I know this is an old video but I want to thank you. I am new to electronics and while I have built quite a few projects, it is often difficult for me to look at a schematic and understand what is happening. The terminology also can be confusing. I read an Instructable which gave a schematic and explained how to build one of these, but I was still confused. Your video slowly worked us through what is happening and why you added the components. Thanks!
Fantastic explanation, the simplicity is beautiful, I would have never thought just to rectify the output and negate the need for zero crossing detection and the use of costly interrupts. also the fact that you can dim to full zero. Nice work and Thank you for sharing.
Je vous remercie pour ce montage, simple et parfaitement actif. J'ai realisé une carte de 60x35mm sur 20mm de haut. Pour l'integration maximum, l' IGBT a etait monté en aerien horizontale au dessus d'autres composant ainsi que le condensateur de 100uf,car aucune chauffe des composants n'a etait détecté. Google Translate: Thank you for this assembly, simple and fully active. I realized a 60x35mm board 20mm high. For maximum integration, the IGBT was mounted in a horizontal aerial above other component and the 100uF capacitor as no heating component was not detected.
Hi - Fantastic video. I made the circuit and it works apart from the fact the lamp flickers - it did - until I put the circuit onto stripboard - must have been a dodgy breadboard. Thanks for getting back and trying to help - circuit is flicker free and working a treat ! thanks again
Jabber Gabber Errr... I don't know. The flicker-free operation has always been a buty of this circuit. When does it flicker? Does it flicker just on the low brightness? Or all the scale?
+Jaroslav Hruškovič You say that it flickers at values analogWrite(11,50) - 50 and above it starts to calm down. As the transistor makes a negation, do I understand it correctly that the flicker occurs at full brightness, then continues when you start dimming and then it works ok for the whole range of brightness from dimmed to full dark? If this is the case, it may be related to the fact that capacitor discharges too fast and looses the voltage within one pwm cycle. Can you give me the values of the capacitor and two resistors that are discharging it? Also please specify the one which is short circuited by the transistor.
2+ lights would probably need a 2+ separate circuits, one for each light. The only shared resource might be the arduino which may control as many lamps as many PWM outputs it has.
Amazingly well explained, thank you very much! I'm looking for an efficient way to dim a commercial LED light bulb (e.g., Philips 10 W), do you think this kind of modern light bulb can be dimmable varying its input voltage? I'm planning to buy a VARIAC to see if it really works... THUMBS UP!
I doubt that would work. There is an unpredictable electronics inside. Try the commercial dimmer to see if it works. If so, chances are this circuit will do the trick too.
Excellent Explanation and Video - thanks for sharing ! you are very talented on explaining things - cant wait to see your next video :) kind regards Mike
Hi, I currently upgraded the circuit for the 400W lamp. The wiring however, stays the same. I meanwhile tried another wiring but that I am not going to publish because it has serious disadvantages. In my case I burnt the transistor when the dutycycle reached 100% as there was a voltage dropping on the gate so low that the transistor was semi-open and thus had a enormous power dissipating. Currently, I am thinking of using two transistors wired complementary so that each handles one half of the sinewave.
Hello! I experimented with a circuit very similar and it worked very well! But I have a question why it works this way and not with SSR? Because I experimented with an SSR and what I observed was not uniform illumination. As erratic Thank you!
hello ! First i want to thank you for the video . i just want to know what is the reference of the diode that you used for the bridge and also the other diode, then the value of the resistence related to arduino. i looking forward to have your answer soon, thank you.
It has been quite a long time, now I don't remember the exact type. But just use any that withstands 400V reverse voltage and a current adequate to your load.
Hi!!! Jaroslav Hruškovič excellent explanation!!!! My question is: Can i put the bulb in one specific illumination for the time that i want. My question comes because in the video you have a infinity loop an the bulb is doing the loop and never stop in specific time. Thanks!!!
Hi Jaroslav, thanks for the video. I'm not sure if i am right, but if we try to drive a CFL or an LED Lamp, could the DC filter capacitor integral to the lamp act as a short due to the high switching frequency?
Yes, the current is rectified but that doesn't mean that it is DC. It still oscillates so you need another diode to keep the capacitor charged all the time.
Is there a way to get rid of the diode bridge and still output AC ? Maybe with two mosfets ? What is the maximum reverse voltage that mosfet or igbt can endure ?
perfect, just what i searched for. i hope you'll figure out ways of making it more safe, as i would love to use this concept for a stage lighting project! thanks!
Thank ou very much , Im going to try this but need about 16A to manage , and Im going to combine it with Current measuring device to make it PID regulated with feedback.
hello, i need to control a submersible pump of 110V by an arduino, this circuit could help me? and i dont know what is the value of the resistence that conects the arduino with the optocoupler, thank you, if you could help me i will thank you so much
From what you've described it may work flicker free. But keep in mind that the tube may have it's electronics built in, so it may respond unpredictably.
Hi Jaroslav, great work!!! I would like to control a blender's motor of 400W. With 127v instead of 220v. I already made the proper changes of resistor and capacitor. I'm using a irgp4063d and a 4n25. And I add a current sensor to control the AC motor through its current (for scholar purposes). I would like to use the IGBT for that, do you think it's possible? Thank you very much.
Hi, beware of what type of motor you have in the blender. If you use a similar circuit as I did, the output has a high DC bias, so make some research if your motor works at those conditions. Otherwise, the IGBT itself is ok, even better that you use 127V instead of 220V, that may be easier to find a proper IGBT.
Hello! Nice project !I wanted to adapt the circuit for an electric shower of 5500 w. what values of components I use this case to the circuit? A triac model BTA41-600 can replace the transistor in this case?
Hi, no, you cannot replace transistor with triac. It would just not work unless you change the code accordingly. And then it may involve a zero crossing detection an all those inconveniencies.
Hi Jaroslav, Thank you for the nice tutorial , what if we replaced the opto-coupler and bridge rectifier with a solid state relay do we still need IGBT transistor ?
I replicated this circuit and found the hum noise at low brightness (high PWM) to be very audible and a little disturbing. It seemed I could even get it resonating with the bulb in some way and amplifying the noise substantially. Would a capacitor in parallel with the bulb help reduce this hum due to charge/discharge smoothing of the gated supply? Also would lowering the PWM frequency help since the thermal cycling rate would be much lowered?
Hi, lowering the frequency would not help. I think just opposite, on very low frequencies, the hum may be even more accented. I also think that there may be a lamp which has its own mechanical resonance of the wire by coincidence equal to the arduino's PWM frequency. Then changing the frequency to higher or lower may help. The capacitor might help too.
Im surprised with this since tou used AC bulb but in your diagram you use a diode that rectifies AC to DC therefore your AC Light bulb is now using DC? Thanks.
The bulb isn't AC or DC. It just works with both types of current. In this aspect, the bulb is very easy going, unlike a motor or transformer or other electronics.
