I really like how you go through these videos so let me start off by saying thank you and I also wanted to let you know that’s the reason why it ran better when you put the air filter box back on it’s because that’s where your vacuum goes from your engine block that helps with the vacuum for you’re fuel flow so you have to have that put on for the fuel pump to work properly
I was amazed when you found out that it was the carburetor boot to the main block the boot had a small crack that was not noticeable until you sprayed it and seen the fluid disappear into the boot I’m glad you were able to correct it and that you noticed that the air filter had to have its main cover on to allow a certain amount of air flow to allow the carburetor to run just right.
Same weird problem for me after changing out the adapter. Running lean at high rpm’s . Found the cause. I installed an aftermarket adapter from Amazon (China). Removed the adapter again and in examining the flange face the “sealing area” was nearly flat leaving little to no crush when the bolts are snugged down against the. Solid flange. Put a light coat of black high temp gasket RTV on the flange. Reinstalled and problem solved.
You said you didn't know why they use a fuel pump it's just for safety shuts the fuel off if flipped or an accident. Your video fixed my quad. Just needed air box lid. Thanks for the video
I love how you go through all that and in the summary you don't mention the part that was actually bad! Your main problem was the boot between the carb and the engine. Fitting the correct air filter and the lid on the air box helped, but that boot was the main fix.
Air filter box assembly creates more vacuum resistance thus making the air/fuel mixture more rich. Always tune with the air box lid installed for this reason.
After watching many videos, this one helped me with my Sportsman 500 . I put the cover over the filter and it made a great difference. I’ve been working on this for a long time and was about to give up. I had tried everything, much like you had done. I have always said “ look for the obvious “. Thanks for the video. I have already Subscribed.
I have successfully bypassed the fuel pump on 4 polaris atvs simply by taking the fuel line to the pump and running it directly to the carb. Gravity flow just like a Honda and it works great.
I watched this video as my Polaris had the same issue you describe. I had replaced the fuel pump, filter, hoses, spark plug as the thing has always been cold. That didn't seem to make it better. I replaced the carb and it ran good for awhile but always had that same sound yours had when you hit the throttle it would bog down and have to keep it choked. I saw your issue with that nozzle and took the thing apart and noticed the boot that connects to the carb was not connected properly. Took the nozzle off like you did and soaped up the fitting and finally got the fitting to snap on as it should on carb. Put it back together and started right up. I still did not have good vacuum from the carb prior to doing this so fuel supply from the pump was poor. Thanks for the help getting this going.
Thanks so much , I am resurrecting the same Machine here in Adelaide Australia . What an awful machine to work on , took me 2 hours to get the carby off . Your video has been a great help , and I no longe4 feel an idiot in taking so many parts off to get to the carby . Let’s hope when I get the unit fixed it will catch fire in the next fire season and save me working on it again . Thanks again , really great video .. Richard , south Australia
Thanks Richard. The first time I took one of these Polaris machines apart, I kinda felt like an idiot too. I've considered pushing more than one of them off a cliff.
Looks fantastic I just found one of these behind my neighbor's shed. She wants to sell and I need a frustrating project in my life 😂 I can only hope it turns out as good as yours. Thanks for the inspiration.
I just got my Polaris 4x4 magnum 425 back up and running. I'm running into the same issue. Glad I found your video. Will look at that inlet that goes into the head to be sure it is sealing good and the clamp that goes on the carb from that inlet, then the airbox. Dang temper mental Polaris!!!
@@ProjectTimeGarage tightened up all the clamps so I was good to go there. Airbox was good. Still was back firing. Couldn't figure it out. Would run fine without the gas tank in place. Once you put the gas tank in place it would rev real high then cut off. To make a long story short the culprit was the throttle cable. Instead of routing the cable coming underneath the gas tank from right to left, I routed it down to the frame rail then back across. problem solved. Runs like a screaming banshee now. Thanks againg for taking the time in doing this video. No matter how minute, you gained a subscrider.
Thanks man. My 2001 Polaris trail boss 325 is having the same problem. After I posted a video yesterday about mine and asking for help, today, I found your video. Lol. New stuff on the way.
Just went through the carburetor on my 330 magnum the idle jet was plugged so it wasn’t idling and had to run it on half choke so I went through the carburetor, fired it up without the airbox and it was doing the same thing like what you said so I put the box on it before I put it back together and it ran great. I guess those carburetor have to be in the closed airbox so thank you!
I just rebuilt the carb on my '01 Trail Boss 325 and having the same issue. Runs fine when cold but acts like fuel starvation when hot. I did remove the boot and REUSED it. I think replacing the boot will solve the problem.
