I think someone clever once said _If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?_ .. I wouldnt worry too much about the state of the shop;)
After pricing cabinets a couple years ago I bought a Laguna cabinet saw. I love it, but as it’s my first table saw ever I’m kinda like a virgin who thinks his first lay is epic but doesn’t have anything to compare it to. 😊
Nice addition to the shop. I think the important thing with run-out, alignment etc. is to know what they actually are - as you did after checking, measuring etc..
I get all my tools at auctions, where you can sometimes get fantastic deals. I have an Oerlikon UB2 drill, and a unique feature of it is you can rotate the head 360 degree, such that you can get the quill pointing up, to do upside down drilling. The whole head also rotates 360 degrees from left to right. It's a bench top drill but weighs in at around 1400 lbs. Was made in Switzerland sometime in the 70s.
I wish you a lot of fun with the new drill press. I saw people improving the rigidity of their cheap drill presses by attaching the top to the wall with a board or a pipe.
Great video, I bought the Powermatic a couple years ago, no complains. This looks like a very nice machine. I like some of the features the Laguna has over the Powermatic. My table is finicky to keep in square. I like the positive stop that you have on this one. I can't stress enough how important it is to have a high quality drill press in my shop. Having variable speed without changing belts is a very useful feature. I don't know if you ever worked with plastics, but if you ever need to drill extremely precise holes in plastic, 3000 RPM works really well. Especially if you buy the tapered plastic specific bits from Crackmaster. I figured you'd have to throw away the junk chuck, although Powermatic did include a Jacobs chuck. But I also purchased the precision taper shafts from McMasterbate, along with a couple keyless chucks that tend to work really well, except do not try to use them with a hole saw. Have fun with your new machine.
@@getdirecti0ns That's a good question, I didn't need to lubricate the glass reinforced plastic I needed to drill with the special tapered drill bits I purchased.
@@getdirecti0nsbuy plastic drilling bits. Acrylic is very brittle. It will break out at the back of the hole. Use a slow speed and moderate pressure. Lubricants don’t always help. Some can result in cracking.
You might try replacing the arbor. I had a similar issue on my drill press when I put on a keyless chuck and it turned out the chuck side of the arbor was slightly out of round so when the chuck was installed it was a bit “hit or miss”. I replaced the arbor and it went from +/- 0.015 to +/- 0.001.
I agree that the chuck should be much better but 2000 for a drill press can be seen as low-end if you look at the likes of Flott and similar. That said, Flott are for metal workers where the tolerance must be more tigher.
You’re not going to include a $300 to $500 chuck with a $2,000 machine. That’s ridiculous. Every company gives these cheaper Chinese chucks. You may get a decent one and you may not.
See if you can find " ROHM" chuck somewhere and order it. They have different levels of accuracy for sale, but even the cheapest ones are pretty much better than any stock chucks on any drill.
I was just scrolling through the Laguna website and think that next you should unbox the Laguna CNC Ice Carver. (For ice sculptures). It’s a little pricey at $29K but it’d be great content. 😂
Personally what annoys me with most manufacturers is not having a dedicated place to put manuals and the receipt of the product. For example these bandsaw. Massive top and bottom access doors. Perfect place.
I just bought the Voyager, I did look at the specs of the DP20 and my biggest concern was it uses a brushed motor vs a brushless motor in the Voyager. That was my deciding point and to be honest I was nervous about being a beta tester for them as well. As you pointed out being the first adopters can have it's issues. Two features that stood out to me with the DP20, the table tilts to 90 degrees and the one revolution for 6" of quill travel. Those are features I wished the Voyager had. Table size wasn't significant enough for me to worry about. Besides I'm putting a table over mine with a fence. Thanks for the review! I hope it works great for you.
Thanks for the reply. I debated the brushless thing too. Being primarily a one man shop I hope it is a long time before I have any issues. Nova seemed like the tried and tested option, and Powermatic was feeling a bit budget constraining.
