I got that from Superior Metal Fabricators in Orlando. Talk to Buck Freeman. www.superiormetalfab.com/. You can drop my name if you want. Here is a video of Buck showing off his custom made grill trailer set-up. It will give you a good look at some of his capabilities... ua-cam.com/video/EsWsK6iiWTI/v-deo.html
Swapping out your cook top in flip flops, gotta be California . My cook top is not level, someone else installed it . I didn't notice anything about leveling, I'm guessing you already had a nice level platform so didn't have to check it . I enjoyed your video, your floors are killer, thanks for the video.
Hello @melindawallin3713, good guess but not California, I've been a Florida pretty much my whole life. But I'm confused by your question. If you mount a cook top in your kitchen counter, and if your kitchen counter is level, then your cook top will be level. If your counters aren't level, that is another problem, but still one that can be fixed. If you have a free standing range, then there are adjustable legs at the bottom that you can screw in or screw out to level it. Which one of these scenarios would describe your situation?
I believe most of them are a the same standard size, but check before you buy to make sure. You should be able to measure the exact dimensions of your counter top opening from below the cook top without having to remove the actual cook top.
I had to look it up because I believe that connection pipe came with the cook top. It's called CSST which stands for corrugated stainless steel tubing.
2:00 Biggest issue with this work looks like physical access to the fittings and elbow space to hold two wrenches. I have a tight set-up at home. I would be tempted to "break" that cabinet beam that separates top and bottom. Unless, you are skinny enough to slide your body through the lower cabinet open. An alternative is to "climb down into" the cooktop opening to get access, but you have to be a small person.
It may have looked tight but it was a lot more roomy than working on a car. I probably could have accessed the fitting through the opening in the countertop too, but with the drawers out, there was plenty of room below the cabinet.
Yes you should be able to hook it to a propane tank. You will need some different fittings for the gas lines in your cook top though. My cook top came with these fittings but I didn't use them because I was connecting it to natural gas. Check with your cook top manufacturer and see if you can get propane fittings for it.
@@LeeMcNeil thank You for giving following, I checked here they told me there's no cooktop that I can use a bottle 9kg with it? What do you think, I double checked another person said you can, I'm confused, it's an lpg cook top why it doesn't work with small 9kg and work with 45 kg, what's the difference?
@@yasminalalgeroiseau1125 I'm not sure but It might have something to do with the connection at the bottle or there might be restricted flow on the smaller bottle.
ok so this is a question that I have been trying to find out about but im getting so much contradictory info. Does a gas cooktop stove require ventiliation outside the house? From what im seeing here is you removed the ducking and downdraft under the cabinet and installed the new cooktop stove but your not venting the gas at all. I see you do have a top range to vent the smoke and greese up above the cabinet but these are pr imarely used for just smoke, but the gas doesn't need to be vented? In the old days, all of these cooktops had some kind of way to vent the carbon monoxyde and other harmful polutants outside the house.
The two reasons I can think of is 1) a gas cook top doesn't kick out nearly the level of BTU's that a gas water heater or furnace (both of which require exhaust venting) and 2) a gas cook top is considered a "monitored" appliance, which means you are typically present at the appliance while it's in use as opposed to a water heater or furnace.
I have a similar problem with the pipe dope and the nipple at the regulator, and too much dope at the flare union. To remove the cooktop (I'm remodeling the kitchen) I had to cut the gas line (yes, gas was off) and yank the top off. Now, I have to buy the new gas line and the regulator. Pipe dope is like concrete after 25 years I guess. Great video, and thank you!
Do NG cook top require a certain regulator ..I was gone order one however it doesn’t specify if it comes w a regulator..if it doesn’t , what regulator would I need
I think most new cooktops come with a new regulator. But if yours didn't come with one, you will have to do some research on your particular cooktop to find out what kind of regulator the manufacturer recommends.
0:01 **snickers** "UA-cams" I thought there was only one. Sorry I couldn't help chuckling right at the start. Thanks for the great info (and the chuckle).
In converting to propane, how do you remove the existing orifices without dropping them into body of cooktop. We know to use the 7mm socket but there is not much room to work to hold onto the existing orifice??
