Earlier tonight I saw your video "Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert Dust Extraction Experiment" and was very impressed with the results. Also earlier I watch a video "Table Saw Overarm Dust Collection, Shop Built x 2" and was impressed with the build of something similar to the Shark collector in this video. His video prompted me to search for other similar videos and I found yours. I'm shocked by the cost of the Shark in this video and how poorly it performed. I'm going to make some zero clearance for my tablesaw as you did in your video. Thank you for your efforts, I really like your presentation style (I subscribed). Keep up the excellent work!
I do always enjoy your videos , keep up the content. I like the fact you do include your mistakes big or little , they help set in mind , " that's happened else ware " type thing
Zero clearance made a big difference for me! Currently building a biesemeyer fence to replace the banana shaped one (bought the saw 2nd hand), should reduce dust from re-cutting at the back of the blade too :)
1st, I love your content, big fan here in Dallas Texas. Question for you, I just bought a new Harvey Alpha table saw and the Shark overhead dust guard you have in this video, I also have the Incra Fence on my saw. I am not able to mount it on the Incra Fence rails for numerous reasons. I am wondering if The Phenolic top will hold the weight of the sharl guard? Do you have any help or other ideas you can offer?
Hi Steelhead, thank you and congrats on the new tools haul, sounds like a truly wonderful day in the workshop. Take at look at this older vid where I mode the guard to fit on my Hammer saw, in might help. 👍
Hi Graham, I'm sure you're all good now, so hopefully for others…. I think the strength of the magnet would increase if they didn't have a gap between them. You say (if the translation works correctly) that they are below the plane of the wooden board, and that is the reason for less power and the need for more magnets. Otherwise great job.👍👍👍 Davy from Prague
Hi Davy, thank you. I think you're spot on. I sank them lower to avoid chipping if I 'slap' it together, but they could be a little higher. Its still working very well without stronger magnets so I'll probably leave as is.👍
Just subscribed to you it was a great video agree with you about the magnets on the dust collection and I know who you’re talking about but I couldn’t tell you his name either. I have a suggestion for your excess dust when your guard is high you might want to look into the shoe brushes it comes in 100 mm long bristle and I think it’s a meter long on Amazon but I don’t know about on Amazon for the UK you may be could use the magnets and at the bottom of your guard run a piece of sheet metal from the screws that attach the clear covers were you could stick up to it when you don’t need it you can take it off Great video I’m gonna go look at the other one where you unboxed and set up a time
It appears to me you have NO dust collection inside the table saw under the blade . And how strong of cfm is your dust machine? Maybe you need a stronger cfm dust collecting machine. I have a 10ft. sliding panel saw that has 2 dust ports 2-1/2" above the blade and a 5inch port under the blade that catches dust from inside and under the blade. I don't get saw dust on top of the table like your getting, but I am going to buy one of these shark 12s units to improve catching what little I do get. But, I do think you need better dust collection inside your table saw. What do you think?
Hi Barry, I do have a Jet system connected up to both the Shark overhead and underneath the table saw blade, I would like to upgrade it but its a space and cost issue temporarily. 👍
That's good, what I have read and seen the least amount of sharp bends in your dust piping and the highest amount of cfm does a better job of extracting dust.
Nice video sir. I’ve designed above the table dust collection for my table saw in my head many times. Never executed the build though. In lieu of more magnets, consider drilling two holes on either end and using double headed nails as a registration pins to keep the top plate from rotating. Less elegant, but perhaps easier. Also, check out the zero clearance plate designed by fellow UA-camr Hooked on Wood. His is quite innovative.
Hi Dan, thats a really good point on the registration pins. A much better idea thank you. Yes, I had a version of Dennis's in mind when I mentioned it. He is good. 👌
Agree with the registration pins. I'd also make the bottom adapter piece L-shaped and use the side mounting holes of the original hose (where you taped it off)... will secure it it in place of glue/silicon and covers the old hose hole. Some high-density foam on the bottom will seal it.
@@GTWoodshop Certainly is. I like a lot of his workshop improvements. A real perfectionist. Thanks for the reference to the magnet video. Just watched t. Excellent. Will be using that idea. Cheers
@@GTWoodshop Just had a passing thought - you appear to have a substantial dust collection array, using soil/waste pipe. I'm thinking of using the same or similar but wondered if you have had any issues with earthing/grounding. I couldn't see any copper wire on your system so wondered if you are using copper tape inside the pipes or are you using anything at all - have you found it necessary? Thanks
@@craigturner2756 Hi Craig, I don't have any copper or grounding on the system anywhere, just the cheapest soil pipe I could find which happened to be the underground type at the time. I have given considerable thought to grounding, but came to the conclusion that its not required. I may be missing the point here but as its plastic pipe how can it catch fire. Ok so what about static build up?? Well I've been running my extractors using plastic pipe for over ten years without an issue, so am I just lucky???