Im trying to find a solution to drive an ac motor with and arduino. Namely a O gauge train set that uses ac on the center rail. variable voltage from 0 to about 15 volts. unsure of current. any suggestions?
Do you think the approach of this circuit could be used to control the electric motor of a model train where the top voltage is 20 VAC but the amperage can be up to 5 amps.
I doubt. The output has a significant DC bias which may burn the motor. But I am looking for a volunteer to test it, so please report the result if you decide to test.
Err.. I might have missed the point. An optocoupler such as a 4N25 is used just for case, to save the low voltage electronics if something goes wrong in the high voltage circuit. Theoreticaly it does't need to be there. IRF P460 will work too, but the case with optocoupler stays the same.
Yes igbt transistor is capable to handle dc and ac current. and has very common usage in variable frequency drivers. like Danfoss softstart for control induction motors. it's very cool 😋
Can i connect the lamp sequentially with this whole device instead of attach it to transistor? Connecting this way can provide the AC to the load instead of pulsing DC.
put the load (MOTOR) on the other side and short the load connection with IGBT. This will enable an AC wave travelling from motor while IGBT will drive the power ac is converter to dc.
Yes, it is the simple electrolytic capacitor, I think it is 1000uF, 320V. I had this earlier, so I used it. In reality, it a lot smaller one might be used.
Hi Jaroslav, I came across your design and it is really nice especially for its simplicity and the space it leaves for Arduino do something meaningful than zero crossing detection. I want to use the circuit for regulation of heating (60W) and to use ESP8266 01 as the controller. Unfortunately, when testing it, I realized that the dimming works fine but the transistor (IRG4PC40WPbF) gets hot after 3-5 minutes and stops dimming. Would you have any idea what could be wrong? The only thing which is different from yours is that I use ESP8266 which has the PWM sampling from 0 to 1023, but I doubt this is the reason. Thank you.
Hmm... I cannot figure out the exact reason but I think that you should check whether the transistor is opening and closing rapidly. It shouldn't happen that it is semi closed or semi open for a long time because in this state it has major energy loss. When closed, I =0A, therefore as P= U*I, the P=0. When fully open, U=approx 0V, therefore as P= U*I, the P=0. in any other state the power is significantly higher and that is what heats up your transistor.
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 Hi Jaroslav, thank you for your quick response. I decreased the resistor at the optocoupler and the problem is gone. I had there 1K and ESP works on 3.3V, so it was apparently too much.Now I have there about 800k. Thanks again.
i try this project and i have the dimmer effect, but when the pwn is 0 or LOW, the lamp stay a little brither, how can i resolve this? maybe a pull down resistor connecting gate and source? i try 1k but with out success
Try to disconnect arduino and pull it artificially down to 0. If it still has some current, I would say the transistor is wrong. Be aware that it should be strictly either fully open or fully closed. Only then it has low energy dissipation. If for some reason you semi-open it, you might have burned it yourself.
hi ,you done a great job ... but will it work with inductive loads like AC motor etc. and if not so can you plz suggest any dimmer which can control the speed of AC motors to me ....
Hi, I copied your circuit as a part of a project for school (i hope you dont mind) and its working very well, but I noticed that the relation of the PWM signal and intensity of the light is inverted (0% PWM = full brightness / 100% PWM = zero brightness) can you explain me why does this happen?
This is because there is one inverter in the circuit. If you look at the wiring, you may see that HIGH sihnal on the optocoupler input causes opening the transistor inside the optocoupler which causes shorting the 5k resistor which causes dropping the gate voltage of the IGBT to zero, which causes closing the IGBT. In short, the more HIGH signal (100% PWM) you drive to optocoupler, the more closed is the IGBT and dimmer the light. The more LOW signal (0% PWM) you drive to optocoupler,the more open is the IGBT and brighter the light.
Hello, I am trying to drive a 3 phase 10 HP motor from an arduino using 30 amps IGBTs. I would like to know, do you need to take special precautions to deal with reactive loads such as an electric motor ? Is it possible for the back emf to generate voltage spike that will damage the drive circuit or motor ? If yes, how to dissipate those spikes (without wasting too much power). Also, I have to drive 6 IGBTs, I am considering using adafruit's 16-Channel 12-bit PWM based on the PCA9685 to offload the arduino's processing power. Is a 1khz frequency for the PWM fast enough ?
1kHz is perfectly OK. But I have my doubts about whether it will survive driving the 10HP motor. The transistor is sensitive to a reverse voltage which may appear with inductive load.
Nice little circuit! Which PWM frequency do you use and do you have an idea what the limits are? For example, would you recommend using a lower freq, say around 30kHz or more like 100kHz? I guess at a certain stage the light bulb will act very slow on certain changes.
I think Arduino natively uses about 1kHz for PWM output. At the moment, I see no meaning of working with frequencies higher than this. The bulb reacts so slow that even 1kHz guarantees no flickering. Correct me if I misunderstood your comment.
Yes. General Purpose IO (GPIO) pins on the ESP-12E NodeMCU allow Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) outputs. Simply put, PWM outputs allow us to set the output pins to be Qn for a certain percentage of time in a given time period which is a condition of this concept.
Brilliant design. I have question for you.I am planning to use this circuit to drive dc-dc power supply which takes 36-76 vdc @ 1.9 amps as an input and output 5vdc @ 10amps.Do you think this is possible ? if so is there any change in hardware or software ? Thanks
Hi, if you are working with DC only, the design would be much easier. No need to have a rectification and also it would be safer. But the KEY aspect is if dc-dc converter will work with PWM.. Check that first. If you want to consult more, give me your e-mail address so that it's easier.
Thank you for your quick reply.I will be using this power supply : www.tdk-lambda.com/products/sps/ps_pm/pah/pdf/pah50_spc.pdf. I might set up fixed voltage on optocoupler led for set output from IGBT transistor.Then I will probably remove arduino from circuit.Am I wrong ?
I don't know if this is a good idea. If you feed the converter with pwm input, it may unpredictably interfere with internal processing frequency of the converter. And then what is the point if you not use arduino? Well, and lastly, the led voltage is irrelevant, it either opens or closes the coupler, it does not "semi open".
Dear Jaroslav, thank you for the great explanation! Can you please tell me the value of the resistor connected to pin 1 on the optocoupler? Also; have you made a pcb for this design? Best regards Asle, Norway
Hello, the value is 500ohm. Regarding the PCB... no, I haven't. But if you decide to, I will be more than happy to see it. Would be nice to have one able to integrate Arduino, ideally in a compact box... Maybe we might put some effort together and push it to new level
Thank you! I am looking into building a 4 channel dimmer/controller with an Arduino Uno. Unfortunately my programming skills are really poor, so progress is slow...
Hai can you please mention the diode and capacitor value range, can i use IRF 840 instead IRG4PC50WPbF (IGBT).Can i use diode as IN4007 and capacitor as 100micro farad/400v.