I have a 425 magnum that I am restoring. I got it to run and idle but it would not rev up. The air box was missing the "snorkel" # 5410829 which ends in a relatively small opening to air. I noticed that if I put my hand over one of the 2 venturi openings on the air box it accelerated OK. I was told to re-jet my carb for a high air flow air box. I plan to do that but in the interim I just plugged one of the two openings to the air box and it runs just fine. I will look at the plug to see what quality of combustion I am getting. I am amazed how sensitive these machines are to the stoichiometric ratio. I would like to add just reduce the air intake while you are testing your engine and see what happens. No expense involved. wolf
Just found this video. Exactly the same problem I experienced yesterday with my 02 magnum 325 4x4. Brake cleaner at the head killed the engine, so I’ll be getting a new intake boot. And yes polaris ATVs with CV carbs do not want to run much more than an idle with the air box lid off.
I ordered a cheap one from Amazon as well. I have a hard time dropping $65 on a part that clearly can be made and sold for 20-30% of OEM. I even considered getting some fuel friendly RTV sealant and using the original part, but after 20 years, even the cheap aftermarket will probably be better than an old dry boot. I may even apply some RTV to the new one before I install it.
@@ProjectTimeGarage Just curious if you’ve had any more issues with the carb boot? Did it last for you? I have had no issues with mine, until today. It was ridden last fall, and has been sitting since (I had neck fusion surgery in February). My daughter and I went to ride today, and about 4-5 miles into the ride, and the same thing happened again. Haven’t checked to verify yet, but is acting the exact same way. Contemplating making a regular gasket to put in there…
Great video! Excellent job of editing! I've seen many videos where the subject title is focused on the problem but the video goes off on tangents not staying focused on the problem. Cheers from the Finger Lakes!
I learned about the airbox and filter the hard way also. I kept tuning a yamaha carb without the airbox and air filter on, get it running good, put it back together and it would bog out (run too rich) finally read all these atvs need the whole air system installed to run correctly. I was used to working on Mowers and minibikes where the air filter is just that a filter not a restrictor. Also i feel your struggle with the "its never a simple job" I have had 1 or 2 pieces of equipment that were something like a fuse, other than that its always some crazy off the wall thing i got to figure out. but hey in the long run it ends up being experience and you now know what to look for. The throttle box on the handlebar has a little secret aswell...Im currently working on a 700 EFI I swear there is no reason for EFI with a small engine.....complicated for no reason. good vid tho
Yeah, the box on the throttle is to prevent accidental wide open throttle. Been there, fixed that on a couple of bikes too. It seems that these days the simplest things are controlled by I/Cs
@@RuhRohRaggie069 Basically it's a small microswitch that activates as soon as you press the throttle. The idea behind it is that if the throttle cable were to stick open, letting off the thumb throttle will kill spark to the bike, basically preventing a runaway scenario.
This video was a tremendous help i have a 2005 Polaris Sportsman 400, same issue with bogging. Have'nt tested this on mine as of yet but will be in process. Although i have'nt been able to find that boot the goes from carb to cylinder? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Great videos! I love the details and have been troubleshooting a 1999 Sportsman 500. This was vary helpful and shared the same issues with the air box resulting in a good mix when off and too rich when closed. I chased my tail for weeks and your video helped me figure it out. Thank you.
Hey bud mine did the exact same thing from new. Once it warmed up it ran great. Problem was the pilot and main jet was to lean. I went 2 sizes up on the pilot and one on the main and it runs awesome now.
I haven't made it the whole way through the video yet so I don't know if you looked into it but I know the fuel pumps are pulse pumps and they run off the vacuum of the engine and I'm pretty sure the higher you rub the engine the more fuel they pump so I think I remember when I was younger being able to start a snowmobile and it would run fine but when I went to drive it it would get lean because the pump was bad it'll still have fuel pass through it but it won't pump it faster when you rub the engine
I have a Kawasaki atv that is doing the same thing. My carb is a Keihin, but almost like the Mikuni. Anyway, that Constantly velocity setup on both carbs needs just the right amount of air coming in to operate that slide valve, otherwise they run like dog crap. When they built these things they must have calculated them to the exact percentage required, no room for changes in tolerance.
This is an excellent video I'm rebuilding an 03 Trail Boss 330 with similar issues but I put air filter pod on because the airbox is missing and it did help but now I'm thinking she's still getting to much air, to say she was abused and neglected is an understatement. Thanks for the info
Hey, you just gave me an idea. On all my older cars/trucks, we have to either use zinc additive, or use diesel oil which already has high zinc in order to prevent cam lobes from wiping. Wonder if we should use the same principal on our ATVs?
Huh what do you know. I have the exact same problem on my 1996 sportsman 500 and the filter is realy realy loose. Also misses 4 out of 6 screws on that box cover. TY 🏃🏃🏃going to the garage🏃🏃🏃
@@ProjectTimeGarage I cleaned the carb (AGAIN) and ajusted it to max the gas. Then I duct taped the air filter in place and closed the box properly. Problem gone ! 😃👍🤝
Got the same problem with my Polaris 400 that I picked up on the weekend .... I think my issue is water in the fuel (the prior owner was way overzealous with washing it), but will check out other things as well - air filter, air filter box lid, kinked fuel hoses, fuel pump, etc ... the usual culprits.
