Another excellent Yeti video Todd! You're definitely THE go-to resource for Goal Zero! So if we have an MPPT controller and it can accept up to 48V maximum, we can use the Victron Orion 12/24-15 DC-DC Converter and set it to the maximum of 30V. Whereas on my Yeti 1000 I only have the built-in PWM controller, the actual max input is 22V. My Orion is set to 20V to power the Goal Zero (purposely just below the max of 22V in case my van is really cold in the winter the Orion will actually push out more volts. I'll update my video description to note this fact as well. Too bad Goal Zero doesn't label it properly. Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it. Yeah, I’m surprised GZ is so conservative with their specs but I guess that’s their approach. Can’t wait to see what you do next.
My yeti had a sticker on it that said the built in PWN could handle up to 45v!!!!! lol. I called them and they said "don't do that, it'll melt" What a company.
@@leftofone Yep! I have been working on 3 videos at once which was...a bad idea. First ones out, got a quick review of the battery charger I'm using, then the charging from a lithium battery. This weekend, I hooked my full sized fridge to my yeti with my 100ah LiFePO4 battery hooked in and trickle charging the yeti. Only used 1 car charger to balance the input and output and it ran for 30+ hours before the Yeti hit 20% and I had pulled 1,800wh. I've had good luck fully charging a Yeti from this battery with 2 chargers going full bore a few times, works great but I think that it's probably better to balance your input and output so you pull the power a bit slower to reduce heat and be more efficient. Anyway, video in the works, got a rough edit together.
Thank you for this clarification. I've been running my MPPT input on my GZ1000 at 24 recently as well. My unit had a sticker on the PWM that says 30V and the lid says 45V. Maybe I will post a video how I run mine in the shed.
@@todd.parker yeah, must be one of the first units. Sounds like they lowered it just for safety concerns. Lid says 16-45 for both 8mm and APP. I've run 40+ into it and haven't had a problem.
@@todd.parker I always wondered why my Yeti 1000 Lithium (not the X model for sure) has a 30V sticker on the front but everyone else I have seen on UA-cam has a 22V sticker. I've had mine for several years now basically since they 1st came out. I have a sticker on the front that says "Danger Never Exceed 30V Input" When you open the top lid there's another much bigger scarier DANGER sticker on the bottom shelf section in the middle just to the right of where the power supply sits that says the same thing about 30V. Then directly under the lid there's another sticker with all of the units tech specs listed including: for Charging inputs - 8mm round port: 14-22V, up to 10A 120W max and Power-pole port: 14-22V, up to 30A 360W max. Hope this helps? Also there is a section with dashed lines around it that says "Serial number decal location" with no sticker there. So I guess I have no serial number? And before you ask, I don't remember where exactly I bought this from, probably Amazon or Goal Zero directly, one of the two. Keep up the excellent work TP!
I was looking at getting (8) 100W panels to charge my Yeti 1000. Splitting the panels evenly between the PWM and MPPT. Previously each charge controller was limited to 360W at 22V. With 8 panels running at 90% efficiency I would be within the published limits. Your 1000W video was helpful in figuring this out. Now that we know that the MPPT side can accept 48V, shouldn't I be able to add an additional (4) 100W panels and wire them in a 2-Series/4-Parallel configuration? I would be doubling the voltage but the wattage would remain at 400W (360W @ 90%).
So I think the 8x 100w panels divided between the inputs are totally fine, as you said and my video proved. You never get close to the rated power so 400w would be ~320 in ideal conditions. As far as the MPPT voltage, I don't think you can go beyond the 4x panels, regardless of how you wire them because they care about the total input in watts which should be 320w. Assuming your panels are 20v @ 5a = 100w each, if you wire 4x in parallel that would be 20v @ 20a = 400w. If you then wired those sets in series, it would be 40v @ 20a = 800w. Honestly, it's better for the battery to charge at a slower rate unless you're in a real hurry or are charging it under heavy loads. If you charged it at even 800w, that's close to .8C which is pretty stressful on the battery. If you were running say a 500w load at the same time, that would passthrough so the battery would only be charging at 300w (.33C rate).
@@todd.parker Thanks for weighing in. I was trying to find a way to run a larger load while at peak sun (5000 btu window ac) without depleting the battery too much.
@@ericlundquist9032 Gotcha. I think from a heat perspective, it's good to stay within 720w total. I wish the bigger units could handle much more solar power. For the 1000, 720w seems more than enough but for a 3000 or 6000, not so much.
When looking at what solar panels are suitable for the goal zero... What are the key things to look at? Just the VoC which is 22v and less?? Is the VoC what the 22v max sticker is referring to?