Hi! Good video. I developed the circuit and I connected to a resistance with a 127V and an electric power 1KW but the problem was that the IGBT and the didodes bridge got very hot. the question is what do you think about the problem? What do you think might be the error? and another question this circuit can use to connect a resistance with 220V and an electric power 2KW. how much current supports this circuit?
Hi, do I understand it correctly, you have 127V on the resistor which dissipates 1kW? That would mean that the current is about 8A, which is enough to make the parts hot. With a such power in game it is normal that you introduce some cooling. If I misunderstood the mentioned voltage/power, let me know. The other reason may be that the IGBT is not fully open.
Jaroslav Hruškovič Hi, thanks for answer to my question. Now the problem is that I need to control one resistance which is connected to 220 VAC with an electrical power of 10 KW that means that a I have to control around 41 A the question is, do you think that I can use that kind of circuit or do you have any or another circuit who can works at high amperage (of course introducing PWM)? You mentioned that probably the IGBT is not fully open in that case what can I do about it? How can I fully the IGBT?
christian lazcano Not opening the IGBT to full may be caused by a low voltage on gate. But this was just an idea, I don't know if this really is the case. Check if your pulses on gate have sharp leading and trailing edge and that they reach nearly maximum allowed gain voltage. In my case, I think I used have 14 volts. Regarding the 10kW power... as far as I know, there are IGBT transistors of for high amps, so as soon as you use such one, it should work. But keep in mind that in normal conditions where everything is working OK, such transistor may need a heavy cooling as it may produce around 40W of heat. Another option would be paralel usage of lower rated IGBT transistors, but check that they are suitable for that. Some of them are, some aren't. However combining many transistors may turn out more expensive than getting one rated high power .
No, I tested it, and it does not work with PWM because it is has very slow reaction time. But if your load is solely resistive such as a heating spiral, you may easily change the concept to much longer switching times, such as 5seconds on, 5 seconds off. Then the solidstate relay is perfectly OK.
Zrejme ano, ja som to testoval na 400W žiarovke, tak som vybral príslušný tranzistor. Ale samozrejme existujú aj tranzistory pre väčší výkon, jasné že by sa to dalo, len viem že cena ma vtedy dosť prekvapila.
No, I would not recommend that. The circuit feeds the load with pretty high DC current. It has a significant DC bias as the negative sine waves are flipped up. When testing the circuit, I forgot about this and burnt a transformer of the 12V halogen lamp. With a small change of the wiring it might be possible but that also has certain drawbacks - there may be an induced voltage from the inductive load which might easily burn the circuit. BTW, what sort of inductive load is it?
Jaroslav Hruškovič It is a bit tricky :) It is a primary side PWM regulation for the resistive load (a heater/resistor) on a secondary side of the transformer (max 50V AC should be there). However as I am doing PWM on the primary winding of the transformer (the efficiency is much better here), I am getting a nasty voltage spike when the load is abruptly disconnected. My knowledge here is very limited and I suspect this has something to do with inductive load. The PWM based on triac is working fine but the load must be disconnected smoothly. I was wondering if the triac design could be replaced with similar design as you described. Some modification would be probably required.
The load is driven with 100HZ DC voltage through the bridge rectifier which is not suitable for every load.Instead this if do some modifications connecting the load in series in the AC line and use IGBT for short circuit between + and - of the bridge rectifier then you have a good ac switch.If find a way to drive the isolated gate-emitter of the IGBT with the PWM signal then you can control any type of load even the cheap brushless fan motors used in the hot days of summer.
Yes, if you find a way how to control the IGBT in a way how you describe, it will do the trick. Regarding the cheap brushless motor, there's much simpler way, use a solid state relay and switch it on and off with 1Hz PWM signal.
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 If use optoisolated gate driver ic and a separated dc voltage without common ground connection to the other circuit.Is somehow complicated but it works.The low frequency PWM haven't tried it yet.
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 If you use a DC offset to raise the zero reference point of the AC waveform you avoid having to use negative voltages on the Arduino?
Hi, I doubt. There's a lot of electronics in the LED lamp, which converts 230V to the low voltage needed for LEDs. Unless I know the wiring inside I would't hope. Mainly because my dimmer has a DC bias which may burn any electronics not suitable for that. However, If you really need to know, send me the LED lamp and I may try :-)
can i use this to vary the voltage input to a 220/2000V ac transformer ,i wanted to control the out put voltage of the transformer by manipulating (varying ) the input transformer voltage from 0 to 220.can you suggest please? thank you in advance and really a very nice video
Tere are some methods. But these do not include PWM. Depends how much you need to control the voltage, maybe a special transformer with divided secundar may do the trick.
Hi! Can I use that type of Dimmer, to control an Infrared Heater power? Can he take a 500 - 800 Watts to control? Does this Dimmer compatible with my preferences? Thanks a lot for video!
Hi! I am currently using it for dimming the 400W lamp with no sign of something wrong. So the 500W dimmer should not be a problem. The 800W might result in higher current and higher heat dissipation in the transistor. However, you can still use a cooler.
Jaroslav Hruškovič and what's about 3000w? (3 infrared heaters 3x1000 watts)I guess the transistor can take care of it with a cooler and a heatsink. Or I'd better take a most powerful transistor?
Андрей Рыжов Yes, either a more powerful transistor or you may use two (or more) in paralel. If I remember correctly, the characteristics allow this because if one gets overheated, it somehow offloads its load to other transistors. I am not able to find it at the moment, but the paralel configuration should be self stabilizing in terms of power balance among the transistors. Please let me know if you have doubts about what I say, I will try to find out tomorrow with fresh head.
Thank You so much for the information! But how can i use two or more transistors in parallel? How can i plug them to arduino board? Can you give me a scheme or smth like this? I will appreciate it so much!
hey thanks for the video. i'm working for my final project, i have to control electric water heating element. can this circuit control the electric water heating element?
Yes it can, just replace the bulb with the electric water heating element. And keep an eye on electrical current ratings, there may be a significantly higher current when the element is yet not heated.
Nice work! This is very good. I was hoping that this transistor somehow did not need rectified voltage, so that it could switch the negative voltage too and so I could use it to dim a fluorescent bulb, but it seems that is not the case. Nevertheless, this is very useful info. Thanks!
Jaroslav Hruškovič Sorry, what I wrote makes it look like I may have tried it, but no, I have not. Based on what I know about fluorescent lamps they *need* the alternating current, so I don't *think* this will work for fluorescent....I'm wondering how fluorescent dimmers work now.
also your dimmer generates humming, but at a different frequency! Although your dimmer uses 500Hz (from the arduino) instead of 50Hz you can still heat it!
Yes, the 500Hz humming is generated but as you say, it is not audible. At all. However, at very low brightness, the 50Hz (100Hz) is hared as the bulb has significant thermal cycles.