Polaris has been using them pumps for years and years and years on every machine they make unless it is fuel injected and believe me they are very reliable but they were originally designed for snowmobiles or should I say they're usually very reliable hahaha
@ProjectTimeGarage I hear that. I recently purchase one of these quads. NO AIR BOX COVER! would only idle with the choke pulled out, forget about riding it... sourced a cover& gasket but no snorkel type duct coming off the lid. Did usual tune up stuff and idled great, ran great until 3/4 throttle then died. Ended up duct taping 1/3 of the hole for the snorkel closed, runs like a champion now. Obviously it's a temporary fix, until I find the snorkel piece. But the thought crossed my mind to rejett the carb a size up instead of the duct tape. I still may but I didn't feel like pulling the carb off at the time. More air +more fuel = more power and this little 325 could use some help in that dept
What was it you used in the Red Hand Sprayer? Also, is it common for the starter to drag after the machine is started? Mine does it, and was thinking the bendix was dragging
We had a Honda that worked well even when it was ancient. Then we replaced it with a new Polaris Sportsman 325. This is fuel injected. It gets very light use and good care, but when only just out of warranty the fuel pump failed. In tracing the problem we found the thing had a lousy design feature, like a stupid battery location. I suspected the injector, Eventually Dr. UA-cam helped me trace the problem to the fuel pump. New Chinese ones are rubbish, and do not make the required fuel pressure. Try to find a good Japanese one. I think if I was buying another new one, I would get Honda, or perhaps Kawasaki.
Those CV carbs can be really sensitive to air intake changes. Main jets on that one are probably so tiny that there just isn't enough margin for any extra air getting through.
If you are talking about the ones that hold the intake boot to the head, they are torqued to the moon. I ended up using an allen head driver on a 3/8 breaker bar. They make a loud pop when they come loose.
Backfire on deceleration makes me think of two things: 1. Exhaust leak - Even a tiny one is the most common issue 2. Rich condition - too much fuel. Not likely with these carbs.
@@ProjectTimeGarage The link for the carb rebuil kit you put is the same for the filter, easy mistake... just saying. Good job on the video, very informative.
How can I get in touch with you? I just bought a 325 from my buddies dad and it cranks up and immediately dies. Help please. I already tried starter fluid
Odd about that air box thing isn't. I had a older Nissan Safari that would not go unless the air filter was in place. Odd isn't it never seen the likes before or since.
@@ProjectTimeGarage Thanks for helping out on my decision. Because the I'm hesitating between two pretty clean ATVS. A 2000 Polaris 325 Magnum with 3000KM and a Kawasaki 400 KVF with 6300 KM. What would be your choice? Thanks
@@dannykimble5986 Did you get one? I have a 2004 magnum 330 4x4 and it's reliable. I just put in a carb kit and will be replacing the rubber boot from carb to airbox and also from carb to engine. Also, I just replaced the headlight switch which also has the run button on it. Mine is stuck in 4 wheel drive and I think it's the switch on the handlebars but I haven't been able to find one yet. I'm sure they're out there. Other than those common things, the 4 wheel drive works good, engine runs strong, etc. Good machine!
Not sure I bought another carb and put on it and it’s running fine now but it don’t seem like it has the power that it should have my brother n law has the same for wheeler as me and he can run off and leave me I can’t figure out what it is
Likely either the fuel pump or the needle/seat in the carb. Look at the fuel pump first. There's a "pulse" port on it that leads down to the carb. If the diaphragm in the fuel pump fails, it will allow fuel to run down that tube, which bypasses the needle/seat/float bowl and it will drain directly into the crankcase.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, YOU can NOT by pass the fuel pump!!!!!!!!!!!! IT will fill the cylinder with fuel and could drain it out on to the floor if the float is not working well...
Yeah, the fuel pump can be bypassed for short periods - it won't flood the carb. If the needle and seat aren't sealing then it'll dump too much fuel (when running) even with the pump. If the pump is bypassed, there is insufficient fuel flow out that tiny fuel valve to keep the carb fed. It'll start, run, idle and lean pop under acceleration - been there, done that.
Just so someone with an issue regarding their Polaris doesn’t waste time and money I’d like to warn that person by saying: A slight air leak around his air filter DID NOT CAUSE HIS RUNNING ISSUES. It’s far more likely if not certain the air leak on the boot between the carb and the engine caused the problem. I’m not an inexperienced key board mechanic. I have over 30 years experience in the powersports industry. Anyway, his video was very detailed, too detailed to the point your left scratching your head as to what fixed the problem. Zoom in and go into detail on that instead of detailing how to back it out of the shop and filming yourself riding it…. People are watching to troubleshoot their bike not for riding lessons
Yeah, so this isn't an instructional video at all - none of my videos are. It's about me, some dude, working on my stuff and filming what I run into. I'm sure there are WAY more talented people out there who have WAY more experience on this particular topic.
The FIRST one was made in Japan. Also, there's "Made in China" and there's Chinese knock-off. Example. iPhones are "Made in China" at an Apple manufacturing facility - says so right on the box "Designed in California" and "Made in China" and the quality is very good. On the other hand, the "Chinese" knock-off phones are garbage. I expect this boot to last 2 years...why? Because I've done this about 10 times before in my life. Experience tells me it'll fail in 2 years.
