The shocks are from the original cougar design which they have carried through on all their budget cars, the design is from the early 90s, the foam parts are volume compensators and are not affected if they split. The reason why the screws are tight going in is because the moulded parts are made from a harder resin and you are threading a machine screw rather than a self tapping screw. Suspension for an onroad car needs to be checked when assembling for free movement, the binding is probable from a burr.
I think you should build the Schumacher Cougar Laydown next for a better comparison of how Schumacher kits have progressed since the Top Cat. I would also strongly suggest phoning or emailing Schumacher when you run into difficulties building their kits. Their support for technical advice is second to none. Trish has even said in his own videos, to email him directly for help.
I bought this chassis off Gav, the problem with the rear wishbones was because the rear left lower hub hinge, which I think is step 22, was too tight. It says in the manual to leave a 1mm gap, which is a lot more than you'd think. Gav had it darn near flush, so it was binding and not returning to it's fully extended "droop" position. Weird because he'd got the front ones bang on. One glaring omission from the manual that they have corrected for the LD2 that came after this, is that the inboard wishbone hinge pins need moly grease on them, particularly on first build. The moly is slightly corrosive to the plastic and frees the pivot action which is very tight out of the box. (you can go back to a regular, less corrosive grease later on 1st or second rebuild). The shocks became a bit incontinent so I'll take them apart and find out what the issue is there. I suspect that the seals need something like Avid Slop so they don't swell with the damper fluid and perish early. Again, a thing that you learn from running a Schumacher long term but is not in the manual, because no one had run them long term when it was written. I'm a Schumacher man to my bones, but they're always eccentric and built only with the track in mind. The downside is that if you come from Tamiya or Kyosho, you don't expect the problem solving and tinkering needed to perfect them. You have to invest many many hours getting to know them before they start performing. Which isn't everybody's cup of tea. But once you've gone through the curve, they tend to be the quickest and most rewarding to drive.
Tyres- sorex 28-32 depending on track I believe. Ask racers at location for best. Esc/motor- I use hobbywing 120 brushless sensor’d with a speed passion 21.5 but most use 13.5-17.5 at top end club.
It drives pretty well with a 10.5 brushless 👍 i wouldnt worry about the foams splitting, it doesnt effect the performance of the shocks. I cut mine to fit them as its easyer than trying to get them over the top 👍
I believe you have part # U8097 on backwards. Turn part 360 degrees around. Part # U4568 will be flush with Part U8097. Then the screw U7102 will go all the way in, still add thread lock. Hope this helps...:}
Excellent video as always, the mistakes made it quite funny:) Can't wait to see it running!! I remember having a Mi2 chassis years ago, always hated those dampers, I'd probably change them eventually....
The reason your belt gear is binding is probly due to the shaft that you screw into the motor mount backing out slightly when you done up the m3 bolt causing the binding. I did the same thing. Hope this helps.
Have you looked at the MST TCR chassis yet? I bought one and waiting but have seen many videos. I want both. I also have Tamyia civic which is a masterpiece.
There are two lots of vintage brushed motors on Ebay here in the U.S. They are auction and have 6 days left. I have them in my watch and may bid on them if the price is right. You might check them out and see if any are the ones you need.
Hey Gav, went to bed after watching your upload late last night and contemplated some of general comments before I drifted off. I was particularly analysing your description of the hard work needed to torque in the hardware. When I reflect back on the Schumacher kits I have built (and other modern design brands) I think it has to do with the 1. Plastic compound used. Most modern kits have that glass fibre style plastic compared to Tamiya’s nylon based. 2. The type of screw used. Again the newer designed kits tend to use a finer screw thread, where as Tamiya uses the self tapping styled thread that really cuts its way into the plastic. When I build a Schumacher, TLR, Team Associated etc. I tend to use a cordless 3.7 volt drill with the MIP drivers. I drive the screws 90% and nip the rest up by hand. I have full confidence in doing this. But with a Tamiya kit I do it all by hand, because I think that the screws tend to strip easier due to the aggressiveness of the thread, so I like to feel when it first starts to tighten and stop slightly short compared to other kits. Anyways it was just something that came to me. And I hope it gives you some feedback on why they feel so different according to my logic 😉
Yep a few people have said the same thing. It makes sense and that’s why we see a stronger part from other manufacturers vs Tamiya. I need to get myself a small electric screwdriver and some bits. The fingers will thank me, that’s for sure.