Nice system, but very expensive for something that does not work well. I was looking at this arm and reviewed a few videos with the same findings as yours. I would have thought that running the hose off the arm and direct to the shield, not via that 90 degree hood attachment (that red box-like thing above the shield), would make it way better. Seems as if that 90 degree bend is killing the airflow at the worse point... right above the blade guard/shield. A good example of over-engineering IMHO.
I like the way you think and how you found a way to improve on the stock setup. I may use your ideas. May I ask how many HP your dust collector is and how many CFM it pulls?
Hi Boulder, thank you. My extractor is (currently) a Jet JCDC2 240v Dust Extractor 2159 M3/h, p 1872. I say currently as I am considering an upgrade. My new (last year) planer can overpower it leaving me with blocked pipes and a time consuming headache to clear. Jury is still out at the mo, still considering all the options. 👍
Im thinking of buying one of these. Curious.. is it possible to enlarge the existing port on the side of the guard from 60mm to 100mm? It's hard to tell from videos/images.
Hi Giolla, no is the short answer. I've just put a tape measure on it and you could maybe squeeze another 10mm, but you're starting to get really close to the edge and to the gas strut.
@@giollaliddy5817 Yes if you play around with the shape. there is more room underneath than above. I also think you would need to angle the custom adaptor to decrease the 90 degree bend as much as poss.
Earlier tonight I saw your video "Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert Dust Extraction Experiment" and was very impressed with the results. Also earlier I watch a video "Table Saw Overarm Dust Collection, Shop Built x 2" and was impressed with the build of something similar to the Shark collector in this video. His video prompted me to search for other similar videos and I found yours. I'm shocked by the cost of the Shark in this video and how poorly it performed. I'm going to make some zero clearance for my tablesaw as you did in your video. Thank you for your efforts, I really like your presentation style (I subscribed). Keep up the excellent work!
Thank you. 😁
Harvey needs to make an extended clear side piece so that when the fence interferes you would at least have the left side “captured”.
I do always enjoy your videos , keep up the content. I like the fact you do include your mistakes big or little , they help set in mind , " that's happened else ware " type thing
Hi Travis, thanks mate, appreciate it. 👍
Zero clearance made a big difference for me!
Currently building a biesemeyer fence to replace the banana shaped one (bought the saw 2nd hand), should reduce dust from re-cutting at the back of the blade too :)
Thanks for the info Jonas, let me know how the fence upgrade goes.
1st, I love your content, big fan here in Dallas Texas. Question for you, I just bought a new Harvey Alpha table saw and the Shark overhead dust guard you have in this video, I also have the Incra Fence on my saw. I am not able to mount it on the Incra Fence rails for numerous reasons. I am wondering if The Phenolic top will hold the weight of the sharl guard? Do you have any help or other ideas you can offer?
Hi Steelhead, thank you and congrats on the new tools haul, sounds like a truly wonderful day in the workshop. Take at look at this older vid where I mode the guard to fit on my Hammer saw, in might help. 👍
@@GTWoodshop I came up witha idea ! What do you think ? ua-cam.com/video/TQiLl4dY39U/v-deo.html
Hi Graham, I'm sure you're all good now, so hopefully for others….
I think the strength of the magnet would increase if they didn't have a gap between them. You say (if the translation works correctly) that they are below the plane of the wooden board, and that is the reason for less power and the need for more magnets. Otherwise great job.👍👍👍 Davy from Prague
Hi Davy, thank you. I think you're spot on. I sank them lower to avoid chipping if I 'slap' it together, but they could be a little higher. Its still working very well without stronger magnets so I'll probably leave as is.👍
@@GTWoodshop The main thing is that it works to your satisfaction. Good luck. Davy from Prague
@@dymancz I like that. 👍 Thanks Davy.
Just subscribed to you it was a great video agree with you about the magnets on the dust collection and I know who you’re talking about but I couldn’t tell you his name either.
I have a suggestion for your excess dust when your guard is high you might want to look into the shoe brushes it comes in 100 mm long bristle and I think it’s a meter long on Amazon but I don’t know about on Amazon for the UK you may be could use the magnets and at the bottom of your guard run a piece of sheet metal from the screws that attach the clear covers were you could stick up to it when you don’t need it you can take it off Great video I’m gonna go look at the other one where you unboxed and set up a time
Hi Ray, thank you and welcome to the fun side 👍. Thats a top idea about the brushes, similar to a cnc shoe, I'll defo look into that. 👍😎😊
How come you didn’t add bristles to the left side? That will keep all the dust from being thrown out from under it.
