They say you are never too old to learn. I am 60, and learning new stuff every day from you. Many thanks for your easy to follow instructions for everything I currently need to know. (I hadn't even heard of an Arduino until a few months ago surfing you tube!) Fascinating and my ebay bill is through the roof!! hahaha
Oh to be 61 again. I will be 68 in a couple of weeks and just started with Arduino. Built up a project that uses 2x shift registers, multiple switches and LEDs for my railway. Thank you for all your advice.
I graduated in Electronic Technology back in the late 60’s. Worked in the field initially but then got into management and my technical skills became outdated. Now I am long since retired and one of my hobbies is Model Railroad. I find your videos very easy to follow and I am learning a lot more than I ever thought I would. Electronics has really evolved. I remember breadboarding circuits at NAIT and it is all coming back to me. I look forward to using some of your projects to enhance my enjoyment of my RR improvements. By the way, I salvaged a couple of ATX Power Supplies from my Grandson’s old computers before they went to the recycle. One will be a portable power supply and the other will go under my RR to supply the +5 & +12 V for my enhancements. Thanks for all that.
Just want to thank you for what you're doing. I'm new to Arduino, it's been only about month that I started learning it, mostly from your channel. I think you're a great teacher, it's hard to find such comprehensive, laconic yet informative and solid tutorial video, in any area.
I've been a software developer for more than a decade and just starting to explore the hardware world. Your channel has been a great resource. Thank you for such clear, detailed explanations.
Thank you much for everything you do on this channel. For me, it is probably the best channel on Arduino and microcontroller development out there. You really help people grow, learn new skills and figure out their way into electronics. Your work is much appreciated.
thank you again Bill, a real teacher. I am interested in robotic arm electronics; prototyping, components and set up all electtronic components including software programing.
This is fantastic info. I’ve been building circuits since the final years of high school ( CEGEP ) in the ‘80s and this was a great walk through. I really like the test equipment section - yes a scope is the tool to have but very expensive to start out with, so a multimeter and logic probe are a very good start. Keep up the great work
This video is the best I have seen on the Internet. Video is, as always, excellent from the technical and didactic point of view. As a mechsnical engineer and teacher I recommend your Web site and videos to pupils. Best regards from Croatia! Kresimir Coric
Thanks Bill your order and method way of approaching project (explained here) has given me guidance into a better method of for myself.. Not being properly taught and coming from a construction background it have a tendency to try to put the cart before the horse.. I am so used to working in a field that I know very well that my frustration level can be high at times and my method a bit off..As always this old dog is bound and determined to learn new tricks.. thanks for the share my friend.. I hope things have calmed down to a dull roar over there again and that you had a good break.. Carry on and we will see you on the next DB-1 vid.
I have been using a 20 MHz scope for many years and just upgraded to a 200 Mhz Dual channel for around $360 US. Now granted the Oscilloscope at my previous job cost about $10,000 but your really don't need that for an Arduino putting out square waves in the KHz range, it has been a valuable tool. Enjoyed this video. I have a working prototype of a soda can crushing machine and the wires keep breaking off the breadboard that go to the stepper controller. I soldered an Arduino Nano to a prototype board that has the same pinouts as a solderless breadboard.
Really needed this lecture. Building a Model Train Controller with a Wemos Mini breadboard works great but in prototyping i make such messes I fry the board, create shorts and in general make a mess and All ICs are soldered so onece fried the whole board is wasted. Now i see the header types I can order, the gauge wire and wire wrap gauge to get neater looking and functional prototypes. I have one week to a deadline I was having bad dreams. Now if i can get the parts you showed us I know i can build a nice prototype and it will be safe and reliable. THANK YOU SO MUCH, Dennis
Nice overview - especially regarding the arduionos and pi's. I remember my old solderless breadboards from the 70's. Back when we might have 30-40 7400 series TTL parts. Thanks again.
Back again, going though all of your older videos and having a blast! In this video I found a few things I’m going to get or make. The Servo tester is one of them. Thanks as always for being a great teacher. This old dog has learned a few tricks today 🙂
I'm surprised there was no mention of a variety of perfboard that's quite popular here in the UK, called stripboard (or Veroboard, which was a trade name). As the name suggests this consists of rows of copper strips, 1/10th inch apart, and slightly less than that wide, with lots of holes drilled of course or it wouldn't be perfboard! It means that if you can arrange your prototype so that most connections run parallel to the strips then you don't need any wires in that direction, you only need wires to jump between strips. You can use a Dremel to cut tracks if you want to break one strip into sections - this also makes soldering easier since the long strip wants to conduct the heat away. Creating the optimal stripboard layout is an artform in its own right... :) Also I think a good example looks a lot neater than the mass of wires or huge blobs of solder I see with the pinboard style. Unfortunately most easily available stripboard is low quality phenolic, but it works ok as long as it doesn't get hot.
