I have great news: The way to handle multiple faces in the scene that you want is already on the camera, you just have to know how to use it. I use the X-H2S, but the system works the same. Fujifilm has done a terrible job of telling people how to use their system, so here is my attempt at a clean up. 1) Make sure your Focus Mode is CONTINUOUS; 2) Set the AF Mode to WIDE/TRACKING; 3) Set Eye/Auto to ON. Once these are set you will see a small green box appear. Unlike with Zone and Single Point modes this box cannot be changed in dimensions; you just get the one fairly small size. But that's ok, you want it tight because you're going to place it over the ONE face that you want to track, then activate autofocus. You can activate autofocus with the AF On button, or by using a half press of the shutter release, depending on which you have set for focusing your camera. Once you've made the press to focus the system will lock onto the eyes within the box. It will ONLY look for eyes within the small green box, even if there are multiple faces in the scene outside of that box. That's why the small box is a blessing in disguise. This completely solves the multiple faces in the scene problem. You MUST keep the button pressed (if you focus with the AF ON) or half pressed (if you're using the shutter release to focus). If you do that the system stays on that person like a bulldog with its teeth sunk into them! The subject can even turn away so that you don't see their eyes anymore, and it will stay on their head. You can also recompose so that someone else is in the middle of the scene and it will stay on the person that you're locked in on. There are only two ways that it will let go: if you let up off of the focus button, or if they completely leave the scene. Try it, you'll love it. This is much better than using Zone or Single point with EYE AF on when you are in a crowd. With those two modes having EYE AF on will cause the eye control to take over, and if there are several faces in the scene the system will jump all over from one set of eyes to another. Having WIDE/TRACKING switched on eliminates that problem and puts you in control of which eyes are selected. Practice this with two people standing next to each other (or two mannequins if you have them) until you get the hang of it. You will love it. Let me know if you have questions and I'll try to help. Good luck! And GREAT video, btw!
Thank you so much for this, that is very interesting! Thanks for the detailed how-to, I will definitely try this out and see if the workflow works for concerts! I still reckon they need to add some kind of subject learning like Sony has, so you can just tell it "lock subject" and it will learn that face - or at least restrict face detection to the autofocus square for single and zone. But thanks again, that method you describe is definitely a step forward, I just never use Wide ever so it might require tweaking the workflow while I work but will for sure be testing it! Thanks!
Have you had an opportunity to try this? You work in more difficult focusing situations than I do, so I'm very curious if it has worked for you. Thanks!@@FlemmingBoJensen
Hmm ... I can't help you there, unfortunately. I'm not a video guy at all, though I plan to start playing around with that in the future.@@kevinzhou6984
Hi Flemming, great review. I went with XH2S over the 40mp sensor because my work demands high iso but thanks for this video I might see if I can loan an XH2. Music is life. I’ve started a new project where my images are to be experienced with music.
Thank you so much - and that new project sounds fantastic, I dream of a big immersive exhibition at some point, dark room, music playing, sound recordings of a crowd etc.
I am curious what you think of a nice update suggestion: To make the dials more useful in challenging situation: - ISO dial set the max ISO when shooting Auto ISO (this could also be the back dial) - SS dial set the min shutter speed when shooting Auto ISO (this could also be the front dial) I find that I usually don't use these 2 dials when I don't have the time to think my shot and prefer to shoot Auto ISO with ISO set at the max and I play with the Min Shutter Speed depending on the scene I have an X-T3 and love the colours straight out of camera. I've just purchassed a Sony A7Cii because of my frustration with the Autofocus in these challenging situations... Not sure I've made the right decision...
This could definitely work, that is a very interesting suggestion! As for autofocus, I think no one will ever beat Sony, they will always be the best, but it also depends greatly on the lens. If you are in a lowlight situation, then autofocus needs a lens with a low aperture to "see" anything, so 'faster' lenses, F2.8 and faster is a must for low light.
I do street photography, and I don’t use face eye detection for the very reason you talk about. I seem to get better results without it, but if I was doing portraits, and I knew my subject was going to be the main part of my image, then I would use face eye detection. I don’t use continuous focus, I use only single.