And these cooktops cost more than ranges. I don't' get that! I wanted a cooktop 17 years ago when we built the house, but cost was a factor that made us go with a range. Now it's remodel time, and I'm finally going to get my cooktop. I have to also change the cabinets, because there is nothing to set the cooktop on....so....it would have been cheaper in the long run to have sprung for the cooktop in the beginning. Good video!
I had the chance to get a free Viking range about ten years ago, from someone who was remodeling their kitchen (someone with a lot of money apparently). But I did not take it because I didn't want to rebuild the cabinets and countertops, and more importantly, I didn't want to lose the cabinet space. I probably should have taken it though. Those Vikings are nice!
It's a GE 30" cook top. It looks good new, but all of the lettering is fading and the knobs, which look like they are metal, are actually plastic and really susceptible to damage.
Spray some PB blaster on it an let it set a few hours and then see if you cane loosen it. If that doesn't work, use a hacksaw blade to cut the screw, or even the bracket.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING; GOOD JOB! EXEPT FOR THE SILICONE AROUND OUT SIDE THE SOTVE.. LATER WILL BE COME BAD.; PERHAPS IF YOU PUT IT IN THE "INSIDE. SIDE OF THE STOVE... IT WLL BE BETTER. 🤓
You could skip the caulk if you want but a silicone caulk is very heat resistant and will stay pretty clean. Or at least will clean up easily. And if it starts looking bad, then it's pretty easy to redo it. I would not use a latex caulk.
It's a GE 30" cook top. It looks good new, but all of the painted lettering comes off when you clean it and the knobs, which look like metal, are actually cheap plastic and are really susceptible to damage and melting from the heat of the stove. Would not recommend this top.
Please can you help me .. I installed new cooktop .. it has gas smell under cabinet .. I used tape not tread paste sealer .. is that could be the problem ? I will apreaciated your answer .. thanks 🙏
First things first, make sure you shut the gas off! Second, check for at all the joints in your supply line. All you need is a little bit of soapy water (you can use dish soap) and brush it onto each joint, then turn your gas back on. If you see any bubbles forming at any of the joints, that is where your leak is happening. And to answer your other question - yes, if you used tape instead of the paste thread sealant, that could be the problem. Teflon tape is effective but can be a little tricky to use. Get some thread sealant paste, remove all of the thread tape, then reseal each joint with paste. Let me know how it turns out for you.
At 9:01, is there any reason you didn't remove the old nipple and install the new safety valve directly into the old valve? I think installing a new coupler creates unnecessary complications. Good idea on using the square bracket to secure the cooktop. I don't see other ppl doing that but they should. Good job and thanks for sharing the video.
The makers of teflon paste for gas systems (like “Pro Dope” do not recommend using the paste on compression fittings. Best to check with a gas professional before doing it yourself with anything having to do with gas lines - too dangerous to take any risk as at all. I’m a DIY guy too but I will still call a pro and at least ask questions and due my research before doing anything with gas, water or electrical. For example, I did NOT know until watching others videos that I should not use teflon tape or paste on gas line compression fittings!
Yes I mentioned that in the video. I don't think putting pipe dope on the threads of a compression fitting will cause it to fail or leak, but it's not necessary.
Pretty good video. Like the "fragile" comment! One observation though is did you forget to or just not show that you checked for leaks at the cooktop regulator connection and not just at the gas shut off valve? Also on mine they reccomended aluminum heat tape on granite plus it came with foam tape to put around the granite that it sat so not to move around and seal. Additionaly it had tie down anchors vs straps. Either way both of ours worked just interesting on how each is different to install. Mine is a Bosh by the way.
You are absolutely correct, I did fail to test for leaks at the regulator. If I could, I would add a caption to the video at the point where I tested the connection to the gas supply for leaks, reminding people not to forget to test the regulator, but sadly UA-cam doesn't give you an option to do that. The only way to do it is to re-upload the video. I madee another video about how to build an interior brick veneer wall, and numerous people pointed out that the weight of the brick could pose problems if it were built over an elevated floor structure like a basement or a crawl space. I built mine over a concrete slab on grade, so I didn't even think about that. I'm going to do some research to see if there is some type of work around to add a caption.
I secured it to the counter top. I put straps on the cook top starting at 8.32 in the video and attach the straps to the cabinet at 12.42 in the video.