Hello sir,,, I need to control the 220V AC Fan using PWM and Arduino...can you please suggest for the components Specification of the required circuit??
somu vijayanagar, 220V AC fan cannot be controlled this way unless the motor can withstand the rectified A.C. current. Meaning it also has to be able to withstand the DC bias which occurs when rectified. Check this first and if it can, then the circuit can be used without changes.
I doubt that would work. There is an unpredictable electronics inside. Try the commercial dimmer to see if it works. If so, chances are this circuit will do the trick too.
HI, good video, i have a question, what diode model uses for the diode bridge? what model is the diode next to the diode bridge? thanks for the video :)
Daniel Tamayo Hi, for the bridge I used the ready-made diode bridge KBPC1006W, 600V/10A, see www.gmelectronic.com/bridge-rectifier-b250c10000dr-p227-051 But you may practicaly any that withstands 400V and the current you desire. The diode next to the bridge is also just any that withstands 400V, the current, just to be sure may be around 1A.
Very interesting. I was just wodndering if the lamps do not have a problem with the higher voltage. after all, there will be some 310 Volts over the lamps who are in fact made for 220 Volts
Hi, no, that's definitely not a problem. The 220V rating means effective voltage of sine shaped cycle. In fact, any 220V sine cycle reaches the 310V in the peaks, but that's something that lamps are suited for.
I tried making this but the voltage across the bulbs come to less than 1 volts. The voltage across the 5K resistor is 15V I am using irg4pf50wd i am using 200W bulb. what is the resistor value you used between arduino and Optocoupler..??
Jaroslav Hruškovič It works like a champ thanx a lot Problem was with the Resistor attached from arduino to Opto... I used 220Ohms instead of 1k. And now Because of you I have a full PID controlled ambient Light COntroller
Sorry , I would like to utilize PID control, because my Idea is control the luminosity... so do you think is possible implement this PID control with your circuit?
Ramses da silva louzada Well, basicaly yes. However, in some cases you have variable voltage at the output of thr PID regulator. You have to translate this into frequency and an applicable duty cycle. So it is not just a matter of connecting the PID to the transistor gate, but you have to use some logic (i.e. Arduino) to read the PID signal and send an appropriate signal to the dimmer. In a very special case if your PID would have a PWM output, you might consider connecting it correctly. If you need a help with your design, give me your e-mail contact and we may discuss it separate from this forum.
Providing that this circuit will not handle capacity or inductive load and only works with simple ohmic load, the PF is about 100% I suppose. Regarding THD... no idea. Possibly quite a variable factor depending on actual pulse width.
Mmmm... yes, it looks pretty much the same. The irg4pc50u has a different gate voltage to open, but that is irrelevant for this wiring as you only want the transistor to either full open or full close.
Андрей Рыжов I got through some 100k resistors and capacitors ! check your bridge rectifier - mine was dodgy and taking out the capacitor - causes more current to flow through the 100k than it could take - smoke ahoy.
I know this is an old video but I want to thank you. I am new to electronics and while I have built quite a few projects, it is often difficult for me to look at a schematic and understand what is happening. The terminology also can be confusing. I read an Instructable which gave a schematic and explained how to build one of these, but I was still confused. Your video slowly worked us through what is happening and why you added the components. Thanks!
Thankyou for showing the progression of the design and for talking!
Fantastic explanation, the simplicity is beautiful, I would have never thought just to rectify the output and negate the need for zero crossing detection and the use of costly interrupts. also the fact that you can dim to full zero.
Nice work and Thank you for sharing.
Je vous remercie pour ce montage, simple et parfaitement actif.
J'ai realisé une carte de 60x35mm sur 20mm de haut.
Pour l'integration maximum, l' IGBT a etait monté en aerien horizontale au dessus d'autres composant ainsi que le condensateur de 100uf,car aucune chauffe des composants n'a etait détecté.
Google Translate:
Thank you for this assembly, simple and fully active.
I realized a 60x35mm board 20mm high.
For maximum integration, the IGBT was mounted in a horizontal aerial above other component and the 100uF capacitor as no heating component was not detected.
You are awesome. I have been trying so hard to figure out how to do this, without using a thyristor, or a zero crossing detector.
Thank you for the knowledge. We have already used the circuit and it works very good!!
Hi - Fantastic video. I made the circuit and it works apart from the fact the lamp flickers - it did - until I put the circuit onto stripboard - must have been a dodgy breadboard. Thanks for getting back and trying to help - circuit is flicker free and working a treat ! thanks again
Jabber Gabber Errr... I don't know. The flicker-free operation has always been a buty of this circuit. When does it flicker? Does it flicker just on the low brightness? Or all the scale?
Just an additional question - where are you located? Do you have 230V/50Hz?
+Jaroslav Hruškovič
You say that it flickers at values analogWrite(11,50) - 50 and above it starts to calm down. As the transistor makes a negation, do I understand it correctly that the flicker occurs at full brightness, then continues when you start dimming and then it works ok for the whole range of brightness from dimmed to full dark? If this is the case, it may be related to the fact that capacitor discharges too fast and looses the voltage within one pwm cycle. Can you give me the values of the capacitor and two resistors that are discharging it? Also please specify the one which is short circuited by the transistor.
Jaroslav Hruškovič
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Sorted - see edited comment - many thanks
Thank you for this design, it will be very usefull!
Thank you, I built it, it is great! How would look a concept for 2+ lights?
2+ lights would probably need a 2+ separate circuits, one for each light. The only shared resource might be the arduino which may control as many lamps as many PWM outputs it has.
Detailed explanation ... I am planning to make the same for a ceiling fan. Can I use this exact setup ?
No, I doubt that would work. The fan motor is an inductive load
krasne jednoduche a funkcne, dakujem, presne toto som potreboval :)
great video sir,will this work for a ceiling fan?
Thank you for the explanation and its ease
Hi. nice tutorial. Please, how can I find the pin diagram of the IGBT? Data sheet doesn't provide the pin arrangement
Hello, do you have a list of the components? (serial number)
Amazingly well explained, thank you very much! I'm looking for an efficient way to dim a commercial LED light bulb (e.g., Philips 10 W), do you think this kind of modern light bulb can be dimmable varying its input voltage? I'm planning to buy a VARIAC to see if it really works... THUMBS UP!
I doubt that would work. There is an unpredictable electronics inside. Try the commercial dimmer to see if it works. If so, chances are this circuit will do the trick too.
Excellent Explanation and Video - thanks for sharing !
you are very talented on explaining things - cant wait to see your next video :)
kind regards Mike
I like you project very much and I'm very interested in it so my question to you is do you have an updated version of your circuit ?
Hi, I currently upgraded the circuit for the 400W lamp. The wiring however, stays the same. I meanwhile tried another wiring but that I am not going to publish because it has serious disadvantages. In my case I burnt the transistor when the dutycycle reached 100% as there was a voltage dropping on the gate so low that the transistor was semi-open and thus had a enormous power dissipating. Currently, I am thinking of using two transistors wired complementary so that each handles one half of the sinewave.
