@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller it made me subscribe dude. You're a man that makes sense, too much cost in all the extra, fiddly bits, no need. It's about enjoying the hobby, without the wife divorcing me, lol.
Very useful video. My father was a shunter, so making this and using it on a Ruston and Hornsby red diesel shunter (like the one he drove) will be perfect!
That is a very handy and simple tip . Thank you for posting this video on what is a vital tool for a model railway layout . I was actually looking to buy one from somewhere now i won't have to . Cheers !
Great video James a further development on the shunters pole we soldered a brass paddle to the wire so when you put the shunter pole in between the wagons the paddle lifts the hooks using the part that hangs down below the D bar works a treat keep modeling and stay safe
That's a really good idea Andy. Thanks for the comment. I hope others read it and make use of that suggestion as it would definitely help people using tension lock couplings.
Thanks Matt. It's just 1mm steel wire. I've had it around for years so can't remember where I bought it from but a paperclip can be bent to shape and used too and it works just as well.
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller Arh that's a good idea and I could use the a paper clip I guess. I do use a dentist tool to uncouple and works ok but I'm wondering whether your design works better.
Great layout James and interesting video. The grime effect you have achieved around the track work looks brilliant and highly effective. Very nice yard. I’m modelling modern era but you can’t beat the character of those old individual wagons. All the best, and thanks for sharing, Paul
Utterly brilliant idea the Shunting Poll. Thanks so much for this great tip. Where can I purchase that tiny drill you were using, I’ve never seen one before?👍
Good question Carl. Start with Ebay as there is usually a few packs on there. Then you can either ask at your local model shop or see which shops have them available on line. I prefer to use Romford couplings but other makes are available.
I'm not very interested in couplings (I use Kadees) but your layout looks very nice indeed. Quite austere but perfectly executed - your track weathering in particular seems ultra realistic! Rgds, Joachim
Thank you Joachim. I used to use Kadees too but they do t suit my older stock so (as you've seen) I've gone back to using screw and three link couplings instead. That's very kind of you to say. It took quite a while to do working from a few dozen different photographs of steam sheds back in the 1950s and 60s. If you're interested in seeing a bit more if it, the layout is Kirkby in Ashfield MPD (38F) and I've put a few videos up over the past year or so documenting the work carried out so far. Thanks for the comment, really put a smile on my face. Thanks again.
@VauxhallRailfan there should be a spring and split pin if you're fitting an etched / kit built set. The spring fits behind the bufferbeam, and the pin holds in in position. The plastic cosmetic ones just glue into place.
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller i think i might have misunderstood the whole thing then, i just glued the screw links straight to the buffer beam, and after a while they just let go. So where do i get the ones with the springs?
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller ok sorry last question- could i actually use the dummy chain links and somehow glue them to the buffer beam and just use those as couplers…
I use a miniature bar magnet in a plastic tube to uncouple my tension lock coupling. It is vastly superior to the shunter's pole it replaced,, because it lifts the hooks from above.
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller The magnet raises the hooks without actually touching them. On old Triang couplings, touching the raised hook will cause it to magnetise, temporarily and remain raised, for a few minutes, so that loose/fly shunting can be performed.
Don't think that was a Sprat n Winkle. I use 3/screw links mixed with Dingham's. Smiths hooks prefered as they are a fart over scale and easier to make compatible with Dinghams. This new layout will need some auto coupling as it'll have express trains coming into a station canopy and I need them hands free to uncouple. Other areas for wagons don't matter as much though. Shunters pole or magnets for those.
I had thought of adding a small magnet to the end of the shunting "hook" to put under couplers that require a magnet to release them. I'll have a play with them and see if they work as a mk2 variation. 👍
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller Ok cool. I have managed to bodge Dinghams to Tension locks sited higher and also bodged a larger loop on the Dingham so the tension locks on coaches engauge with other coaches and the bodged dingham engauges with scale screw links. It's still in experimental phaze so needs refinement butnI don't want my engines 'defiled' with fake couplings but also want some auto couplings yet am happy with fixed rakes for coaches
Thanks David. Yes, you're right. I'd always assumed that the magnetic Hunt Couplings currently available are for fixed rakes to improve reliability and ease of stock removal and rotation at the end of a running session. It's a compromise but I use Hunt couplings between wagons and coaches and screw links at either end so they can be easily attached to or removed from the locomotive.
Hi Dibley. To be honest mate, if you're using a shunting pole it's quite simple to connect any three, screw or instanta couplings. Gluing them would remove the realistic look and operation you get with them. Under load they do pull straight but they dont remain under tension when stationary unless they're stopped on an incline. Interesting idea though and I will look up Gomo to see exactly what they do. Cheers 👍
@@dibley1973 exactly. Thats partly the reason why I made this video. It doesn't matter really what couplings you use, is the way in which they are coupled and uncoupled that is where the models step away from reality. I've seen some magnetic couplings recently and some one complained that they had to be uncoupled by hand. It got me thinking, in the real world, how else do you do it?
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller - yes ut us a very valid point you make, both here be in your video. We all need to stop getting so hung up with auto u couplers.