Fantastic review and great pictures! Thanks! This is what I was looking for! I shoot weddings and concerts, relying heavily on high iso (6400). My main camera, Nikon D750, is doing that extremely well. But running around for almost 9 years, I am looking to move that camera as my second camera and get a new one as main camera (in case it starts failing). I am familiar with the Fuji X series, own a XT20 and a two Fuji prime lenses. To be honest, the XT20 is doing very well at iso 3200. Took it to a concert where I was shooting, had the "older" 56 f/1.2 and 23 f/1.4 on it, pictures came out quite good. Post process it in Capture One Pro 20. I think 40% of the set of pictures delivered came out of the Fuji ;-) The XT5 and XH2S are on my list. Seeing the XT5 is doing the job, I think I can save me some bucks by choosing the XT5 over the XH2S (spend it on an extra lens). Thanks!
Thank you so much, glad you liked the review and my pictures :) Yes, for weddings I want to say look at X-T5 or the X-H2 (not s version). I think X-H2S is really only if you need either crazy video specs or the very fastest AF for say bird photography. For a wedding I would think the 40 megapixels in the X-T5/X-H2 would be a lot more useful too you.
@@FlemmingBoJensen Thanks for your swift reply. Reason I was looking for the XH2S was the snappy autofocus. Well looking at your pictures, that is not a problem with the XT5. You are right, I am not doing video, so the XH2S is perhaps a bit of an overkill hahahaha!
@@faizeljoemrati6329 yeah the AF on the X-T5 is fast enough for people running and jumping around on a stage so I think it will do weddings just fine :)
I'm pretty sure face detection prioritizes any faces in your auto focus square, so I usually make a decent sized auto focus zone and keep that where I know my subject will be, then it works better with multiple people.
It will prioritize it a bit but it will happily jump outside the focus square if it finds a face in the background that it feels is more lit/prominent. It needs to stick to the person I have selected no matter what. I had this happen yesterday again at a classic concert, and have discussed it with length with Fujifilm and I am sure one day they will fix it in firmware.
Thanks 4 sharing, very positive review. I have an XH2s and I’m assuming the AF is similar when it comes to eye detect. Once u have multiple faces and eye detect enabled, you need to select the wide/tracking AF mode, you will see a small white square and you just need to position this over the face you prefer and it should stick to that area and face only. Looking forward to finally getting the XT5 should make a great addition to my wedding kit.
Thank you so much! The XH2s has that stacked sensor so it has faster and better autofocus than the X-T5/XH2. What you are describing does not work very well on the X-T5, it is very random and it only occasionally works for 1 shot, not multiple shots in a row which we really need it to, it needs to remember the subject and stick to it. It will come in firmware at some point, for now unfortunately there is no good solution for face detection with many faces in the frame :)
@@FlemmingBoJensen that’s interesting, I would have thought the wide/tracking system would be similar across the new range but looks like the XH2s has some advantages not only with speed but they way it finds the faces. Thanks for letting me know 👍
Really appreciate your insights specifically related to live music photography. It’s a genre of photography I’d like to pursue and I think an xt5 is in my future. As far as lenses, if you could only use one with your xt5 for live music, which would it be? I am thinking the 16-55 f2.8 would be a fantastic all around lens, but am curious what you would say!
Thank you so much, and you are totally right, the XF16-55F2.8 is my one go to lens, fantastic all round lens for everything really but especially awesome for concerts and events!
Does the face detection improve if you use the smallest zone focus box thing? I can’t remember the name, but the one with 9 small squares inside it. I could be misremembering but I think it’s supposed to only look for faces inside that square. But even if I’m correct, you might still see too many faces when you shoot concerts like that. I’m sort of just thinking out loud/naively trying to help. Anyway, was fun to hear your review and your photos look so good! I got this camera too and it’s so close to perfect, I love it!
No, unfortunately it does not, that would be something though, if you could confine it to the zone focus box. I actually use zone focus almost all the time but face detection does not care much, it will happily find and lock onto faces all over the frame, just like the metering, it kinda overrides everything. Glad you liked my review and my photos, thank you!