You mentioned getting a keyless chuck. I have a voyager and purchased a keyless chuck for it. I was surprised that I had to turn on a software activated brake to lock the chuck to tighten the chuck. The brake only operates for 15 seconds or so before it releases. DP makes me race to change the drill bit. It's really annoying when installing small drill bits as they don't go in straight the first time. Just something to consider.
Adding an adjustable support under the table is a must for most any bench top drill press. You will probably find that the Laguna will need to have the table supported also. Even a floor model drill press will have flex problems. Especially if you are trying to drill into steel or aluminum. If you don't want flex you should have bought a Bridgeport mill.
I don't think that chuck is "made in house" - the drill press I have, which is a generic import one from the 80's has a chuck that looks exactly the same on it, and it has terrible runout. I've not checked yet if it's just the chuck or something else.
Chuck Precision (Runout Tolerance) Jacobs keyed drill chucks generally have high concentricity and low runout error. Runout Tolerance: Typically 0.002" (0.0508mm or less).
I'd expect a cobalt-steel drill bit to be as straight and precisely round as that linear-motion shaft, and the bit, near the shank, appeared to show about .002"-.0025" of total indicated runout--not all _that_ bad for an import chuck of unknown but likely middling quality, but, still, much more than you should have to tolerate. Importantly, when you indicated on the arbor it showed no runout, which suggests that the drivetrain is sound, at least in terms of concentricity (you really need to indicate on the _inside_ of the arbor, with the chuck removed, to gauge it). The arbor and components north of it become much more troublesome to correct, whereas the only thing south of the arbor, the chuck, is diagnosed and replaced fairly easily. Fortunately, the chuck appears to be the culprit here. But I'd strongly recommend replacing the chuck in any case. I replaced mine a few years ago, installing an Albrecht keyless in place of a standard Jacobs keyed chuck. Like you, I'd wanted to switch to a keyless model for a good while, just for sake of convenience, but I decided to undertake the operation when, after a few years of somewhat unsatisfactory performance, I detected some runout that upon close inspection was revealed to be the consequence of minor damage to one of the jaws. (The drill was ex-school-shop-class equipment. Who knows what it experienced in its time.) I knew the keyless chuck would be an improvement, but it transformed the ease and speed of use utterly, way beyond my expectations. I was only sorry I hadn't done it sooner. The difference is so significant that I'd urge you to upgrade the chuck now. The very first time you use it you will immediately recognize just how much drudgery the keyed chuck entailed. The time it takes to perform multi-bit operations, especially, will be cut in half. By the way, the new (to me) chuck eliminated the runout I'd observed with the old chuck, so that it was less than .001" at the distal end of a 5"-long bit. Albrechts are expensive, as you note, but I got mine on eBay, lightly used, for a great deal--between $50-$100 if I remember correctly. That was about five years ago, and things may have changed now, but at the time there were lots of deals to be had. I suppose you do take the risk that a used chuck has a flaw which, though only very slight, is enough to induce significant runout. But I considered the risk tolerable, and your judgment is very probably keen enough to assess the likely condition of a chuck based on its appearance and description. Additionally, you can even make arrangements with a seller as to the potential return of the item if it isn't within spec. It doesn't need to be an Albrecht, though; there are other reputable brands, like Röhm and Jacobs, which you can usually find cheaper, and there are also imports of reliably good quality.
@@melgross Centerless ground? I actually have a couple carbide rods around, from McMaster as well, as it happens, but I don't recall how _precision_ they are. I use them for turning a burr on card scrapers.
I guess my main concern would be electronics and their expected lifespan. Mechanical things are much easier to deal with twenty years from now as opposed to trying to find a replacement for an outdated electronic component.
To bad the rod didn't have the MT on it to check the accuracy of the internal taper. Hard to nail down if it's the spindle, adapter or the chuck. That table looks like it has more iron in it than my drill press table and table saw combined. Great looking/functioning drill press all said.
