It was the best I could find on Epidemic Sound. I was hoping they would have had something a little closer to the typical theme music for that kind of topic. :)
I did the same on my '67 convertible. I also put on new strut rods, lower control arms w new ball joints, upper control arms w new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, center-link, control valve with hoses, slave cylinder and idler arm (all from CJ Pony Parts)! 😜 Great video...also love the Willwood disc brakes!
Thanks! Yeah, it would be great to upgrade my car with your list, but alas, I can only do a small part at a time. Eventually it will be all new like your list. :)
@@raymondrauchle497 Yes, I did also add a rear sway bar, in a separate video. The upgrades were a great improvement to the car, but unfortunately I sold the car not long after doing these bars so I didn't get as much seat time as I wanted to really see how well the car was doing. Thankfully I'll be doing more suspension upgrades on my new project car, but I haven't decided if I'm going to do the rear bar again or step up to a panhard bar setup. :)
On the side linkages you placed the bolt head at the bottom and nut on top. I’ve just removed mine and it’s bolt head was at top. I think yours is right; however, I always thought the general rule was bolt facing downwards (so it wasn’t lost if undone). As i said, I think you’re right … so I’m following your lead! Thanks for all the videos - very helpful (and motivating!) BTW: I went with the FSB2B part number for a 289 68 Mustang.
That scenario you describe sounds reasonable, with the nut getting lost and the bolt remaining because it's harder for it to fall out of the top of the assembly. However, in this particular setup, the bolt is often too long and if it wen the way you described it could get hit, bent, or damaged with those extra threads hanging down low. I'm only going off of what was installed in my car and pictures I've seen. However, I find it interesting that all the pics of the stocks bars I can find have the bolts head on the bottom, but all the aftermarket bar pics seem to have the bolts going the other direction. For now I'm going to stick with the way it was installed at the factory. :) Good luck with your new bar!
I love my new sway bar and the Mustang’s feel! Your video was my go-to instructions. Yet I still have a question: At 9m20s you talk about how tight to bolt down the front link bushing but forgo mentioning about if the sleeve was meant to be able to rotate slightly or if it was meant to be locked in place by the tightness of the bolt. I really can’t tell either way presently. Thanks in advance!
Awesome, I'm glad you're able to pull some helpful info from this video! That sleeve should not be spinning, you'll want to tighten that nut on the bolt so the bushings are squished a little. :)
Great video as always, Andy! Do you think something like this would be helpful on my '65 i6? Trying to slowly replace suspension parts as budget allows and tighten up the otherwise vague steering/cornering feel. Thank you!!
Thanks! Without knowing the details of your modified or stock suspension, it would be hard to recommend this bar. However, because I have stiffer springs and stickier tires, it was a logical next step on my car when trying to tighten up the steering/cornering feel. A larger front sway bar will transfer the loads generated during cornering to other components since the bar is less will to twist. Your springs and tires will do more of the work with a larger front bar. If your ride is set up for that, then this might be your next step. You'll also want to take a peek at your steering linkage, tie rods, and ball joints to make sure they're not worn out and up to the task. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel sorry, you're right. I should have mentioned that - I believe I am working with a pretty stock setup on my '65 inline 6. My stock sway bar measures 0.70" on a digital caliper, so if I replaced just the bushings, do you know what size bushing I would replace it with? That size sway bar doesn't look to have an associated replacement bushing. The closest bushing kit seems to be 3/4" but I'm not quite sure. The next size down is 5/8" which seems like it would be too small.
@@banks412 Good question. If you're only options were the 5/8 or 3/4 bushings, I'd go with the 5/8 bushings since the 3/4 units would be larger than the bar and bar would likely "float" and not be held by the bushings. If this whole thing was just about replacing the bushings for the swaybar, then this should be it. If you're trying to improve handling over stock, read on. :) You're in a tough spot because I know the feeling of wanting to make upgrades, but sometimes the upgrade path is unclear or the budget won't allow the needed upgrades to happen soon. Tires and springs will offer a large performance enhancement, but neither are as cheap as the sway bar. Unfortunately, you'll want to address the brakes before you go much farther down the upgrade path as those stock drums are not up to the task of stopping the car if you're looking to improve the handling at speeds above normal cruising. While you're there, upgrading the single bowl master cylinder to a dual bowl is almost a must as it becomes a safety issue, which is arguably more important than any kind of performance numbers you're chasing. Lastly, these cars require quite a bit of component upgrades to make this car handle like anything from the last 20 years (assuming the last 20 years has supplied us with better handling cars). I feel like I'm raining on your parade, but a swaybar needs to be further down the list until you've addressed everything I mentioned before this point.