I really like how you go through these videos so let me start off by saying thank you and I also wanted to let you know that’s the reason why it ran better when you put the air filter box back on it’s because that’s where your vacuum goes from your engine block that helps with the vacuum for you’re fuel flow so you have to have that put on for the fuel pump to work properly
Yep, I've learned that the lid is a major thing on these carbs.
I was amazed when you found out that it was the carburetor boot to the main block the boot had a small crack that was not noticeable until you sprayed it and seen the fluid disappear into the boot I’m glad you were able to correct it and that you noticed that the air filter had to have its main cover on to allow a certain amount of air flow to allow the carburetor to run just right.
Carburetor cleaner will always assist in finding vacuum leaks.
This video just saved me ripping everything apart! Already been through the gas, spark ect. now I found both boots bad! Thank you!
Glad to help.
Same weird problem for me after changing out the adapter. Running lean at high rpm’s .
Found the cause. I installed an aftermarket adapter from Amazon (China). Removed the adapter again and in examining the flange face the “sealing area” was nearly flat leaving little to no crush when the bolts are snugged down against the. Solid flange. Put a light coat of black high temp gasket RTV on the flange. Reinstalled and problem solved.
Good find!
You said you didn't know why they use a fuel pump it's just for safety shuts the fuel off if flipped or an accident. Your video fixed my quad. Just needed air box lid. Thanks for the video
I'm glad my video could help you!!
I love how you go through all that and in the summary you don't mention the part that was actually bad! Your main problem was the boot between the carb and the engine.
Fitting the correct air filter and the lid on the air box helped, but that boot was the main fix.
Otherwise decent video overall.
I couldn't hear what you had in the red sprayer when washing it.
Yes, the boot was the main culprit however, I still couldn't get it to run correctly without the filter, housing and lid in place.
I typically use a mixture of Purple Power, Simple Green and a product called Oil Eater all mixed together in a less-than-measured mixture.
Air filter box assembly creates more vacuum resistance thus making the air/fuel mixture more rich. Always tune with the air box lid installed for this reason.
Yep, lesson learned the hard way. Plus the cracked intake boot didn't help matters at all.
@@ProjectTimeGarage I learned this the hard way myself. lol. Posted a response should anyone come across this type of issue.
After watching many videos, this one helped me with my Sportsman 500 . I put the cover over the filter and it made a great difference.
I’ve been working on this for a long time and was about to give up. I had tried everything, much like you had done. I have always said “ look for the obvious “. Thanks for the video. I have already Subscribed.
Great to hear!
Yes it will happen every time with a bad boot or cover Yamaha motos are the same way
I have successfully bypassed the fuel pump on 4 polaris atvs simply by taking the fuel line to the pump and running it directly to the carb. Gravity flow just like a Honda and it works great.
Man, I had a feeling that would be just fine. No idea why they used that pump and 4 miles of line.
Check the carb boot on the engine side for cracks in the rubber,if no cracks it's valve adjustment, possible ecm
I actually fixed my problem at the end of this very same video.
Thanks, man, that's what it was for mine also, the damn air box cover....
Those machines are picky.
I watched this video as my Polaris had the same issue you describe. I had replaced the fuel pump, filter, hoses, spark plug as the thing has always been cold. That didn't seem to make it better. I replaced the carb and it ran good for awhile but always had that same sound yours had when you hit the throttle it would bog down and have to keep it choked. I saw your issue with that nozzle and took the thing apart and noticed the boot that connects to the carb was not connected properly. Took the nozzle off like you did and soaped up the fitting and finally got the fitting to snap on as it should on carb. Put it back together and started right up. I still did not have good vacuum from the carb prior to doing this so fuel supply from the pump was poor. Thanks for the help getting this going.
Thanks so much , I am resurrecting the same Machine here in Adelaide Australia . What an awful machine to work on , took me 2 hours to get the carby off . Your video has been a great help , and I no longe4 feel an idiot in taking so many parts off to get to the carby . Let’s hope when I get the unit fixed it will catch fire in the next fire season and save me working on it again . Thanks again , really great video .. Richard , south Australia
Thanks Richard. The first time I took one of these Polaris machines apart, I kinda felt like an idiot too. I've considered pushing more than one of them off a cliff.
Agree - never had to take so much crap off just to get to my carb....to say nothing about getting to the fuel pump!
I'm pretty sure the reason for the pump is for safety when you roll or something like that cause it shuts off fuel from getting to the engine
Or something like that
Seems logical enough.
thanks for putting this out there! I ended up having the exact same issue and your video saved me a ton of time!
Glad it helped!
Looks fantastic I just found one of these behind my neighbor's shed. She wants to sell and I need a frustrating project in my life 😂 I can only hope it turns out as good as yours. Thanks for the inspiration.
LOL, frustrating projects ARE my life!
