I would weld a socket to the end of the bit if you want to use the rebar. Or Get an 18” bit and cut the flat part off. I know it was probably frustrating trying it but I guess we left out the part of possibly fabricating something or making sure to have an 18” bit.
Hi Brock. UK calling. For that size of building, I'd go 5x5.5" with edges ON. You'll get *much* more strength. You could turn the cut side facing in or out for aesthetics if you want, but if you are cladding, who cares, Plus milling off the outside will eat your blades (knots, dirt, oil, nails etc). In your area wind is still a concern, so well braced, thickest section timber is good, Plus, think of all the 'history' you will lose by making it look like Lowe's "finest". Just my thought. I've built one by the way, and you've go a lot of fun ahead. Best of luck.
This is one of those occasions when you need to fab up a custom made tool to help out. Picture a simple straight bit for your impact hammer with a short length of pipe welded onto it so that you'll have sort of a socket/recess on the end of the tool that will help hold the tool in place when you're using the driving rod against the bolts.
Another vote for option 1. Keep the existing outside edges as outside edges. You won’t be able to make them any more weather resistant than the RR already has. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Brock, that riveter will work, you are using the wrong tip, what you should be using is a larger diameter flat rivet tip, they are usually about an inch to 1 and 1/2 inch in diameter. The rivet tip is made for installing flat head rivets. Also, you had it correct when you mentioned drilling the end of the bolt you could do that and then make the end of the rebar to drive into the hole you drilled. On your last point, do not strip off the outer wood, that is what has preserved the wood for so many years.
If you’re going to have open air ends so you’re not trapping the creosote in your area keep the whole thing. Make as big of beams as possible. If you’re planning to close the sides and ends I’d recommend removing the outer edges of the old bridge trusses material as that creosote is bad to breathe for extended periods and if you’re inside it might make it hard to want to stay inside the building.
I would not strip off the black outside. I think it will give the building a unique rustic and rugged look! Not to mention that outer edge is probably still providing some level of protection from the elements
Good morning Brock. I personally would use every bit of those beams that I could. I also would weld a nut or an old socket on the end of the re-bar that you were using as a punch to contain the air hammer. The air hammer also takes a lot of oil to keep it lubricated. I usually will spray a bunch of WD-40 or other lubricant into it before using it. That way it shouldn't jam. Just a couple of my thoughts. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
I wouldn't cut the black creosote off just for asthetics. I'd leave it on and get your desired poles unless you have an abundance of these beams to create more.
As you know, the creosote is to keep it from rotting, which I would let that one plus as you said, you’ll have more lumber when you’re finished the rustic add character to your timber framing that’s my opinion
Hi Brock. When lining up 2 rods, could you slide a sleeve o or pipe over the joint to hold them in line? When you use the hammer tool, could you attach a socket to the tool to hold your driver head on the rod?
Get as much as you can. Next time try welding a pipe on the end of the rod and use a pointed tip on the air hammer. The pipe will keep the hammer centered.
I’m in the “use it all crowd.” Why waste perfectly good wood that’s already treated against rot and insects. Plus you’d have to get rid of the cutoff parts and you really don’t want to burn it soaked in creosote.
I can say from experience. Milling treated wood is not fun. ((Protect your self from it,)) if your really wanting to do it. It will be something you are not not wanting to do again. Or at least thats what most peoples opinions are afterwards. . Also be prepared for unusual blade abuse. And the fact that the treatment is not all the way through the beam. 0.01c
I would weld a socket to the end of the bit if you want to use the rebar. Or Get an 18” bit and cut the flat part off. I know it was probably frustrating trying it but I guess we left out the part of possibly fabricating something or making sure to have an 18” bit.
Hi Brock. UK calling. For that size of building, I'd go 5x5.5" with edges ON. You'll get *much* more strength. You could turn the cut side facing in or out for aesthetics if you want, but if you are cladding, who cares, Plus milling off the outside will eat your blades (knots, dirt, oil, nails etc). In your area wind is still a concern, so well braced, thickest section timber is good, Plus, think of all the 'history' you will lose by making it look like Lowe's "finest". Just my thought. I've built one by the way, and you've go a lot of fun ahead. Best of luck.
They make a tool to drive in ground rods that fit an impact driver from harbor freight
This is one of those occasions when you need to fab up a custom made tool to help out. Picture a simple straight bit for your impact hammer with a short length of pipe welded onto it so that you'll have sort of a socket/recess on the end of the tool that will help hold the tool in place when you're using the driving rod against the bolts.
👍🏻 yep, Agreed.
Or a pipe coupler of sorts.
Gotta think it through and make it work.