If connecting the resistor 10 Ko hm accross the emitter and collector of the IGBT then working well... Thank you boss
Hi! Very nice work, a question...this circuit works with 110VAC? an other what is the value for resistor in the arduino pin, thaks
Great project Mr. jaros. any quetion about your project, Can this project control motor ac 1 fasa by pwm arduino ?
Hello! I experimented with a circuit very similar and it worked very well! But I have a question why it works this way and not with SSR? Because I experimented with an SSR and what I observed was not uniform illumination. As erratic
Thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial. Congratulations, really good.
hello ! First i want to thank you for the video .
i just want to know what is the reference of the diode that you used for the bridge and also the other diode, then the value of the resistence related to arduino.
i looking forward to have your answer soon, thank you.
It has been quite a long time, now I don't remember the exact type. But just use any that withstands 400V reverse voltage and a current adequate to your load.
Thank you for this perfect explanation. I wonder whether this can work for long term or not?
Yes, I constructed it about the time I published the video and it still works. I made a fade-in lamp so that it wakes me up every morning
Hi!!! Jaroslav Hruškovič excellent explanation!!!! My question is: Can i put the bulb in one specific illumination for the time that i want. My question comes because in the video you have a infinity loop an the bulb is doing the loop and never stop in specific time. Thanks!!!
Hi Jaroslav, thanks for the video.
I'm not sure if i am right, but if we try to drive a CFL or an LED Lamp, could the DC filter capacitor integral to the lamp act as a short due to the high switching frequency?
Hi Jaroslav. What is the additional diode used for? It seems to be unnecessary, because the current is already rectified... Am I missing something?
Yes, the current is rectified but that doesn't mean that it is DC. It still oscillates so you need another diode to keep the capacitor charged all the time.
Is there a way to get rid of the diode bridge and still output AC ? Maybe with two mosfets ?
What is the maximum reverse voltage that mosfet or igbt can endure ?
perfect, just what i searched for. i hope you'll figure out ways of making it more safe, as i would love to use this concept for a stage lighting project! thanks!
Thank ou very much , Im going to try this but need about 16A to manage , and Im going to combine it with Current measuring device to make it PID regulated with feedback.
hello, i need to control a submersible pump of 110V by an arduino, this circuit could help me? and i dont know what is the value of the resistence that conects the arduino with the optocoupler, thank you, if you could help me i will thank you so much
could you give the list and characteristics of components of circuit?
I need to dim an LED tube with the input downsteped input of 120v 50hz... cant this be done flicker free?
From what you've described it may work flicker free. But keep in mind that the tube may have it's electronics built in, so it may respond unpredictably.
Hi Jaroslav, great work!!!
I would like to control a blender's motor of 400W. With 127v instead of 220v.
I already made the proper changes of resistor and capacitor. I'm using a irgp4063d and a 4n25.
And I add a current sensor to control the AC motor through its current (for scholar purposes).
I would like to use the IGBT for that, do you think it's possible?
Thank you very much.
Hi, beware of what type of motor you have in the blender. If you use a similar circuit as I did, the output has a high DC bias, so make some research if your motor works at those conditions. Otherwise, the IGBT itself is ok, even better that you use 127V instead of 220V, that may be easier to find a proper IGBT.
Hello! Nice project !I wanted to adapt the circuit for an electric shower of 5500 w. what values of components I use this case to the circuit? A triac model BTA41-600 can replace the transistor in this case?
Hi, no, you cannot replace transistor with triac. It would just not work unless you change the code accordingly. And then it may involve a zero crossing detection an all those inconveniencies.
Hi Jaroslav, Thank you for the nice tutorial , what if we replaced the opto-coupler and bridge rectifier with a solid state relay do we still need IGBT transistor ?
Mohamed Saied Solid state relay is slow. This does not work, I tried.
Thank you :)
Really nice, I was wondering would it be smart to use it on 80W for controlling voltage on AC mono phase motor?
I replicated this circuit and found the hum noise at low brightness (high PWM) to be very audible and a little disturbing. It seemed I could even get it resonating with the bulb in some way and amplifying the noise substantially. Would a capacitor in parallel with the bulb help reduce this hum due to charge/discharge smoothing of the gated supply? Also would lowering the PWM frequency help since the thermal cycling rate would be much lowered?
Hi, lowering the frequency would not help. I think just opposite, on very low frequencies, the hum may be even more accented. I also think that there may be a lamp which has its own mechanical resonance of the wire by coincidence equal to the arduino's PWM frequency. Then changing the frequency to higher or lower may help. The capacitor might help too.
Im surprised with this since tou used AC bulb but in your diagram you use a diode that rectifies AC to DC therefore your AC Light bulb is now using DC? Thanks.
The bulb isn't AC or DC. It just works with both types of current. In this aspect, the bulb is very easy going, unlike a motor or transformer or other electronics.
which diode to use.....can i use 1n4007 for my load(which take less than 500mA)?
Hi, sure you can. They manage up to 1A.
@@danielghisleni bro that's 6 months ago question🤣. Well thank you for your reply
@@prateekbhardwaj6720 Sorry, haven't seen that
Im trying to find a solution to drive an ac motor with and arduino. Namely a O gauge train set that uses ac on the center rail. variable voltage from 0 to about 15 volts. unsure of current. any suggestions?
layman question: can we use MOSFET instead of the IGBT?
Do you think the approach of this circuit could be used to control the electric motor of a model train where the top voltage is 20 VAC but the amperage can be up to 5 amps.
I doubt. The output has a significant DC bias which may burn the motor. But I am looking for a volunteer to test it, so please report the result if you decide to test.
very good job sir thankyou i want to know how to control and regulate voltage via some feedback
by the way, if an optocoupler such as a 4N25 is used, is an IGBT needed? i was going to use an IRF P460 mosfet with a 4N25...
Err.. I might have missed the point. An optocoupler such as a 4N25 is used just for case, to save the low voltage electronics if something goes wrong in the high voltage circuit. Theoreticaly it does't need to be there. IRF P460 will work too, but the case with optocoupler stays the same.
Apologies, it was I that missed the point. ... Thank you for your support
thank you for this tutorial,very informative
hey, nice tutorial. Can I use this circuit with 127 V, the same components, but 127 AC V??
I need it for a PID temperature control
Yes igbt transistor is capable to handle dc and ac current. and has very common usage in variable frequency drivers. like Danfoss softstart for control induction motors. it's very cool 😋
great video ... can we use AC 230v celling fan as a load on this circuit ????
Unfortunately not. Only resistive load is supported.
oh thanks can u make a video about controlling AC CELLING FAN using PWM ....
