Hi, I love your work. I have a fiberglass buggy with and ecotec. I am looking at this setup but am concerned as I am probably only 1500-1600 pounds. Should I be using smaller bore cylinders for both the clutch and brake? Clutch is Kennedy stage 2 with kushlock. Brakes are disc all around, 2 piston all around.
I'm using 3/4" bore front and rear. My fronts are 2 piston and rears are 4 piston. My brakes are super sensitive. So I would say yes, probably go with the smaller bore if you can. Although I think on these 3/4" is as small as they go. But I might be wrong. But it's not undrivable, they just start grabbing as soon as you hit the pedal.
Hi, did the 5:1 wind up being the right choice? I'm building a non power setup, it will be about 1900 lbs total and I need reverse mount. Would you recommend this?
Great Video! is it possible to show more detail of your steering shaft as it runs above the pedal/master cylinders? I'm looking for ideas for a similar problem in my bug using the same pedals.
Sure, in the next couple videos I should be working on the front suspension of the new chassis. I'll try to add a snippet noting the clearance needed for the steering. When I do that I'll highlight how tight it was on this baja.
Yeah, for the front and back. Run a single line near the axle, then put in a T and go to the calipers from there. If possible keep them equal lengths after the T. If you are using a 2 or 10psi pressure valve put it in the single line. Good Luck!
You need to become an Amazon affiliate and start posting links in your videos description to the parts you show us in the videos. It'll help pay for some of this stuff. I do anywhere between $50 - $200 a month doing that. It cost the viewer nothing but a click. You basically get a commission for any sales that happen within 24 hours of them clicking on your links.
Thanks for the tip dude. The channel is still new to me and I've been really trying to better the filming and videos at this point. But I will look into this.
Hey Mike (now I know your name isn't Doug's Dad) great tour of your work area's , just wanted to let you know I really enjoy your videos, your work is super quality, I have a Manx Buggy and a 74 Baja and like to do my own work although haven't taken them to quite the extreme you have. I want to start doing a little welding and wanted to know if I could do the welding you have been doing with 110 volts, and does your machine do both tig and meg. thanks
Mike Black, I do most of my work with two welders. The flux core welder is a 120v and the Tig welder is 240v. They are both Lincoln Electric. The tig welder speaks for itself, that thing is a beast and will weld anything I bring into the garage. The flux core welder is a little more temperamental. Most of my chassis is welded with the flux core, and it is more than capable. However you need to consider a few things. If you're welding 1/8-3/16 like you will encounter on a chassis you will be at the limits of the welder. 1. You need to be on a strong circuit, not all outlets are created equal! 15-20 amps is important but really you need to test the circuit with the welder, you can tell if it can feed the current you need or not. 2. Either plug into the outlet directly, or have a short heavy gauge extension cord. Small gauge extension cords will take away current and the welds will be cold. 3. You need to practice with the welder and get to know it. This info will let you know by feel if you have the needed current and how the welds are going. So to answer your question, yes. You can do most of this with a 120 volt flux core. I recommend you stay away from mig on 120 volt. Flux core has reverse polarity and welds hotter. I convert mine to mig for thin bodywork. But all the chassis welding I did on this is with flux core. I only really use the tig for aluminum or if I need to be really clean. Remember roll bars and suspension is critical welds, so practice a lot before you dive into it! Good luck my friend, thanks for the kind words on my videos. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask. That's why I created this channel.
I really need help. I asked on the lotus forums and got shit on.... I would like to run manual brakes in my Lotus esprit and I have less room than you do in the bug. I wanted to know what your pedal assembly felt like and what brakes you are running.
The pedal assembly is great, very solid, good construction. Mine is the short throw to save on room. I thought that might be a problem as you have less leverage but it's not. I have two piston calipers up front and four piston calipers in the rear. I thought that might be a problem but with the balance bar you can easily adjust for the difference. Currently I have the 3/4" bore on the masters but might go down to 5/8" because right now you barely depress the pedal and it's already engaging the brakes. Hope that helps.
Awesome! I can say now that I've driven the bug around a little that having the balance bar (and adjusting knob) and the cutting brakes has made the brakes very "tuneable". Have a great day.
Great video! Is there only was line out on master? I was wonder how you split the brake lines for left and right calipers? Thanks
You need to add a "T" somewhere to split it.
Thanks for making this video.
Hi, I love your work. I have a fiberglass buggy with and ecotec. I am looking at this setup but am concerned as I am probably only 1500-1600 pounds. Should I be using smaller bore cylinders for both the clutch and brake? Clutch is Kennedy stage 2 with kushlock. Brakes are disc all around, 2 piston all around.