@@RCKickschannel A must purchase, especially for 1/8 scale. Mark Bryan on UA-cam reviewed one he got from Aldi UK. Same as the one I use but labeled different. Cheap but really good!
The spur gear locking up is still a problem even when everything is installed correctly. The spigot (U4568) unwinds as the little retaining bolt is tightened. The spigot needs to be tightened down. That seems obvious now, however it took me a while to realise there is a 3mm hex there to tighten the spigot!
When building shocks, don't use pliers, use a side cutter on the top most thread, grips the shaft well and won't damage the shaft where it goes through the o rings
@@RCKickschannel I've never used shock pliers (never found the need for a special tool) always side cutters and always worked a treat. Not everyone might be as lucky as you are and damage the shaft using normal pliers. Just trying to pass on a tip I've found works really well with no downside
@@RCKickschannel oh and getting mine this week, hoping for an easy build, looking forward to having a kit that has tuning possibilities again, rather than the Tamiya standard of fixed toe etc
@19:27 I Believe Schumacher knows about the delicate foam compensators, There's in fact a Note ''saying the shock still works with snapped compensators'' so there's the excuse for not putting spare ones. This entry-level would be great to compare it with another top Brand the SERPENT S411, I would really love to see your thoughts about it, plus I'm sure you will love the serpent Too. ;-)
Great video but I do wonder why you don't solder the battery bullets directly to the wires from the ESC. Would be a lot neater if you did. Deans connector seems redundant.
I only had three fortunately... But UA-cam has been going rampant with ads pretty much since the big rona outbreak... I guess because a lot of people willingly or unwillingly have to stay home, UA-cam has a lot more traffic and decided to cash in on it by ramping up the ads...
I won't be doing that $675.00 Pro Kit!!! I'm sure it's Race ready... But I haven't been a Pro Racer since 1994. 😲 However, at only $202.00 USD, absolutely worth it for my purposes. Even has Rear adjustable Toe!!! 👍👍 I do hope that Spare Belts are cheap and plentiful. If that's a standard 253-257mm Chassis, I might forego trying to FIND a Tamiya FF-03. More money - Less adjustability! Plus the central Motor is much better balanced. I'll be happy to support the British Economy!! Schumacher makes serious High Performance Cars. You'll like FWD. Unlike the bland Handling of the 1:1 counterparts, FWD TC Cars feel MUCH more stable, and easier to get around a corner fast. If you're running 2S, I'd recommend a 11.5T or 13.5T Brushless Motor... If 3S, a 15.5T or 17.5T Motor. 😉 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
@@RCKickschannel Yes, you did build one about a year ago. I did not know that you had sold it. I wish you had done a driving video before you sold it. I wanted to see what you thought of the car. I plan on building mine next week. Thoughts?
Hi Gavin, if the suspension isn’t dropping on its own, you must have built it incorrectly, especially if you push down and it pops back up again. Maybe 2 bearings on the parts that bind, sorry, I forgot the name of the section. It’s not a bad kit, especially being front wheel drive. Anyoldwho, niiiiiiice video Gav. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
@@RCKickschannel when building the kit, i would ream the spot where the shaft goes threw the arm. to make it floppy. I would check this before moving on to next step. I agree with mike somthing is wrong
What body did you end up getting? How close is it to the one that Schumacher uses in the picture? I like that body and want to make sure I get the right one.
