2.15 these days - just seems to be the size I found that works best in the most conditions (I don't keep a huge collection of tires (tyres) around). But I know in the mid 2000's I had experimented. The largest tire (tyre) I've run is a 2.4 width - it just (barely) fits the rear frame. Was very prone to packing in the mud between the tire (tyre) & frame however - it fits but not suitable for my bike. The smallest I've run is 1.9. And I have tried a few combinations of mixed sizes. Just find the same size gives me the most consistent and predicable grip front and rear for cornering. I found that for me and my bike running a tread patterned specifically for front and rear use to be the most beneficial though.
MX isn't the only place where narrower front tyres are used. Road cycling Time Trials have seen riders experiment with that set up, having a 22/23mm on the front for maximum aerodynamic gains whilst having a 24/25mm on the rear for comfort and traction under power. Continental made a front/rear specific tyre combo (GP Force/Attack) for that exact setup. As road and TT bikes have finally adopted disc brake technology and wider rims, it's mostly redundant, especially because weight distribution is quite forward.
I have an aggressive mullet Hardtail and for bike parks i use a 2.4 on the front and a 2.8 on the rear. That's so i get a useful bit of shock absorbion on the back so u can bounce over rocks and such faster, Works for me.
On my humble 26 inch hardtail, I'm riding a 2.10 Ritchey Comp Z-Max Tire on front and a 1.9 IRC Dragon Scale on the back wheel. I had it for summer and transitioned to winter with them, I was a little afraid that it would lack traction, but until now it's been completely usable for cross-country and some more rougher terrains. I usually do a 7km climb on road to reach the trails, so it also helps a lot on that part of the ride.
But if your bike is for trails you probably want it to be equipped for trails and not for commuting between trails if it is not the purpose of the bike...
@@TheFuel89 If I want sometimes ride my trail bike in the city, should I put slicker tires on it following your logic? I feel completely fine moving a bit slower a bit longer and I don't necessarily need to take it by car for a couple km, at the end on a trail I will be more confident I'm not a bike-park type of rider
Naaa nothing to do with how wide they are, just minimise the contact patch with higher pressure, or my experience is wider tires, with low xc’ish thred, gives a lot of grip, and rolls fast on smooth surfaces 🤷♂️🙌
Got my first mountain bike in 1978. Rode the same width f/r back then, but started runnin' mixed tire widths around the time we joined the Olympic Games... 'round '96. Presently run a 2.8" up front and 2.4" rear. Works in pretty much all terrain and conditions. COMFY!! 😍😍 Don't own a car, so I get around town on it too. Some of the crappier streets here in Denver practically REQUIRE full suspension and fatter tires, especially in winter.
26 psi in front with 2.6 and 23 psi in rear with 2.4? I don’t understand. Less weight in the front and wider tire in the front should mean lower pressure for the same level of tire deformation. I’m 215 lbs and run 20 psi in front with 2.5 and 24 psi in rear with 2.4 tire.
Excellent vid. As a newly minted (two months) mountain bike rider at the tender age of 67 my opinion really won't hold much water. That being said, my new to me/used Atroz 3 needed tires when I purchased it. Some research lead me to going with Schwalbe Tough Tom 27.5x2.35 @ 29 psi front and Schwalbe Rapid Rob 27.5x2.25 @ 32 PSI rear with tubes. Why? Because that's what the manufacturer suggests. Haven't done any serious trails or any downhill yet but it seems to work well on the sissy trails that I ride. I am considering airing down a little both front and rear just to see how it goes. Thanks!
Same philosophy as for a car. Put the new set of tires on the FRONT of the car as it’s easier to control a rear end tire slide than (note proper use of than vs then) a FRONT end tire slide. However AWD/4WD can be a bit different. If you can’t afford a full set of tires the new ones are still better on the FRONT. I’ll guarantee a VAST majority of people don’t know this critical fact.
@@tedoakes9235 Its probably depends, when you mostly going down the front tire will have more weight on it and will be beaten harder than the rear so more pressure means less chance of damage But here the pressure should be at least equal as the front is wider
Im running 26x 2.3 front and rear as keeps the balance the same as would always have a wider tyre nornally on rear and one size smaller width wise on front for helping with turning
What width tyres do you run? Let the chat know in the comments below 👇
2.4 magic Mary & big betty 20psi my weight 84 92 when on bike fully loaded
Just changed from 2.6 to 2.4. Felt like i was riding a tractor before
For my summer bike I ride a 2.4 width. It seems pretty good for my local trails
2.15 these days - just seems to be the size I found that works best in the most conditions (I don't keep a huge collection of tires (tyres) around). But I know in the mid 2000's I had experimented. The largest tire (tyre) I've run is a 2.4 width - it just (barely) fits the rear frame. Was very prone to packing in the mud between the tire (tyre) & frame however - it fits but not suitable for my bike. The smallest I've run is 1.9. And I have tried a few combinations of mixed sizes. Just find the same size gives me the most consistent and predicable grip front and rear for cornering. I found that for me and my bike running a tread patterned specifically for front and rear use to be the most beneficial though.
4.8 Surly Lou on the rear, 4.8 Surly Bud at the front.. and yes.. I drive a tractor..
Good to see Blake back out on the trails!
MX isn't the only place where narrower front tyres are used. Road cycling Time Trials have seen riders experiment with that set up, having a 22/23mm on the front for maximum aerodynamic gains whilst having a 24/25mm on the rear for comfort and traction under power. Continental made a front/rear specific tyre combo (GP Force/Attack) for that exact setup. As road and TT bikes have finally adopted disc brake technology and wider rims, it's mostly redundant, especially because weight distribution is quite forward.