About high ISO, I'd like to ask you if you think it is a good idea to shoot RAW and underexpose by a lot, then bring back up the exposure in post? In some venues, even 12k isn't enough if I want to keep the shutter speed high enough... so I was thinking if it could be a good idea to set iso up to 6400, and the EV to -2 or even -3, then add back the exposure in LR. What do you think? (I have a photographer colleague who swears it gives them a lot better quality image, but some people hate this method, so I can't make up my mind)
I think that is such a subjective thing, you need to just test it out yourself and see what you prefer. I would not underexpose, noise lives in midtones and shadows so I want to get as 'strong' a signal on the sensor as possible, so I would personally rather use ISO 12,800 and expose properly than bumping up +2 or +3 in exposure. But use whatever works for you, it's subjective :)
You are welcome :) I would think that it would be a bit hard to bump up the exposure of underexposed highlights without also bumping up all the noise, same as if you recorded something at -20db! But anyway, whatever works for each person is great :)
Thank you! X-T1 is 440g. 129 x 90 x 47 mm. X-T5 is 557g. 130 x 91 x 64 mm. So they are almost identical, X-T5 just slightly heavier and thicker but still super compact.
Hi. I have never used the X-S20, but from what I hear it is a really great and very capable hybrid camera. So is the X-T5, however they are very very different cameras, so I really suggest that you find a shop where you can handle both and try them out. The X-S20 is a much smaller camera, swivel vlogger type LCD screen and made as a compact hybrid stills/video camera. The X-T5 is a bigger body, with the classic dials and tilt screen primarily aimed at stills. Both great cameras, but very different so do try them out if you can.
Problems for me: IBIS/AF: not sure what is the problem cause the Fujifilm warranty service center didn't find a solution, but one out of every 20 shots is completely fallen apart, the whole thing is blur. This happens even at very high speeds in perfect light, so it seems like the IBIS might be kicking the sensor for some reason... but then it also happens when IBIS is turned off. (My X-E4 never had this problem) Face/eye detection: Fujifilm seems to be focusing on the eye lashes instead of the iris.. so if I use an F/1.4 or 1.8 lens, the eyes are never actually sharp.
I must have put more than 100,000 exposures on each of my X-T5 and have never had that problem, that definitely sounds like a faulty camera. As for eye detection, I never use it and never shoot stuff where focus is that critical so I have no experience on that one.
@@FlemmingBoJensen to me that was wedding photography, so I expected the eyes to be actually sharp, but seems like I need to master MF+focus peaking for this purpose
Flemming please post more content, I shoot concert photography with the X-T5, but the file size and buffer became an issue. I'm wandering if you still use them ? Thanks Steve.
Hi and thank you, yes I use my 2 x X-T5 almost everyday for concerts, love them so much. I have never filled the buffer on the X-T5s but yeah we all shoot in different ways.
Can i ask you, like I said I shoot with one X-T5 at the moment I can't afford a pair. I can go back to a pair of X-T3s for my concert work, would that be a good move ? as you know swapping lenses in that environment isn't ideal. Thanks Steve.
Yeah swapping lenses during a concert kinda sucks, especially if you are shooting 3 songs from the pit and every second counts. Do you have the X-T3s and the option to use an X-T5 and then X-T3 as a secondary camera? If so I would do that, they are similar enough that I think it'll work great
@@FlemmingBoJensen Hi, no I would have to trade down as it were, back to the X-T3s and not have the X-T5. I ran into issues shooting Blaze Bayley recently, I had permission to shoot the whole gig but had to lense swap and the condensation was awful in the venue. Thanks Steve.
Ah yes. I wouldn't personally choose to trade down, the X-T5 is such an amazing camera and a big improvement on the X-T3. I would wait until you can save up for a used X-T3 or something as the secondary camera. Condensation can really suck, if possible make sure your lenses are adjusted to room temperature by exposing them to it for a while, arriving just before a sweaty gig with lenses coming from the outside and yeah one will be fighting condensation for a long time.
Great review and thanks. It's a-pity you didn't talk about the lenses that you use, That's the big deal is the lenses, for pro's. I shot Fuji for over 10 years, but have recently moved over to Nikon Z FF. On any system, the lenses are where it's at. I miss my XF16mm 1.4 - that was the lens of the century.
Thank you! This movie is about the camera :) I have used FUJIFILM professionally for 10 years and have done a lot of movies and blog posts about lenses already. And yes, the XF16mm1.4 is outstanding (even if the autofocus is so slow and it really needs a Mk2 now) and I have done several blog posts and movies on it.
@@FlemmingBoJensen I saw a reviewer recently note the 16 1.4 got a new breath of life with the current gen bodies/AF system... still noisy but much stickier to moving subjects. Have you noticed this at all?