You were so consistent with the pipe sealant However, you omitted the sealant on the gas line at the valve One thing that makes me nervous was the design of the plastic inlet to the cooktop This seems that would be dangerous and unreliable years from now
This thing is made so cheap, I don't expect it to last 10 years anyway. The knobs, that look metal, are all plastic and will melt if you aren't careful. And the painted lettering on the stainless steel at the front has all wiped off, from cleaning it I guess.
I think Charles Dickens once wrote, "If the law supposes that, the law is an ass". They probably have a rule like that over here too, but I'm not a lawyer. If you do it yourself anyway, do they send the Plumbing Police out to your house?
@@LeeMcNeil You're correct, but if anything goes wrong, then the installation would be inspected in detail. An incorrectly fitted appliance could result in prosecution. However, if you then sell your house, then you must be able to produce certificates of compliance, issued by a registered fitter! As a buyer, it is one of the certificates that insurers insist on.
@@LeeMcNeil Well recollected. "If the law supposes that," said Mr. Bumble, squeezing his hat emphatically in both hands, "the law is a ass - a idiot. If that's the eye of the law, the law is a bachelor; and the worst I wish the law is, that his eye may be opened by experience - by experience". From "Oliver Twist".
He is not a gas engineer, that’s why you see so many mistakes in this video. The person doesn’t understand that a gas leak is no joke, he is risking his life, his households’ life, as well as his neighbours’ life…
As a Gas Engineer I can tell you that you have so many wrongs in this video; distance from the wall/shelf to the hob is wrong, distance to electric cable and the plug to the gas pipe is wrong, you suppose to purge the gas at the right amount after connection. Did you gas rate? No proper tightness test… How about testing safety devices? Did you read the Manufacturer’s Instructions for all of these? On top of all, are you a qualified gas engineer to do all these? Dangerous job! An example video for gas engineering students study for wrongful fitting.
That comment was a lot of complaining about what I did wrong, but said nothing specific, except that I need to be a gas engineer in order to safely install a gas cooktop. Which is hilariously wrong. This kitchen was remodeled 22 years ago. As part of the remodel, the plans showing the location of the cooktop, gas inlet and electrical connections were reviewed and approved by the fire marshal and all other AHJ's (which is an acronym here in the US we use in the construction industry for "Authorities Having Jurisdiction"), and all were inspected and approved during construction. So tell me specifically how you are able to watch a video and know what the distance is between the electrical cable and the gas outlet, or between the cooktop and the wall/shelf behind it? And even if you were correct about these things being too close to each other, why would the fire marshal, plans reviewers and all the other inspectors approve their locations during permitting and construction? And did you really just ask me if I read the installation instructions?
Thanks for staying with the task at hand and not trying to entertain the viewer.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing! I just bought a house with a 1970s cooktop and this video was so useful to learn how to install the upgrade.
Thank you, I'm glad it was helpful!
lol, i love that " fragile, my cooktop must be Italian"! haha
Good video! I will be replacing a cooktop soon. Where can I find a stainless back splash with the shelf such as you have in the video?
I got that from Superior Metal Fabricators in Orlando. Talk to Buck Freeman. www.superiormetalfab.com/. You can drop my name if you want.
Here is a video of Buck showing off his custom made grill trailer set-up. It will give you a good look at some of his capabilities...
ua-cam.com/video/EsWsK6iiWTI/v-deo.html
love the way u cook egg, very good video thanks
So helpful! Thank you :)
Swapping out your cook top in flip flops, gotta be California . My cook top is not level, someone else installed it . I didn't notice anything about leveling, I'm guessing you already had a nice level platform so didn't have to check it . I enjoyed your video, your floors are killer, thanks for the video.
Hello @melindawallin3713, good guess but not California, I've been a Florida pretty much my whole life. But I'm confused by your question. If you mount a cook top in your kitchen counter, and if your kitchen counter is level, then your cook top will be level. If your counters aren't level, that is another problem, but still one that can be fixed. If you have a free standing range, then there are adjustable legs at the bottom that you can screw in or screw out to level it. Which one of these scenarios would describe your situation?