I'm exactly the same when it comes down to purchasing tool's and pretty much anything else, i alway's wait a few months before buying for the exact same reasons as you said, and here i thought it was just me who's mind worked that way 🤔🤪😂.
id get a used bridgeport for 2k, would definitely be more accurate than that lol. also those digital indicators seem awful for trying to measure ranges, you cant see the needle going back and forth.
What was that sound 🤔 it sounds like the shaft has a slight defect and it is actually catching on something as it spins, not sure I'd be able to be happy having heard that sound. If anything I'd be contacting Laguna and asking about it 🤔, especially when you pay a King's randsom for these machines!!! I hear what you say at the end of your video but in all honesty the amount of money that we are having to spend on these machines they should work correctly right out of the box 😠. Yes it's not too big of an issue but it shouldn't be an issue whatsoever for the money you've spent. This is one thing that really gets my goat with all the companies selling products that basically we need as woodworkers. It almost feels like oh well it's not exactly right but it's good enough!!!
It's great that the touchscreen works with gloves, but I would never have a glove on near a drill press. Anything spinning. I've seen someone feed their gloved hand around a mill chuck. Didn't even have a cutter in it. Didn't matter. Twern't purty.
Chucks are usualy not accurate and most I have used have that wobble, maybe some more expensive ones for mills are better but if you want to be sure, a collet system is the best.
Why are you testing the outer shell/sleeve of the chuck? It is only for tightening, it has nothing to do with precision, and he always wobbles. Instead, you should test the inner part/body and put the indicator below 3 keyholes. The inner part is the fixed part of the chuck, and he is the one to tell accuracy. If the body is precise, you have a perfectly fine chuck. If you need really precise drilling, the next thing is to pay attention when closing the chuck so that the jaws are all out/in the same amount before tightening. And use all 3 holes, not just one. Because they usually have some play up and down. And if, even after that, you still have some play, then you should touch the yaws in the lathe with a diamond rod. There is another way without lathe, but when I see how you're testing the chuck, you should probably buy another chuck, and use this one for heavy work.
Just simplifying; just get a precision pin, put it in the chuck, tighten properly and test with an indicator,with magnetic base, which everyone should have. Check the runout that way. Forget about measuring the rest of the chuck. The only thing that matters is the concentricity of what’s in the chuck. It’s like testing a three jaw lathe chuck. People test the concentricity of the outer chuck body. While that’s nice, it doesn’t tell anything about how well the scroll is made, or whether the jaws were ground in place or not. Fir me, the first thing I would do is to but a good chuck. Good to see he did that as well.
It’s a drill not a mill! Drill/ Jacob’s chucks have runout of 10-30 thou! The electronics at the top back is the digital speed controller. Keep these components clear of dust to ensure proper cooling of heat sink and high draw triads and rectifiers.
What you want out of a drill press is warranted but, the question you need to ask yourself is, I'm I a toolmaker or a wood shop carpenter. Buy a better chuck.
Complains about inclusion of hex keys, immediately uses the conveniently included hex keys to assemble the tool. Hears newly assembled untested tool making concerning sound at low speed on initial startup, turns up to maximum speed. We are the same 😂
The weight of the base is less important than the design. Even if it weighed a hundred pounds it wouldn’t matter if it were too small for stability. I’m sure there will be people who complain if those hex wrenches weren’t supplied; “At the price of this tool they couldn’t have given us the wrenches to put it together?” Better to just give them. It probably cost them a whole fraction of a dollar. Anyway, this isn’t an industrial tool. It’s a prosumer drill press. If people want to make sure all the parts are of really high quality, then expect to spend well over $3,000. Don’t EVER use gloves with ANY rotating tool. NEVER!!! That’s one of the most dangerous things that can be done. Yes, I know that there will always be one or two people who will say they’ve been doing it for years and they’re ok. Well, good luck to them. Not wearing gloves is like getting insurance. You hope you don’t need it, but for all the years you don’t, it only takes one time you do to make it worthwhile. Having your fingers torn off just once wearing gloves is enough to have made the convenience of all the other times not worth it. Just remember that a drill press is not a precision drilling machine unless it weighs 500 pounds or more.
