I prefer Weihenstephaner but both are world class German Weissbier examples... To me, Weihenstephaner heffe weissbier is among the top 2-3 beers on the planet.
Did you say mash at 77C? Also what temp did you ferment at? I struggle pulling out the banana notes from the yeast and I’m wondering if I need to ferment higher or at more of a consistent temp?
Started the mash around 68 and brought up to 77 to mash out at the end. I've heard that fermenting at at least 20c is best to get the banana notes. Could have been luck on my part as I brewed in the summer so it probably fermented a little hotter!
@@beer.me.up.please Ahh mash out at 77! I was going to say aha. Yeah I think that is the key, I have temp control now for the fermentation so that might help too. Cheers for the tips.
Beer looked great! One question, do you use any kind of calculator to determine your sparging volumes? Currently I'm doing brew in a bag and wondering if I should start sparging
Thanks! Yeah I use an app called "Wort" - was free on the android app store. It's a little confusing to start off with but it does help you understand the volumes you need.
How much priming sugar did you use to carbonate each bottle or did you batch prime? Keep up the good work, I'm moving from kit to biab, looking forward to your videos 👍🍺
I batch primed. I mixed a couple table spoons of honey with a cup of water in a pot. Transferred from the Demi john to the pot first and then from there to the bottles. Hope that helps and good luck with biab brews 🍻
@@dechers77 I've batch primed beers with this yeast many times, and the amount really depended on the final gravity of the beer. If I started out with all malt I ended up with a higher gravity, about 1010, using dextrose I got down to 1004. For 1010 I didn't need much priming sugar at all, for 1004 needed 2/3cup. I had one brew at 1012 FG which I might have bottled early, didn't add any sugar for priming and was good. All these Fg numbers were for ABV5% beers.
I can't recommend that yeast enough, M20 is so vigorous and reliable, giving great clove and just a little of banana. I've used it now maybe a dozen times and it's always been very consistent and forgiving of different temperatures. I've tried out all the other Bavarian Wheat beer yeasts out there I could get my hands on, but none has performed as well as this one for me.
The brewing instruction produced moonshiners beer. The single temperature infusion method is used by moonshiners and skips three steps that are needed for producing ale and lager, conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization, because a moonshiner doesn't need the steps for making whiskey. Homebrewing and the literature involved with it are based on the way that a moonshiner makes the beer that is distilled. Hops were difficult to obtain during Prohibition and herbs and spices were used for flavoring and 50 years later, the beer became specialty beer and Holiday beer that advertisers wrote romantic stories about. The rest temperature is used in grain distillation because at 65, 66, Alpha releases the highest volume of glucose as possible from starch within an hour. The more glucose the more ABV. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation. The high temperature denatured Beta, otherwise, a secondary fermenter would have been required when the homebrew was made. Beta is responsible for conversion at 60. Beta converts simple sugar, glucose, into fermentable, complex, types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. Maltose is responsible for secondary fermentation and maltotriose is responsible for natural carbonation. Priming sugar and CO2 injection aren't needed for carbonating ale and lager. The method that was used for making the wheat beer produces chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, unstable, extract, which produces beer with short, shelf life. The beer is artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection and drank, green, boiler to belly in about four weeks, because the beer deteriorates, rapidly. The off flavors associated with homebrew develop during fermentation when yeast is added to low quality, extract. The boiler to belly in four weeks helps because the off flavors aren't noticeable within that time. A type of hard, heat resistant, complex, starch that contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar that provide body and mouthfeel in beer, called amylopectin was thrown away with the spent mash, paid for. The rest temperature wasn't high enough to burst the heat resistant, starch, where it enters into the mash liquid before Alpha denatures. Amylopectin makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. When the steps are skipped, beer overly dries and thins during fermentation and conditioning, which is another reason why home brew is drank while it is still, green. To produce cleaner extract, skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove break material until it drastically, reduces and when that happens, add hops. Less hops are needed and hop utilization improves when extract is clean. To produce ale and lager an entirely different brewing method is used with under modified, low protein, malt. To place the cart behind the horse, a malt spec sheet comes with each bag of malt, which a brewer uses for determining the quality of malt before purchasing malt. There are a bunch of acronyms and numbers listed on a malt spec sheet, modification and protein content are two of them. It's not a bad idea to learn about the data on a malt spec sheet, otherwise, you will have no idea if the malt is whiskey malt or malt suitable for producing ale and lager. Don't assume that the HBS guy or that the person that writes recipes knows that a malt spec sheet exists. Malt spec sheets are online from every malthouse To learn how ale and lager are produced start out with DeClerks books.
Thnx for the vid. Im gonna try your recipe next week. Just wondering do you "crush" the wheat before u use it?
thanks keep uploading videos please, they are very informative for us
I think wheat beer is my favourite beer. Very refreshing
Agreed! Tastes even better when you brew it yourself 😉🍻
Gonna try this tomorrow, very clear instructions! Looking forward to it :)
I’m keen to try and add coriander seed and orange peel to this recipe for a more Belgian style. Any ideas when I should add and what quantity of both?
Thank you, I will try
I prefer Weihenstephaner but both are world class German Weissbier examples... To me, Weihenstephaner heffe weissbier is among the top 2-3 beers on the planet.
Did you say mash at 77C? Also what temp did you ferment at? I struggle pulling out the banana notes from the yeast and I’m wondering if I need to ferment higher or at more of a consistent temp?
