Just received the Surecom SW-33 Plus from AZ. It performs superbly just as FUT&O mentions. All parts and adapters are in the box so I’ll leave an appropriate review on AZ. The first TD-H3 I tested pumps out 5.3 w on high. I’ll test the rest of my HT’s later today. Just wanted to provide my findings. Thanks again FUT. May God Bless.
Thank you for the video! One thing I would definitely add to your list of test gear is a Field Strength Meter. It is a very useful tool! First, you can see whether your HT/antenna combo is really transmitting in the first place. Don't laugh. I have a perfectly good radio and a perfectly good antenna with matching SMA connectors. But for some weird reason, those two just don't work together. Work with others, but not with each other. I wouldn't have caught that as quick as I did without this meter. Second, the SWR reading may be deceptive. It tells you little about the antenna's actual radiation efficiency (dummy loads also have perfect SWR). With this meter, you can compare different antennas in that regard. Third, you can compare the relative output power of different radios. For example, you would have caught the big relative diff between your H3's right there. I got my meter from Radio Shack a long time ago. It still works, doesn't even need a battery. There is a couple of Surecom models that seem to be currently available on Amazon (not affiliated). I don't have either, so can't attest to their quality first hand. But the reviews seem okay.
Something like this? Unlike the idea of it showing results for antennas during transmission. You will see why if you watchbsome ofbmy antenna videos. (The third one is the best with the orange Abbree 771 gmrs) amzn.to/3vSYN6M
@@FirstUnitedTactical Yep. There is another unamplified version SS10. Idk which one is better, SS11 or SS10. My old RS is unamplified. Model number 21-523. Just found one on eBay for 20 bucks used (can't post the link bc UA-cam seems to delete comments with links). I used it for CB back in the day, but it works as a Field Strength Meter (not SWR meter!) just fine on VHF and UHF. I will probably grab one of those SS10/11 myself. Time to upgrade.
I did watch your antenna comparison videos. Ended up ordering a couple of those orange ones. Still waiting. I already have a few 771G's. One of them doesn't work with one of my radios. I also have a couple of Smiley's direct from their website. Agree with your conclusion - great antennas.
I recently bought a TinySA and it tells all. For example, in testing the Retevis RT85 on 146.500 with Surecom SW 33 Plus w/dummy load it's 5.5W and the tinySA it's actually 3.3W on frequency and the harmonics are in FCC specs. On low power at 1.2W I have full quieting into a club repeater about 6 miles away, as the crow flies. The Surecom indicates total out, but radios don't put all the power on frequency. The tinySA gives the whole picture. Bad harmonics waste more power.
Good video. I own the SW33 I've had it for years. All my radios have been tested and proven to have adequate power output. My first baofeng(2016) GT3WP, is a little low on High power 3.8 watts, only on dummy load.2 meters 146.520 My new 2024 GT3WP, will do 5.4 watts on high @146.520, on dummyload and with Baofengs new style of antenna its showing 7.5 watts!
I have this exact same problem. Originally, I used its power tuning softwaer to tune both of my H3s. I got them both to around 2W low and 5W high. It was on the olded firmware version that had low, low, high power settings, if you used that firmware version. Then I updated both H3s to the new firmware version (now it has only low and high, no more second low) and I retested their power output. They both have the same non-existent power output at low and lower power at high. I had to redo the tuning using the tuning app again to get them back to 2W low and 5W high. I bet TIDRADIO barely did any testing with their firmware and their update tools.
I dont have anything to test them with but i guess i will need to get one..thanks for the recommendation on the meter i would have probably never done it if i thought i needed to buy a bunch of stuff i will only use a few times
I don't have any issues, and I constantly compare the big one (SW-102) with it to see variations. There are small variances but only because I have coax with connections to hook up an HT, which is normal. I feel that my 33 plus works just fine. It reads what it should on power and swr when compared to the bigger 102.
I got my TD-H3 two weeks ago and it’s running 5+ watts on high power and about 1.89-1.90 on low. I’ll take that. Now, what I need to know is WHY, when I turned my radio on a couple of hours ago the screen said “Kill All Locked.”? The only remedy I could find involved a PC, which I don’t have. I ended up having to use the key sequence to get into the Mode menu, choosing my mode (GMRS), and resetting the radio, losing all my custom settings, including repeater tones, and since I don’t know why this happened, I don’t know that it won’t happen again.