Great Video.....Do ALL 36 inch cooktops have the same size cutouts? I would think so...but I need to be sure. THANKS
I believe most of them are a the same standard size, but check before you buy to make sure. You should be able to measure the exact dimensions of your counter top opening from below the cook top without having to remove the actual cook top.
Hi your video is very helpful. Can you tell me what’s the name of the yellow plastic connecting pipe to connect your cooker and gas inlet? Thank you
I had to look it up because I believe that connection pipe came with the cook top. It's called CSST which stands for corrugated stainless steel tubing.
Very clear instructions 👍
2:00 Biggest issue with this work looks like physical access to the fittings and elbow space to hold two wrenches.
I have a tight set-up at home. I would be tempted to "break" that cabinet beam that separates top and bottom.
Unless, you are skinny enough to slide your body through the lower cabinet open.
An alternative is to "climb down into" the cooktop opening to get access, but you have to be a small person.
It may have looked tight but it was a lot more roomy than working on a car. I probably could have accessed the fitting through the opening in the countertop too, but with the drawers out, there was plenty of room below the cabinet.
Hi Lee, thank You for this amazing video, can I use the regulator on gas bottle Only? Mine is connected to a gas bottle.
Yes you should be able to hook it to a propane tank. You will need some different fittings for the gas lines in your cook top though. My cook top came with these fittings but I didn't use them because I was connecting it to natural gas. Check with your cook top manufacturer and see if you can get propane fittings for it.
@@LeeMcNeil thank You for giving following, I checked here they told me there's no cooktop that I can use a bottle 9kg with it? What do you think, I double checked another person said you can, I'm confused, it's an lpg cook top why it doesn't work with small 9kg and work with 45 kg, what's the difference?
@@yasminalalgeroiseau1125 I'm not sure but It might have something to do with the connection at the bottle or there might be restricted flow on the smaller bottle.
ok so this is a question that I have been trying to find out about but im getting so much contradictory info. Does a gas cooktop stove require ventiliation outside the house? From what im seeing here is you removed the ducking and downdraft under the cabinet and installed the new cooktop stove but your not venting the gas at all. I see you do have a top range to vent the smoke and greese up above the cabinet but these are pr imarely used for just smoke, but the gas doesn't need to be vented? In the old days, all of these cooktops had some kind of way to vent the carbon monoxyde and other harmful polutants outside the house.
The two reasons I can think of is 1) a gas cook top doesn't kick out nearly the level of BTU's that a gas water heater or furnace (both of which require exhaust venting) and 2) a gas cook top is considered a "monitored" appliance, which means you are typically present at the appliance while it's in use as opposed to a water heater or furnace.
What was the model # of the old stove top I have the same one and i am having trouble finding the #
Sorry, but I do not have the model number of my old cook top.
I have a similar problem with the pipe dope and the nipple at the regulator, and too much dope at the flare union. To remove the cooktop (I'm remodeling the kitchen) I had to cut the gas line (yes, gas was off) and yank the top off. Now, I have to buy the new gas line and the regulator. Pipe dope is like concrete after 25 years I guess. Great video, and thank you!
Yeah it gets pretty much like glue after it sets for a long time.
Do NG cook top require a certain regulator ..I was gone order one however it doesn’t specify if it comes w a regulator..if it doesn’t , what regulator would I need
I think most new cooktops come with a new regulator. But if yours didn't come with one, you will have to do some research on your particular cooktop to find out what kind of regulator the manufacturer recommends.
Thank you. You make something that seems unmanageable manageable.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
0:01 **snickers** "UA-cams" I thought there was only one. Sorry I couldn't help chuckling right at the start. Thanks for the great info (and the chuckle).
In converting to propane, how do you remove the existing orifices without dropping them into body of cooktop. We know to use the 7mm socket but there is not much room to work to hold onto the existing orifice??
Sorry but I didn't convert mine to propane, so I don't have any advice. Maybe someone else here has the answer.
And these cooktops cost more than ranges. I don't' get that! I wanted a cooktop 17 years ago when we built the house, but cost was a factor that made us go with a range. Now it's remodel time, and I'm finally going to get my cooktop. I have to also change the cabinets, because there is nothing to set the cooktop on....so....it would have been cheaper in the long run to have sprung for the cooktop in the beginning. Good video!