Can i connect the lamp sequentially with this whole device instead of attach it to transistor? Connecting this way can provide the AC to the load instead of pulsing DC.
I apologize, I did not catch the point. Could you rephrase?
can we run a ceiling fan with circuit? If not then what are the modification do we need in this circuit? Sir please answer as soon as possible.
put the load (MOTOR) on the other side and short the load connection with IGBT. This will enable an AC wave travelling from motor while IGBT will drive the power ac is converter to dc.
hey! nice project! i have a question, What kind of capacitor did you use to do your project? it's a simple electrolytic capacitor?
Yes, it is the simple electrolytic capacitor, I think it is 1000uF, 320V. I had this earlier, so I used it. In reality, it a lot smaller one might be used.
Hi
Jaroslav, I came across your design and it is really nice especially for its simplicity and the space it leaves for Arduino do something meaningful than zero crossing detection. I want to use the circuit for regulation of heating (60W) and to use ESP8266 01 as the controller. Unfortunately, when testing it, I realized that the dimming works fine but the transistor (IRG4PC40WPbF) gets hot after 3-5 minutes and stops dimming. Would you have any idea what could be wrong? The only thing which is different from yours is that I use ESP8266 which has the PWM sampling from 0 to 1023, but I doubt this is the reason. Thank you.
Hmm... I cannot figure out the exact reason but I think that you should check whether the transistor is opening and closing rapidly. It shouldn't happen that it is semi closed or semi open for a long time because in this state it has major energy loss. When closed, I =0A, therefore as P= U*I, the P=0. When fully open, U=approx 0V, therefore as P= U*I, the P=0. in any other state the power is significantly higher and that is what heats up your transistor.
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 Hi Jaroslav, thank you for your quick response. I decreased the resistor at the optocoupler and the problem is gone. I had there 1K and ESP works on 3.3V, so it was apparently too much.Now I have there about 800k. Thanks again.
Lo resolviste?
Can you please mention the ratings of diodes and resistances?
is in the skematic on the video. you don't see?
i try this project and i have the dimmer effect, but when the pwn is 0 or LOW, the lamp stay a little brither, how can i resolve this? maybe a pull down resistor connecting gate and source? i try 1k but with out success
Try to disconnect arduino and pull it artificially down to 0. If it still has some current, I would say the transistor is wrong. Be aware that it should be strictly either fully open or fully closed. Only then it has low energy dissipation. If for some reason you semi-open it, you might have burned it yourself.
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 thanks for the reply, i will try it, and i will go back here to give my results.
hi ,you done a great job ...
but will it work with inductive loads like AC motor etc.
and if not so can you plz suggest any dimmer which can control the speed of AC motors to me ....
anshul gupta No, it only wotks with a bulb or resistive load.
thanku for reply...
can you suggest any thing which help me to control the motor or inductive load ...
What exactly do you want to control? Would a stepper motor be the solution?
i want to contol a simple inductive fan of 60W
may i have your email id for the further discussion .
Hi, I copied your circuit as a part of a project for school (i hope you dont mind) and its working very well, but I noticed that the relation of the PWM signal and intensity of the light is inverted (0% PWM = full brightness / 100% PWM = zero brightness) can you explain me why does this happen?
This is because there is one inverter in the circuit. If you look at the wiring, you may see that HIGH sihnal on the optocoupler input causes opening the transistor inside the optocoupler which causes shorting the 5k resistor which causes dropping the gate voltage of the IGBT to zero, which causes closing the IGBT.
In short, the more HIGH signal (100% PWM) you drive to optocoupler, the more closed is the IGBT and dimmer the light. The more LOW signal (0% PWM) you drive to optocoupler,the more open is the IGBT and brighter the light.
Zdravím, píchnul byste mi s kontrolou tišťáku+výběru součástek a doporučeními na stmívání světel do 16A?
Ano, v miere ako budem vedieť. Poprosím o váš e-mail, príp. nejaký iný kontakt
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 Jééé, to budete hodný. pavel@striz.cz, resp. FB facebook.com/paulshering
Hello, I am trying to drive a 3 phase 10 HP motor from an arduino using 30 amps IGBTs.
I would like to know, do you need to take special precautions to deal with reactive loads such as an electric motor ? Is it possible for the back emf to generate voltage spike that will damage the drive circuit or motor ? If yes, how to dissipate those spikes (without wasting too much power).
Also, I have to drive 6 IGBTs, I am considering using adafruit's 16-Channel 12-bit PWM based on the PCA9685 to offload the arduino's processing power. Is a 1khz frequency for the PWM fast enough ?
1kHz is perfectly OK. But I have my doubts about whether it will survive driving the 10HP motor. The transistor is sensitive to a reverse voltage which may appear with inductive load.
Jaroslav Hruškovič How can you protect the IGBT from back emf ?
A zenner diode might work
Hi, igbt recomiende?
Nice little circuit!
Which PWM frequency do you use and do you have an idea what the limits are?
For example, would you recommend using a lower freq, say around 30kHz or more like 100kHz?
I guess at a certain stage the light bulb will act very slow on certain changes.
I think Arduino natively uses about 1kHz for PWM output. At the moment, I see no meaning of working with frequencies higher than this. The bulb reacts so slow that even 1kHz guarantees no flickering. Correct me if I misunderstood your comment.
Excellent video I have one question can this work on ESP8266 Node MCU??
Yes. General Purpose IO (GPIO) pins on the ESP-12E
NodeMCU allow Pulse Width Modulated (PWM)
outputs. Simply put, PWM outputs allow us to set the
output pins to be Qn for a certain percentage of time in a
given time period which is a condition of this concept.
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 thanks I will try and let you know the results
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 can you please provide me coding ? riz.insure@gmail.com
yes
You did not mention anything about the Zero Cross Detection, this is a pretty important part.
Please note that this wiring is unique exactly because of this - it does not need the zero crossing detection.
Brilliant design. I have question for you.I am planning to use this circuit to drive dc-dc power supply which takes 36-76 vdc @ 1.9 amps as an input and output 5vdc @ 10amps.Do you think this is possible ? if so is there any change in hardware or software ?
Thanks
Hi, if you are working with DC only, the design would be much easier. No need to have a rectification and also it would be safer. But the KEY aspect is if dc-dc converter will work with PWM.. Check that first. If you want to consult more, give me your e-mail address so that it's easier.
Thank you for your quick reply.I will be using this power supply : www.tdk-lambda.com/products/sps/ps_pm/pah/pdf/pah50_spc.pdf. I might set up fixed voltage on optocoupler led for set output from IGBT transistor.Then I will probably remove arduino from circuit.Am I wrong ?
I don't know if this is a good idea. If you feed the converter with pwm input, it may unpredictably interfere with internal processing frequency of the converter.
And then what is the point if you not use arduino? Well, and lastly, the led voltage is irrelevant, it either opens or closes the coupler, it does not "semi open".
Oh I see your point. Thank you for your help.
