Yes, I threw one of them cheap Chinese ones that I bought off eBay in the rubbish bin at the beginning of the year because it was giving me a P0332 code as well, note I'd been having trouble finding a decent scan tool which would scan the LS1,I eventually paid $199 AUD for a Bosch 2220 scan tool from my local auto parts store which has saved me from people thinking that I'm a lunatic because the likes of an Autel scan tool wouldn't read the codes. I replaced the front one that I fitted a decade ago yesterday as it was giving me an intermittent P0327 code but only at 110 km/h on the freeway, the check engine thing would come on for a couple of minutes then turn itself off,I also replaced the knock sensors wiring harness. The car pulls much harder right throughout the rev range with both knock sensors replaced,even though a DTC wasn't being triggered, I dare say that the old sensor wasn't putting out as higher voltage as the new one. So,I paid $154 AUD for a couple of decent sensors so keep away from the 2 for $30 deal,they're junk ! Note that the car goes better than it has ever done in the 11 years that I've had it,I've replaced all of the hydraulic lifters & fitted a new timing chain kit so the engine pulls harder now than it did when I first bought the car in 2008. The difference is that the car had done about 183,000 kilometres back then, now it's approaching 346,000 kilometres !
Got A-LOT of bad parts from Ebay for my Chevy Astro. All to save a few bucks. Cost me more in the end. I'm sticking with my local auto part stores and pay the extra $$$. Less hassle to replace a warrantied part as well.
Dman, my camaro flooded during harvey. It's been more than a year and i still cant get it to run right.. Could it be it got water inside the knock sensor??? Im buyin one tomorrow but wondering if i should order original from rock auto or buy duralast from autozone..
The one on the right came from Global Automotive stay away from them, the Wells brand came from Ebay too, but from A M Automotive, highly recommend A M Automotive.
Wish I had seen this before I purchased fake knock sensors, I’m now opening the inlet manifold for the 3rd time, really disappointed that people would sell these fake parts for an engine that’s not easy to access. Real shame, these aftermarket products need to be banned.
1linuxfreak my codes ain’t permanent, I also have the diagnostic program and elm cable, I’ve ordered genuine parts and hope I never see these codes again, I hear that this is an ls1 common issue. I’ll keep you posted 👍
1linuxfreak replaces the knock sensors with genuine, have taken her for a good hard drive and seems to all good, normally if I had the revs above 2000 the sensor would fail and engine light would come on. Problem solved 👍
Thank you so much! I would have bought the bad one from Ebay but you have saved my family money and for that I say GOD BLESS YOU SIR. AMEN
GM part number 12589867 knock sensor I don’t know the wells ones but I hope this helps a lot of people with the same issue.
Yes, I threw one of them cheap Chinese ones that I bought off eBay in the rubbish bin at the beginning of the year because it was giving me a P0332 code as well, note I'd been having trouble finding a decent scan tool which would scan the LS1,I eventually paid $199 AUD for a Bosch 2220 scan tool from my local auto parts store which has saved me from people thinking that I'm a lunatic because the likes of an Autel scan tool wouldn't read the codes.
I replaced the front one that I fitted a decade ago yesterday as it was giving me an intermittent P0327 code but only at 110 km/h on the freeway, the check engine thing would come on for a couple of minutes then turn itself off,I also replaced the knock sensors wiring harness.
The car pulls much harder right throughout the rev range with both knock sensors replaced,even though a DTC wasn't being triggered, I dare say that the old sensor wasn't putting out as higher voltage as the new one.
So,I paid $154 AUD for a couple of decent sensors so keep away from the 2 for $30 deal,they're junk !
Note that the car goes better than it has ever done in the 11 years that I've had it,I've replaced all of the hydraulic lifters & fitted a new timing chain kit so the engine pulls harder now than it did when I first bought the car in 2008.
The difference is that the car had done about 183,000 kilometres back then, now it's approaching 346,000 kilometres !
Got A-LOT of bad parts from Ebay for my Chevy Astro. All to save a few bucks. Cost me more in the end. I'm sticking with my local auto part stores and pay the extra $$$. Less hassle to replace a warrantied part as well.
Dman, my camaro flooded during harvey. It's been more than a year and i still cant get it to run right..
Could it be it got water inside the knock sensor???
Im buyin one tomorrow but wondering if i should order original from rock auto or buy duralast from autozone..
What I've learned, buy OEM at the best price you can find one.
what's there name ,need to contact eBay tell them thanks for posting
i got the one from pep boys on ebay coming....it's supposed to be a BWD Knock Sensor S8011....i hope it is....thanks for the insight
The one on the right came from Global Automotive stay away from them, the Wells brand came from Ebay too, but from A M Automotive, highly recommend A M Automotive.
I replaced the nock sensors and now the coling fans came on wen the truck is off and drain my battery
Odd! Fans are on a different circuit than the KS. Hope you didn't use the cheap eBay type.
Wish I had seen this before I purchased fake knock sensors, I’m now opening the inlet manifold for the 3rd time, really disappointed that people would sell these fake parts for an engine that’s not easy to access. Real shame, these aftermarket products need to be banned.
Jimmy I agree, I too had to do it three times, not fun.
I still get the P code from time to time. I have EFILive so I just clear the code.
1linuxfreak my codes ain’t permanent, I also have the diagnostic program and elm cable, I’ve ordered genuine parts and hope I never see these codes again, I hear that this is an ls1 common issue. I’ll keep you posted 👍
1linuxfreak replaces the knock sensors with genuine, have taken her for a good hard drive and seems to all good, normally if I had the revs above 2000 the sensor would fail and engine light would come on. Problem solved 👍
ALWAYS USE OEM PARTS
You mean the ones that constantly fail? Nope, they had their chance, I stay with aftermarket.
eBay sucks
por sound