Started the mash around 68 and brought up to 77 to mash out at the end.
I've heard that fermenting at at least 20c is best to get the banana notes. Could have been luck on my part as I brewed in the summer so it probably fermented a little hotter!
@@beer.me.up.please Ahh mash out at 77! I was going to say aha. Yeah I think that is the key, I have temp control now for the fermentation so that might help too. Cheers for the tips.
Question. For this beer and others, how do I adjust the alcohol percentage? The ideal is between 4.5-5%
it would be nice to see a link or more edit in bio for the water measurements of recipe and other process.
Beer looked great! One question, do you use any kind of calculator to determine your sparging volumes? Currently I'm doing brew in a bag and wondering if I should start sparging
Thanks! Yeah I use an app called "Wort" - was free on the android app store. It's a little confusing to start off with but it does help you understand the volumes you need.
@@beer.me.up.please thanks, I'll take a look at the app!
Great video bro 👌🍺💯
Cheers, appreciate it
How much priming sugar did you use to carbonate each bottle or did you batch prime? Keep up the good work, I'm moving from kit to biab, looking forward to your videos 👍🍺
I batch primed. I mixed a couple table spoons of honey with a cup of water in a pot. Transferred from the Demi john to the pot first and then from there to the bottles. Hope that helps and good luck with biab brews 🍻
@@beer.me.up.please Hello there, Just liquified honey? No extra carbonation drops or brown sugar?
@@dechers77 I've batch primed beers with this yeast many times, and the amount really depended on the final gravity of the beer. If I started out with all malt I ended up with a higher gravity, about 1010, using dextrose I got down to 1004. For 1010 I didn't need much priming sugar at all, for 1004 needed 2/3cup. I had one brew at 1012 FG which I might have bottled early, didn't add any sugar for priming and was good. All these Fg numbers were for ABV5% beers.
No links!?!?! What is mashing? Cheers!
I can't recommend that yeast enough, M20 is so vigorous and reliable, giving great clove and just a little of banana. I've used it now maybe a dozen times and it's always been very consistent and forgiving of different temperatures. I've tried out all the other Bavarian Wheat beer yeasts out there I could get my hands on, but none has performed as well as this one for me.
what temperature range have you tried with m20? thanks
I don’t see any of the links
Made this tonight. Hope it turns out good. Hacked a cheap Mr Beer Kit with your ingredients. Hope the carbonation is there at the end.
Amazing! Let me know how it turns out
Tried one of these last week, opened it, poured it, took one swig, poured it down the sink, will never buy again, it was like licking damp bread.
Has anyone ever told you that you look exactly like Jan Oblak?
😂 nope but I'll take it!
One gallon ? Why bother ?
The brewing instruction produced moonshiners beer. The single temperature infusion method is used by moonshiners and skips three steps that are needed for producing ale and lager, conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization, because a moonshiner doesn't need the steps for making whiskey. Homebrewing and the literature involved with it are based on the way that a moonshiner makes the beer that is distilled. Hops were difficult to obtain during Prohibition and herbs and spices were used for flavoring and 50 years later, the beer became specialty beer and Holiday beer that advertisers wrote romantic stories about.
The rest temperature is used in grain distillation because at 65, 66, Alpha releases the highest volume of glucose as possible from starch within an hour. The more glucose the more ABV. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation. The high temperature denatured Beta, otherwise, a secondary fermenter would have been required when the homebrew was made. Beta is responsible for conversion at 60. Beta converts simple sugar, glucose, into fermentable, complex, types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. Maltose is responsible for secondary fermentation and maltotriose is responsible for natural carbonation. Priming sugar and CO2 injection aren't needed for carbonating ale and lager.
The method that was used for making the wheat beer produces chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, unstable, extract, which produces beer with short, shelf life. The beer is artificially carbonated with sugar or CO2 injection and drank, green, boiler to belly in about four weeks, because the beer deteriorates, rapidly. The off flavors associated with homebrew develop during fermentation when yeast is added to low quality, extract. The boiler to belly in four weeks helps because the off flavors aren't noticeable within that time.
A type of hard, heat resistant, complex, starch that contains A and B limit dextrin, which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar that provide body and mouthfeel in beer, called amylopectin was thrown away with the spent mash, paid for. The rest temperature wasn't high enough to burst the heat resistant, starch, where it enters into the mash liquid before Alpha denatures. Amylopectin makes up the tips of malt and it is the richest starch in malt. When the steps are skipped, beer overly dries and thins during fermentation and conditioning, which is another reason why home brew is drank while it is still, green.
To produce cleaner extract, skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove break material until it drastically, reduces and when that happens, add hops. Less hops are needed and hop utilization improves when extract is clean.
To produce ale and lager an entirely different brewing method is used with under modified, low protein, malt.
To place the cart behind the horse, a malt spec sheet comes with each bag of malt, which a brewer uses for determining the quality of malt before purchasing malt. There are a bunch of acronyms and numbers listed on a malt spec sheet, modification and protein content are two of them. It's not a bad idea to learn about the data on a malt spec sheet, otherwise, you will have no idea if the malt is whiskey malt or malt suitable for producing ale and lager. Don't assume that the HBS guy or that the person that writes recipes knows that a malt spec sheet exists. Malt spec sheets are online from every malthouse
To learn how ale and lager are produced start out with DeClerks books.
I just avoid this and use liquid malt kits, so much less work and tastes just fine if you know what you're doing.
So what temperatures would you recommend instead?
change your video format