Very good design!
Dear Jaroslav, thank you for the great explanation! Can you please tell me the value of the resistor connected to pin 1 on the optocoupler? Also; have you made a pcb for this design? Best regards Asle, Norway
Hello, the value is 500ohm. Regarding the PCB... no, I haven't. But if you decide to, I will be more than happy to see it. Would be nice to have one able to integrate Arduino, ideally in a compact box... Maybe we might put some effort together and push it to new level
Thank you! I am looking into building a 4 channel dimmer/controller with an Arduino Uno. Unfortunately my programming skills are really poor, so progress is slow...
Hai can you please mention the diode and capacitor value range, can i use IRF 840 instead IRG4PC50WPbF (IGBT).Can i use diode as IN4007 and capacitor as 100micro farad/400v.
Hi! Good video.
I developed the circuit and I connected to a resistance with a 127V and an electric power 1KW but the problem was that the IGBT and the didodes bridge got very hot.
the question is what do you think about the problem?
What do you think might be the error?
and another question this circuit can use to connect a resistance with 220V and an electric power 2KW.
how much current supports this circuit?
Hi, do I understand it correctly, you have 127V on the resistor which dissipates 1kW? That would mean that the current is about 8A, which is enough to make the parts hot. With a such power in game it is normal that you introduce some cooling.
If I misunderstood the mentioned voltage/power, let me know. The other reason may be that the IGBT is not fully open.
Jaroslav Hruškovič Hi, thanks for answer to my question.
Now the problem is that I need to control one resistance which is connected to 220 VAC with an electrical power of 10 KW that means that a I have to control around 41 A the question is, do you think that I can use that kind of circuit or do you have any or another circuit who can works at high amperage (of course introducing PWM)?
You mentioned that probably the IGBT is not fully open in that case what can I do about it?
How can I fully the IGBT?
christian lazcano Not opening the IGBT to full may be caused by a low voltage on gate. But this was just an idea, I don't know if this really is the case. Check if your pulses on gate have sharp leading and trailing edge and that they reach nearly maximum allowed gain voltage. In my case, I think I used have 14 volts.
Regarding the 10kW power... as far as I know, there are IGBT transistors of for high amps, so as soon as you use such one, it should work. But keep in mind that in normal conditions where everything is working OK, such transistor may need a heavy cooling as it may produce around 40W of heat.
Another option would be paralel usage of lower rated IGBT transistors, but check that they are suitable for that. Some of them are, some aren't. However combining many transistors may turn out more expensive than getting one rated high power .
Jaroslav Hruškovič what do yo think if instead of use your circuit we could use a solid state relay? do you think that it woks?
No, I tested it, and it does not work with PWM because it is has very slow reaction time. But if your load is solely resistive such as a heating spiral, you may easily change the concept to much longer switching times, such as 5seconds on, 5 seconds off. Then the solidstate relay is perfectly OK.
Je možné použít tento obvod i pro regulaci větších výkonů - halogenové žárovky cca 1-2 kW?
Zrejme ano, ja som to testoval na 400W žiarovke, tak som vybral príslušný tranzistor. Ale samozrejme existujú aj tranzistory pre väčší výkon, jasné že by sa to dalo, len viem že cena ma vtedy dosť prekvapila.
What you choose part number of opto and resister between arduino and opto?
you can share list of electronic components for me? thanks you so much！
I wonder if it would be possible to control inductive loads providing I will slowly increase and decrease PWM width when turning on/off the load.
No, I would not recommend that. The circuit feeds the load with pretty high DC current. It has a significant DC bias as the negative sine waves are flipped up. When testing the circuit, I forgot about this and burnt a transformer of the 12V halogen lamp.
With a small change of the wiring it might be possible but that also has certain drawbacks - there may be an induced voltage from the inductive load which might easily burn the circuit.
BTW, what sort of inductive load is it?
Jaroslav Hruškovič It is a bit tricky :) It is a primary side PWM regulation for the resistive load (a heater/resistor) on a secondary side of the transformer (max 50V AC should be there). However as I am doing PWM on the primary winding of the transformer (the efficiency is much better here), I am getting a nasty voltage spike when the load is abruptly disconnected. My knowledge here is very limited and I suspect this has something to do with inductive load. The PWM based on triac is working fine but the load must be disconnected smoothly. I was wondering if the triac design could be replaced with similar design as you described. Some modification would be probably required.
Jaroslav Hruškovič This seems to be a good read: homepages.eee.strath.ac.uk/~bwwilliams/book/chapter%2012.pdf
Yes, seems to be a good reading.
how much power is dissipated on the resistors? how to lower this power and heat?
The load is driven with 100HZ DC voltage through the bridge rectifier which is not suitable for every load.Instead this if do some modifications connecting the load in series in the AC line and use IGBT for short circuit between + and - of the bridge rectifier then you have a good ac switch.If find a way to drive the isolated gate-emitter of the IGBT with the PWM signal then you can control any type of load even the cheap brushless fan motors used in the hot days of summer.
Yes, if you find a way how to control the IGBT in a way how you describe, it will do the trick.
Regarding the cheap brushless motor, there's much simpler way, use a solid state relay and switch it on and off with 1Hz PWM signal.
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 If use optoisolated gate driver ic and a separated dc voltage without common ground connection to the other circuit.Is somehow complicated but it works.The low frequency PWM haven't tried it yet.
with another IGBT transistor in a oposite direction, can we handle the 360º wave with the arduino pwm?
Not quite. This would need also a negative voltage output from Arduino
@@jaroslavhruskovic7153 If you use a DC offset to raise the zero reference point of the AC waveform you avoid having to use negative voltages on the Arduino?
Hi Jaroslav, awesome idea. Would this work for 230v replacement (dimmable) LED lamps as well?
Hi, I doubt. There's a lot of electronics in the LED lamp, which converts 230V to the low voltage needed for LEDs. Unless I know the wiring inside I would't hope. Mainly because my dimmer has a DC bias which may burn any electronics not suitable for that. However, If you really need to know, send me the LED lamp and I may try :-)
IF LED lamp has PFC circuit in it (which almost all of them have), it will not work.
can i use this to vary the voltage input to a 220/2000V ac transformer ,i wanted to control the out put voltage of the transformer by manipulating (varying ) the input transformer voltage from 0 to 220.can you suggest please?
thank you in advance and really a very nice video
No, this will not work, you will burn the transformer. This is because the output has DC offset which will cause strong DC current in transformer.
okk,so do we have any other option to vary the voltage to the transformer ?
Tere are some methods. But these do not include PWM. Depends how much you need to control the voltage, maybe a special transformer with divided secundar may do the trick.
Hi! Can I use that type of Dimmer, to control an Infrared Heater power? Can he take a 500 - 800 Watts to control? Does this Dimmer compatible with my preferences? Thanks a lot for video!
