Sorry to post off the topic of power steering, but it looks like you've done away with the electrical FWD/REV switch and were using the mechanical shift to reverse out at the end. Is this the new (old) normal?
Well I ran into issues trying to install my EZ power unit. My LHD LR series 2a (1967-68) has a wiper motor right where the electrical motor for the power steering would be.... Also, the instructions are extremely incomplete. Did you have to cut your housing steering box tube?
Unfortunately the weak point of the steering is the steering box. You have just added more stress to the steering box. I have seen several damaged ones, very likely you will have problems. You would be better with the Haystee Automotive type hydraulic unit which takes all the load off the steering box and the relay. I have been running one for about 5 years with 33x10.5 mud tyres and it has been flawless.
It's difficult for us to add hydraulic pressure. The electric pumps would be by far the most noisy thing on the car. Know what you mean about the steering boxes though, almost every original one that comes into the workshop is cracked at the mount points
@@Jauntmotors Some EHPS units are pretty quiet, however I can understand not wanting hydraulics. I wonder if it would be possible the mount an electric PS unit (like the one Ev West sells), in place of the relay. Therefore taking the load off the steering box. I am doing the research for my own conversion....
I struggle to fully understand the stress argument. The elec assist steer is not putting any more torque through the box, it is just reducing it from our arms. If I turn my fully manual 2a with its 900x16 tyres at zero speed on rough concrete I am putting a huge effort in, an elec assistance will not put any more or less to turn the wheels, it just makes it easier on me. The haystee system is reputed to be great, only issue is price and when adding it to already worn or faulty steering gear. I think I would opt for an elec unit still though and plan to go down that road in my build.
@@NathanNostaw It's not really a case of either/or. If you have power steering "above" the steering box you are going to put more torque, more often, through it. You can bust them even with arms like Dave's (sorry Dave). Without PS you can feel when you are overloading the steering and tend to back off (like when wheels are stuck in a rut). I will be interested to see how the EZ holds up but I suspect at the very least you will be chasing steering play for warrants, which has never been a problem with the Haystee system. What is the price of the EZ unit? Although even if it was half the price I wouldn't use it unless I could work out how to put it below the steering box.
@@NathanNostaw when I’m manoeuvring in my 61 lwb I COULD grind the wheels round but the feedback is FUCK NO! So I creep forward or back and pull the steering as the tyres rotate. Half the effort and that’s how it was designed to be done. The only time I’ll go lock to lock without moving is on loose surfaces wet grass or mud. The series steering box flexes even when it’s done up proper, that’s why defenders have them bolted to the chassis not the footwell and a pressed steel plate. I’d love PAS but I agree with th other chap, hydraulic ram to to wheels is the best, kindest system
I love the thought and engineering that has gone into this project. I wish I could give you my 2a and a blank cheque.
This is so cool! great work...& love Fridas cameo
Bloody love it. Thanks for sharing
Sorry to post off the topic of power steering, but it looks like you've done away with the electrical FWD/REV switch and were using the mechanical shift to reverse out at the end. Is this the new (old) normal?
Well I ran into issues trying to install my EZ power unit. My LHD LR series 2a (1967-68) has a wiper motor right where the electrical motor for the power steering would be.... Also, the instructions are extremely incomplete. Did you have to cut your housing steering box tube?
Ez are going to be flooded with quote requests. Hopefully, I just got near the front of the queue.
Could you increase the turning circle by increasing the length of the steering Collum or making a custom one
Hey there what a relief...can you tell me how much you bought it I couldn't find a quote for it on the website
I have a Santana series III 1979 and my sterring is a nightmare hard, what can I do, will yours work
Muy bueno el vídeo
Cant find a way to buy this
Hi just wondering if you had to modify the steering bracket on the inside of the bulkhead or make your own bracket
The kit from Ez power steering comes with the bracket. Dave from jaunt.
Unfortunately the weak point of the steering is the steering box. You have just added more stress to the steering box. I have seen several damaged ones, very likely you will have problems. You would be better with the Haystee Automotive type hydraulic unit which takes all the load off the steering box and the relay. I have been running one for about 5 years with 33x10.5 mud tyres and it has been flawless.
It's difficult for us to add hydraulic pressure. The electric pumps would be by far the most noisy thing on the car. Know what you mean about the steering boxes though, almost every original one that comes into the workshop is cracked at the mount points
@@Jauntmotors Some EHPS units are pretty quiet, however I can understand not wanting hydraulics. I wonder if it would be possible the mount an electric PS unit (like the one Ev West sells), in place of the relay. Therefore taking the load off the steering box. I am doing the research for my own conversion....
I struggle to fully understand the stress argument. The elec assist steer is not putting any more torque through the box, it is just reducing it from our arms. If I turn my fully manual 2a with its 900x16 tyres at zero speed on rough concrete I am putting a huge effort in, an elec assistance will not put any more or less to turn the wheels, it just makes it easier on me. The haystee system is reputed to be great, only issue is price and when adding it to already worn or faulty steering gear. I think I would opt for an elec unit still though and plan to go down that road in my build.
@@NathanNostaw It's not really a case of either/or. If you have power steering "above" the steering box you are going to put more torque, more often, through it. You can bust them even with arms like Dave's (sorry Dave). Without PS you can feel when you are overloading the steering and tend to back off (like when wheels are stuck in a rut). I will be interested to see how the EZ holds up but I suspect at the very least you will be chasing steering play for warrants, which has never been a problem with the Haystee system. What is the price of the EZ unit? Although even if it was half the price I wouldn't use it unless I could work out how to put it below the steering box.
@@NathanNostaw when I’m manoeuvring in my 61 lwb I COULD grind the wheels round but the feedback is FUCK NO!
So I creep forward or back and pull the steering as the tyres rotate. Half the effort and that’s how it was designed to be done. The only time I’ll go lock to lock without moving is on loose surfaces wet grass or mud. The series steering box flexes even when it’s done up proper, that’s why defenders have them bolted to the chassis not the footwell and a pressed steel plate.
I’d love PAS but I agree with th other chap, hydraulic ram to to wheels is the best, kindest system
Stick it where the sun don't shine.
Price in RSA
Como c conprar?