The k4600 voltage regulator must test differently or something. I use this technique you showed us all the time but I tried it on a 4600 and I thought the voltage regulator was bad because I was only getting a reading on one of the legs and I didn't get a short when I touched the 2 leads together. So then I tried it on a known working chassis and I got the same readings.
yes, sometimes on some chassis the parts will test differently in circuit or out of circuit, it all depends on how they are designed. sometimes a basic test will not work on all parts. the G07 is another example on how they will test differently in circuit, but when you remove it it will test properly.
Super helpful, I've got a K7000 (K7131) thats a fuse destroyer before and after a cap kit. Pretty sure this was sent AC without a ISO transformer. I measured a .878 reading across the VR however my tester does not beep on the diode setting (by design). Do you think this is the culprit.
What kind of readings would indicate a voltage regulator that should probably be replaced even if it does not have any shorts? More specifically the k7000 voltage regulator. And let's say a symptom was a jittery image every so often ?
unless you have a scope and can power the regulator in a test fixture then looking for shorts is the best thing. the next test is in circuit if the chassis fires up and you can measure the B+ and it stays within a volt or so under load. depending on age and run time of the VR the readings you would get from a casual observation will not be consistent between VR's to have a "middle/common" range to test for. look for shorts and go from there.
Great video. Could you please tell me what the symptoms of a bad VR or a bad HOT would be. What would the monitor look like if one of these things was bad. I am not sure what each of these components does. I am working on a WG 4900. Thank You
HI, glad you like the video. if either are bad you will/can be popping fuses or the monitor will not work, it all depends on what part is bad if they are bad. if they are bad out of circuit they will be shorted together on all or most of the legs. on the 4900 the H.O.T. RARELY goes bad, i have seen 1-100 or more with a bad H.O.T., the VR maybe 1-50 or so, they just don't fail on that chassis often. if you need it repaired your welcome to send it in. just visit my site and email me.
no prob happy to do it. i have searched for a good wile and not found much that pertains to theses specific parts that arcade monitors use. so i figured it would be a good vid to make.
hi, very informative video, thanks for sharing :) by the way, do you know what is the maximum and minimum current most of darlington metal type can handle at the base? i have google research the data sheet but this what i have here looks like it was not publish online. i got it from scrap electronic part, i got lucky to find 1 that i test with diode meter and looks fine but i don't know how much current it could handle at the base, i'm worried
HI. glad you liked my video. sorry i do not know the answer to your question. if you have any doubts weather it can handle the load, if possible you can build a current limiter for your device. this way if there is a short, depending on your application, it should keep your device from burning up. the easy way is a 60-100w incandescent light bulb in series with your device. i use it in monitor repair to help minimize the damage to my chassis repairs if there is a hidden short or failure under load. good luck with your search.
thanks, i did put resistor just below 500 ohms to give me 20+ milliamps at base and i find out that most can only handle 7 amps at the collector so i should put something to limit it just below 7 amps. i am building a high voltage high frequency generator, just finished manually winding the transformer doing some test but need some more information so looking to learn some more.
to sidehatch69 it all depends weather you are measuring it in circuit or out of circuit. you are looking for a range of .400-.700 out of circuit on each leg. in circuit one leg will read around .150ish. Peace Buffett
How is testing a HOT transistor different than testing a normal transistor? because other arcade repair tech tell me that HOT transistors will measure and test differently than a normal transistor and will trick you into thinking the HOT transistor is shorted when its not because the DVM diode tester mode measures HOT transistor differently than a normal transistor. The Schematic of a HOT looks just the same as a normal transistor so im confused why the HOT transistor would test differently than a normal transistor
@@waynegram8907 if the B,C,E is different on any of what your testing they will be different, the concept is the same and the meter readings will be the same when you are on the correct legs with your meter. you will still ready between a .4 and .6 if the diodes are good in the transistor your reading. as an example, the 4904 and the 4906 are polar opposite of each other, one is an NPN and the other is a PNP, they read the same with your meter probes on different legs, the 4904, the black meter lead is on the center leg, the 4906, the red lead is on the center leg, same readings but different internal configuration of the diodes. so yes and no, none are the same some are the same and everything has an exception, always remember that.
NEVER seen an output transistor give a reading with negative on collector and positive on both the emitter and the base. You should get a reading with + on the base but not on the base.
no prob happy to do it. i have searched for a good wile and not found much that pertains to theses specific parts that arcade monitors use. so i figured it would be a good vid to make.
thanks
lets hope it will help others that do not know how to measure their parts.
and spend extra money they do not have to in repairs.
Great video Buffet! Very useful info
thanks, glad it was helpful.
Excellent video thanks very much
Glad you found it helpful.
The k4600 voltage regulator must test differently or something. I use this technique you showed us all the time but I tried it on a 4600 and I thought the voltage regulator was bad because I was only getting a reading on one of the legs and I didn't get a short when I touched the 2 leads together. So then I tried it on a known working chassis and I got the same readings.
yes, sometimes on some chassis the parts will test differently in circuit or out of circuit, it all depends on how they are designed.
sometimes a basic test will not work on all parts.
the G07 is another example on how they will test differently in circuit, but when you remove it it will test properly.