Do not use gloves with a drill press ever. I’ve known two guys that were severely injured, one lost his arm and the other almost did and he has very limited use. Both of them knew not to wear gloves but failed to recognize the dangers. Loose clothing is also a no, no. I’m not sue why your so concern with the precision, it’s a drill press. If you need precision get a mill. Happy woodworking
The fact that the chuck undermines the precision of the machine is a huge disappointment. I think that you should contact the manufacturer. Please do a follow-up if you do. The awkwardness of leveling the table would frustrate me to no end. Instead of a simple pin, it could have used detent balls for 0°, 45°, and 90°. That design has proven to be remarkably accurate in other applications. Now I want to see what other manufacturers do. I will be sure to pay close attention to that feature when I replace my old piece of junk. Finally, the use of the touch screen worries me. I would rather analogue controls for the fundamentals - on, off, light, speed up, speed down. When, not if, the display fails, I can still judge the speed by feel or, if necessary, using a $25 handheld tachometer. I was wondering how you were going to get the crate off your truck. That was fun to watch.
You've got to wonder about the intelligence of those in charge of company's these days. I know, we'll make a half decent drill press, then, we'll give them a ridiculously cheap chuck at the front end that undoes our entire drill press. Yes, I know you can change it but in the quantities they would buy them, it would cost them an extra 5 quid!!! Better not to add a chuck at all!!!
This wobble is not acceptable. I would have liked to know the answer of the manufacturer, particularly since the machine seems to be ok and it's just the chuck that is bad.
Jeez. You complain about a 3/1000 runoff. Are you making parts for nasa…? And why do you care about the runoff on the outside of the chuck? It’s completely irrelevant. The important thing besides the shaft is what you get at the end of the bit. Metal can warp over time so you might have the most precise machine but if your bits are shot then you’re SOL.
This guy has no idea what he is doing with that chuck or dial indicator ….bro just buy a bridge port if your trying to get a cheap drill press to be precision
![Bosch PBD 40 Drill Press First Look [video 597]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/x6C0KYBjxLs/mqdefault.jpg)
I think someone clever once said _If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?_ .. I wouldnt worry too much about the state of the shop;)
Trying to make me feel better about my disaster huh? Haha
After pricing cabinets a couple years ago I bought a Laguna cabinet saw. I love it, but as it’s my first table saw ever I’m kinda like a virgin who thinks his first lay is epic but doesn’t have anything to compare it to. 😊
Love that the lever can be fitted to the left or right hand side.
A precise spindel needs a presice chuck, like an Albrecht
Nice addition to the shop. I think the important thing with run-out, alignment etc. is to know what they actually are - as you did after checking, measuring etc..
I get all my tools at auctions, where you can sometimes get fantastic deals. I have an Oerlikon UB2 drill, and a unique feature of it is you can rotate the head 360 degree, such that you can get the quill pointing up, to do upside down drilling. The whole head also rotates 360 degrees from left to right. It's a bench top drill but weighs in at around 1400 lbs. Was made in Switzerland sometime in the 70s.
Second hand is the way to go. I make almost a living out of it with reselling
I wish you a lot of fun with the new drill press. I saw people improving the rigidity of their cheap drill presses by attaching the top to the wall with a board or a pipe.
You should have your DTI set with the probe at 90 degrees to the surface for best test accuracy
Great deep dive video!!
Did you end up replacing the chuck? I just ordered the this drill press, and am thinking about getting a keyless chuck for it.
Great video, I bought the Powermatic a couple years ago, no complains. This looks like a very nice machine. I like some of the features the Laguna has over the Powermatic. My table is finicky to keep in square. I like the positive stop that you have on this one. I can't stress enough how important it is to have a high quality drill press in my shop. Having variable speed without changing belts is a very useful feature. I don't know if you ever worked with plastics, but if you ever need to drill extremely precise holes in plastic, 3000 RPM works really well. Especially if you buy the tapered plastic specific bits from Crackmaster. I figured you'd have to throw away the junk chuck, although Powermatic did include a Jacobs chuck. But I also purchased the precision taper shafts from McMasterbate, along with a couple keyless chucks that tend to work really well, except do not try to use them with a hole saw. Have fun with your new machine.