I always love the music and what is that it's a what's McCall it sounds like a chocolate bar you can put it back and front are front to back either way you put it I got you back Gavin LOL you set me up for that Gavin bro the music's kicking it in that's awesome bro and upgraded chassis that's just asking for more money why couldn't they just put a good chassis into it to begin with you English people and y'all's upgrades it's like everything can be upgraded why don't you just make it strong to begin with and then whenever people tested they'll have their weak points and then they'll say I need to upgrade this part and they have an upgraded version for it reminds me of a Jaguar something situation I don't know just me maybe I'm lost in my own mind full set of bearings never heard of that it's cool on a kit reminds me of that old dirty bastard song Shimmy Shimmy y'all shimmy yay yeah baby I Like It Raw bro you know you had to have a gasket if you're going to put liquid in it haven't you seen Jay Leno I think we all have mistakes in the RC that's why it's good to have a hobby shop right next to you so that way if you can't figure it out you can ask somebody for help I'm on that same page have you ever seen a servo with the circle part instead instead of a arm I had to do that well I hope it works anyways sounds like a splitting headache I love that car it is pretty nice color with the decals L&L models has so many cool rims I would say it would be your choice Gavin I have different tastes than you but you know you rub off on me a little bit so I start liking that that's what I do it rubs off on me and I've become a little part of Gavin in my mind I like it Gavin Evans swagger thanks for the video buddy I try so hard to get an RC kicks like but what can I say or do I can't make anybody like me or change all I can do is put my effort into what I have to say well thanks anyways
The challenge is part of the fun I guess. Looking at this video though ua-cam.com/video/Z6a4vr2Z4_I/v-deo.html it doesn't look too bad from the outside.
The shocks are from the original cougar design which they have carried through on all their budget cars, the design is from the early 90s, the foam parts are volume compensators and are not affected if they split. The reason why the screws are tight going in is because the moulded parts are made from a harder resin and you are threading a machine screw rather than a self tapping screw.
Suspension for an onroad car needs to be checked when assembling for free movement, the binding is probable from a burr.
I think you should build the Schumacher Cougar Laydown next for a better comparison of how Schumacher kits have progressed since the Top Cat.
I would also strongly suggest phoning or emailing Schumacher when you run into difficulties building their kits. Their support for technical advice is second to none. Trish has even said in his own videos, to email him directly for help.
Definitely, i love mine
I bought this chassis off Gav, the problem with the rear wishbones was because the rear left lower hub hinge, which I think is step 22, was too tight. It says in the manual to leave a 1mm gap, which is a lot more than you'd think. Gav had it darn near flush, so it was binding and not returning to it's fully extended "droop" position. Weird because he'd got the front ones bang on. One glaring omission from the manual that they have corrected for the LD2 that came after this, is that the inboard wishbone hinge pins need moly grease on them, particularly on first build. The moly is slightly corrosive to the plastic and frees the pivot action which is very tight out of the box. (you can go back to a regular, less corrosive grease later on 1st or second rebuild).
The shocks became a bit incontinent so I'll take them apart and find out what the issue is there. I suspect that the seals need something like Avid Slop so they don't swell with the damper fluid and perish early. Again, a thing that you learn from running a Schumacher long term but is not in the manual, because no one had run them long term when it was written.
I'm a Schumacher man to my bones, but they're always eccentric and built only with the track in mind. The downside is that if you come from Tamiya or Kyosho, you don't expect the problem solving and tinkering needed to perfect them. You have to invest many many hours getting to know them before they start performing. Which isn't everybody's cup of tea. But once you've gone through the curve, they tend to be the quickest and most rewarding to drive.
I use some tissue or cloth on pliers so not to damage shock. Motor and ESC I would put 10.5t combo should fun
Tyres- sorex 28-32 depending on track I believe. Ask racers at location for best.
Esc/motor- I use hobbywing 120 brushless sensor’d with a speed passion 21.5 but most use 13.5-17.5 at top end club.