@@buffett1978 actually I got the same readings on the 4600 chassis in and out of circuit
Super helpful, I've got a K7000 (K7131) thats a fuse destroyer before and after a cap kit. Pretty sure this was sent AC without a ISO transformer. I measured a .878 reading across the VR however my tester does not beep on the diode setting (by design). Do you think this is the culprit.
What kind of readings would indicate a voltage regulator that should probably be replaced even if it does not have any shorts? More specifically the k7000 voltage regulator. And let's say a symptom was a jittery image every so often ?
unless you have a scope and can power the regulator in a test fixture then looking for shorts is the best thing.
the next test is in circuit if the chassis fires up and you can measure the B+ and it stays within a volt or so under load.
depending on age and run time of the VR the readings you would get from a casual observation will not be consistent between VR's to have a "middle/common" range to test for.
look for shorts and go from there.
Great video. Could you please tell me what the symptoms of a bad VR or a bad HOT would be. What would the monitor look like if one of these things was bad. I am not sure what each of these components does. I am working on a WG 4900. Thank You
HI, glad you like the video.
if either are bad you will/can be popping fuses or the monitor will not work, it all depends on what part is bad if they are bad.
if they are bad out of circuit they will be shorted together on all or most of the legs. on the 4900 the H.O.T. RARELY goes bad, i have seen 1-100 or more with a bad H.O.T., the VR maybe 1-50 or so, they just don't fail on that chassis often.
if you need it repaired your welcome to send it in.
just visit my site and email me.
no prob happy to do it.
i have searched for a good wile and not found much that
pertains to theses specific parts that arcade monitors use.
so i figured it would be a good vid to make.
Buffett Arcade Man
very informative. I need to learn how to understand my multimeter better.
This is fantastic!
thanks for this very helpful tutorial!
glad it is a helpful video.
i made it because theses questions are asked over and over again.
Thanks for the great detailed video!
Thanks for the video. Good info.
+Jason M. thanks, glad you found it useful.
hi, very informative video, thanks for sharing :)
by the way, do you know what is the maximum and minimum current most of darlington metal type can handle at the base? i have google research the data sheet but this what i have here looks like it was not publish online. i got it from scrap electronic part, i got lucky to find 1 that i test with diode meter and looks fine but i don't know how much current it could handle at the base, i'm worried
HI. glad you liked my video.
sorry i do not know the answer to your question.
if you have any doubts weather it can handle the load, if possible you can build a current limiter for your device.
this way if there is a short, depending on your application, it should keep your device from burning up.
the easy way is a 60-100w incandescent light bulb in series with your device. i use it in monitor repair to help minimize the damage to my chassis repairs if there is a hidden short or failure under load.
good luck with your search.
thanks, i did put resistor just below 500 ohms to give me 20+ milliamps at base and i find out that most can only handle 7 amps at the collector so i should put something to limit it just below 7 amps.
i am building a high voltage high frequency generator, just finished manually winding the transformer doing some test but need some more information so looking to learn some more.
to sidehatch69 it all depends weather you are measuring it in circuit or out of circuit.
you are looking for a range of .400-.700 out of circuit on each leg.
in circuit one leg will read around .150ish.
Peace
Buffett
How is testing a HOT transistor different than testing a normal transistor? because other arcade repair tech tell me that HOT transistors will measure and test differently than a normal transistor and will trick you into thinking the HOT transistor is shorted when its not because the DVM diode tester mode measures HOT transistor differently than a normal transistor. The Schematic of a HOT looks just the same as a normal transistor so im confused why the HOT transistor would test differently than a normal transistor
@@waynegram8907 if the B,C,E is different on any of what your testing they will be different, the concept is the same and the meter readings will be the same when you are on the correct legs with your meter. you will still ready between a .4 and .6 if the diodes are good in the transistor your reading. as an example, the 4904 and the 4906 are polar opposite of each other, one is an NPN and the other is a PNP, they read the same with your meter probes on different legs, the 4904, the black meter lead is on the center leg, the 4906, the red lead is on the center leg, same readings but different internal configuration of the diodes.
so yes and no, none are the same some are the same and everything has an exception, always remember that.
Can these be tested while they are still on the chassis or do they need to be removed to test?
Hi, some can and some cannot, results vary per chassis.
if they test bad or funny, remove them from circuit and test again.
Excellent information. THANKS!
NEVER seen an output transistor give a reading with negative on collector and positive on both the emitter and the base. You should get a reading with + on the base but not on the base.
then you need to get into ARCADE monitor repair, you see ALL kinds of things you would never expect.
YESSS!!!!
Collector-itis
long winded
would you prefer i leave out important details.
then the video would be useless.
when i look for info on things i hate the short incomplete videos.
Buffett Arcade Man you did a great job thanks
no prob happy to do it.
i have searched for a good wile and not found much that
pertains to theses specific parts that arcade monitors use.
so i figured it would be a good vid to make.