I had the chance to get a free Viking range about ten years ago, from someone who was remodeling their kitchen (someone with a lot of money apparently). But I did not take it because I didn't want to rebuild the cabinets and countertops, and more importantly, I didn't want to lose the cabinet space. I probably should have taken it though. Those Vikings are nice!
What cooktop is that? Looks great.
It's a GE 30" cook top. It looks good new, but all of the lettering is fading and the knobs, which look like they are metal, are actually plastic and really susceptible to damage.
thank you Lee !
Cannot remove one screw from old cooktop. What should I do to remove frozen screw?
Spray some PB blaster on it an let it set a few hours and then see if you cane loosen it. If that doesn't work, use a hacksaw blade to cut the screw, or even the bracket.
what kind of coupling is that? The one I see at home depot or lowes for natural gas is the Black Iron.
It's the female to female coupling you put on to the gas valve. I only see the black iron coupling in the stores.
It's just a brass fitting. You can use a black iron fitting also.
THANK YOU FOR SHARING; GOOD JOB! EXEPT FOR THE SILICONE AROUND OUT SIDE THE SOTVE.. LATER WILL BE COME BAD.; PERHAPS IF YOU PUT IT IN THE "INSIDE. SIDE OF THE STOVE... IT WLL BE BETTER. 🤓
You could skip the caulk if you want but a silicone caulk is very heat resistant and will stay pretty clean. Or at least will clean up easily. And if it starts looking bad, then it's pretty easy to redo it. I would not use a latex caulk.
What brand cooktop is that? Do you like it?
It's a GE 30" cook top. It looks good new, but all of the painted lettering comes off when you clean it and the knobs, which look like metal, are actually cheap plastic and are really susceptible to damage and melting from the heat of the stove. Would not recommend this top.
Thank you Lee. What's the size of the old or the new stove?
Sorry for the late reply. I think it was a 30" GE cooktop.
@@LeeMcNeil Thank you Lee.
Please can you help me .. I installed new cooktop .. it has gas smell under cabinet .. I used tape not tread paste sealer .. is that could be the problem ? I will apreaciated your answer .. thanks 🙏
First things first, make sure you shut the gas off! Second, check for at all the joints in your supply line. All you need is a little bit of soapy water (you can use dish soap) and brush it onto each joint, then turn your gas back on. If you see any bubbles forming at any of the joints, that is where your leak is happening. And to answer your other question - yes, if you used tape instead of the paste thread sealant, that could be the problem. Teflon tape is effective but can be a little tricky to use. Get some thread sealant paste, remove all of the thread tape, then reseal each joint with paste. Let me know how it turns out for you.
@@LeeMcNeil i really thank you 🙏I apreciated your help .
I did all you said .. so far 3 days already and no complains from my costumer .. thank you ..
At 9:01, is there any reason you didn't remove the old nipple and install the new safety valve directly into the old valve? I think installing a new coupler creates unnecessary complications. Good idea on using the square bracket to secure the cooktop. I don't see other ppl doing that but they should. Good job and thanks for sharing the video.
I was having trouble getting the old nipple off, at least without damaging the threads.
Hi. I am trying to install our new cooktop but while it fits the
Uh oh, somebody's keyboard ran out of battery!
Good video today i received my gas stove but I don't know what is the function of electric cable. Please let me know thanks.
The electric cord is for the burner igniters, which are electric powered.
Brilliant
Bello
Safety valve? Going to take for ever to make noodles now.
The makers of teflon paste for gas systems (like “Pro Dope” do not recommend using the paste on compression fittings. Best to check with a gas professional before doing it yourself with anything having to do with gas lines - too dangerous to take any risk as at all. I’m a DIY guy too but I will
still call a pro and at least ask questions and due my research before doing anything with gas, water or electrical. For example, I did NOT know until watching others videos that I should not use teflon tape or paste on gas line compression fittings!
Yes I mentioned that in the video. I don't think putting pipe dope on the threads of a compression fitting will cause it to fail or leak, but it's not necessary.
Torque specifications for the gas line fittings: one grunt
rFsin(θ)=1 Grunt. Math checks out!