That is interesting, I don't think I have used the 16mmF1.4 all that much the past year with the X-T5 but next time I use it I will definitely pay attention to whether it does less hunting (it hunts so badly in low light any improvements should be really easy to spot)
XF16-55mmF2.8 and XF10-24mmF4 are my 2 most used and favourite lenses. I use a whole bunch of other lenses from time to time depending on the job, but those 2 are always with me.
Is the 10-24 not to slow for lowlight concert work? I've switched back to Fujifilm with the X-T5 and have my first concert with it on New Year's eve. I'm starting to get a bit concerned after leaving FF. I was going to use the 16mm 1.4, 33 1.4 and 90mm ?
@@stevenbamford5245 yes it is definitely too slow for lowlight smaller jobs, I don't use it for that, but since I mostly work larger productions for bands, the F4 works fine. When I shoot in smaller venues I bring exactly the setup you mention 16 and 33mm F1.4 and 90mm F2 !
Face detect overriding my selected metering mode is super annoying, and I don't get why it does that. Face detect is an AF mode - why does that mess with metering?
Yes omg it is so annoying - it just overrides any metering and goes with it's own face detect metering, why why why did they make this a feature you cannot turn off. I want face detection but don't interfere with my own metering modes, gah Fujifilm!
@@FlemmingBoJensen I'm pretty new to Fuji and this is one of a handful of things that struck me as really non-intuitive. Another having to do with subject detection: Why is face/eye detection a separate, mutually exclusive setting from subject detection? A face is just another type of subject. I think their AF settings and menu UI in general could be a lot more user-friendly. I also think there's a ton of room for improvement with touch screen features. My old Canon Rebel DSLR does touch screen far more intuitively. All that said, I love shooting with my X-T5 and having had time to internalize a lot of the UI/settings quirks, it's just some annoyances.
I agree, having face detection come with it's own metering and you can't turn it off is a seriously bad idea. Can't wait for some firmware fix so it can be turned off. As for subject detection ie birds etc, that is a very new thing so I think once it gets refined it gets better integrated with human subject detection :) As for the menus, I think all camera menu systems have their own weird quirks, once you get used to it and know where things are it will get easier. I have used Fujifilm exclusively for 11+ years now so I am totally lost if someone hands me any other camera hehe. As for touch screen, it is the first thing I turn off, I hate touch screen controlling a camera :)
@@FlemmingBoJensen I ended up turning off touch screen as well and fine without it. But I admit I'm slightly spoiled by my phone's "tap to track subject" feature and it just locks on to any arbitrary thing with seamless face detect. In DSLR world I did a lot of focus and recompose. Now I'm trying to get better at quickly choosing an AF point using the joystick, though focus/recompose still works as well.
I am pretty oldskool and never shoot with my phone and I also only shoot with my eye to the viewfinder 99% of the time :) But yeah I think from what I hear the capabilities of iphone camera software is out of this world and industry leading. I think the joystick works on Fujifilm, although I tend to focus and re-compose a lot more than I use the joystick, just old habit I think from before we had joysticks on cameras :)
You can sort of do that on the X-T5, sometimes, only in AF-S and it does not stick, once I have taken a picture I need to try and select face all over again, it is so complete undependable for event and concerts. They really need a function like Sony where you can tell it "this is my subject" and it will learn and stick to that face no matter how many other visible faces come into the frame.
I have great news: The way to handle multiple faces in the scene that you want is already on the camera, you just have to know how to use it. I use the X-H2S, but the system works the same. Fujifilm has done a terrible job of telling people how to use their system, so here is my attempt at a clean up.
1) Make sure your Focus Mode is CONTINUOUS;
2) Set the AF Mode to WIDE/TRACKING;
3) Set Eye/Auto to ON.
Once these are set you will see a small green box appear. Unlike with Zone and Single Point modes this box cannot be changed in dimensions; you just get the one fairly small size. But that's ok, you want it tight because you're going to place it over the ONE face that you want to track, then activate autofocus. You can activate autofocus with the AF On button, or by using a half press of the shutter release, depending on which you have set for focusing your camera.
Once you've made the press to focus the system will lock onto the eyes within the box. It will ONLY look for eyes within the small green box, even if there are multiple faces in the scene outside of that box. That's why the small box is a blessing in disguise. This completely solves the multiple faces in the scene problem.
