Gotta be one of the best tutorials on yt, I had to do just the wheel bearing, for this I just took the driveshaft out, took the 3 bolts out of the arm and swung the hub outwards, then you can get to the bearing bolts and they are easy to break the bolts in that position.
That was beautiful! I was just about to take my TT into the shop for this and just wanted to see what was involved before I handed over a bunch of money. I feel better, it looks like you really need to know what you’re doing and seems worth some money. Thanks again. This was so clear. ✨
I love your work, your professional approach, how you explain everything in a visual way, with zooms and descriptions. I like that you don't show off like others, but clearly express calmness, understanding of the subject and that you do it all with love. Thank you for your videos!!!
Thanks for another great video Mike, it helped me out doing the job on my 2010 TTS. Re front hub torque values, there are 3 possible styles of bolts which could confuse anyone. This chart is from the factory manual: Drive Axle to Wheel Hub Bolt 1 - Hex Bolt - 200nm + 180° turn - 12-Point Bolt with Ribs - 70nm + 90° turn - 12-Point Bolt without Ribs - 200nm + 180° turn (the ribs are on the underside of the bolt - if your bolt is smooth, that means no ribs) Update ! I just bought 2 hub bolts at the Audi dealer and while the old bolts were grade 10.9, the new ones are now 8.8, a significant drop in strength. They are the 12 point no rib style. From a variety of torque tables, a 16 mm 8.8 bolt is good for 154 ft lbs so the above chart seems no longer relevant. Two indy Audi shops I visited said they torque these new bolts to 140 ft lbs and add 90 degrees. I went with that and let me tell you, that is still difficult to achieve 90 degrees. Do your homework on this topic.
For those that don't have a pass through socket set, get one. If you don't, an O2 sensor wrench is also a 21mm and will work to remove a strut mount nut.
Thanks again for such a helpful diy!! Mike is one of the biggest reasons I gained confidence to get into doing diy jobs on my tt (mk3 but similar in many ways). The way Mike explains everything is very straight to the point along with very useful tips that a lot of other youtubers forget to mention. Wish you could do some projects on the tt mk3 quattro as well.. Sending love from korea!!
Talk about over complicating the job! For the front Disconnect drop link, balljoint, undo hub bolt and bracketry, undo level sensor, spread the hub, remove the strut job done.
Why is there such a difference in torque between the hexagon and 12-point drive shaft to wheel hub bolt? My car came with the hex, but FCP only sold the 12-point. Nice vid, but you should mention the difference more between the mag-ride cars. 🙃
Very good tutorial. Only thing was how quickly the correction for axle torque/plus rotation. Someone could miss that and seriously under tighten it. It does hold the wheel on :)
Generally a good video except for one point. I believe that by holding the disc by putting screwdriver through the top of the caliber when tightening, or the bottom part when loosening the axle bolt you stand a chance of bending the caliber slide pins. (which are the weakest part of the system, ) much better to make sure that the caliber carrier is what takes the "200"NM torque, we can see how much the caliber moved when you did it when tightening... much better to do it on the ground (with wheel chocked). am just about to do a mk 2 front end, everything else was useful, and well described.
So I was thinking, couldn't you just loosen that bolt that clamps the strut and let the suspension sag while the strut is still in there? Losen the top 3 bolts and you're done?
@@yousufzahid6949 no for me it turned out the level sensor was fucked and that made it spungie. altough i think when lowering the suspension the drive shaft might hit its lowest point before you get the shock lose, idk havent tried it though
I’ve had new track rod ends, new strut top mounts, new droplinks and there’s a knocking noise on the front passengers side - have you guys got any idea what’s causing this? Everything is tight and set to torque specs (maybe slightly beyond but not VFT) I’ve been to two different garages and no one can work out what the cause is 😢
Hi Craig, bad control arms/ball joints can also cause a knock in the suspension, you may want to jack it up and get underneath with a prybar to try and determine where the play/noise it.
60nm...not enough I just took off my top mount and the lock nut on KW was lose and was knocking back forth and created an oval shape. So the new one I did , i used red loctite and then hit it with an impact. That isn't going anywhere.
Gotta be one of the best tutorials on yt, I had to do just the wheel bearing, for this I just took the driveshaft out, took the 3 bolts out of the arm and swung the hub outwards, then you can get to the bearing bolts and they are easy to break the bolts in that position.
A natural teacher, thank you for the very clear description.
That was beautiful! I was just about to take my TT into the shop for this and just wanted to see what was involved before I handed over a bunch of money. I feel better, it looks like you really need to know what you’re doing and seems worth some money. Thanks again. This was so clear. ✨
I love your work, your professional approach, how you explain everything in a visual way, with zooms and descriptions. I like that you don't show off like others, but clearly express calmness, understanding of the subject and that you do it all with love. Thank you for your videos!!!