I'd have put a impact rated socket over the end of the rod that's close to its diameter and it would keep the tool and the rod in line.
The creosote would protect your posts from rot.
When you mill these beams, wear a very good respirator to protect your health.
Enjoy your videos and you working on the homestead and building
Thank you
When getting used lumber always check with metal dector
Yes its a very real possibility.
Another vote for option 1. Keep the existing outside edges as outside edges. You won’t be able to make them any more weather resistant than the RR already has. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Brock, that riveter will work, you are using the wrong tip, what you should be using is a larger diameter flat rivet tip, they are usually about an inch to 1 and 1/2 inch in diameter. The rivet tip is made for installing flat head rivets. Also, you had it correct when you mentioned drilling the end of the bolt you could do that and then make the end of the rebar to drive into the hole you drilled. On your last point, do not strip off the outer wood, that is what has preserved the wood for so many years.
If you’re going to have open air ends so you’re not trapping the creosote in your area keep the whole thing. Make as big of beams as possible. If you’re planning to close the sides and ends I’d recommend removing the outer edges of the old bridge trusses material as that creosote is bad to breathe for extended periods and if you’re inside it might make it hard to want to stay inside the building.
I would not strip off the black outside. I think it will give the building a unique rustic and rugged look! Not to mention that outer edge is probably still providing some level of protection from the elements
Howdy Brock! Excited to see the sawmill shed come together. Great use for those beams - they should last a long long time. Thanks for sharing 🤠
I wish I had those beams for a bridge across my pond cove.
If you put a short piece loose pipe over the rebar and air hammer, so that it can't jump off as you're hammering.
Good morning Brock. I personally would use every bit of those beams that I could. I also would weld a nut or an old socket on the end of the re-bar that you were using as a punch to contain the air hammer. The air hammer also takes a lot of oil to keep it lubricated. I usually will spray a bunch of WD-40 or other lubricant into it before using it. That way it shouldn't jam. Just a couple of my thoughts. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
I wouldn't cut the black creosote off just for asthetics. I'd leave it on and get your desired poles unless you have an abundance of these beams to create more.
Morning , the black creasote is the best part I think , use it
As you know, the creosote is to keep it from rotting, which I would let that one plus as you said, you’ll have more lumber when you’re finished the rustic add character to your timber framing that’s my opinion
6 beams all the way. Nice work .!!!
Good project, Brock. Those old creosote beams are beasts.
Hi Brock. When lining up 2 rods, could you slide a sleeve o or pipe over the joint to hold them in line?
When you use the hammer tool, could you attach a socket to the tool to hold your driver head on the rod?
Get as much as you can. Next time try welding a pipe on the end of the rod and use a pointed tip on the air hammer. The pipe will keep the hammer centered.
Make 6 each. They will last a bit longer as well. Grankids will get it all over their best shirts and hands, but that's the way it is.
U need a cup on the end of the hammer drill weld a socket on the end if U haven't got one
Don't peal those beams...it will give your building character and uniqueness .That's what makes you so watchable ,you have 'Panache' 😊 !
pc
Because I want to enjoy my environment, I think I would cut off the outside. It may smell better and it would look much better.
Creosote treated timbers that old barely give off any smell. 😉
Good video
Keep it as is they are bug proof
Good morning Brock
I'd leave the black
Gonna go through some saw blades either way. Ugh. But a small investment for what you'll get.
Make six beams - use it all.
what if you tried putting a small deep socket over the rebar to keep the impact from slipping off?
you should have welded a socket onto the rebar to keep the air hammer from coming off
Seems easier to swing a hammer. I don’t have 100 of these to take apart.
I would not cut off the black side. It also becomes a sealer for the wood. pus it would be a little stronger.
Wordle hooking a chain to the bolt and tractor or skidsteer have worked?
Nuts...
If you strip off the black make sure you have a really good mask. One question is how far in is the creosote?
I believe I would make 6x6 out of them.
Take it off, it can cause burns, grand kids could touch it.
I’m in the “use it all crowd.” Why waste perfectly good wood that’s already treated against rot and insects. Plus you’d have to get rid of the cutoff parts and you really don’t want to burn it soaked in creosote.
Utilizing and make six out of it
I can say from experience.
Milling treated wood is not fun.
((Protect your self from it,))
if your really wanting to do it.
It will be something you are not not wanting to do again.
Or at least thats what most peoples opinions are afterwards.
.
Also be prepared for unusual blade abuse. And the fact that the treatment is not all the way through the beam.
0.01c
Also the fact that the sawdust is going to be full of chemicals.
Grind flat the rebar and drill the end of the rebar
You need a collar for your extension rod