You MUST keep the button pressed (if you focus with the AF ON) or half pressed (if you're using the shutter release to focus). If you do that the system stays on that person like a bulldog with its teeth sunk into them! The subject can even turn away so that you don't see their eyes anymore, and it will stay on their head. You can also recompose so that someone else is in the middle of the scene and it will stay on the person that you're locked in on. There are only two ways that it will let go: if you let up off of the focus button, or if they completely leave the scene. Try it, you'll love it.
This is much better than using Zone or Single point with EYE AF on when you are in a crowd. With those two modes having EYE AF on will cause the eye control to take over, and if there are several faces in the scene the system will jump all over from one set of eyes to another. Having WIDE/TRACKING switched on eliminates that problem and puts you in control of which eyes are selected. Practice this with two people standing next to each other (or two mannequins if you have them) until you get the hang of it. You will love it. Let me know if you have questions and I'll try to help. Good luck! And GREAT video, btw!
Thank you so much for this, that is very interesting! Thanks for the detailed how-to, I will definitely try this out and see if the workflow works for concerts!
I still reckon they need to add some kind of subject learning like Sony has, so you can just tell it "lock subject" and it will learn that face - or at least restrict face detection to the autofocus square for single and zone. But thanks again, that method you describe is definitely a step forward, I just never use Wide ever so it might require tweaking the workflow while I work but will for sure be testing it! Thanks!
You're most welcome!@@FlemmingBoJensen
Have you had an opportunity to try this? You work in more difficult focusing situations than I do, so I'm very curious if it has worked for you. Thanks!@@FlemmingBoJensen
thank you so much for sharing that. I wonder what to do if I am shooting a video, which I won’t be able to keep pressing the button.
Hmm ... I can't help you there, unfortunately. I'm not a video guy at all, though I plan to start playing around with that in the future.@@kevinzhou6984
I could listen to you talk about this camera forever. Great info
Forever is probably a bit much hehe, but thank you so much!!!!!
I also love shooting at high ISOs! The Fuji monchrome push process with 12800 ISO is soooo good. Fuji grain is excellent!
Awesome, yes I agree, Fuji grain has a nice organic feel to it, very much unlike any kind of digital noise!
Fantastic photos Fleming! Glad you’re enjoying the XT5 after a year of hard use - thanks for posting
Thank you so much!
Cool review and super cool pictures!
Thank you so much!!!!
Love your work Bo
Thank you so much!
Hi Flemming, great review. I went with XH2S over the 40mp sensor because my work demands high iso but thanks for this video I might see if I can loan an XH2.
Music is life. I’ve started a new project where my images are to be experienced with music.
Thank you so much - and that new project sounds fantastic, I dream of a big immersive exhibition at some point, dark room, music playing, sound recordings of a crowd etc.
I am curious what you think of a nice update suggestion:
To make the dials more useful in challenging situation:
- ISO dial set the max ISO when shooting Auto ISO (this could also be the back dial)
- SS dial set the min shutter speed when shooting Auto ISO (this could also be the front dial)
I find that I usually don't use these 2 dials when I don't have the time to think my shot and prefer to shoot Auto ISO with ISO set at the max and I play with the Min Shutter Speed depending on the scene
I have an X-T3 and love the colours straight out of camera. I've just purchassed a Sony A7Cii because of my frustration with the Autofocus in these challenging situations... Not sure I've made the right decision...
This could definitely work, that is a very interesting suggestion!
As for autofocus, I think no one will ever beat Sony, they will always be the best, but it also depends greatly on the lens. If you are in a lowlight situation, then autofocus needs a lens with a low aperture to "see" anything, so 'faster' lenses, F2.8 and faster is a must for low light.
Nice review and inspired by your channel.
Thank you so much, I am really glad you like my channel!
Nice vidéo, love your style
Thank you!!!
I do street photography, and I don’t use face eye detection for the very reason you talk about. I seem to get better results without it, but if I was doing portraits, and I knew my subject was going to be the main part of my image, then I would use face eye detection. I don’t use continuous focus, I use only single.
Yeah face detection works fine when the algorithm can only see one face in the composition - more than one and it freaks out :)
Fantastic review and great pictures! Thanks! This is what I was looking for! I shoot weddings and concerts, relying heavily on high iso (6400). My main camera, Nikon D750, is doing that extremely well. But running around for almost 9 years, I am looking to move that camera as my second camera and get a new one as main camera (in case it starts failing). I am familiar with the Fuji X series, own a XT20 and a two Fuji prime lenses. To be honest, the XT20 is doing very well at iso 3200. Took it to a concert where I was shooting, had the "older" 56 f/1.2 and 23 f/1.4 on it, pictures came out quite good. Post process it in Capture One Pro 20. I think 40% of the set of pictures delivered came out of the Fuji ;-) The XT5 and XH2S are on my list. Seeing the XT5 is doing the job, I think I can save me some bucks by choosing the XT5 over the XH2S (spend it on an extra lens). Thanks!