That's the open circuit voltage, connected to a battery it's a bit lower but I use the VoC number to make sure I'm staying in the safe zone. Any panel from 18-22v works with the PWM input on older Yetis. You can do up to 48v for the MPPT or Yeti X. You can connect two panels in series to double the voltage and keep amps the same so 2x 22v panels in series will be 44v.
@@todd.parker the 40v panels went on the MPPT. on the PWM I never put a panel more than 20v on, but I could crank 10 amps into it before it started to heat up.
Hi, Great video but now I'm confused... You've only managed to plug in 120w worth of panels and it hits over 42v but in your other video you've plugged in over 1kw worth of panels. I don't understand. Is the 1kw panel set up all limited to be under 22v?
Yes, I connected 1,000 watts of panels but they were all connected in parallel and each was 19v. I’ve been limited in the kinds of panels I can use but now I know I can use higher voltage panels or panel in series for more flexibility and lower losses
@@todd.parker hum... Maybe I should look more into parallel Vs serial solar panel setups. I'm looking at purchasing a Goal Zero Yeti 1000x and a few panels to go on the shed roof. But thanks for the info.
So what is the max charge that a Goal Zero 6000x can handle? if you had a 300 watt constant drain / load on the battery? if you hook up a victron 250/100, can you charge using the victrron's 100 amps and goal zeros 50 amps (At the same Time)?
Thanks for the very informative video. Did you ever try going above 49VOC (I'm wondering if it simply throws an error)? Also, I'm contemplating plugging a 36VDC recycled scooter lithium battery into the APP port on the MPPT module. Do you happen to know if the MPPT will limit the input current?
Glad it was helpful. I didn’t go higher on the voltage because I couldn’t wire the panels I had in a way that didn’t far exceed 48v and discrete want to risk it. For the MPPT, I don’t know if it’s current limited but I’d be wary of doing that. It could pull a lot of current and damage the module but it’s replaceable for low cost so heck why not!
@@todd.parker I just tried testing the MPPT module using both 10s (36v nominal, 41v tested) and 13s (46.8v nominal, 53.1v tested) lithium-ion (NMC) batteries plugged into the Anderson port. I'm not recommending anyone else try this (aka I take no responsibility if someone else tries this)... but the MPPT seems to be limiting to ~288w regardless of voltage (both batteries can easily do 750-1000w cont. discharge)... which is what I was hoping it would do. I ran both for about 15 minutes and no issues encountered at that time. At some point, I'll probably hook up a bench power supply up to this to see what the max values are. Thanks again for all the informative videos you've provided on this.
@@todd.parker Hi, YMMV but I hooked up a bench power supply that tops out at ~60v (the limit of the power supply) and it appears that, regardless of voltage, the MPPT limited to around 270w-288w. Testing was done at ~35% SOC. Disclaimer: I don't recommend doing this and take no responsibility for anyone that tries it. That being said, I know this would definitely void the warranty and requires careful monitoring of voltages, but have you ever considered creating a direct expansion outlet (similar to the Anderson Powerpole SB175 connector on the older Yeti 1250)?
Interesting data. For the expansion port, I think the tricky thing is keeping multiple lithium batteries balanced, something that gets really hard when the batteries aren’t identical. The fact that GZ ended up using lead acid to chain to their lithium cells tells me this is a really tricky to get right.
awesome video todd, question, I have a boviet 400 watt panel with 49.15 open circuit voltage, I'm wanting to rum it through the mppt on my 1000 lithium. what's your feelings on this, wondering if you may have done more research on this
That might be pushing your luck. As it is, 48v is already more than they advertise. With voltage, if you go over the max you can quickly damage the controller
So if I have one panel that's like 250watts and it is putting out 36.5 volts on a sunny day. Do you think that I will be ok plugging it into the mppt solar module?
It should be but check the open circuit voltage to be sure it doesn’t exceed 48v and only do that if you have the MPPT module. The PWM will blow up over 20v.
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Thanks for sharing your findings about the add on GZ mppt module.
Thank you! Always a learning experience w/your videos. Easy and fun.👍
Glad you liked it!
The 1500X, with embedded MPPT, has a 50V documented limit... so this all makes sense.
3rd time watch Todd, so my wife could get clarity on the issue also, as nobody presents these things as clearly as you, thanks.
So glad it was helpful
Another excellent Yeti video Todd! You're definitely THE go-to resource for Goal Zero! So if we have an MPPT controller and it can accept up to 48V maximum, we can use the Victron Orion 12/24-15 DC-DC Converter and set it to the maximum of 30V. Whereas on my Yeti 1000 I only have the built-in PWM controller, the actual max input is 22V. My Orion is set to 20V to power the Goal Zero (purposely just below the max of 22V in case my van is really cold in the winter the Orion will actually push out more volts. I'll update my video description to note this fact as well. Too bad Goal Zero doesn't label it properly. Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it. Yeah, I’m surprised GZ is so conservative with their specs but I guess that’s their approach. Can’t wait to see what you do next.