I run same width front and rear, but have a more aggressive tread pattern and softer compound on the front. Also front pressure is lower.
Beautiful Blake is back!! Can't wait to see you riding again mate! Cheers!
I have an aggressive mullet Hardtail and for bike parks i use a 2.4 on the front and a 2.8 on the rear. That's so i get a useful bit of shock absorbion on the back so u can bounce over rocks and such faster, Works for me.
On my humble 26 inch hardtail, I'm riding a 2.10 Ritchey Comp Z-Max Tire on front and a 1.9 IRC Dragon Scale on the back wheel. I had it for summer and transitioned to winter with them, I was a little afraid that it would lack traction, but until now it's been completely usable for cross-country and some more rougher terrains.
I usually do a 7km climb on road to reach the trails, so it also helps a lot on that part of the ride.
I’m a fan of 2.35 width tires. And my tire pressure is 23 psi front and 35 psi back. The climate I ride in is hot and dry with lots of loose rock.
Narrower tyres are also compromise when you commute to the trails on the bike and want save energy
But if your bike is for trails you probably want it to be equipped for trails and not for commuting between trails if it is not the purpose of the bike...
@@wanderer2246 Yes yes, taking your bike to trails by car is the one and only way.
@@TheFuel89 If I want sometimes ride my trail bike in the city, should I put slicker tires on it following your logic?
I feel completely fine moving a bit slower a bit longer and I don't necessarily need to take it by car for a couple km, at the end on a trail I will be more confident
I'm not a bike-park type of rider
@ Yeah, but if one regularly has to pedal to trails then somewhat narrower tire would probably be a good compromise. Depends on distance probably.
Naaa nothing to do with how wide they are, just minimise the contact patch with higher pressure, or my experience is wider tires, with low xc’ish thred, gives a lot of grip, and rolls fast on smooth surfaces 🤷♂️🙌
Thanks Blake for the informative vid looking forward to next vid
Got my first mountain bike in 1978. Rode the same width f/r back then, but started runnin' mixed tire widths around the time we joined the Olympic Games... 'round '96. Presently run a 2.8" up front and 2.4" rear. Works in pretty much all terrain and conditions. COMFY!! 😍😍
Don't own a car, so I get around town on it too. Some of the crappier streets here in Denver practically REQUIRE full suspension and fatter tires, especially in winter.
26 psi in front with 2.6 and 23 psi in rear with 2.4? I don’t understand. Less weight in the front and wider tire in the front should mean lower pressure for the same level of tire deformation. I’m 215 lbs and run 20 psi in front with 2.5 and 24 psi in rear with 2.4 tire.
@@Engineers_Shred_Too must be the opposite, probably just a mistake.
@@espentafaanta that’s what I youth, but then he says it again later in the video, pointing at the front
I found that round tires are definitely the best!
I think it's always best to run quality tyres for optimum front and rear tyre blaking.
Excellent vid. As a newly minted (two months) mountain bike rider at the tender age of 67 my opinion really won't hold much water. That being said, my new to me/used Atroz 3 needed tires when I purchased it. Some research lead me to going with Schwalbe Tough Tom 27.5x2.35 @ 29 psi front and Schwalbe Rapid Rob 27.5x2.25 @ 32 PSI rear with tubes. Why? Because that's what the manufacturer suggests. Haven't done any serious trails or any downhill yet but it seems to work well on the sissy trails that I ride. I am considering airing down a little both front and rear just to see how it goes. Thanks!
goddam that orbea is nice looking bike with that coloring
2.5 front/2.4 rear Maxxis tires on a Levo SL for use in the high desert and Sierra Nevada Mountains of the Western US...loose and rocky.
I opt for 2.8 front and rear maximum grip personally on 27.5 wheel I’m beefy and need it 😂
I agree. My Scott spark got 2.8 front and 2.4 rear. West Coast of Norway, ofte wet, muddy and a lot up and down. I am close to 100 kg.
@ Same in Scotland lots of mud and wet roots to steer over.
Why do the downhill folks run narrow tyres?
🤔bought a 2.35 mexcal and barzo but have not fitted them yet, previous were 2.4 and 2.5s maxis dhr/dhf😎the ride quality will be interesting.
Same philosophy as for a car.
Put the new set of tires on the FRONT of the car as it’s easier to control a rear end tire slide than (note proper use of than vs then) a FRONT end tire slide. However AWD/4WD can be a bit different. If you can’t afford a full set of tires the new ones are still better on the FRONT.
I’ll guarantee a VAST majority of people don’t know this critical fact.
26 psi front 2.6? Is it more than recommended? I have the wtb trail-boss 2.6 front and it says not more than 20 psi
Normally front tyre has lower pressure than the rear especially if wider. Why done in reverse here?
@@tedoakes9235 Its probably depends, when you mostly going down the front tire will have more weight on it and will be beaten harder than the rear so more pressure means less chance of damage
But here the pressure should be at least equal as the front is wider
@@tedoakes9235 I thought the same thing and was wondering if it was a typo.....
2.6 rear, 2.4 front for marathon. I said what I said.
2.6 front 17 psi, 2.6 back 15 psi works great for technical trails. I'm not racing. Great smilage, not milage
How's the orbea rise going with 27.5 in the rear?
I always go wider up front.
i only have a $500 bike but im running some THIN tires 1.8
This script sounds like Gmbn Tech. 😊
How can you ride with a go pro in your mouth? 😮😅
How many times can we make the same video?
Normally it is recommended to have more psi in the rear then front.... Why this way?
3.0 и 2.3
ah i think 24 26 mullet wheel hahahaha
Im running 26x 2.3 front and rear as keeps the balance the same as would always have a wider tyre nornally on rear and one size smaller width wise on front for helping with turning