Hi! I am currently using it for dimming the 400W lamp with no sign of something wrong. So the 500W dimmer should not be a problem. The 800W might result in higher current and higher heat dissipation in the transistor. However, you can still use a cooler.
Jaroslav Hruškovič Thanks a lot for info! Now my problem solved! Thanks for your video!
Jaroslav Hruškovič and what's about 3000w? (3 infrared heaters 3x1000 watts)I guess the transistor can take care of it with a cooler and a heatsink. Or I'd better take a most powerful transistor?
Андрей Рыжов Yes, either a more powerful transistor or you may use two (or more) in paralel. If I remember correctly, the characteristics allow this because if one gets overheated, it somehow offloads its load to other transistors. I am not able to find it at the moment, but the paralel configuration should be self stabilizing in terms of power balance among the transistors. Please let me know if you have doubts about what I say, I will try to find out tomorrow with fresh head.
Thank You so much for the information! But how can i use two or more transistors in parallel? How can i plug them to arduino board? Can you give me a scheme or smth like this? I will appreciate it so much!
hey thanks for the video. i'm working for my final project, i have to control electric water heating element. can this circuit control the electric water heating element?
Yes it can, just replace the bulb with the electric water heating element. And keep an eye on electrical current ratings, there may be a significantly higher current when the element is yet not heated.
should i adjust the frequency of my PWM on arduino? or just do analogWrite? my country's electricity is 220v 50Hz. sorry if my english is bad
Just keep it as it is, it will work
thanks jaroslav its amazing
Nice work! This is very good. I was hoping that this transistor somehow did not need rectified voltage, so that it could switch the negative voltage too and so I could use it to dim a fluorescent bulb, but it seems that is not the case. Nevertheless, this is very useful info. Thanks!
So... do you mean that you tried to use it with a fluorescent lamp? I never had a courage to try. How did it behave?
Jaroslav Hruškovič Sorry, what I wrote makes it look like I may have tried it, but no, I have not. Based on what I know about fluorescent lamps they *need* the alternating current, so I don't *think* this will work for fluorescent....I'm wondering how fluorescent dimmers work now.
also your dimmer generates humming, but at a different frequency! Although your dimmer uses 500Hz (from the arduino) instead of 50Hz you can still heat it!
Yes, the 500Hz humming is generated but as you say, it is not audible. At all. However, at very low brightness, the 50Hz (100Hz) is hared as the bulb has significant thermal cycles.
can i have a full schematic diagram for this sir?
Hello sir,,, I need to control the 220V AC Fan using PWM and Arduino...can you please suggest for the components Specification of the required circuit??
somu vijayanagar, 220V AC fan cannot be controlled this way unless the motor can withstand the rectified A.C. current. Meaning it also has to be able to withstand the DC bias which occurs when rectified. Check this first and if it can, then the circuit can be used without changes.
Ok sir,,thank you so much for the reply..!!!!!
And ill check fan whether it can withstand..
Hello Jaroslav! Can I use this circuit for clf and led bulbs?
I doubt that would work. There is an unpredictable electronics inside. Try the commercial dimmer to see if it works. If so, chances are this circuit will do the trick too.
Thank you! I'll try it!
HI, good video, i have a question, what diode model uses for the diode bridge? what model is the diode next to the diode bridge? thanks for the video :)
Daniel Tamayo Hi, for the bridge I used the ready-made diode bridge KBPC1006W, 600V/10A, see www.gmelectronic.com/bridge-rectifier-b250c10000dr-p227-051
But you may practicaly any that withstands 400V and the current you desire. The diode next to the bridge is also just any that withstands 400V, the current, just to be sure may be around 1A.
Thanks for the explanation :)
Very interesting. I was just wodndering if the lamps do not have a problem with the higher voltage. after all, there will be some 310 Volts over the lamps who are in fact made for 220 Volts
Hi, no, that's definitely not a problem. The 220V rating means effective voltage of sine shaped cycle. In fact, any 220V sine cycle reaches the 310V in the peaks, but that's something that lamps are suited for.
ok, thanks
Excelent video!!! thanks a lot!
I tried making this but the voltage across the bulbs come to less than 1 volts.
The voltage across the 5K resistor is 15V
I am using irg4pf50wd
i am using 200W bulb.
what is the resistor value you used between arduino and Optocoupler..??
I am using an electrolytic cap with 100uF/250V
I think I used 100ohm or 330ohm between arduino and Optocoupler. This in fact does not affect the functionality.
Jaroslav Hruškovič It works like a champ thanx a lot
Problem was with the Resistor attached from arduino to Opto... I used 220Ohms instead of 1k.
And now Because of you I have a full PID controlled ambient Light COntroller
Cool
how can we use both inductive and resistive dimmer without zerocross circuit.
Inductive might be problematic in this wiring. Depends whether it is pure inductive or a combination of resistive and (a bit) inductive.
Perfektní video!
thanks for the great video.
Hi, i want use control de luminosity with PID control, you think this is possible with this your circuit? Thanks for the video :)
Hi Ramses, please rephrase your question, I don't quite understand what you mean.
Sorry , I would like to utilize PID control, because my Idea is control the luminosity... so do you think is possible implement this PID control with your circuit?
Ramses da silva louzada Well, basicaly yes. However, in some cases you have variable voltage at the output of thr PID regulator. You have to translate this into frequency and an applicable duty cycle. So it is not just a matter of connecting the PID to the transistor gate, but you have to use some logic (i.e. Arduino) to read the PID signal and send an appropriate signal to the dimmer. In a very special case if your PID would have a PWM output, you might consider connecting it correctly. If you need a help with your design, give me your e-mail contact and we may discuss it separate from this forum.
what is THD and PF achieved by this method ? does this work at 347V ?
Providing that this circuit will not handle capacity or inductive load and only works with simple ohmic load, the PF is about 100% I suppose. Regarding THD... no idea. Possibly quite a variable factor depending on actual pulse width.
can i use irg4pc50u to replace irg4pc50wpbf ???
Mmmm... yes, it looks pretty much the same. The irg4pc50u has a different gate voltage to open, but that is irrelevant for this wiring as you only want the transistor to either full open or full close.
Is it normal, that when i`m plugging this into 220v, 100k resistor burns out with smoke?
Андрей Рыжов I got through some 100k resistors and capacitors ! check your bridge rectifier - mine was dodgy and taking out the capacitor - causes more current to flow through the 100k than it could take - smoke ahoy.
Андрей Рыжов no, it is not mormal. Check for faults.
And is it ok to use 100uF / 250V cap
sir u converted ac volt to dc. why not use ac direct and control brightness. by zerocross detect.
sahabaaz khan quadri , yes, you may also go that way. As you wish.
Can this work with a shaded pole motor to control speed?
Doubt. Anything else than a resistive load is unpredictable. Keep in mind that this circuit has a significant DC so think how your motor can stand it.
Thank you.