Είσαι εξαιρετικός. Μπράβο σου. Ακόμη καί εγώ πού δεν γνωρίζω καλά αγγλικά καταλαβαίνω πολλά πράγματα από τα άριστα video σου. Αγαπημένη διαδικτυακή φυσιογνωμία.
Excellent advice, thanks Andrea! Just note that you have 5 pins coming out from the top of the Pro Mini, not being on the two long rows along the sides. 5 female-to-male Dupont cables should be able to take care of that, connecting these to the spare screw terminals.
I don't know anything about electronics but I want to learn about everything related to designing and creating an arduino UNO or whatever it takes. I'll find some videos to watch so I completely understand what Arduino needs to perform.
This gentleman explains everything very easily, without patronising you, His Videos are a must watch for me now, as I am learning all about the Arduino. I am a Mechanical Enginner by trade, but now disability has forced me to go small, and Arduinos fit the Bill!!
I see at 14:18 that you're holding a YWRobot Breadboard Power Supply Module. I found with the units I ordered that the '5v terminal' was not delivering 5v for any supplied voltages above about 6v. So a 9v or 12v power supply would deliver 1v less at the supposed '5v out terminal'. This could fry your SBC. (Whereas the 3.3v would always deliver 3.3v regardless of the power pack voltage input. Something to be mindful off..)
Oh, ZIF sockets can be a very useful addition - "zero insertion force" - they cost a little more but if you have a project where you replacing IC's quite a bit they're very handy.
I believe if you sold kits to go along with your classes you get alot of good sales, let me know when i can purchase. I appreaceate all the video's ive seen so far thank you!
That was very illuminating. I would be very interested to see how you drill and tap the holes in the acrylic bases that you use please because it seems to me to be fraught with problems such as marking the spot for drilling as a centre punch is likely to damage the acrylic sheet.
@Daza - thanks for the reply. What I am trying to do is attach 3 mm threaded standoffs to support the Arduino and other boards to an Acrylic base, just as in the Robot build. The difficulty is not drilling the holes, which necessarily needs to be done slowly in incremental steps of drill size, but the more important part of marking out and drilling the pilot hole in the right place, which needs a centre to prevent the drill bit from moving off centre.
@@charlesarnold4963 , i see , i would usualy use a pair of compasses to scribe or a center punch, i checked google and many also recommend using a hot soldering iron for acrylic, HTH
@@charlesarnold4963 another way is to drill right though and use the threaded standoffs in reverse ie. add a bolt or nut to the bottom/underside right through the bottom/underside of the base, i use this method when attaching pcbs and motherboards to cases and project boxes, HTH
I’m late to the party, but there are self-centering bits that have a conical collar to center the actual bit in the hole. Or a sharp set of center punch can make an accurate mark without a lot of force. Start the whole with a small diameter bit to keep it from wandering. I *think* the 135 degree bits will work better for enlarging the hole. Option 3 is to use a plunge router with an endmill bit to just cut straight down. There are lots of machining ways to do this if you look around!
The first arduino protoshield you showed (got it in my beginner kit), I wonder if there are any schematics available online, because even after many multimeter beeping tests, there are a couple of thing I still haven't figured out, and there's very little documentation so far as it goes. Basicly, I plan on soldering some pins on the middle portion along with the lcd display dedicated section, a potentiometer for contrast... I could go on an on. (One problem is that on the slot dedicated for the lcd 1602, the pin dedicated for the cathode of the backlight K isn't connected to ground, which is very bizarre.)
try Google Images , i often find schematics there, tip, filter the images to ones with high pixel density, not sure what question your asking about soldering and 1602 ? HTH
I was up at 2:30 am doing just this burned up a power supply roasted a 5 volt relay remade the whole ir interrupt finally got it working around 7:30 am it was a full day😀
Hey all, Over the last couple of weeks there has been some discussion about creating a forum for the DroneBot Workshop. Bill seems pretty busy making new content so I though that we could start a reddit forum at www.reddit.com/r/DroneBotWorkshop . Bill, Please let me know if you want to be a moderator or want to move the discussion to a proper forum. I like your channel and would like to gauge the value of a discussion platform to other viewers.
One tip I would like to share ... NEVER hook up an external power supply to your Arduino, or any thing connected to it, while it's plugged into your computer e,g, via USB cable! I fried my motherboard in this way.