I just got my Polaris 4x4 magnum 425 back up and running. I'm running into the same issue. Glad I found your video. Will look at that inlet that goes into the head to be sure it is sealing good and the clamp that goes on the carb from that inlet, then the airbox. Dang temper mental Polaris!!!
Temperamental for absolute sure. They're downright picky machines.
@@ProjectTimeGarage tightened up all the clamps so I was good to go there. Airbox was good. Still was back firing. Couldn't figure it out. Would run fine without the gas tank in place. Once you put the gas tank in place it would rev real high then cut off. To make a long story short the culprit was the throttle cable. Instead of routing the cable coming underneath the gas tank from right to left, I routed it down to the frame rail then back across. problem solved. Runs like a screaming banshee now. Thanks againg for taking the time in doing this video. No matter how minute, you gained a subscrider.
@@phil9171 Glad you got it worked out - Welcome aboard!!
@@phil9171
Thanks man. My 2001 Polaris trail boss 325 is having the same problem. After I posted a video yesterday about mine and asking for help, today, I found your video. Lol. New stuff on the way.
Just subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to seeing it fixed!
Just went through the carburetor on my 330 magnum the idle jet was plugged so it wasn’t idling and had to run it on half choke so I went through the carburetor, fired it up without the airbox and it was doing the same thing like what you said so I put the box on it before I put it back together and it ran great. I guess those carburetor have to be in the closed airbox so thank you!
Yeah, they are sensitive to airflow an vacuum.
It could be a dirty tank or petcock but look at your gas cap and make sure it's not vapor locking
Check out the end of the video - Turned out to be a crack in the carb boot as the major culprit.
I liked the way you fast forward yourself putting it together lol 😂
Yeah, that stuff gets tedious to watch.
have the same problem thanks for the video
Glad it helped
I just rebuilt the carb on my '01 Trail Boss 325 and having the same issue. Runs fine when cold but acts like fuel starvation when hot. I did remove the boot and REUSED it. I think replacing the boot will solve the problem.
Very possible.
I have a 425 magnum that I am restoring. I got it to run and idle but it would not rev up. The air box was missing the "snorkel" # 5410829 which ends in a relatively small opening to air. I noticed that if I put my hand over one of the 2 venturi openings on the air box it accelerated OK. I was told to re-jet my carb for a high air flow air box. I plan to do that but in the interim I just plugged one of the two openings to the air box and it runs just fine. I will look at the plug to see what quality of combustion I am getting. I am amazed how sensitive these machines are to the stoichiometric ratio. I would like to add just reduce the air intake while you are testing your engine and see what happens. No expense involved. wolf
Thanks for the input. Those carbs are finicky as can be.
I’m trying to work on my sportsman 450 - great video thanks 👍
No problem 👍
Just found this video. Exactly the same problem I experienced yesterday with my 02 magnum 325 4x4. Brake cleaner at the head killed the engine, so I’ll be getting a new intake boot. And yes polaris ATVs with CV carbs do not want to run much more than an idle with the air box lid off.
Hopefully my cheap boot will hold out a while. I Should have gone straight to the dealer for one, but Amazon was the fastest option.
I ordered a cheap one from Amazon as well. I have a hard time dropping $65 on a part that clearly can be made and sold for 20-30% of OEM. I even considered getting some fuel friendly RTV sealant and using the original part, but after 20 years, even the cheap aftermarket will probably be better than an old dry boot. I may even apply some RTV to the new one before I install it.
@@jimallen7277 I figure for the cost savings I can just replace it every couple of years and still be ahead.
Have someone scan the part and print it out with a 3d printer
@@ProjectTimeGarage
Just curious if you’ve had any more issues with the carb boot? Did it last for you?
I have had no issues with mine, until today. It was ridden last fall, and has been sitting since (I had neck fusion surgery in February). My daughter and I went to ride today, and about 4-5 miles into the ride, and the same thing happened again. Haven’t checked to verify yet, but is acting the exact same way. Contemplating making a regular gasket to put in there…
Great video! Excellent job of editing! I've seen many videos where the subject title is focused on the problem but the video goes off on tangents not staying focused on the problem. Cheers from the Finger Lakes!
Those type videos drive me crazy too. I catch myself blabbing too much from time to time, but I try to keep my focus.
¹is the
I learned about the airbox and filter the hard way also. I kept tuning a yamaha carb without the airbox and air filter on, get it running good, put it back together and it would bog out (run too rich) finally read all these atvs need the whole air system installed to run correctly. I was used to working on Mowers and minibikes where the air filter is just that a filter not a restrictor. Also i feel your struggle with the "its never a simple job" I have had 1 or 2 pieces of equipment that were something like a fuse, other than that its always some crazy off the wall thing i got to figure out. but hey in the long run it ends up being experience and you now know what to look for. The throttle box on the handlebar has a little secret aswell...Im currently working on a 700 EFI I swear there is no reason for EFI with a small engine.....complicated for no reason. good vid tho
Yeah, the box on the throttle is to prevent accidental wide open throttle. Been there, fixed that on a couple of bikes too. It seems that these days the simplest things are controlled by I/Cs
@@ProjectTimeGarage OK, I got to ask, What the secret in Thumb Throttle box I have a 08 400HO sportsman
@@RuhRohRaggie069 Basically it's a small microswitch that activates as soon as you press the throttle. The idea behind it is that if the throttle cable were to stick open, letting off the thumb throttle will kill spark to the bike, basically preventing a runaway scenario.