They describe it on Tidradio.com, and tell you how to fix it, but I do believe you need a computer. I just looked on my phone and that section wasn't there. It's towards the bottom on the home page I believe. Maybe it's a firmware issue? Did you have all your freqs saved in OD master or even Chirp?
@@FirstUnitedTactical Well, when I said I lost all my “custom settings,” I probably should have qualified that. It meant I had to read-enter the CTCSS tones for the repeaters in my area, and put back the settings I had for how long I wanted the screen to stay lit, what type of scan I wanted (usually TO), and setting the NOAA channels to skip on scans. Not hard to reset. More of a minor annoyance Yes, if I can back the radio up to a Chirp file that would be ideal, but my wife’s Mac can only use the legacy version of Chirp, because it’s too old to update the OS to a version that will support Chirp NEXT, so I can’t use her computer. I have to use a friend’s PC to update my firmware, which I hope to do this week. I had forgotten about Odmaster, though. I have it on my iPhone and I’ve opened it just to see if I could, but I haven’t done anything with it, yet. Once I update the firmware I’ll try backing up the radio to a file on my phone, but I may also use said friend’s computer to make a Chirp file, which is my preference. Thanks for your reply, though. I like your channel and your videos and I’ve subscribed.
@gregorysloat4258 I still have the old version of Chirp on 1 of my computers. The old still works fine, FYI, but it's a PC and not Mac. Maybe that's an issue. To give you a brief understanding on how all of my TIDs are: started with Chirp and programmed "each territories frequecies" that wouldn't reach each other. Like San Antonio TX was one set of freqs, with all 30 GMRS. I then opened ODM and saved that "territory" under its own name like San Antonio. I saved that file to my computer as a Chirp file. Then, went back into Chirp and started a territory list for "Home". Saved to computer then radio, then opened up ODM, and saved that as a 2nd "List" called Home. It's time consuming at first. But, when it's done, it's like you're turning a 199 channel radio into a radio that has the ability for "group scanning". Plus, if your radio crashes, you still have all those saved on pooter and ODM. I'm sure you understood all that from before, but I wanted to make sure you did. ODM is very valuable!
Came across this video this morning looking to see if you had put anything else out and i was not subscribed..i know i was at the time you , actually before you did the first video on the gmrs pro...looks like i have some videos to watch! Seems weird i was not subscribed i see people all the time saying utube was unsubscribing people but never had it happen..i have 2 of the h3 , i got one for my kid and like it so much i got one for myself..the second one had a weird battery drain and i returned it for another..guess i need to chexk them before my return window closes if it hasnt already
I forgot about that.... my very first H3 had the same battery issue! I guess this is my 3rd.... well, when you see the video with the orange abbree antenna, they work fantastic when you get one that is solid! They just got released so there are so tons of issues, just like everything these days!
Are you sure you're not testing FRS 15? There is no GMRS 15. Channel 15 is FRS and is limited to 2 watts. Even if you set it to High power it will only transmit at 2 watts. All properly functioning GMRS radios operate that way unless the programming software allows you to bypass that limitation which is illegal. Hope that helps.
We're you able to find the correct frequency list and wattage? There are a ton of "images" of charts on Google. Go by these charts, or simply the FCC website, and you will see the differences. FRS is simply the $20 2 pack camping walkie talkies you can buy in the camping isle at Walmart. They do share the same frequency/channels as GMRS, but with a GMRS radio (and license) you have many more options. I think the license from FCC is still $35, gold for your immediate family, and also good for 10 years. Now with your license and a good radio, you can talk on repeaters (22-30) and be heard miles and miles away. (In San Antonio, we have a linked repeater system allowing me to basically be heard and talk to someone 40-50 miles from me.