Thanks for another great video Mike, it helped me out doing the job on my 2010 TTS. Re front hub torque values, there are 3 possible styles of bolts which could confuse anyone. This chart is from the factory manual:
Drive Axle to Wheel Hub Bolt 1
- Hex Bolt - 200nm + 180° turn
- 12-Point Bolt with Ribs - 70nm + 90° turn
- 12-Point Bolt without Ribs - 200nm + 180° turn (the ribs are on the underside of the bolt - if your bolt is smooth, that means no ribs)
Update ! I just bought 2 hub bolts at the Audi dealer and while the old bolts were grade 10.9, the new ones are now 8.8, a significant drop in strength. They are the 12 point no rib style. From a variety of torque tables, a 16 mm 8.8 bolt is good for 154 ft lbs so the above chart seems no longer relevant. Two indy Audi shops I visited said they torque these new bolts to 140 ft lbs and add 90 degrees. I went with that and let me tell you, that is still difficult to achieve 90 degrees. Do your homework on this topic.
mike does such a great job. wish you guys can do a quattro at some point
Great video very clear instructions and nicely presented
Thank you kindly!
For those that don't have a pass through socket set, get one. If you don't, an O2 sensor wrench is also a 21mm and will work to remove a strut mount nut.
💯
all work is so much easier with a lift! i dont have that opportunity
Thanks again for such a helpful diy!! Mike is one of the biggest reasons I gained confidence to get into doing diy jobs on my tt (mk3 but similar in many ways). The way Mike explains everything is very straight to the point along with very useful tips that a lot of other youtubers forget to mention. Wish you could do some projects on the tt mk3 quattro as well.. Sending love from korea!!
Thank you for the kind words; this is why we do it! Best of luck on your future endeavors, and thank you for wrenching with me.
-Mike
Brilliant video! Thank you! Just bought a TT for a weekend/DIY project and this is super handy!!!
Excellent job, well put together. Right to repair your own stuff is staying. Great tutorial!
Brilliant video pal...
Talk about over complicating the job! For the front Disconnect drop link, balljoint, undo hub bolt and bracketry, undo level sensor, spread the hub, remove the strut job done.
most videos show this way being a real pain and not possible with one person. I am new to this stuff and don't really know
Why is there such a difference in torque between the hexagon and 12-point drive shaft to wheel hub bolt? My car came with the hex, but FCP only sold the 12-point. Nice vid, but you should mention the difference more between the mag-ride cars. 🙃
Very good tutorial. Only thing was how quickly the correction for axle torque/plus rotation. Someone could miss that and seriously under tighten it. It does hold the wheel on :)
Hi great video can you do one for replacement of the front sway bar anti roll bushes on the mk2 audi tt tks
Noted!
Next diy plz 👍👍
Sure 😊
excellent info ive got to do this exact same job on my 2007 audi tt.coup.
Generally a good video except for one point. I believe that by holding the disc by putting screwdriver through the top of the caliber when tightening, or the bottom part when loosening the axle bolt you stand a chance of bending the caliber slide pins. (which are the weakest part of the system, ) much better to make sure that the caliber carrier is what takes the "200"NM torque, we can see how much the caliber moved when you did it when tightening... much better to do it on the ground (with wheel chocked). am just about to do a mk 2 front end, everything else was useful, and well described.
only observation- torque should be applied to the nut, not on the bolt!!
Correction of axle nut torque was to quick. Easy to miss and seriously under tighten the bolt that holds one of your wheels on
So I was thinking, couldn't you just loosen that bolt that clamps the strut and let the suspension sag while the strut is still in there? Losen the top 3 bolts and you're done?
Ooh and don't forget that one link attached to the shock itself
Have you done it? That is what I’m gonna attempt to do next week.
@@yousufzahid6949 no for me it turned out the level sensor was fucked and that made it spungie.
altough i think when lowering the suspension the drive shaft might hit its lowest point before you get the shock lose, idk havent tried it though
Apart from the dealership,where can I buy mag ride struts for my 2009 audi TTS?
I’ve had new track rod ends, new strut top mounts, new droplinks and there’s a knocking noise on the front passengers side - have you guys got any idea what’s causing this? Everything is tight and set to torque specs (maybe slightly beyond but not VFT)
I’ve been to two different garages and no one can work out what the cause is 😢
Hi Craig, bad control arms/ball joints can also cause a knock in the suspension, you may want to jack it up and get underneath with a prybar to try and determine where the play/noise it.
60nm...not enough I just took off my top mount and the lock nut on KW was lose and was knocking back forth and created an oval shape. So the new one I did , i used red loctite and then hit it with an impact. That isn't going anywhere.
top👍
And all that cost more than the car itself.