It appears to me you have NO dust collection inside the table saw under the blade . And how strong of cfm is your dust machine? Maybe you need a stronger cfm dust collecting machine. I have a 10ft. sliding panel saw that has 2 dust ports 2-1/2" above the blade and a 5inch port under the blade that catches dust from inside and under the blade. I don't get saw dust on top of the table like your getting, but I am going to buy one of these shark 12s units to improve catching what little I do get. But, I do think you need better dust collection inside your table saw. What do you think?
Hi Barry,
I do have a Jet system connected up to both the Shark overhead and underneath the table saw blade, I would like to upgrade it but its a space and cost issue temporarily. 👍
That's good, what I have read and seen the least amount of sharp bends in your dust piping and the highest amount of cfm does a better job of extracting dust.
Nice video sir. I’ve designed above the table dust collection for my table saw in my head many times. Never executed the build though. In lieu of more magnets, consider drilling two holes on either end and using double headed nails as a registration pins to keep the top plate from rotating. Less elegant, but perhaps easier. Also, check out the zero clearance plate designed by fellow UA-camr Hooked on Wood. His is quite innovative.
Hi Dan, thats a really good point on the registration pins. A much better idea thank you. Yes, I had a version of Dennis's in mind when I mentioned it. He is good. 👌
Agree with the registration pins. I'd also make the bottom adapter piece L-shaped and use the side mounting holes of the original hose (where you taped it off)... will secure it it in place of glue/silicon and covers the old hose hole. Some high-density foam on the bottom will seal it.
Take a look at the zero clearance tables insert video by Hooked on Wood. He has a pretty good one.
Hi Mark, yes I've been looking at Dennis's zero clearance insert, it is spot on isn't it?
In fact its so good I'm going to base mine on it. 👍
@@GTWoodshop Certainly is. I like a lot of his workshop improvements. A real perfectionist. Thanks for the reference to the magnet video. Just watched t. Excellent. Will be using that idea. Cheers
@@markscheiner3952 Welcome 👍
Inspiration personified. Too much? 🥴😂. Laughter aside this is awesome and your vid is a keeper - I will be using your idea myself. Thanks.
Hi Craig, top man, glad it will be useful. 👍 Zero clearance insert on the way.
@@GTWoodshop Just had a passing thought - you appear to have a substantial dust collection array, using soil/waste pipe. I'm thinking of using the same or similar but wondered if you have had any issues with earthing/grounding. I couldn't see any copper wire on your system so wondered if you are using copper tape inside the pipes or are you using anything at all - have you found it necessary? Thanks
@@craigturner2756 Hi Craig, I don't have any copper or grounding on the system anywhere, just the cheapest soil pipe I could find which happened to be the underground type at the time. I have given considerable thought to grounding, but came to the conclusion that its not required. I may be missing the point here but as its plastic pipe how can it catch fire. Ok so what about static build up?? Well I've been running my extractors using plastic pipe for over ten years without an issue, so am I just lucky???
You should go to work for Harvey and re-design their system.
Hi Bgm, open to offers. 😁👍
Nice system, but very expensive for something that does not work well. I was looking at this arm and reviewed a few videos with the same findings as yours. I would have thought that running the hose off the arm and direct to the shield, not via that 90 degree hood attachment (that red box-like thing above the shield), would make it way better. Seems as if that 90 degree bend is killing the airflow at the worse point... right above the blade guard/shield. A good example of over-engineering IMHO.
Hi CSI, I agree, really OTT. But solid as a rock, just really disappointing airflow.
I like the way you think and how you found a way to improve on the stock setup. I may use your ideas. May I ask how many HP your dust collector is and how many CFM it pulls?
Hi Boulder, thank you. My extractor is (currently) a Jet JCDC2 240v Dust Extractor 2159 M3/h, p 1872. I say currently as I am considering an upgrade. My new (last year) planer can overpower it leaving me with blocked pipes and a time consuming headache to clear. Jury is still out at the mo, still considering all the options. 👍
@@GTWoodshop Thanks for the detail. Much appreciated.
Im thinking of buying one of these. Curious.. is it possible to enlarge the existing port on the side of the guard from 60mm to 100mm? It's hard to tell from videos/images.
Hi Giolla, no is the short answer. I've just put a tape measure on it and you could maybe squeeze another 10mm, but you're starting to get really close to the edge and to the gas strut.
@@GTWoodshop what about above and below? How much space is available? It could be oblong or oval with a custom adaptor.
@@giollaliddy5817 Yes if you play around with the shape. there is more room underneath than above. I also think you would need to angle the custom adaptor to decrease the 90 degree bend as much as poss.