Thank you so much, glad you liked the review and my pictures :) Yes, for weddings I want to say look at X-T5 or the X-H2 (not s version). I think X-H2S is really only if you need either crazy video specs or the very fastest AF for say bird photography. For a wedding I would think the 40 megapixels in the X-T5/X-H2 would be a lot more useful too you.
@@FlemmingBoJensen Thanks for your swift reply. Reason I was looking for the XH2S was the snappy autofocus. Well looking at your pictures, that is not a problem with the XT5. You are right, I am not doing video, so the XH2S is perhaps a bit of an overkill hahahaha!
@@faizeljoemrati6329 yeah the AF on the X-T5 is fast enough for people running and jumping around on a stage so I think it will do weddings just fine :)
@@FlemmingBoJensen perfect 🙂!
I'm pretty sure face detection prioritizes any faces in your auto focus square, so I usually make a decent sized auto focus zone and keep that where I know my subject will be, then it works better with multiple people.
It will prioritize it a bit but it will happily jump outside the focus square if it finds a face in the background that it feels is more lit/prominent. It needs to stick to the person I have selected no matter what. I had this happen yesterday again at a classic concert, and have discussed it with length with Fujifilm and I am sure one day they will fix it in firmware.
@@FlemmingBoJensen I'm glad you're able to talk to them directly 🙂
@@BrandonDavis985 yeah it is part of the awesome thing about being an official ambassador for them, I get to test new gear and give direct feedback
Thanks 4 sharing, very positive review. I have an XH2s and I’m assuming the AF is similar when it comes to eye detect. Once u have multiple faces and eye detect enabled, you need to select the wide/tracking AF mode, you will see a small white square and you just need to position this over the face you prefer and it should stick to that area and face only. Looking forward to finally getting the XT5 should make a great addition to my wedding kit.
Thank you so much! The XH2s has that stacked sensor so it has faster and better autofocus than the X-T5/XH2. What you are describing does not work very well on the X-T5, it is very random and it only occasionally works for 1 shot, not multiple shots in a row which we really need it to, it needs to remember the subject and stick to it. It will come in firmware at some point, for now unfortunately there is no good solution for face detection with many faces in the frame :)
@@FlemmingBoJensen that’s interesting, I would have thought the wide/tracking system would be similar across the new range but looks like the XH2s has some advantages not only with speed but they way it finds the faces. Thanks for letting me know 👍
Really appreciate your insights specifically related to live music photography. It’s a genre of photography I’d like to pursue and I think an xt5 is in my future. As far as lenses, if you could only use one with your xt5 for live music, which would it be? I am thinking the 16-55 f2.8 would be a fantastic all around lens, but am curious what you would say!
Thank you so much, and you are totally right, the XF16-55F2.8 is my one go to lens, fantastic all round lens for everything really but especially awesome for concerts and events!
Thanks for the quick response!
Does the face detection improve if you use the smallest zone focus box thing? I can’t remember the name, but the one with 9 small squares inside it. I could be misremembering but I think it’s supposed to only look for faces inside that square. But even if I’m correct, you might still see too many faces when you shoot concerts like that. I’m sort of just thinking out loud/naively trying to help. Anyway, was fun to hear your review and your photos look so good! I got this camera too and it’s so close to perfect, I love it!
No, unfortunately it does not, that would be something though, if you could confine it to the zone focus box. I actually use zone focus almost all the time but face detection does not care much, it will happily find and lock onto faces all over the frame, just like the metering, it kinda overrides everything. Glad you liked my review and my photos, thank you!
about the grip... I suggest you to buy a smallrig cage. It makes a huge difference. Also a good addition to protect the camera
I did, that is a Smallrig grip I show in the video :) Not a full cage, but a great Smallrig L-grip, it is totally awesome.
@@FlemmingBoJensen I use the full cage :) looks like the Darth Vader of cameras with the 35mm f1.4 on :D
Your images are amazing, which lenses are you using and recommend? Thanks!
