you have any suggestions for an alternative? It's nuts how many mowers are going full electronic control, and when these electronic parts fail, they're stupid expensive.
Sorry but I do not have any alternative!
As good as the other components were, I would almost be tempted to replace the rod and put it back together if the block hadn't been cracked...what I would do, is stick another used engine/long block on that mower, and sell it....
great vidio sir thanks for sharing
Hello I’m new to the channel. Great video thanks for sharing
The manuals don't lie. Service intervals are there for a reason. Especially on air cooled small engines. You should have seen the oil I drained from a walk behind. Looked like gray colored milk.
Great video Dony.
Thanks 👍
You should have pulled the sparkplug and put a zip tie down the hole to see if piston is moving. Also look at that sludge. The customer TOTALLY changed the oil when it stopped working and then brought it to you
Dony, I was past your door the other day. Was tempted to stop and say hi. Keep up the good videos. Rick
Thanks Rick!
How I do it:
1) Check the oil
2) Put a pencil in the spark plug hole and spin the engine by hand and see if the piston moves
3) No movement equals blown connecting rod
Just had one this week. Customer had only 60 hours on Cub Cadet XT1 riding mower, three years of use. Never changed the oil. Brother in law changed the oil and did not tighten the oil filter enough and oil leaked out and pooched the engine. "Free" mower was the result.
Thanks Mike, I already knew from experience it was blown and went straight to disassembly.
Going outside now to change the oil on the John Deere 😊👍
So , good piston and bore showing no sign of piston bind , big end bearing journal similarly unmarked , what caused the con rod to break , any idea ?
Poor casting and or design
Donyboy will save time and money with these parts. And the mower will be fine, well, as soon as he brings a ready engine from storage.
Excellent
how much would you estimate the cost of repairing the JD lawn tractor with a new small block?
Just by looking at how that machine had been left out in the weather, you could tell the maintenance would be neglected too.
I cringe when i drive by the dealers and they leave all the new ones out in the weather, i think it sends the wrong message, but i agree this machine was neglected, at least put a cover on it.
At 5:04 in the video are those JD push mowers? What are they in for & will you be making a video on them? Thx in advance.
Good informatio, Thanks for bringing us along.
Bye for now, your new friend Ken
This might be a stupid question, but since everything else seemed undamaged could replacing the connecting rod be an cption?
The crankcase was cracked behind the starter so that was finished , with enough donor parts an engine could be re-birthed , a Franken-Briggs of sorts ;-)
@@Gordon_L Oh yeah I forgot about the cracked crankcase.
you could weld the block . i've even used jb weld to repair them . i'm guessing parts plus labor would've been too expensive .
@@Gordon_L have some fun with j-b weld.
That JD seat cover is worth some $$$ if it's fairly new.
Hmm, seemed to me like the only broken part was the connecting rod.
Is there a reason you didn’t replace it and put it back together?
How would the cost of that repair compare to a working unit of similar age?
Do you have a lot of parts for john deere
Thanks for the excellent video Donny. BTW, if the crankcase was NOT cracked, would you have replaced the connecting rod and rebuilt the engine?
Depends if the crankshaft and/or bore is damaged, cost of new/used conrod factors into it
@@offbeatwarble The video seemed to indicate that the cylinder was smooth and possibly that the crankshaft was OK too.
@@Shorty4808 yep comes down to cost of replacement part and labour. If it's your own machine and you're capable of doing it definitely worth it, not always the case for a shop though
First thought was hit a rock or pile of dirt. whacking out of time or break stuff.
Well at least you got part's for another repair job there Donny
Hey Dony..you don't have a spare engine laying around ? The mower looks to be in good shape might be worth saving to sell ..people love their John Deere's..lol..i did notice what was left of the connecting rod the bolt looked loose..i see this a lot..have a good day..cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Donyboy, I desperately need some help. Recently I purchased a Husqvarna riding mower from marketplace. My dilemma is that it doesn't won't to move. Could you please help me troubleshoot it. I can't afford anything new or anything used at this moment
I was hopping you were going to open it up
I think the gas tank is $300 US for a new one. They are labor intensive to remove.
What planet are you on???
@@circlepfarm9729 planet xepter of course.
Dony, what would a used engine cost?
Why scrap the lawnmower? Just slam on a second-hand Briggs & Stratton motor on it and keep moving.
If I come across an engine I will re-power it!
is there a reason why kolher recremens 15/50 synthic oil
Huh. Mine says regular 30 weight or just plain old 10w-30.
save the engine parts and repower the mower
Good video donnie.. poor quality is absolutely true!!
Why is there coppery color on the inside of the head when valve cover removed?
Are they banning petrol push mowers in canada?
Probably if we don't dump the current prime minister.
How many hours on this mower? Greetings from the Old Jarhead in WNC
Do you know how many hours were on that engine?
Go DBOY..Go...
Can you put a new or used engine on it and sell it
Definitely could.
I had to pull the head to prove the piston was not moving once
Then he said I guess they left the bolts loose
Lololo I started laughing 😂
lol I already knew it was blown!
I know you had a good idea the piston was not moving, but how come you didn't just pop the spark plug out to easily verify this fact??? Otherwise great job
The single cylinder Briggs engines are terrible. I have not seen a v-twin with any of the issues that the single experiences. The compression release on the cam and the connecting rods are their Achilles heal. I wish I could say it was confined to a batch or date of manufacture but it’s been going on far too long 😬
The 24HP Twin cylinder Briggs I had on my Craftsman lawn tractor wasn't any better...it managed to make it to 227 hours before it had a connecting rod part ways...that thing was a piece of crap from the start...never seemed like it had as much power as a 24HP engine should wasn't all that impressed with that lawn tractor.