Very informational video and 100% true/accurate. Also works for a 300 hawkeye 2x4
Awesome thanks!!
I have the same problem so this film was excellent thank you for doing them.
Nice, glad to be of help!!
right u gotta have air box cap on because it changes the ratio if its not on
Yep!
This video was a tremendous help i have a 2005 Polaris Sportsman 400, same issue with bogging. Have'nt tested this on mine as of yet but will be in process. Although i have'nt been able to find that boot the goes from carb to cylinder? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
i have an Amazon link in the video description where you can buy the boot.
Great videos! I love the details and have been troubleshooting a 1999 Sportsman 500. This was vary helpful and shared the same issues with the air box resulting in a good mix when off and too rich when closed. I chased my tail for weeks and your video helped me figure it out. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
What was it ?
great detective work. your good at that
Thanks!!
The vacuum activated slide won’t rise open to open the main jet with the lack of vacuum without the air box being installed.
👍
SOMEONE WAS IN THERE WITH YOU IN THIS REPAIR. THEY MOVED THE GEAR SHIFT STICK.
My shop is haunted.
Hey bud mine did the exact same thing from new. Once it warmed up it ran great. Problem was the pilot and main jet was to lean. I went 2 sizes up on the pilot and one on the main and it runs awesome now.
Thanks, mine turned to be the cracked intake boot.
I haven't made it the whole way through the video yet so I don't know if you looked into it but I know the fuel pumps are pulse pumps and they run off the vacuum of the engine and I'm pretty sure the higher you rub the engine the more fuel they pump so I think I remember when I was younger being able to start a snowmobile and it would run fine but when I went to drive it it would get lean because the pump was bad it'll still have fuel pass through it but it won't pump it faster when you rub the engine
Yeah, ended up being a cracked intake boot at the end of the day.
I have a Kawasaki atv that is doing the same thing. My carb is a Keihin, but almost like the Mikuni. Anyway, that Constantly velocity setup on both carbs needs just the right amount of air coming in to operate that slide valve, otherwise they run like dog crap. When they built these things they must have calculated them to the exact percentage required, no room for changes in tolerance.
Yeah, they're picky. I much prefer the Mikuni carbs too. Mainly because I'm more familiar with them and they're wey more forgiving.
@@ProjectTimeGarage Definitely!
This is an excellent video I'm rebuilding an 03 Trail Boss 330 with similar issues but I put air filter pod on because the airbox is missing and it did help but now I'm thinking she's still getting to much air, to say she was abused and neglected is an understatement. Thanks for the info
Thanks, good luck with the TrailBoss!
May have just stopped from commeting sue a side......THANKS
325 TRAIL BOSS...
Looks like you need a new steering yoke bushing.
Yep, done already!
After I watch your video I think my Polaris trail boss 330 is going to run again after 3 year not running because the lid thanks for the help
Glad I could help
Damn I have almost the same problem. But mine does that only when you accelerate then it just goes and works great.
Weird.
my 2000 scrambler did exact same thing ..........soft cam lobes they are known for it
Luckily the carb boot fixed mine. It's been running very well for several months now.
Hey, you just gave me an idea. On all my older cars/trucks, we have to either use zinc additive, or use diesel oil which already has high zinc in order to prevent cam lobes from wiping. Wonder if we should use the same principal on our ATVs?
Make a video of removing the fuel tank on a 2006 Polaris Sportsman HO, as your video,s are very good.
If I had one I sure would.
Huh what do you know.
I have the exact same problem on my 1996 sportsman 500 and the filter is realy realy loose. Also misses 4 out of 6 screws on that box cover.
TY
🏃🏃🏃going to the garage🏃🏃🏃
Cool. hope it works out for you.
@@ProjectTimeGarage
I cleaned the carb (AGAIN) and ajusted it to max the gas.
Then I duct taped the air filter in place and closed the box properly.
Problem gone !
😃👍🤝
Great info, keep up the awesome work !
Appreciate it!
Got the same problem with my Polaris 400 that I picked up on the weekend .... I think my issue is water in the fuel (the prior owner was way overzealous with washing it), but will check out other things as well - air filter, air filter box lid, kinked fuel hoses, fuel pump, etc ... the usual culprits.
Usual culprits.....yep, been there.
Would you confirm how many screws out you settled on for the air mixture screw? You started at 2.5 out…. Thanks
It was just a touch under 2.5 - maybe 2.25ish
How did you figure out you wasn't getting enough fuel , you got a video on that diagnosis I'd appreciate it
There is a video before this one with some troubleshooting I did.
Mine did the same ended up being the switch in the throttle housing on the bars.