Looks like my setup is almost complete. I already have a mostly complete screwdriver set, a once sharp swiss army knife, a pair of pliers whose jaws almost line up and a hammer that is in a love-hate relationship with its handle. Good thing I'm not married so there is nobody around to protect my poor wallet from what I'm about to do to it.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
They say you are never too old to learn. I am 60, and learning new stuff every day from you. Many thanks for your easy to follow instructions for everything I currently need to know. (I hadn't even heard of an Arduino until a few months ago surfing you tube!) Fascinating and my ebay bill is through the roof!! hahaha
This comment brought me great joy and insight into my future life! haha are you still tinkering?!
Hey grandpa how's your day??
Hey Mickey you arent old !! I am 61....
Oh to be 61 again. I will be 68 in a couple of weeks and just started with Arduino. Built up a project that uses 2x shift registers, multiple switches and LEDs for my railway. Thank you for all your advice.
Appreciate sir..... that you keep on learning new things day by day being at the age of 60....
That is quite motivational.....
I graduated in Electronic Technology back in the late 60’s. Worked in the field initially but then got into management and my technical skills became outdated. Now I am long since retired and one of my hobbies is Model Railroad. I find your videos very easy to follow and I am learning a lot more than I ever thought I would. Electronics has really evolved. I remember breadboarding circuits at NAIT and it is all coming back to me. I look forward to using some of your projects to enhance my enjoyment of my RR improvements. By the way, I salvaged a couple of ATX Power Supplies from my Grandson’s old computers before they went to the recycle. One will be a portable power supply and the other will go under my RR to supply the +5 & +12 V for my enhancements. Thanks for all that.
Just want to thank you for what you're doing. I'm new to Arduino, it's been only about month that I started learning it, mostly from your channel. I think you're a great teacher, it's hard to find such comprehensive, laconic yet informative and solid tutorial video, in any area.
I've been a software developer for more than a decade and just starting to explore the hardware world. Your channel has been a great resource. Thank you for such clear, detailed explanations.
Thank you much for everything you do on this channel. For me, it is probably the best channel on Arduino and microcontroller development out there. You really help people grow, learn new skills and figure out their way into electronics. Your work is much appreciated.
thank you again Bill,
a real teacher.
I am interested in robotic arm electronics; prototyping, components and set up all electtronic components including software programing.
Watching patiently for any information on jumper-wire resistance needs
iam 67 and i love this channel
This is fantastic info. I’ve been building circuits since the final years of high school ( CEGEP ) in the ‘80s and this was a great walk through. I really like the test equipment section - yes a scope is the tool to have but very expensive to start out with, so a multimeter and logic probe are a very good start. Keep up the great work
You are the first person I've seen using an ESD wrist strap. Kudos to you. Although, it does need to be tighter.
my one is a wireless "live strong" one, saw it on the Verge so it must be true
This video is the best I have seen on the Internet. Video is, as always, excellent from the technical and didactic point of view.
As a mechsnical engineer and teacher I recommend your Web site and videos to pupils.
Best regards from Croatia!
Kresimir Coric
Thanks Bill your order and method way of approaching project (explained here) has given me guidance into a better method of for myself.. Not being properly taught and coming from a construction background it have a tendency to try to put the cart before the horse.. I am so used to working in a field that I know very well that my frustration level can be high at times and my method a bit off..As always this old dog is bound and determined to learn new tricks.. thanks for the share my friend.. I hope things have calmed down to a dull roar over there again and that you had a good break.. Carry on and we will see you on the next DB-1 vid.
I have been using a 20 MHz scope for many years and just upgraded to a 200 Mhz Dual channel for around $360 US. Now granted the Oscilloscope at my previous job cost about $10,000 but your really don't need that for an Arduino putting out square waves in the KHz range, it has been a valuable tool. Enjoyed this video. I have a working prototype of a soda can crushing machine and the wires keep breaking off the breadboard that go to the stepper controller. I soldered an Arduino Nano to a prototype board that has the same pinouts as a solderless breadboard.
Really needed this lecture. Building a Model Train Controller with a Wemos Mini breadboard works great but in prototyping i make such messes I fry the board, create shorts and in general make a mess and All ICs are soldered so onece fried the whole board is wasted. Now i see the header types I can order, the gauge wire and wire wrap gauge to get neater looking and functional prototypes. I have one week to a deadline I was having bad dreams. Now if i can get the parts you showed us I know i can build a nice prototype and it will be safe and reliable. THANK YOU SO MUCH, Dennis
Nice overview - especially regarding the arduionos and pi's. I remember my old solderless breadboards from the 70's. Back when we might have 30-40 7400 series TTL parts. Thanks again.
thanks Bill always delivering the best and relevant electronics ... take five 5 Stars.