Do you run any lubricant on the plastic drilling? Cast Acrylic specifically
@@getdirecti0ns That's a good question, I didn't need to lubricate the glass reinforced plastic I needed to drill with the special tapered drill bits I purchased.
@@getdirecti0nsbuy plastic drilling bits. Acrylic is very brittle. It will break out at the back of the hole. Use a slow speed and moderate pressure. Lubricants don’t always help. Some can result in cracking.
very good video - I fully get your obsessiveness and you explained things really well.
You might try replacing the arbor. I had a similar issue on my drill press when I put on a keyless chuck and it turned out the chuck side of the arbor was slightly out of round so when the chuck was installed it was a bit “hit or miss”. I replaced the arbor and it went from +/- 0.015 to +/- 0.001.
Great video. Thanks. Unrelated to the drill, what is the cart you use with the lift?
As a product design director, you are 80% correct simply because we cannot test for all the insane things people do.
in my opinion for a $2000 min Drill press it should come with a ultra precise keyless chuck
I agree that the chuck should be much better but 2000 for a drill press can be seen as low-end if you look at the likes of Flott and similar. That said, Flott are for metal workers where the tolerance must be more tigher.
lol. It was $2000 of junk. Not even an upgrade from the old jet. How you like that squealing?
You’re not going to include a $300 to $500 chuck with a $2,000 machine. That’s ridiculous. Every company gives these cheaper Chinese chucks. You may get a decent one and you may not.
See if you can find " ROHM" chuck somewhere and order it. They have different levels of accuracy for sale, but even the cheapest ones are pretty much better than any stock chucks on any drill.
I got an old German Flott machine. 300 pounds - and excelling here
I was just scrolling through the Laguna website and think that next you should unbox the Laguna CNC Ice Carver. (For ice sculptures). It’s a little pricey at $29K but it’d be great content. 😂
Good Stuff! I was unaware of the Laguna drill press.
Personally what annoys me with most manufacturers is not having a dedicated place to put manuals and the receipt of the product. For example these bandsaw. Massive top and bottom access doors. Perfect place.
Love the table and the built in light, very nice. I think it would be much more stable if you take it off the mobile base and bolt it to the floor.
Thats the plan as soon as I get the rest of the shop put back together. Thanks!
I just bought the Voyager, I did look at the specs of the DP20 and my biggest concern was it uses a brushed motor vs a brushless motor in the Voyager. That was my deciding point and to be honest I was nervous about being a beta tester for them as well. As you pointed out being the first adopters can have it's issues. Two features that stood out to me with the DP20, the table tilts to 90 degrees and the one revolution for 6" of quill travel. Those are features I wished the Voyager had. Table size wasn't significant enough for me to worry about. Besides I'm putting a table over mine with a fence. Thanks for the review! I hope it works great for you.
Thanks for the reply. I debated the brushless thing too. Being primarily a one man shop I hope it is a long time before I have any issues. Nova seemed like the tried and tested option, and Powermatic was feeling a bit budget constraining.
Did you check the runout on your drill bit. As you know machinist use high quality chucks trying to get an object running true.
Just checked the runout with my dial indicator on that $20 drill press. .002
You mentioned getting a keyless chuck. I have a voyager and purchased a keyless chuck for it. I was surprised that I had to turn on a software activated brake to lock the chuck to tighten the chuck. The brake only operates for 15 seconds or so before it releases. DP makes me race to change the drill bit. It's really annoying when installing small drill bits as they don't go in straight the first time. Just something to consider.
NOVA VIKING ±0.18 mm on end of 100 mm straight rod attached to a chuck. Manual page 30.
Great video thanks, setting mine up this weekend. What rolling base did you use?