Yeah these things are kind of like, the old, Radio Shaft, Microphones. As everything is made in Taiwan and/or China and places like that. It's all computer assembled. All surfacemount components. All IC chips. And Zero Quality Control. I mean what do you want for $20-$70? Do you know how much those, Motorola walkie-talkies used to go for? Over $1000 each. Back in the 1990s! And you are complaining about a $45 walkie-talkie from China? I mean I have to say. Yes test your stuff. I tested the 10, Radio Shaft, PZM, Microphones I purchased in 1984. And out of those 10. Two, did not sound as good as the other eight. Now I could no longer return them. Because I had cut off the, 1/4 inch, home cassette deck, microphone plugged. Stripped back the insulation. To find. A ground wire and 2 signal wires. It was already a Balanced Output. And I had soldered on a, Professional, 3 pin, XLR, connector. So I could not return those 2. And I gave them to a friend of mine. Who Loves Them! As they did sound identical to each other. And therefore could also be used as a Stereo Pair, still. They just didn't match my eight others in response and sound. And I elected not to use those. And I was out $60. Oh well? They made a great gift to a lovely friend. Who still uses them to this very day. As I do my original eight. And funny enough. They are virtually identical sounding. To my, $300 +, Original American Versions. Because they both use the same, $0.98 US, Taiwanese, microphone capsules! Identical. And I happen to know this for a fact. That's why I purchased the Radio Shaft versions. Because I loved my Crown Brand American versions. That were the originals. And they licensed it to Radio Shaft. And they came out with one design for the home consumer. Made out of a lot more plastic. Could not be remotely powered and required the AA battery. But otherwise they were identical. As I spoke with the Crown Engineers about this. They said Yep. You might get a good one. You might not get a good one. I said yeah but they are 1/10 th, the cost of yours. And so for $300. I purchased 10 new microphones from Radio Shaft. Modify the mall. I mean modified them all. And for $300 I ended up with eight. What a bargain! So this is how real engineers like me do it. I get all the info and then go hunting. For a bargain. RemyRAD
I'm not complaining over a 40 radio. In fact it was a first generation or first version. It's a guinea pig, and they had issues with the H8 in the beginning too. The corrected models are now being set out to customers.
Whoa, friend. Before you dismiss that, $20, SWR meter. Only good up to, 174 MHz? Right. GMRS,, frequencies. Didn't exist back then. And the meter might still work? And so? For your $20. I would test it. Against your known, GMRS, SWR meter's. And see what results you get with it. Before, casting it off and discounting it, entirely. It might still work? They just never tested it up to those frequencies. Because they really didn't exist when that meter was created. Now? That's not to say. The meter might not work at all at GMRS, frequencies? But how do you know? You are assuming. No good engineer assumes, anything. We can't. I don't. I test everything, I can get my hands on. It gives me greater knowledge. I can speak from experience, then. And only then. Because I don't just assume anything. I get test data. But you're just an Okie from Muskogee, or something? Ed you are doing a miss informational, UA-cam video. But of course. Isn't that what everybody does today? And what cup size, brassiere do you wear, sir? You know you have to cover-up on the boardwalk? And I will not assume. What cup size you might be? Without first measuring your bosom. With a plastic ruler if I have to? At later compare that plastic ruler measurement to a tape measure, measurement. To see what the offset might be? Which you would have to measure accurately and not just assume. We don't assume in engineering. We get empirical data. That's why it's called empirical. It's the only thing that counts. So we don't have to. Otherwise? I found your video very informative. I will sort of trust. And I will know for $40. What my GMRS, SWR is. To a reasonable degree. Since they were designed, specifically. For that frequency spectrum. Because they knew guys like you would want one. And they didn't want you to purchase the $20 one. That might also still work fine? For only $20. Follow? This would not be the first time this has happened. Technically speaking. And since I am now a Retired Engineer of over, 50 years. I still don't assume anything. RemyRAD
Just received the Surecom SW-33 Plus from AZ. It performs superbly just as FUT&O mentions. All parts and adapters are in the box so I’ll leave an appropriate review on AZ. The first TD-H3 I tested pumps out 5.3 w on high. I’ll test the rest of my HT’s later today. Just wanted to provide my findings. Thanks again FUT. May God Bless.
Thanks for letting everyone know!
