Thank you @FixTronics for this wonderful troubleshooting video. I was about to throw away a 'good' HP EliteDesk 800 SFF PC due to a dead power supply. It turns out it was just a shorted Schottky diode (SB5150) on the secondary. The PC is again working and has resumed its function in my home lab running Proxmox. Cheers!
I would like to thank you from my depth of heart ,i am confirming that i have learn many logics in mother board repairing either it is on power level or no display logic level and i am satisfied in my life thank you my teacher love from india
@@أبوالجراحياسر in india it is depend on model and if you go for basics fluke without overload protection it cost 55dollars and I know one good multimeter it's name is metravi metersafe 18 with 1200 volts overloaded protection in all ranges including hertz and ampere Google it it's very good one inside pptc fuse of 1200 volts overload
OK come on, it already cries about low BIOS battery and you did not change it while open? 😄 That aside, I found that actually powering such units fully up (=giving start signal) when in series with a current limiter is not a good idea, especially not on a active PFC device and/or under load (I assume this has passive PFC as you'd see your lightbulb go crazy on active PFC). This should really be done only to check the primary side and bypassed once that seems to work. There's nothing you gain from current limiting during full power-up anyways, as a failure after power-up jumping to the primary side is unlikely. This is because if the device reacts to a power-up command, short protection on secondary will also work. That being said, checking the secondary for shorts before doing anything else will not hurt.
What is inside is not necessarily always all written on the outside. Like in inside there are around 5 volts between green and black standby wires but on outside label no mention is there about this?
Thank you @FixTronics for this wonderful troubleshooting video. I was about to throw away a 'good' HP EliteDesk 800 SFF PC due to a dead power supply. It turns out it was just a shorted Schottky diode (SB5150) on the secondary. The PC is again working and has resumed its function in my home lab running Proxmox. Cheers!
You welcome brother
I would like to thank you from my depth of heart ,i am confirming that i have learn many logics in mother board repairing either it is on power level or no display logic level and i am satisfied in my life thank you my teacher love from india
May i ask you about multimeter flauk how is it who much cost
I wanna buy maybe unti 61b+
But i really need a beep in diode mode
@@أبوالجراحياسر in india it is depend on model and if you go for basics fluke without overload protection it cost 55dollars and I know one good multimeter it's name is metravi metersafe 18 with 1200 volts overloaded protection in all ranges including hertz and ampere Google it it's very good one inside pptc fuse of 1200 volts overload
It's little expensive in india in rupees it cost 17000 inr to 18000 inr
And if you go for fluke high-end multimeter it is cost round about 250 dollars to 450 dollars
You welcome brother
Mashallah. New subscriber here, but learnt a lot already. Thanks
Thanks brother
Dear sir. thank you for your useful video. could you put a video about testing on PFC section?
OK come on, it already cries about low BIOS battery and you did not change it while open? 😄 That aside, I found that actually powering such units fully up (=giving start signal) when in series with a current limiter is not a good idea, especially not on a active PFC device and/or under load (I assume this has passive PFC as you'd see your lightbulb go crazy on active PFC). This should really be done only to check the primary side and bypassed once that seems to work. There's nothing you gain from current limiting during full power-up anyways, as a failure after power-up jumping to the primary side is unlikely. This is because if the device reacts to a power-up command, short protection on secondary will also work. That being said, checking the secondary for shorts before doing anything else will not hurt.
Why standby purple wire gives 11.6 volts instead of standard 5 volts? How do you clarify this anomaly?
ua-cam.com/video/1k0SLqT8T18/v-deo.html
What is inside is not necessarily always all written on the outside. Like in inside there are around 5 volts between green and black standby wires but on outside label no mention is there about this?
I want to more laptop repair vedios
Sir pls if possible do a learnify video on stand by circuit of apple laptops plus trigger requirements of smc in apple laptops