It's not a Sprat and Winkle coupling, it looks like the DG coupling. Your uncoupling hook would actually work with genuine Sprat and Winkle couplings. Incidentally, if you replicate the shape of actual shunting poles, you'll find coupling three link couplings much easier.
Yea, thanks James. I realised that not long after uploading the video. A couple of people have now spotted that error. Really like the idea of replicating the real shape on the end of the hook. As I am converting all my stock to three/screw link couplings it would certainly be useful. Great suggestion, thank you.
Old small paint brushes make good poles after the bristles have died, pull out the bristle head & drill the wooden stick to then press your metal rod in to.
That's a great suggestion for recycling old brushes. I'd not thought of that but ill be making the next one that gets worn out into another uncoupling hook. Thanks for the comment.
I've started converting all of my wagons over to screw or three link (depending upon what they should have). They do look much better and I think they move more realistically too.
Keep it simple stup*d...............I think is how the phrase goes, why make complex under board magnets and stuff when a bent piece of wire will do............I've used bent paperclips for ages now on my Tension lock couplings. I once had a layout about 30 years ago which had only three link and Screw link couplings on all the stock, I liked that but they were a pain to fit on the stock, I might go back there on day and explore that option again. Anyway best regards Dave.
You said it Dave. Keep it simple. I've used the hidden and electromagnet uncouplers in the past but i think there's much more enjoyment to be found in the good old fashioned hands on approach.
Great point you make there. Shunters pole is just the trick and it doesn't cost a penny. Top Notch.
Thanks Brian
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller it made me subscribe dude. You're a man that makes sense, too much cost in all the extra, fiddly bits, no need. It's about enjoying the hobby, without the wife divorcing me, lol.
Very useful video. My father was a shunter, so making this and using it on a Ruston and Hornsby red diesel shunter (like the one he drove) will be perfect!
Thank you for providing such precise and detailed instructions for a very complicated project. ;)
You're welcome.
I try to make these things look much harder than they are just so it appears that I'm doing something special
Great and helpful video. thanks james!
Glad it was helpful
That is a very handy and simple tip . Thank you for posting this video on what is a vital tool for a model railway layout . I was actually looking to buy one from somewhere now i won't have to . Cheers !
Glad to have been able to help David.
Thank you for the comment.
new to the hobby of train modelling, very useful idea. just have to modify my large paper pin to make it better. thank you for the idea.
Welcome to the hobby and thank you for the comment.
Great video James a further development on the shunters pole we soldered a brass paddle to the wire so when you put the shunter pole in between the wagons the paddle lifts the hooks using the part that hangs down below the D bar works a treat keep modeling and stay safe
That's a really good idea Andy.
Thanks for the comment.
I hope others read it and make use of that suggestion as it would definitely help people using tension lock couplings.
Good useful video. What do you use for the metal wire for the coupling tool?
Thanks Matt.
It's just 1mm steel wire. I've had it around for years so can't remember where I bought it from but a paperclip can be bent to shape and used too and it works just as well.
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller Arh that's a good idea and I could use the a paper clip I guess. I do use a dentist tool to uncouple and works ok but I'm wondering whether your design works better.
Great layout James and interesting video. The grime effect you have achieved around the track work looks brilliant and highly effective. Very nice yard. I’m modelling modern era but you can’t beat the character of those old individual wagons. All the best, and thanks for sharing, Paul
Thanks Paul.
Shunter pole - Clever idea, thanks for sharing that
You're welcome. Hope it is useful to you.
Utterly brilliant idea the Shunting Poll. Thanks so much for this great tip. Where can I purchase that tiny drill you were using, I’ve never seen one before?👍
Thank you Raymond.
Look up Pin Vice Drill.
They're quite easily found and can be bought from many Trade, DIY and craft suppliers.
Thanks for watching.
What a superb and detailed layout, I've subbed
Thank you.
Great video .Like it very much.Take care
Thank you Dave.
You too 👍
Brilliant. So easy and effective
Thanks Tony
Where can you get the three link couplings?
Good question Carl.
Start with Ebay as there is usually a few packs on there.
Then you can either ask at your local model shop or see which shops have them available on line.
I prefer to use Romford couplings but other makes are available.
I'm not very interested in couplings (I use Kadees) but your layout looks very nice indeed. Quite austere but perfectly executed - your track weathering in particular seems ultra realistic! Rgds, Joachim
Thank you Joachim.
I used to use Kadees too but they do t suit my older stock so (as you've seen) I've gone back to using screw and three link couplings instead.
That's very kind of you to say.
It took quite a while to do working from a few dozen different photographs of steam sheds back in the 1950s and 60s.
If you're interested in seeing a bit more if it, the layout is Kirkby in Ashfield MPD (38F) and I've put a few videos up over the past year or so documenting the work carried out so far.
Thanks for the comment, really put a smile on my face.
Thanks again.
How do you properly fix the screw link hooks to the bufferbeam… cant seem to get them to stay…
@VauxhallRailfan there should be a spring and split pin if you're fitting an etched / kit built set.