Had that same problem on a Magnum 425 a few years back.
Just started watching. I want to predict my guess: the gasket between the carb & inlet leaking air in somewhere...
Yeah, you basically nailed it.
I have the same machine .. after warming up will bog down and idle rough and eventually die .. any ideas?? Thank you
Fuel starvation? Check fuel flow from the pump
Polaris has been using them pumps for years and years and years on every machine they make unless it is fuel injected and believe me they are very reliable but they were originally designed for snowmobiles or should I say they're usually very reliable hahaha
I just wonder why they didn't use gravity like all the Japanese bikes.
I couldn’t tell what kind of fluid you used for the metal ?
It was Eagle One Mag Wheel Cleaner. Available at all auto parts stores, and probably Wal-Mart too.
I know I'm late to the party here but wouldn't rejetting the carb a size or 2 up(more flow) let it run without the air filter cover ?
Techincally, probably so. I went down a rabbit hole of trying to re-jet one of these CV carbs back a few years ago. That's why I'm bald today.
@ProjectTimeGarage I hear that. I recently purchase one of these quads. NO AIR BOX COVER! would only idle with the choke pulled out, forget about riding it... sourced a cover& gasket but no snorkel type duct coming off the lid. Did usual tune up stuff and idled great, ran great until 3/4 throttle then died. Ended up duct taping 1/3 of the hole for the snorkel closed, runs like a champion now. Obviously it's a temporary fix, until I find the snorkel piece. But the thought crossed my mind to rejett the carb a size up instead of the duct tape. I still may but I didn't feel like pulling the carb off at the time. More air +more fuel = more power and this little 325 could use some help in that dept
I like your detail on your quad that gave me ideas of my Polaris sportsman magnum 325
Awesome, good luck with it!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
No problem
What was it you used in the Red Hand Sprayer?
Also, is it common for the starter to drag after the machine is started? Mine does it, and was thinking the bendix was dragging
I have a "witches brew" of stuff in there. Simple Green, Purple Power, Oil-Eater and a little bit of Dawn. It sure works though.
My 97 polaris xplorer doesnt have a fuel pump. Seems like a 4stroke thing with polaris.
I had an older 2 stroke Polaris too. It also didn't have a pump.
I've got a 2004 Polaris Magnum 330 and was told it had fuel getting into the air box, but it has a new carburetor. Any ideas?
Has to be carb overflowing.
Mira la aguja del carburador y los soportes que lleva
Gracias!
We had a Honda that worked well even when it was ancient. Then we replaced it with a new Polaris Sportsman 325. This is fuel injected. It gets very light use and good care, but when only just out of warranty the fuel pump failed. In tracing the problem we found the thing had a lousy design feature, like a stupid battery location. I suspected the injector, Eventually Dr. UA-cam helped me trace the problem to the fuel pump. New Chinese ones are rubbish, and do not make the required fuel pressure. Try to find a good Japanese one. I think if I was buying another new one, I would get Honda, or perhaps Kawasaki.
I agree, on the Chinese pumps along with a lot of other stuff.
What years did polaris make the 325 mag the 330 mag and the 500 mag and what is the better machine the 500 mag or the 330 mag?
Not sure on exact years. Wikipedia would have at least some info. I have a Polaris 6x6 with the 500magnum on it. It's a STRONG machine for what it is.
So did you leave the fuel pump bypassed
No, I didn't - I ended up putting it back in service.
Great video
Thanks for the visit
Why is my polaris 325 pumping fuel from the hose on the head into the air filter compartment
Fuel pump diaphram is busted, almost guarantee it.
What about the 2003 Magnum 330? Does it do the same ?
Probably so. Polaris didn't change very much between models and years.
Those CV carbs can be really sensitive to air intake changes. Main jets on that one are probably so tiny that there just isn't enough margin for any extra air getting through.
Yeah, sensitive is an understatement. Downright finicky.
How in hell were you able to remove the bolts from the air intake? Mine wont budge!!!
If you are talking about the ones that hold the intake boot to the head, they are torqued to the moon. I ended up using an allen head driver on a 3/8 breaker bar. They make a loud pop when they come loose.
I have the same atv except mine is a 425 and runs fine except while I’m driving it and let off the throttle it back fires do you have any ideas
Backfire on deceleration makes me think of two things:
1. Exhaust leak - Even a tiny one is the most common issue
2. Rich condition - too much fuel. Not likely with these carbs.
Currently having the same problem and did everything you did came to the same problem do you have a part number or link to that. boot?
Oops, oversight on my part! I just updated the video description with links to all the parts I used.
@@ProjectTimeGarage The link for the carb rebuil kit you put is the same for the filter, easy mistake... just saying. Good job on the video, very informative.
Thanks for catching that. Updated with the correct link!!
I've had problems with scooter s like this and it was the exhaust was plugged up
I had the same thing happen (plugged exhaust) on a Spree in one of my other videos.
Hey man got the same problem with my 325 magnum?
Good luck on your project!!
Good part 2
Thanks!