Idk hiw I gonna put mine
Pretty good video. Like the "fragile" comment! One observation though is did you forget to or just not show that you checked for leaks at the cooktop regulator connection and not just at the gas shut off valve? Also on mine they reccomended aluminum heat tape on granite plus it came with foam tape to put around the granite that it sat so not to move around and seal. Additionaly it had tie down anchors vs straps. Either way both of ours worked just interesting on how each is different to install. Mine is a Bosh by the way.
You are absolutely correct, I did fail to test for leaks at the regulator. If I could, I would add a caption to the video at the point where I tested the connection to the gas supply for leaks, reminding people not to forget to test the regulator, but sadly UA-cam doesn't give you an option to do that. The only way to do it is to re-upload the video. I madee another video about how to build an interior brick veneer wall, and numerous people pointed out that the weight of the brick could pose problems if it were built over an elevated floor structure like a basement or a crawl space. I built mine over a concrete slab on grade, so I didn't even think about that. I'm going to do some research to see if there is some type of work around to add a caption.
This is second video i see, where the gas stove is not secured to the table top. Why is that?
I secured it to the counter top. I put straps on the cook top starting at 8.32 in the video and attach the straps to the cabinet at 12.42 in the video.
Sir. You are using the cresant wrench the wrong way. J/S.
I can use one to hammer a nail if I need to. I'm not in a union.
You were so consistent with the pipe sealant However, you omitted the sealant on the gas line at the valve One thing that makes me nervous was the design of the plastic inlet to the cooktop This seems that would be dangerous and unreliable years from now
This thing is made so cheap, I don't expect it to last 10 years anyway. The knobs, that look metal, are all plastic and will melt if you aren't careful. And the painted lettering on the stainless steel at the front has all wiped off, from cleaning it I guess.
Ditch the regulator. Will boil water a lot faster. Not that sissy baby like flame with the regulator on.
For your information, in the UK any gas appliances can only be fitted (legally) by a registered gas fitter. DIY installations are forbidden.
I think Charles Dickens once wrote, "If the law supposes that, the law is an ass". They probably have a rule like that over here too, but I'm not a lawyer. If you do it yourself anyway, do they send the Plumbing Police out to your house?
@@LeeMcNeil You're correct, but if anything goes wrong, then the installation would be inspected in detail. An incorrectly fitted appliance could result in prosecution. However, if you then sell your house, then you must be able to produce certificates of compliance, issued by a registered fitter!
As a buyer, it is one of the certificates that insurers insist on.
@@LeeMcNeil Well recollected. "If the law supposes that," said Mr. Bumble, squeezing his hat emphatically in both hands, "the law is a ass - a idiot. If that's the eye of the law, the law is a bachelor; and the worst I wish the law is, that his eye may be opened by experience - by experience". From "Oliver Twist".
He is not a gas engineer, that’s why you see so many mistakes in this video.
The person doesn’t understand that a gas leak is no joke, he is risking his life, his households’ life, as well as his neighbours’ life…
replace electric cooktop
As a Gas Engineer I can tell you that you have so many wrongs in this video; distance from the wall/shelf to the hob is wrong, distance to electric cable and the plug to the gas pipe is wrong, you suppose to purge the gas at the right amount after connection. Did you gas rate?
No proper tightness test…
How about testing safety devices?
Did you read the Manufacturer’s Instructions for all of these?
On top of all, are you a qualified gas engineer to do all these?
Dangerous job!
An example video for gas engineering students study for wrongful fitting.
That comment was a lot of complaining about what I did wrong, but said nothing specific, except that I need to be a gas engineer in order to safely install a gas cooktop. Which is hilariously wrong.
This kitchen was remodeled 22 years ago. As part of the remodel, the plans showing the location of the cooktop, gas inlet and electrical connections were reviewed and approved by the fire marshal and all other AHJ's (which is an acronym here in the US we use in the construction industry for "Authorities Having Jurisdiction"), and all were inspected and approved during construction. So tell me specifically how you are able to watch a video and know what the distance is between the electrical cable and the gas outlet, or between the cooktop and the wall/shelf behind it? And even if you were correct about these things being too close to each other, why would the fire marshal, plans reviewers and all the other inspectors approve their locations during permitting and construction?
And did you really just ask me if I read the installation instructions?