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much for your response. I think we’re on the same page, as most if not all of the ‘upgrades’ I’ve made are really safety related so far as opposed to performance, but I guess you could look at it either way. ;) I do have disc brakes up front and drums in the rear, so I’m ok there I think. I’ve also replaced the shocks all the way around but not the springs, and I acknowledge that does need to be done. Installed the export brace. Master cylinder upgraded to a dual bowl from the single. And I did do shoulder seat belts front and rear but that has no real bearing on this. :) I’m really not looking to make major performance upgrades - just some minor ones that will help make the car a bit safer and maybe ride/feel a little better while underway. As always - I can’t thank you enough for your feedback, and now to go find your video on replacing the springs! 😂 It’s always something…
The front end feels a little more planted than before. The larger front bar just pushes the understeer point up. Meaning, the car will still understeer, but at a higher speed. This is perfect as I don't plan on taking this car to its limit, but I can have a little more fun in the twisties. A great match with this bar is a Rear Sway Bar, more on that soon. ;)
That music when you were greasing up the "bushings" 🤣😂😅
It was the best I could find on Epidemic Sound. I was hoping they would have had something a little closer to the typical theme music for that kind of topic. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel it reminded me of some vintage music from the 70s played when another bush was getting greased😅🤣
@@keepingupwiththejones2933 Bow chicka bow wow! :D
Now that seems more like a good upgrade for street Mustang, nice straight forward install without too much trouble, especially the new bushings thanks
No problem! :)
Nice work. You'll like the bigger sway bar. Really helps tighten up the front end on corners.
Thanks!
Definitely, this car is starting to get dialed in, it's getting much more fun to drive!
I did the same on my '67 convertible. I also put on new strut rods, lower control arms w new ball joints, upper control arms w new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, center-link, control valve with hoses, slave cylinder and idler arm (all from CJ Pony Parts)! 😜
Great video...also love the Willwood disc brakes!
Thanks!
Yeah, it would be great to upgrade my car with your list, but alas, I can only do a small part at a time. Eventually it will be all new like your list. :)
Dennis, did the new parts make a big difference in the handling of your car? Did you upgrade your sway bar as well?
@@raymondrauchle497 Yes, I did also add a rear sway bar, in a separate video. The upgrades were a great improvement to the car, but unfortunately I sold the car not long after doing these bars so I didn't get as much seat time as I wanted to really see how well the car was doing. Thankfully I'll be doing more suspension upgrades on my new project car, but I haven't decided if I'm going to do the rear bar again or step up to a panhard bar setup. :)
@@raymondrauchle497 yes, big difference!
On the side linkages you placed the bolt head at the bottom and nut on top. I’ve just removed mine and it’s bolt head was at top. I think yours is right; however, I always thought the general rule was bolt facing downwards (so it wasn’t lost if undone). As i said, I think you’re right … so I’m following your lead! Thanks for all the videos - very helpful (and motivating!)
BTW: I went with the FSB2B part number for a 289 68 Mustang.
That scenario you describe sounds reasonable, with the nut getting lost and the bolt remaining because it's harder for it to fall out of the top of the assembly. However, in this particular setup, the bolt is often too long and if it wen the way you described it could get hit, bent, or damaged with those extra threads hanging down low. I'm only going off of what was installed in my car and pictures I've seen. However, I find it interesting that all the pics of the stocks bars I can find have the bolts head on the bottom, but all the aftermarket bar pics seem to have the bolts going the other direction. For now I'm going to stick with the way it was installed at the factory. :)
Good luck with your new bar!
Another great video Andy! Thanks for sharing! MD
Glad you enjoyed it!!
I love my new sway bar and the Mustang’s feel! Your video was my go-to instructions. Yet I still have a question: At 9m20s you talk about how tight to bolt down the front link bushing but forgo mentioning about if the sleeve was meant to be able to rotate slightly or if it was meant to be locked in place by the tightness of the bolt. I really can’t tell either way presently. Thanks in advance!