How can I get in touch with you? I just bought a 325 from my buddies dad and it cranks up and immediately dies. Help please. I already tried starter fluid
Shoot me an e-mail: projecttimegarage@outlook.com
@@ProjectTimeGarage sent
Odd about that air box thing isn't.
I had a older Nissan Safari that would not go unless the air filter was in place.
Odd isn't it never seen the likes before or since.
Yeah, I work on a lot of stuff and I've only ran across this on the Polaris machines from the 90's and 2000's.
bogging sounds like too much fuel?
Yep, not enough air/too rich
Hi all. Is this Polaris a very reliable atv, or a piece of crap? Thanks
They are actually really good machines.
@@ProjectTimeGarage Thanks for helping out on my decision. Because the I'm hesitating between two pretty clean ATVS. A 2000 Polaris 325 Magnum with 3000KM and a Kawasaki 400 KVF with 6300 KM. What would be your choice? Thanks
@@Daniel-xq7ny Honestly, either is good. I would probably lean toward the Polaris just because of mileage, but that's just me.
@@Daniel-xq7ny POLARIS HANDS DOWN .FAIRLY EASY TO MAINTAIN AND PARTS ONLINE ARE DIRT CHEAP .
@@Daniel-xq7ny Which one did you get? My son has a 2000 Polaris 325 trail boss and it's a very good and reliable machine, and easy to work on.
Are magnum 325 4x4 reliable thinking about getting a 2002
Yes, they're pretty good machines for sure.
@@ProjectTimeGarage what like mainly goes wrong with them
@@dannykimble5986 Did you get one? I have a 2004 magnum 330 4x4 and it's reliable. I just put in a carb kit and will be replacing the rubber boot from carb to airbox and also from carb to engine. Also, I just replaced the headlight switch which also has the run button on it. Mine is stuck in 4 wheel drive and I think it's the switch on the handlebars but I haven't been able to find one yet. I'm sure they're out there. Other than those common things, the 4 wheel drive works good, engine runs strong, etc. Good machine!
Mine does the opposite put the lid on runs like crap
Wow, that's crazy. Is there a restriction somewhere?
Not sure I bought another carb and put on it and it’s running fine now but it don’t seem like it has the power that it should have my brother n law has the same for wheeler as me and he can run off and leave me I can’t figure out what it is
Very good 👍
Thank you 👍
My gas ends up in the oil when I leave it sitting anyone have any answers why Could it be the fuel pump?
Likely either the fuel pump or the needle/seat in the carb. Look at the fuel pump first. There's a "pulse" port on it that leads down to the carb. If the diaphragm in the fuel pump fails, it will allow fuel to run down that tube, which bypasses the needle/seat/float bowl and it will drain directly into the crankcase.
I just got one of these and it's having a similar issue. What air filter did you end up getting for it?
This is the one I got. Seems to work fine. amzn.to/3aDzWWH
@@ProjectTimeGarage sweet. Thank you.
increase main jet size
Cracked boot and airbox lid sorted it out.
its got an aftermarket air cleaner. you must re jet it.
Yep, you're 100% right.
Cdi box
What about it?
One teat lower
Mabye two.
Them things older than dirt bet they made a million of them
Yeah, probably so
@@ProjectTimeGarage Like anything else they are fun 2 ride
@@louismays7810 yep
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, YOU can NOT by pass the fuel pump!!!!!!!!!!!! IT will fill the cylinder with fuel and could drain it out on to the floor if the float is not working well...
Yeah, the fuel pump can be bypassed for short periods - it won't flood the carb. If the needle and seat aren't sealing then it'll dump too much fuel (when running) even with the pump. If the pump is bypassed, there is insufficient fuel flow out that tiny fuel valve to keep the carb fed. It'll start, run, idle and lean pop under acceleration - been there, done that.
Just so someone with an issue regarding their Polaris doesn’t waste time and money I’d like to warn that person by saying: A slight air leak around his air filter DID NOT CAUSE HIS RUNNING ISSUES. It’s far more likely if not certain the air leak on the boot between the carb and the engine caused the problem. I’m not an inexperienced key board mechanic. I have over 30 years experience in the powersports industry. Anyway, his video was very detailed, too detailed to the point your left scratching your head as to what fixed the problem. Zoom in and go into detail on that instead of detailing how to back it out of the shop and filming yourself riding it…. People are watching to troubleshoot their bike not for riding lessons
Yeah, so this isn't an instructional video at all - none of my videos are. It's about me, some dude, working on my stuff and filming what I run into. I'm sure there are WAY more talented people out there who have WAY more experience on this particular topic.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The FIRST one was made in china soo what the Hell...?????
The FIRST one was made in Japan. Also, there's "Made in China" and there's Chinese knock-off. Example. iPhones are "Made in China" at an Apple manufacturing facility - says so right on the box "Designed in California" and "Made in China" and the quality is very good. On the other hand, the "Chinese" knock-off phones are garbage. I expect this boot to last 2 years...why? Because I've done this about 10 times before in my life. Experience tells me it'll fail in 2 years.