It drives pretty well with a 10.5 brushless 👍 i wouldnt worry about the foams splitting, it doesnt effect the performance of the shocks. I cut mine to fit them as its easyer than trying to get them over the top 👍
I think you should try some foams on this, im am using contact foams on my speedrun car and they grip great
Could be worth a try
I believe you have part # U8097 on backwards. Turn part 360 degrees around. Part # U4568 will be flush with Part U8097. Then the screw U7102 will go all the way in, still add thread lock.
Hope this helps...:}
Thank you. I made the same exact mistake as Gavin. U8097 was 180 degrees out.
I think your spur gear binding issue is that part u4568 is not screwed in all the way, it normally sits flush with the motor mount parts.
I’ll check it out 👍🏻
Yep step 44 shows the head of this part flush. I noticed in your chassis walk around video that part u4568 was sticking out a bit.
I had the same issue with the spur gear. It kept falling off. Thanks for the video, I’ll lock the screw with loctite.
Great video, looking forward to the running video as I’ve been eyeing one of these up
Sweet looking Kit 🤩👌🏻🎥 Love Seeing Some modern kits and Different Brands
Excellent video as always, the mistakes made it quite funny:) Can't wait to see it running!! I remember having a Mi2 chassis years ago, always hated those dampers, I'd probably change them eventually....
Might be the roll bar arm mount causing the arm to bind
The reason your belt gear is binding is probly due to the shaft that you screw into the motor mount backing out slightly when you done up the m3 bolt causing the binding. I did the same thing. Hope this helps.
I’ll check it out
Have you looked at the MST TCR chassis yet? I bought one and waiting but have seen many videos. I want both. I also have Tamyia civic which is a masterpiece.
Those dampers are interesting. Never seen a design like that. I like them!
There are two lots of vintage brushed motors on Ebay here in the U.S. They are auction and have 6 days left. I have them in my watch and may bid on them if the price is right. You might check them out and see if any are the ones you need.
RC stuff from the US normally ends up being too expensive when you add the import tax, handling charge and shipping fee.
Hey Gav, went to bed after watching your upload late last night and contemplated some of general comments before I drifted off. I was particularly analysing your description of the hard work needed to torque in the hardware. When I reflect back on the Schumacher kits I have built (and other modern design brands) I think it has to do with the 1. Plastic compound used. Most modern kits have that glass fibre style plastic compared to Tamiya’s nylon based. 2. The type of screw used. Again the newer designed kits tend to use a finer screw thread, where as Tamiya uses the self tapping styled thread that really cuts its way into the plastic.
When I build a Schumacher, TLR, Team Associated etc. I tend to use a cordless 3.7 volt drill with the MIP drivers. I drive the screws 90% and nip the rest up by hand. I have full confidence in doing this. But with a Tamiya kit I do it all by hand, because I think that the screws tend to strip easier due to the aggressiveness of the thread, so I like to feel when it first starts to tighten and stop slightly short compared to other kits.
Anyways it was just something that came to me. And I hope it gives you some feedback on why they feel so different according to my logic 😉
Yep a few people have said the same thing. It makes sense and that’s why we see a stronger part from other manufacturers vs Tamiya. I need to get myself a small electric screwdriver and some bits. The fingers will thank me, that’s for sure.
@@RCKickschannel A must purchase, especially for 1/8 scale. Mark Bryan on UA-cam reviewed one he got from Aldi UK. Same as the one I use but labeled different. Cheap but really good!
Loooks like a great kit. Could you configure it for RWD using the 4WD conversion?
The spur gear locking up is still a problem even when everything is installed correctly. The spigot (U4568) unwinds as the little retaining bolt is tightened. The spigot needs to be tightened down. That seems obvious now, however it took me a while to realise there is a 3mm hex there to tighten the spigot!
A 13.5t or a 10t would be fantastic. Hobbywing EZRun stuff works and looks great. If youre looking to go brushed a 17t would be great.
Yes, it's a typical Schumacher kit. Great video!!