Awesome, I'm glad you're able to pull some helpful info from this video! That sleeve should not be spinning, you'll want to tighten that nut on the bolt so the bushings are squished a little. :)
queue the sexy music @5:08 LOL Great video, very informative. Just need to get my sway bar now.
Haha, that music was the best I could find that was free, but it works. :)
Great video as always, Andy! Do you think something like this would be helpful on my '65 i6? Trying to slowly replace suspension parts as budget allows and tighten up the otherwise vague steering/cornering feel. Thank you!!
Thanks!
Without knowing the details of your modified or stock suspension, it would be hard to recommend this bar. However, because I have stiffer springs and stickier tires, it was a logical next step on my car when trying to tighten up the steering/cornering feel. A larger front sway bar will transfer the loads generated during cornering to other components since the bar is less will to twist. Your springs and tires will do more of the work with a larger front bar. If your ride is set up for that, then this might be your next step. You'll also want to take a peek at your steering linkage, tie rods, and ball joints to make sure they're not worn out and up to the task. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel sorry, you're right. I should have mentioned that - I believe I am working with a pretty stock setup on my '65 inline 6. My stock sway bar measures 0.70" on a digital caliper, so if I replaced just the bushings, do you know what size bushing I would replace it with? That size sway bar doesn't look to have an associated replacement bushing. The closest bushing kit seems to be 3/4" but I'm not quite sure. The next size down is 5/8" which seems like it would be too small.
@@banks412 Good question. If you're only options were the 5/8 or 3/4 bushings, I'd go with the 5/8 bushings since the 3/4 units would be larger than the bar and bar would likely "float" and not be held by the bushings. If this whole thing was just about replacing the bushings for the swaybar, then this should be it. If you're trying to improve handling over stock, read on. :)
You're in a tough spot because I know the feeling of wanting to make upgrades, but sometimes the upgrade path is unclear or the budget won't allow the needed upgrades to happen soon. Tires and springs will offer a large performance enhancement, but neither are as cheap as the sway bar. Unfortunately, you'll want to address the brakes before you go much farther down the upgrade path as those stock drums are not up to the task of stopping the car if you're looking to improve the handling at speeds above normal cruising. While you're there, upgrading the single bowl master cylinder to a dual bowl is almost a must as it becomes a safety issue, which is arguably more important than any kind of performance numbers you're chasing. Lastly, these cars require quite a bit of component upgrades to make this car handle like anything from the last 20 years (assuming the last 20 years has supplied us with better handling cars). I feel like I'm raining on your parade, but a swaybar needs to be further down the list until you've addressed everything I mentioned before this point.
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much for your response. I think we’re on the same page, as most if not all of the ‘upgrades’ I’ve made are really safety related so far as opposed to performance, but I guess you could look at it either way. ;) I do have disc brakes up front and drums in the rear, so I’m ok there I think. I’ve also replaced the shocks all the way around but not the springs, and I acknowledge that does need to be done. Installed the export brace. Master cylinder upgraded to a dual bowl from the single. And I did do shoulder seat belts front and rear but that has no real bearing on this. :) I’m really not looking to make major performance upgrades - just some minor ones that will help make the car a bit safer and maybe ride/feel a little better while underway. As always - I can’t thank you enough for your feedback, and now to go find your video on replacing the springs! 😂 It’s always something…
What grease did you use?
Just some standard axle grease. :)
Getting closer to 1000 subscribers ❤
Not sure why this comment finally showed up, but I'll respond now. Yup, made it to 1000. :)
What brand did you go with on the sway bar?
Front Sway Bar (from CJ Pony Parts) - part number FSB4
Bushings and end links included with sway bar
How was the drive?
The front end feels a little more planted than before. The larger front bar just pushes the understeer point up. Meaning, the car will still understeer, but at a higher speed. This is perfect as I don't plan on taking this car to its limit, but I can have a little more fun in the twisties. A great match with this bar is a Rear Sway Bar, more on that soon. ;)
@@AndyKruseChannel Are you going to do a rear sway bar?
@@jgalloway01 Yes, but I've got a few other great videos coming out first. :)