How was/is table flatness? Also, is there much flex in the base casting where the column attaches? Nice video 👍
Adding an adjustable support under the table is a must for most any bench top drill press. You will probably find that the Laguna will need to have the table supported also. Even a floor model drill press will have flex problems. Especially if you are trying to drill into steel or aluminum. If you don't want flex you should have bought a Bridgeport mill.
I don't think that chuck is "made in house" - the drill press I have, which is a generic import one from the 80's has a chuck that looks exactly the same on it, and it has terrible runout. I've not checked yet if it's just the chuck or something else.
Did you contact Laguna and did they have a response about the chuck run out?
They have loads of videos on this drill might be worth a look
Chuck Precision (Runout Tolerance)
Jacobs keyed drill chucks generally have high concentricity and low runout error.
Runout Tolerance: Typically 0.002" (0.0508mm or less).
I'd expect a cobalt-steel drill bit to be as straight and precisely round as that linear-motion shaft, and the bit, near the shank, appeared to show about .002"-.0025" of total indicated runout--not all _that_ bad for an import chuck of unknown but likely middling quality, but, still, much more than you should have to tolerate.
Importantly, when you indicated on the arbor it showed no runout, which suggests that the drivetrain is sound, at least in terms of concentricity (you really need to indicate on the _inside_ of the arbor, with the chuck removed, to gauge it). The arbor and components north of it become much more troublesome to correct, whereas the only thing south of the arbor, the chuck, is diagnosed and replaced fairly easily. Fortunately, the chuck appears to be the culprit here.
But I'd strongly recommend replacing the chuck in any case. I replaced mine a few years ago, installing an Albrecht keyless in place of a standard Jacobs keyed chuck. Like you, I'd wanted to switch to a keyless model for a good while, just for sake of convenience, but I decided to undertake the operation when, after a few years of somewhat unsatisfactory performance, I detected some runout that upon close inspection was revealed to be the consequence of minor damage to one of the jaws. (The drill was ex-school-shop-class equipment. Who knows what it experienced in its time.)
I knew the keyless chuck would be an improvement, but it transformed the ease and speed of use utterly, way beyond my expectations. I was only sorry I hadn't done it sooner. The difference is so significant that I'd urge you to upgrade the chuck now. The very first time you use it you will immediately recognize just how much drudgery the keyed chuck entailed. The time it takes to perform multi-bit operations, especially, will be cut in half. By the way, the new (to me) chuck eliminated the runout I'd observed with the old chuck, so that it was less than .001" at the distal end of a 5"-long bit.
Albrechts are expensive, as you note, but I got mine on eBay, lightly used, for a great deal--between $50-$100 if I remember correctly. That was about five years ago, and things may have changed now, but at the time there were lots of deals to be had. I suppose you do take the risk that a used chuck has a flaw which, though only very slight, is enough to induce significant runout. But I considered the risk tolerable, and your judgment is very probably keen enough to assess the likely condition of a chuck based on its appearance and description. Additionally, you can even make arrangements with a seller as to the potential return of the item if it isn't within spec. It doesn't need to be an Albrecht, though; there are other reputable brands, like Röhm and Jacobs, which you can usually find cheaper, and there are also imports of reliably good quality.
I use a precision ground carbide shaft for these measurements. They’re expensive, but if it’s important, it’s worth it.
@@melgross Centerless ground?
I actually have a couple carbide rods around, from McMaster as well, as it happens, but I don't recall how _precision_ they are. I use them for turning a burr on card scrapers.
@@hughmac13 0.0001” concentricity.
I guess my main concern would be electronics and their expected lifespan. Mechanical things are much easier to deal with twenty years from now as opposed to trying to find a replacement for an outdated electronic component.
Its crazy they included such a low quality chuck with a drill press of that price.
To bad the rod didn't have the MT on it to check the accuracy of the internal taper. Hard to nail down if it's the spindle, adapter or the chuck. That table looks like it has more iron in it than my drill press table and table saw combined. Great looking/functioning drill press all said.