When building shocks, don't use pliers, use a side cutter on the top most thread, grips the shaft well and won't damage the shaft where it goes through the o rings
Never had an issue and I’ve build hundreds of shocks. Yes you should and I agree it’s best practice but so far not a single issue.
@@RCKickschannel I've never used shock pliers (never found the need for a special tool) always side cutters and always worked a treat. Not everyone might be as lucky as you are and damage the shaft using normal pliers. Just trying to pass on a tip I've found works really well with no downside
@@RCKickschannel oh and getting mine this week, hoping for an easy build, looking forward to having a kit that has tuning possibilities again, rather than the Tamiya standard of fixed toe etc
@19:27 I Believe Schumacher knows about the delicate foam compensators, There's in fact a Note ''saying the shock still works with snapped compensators'' so there's the excuse for not putting spare ones. This entry-level would be great to compare it with another top Brand the SERPENT S411, I would really love to see your thoughts about it, plus I'm sure you will love the serpent Too. ;-)
I think your directional tires are on backwards.🤔
Great video but I do wonder why you don't solder the battery bullets directly to the wires from the ESC. Would be a lot neater if you did. Deans connector seems redundant.
I will be moving over to XT60 connectors at some point.
Not sure what’s happening with UA-cam tonight but your upload was littered with ads. I mean like 10 or so breaks for ads.
Super frustrating 🤯
I only had three fortunately... But UA-cam has been going rampant with ads pretty much since the big rona outbreak... I guess because a lot of people willingly or unwillingly have to stay home, UA-cam has a lot more traffic and decided to cash in on it by ramping up the ads...
@@Sponge1310 approximately every 2 minutes. First time it has been that frequent!
3 would be normal for one of RCKicks uploads.
just use adblocker. its free . no more youtube ads. 👍
Nice looking car
It drives really well. It's my only FWD car unfortunately but I really enjoy it.
I won't be doing that $675.00 Pro Kit!!! I'm sure it's Race ready... But I haven't been a Pro Racer since 1994. 😲
However, at only $202.00 USD, absolutely worth it for my purposes. Even has Rear adjustable Toe!!! 👍👍 I do hope that Spare Belts are cheap and plentiful.
If that's a standard 253-257mm Chassis, I might forego trying to FIND a Tamiya FF-03. More money - Less adjustability! Plus the central Motor is much better balanced.
I'll be happy to support the British Economy!! Schumacher makes serious High Performance Cars. You'll like FWD. Unlike the bland Handling of the 1:1 counterparts, FWD TC Cars feel MUCH more stable, and easier to get around a corner fast.
If you're running 2S, I'd recommend a 11.5T or 13.5T Brushless Motor...
If 3S, a 15.5T or 17.5T Motor. 😉
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
It’s a load of car for the money that’s for sure.
Diff mouldings u4175 are from a cat k1 and most model shops should have them or eBay.
Well after watching this build I’m feeling a bit better that I might not get this kit for another month or so.
So lesson learned, don't screw the wrong hole!
Hello Gavin, I was wondering when you were going to do a driving video of this car?
I did one ages ago if I remember correctly. I sold this car a few months ago.
@@RCKickschannel Yes, you did build one about a year ago. I did not know that you had sold it. I wish you had done a driving video before you sold it. I wanted to see what you thought of the car. I plan on building mine next week. Thoughts?
Found it, just like your illusive part!!
So is it basically a MI-1 but with only front drive?
Yep it was designed as a 4WD at the beginning.
Hi Gavin, if the suspension isn’t dropping on its own, you must have built it incorrectly, especially if you push down and it pops back up again. Maybe 2 bearings on the parts that bind, sorry, I forgot the name of the section. It’s not a bad kit, especially being front wheel drive. Anyoldwho, niiiiiiice video Gav. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
It feels ok now it’s built but yes, it should be free moving with no binding and it felt stiff while connecting up the arms.