Thank you so much! I sometimes use primes, but by far most of these pictures are shot with the XF16-55mm and XF10-24mm zooms!
@@FlemmingBoJensen fantastic work!
About high ISO, I'd like to ask you if you think it is a good idea to shoot RAW and underexpose by a lot, then bring back up the exposure in post? In some venues, even 12k isn't enough if I want to keep the shutter speed high enough... so I was thinking if it could be a good idea to set iso up to 6400, and the EV to -2 or even -3, then add back the exposure in LR. What do you think?
(I have a photographer colleague who swears it gives them a lot better quality image, but some people hate this method, so I can't make up my mind)
I think that is such a subjective thing, you need to just test it out yourself and see what you prefer. I would not underexpose, noise lives in midtones and shadows so I want to get as 'strong' a signal on the sensor as possible, so I would personally rather use ISO 12,800 and expose properly than bumping up +2 or +3 in exposure. But use whatever works for you, it's subjective :)
@@FlemmingBoJensen yes, I think you're right, I didn't think of that. Thanks for the detailed answer!
You are welcome :) I would think that it would be a bit hard to bump up the exposure of underexposed highlights without also bumping up all the noise, same as if you recorded something at -20db! But anyway, whatever works for each person is great :)
Just found your channel. Great videos. How much bigger/heavier is the body than an x-t1?
Thank you!
X-T1 is 440g. 129 x 90 x 47 mm. X-T5 is 557g. 130 x 91 x 64 mm. So they are almost identical, X-T5 just slightly heavier and thicker but still super compact.
@@FlemmingBoJensen thanks for the reply! Have an x-t50 on pre order but thinking of getting an x-t5 instead. I have an x-t1 and love the size of it.
what do you think of the X-S20? I'm in doubt whether to buy a XT5 or the new XS20
Hi. I have never used the X-S20, but from what I hear it is a really great and very capable hybrid camera. So is the X-T5, however they are very very different cameras, so I really suggest that you find a shop where you can handle both and try them out. The X-S20 is a much smaller camera, swivel vlogger type LCD screen and made as a compact hybrid stills/video camera. The X-T5 is a bigger body, with the classic dials and tilt screen primarily aimed at stills. Both great cameras, but very different so do try them out if you can.
Problems for me: IBIS/AF: not sure what is the problem cause the Fujifilm warranty service center didn't find a solution, but one out of every 20 shots is completely fallen apart, the whole thing is blur. This happens even at very high speeds in perfect light, so it seems like the IBIS might be kicking the sensor for some reason... but then it also happens when IBIS is turned off. (My X-E4 never had this problem)
Face/eye detection: Fujifilm seems to be focusing on the eye lashes instead of the iris.. so if I use an F/1.4 or 1.8 lens, the eyes are never actually sharp.
I must have put more than 100,000 exposures on each of my X-T5 and have never had that problem, that definitely sounds like a faulty camera. As for eye detection, I never use it and never shoot stuff where focus is that critical so I have no experience on that one.
@@FlemmingBoJensen to me that was wedding photography, so I expected the eyes to be actually sharp, but seems like I need to master MF+focus peaking for this purpose
Flemming please post more content, I shoot concert photography with the X-T5, but the file size and buffer became an issue.
I'm wandering if you still use them ? Thanks Steve.
Hi and thank you, yes I use my 2 x X-T5 almost everyday for concerts, love them so much. I have never filled the buffer on the X-T5s but yeah we all shoot in different ways.
Can i ask you, like I said I shoot with one X-T5 at the moment I can't afford a pair.
I can go back to a pair of X-T3s for my concert work, would that be a good move ? as you know swapping lenses in that environment isn't ideal.
Thanks Steve.
Yeah swapping lenses during a concert kinda sucks, especially if you are shooting 3 songs from the pit and every second counts. Do you have the X-T3s and the option to use an X-T5 and then X-T3 as a secondary camera? If so I would do that, they are similar enough that I think it'll work great
@@FlemmingBoJensen Hi, no I would have to trade down as it were, back to the X-T3s and not have the X-T5.
I ran into issues shooting Blaze Bayley recently, I had permission to shoot the whole gig but had to lense swap and the condensation was awful in the venue.
Thanks Steve.
Ah yes. I wouldn't personally choose to trade down, the X-T5 is such an amazing camera and a big improvement on the X-T3. I would wait until you can save up for a used X-T3 or something as the secondary camera.