Thank you for the video! One thing I would definitely add to your list of test gear is a Field Strength Meter. It is a very useful tool! First, you can see whether your HT/antenna combo is really transmitting in the first place. Don't laugh. I have a perfectly good radio and a perfectly good antenna with matching SMA connectors. But for some weird reason, those two just don't work together. Work with others, but not with each other. I wouldn't have caught that as quick as I did without this meter. Second, the SWR reading may be deceptive. It tells you little about the antenna's actual radiation efficiency (dummy loads also have perfect SWR). With this meter, you can compare different antennas in that regard. Third, you can compare the relative output power of different radios. For example, you would have caught the big relative diff between your H3's right there. I got my meter from Radio Shack a long time ago. It still works, doesn't even need a battery. There is a couple of Surecom models that seem to be currently available on Amazon (not affiliated). I don't have either, so can't attest to their quality first hand. But the reviews seem okay.
I appreciate that! I do not have one, obviously! I will take suggestions on my other vidoes also if you decide to check them out!
Something like this? Unlike the idea of it showing results for antennas during transmission. You will see why if you watchbsome ofbmy antenna videos. (The third one is the best with the orange Abbree 771 gmrs)
amzn.to/3vSYN6M
@@FirstUnitedTactical Yep. There is another unamplified version SS10. Idk which one is better, SS11 or SS10. My old RS is unamplified. Model number 21-523. Just found one on eBay for 20 bucks used (can't post the link bc UA-cam seems to delete comments with links). I used it for CB back in the day, but it works as a Field Strength Meter (not SWR meter!) just fine on VHF and UHF. I will probably grab one of those SS10/11 myself. Time to upgrade.
I did watch your antenna comparison videos. Ended up ordering a couple of those orange ones. Still waiting. I already have a few 771G's. One of them doesn't work with one of my radios. I also have a couple of Smiley's direct from their website. Agree with your conclusion - great antennas.
I recently bought a TinySA and it tells all. For example, in testing the Retevis RT85 on 146.500 with Surecom SW 33 Plus w/dummy load it's 5.5W and the tinySA it's actually 3.3W on frequency and the harmonics are in FCC specs. On low power at 1.2W I have full quieting into a club repeater about 6 miles away, as the crow flies. The Surecom indicates total out, but radios don't put all the power on frequency. The tinySA gives the whole picture. Bad harmonics waste more power.
Good video. I own the SW33 I've had it for years. All my radios have been tested and proven to have adequate power output.
My first baofeng(2016) GT3WP, is a little low on High power 3.8 watts, only on dummy load.2 meters 146.520
My new 2024 GT3WP, will do 5.4 watts on high @146.520, on dummyload and with Baofengs new style of antenna its showing 7.5 watts!
7.5?? I think my 8hp's are around the 6ish watt. That's impressive. Which model baofeng is it?
I have this exact same problem. Originally, I used its power tuning softwaer to tune both of my H3s. I got them both to around 2W low and 5W high. It was on the olded firmware version that had low, low, high power settings, if you used that firmware version. Then I updated both H3s to the new firmware version (now it has only low and high, no more second low) and I retested their power output. They both have the same non-existent power output at low and lower power at high. I had to redo the tuning using the tuning app again to get them back to 2W low and 5W high. I bet TIDRADIO barely did any testing with their firmware and their update tools.
These must have been the guinea pigs because I have a newer one that works great. (The one I use in all the antenna test is the new H3).
I dont have anything to test them with but i guess i will need to get one..thanks for the recommendation on the meter i would have probably never done it if i thought i needed to buy a bunch of stuff i will only use a few times
You don't need much, just a power SWR meter. That will test antennas and radios.
Thanks
Odds are that 30-40% of the watts you see on those chinese radios are going to harmonics rather than the desired frequency.
Yep. You get what you pay for!
Just noticed on AZ that the SW33 Plus is a frequently returned item. Reviews are just what they are but not to sure about this one. Opinions?
I don't have any issues, and I constantly compare the big one (SW-102) with it to see variations. There are small variances but only because I have coax with connections to hook up an HT, which is normal. I feel that my 33 plus works just fine. It reads what it should on power and swr when compared to the bigger 102.
FUT: Thanks for the reply. I’ll be giving it a try. May God Bless.
@@ceesteven if something doesn't seem right, Amazon is easy to return....