@@RCKickschannel when building the kit, i would ream the spot where the shaft goes threw the arm. to make it floppy. I would check this before moving on to next step. I agree with mike somthing is wrong
Nice video amigo 😀👍
Check with the local track and find out what motor people are running in the class you want to be in
I bought a Mission ft, its 3/4 finished , I just don't have the patience or strength to finish it
Hi Gavin - what wheels and tyres did you go for?
The Schumacher Racing box art set
Klasse Video.
Wait... think you got to swap a front and a rear?🤔😊 Great video!
Well spotted, yes two were on backwards and I changed them towards the end.
Gav, can you build a Vintage Tamiya Lamboghini LP500s (all vintage) including mechanical speed controller ?
I can if someone wants to gift me a NIB one 😜
What body did you end up getting? How close is it to the one that Schumacher uses in the picture? I like that body and want to make sure I get the right one.
Yep it’s the same. I’m painting now as it goes. Same ish design and colours as the box art one, just not as good lol.
@@RCKickschannel so what body is that exactly? I can’t seem to figure it out.
@@RCKickschannel Never mind, I found it.... Mon-Tech 308 TCR
Enjoyed 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Shouldn't there be two bearings at step 5 instead of one? To prevent the binding? Since the image shows x2 at the bearing. Just a thought. 🙂
Looks like
Erm. 1 inside and 1 outside?
Maybe a shim / washer needed
Just downloaded the manual so I could see it better. It's the one on either side indeed. :)
Very nice video Gavin. Very pricey and with issues I think I will pass.
Watching and learning 👊🏻👍🏻
U8097 is the wrong way round did it on mine first time round
sensored brushless?
Sorry wrong degrees...lol. Its 180 Degrees.
17.5 or 13.5 should be good...
I always love the music and what is that it's a what's McCall it sounds like a chocolate bar you can put it back and front are front to back either way you put it I got you back Gavin LOL you set me up for that Gavin bro the music's kicking it in that's awesome bro and upgraded chassis that's just asking for more money why couldn't they just put a good chassis into it to begin with you English people and y'all's upgrades it's like everything can be upgraded why don't you just make it strong to begin with and then whenever people tested they'll have their weak points and then they'll say I need to upgrade this part and they have an upgraded version for it reminds me of a Jaguar something situation I don't know just me maybe I'm lost in my own mind full set of bearings never heard of that it's cool on a kit reminds me of that old dirty bastard song Shimmy Shimmy y'all shimmy yay yeah baby I Like It Raw bro you know you had to have a gasket if you're going to put liquid in it haven't you seen Jay Leno I think we all have mistakes in the RC that's why it's good to have a hobby shop right next to you so that way if you can't figure it out you can ask somebody for help I'm on that same page have you ever seen a servo with the circle part instead instead of a arm I had to do that well I hope it works anyways sounds like a splitting headache I love that car it is pretty nice color with the decals L&L models has so many cool rims I would say it would be your choice Gavin I have different tastes than you but you know you rub off on me a little bit so I start liking that that's what I do it rubs off on me and I've become a little part of Gavin in my mind I like it Gavin Evans swagger thanks for the video buddy I try so hard to get an RC kicks like but what can I say or do I can't make anybody like me or change all I can do is put my effort into what I have to say well thanks anyways
Look a dinosaur!!
Made you look!!
It wouldn't be a schumacher if it didn't try your patience🤯
It looks cool from a mechanical point of view but i can't imagine an FWD rc car handling too well without masses of understeer.
The challenge is part of the fun I guess. Looking at this video though ua-cam.com/video/Z6a4vr2Z4_I/v-deo.html it doesn't look too bad from the outside.
@@KacKLaPPeN23 that does look like some great skill from the drivers. I'd imagine a completely different drive style than rear and 4 wd
Nope, my bad! Not backwards!😆
Yeah yeah, blame Schumacher for you building it wrong... Go back to your Tamiya's lol
Jezzz.,, Adverts!!. Also, Stop quoting part numbers, Its massively boring and even a detailed focused person like me cant cope!!