The spring fits behind the bufferbeam, and the pin holds in in position.
The plastic cosmetic ones just glue into place.
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller i think i might have misunderstood the whole thing then, i just glued the screw links straight to the buffer beam, and after a while they just let go. So where do i get the ones with the springs?
@VauxhallRailfan look for Smiths by W&T.
They're the best ones in my opinion.
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller thanks, pretty good price actually. Too bad that i have to pay £10 postage excluding import costs to The Netherlands..
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller ok sorry last question- could i actually use the dummy chain links and somehow glue them to the buffer beam and just use those as couplers…
I use a miniature bar magnet in a plastic tube to uncouple my tension lock coupling. It is vastly superior to the shunter's pole it replaced,, because it lifts the hooks from above.
That spends really clever. Great idea, I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the comment.
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller The magnet raises the hooks without actually touching them. On old Triang couplings, touching the raised hook will cause it to magnetise, temporarily and remain raised, for a few minutes, so that loose/fly shunting can be performed.
Don't think that was a Sprat n Winkle.
I use 3/screw links mixed with Dingham's. Smiths hooks prefered as they are a fart over scale and easier to make compatible with Dinghams. This new layout will need some auto coupling as it'll have express trains coming into a station canopy and I need them hands free to uncouple. Other areas for wagons don't matter as much though. Shunters pole or magnets for those.
I had thought of adding a small magnet to the end of the shunting "hook" to put under couplers that require a magnet to release them.
I'll have a play with them and see if they work as a mk2 variation. 👍
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller Ok cool. I have managed to bodge Dinghams to Tension locks sited higher and also bodged a larger loop on the Dingham so the tension locks on coaches engauge with other coaches and the bodged dingham engauges with scale screw links.
It's still in experimental phaze so needs refinement butnI don't want my engines 'defiled' with fake couplings but also want some auto couplings yet am happy with fixed rakes for coaches
Very good idea I like. Can't use this with those magnetic couplings. They have to be pulled apart
Thanks David.
Yes, you're right.
I'd always assumed that the magnetic Hunt Couplings currently available are for fixed rakes to improve reliability and ease of stock removal and rotation at the end of a running session. It's a compromise but I use Hunt couplings between wagons and coaches and screw links at either end so they can be easily attached to or removed from the locomotive.
very good
0:54 where can i get those couplings
Accurascale and hornby do some
To make 3 link coupling / uncoupling easier try gluing the three links together. Not my idea. I think it is Gomo's channel
Hi Dibley.
To be honest mate, if you're using a shunting pole it's quite simple to connect any three, screw or instanta couplings.
Gluing them would remove the realistic look and operation you get with them.
Under load they do pull straight but they dont remain under tension when stationary unless they're stopped on an incline.
Interesting idea though and I will look up Gomo to see exactly what they do.
Cheers 👍
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller I do see your point there. I guess it's all a compromise somewhere in the system!
@@dibley1973 exactly.
Thats partly the reason why I made this video.
It doesn't matter really what couplings you use, is the way in which they are coupled and uncoupled that is where the models step away from reality.
I've seen some magnetic couplings recently and some one complained that they had to be uncoupled by hand. It got me thinking, in the real world, how else do you do it?
@@JAMESDEMU-RailwayModeller - yes ut us a very valid point you make, both here be in your video. We all need to stop getting so hung up with auto u couplers.
It's not a Sprat and Winkle coupling, it looks like the DG coupling. Your uncoupling hook would actually work with genuine Sprat and Winkle couplings.
Incidentally, if you replicate the shape of actual shunting poles, you'll find coupling three link couplings much easier.
Yea, thanks James. I realised that not long after uploading the video.
A couple of people have now spotted that error.
Really like the idea of replicating the real shape on the end of the hook. As I am converting all my stock to three/screw link couplings it would certainly be useful.
Great suggestion, thank you.
Old small paint brushes make good poles after the bristles have died, pull out the bristle head & drill the wooden stick to then press your metal rod in to.
That's a great suggestion for recycling old brushes. I'd not thought of that but ill be making the next one that gets worn out into another uncoupling hook.
Thanks for the comment.
I myself rather use three link couplings or screw couplings on carriages K-des more realistic I think Bill
I've started converting all of my wagons over to screw or three link (depending upon what they should have). They do look much better and I think they move more realistically too.
I would rather have three link coupling more realistic I think Bill
Keep it simple stup*d...............I think is how the phrase goes, why make complex under board magnets and stuff when a bent piece of wire will do............I've used bent paperclips for ages now on my Tension lock couplings. I once had a layout about 30 years ago which had only three link and Screw link couplings on all the stock, I liked that but they were a pain to fit on the stock, I might go back there on day and explore that option again. Anyway best regards Dave.
You said it Dave.
Keep it simple.
I've used the hidden and electromagnet uncouplers in the past but i think there's much more enjoyment to be found in the good old fashioned hands on approach.
Kids watching that would wonder where the batteries go in your shunter's pole 🌈😷🇬🇧
Ha, thanks for that Lee. 😂😂
very good
Thank you Duncan.