Condensation can really suck, if possible make sure your lenses are adjusted to room temperature by exposing them to it for a while, arriving just before a sweaty gig with lenses coming from the outside and yeah one will be fighting condensation for a long time.
Great review and thanks. It's a-pity you didn't talk about the lenses that you use, That's the big deal is the lenses, for pro's. I shot Fuji for over 10 years, but have recently moved over to Nikon Z FF. On any system, the lenses are where it's at. I miss my XF16mm 1.4 - that was the lens of the century.
Thank you! This movie is about the camera :) I have used FUJIFILM professionally for 10 years and have done a lot of movies and blog posts about lenses already. And yes, the XF16mm1.4 is outstanding (even if the autofocus is so slow and it really needs a Mk2 now) and I have done several blog posts and movies on it.
@@FlemmingBoJensen I saw a reviewer recently note the 16 1.4 got a new breath of life with the current gen bodies/AF system... still noisy but much stickier to moving subjects. Have you noticed this at all?
That is interesting, I don't think I have used the 16mmF1.4 all that much the past year with the X-T5 but next time I use it I will definitely pay attention to whether it does less hunting (it hunts so badly in low light any improvements should be really easy to spot)
What are you favorite lenses?
XF16-55mmF2.8 and XF10-24mmF4 are my 2 most used and favourite lenses. I use a whole bunch of other lenses from time to time depending on the job, but those 2 are always with me.
Is the 10-24 not to slow for lowlight concert work? I've switched back to Fujifilm with the X-T5 and have my first concert with it on New Year's eve. I'm starting to get a bit concerned after leaving FF. I was going to use the 16mm 1.4, 33 1.4 and 90mm ?
@@stevenbamford5245 yes it is definitely too slow for lowlight smaller jobs, I don't use it for that, but since I mostly work larger productions for bands, the F4 works fine. When I shoot in smaller venues I bring exactly the setup you mention 16 and 33mm F1.4 and 90mm F2 !
Face detect overriding my selected metering mode is super annoying, and I don't get why it does that. Face detect is an AF mode - why does that mess with metering?
Yes omg it is so annoying - it just overrides any metering and goes with it's own face detect metering, why why why did they make this a feature you cannot turn off. I want face detection but don't interfere with my own metering modes, gah Fujifilm!
@@FlemmingBoJensen I'm pretty new to Fuji and this is one of a handful of things that struck me as really non-intuitive. Another having to do with subject detection: Why is face/eye detection a separate, mutually exclusive setting from subject detection? A face is just another type of subject. I think their AF settings and menu UI in general could be a lot more user-friendly. I also think there's a ton of room for improvement with touch screen features. My old Canon Rebel DSLR does touch screen far more intuitively. All that said, I love shooting with my X-T5 and having had time to internalize a lot of the UI/settings quirks, it's just some annoyances.
I agree, having face detection come with it's own metering and you can't turn it off is a seriously bad idea. Can't wait for some firmware fix so it can be turned off. As for subject detection ie birds etc, that is a very new thing so I think once it gets refined it gets better integrated with human subject detection :) As for the menus, I think all camera menu systems have their own weird quirks, once you get used to it and know where things are it will get easier. I have used Fujifilm exclusively for 11+ years now so I am totally lost if someone hands me any other camera hehe. As for touch screen, it is the first thing I turn off, I hate touch screen controlling a camera :)
@@FlemmingBoJensen I ended up turning off touch screen as well and fine without it. But I admit I'm slightly spoiled by my phone's "tap to track subject" feature and it just locks on to any arbitrary thing with seamless face detect. In DSLR world I did a lot of focus and recompose. Now I'm trying to get better at quickly choosing an AF point using the joystick, though focus/recompose still works as well.
I am pretty oldskool and never shoot with my phone and I also only shoot with my eye to the viewfinder 99% of the time :) But yeah I think from what I hear the capabilities of iphone camera software is out of this world and industry leading. I think the joystick works on Fujifilm, although I tend to focus and re-compose a lot more than I use the joystick, just old habit I think from before we had joysticks on cameras :)
on my xt30 I can change the face with the joystick
You can sort of do that on the X-T5, sometimes, only in AF-S and it does not stick, once I have taken a picture I need to try and select face all over again, it is so complete undependable for event and concerts. They really need a function like Sony where you can tell it "this is my subject" and it will learn and stick to that face no matter how many other visible faces come into the frame.