My yeti had a sticker on it that said the built in PWN could handle up to 45v!!!!! lol. I called them and they said "don't do that, it'll melt" What a company.
Bravo Todd! Thanks for your informative and entertaining video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the tip.
@@todd.parker Are you planning on making a video showing your Battleborn directly charging your Yeti?
@@leftofone Yep! I have been working on 3 videos at once which was...a bad idea. First ones out, got a quick review of the battery charger I'm using, then the charging from a lithium battery. This weekend, I hooked my full sized fridge to my yeti with my 100ah LiFePO4 battery hooked in and trickle charging the yeti. Only used 1 car charger to balance the input and output and it ran for 30+ hours before the Yeti hit 20% and I had pulled 1,800wh. I've had good luck fully charging a Yeti from this battery with 2 chargers going full bore a few times, works great but I think that it's probably better to balance your input and output so you pull the power a bit slower to reduce heat and be more efficient. Anyway, video in the works, got a rough edit together.
Thank you for this clarification. I've been running my MPPT input on my GZ1000 at 24 recently as well. My unit had a sticker on the PWM that says 30V and the lid says 45V. Maybe I will post a video how I run mine in the shed.
Interesting. So you have an older Yeti 1000 like mine but it has different stickers or do you have a 1000X? Post a video for sure!
@@todd.parker yeah, must be one of the first units. Sounds like they lowered it just for safety concerns. Lid says 16-45 for both 8mm and APP. I've run 40+ into it and haven't had a problem.
@@chowjaka huh, good to know that 22v may not be a hard limit on the PWM
@@todd.parker I always wondered why my Yeti 1000 Lithium (not the X model for sure) has a 30V sticker on the front but everyone else I have seen on UA-cam has a 22V sticker. I've had mine for several years now basically since they 1st came out. I have a sticker on the front that says "Danger Never Exceed 30V Input" When you open the top lid there's another much bigger scarier DANGER sticker on the bottom shelf section in the middle just to the right of where the power supply sits that says the same thing about 30V. Then directly under the lid there's another sticker with all of the units tech specs listed including: for Charging inputs - 8mm round port: 14-22V, up to 10A 120W max and Power-pole port: 14-22V, up to 30A 360W max. Hope this helps? Also there is a section with dashed lines around it that says "Serial number decal location" with no sticker there. So I guess I have no serial number? And before you ask, I don't remember where exactly I bought this from, probably Amazon or Goal Zero directly, one of the two. Keep up the excellent work TP!
Apparently you can also plug your alternator into the mppt as well
You can definitely charge from your alternator but I think you’d be better off using a dc to dc charger plugged into the PWM
I was looking at getting (8) 100W panels to charge my Yeti 1000. Splitting the panels evenly between the PWM and MPPT. Previously each charge controller was limited to 360W at 22V. With 8 panels running at 90% efficiency I would be within the published limits. Your 1000W video was helpful in figuring this out. Now that we know that the MPPT side can accept 48V, shouldn't I be able to add an additional (4) 100W panels and wire them in a 2-Series/4-Parallel configuration? I would be doubling the voltage but the wattage would remain at 400W (360W @ 90%).
So I think the 8x 100w panels divided between the inputs are totally fine, as you said and my video proved. You never get close to the rated power so 400w would be ~320 in ideal conditions. As far as the MPPT voltage, I don't think you can go beyond the 4x panels, regardless of how you wire them because they care about the total input in watts which should be 320w. Assuming your panels are 20v @ 5a = 100w each, if you wire 4x in parallel that would be 20v @ 20a = 400w. If you then wired those sets in series, it would be 40v @ 20a = 800w. Honestly, it's better for the battery to charge at a slower rate unless you're in a real hurry or are charging it under heavy loads. If you charged it at even 800w, that's close to .8C which is pretty stressful on the battery. If you were running say a 500w load at the same time, that would passthrough so the battery would only be charging at 300w (.33C rate).
@@todd.parker Thanks for weighing in. I was trying to find a way to run a larger load while at peak sun (5000 btu window ac) without depleting the battery too much.
@@ericlundquist9032 Gotcha. I think from a heat perspective, it's good to stay within 720w total. I wish the bigger units could handle much more solar power. For the 1000, 720w seems more than enough but for a 3000 or 6000, not so much.
We run 24v through the mppt w no problem, 12v in series.
When looking at what solar panels are suitable for the goal zero... What are the key things to look at?
Just the VoC which is 22v and less??
Is the VoC what the 22v max sticker is referring to?