Back again, going though all of your older videos and having a blast! In this video I found a few things I’m going to get or make. The Servo tester is one of them. Thanks as always for being a great teacher. This old dog has learned a few tricks today 🙂
I'm surprised there was no mention of a variety of perfboard that's quite popular here in the UK, called stripboard (or Veroboard, which was a trade name). As the name suggests this consists of rows of copper strips, 1/10th inch apart, and slightly less than that wide, with lots of holes drilled of course or it wouldn't be perfboard! It means that if you can arrange your prototype so that most connections run parallel to the strips then you don't need any wires in that direction, you only need wires to jump between strips. You can use a Dremel to cut tracks if you want to break one strip into sections - this also makes soldering easier since the long strip wants to conduct the heat away. Creating the optimal stripboard layout is an artform in its own right... :) Also I think a good example looks a lot neater than the mass of wires or huge blobs of solder I see with the pinboard style. Unfortunately most easily available stripboard is low quality phenolic, but it works ok as long as it doesn't get hot.
Είσαι εξαιρετικός. Μπράβο σου.
Ακόμη καί εγώ πού δεν γνωρίζω καλά αγγλικά καταλαβαίνω πολλά πράγματα από τα άριστα video σου.
Αγαπημένη διαδικτυακή φυσιογνωμία.
Man, do I love your channel and presentation ! Thanks for all the very useful videos.
Stunning work
As usual, a great video! I learned so much ! Thank you ! 🙏🏻
21:33 the arduino nano screw shield works fine for the pro mini you will just have 3 extra unused screw terminals on each side
Excellent advice, thanks Andrea!
Just note that you have 5 pins coming out from the top of the Pro Mini, not being on the two long rows along the sides.
5 female-to-male Dupont cables should be able to take care of that, connecting these to the spare screw terminals.
I love your content I watch it at 2x speed because the information is so seamlessly explained. Please make more videos about building robots!
Fantastic video! The best primer video I've seen on the topic, by far! Thank you!
Thank you Sir, that helped a lot! So much little and bigger things in the whole process, which an untrained eye, like mine, doesn't see before.
A great survey of materials and ideas. Thank you!
Great video today. Quite a few tips and trix I have not thought of. Very helpfull.
It was great love your homemade stuff, great vid thanks
Thanks so much for your nice overview, Bill!
Very useful video 👍 very good
Thanks for this video, I'm just starting our, so it is ideal.
Thank you for the great video: I will store it in my playlist and go back to it when needed. :) :)
every video by this guy is great
I don't know anything about electronics but I want to learn about everything related to designing and creating an arduino UNO or whatever it takes. I'll find some videos to watch so I completely understand what Arduino needs to perform.
This gentleman explains everything very easily, without patronising you, His Videos are a must watch for me now, as I am learning all about the Arduino. I am a Mechanical Enginner by trade, but now disability has forced me to go small, and Arduinos fit the Bill!!
if i ever had a real dad, he would in DroidBot's image.
awesome. thanks. great videos.
Great video. You have saved me a whole lot of time and frustration.
I see at 14:18 that you're holding a YWRobot Breadboard Power Supply Module. I found with the units I ordered that the '5v terminal' was not delivering 5v for any supplied voltages above about 6v. So a 9v or 12v power supply would deliver 1v less at the supposed '5v out terminal'. This could fry your SBC. (Whereas the 3.3v would always deliver 3.3v regardless of the power pack voltage input. Something to be mindful off..)
Thank you
Oh, ZIF sockets can be a very useful addition - "zero insertion force" - they cost a little more but if you have a project where you replacing IC's quite a bit they're very handy.
Almost as handy as having a magic smoke injection device, to restore the ICs!
Great beginners video
This is very helpful, Bill, thank you once again!
Thanks!
Thanks to you as well Victor!
Great lesson, thanks! 👏
Great presentation. Good tips and tricks. I subed looking forward to more.
such a helpful channel! thank you so much
Super. Very informative.
useful as usual, thank you
Thanks for the tip about rails being split - I thought I bought trash!
Be good to get some hints as to names of parts and resellers.
I believe if you sold kits to go along with your classes you get alot of good sales, let me know when i can purchase. I appreaceate all the video's ive seen so far thank you!
Waiting for this..