Thanks for the hot tool action!
I'm exactly the same when it comes down to purchasing tool's and pretty much anything else, i alway's wait a few months before buying for the exact same reasons as you said, and here i thought it was just me who's mind worked that way 🤔🤪😂.
There is something rubbing on the inside of the machine. You are definitely a tester. Your intuition was right.
Nice drill press. I’d replace the chuck.
id get a used bridgeport for 2k, would definitely be more accurate than that lol. also those digital indicators seem awful for trying to measure ranges, you cant see the needle going back and forth.
very helpful, thank you!
What was that sound 🤔 it sounds like the shaft has a slight defect and it is actually catching on something as it spins, not sure I'd be able to be happy having heard that sound. If anything I'd be contacting Laguna and asking about it 🤔, especially when you pay a King's randsom for these machines!!!
I hear what you say at the end of your video but in all honesty the amount of money that we are having to spend on these machines they should work correctly right out of the box 😠. Yes it's not too big of an issue but it shouldn't be an issue whatsoever for the money you've spent. This is one thing that really gets my goat with all the companies selling products that basically we need as woodworkers. It almost feels like oh well it's not exactly right but it's good enough!!!
It's great that the touchscreen works with gloves, but I would never have a glove on near a drill press. Anything spinning. I've seen someone feed their gloved hand around a mill chuck. Didn't even have a cutter in it. Didn't matter. Twern't purty.
Check your McMaster-Carr for Albrecht chucks - save up and get it.
Chucks are usualy not accurate and most I have used have that wobble, maybe some more expensive ones for mills are better but if you want to be sure, a collet system is the best.
Why are you testing the outer shell/sleeve of the chuck? It is only for tightening, it has nothing to do with precision, and he always wobbles. Instead, you should test the inner part/body and put the indicator below 3 keyholes. The inner part is the fixed part of the chuck, and he is the one to tell accuracy. If the body is precise, you have a perfectly fine chuck. If you need really precise drilling, the next thing is to pay attention when closing the chuck so that the jaws are all out/in the same amount before tightening. And use all 3 holes, not just one. Because they usually have some play up and down. And if, even after that, you still have some play, then you should touch the yaws in the lathe with a diamond rod. There is another way without lathe, but when I see how you're testing the chuck, you should probably buy another chuck, and use this one for heavy work.
Just simplifying; just get a precision pin, put it in the chuck, tighten properly and test with an indicator,with magnetic base, which everyone should have. Check the runout that way. Forget about measuring the rest of the chuck. The only thing that matters is the concentricity of what’s in the chuck. It’s like testing a three jaw lathe chuck. People test the concentricity of the outer chuck body. While that’s nice, it doesn’t tell anything about how well the scroll is made, or whether the jaws were ground in place or not. Fir me, the first thing I would do is to but a good chuck. Good to see he did that as well.
Adjustable chucks aren't the best you can do in terms of run-out. In a mill you would use a collet or an end mill holder, not an adjusting chuck.
What is country of origin?
Almost surely Taiwan or China.
It’s a drill not a mill! Drill/ Jacob’s chucks have runout of 10-30 thou! The electronics at the top back is the digital speed controller. Keep these components clear of dust to ensure proper cooling of heat sink and high draw triads and rectifiers.
You can directly buy it from Taiwan, they will be way more chipper but same quality.
Its a drill press not a precision milling machine
What you want out of a drill press is warranted but,
the question you need to ask yourself is, I'm I a toolmaker or
a wood shop carpenter.
Buy a better chuck.
Complains about inclusion of hex keys, immediately uses the conveniently included hex keys to assemble the tool.
Hears newly assembled untested tool making concerning sound at low speed on initial startup, turns up to maximum speed.