I'm using 3/4" bore front and rear. My fronts are 2 piston and rears are 4 piston. My brakes are super sensitive. So I would say yes, probably go with the smaller bore if you can. Although I think on these 3/4" is as small as they go. But I might be wrong.
But it's not undrivable, they just start grabbing as soon as you hit the pedal.
How you choose the bore sz..is it different for the front and the rear?
Hi, did the 5:1 wind up being the right choice? I'm building a non power setup, it will be about 1900 lbs total and I need reverse mount. Would you recommend this?
Yeah, the 5:1 on this is really good. The clutch requires a little force, but the brakes feel just about right.
Great Video! is it possible to show more detail of your steering shaft as it runs above the pedal/master cylinders? I'm looking for ideas for a similar problem in my bug using the same pedals.
Sure, in the next couple videos I should be working on the front suspension of the new chassis. I'll try to add a snippet noting the clearance needed for the steering. When I do that I'll highlight how tight it was on this baja.
I recently bought the same set up. Noticed one port for front and rear. For the front do you just T the line and beach off to each caliper hose ?
Branch**
Yeah, for the front and back. Run a single line near the axle, then put in a T and go to the calipers from there. If possible keep them equal lengths after the T. If you are using a 2 or 10psi pressure valve put it in the single line. Good Luck!
You need to become an Amazon affiliate and start posting links in your videos description to the parts you show us in the videos. It'll help pay for some of this stuff. I do anywhere between $50 - $200 a month doing that. It cost the viewer nothing but a click. You basically get a commission for any sales that happen within 24 hours of them clicking on your links.
Thanks for the tip dude. The channel is still new to me and I've been really trying to better the filming and videos at this point. But I will look into this.
Hey Mike (now I know your name isn't Doug's Dad) great tour of your work area's , just wanted to let you know I really enjoy your videos, your work is super quality, I have a Manx Buggy and a 74 Baja and like to do my own work although haven't taken them to quite the extreme you have. I want to start doing a little welding and wanted to know if I could do the welding you have been doing with 110 volts, and does your machine do both tig and meg. thanks
Mike Black, I do most of my work with two welders. The flux core welder is a 120v and the Tig welder is 240v. They are both Lincoln Electric. The tig welder speaks for itself, that thing is a beast and will weld anything I bring into the garage. The flux core welder is a little more temperamental. Most of my chassis is welded with the flux core, and it is more than capable. However you need to consider a few things. If you're welding 1/8-3/16 like you will encounter on a chassis you will be at the limits of the welder.
1. You need to be on a strong circuit, not all outlets are created equal! 15-20 amps is important but really you need to test the circuit with the welder, you can tell if it can feed the current you need or not.
2. Either plug into the outlet directly, or have a short heavy gauge extension cord. Small gauge extension cords will take away current and the welds will be cold.
3. You need to practice with the welder and get to know it. This info will let you know by feel if you have the needed current and how the welds are going.
So to answer your question, yes. You can do most of this with a 120 volt flux core. I recommend you stay away from mig on 120 volt. Flux core has reverse polarity and welds hotter. I convert mine to mig for thin bodywork. But all the chassis welding I did on this is with flux core. I only really use the tig for aluminum or if I need to be really clean. Remember roll bars and suspension is critical welds, so practice a lot before you dive into it!
Good luck my friend, thanks for the kind words on my videos. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask. That's why I created this channel.
Very helpful thank you
I really need help. I asked on the lotus forums and got shit on.... I would like to run manual brakes in my Lotus esprit and I have less room than you do in the bug. I wanted to know what your pedal assembly felt like and what brakes you are running.
The pedal assembly is great, very solid, good construction. Mine is the short throw to save on room. I thought that might be a problem as you have less leverage but it's not. I have two piston calipers up front and four piston calipers in the rear. I thought that might be a problem but with the balance bar you can easily adjust for the difference. Currently I have the 3/4" bore on the masters but might go down to 5/8" because right now you barely depress the pedal and it's already engaging the brakes.
Hope that helps.
HEY I WANT TO KNOW THAT DOES WE CAN USE BALANCE BAR FOR FRONT TWO WHEELS TO LOCK ONE AT SINGLE TIME.
No, I don't think the balance bar will do that. For that I recommend a cutting brake.
My question was answered on the pedal show and tell, about the balance bar
Awesome! I can say now that I've driven the bug around a little that having the balance bar (and adjusting knob) and the cutting brakes has made the brakes very "tuneable". Have a great day.
this video seems to have extra volume i hav3e the sound turned well down lol
Music👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