I got my TD-H3 two weeks ago and it’s running 5+ watts on high power and about 1.89-1.90 on low. I’ll take that.
Now, what I need to know is WHY, when I turned my radio on a couple of hours ago the screen said “Kill All Locked.”?
The only remedy I could find involved a PC, which I don’t have. I ended up having to use the key sequence to get into the Mode menu, choosing my mode (GMRS), and resetting the radio, losing all my custom settings, including repeater tones, and since I don’t know why this happened, I don’t know that it won’t happen again.
They describe it on Tidradio.com, and tell you how to fix it, but I do believe you need a computer. I just looked on my phone and that section wasn't there. It's towards the bottom on the home page I believe. Maybe it's a firmware issue? Did you have all your freqs saved in OD master or even Chirp?
@@FirstUnitedTactical
Well, when I said I lost all my “custom settings,” I probably should have qualified that. It meant I had to read-enter the CTCSS tones for the repeaters in my area, and put back the settings I had for how long I wanted the screen to stay lit, what type of scan I wanted (usually TO), and setting the NOAA channels to skip on scans. Not hard to reset. More of a minor annoyance
Yes, if I can back the radio up to a Chirp file that would be ideal, but my wife’s Mac can only use the legacy version of Chirp, because it’s too old to update the OS to a version that will support Chirp NEXT, so I can’t use her computer. I have to use a friend’s PC to update my firmware, which I hope to do this week. I had forgotten about Odmaster, though. I have it on my iPhone and I’ve opened it just to see if I could, but I haven’t done anything with it, yet. Once I update the firmware I’ll try backing up the radio to a file on my phone, but I may also use said friend’s computer to make a Chirp file, which is my preference. Thanks for your reply, though. I like your channel and your videos and I’ve subscribed.
@gregorysloat4258 I still have the old version of Chirp on 1 of my computers. The old still works fine, FYI, but it's a PC and not Mac. Maybe that's an issue. To give you a brief understanding on how all of my TIDs are: started with Chirp and programmed "each territories frequecies" that wouldn't reach each other. Like San Antonio TX was one set of freqs, with all 30 GMRS. I then opened ODM and saved that "territory" under its own name like San Antonio. I saved that file to my computer as a Chirp file. Then, went back into Chirp and started a territory list for "Home". Saved to computer then radio, then opened up ODM, and saved that as a 2nd "List" called Home. It's time consuming at first. But, when it's done, it's like you're turning a 199 channel radio into a radio that has the ability for "group scanning". Plus, if your radio crashes, you still have all those saved on pooter and ODM. I'm sure you understood all that from before, but I wanted to make sure you did. ODM is very valuable!
Came across this video this morning looking to see if you had put anything else out and i was not subscribed..i know i was at the time you , actually before you did the first video on the gmrs pro...looks like i have some videos to watch! Seems weird i was not subscribed i see people all the time saying utube was unsubscribing people but never had it happen..i have 2 of the h3 , i got one for my kid and like it so much i got one for myself..the second one had a weird battery drain and i returned it for another..guess i need to chexk them before my return window closes if it hasnt already
I forgot about that.... my very first H3 had the same battery issue! I guess this is my 3rd.... well, when you see the video with the orange abbree antenna, they work fantastic when you get one that is solid! They just got released so there are so tons of issues, just like everything these days!
Are you sure you're not testing FRS 15? There is no GMRS 15. Channel 15 is FRS and is limited to 2 watts. Even if you set it to High power it will only transmit at 2 watts. All properly functioning GMRS radios operate that way unless the programming software allows you to bypass that limitation which is illegal. Hope that helps.
Wrong wrong wrong.
GMRS 15-22 is 50W. But, you have to have a license to transmit up to 50W.
Which I do, WRZU993
We're you able to find the correct frequency list and wattage? There are a ton of "images" of charts on Google. Go by these charts, or simply the FCC website, and you will see the differences. FRS is simply the $20 2 pack camping walkie talkies you can buy in the camping isle at Walmart. They do share the same frequency/channels as GMRS, but with a GMRS radio (and license) you have many more options. I think the license from FCC is still $35, gold for your immediate family, and also good for 10 years. Now with your license and a good radio, you can talk on repeaters (22-30) and be heard miles and miles away. (In San Antonio, we have a linked repeater system allowing me to basically be heard and talk to someone 40-50 miles from me.