We are the same 😂
The weight of the base is less important than the design. Even if it weighed a hundred pounds it wouldn’t matter if it were too small for stability. I’m sure there will be people who complain if those hex wrenches weren’t supplied; “At the price of this tool they couldn’t have given us the wrenches to put it together?” Better to just give them. It probably cost them a whole fraction of a dollar. Anyway, this isn’t an industrial tool. It’s a prosumer drill press. If people want to make sure all the parts are of really high quality, then expect to spend well over $3,000. Don’t EVER use gloves with ANY rotating tool. NEVER!!! That’s one of the most dangerous things that can be done. Yes, I know that there will always be one or two people who will say they’ve been doing it for years and they’re ok. Well, good luck to them. Not wearing gloves is like getting insurance. You hope you don’t need it, but for all the years you don’t, it only takes one time you do to make it worthwhile. Having your fingers torn off just once wearing gloves is enough to have made the convenience of all the other times not worth it. Just remember that a drill press is not a precision drilling machine unless it weighs 500 pounds or more.
Boughtmy drill press for $20 at the flea market. Made a better table and fence for another 20. Actually drills a damn good hole...
That collar has nothing to do with precision. Take the chuck apart, debur everything then assemble it with a light oil.
Do not use gloves with a drill press ever. I’ve known two guys that were severely injured, one lost his arm and the other almost did and he has very limited use. Both of them knew not to wear gloves but failed to recognize the dangers. Loose clothing is also a no, no.
I’m not sue why your so concern with the precision, it’s a drill press. If you need precision get a mill. Happy woodworking
The fact that the chuck undermines the precision of the machine is a huge disappointment. I think that you should contact the manufacturer. Please do a follow-up if you do.
The awkwardness of leveling the table would frustrate me to no end. Instead of a simple pin, it could have used detent balls for 0°, 45°, and 90°. That design has proven to be remarkably accurate in other applications. Now I want to see what other manufacturers do. I will be sure to pay close attention to that feature when I replace my old piece of junk.
Finally, the use of the touch screen worries me. I would rather analogue controls for the fundamentals - on, off, light, speed up, speed down. When, not if, the display fails, I can still judge the speed by feel or, if necessary, using a $25 handheld tachometer.
I was wondering how you were going to get the crate off your truck. That was fun to watch.
You've got to wonder about the intelligence of those in charge of company's these days. I know, we'll make a half decent drill press, then, we'll give them a ridiculously cheap chuck at the front end that undoes our entire drill press. Yes, I know you can change it but in the quantities they would buy them, it would cost them an extra 5 quid!!! Better not to add a chuck at all!!!
This wobble is not acceptable. I would have liked to know the answer of the manufacturer, particularly since the machine seems to be ok and it's just the chuck that is bad.
❤
Your using a drill in a 2 dollar chuck
The outside of a chuck is not machined for precision!
Just buy a new chuck. You know you are going to do it eventually.
You need to buy a better chuck is all... get a Jacob's keyless..
Currently unavailable, oh well.
Laguna matada 😂😂😂 means don’t worry 😉
just get miil
Wow that chuck is a piece of junk, shame…
Right. Are they serious
Jeez. You complain about a 3/1000 runoff. Are you making parts for nasa…? And why do you care about the runoff on the outside of the chuck? It’s completely irrelevant. The important thing besides the shaft is what you get at the end of the bit. Metal can warp over time so you might have the most precise machine but if your bits are shot then you’re SOL.
Cheapest crappiest chuck they could find. What a let down.
ya ... after you cracked open the case. nope. you can have your eletro-crap.
This guy has no idea what he is doing with that chuck or dial indicator ….bro just buy a bridge port if your trying to get a cheap drill press to be precision
PUT all ,a
You seem to nit pick a lot
10-4
Do never !!!! wear gloves at a drillpress! Never on any turning machine! In Germany its forbidden by law....
That chuck is pretty horribly made.🙈😬👎🥴
yeah, that chuck is shit. clearly. I've always bought a new chuck with every drill press I buy.
You should have thrown that cheap chuck out to begin with. Testing it was irrelevant.
Never wear gloves with a drill.
lol .. first crank makey the weirdo noize.
Love how he’s trying to do thous of accuracy on a drill press, in wood. lol. What a clown