That's the open circuit voltage, connected to a battery it's a bit lower but I use the VoC number to make sure I'm staying in the safe zone. Any panel from 18-22v works with the PWM input on older Yetis. You can do up to 48v for the MPPT or Yeti X. You can connect two panels in series to double the voltage and keep amps the same so 2x 22v panels in series will be 44v.
I've run normal 40v 60 cells on the mppt for years without issue.
Good to hear that long term perspective. Was that in the PWM?!
@@todd.parker the 40v panels went on the MPPT.
on the PWM I never put a panel more than 20v on, but I could crank 10 amps into it before it started to heat up.
Hi,
Great video but now I'm confused... You've only managed to plug in 120w worth of panels and it hits over 42v but in your other video you've plugged in over 1kw worth of panels.
I don't understand. Is the 1kw panel set up all limited to be under 22v?
Yes, I connected 1,000 watts of panels but they were all connected in parallel and each was 19v. I’ve been limited in the kinds of panels I can use but now I know I can use higher voltage panels or panel in series for more flexibility and lower losses
@@todd.parker hum... Maybe I should look more into parallel Vs serial solar panel setups.
I'm looking at purchasing a Goal Zero Yeti 1000x and a few panels to go on the shed roof.
But thanks for the info.
So what is the max charge that a Goal Zero 6000x can handle? if you had a 300 watt constant drain / load on the battery? if you hook up a victron 250/100, can you charge using the victrron's 100 amps and goal zeros 50 amps (At the same Time)?
I think you’d need to ask goal zero support, their site doesn’t clearly say what the max input is across all inputs
Thanks for the very informative video. Did you ever try going above 49VOC (I'm wondering if it simply throws an error)? Also, I'm contemplating plugging a 36VDC recycled scooter lithium battery into the APP port on the MPPT module. Do you happen to know if the MPPT will limit the input current?
Glad it was helpful. I didn’t go higher on the voltage because I couldn’t wire the panels I had in a way that didn’t far exceed 48v and discrete want to risk it. For the MPPT, I don’t know if it’s current limited but I’d be wary of doing that. It could pull a lot of current and damage the module but it’s replaceable for low cost so heck why not!
@@todd.parker I just tried testing the MPPT module using both 10s (36v nominal, 41v tested) and 13s (46.8v nominal, 53.1v tested) lithium-ion (NMC) batteries plugged into the Anderson port. I'm not recommending anyone else try this (aka I take no responsibility if someone else tries this)... but the MPPT seems to be limiting to ~288w regardless of voltage (both batteries can easily do 750-1000w cont. discharge)... which is what I was hoping it would do. I ran both for about 15 minutes and no issues encountered at that time. At some point, I'll probably hook up a bench power supply up to this to see what the max values are. Thanks again for all the informative videos you've provided on this.
@@daweihong that’s really good info, thanks. So you think the MPPT limits the current? Looking forward to more data!
@@todd.parker Hi, YMMV but I hooked up a bench power supply that tops out at ~60v (the limit of the power supply) and it appears that, regardless of voltage, the MPPT limited to around 270w-288w. Testing was done at ~35% SOC. Disclaimer: I don't recommend doing this and take no responsibility for anyone that tries it.
That being said, I know this would definitely void the warranty and requires careful monitoring of voltages, but have you ever considered creating a direct expansion outlet (similar to the Anderson Powerpole SB175 connector on the older Yeti 1250)?
Interesting data. For the expansion port, I think the tricky thing is keeping multiple lithium batteries balanced, something that gets really hard when the batteries aren’t identical. The fact that GZ ended up using lead acid to chain to their lithium cells tells me this is a really tricky to get right.
awesome video todd, question, I have a boviet 400 watt panel with 49.15 open circuit voltage, I'm wanting to rum it through the mppt on my 1000 lithium. what's your feelings on this, wondering if you may have done more research on this
That might be pushing your luck. As it is, 48v is already more than they advertise. With voltage, if you go over the max you can quickly damage the controller
@@todd.parker what if i use resistors or a "buck convertor" to drop the voltage
@@kturville That should work fine then. You just need to stay below the max voltage and give yourself some headroom for colder days when voltage rises
How many input watts from solar panels can the yeti handle at once?
The Yeti 1000X can only handle 150W Max (14-50V, up to 10A). If you add the MPPT module, I think that doubles the input
So if I have one panel that's like 250watts and it is putting out 36.5 volts on a sunny day. Do you think that I will be ok plugging it into the mppt solar module?
It should be but check the open circuit voltage to be sure it doesn’t exceed 48v and only do that if you have the MPPT module. The PWM will blow up over 20v.
Do you have a link where I can find the tp-solar 25.2voc 120w panel? Looking to parallel 2x120w panels for my eb70
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Does it still work?
Yep