Yeah these things are kind of like, the old, Radio Shaft, Microphones. As everything is made in Taiwan and/or China and places like that. It's all computer assembled. All surfacemount components. All IC chips. And Zero Quality Control. I mean what do you want for $20-$70? Do you know how much those, Motorola walkie-talkies used to go for? Over $1000 each. Back in the 1990s! And you are complaining about a $45 walkie-talkie from China?
I mean I have to say. Yes test your stuff. I tested the 10, Radio Shaft, PZM, Microphones I purchased in 1984. And out of those 10. Two, did not sound as good as the other eight. Now I could no longer return them. Because I had cut off the, 1/4 inch, home cassette deck, microphone plugged. Stripped back the insulation. To find. A ground wire and 2 signal wires. It was already a Balanced Output. And I had soldered on a, Professional, 3 pin, XLR, connector. So I could not return those 2. And I gave them to a friend of mine. Who Loves Them! As they did sound identical to each other. And therefore could also be used as a Stereo Pair, still. They just didn't match my eight others in response and sound. And I elected not to use those. And I was out $60. Oh well? They made a great gift to a lovely friend. Who still uses them to this very day. As I do my original eight. And funny enough. They are virtually identical sounding. To my, $300 +, Original American Versions. Because they both use the same, $0.98 US, Taiwanese, microphone capsules! Identical. And I happen to know this for a fact. That's why I purchased the Radio Shaft versions. Because I loved my Crown Brand American versions. That were the originals. And they licensed it to Radio Shaft. And they came out with one design for the home consumer. Made out of a lot more plastic. Could not be remotely powered and required the AA battery. But otherwise they were identical. As I spoke with the Crown Engineers about this. They said Yep. You might get a good one. You might not get a good one. I said yeah but they are 1/10 th, the cost of yours. And so for $300. I purchased 10 new microphones from Radio Shaft. Modify the mall. I mean modified them all. And for $300 I ended up with eight. What a bargain!
So this is how real engineers like me do it. I get all the info and then go hunting. For a bargain.
RemyRAD
I'm not complaining over a 40 radio. In fact it was a first generation or first version. It's a guinea pig, and they had issues with the H8 in the beginning too. The corrected models are now being set out to customers.
Whoa, friend. Before you dismiss that, $20, SWR meter. Only good up to, 174 MHz? Right. GMRS,, frequencies. Didn't exist back then. And the meter might still work? And so? For your $20. I would test it. Against your known, GMRS, SWR meter's. And see what results you get with it. Before, casting it off and discounting it, entirely. It might still work? They just never tested it up to those frequencies. Because they really didn't exist when that meter was created.
Now? That's not to say. The meter might not work at all at GMRS, frequencies? But how do you know? You are assuming. No good engineer assumes, anything. We can't. I don't. I test everything, I can get my hands on. It gives me greater knowledge. I can speak from experience, then. And only then. Because I don't just assume anything. I get test data.
But you're just an Okie from Muskogee, or something? Ed you are doing a miss informational, UA-cam video. But of course. Isn't that what everybody does today?
And what cup size, brassiere do you wear, sir? You know you have to cover-up on the boardwalk?
And I will not assume. What cup size you might be? Without first measuring your bosom. With a plastic ruler if I have to? At later compare that plastic ruler measurement to a tape measure, measurement. To see what the offset might be? Which you would have to measure accurately and not just assume. We don't assume in engineering. We get empirical data. That's why it's called empirical. It's the only thing that counts. So we don't have to.
Otherwise? I found your video very informative. I will sort of trust. And I will know for $40. What my GMRS, SWR is. To a reasonable degree. Since they were designed, specifically. For that frequency spectrum. Because they knew guys like you would want one. And they didn't want you to purchase the $20 one. That might also still work fine? For only $20. Follow? This would not be the first time this has happened. Technically speaking.
And since I am now a Retired Engineer of over, 50 years. I still don't assume anything.
RemyRAD
I did test it. The power side slams the far right so hard it wants to break.