That was very illuminating. I would be very interested to see how you drill and tap the holes in the acrylic bases that you use please because it seems to me to be fraught with problems such as marking the spot for drilling as a centre punch is likely to damage the acrylic sheet.
try using a wood spade bit and WD40
@Daza - thanks for the reply. What I am trying to do is attach 3 mm threaded standoffs to support the Arduino and other boards to an Acrylic base, just as in the Robot build. The difficulty is not drilling the holes, which necessarily needs to be done slowly in incremental steps of drill size, but the more important part of marking out and drilling the pilot hole in the right place, which needs a centre to prevent the drill bit from moving off centre.
@@charlesarnold4963 , i see , i would usualy use a pair of compasses to scribe or a center punch, i checked google and many also recommend using a hot soldering iron for acrylic, HTH
@@charlesarnold4963 another way is to drill right though and use the threaded standoffs in reverse ie. add a bolt or nut to the bottom/underside right through the bottom/underside of the base, i use this method when attaching pcbs and motherboards to cases and project boxes, HTH
I’m late to the party, but there are self-centering bits that have a conical collar to center the actual bit in the hole.
Or a sharp set of center punch can make an accurate mark without a lot of force. Start the whole with a small diameter bit to keep it from wandering. I *think* the 135 degree bits will work better for enlarging the hole.
Option 3 is to use a plunge router with an endmill bit to just cut straight down.
There are lots of machining ways to do this if you look around!
hey Bob , everything ok ? we miss your thursday-video ................
You've got lots of cool toys. Can I come live at your house?
Can you make ladar image for a3D printer
iam from uk please when saying sol-der we owe the langue it is solder as in soler der
Have you done or planning to do a multicamera security system with Arduino, Raspberry PI4, STM32 or ESP32? Thanks.
Can we get a video on how to make a multimeter?
yea
Thanks for the video
Anyone know what is the software used for virtual demonstration in this video
Great video. Who makes that multi meter?
He he he I may not know how to write complex code but I do know when it comes to motors it always hitches up the project it just does 😁
The first arduino protoshield you showed (got it in my beginner kit), I wonder if there are any schematics available online, because even after many multimeter beeping tests, there are a couple of thing I still haven't figured out, and there's very little documentation so far as it goes.
Basicly, I plan on soldering some pins on the middle portion along with the lcd display dedicated section, a potentiometer for contrast... I could go on an on.
(One problem is that on the slot dedicated for the lcd 1602, the pin dedicated for the cathode of the backlight K isn't connected to ground, which is very bizarre.)
try Google Images , i often find schematics there, tip, filter the images to ones with high pixel density, not sure what question your asking about soldering and 1602 ? HTH
Sir how much load a relay module can bear??
hi sirr make series of videos on ESP8266 module ,,,IOT related projects
PLEASE, maybe ?
Great video for beginners. Thanks!
Do you know of any documentation about the sensor shield v5? Thanks
google ?
@@DazzaDirect I already searched a lot, and couldn't find anything but photos. No schematics or text docs. I couldn't find any manufacturer either.
@@cebas42 raw.githubusercontent.com/DFRobot/DFRobotMediaWikiImage/580ce418811f864ff8b57dce1611a8d4cf26f5ed/Image/DFR0015_XBeeShield_SCH%20(1).png
@@cebas42 ua-cam.com/video/ZBEff-y9314/v-deo.html
I was up at 2:30 am doing just this burned up a power supply roasted a 5 volt relay remade the whole ir interrupt finally got it working around 7:30 am it was a full day😀
Hey all,
Over the last couple of weeks there has been some discussion about creating a forum for the DroneBot Workshop. Bill seems pretty busy making new content so I though that we could start a reddit forum at www.reddit.com/r/DroneBotWorkshop .
Bill,
Please let me know if you want to be a moderator or want to move the discussion to a proper forum. I like your channel and would like to gauge the value of a discussion platform to other viewers.
Awww!...You forgot "Vero" board, how could you forget the first hobby proto board!.....great vid
I'm getting lots of video and audio glitches on this. :( Flawless tuition though! :)
Its fine for me.
One tip I would like to share ... NEVER hook up an external power supply to your Arduino, or any thing connected to it, while it's plugged into your computer e,g, via USB cable! I fried my motherboard in this way.
learn electronics and learn real English pronounced very well, thank you very much.
I wish you were my neighbor.
everything except a good bread board
Hangon we need to stop the video and put those missing pliers back on the shadow board please
please blink your eyes!!
Looks like my setup is almost complete. I already have a mostly complete screwdriver set, a once sharp swiss army knife, a pair of pliers whose jaws almost line up and a hammer that is in a love-hate relationship with its handle.
Good thing I'm not married so there is nobody around to protect my poor wallet from what I'm about to do to it.
The English pronunciation of the word spelt solder, is solder not bloody sodder!
40 minute lesson with invaluable information and this is your take on that? You poor soul.