I always hated SLA printing, till I saw how the Prusa SL1's specs had all the solutions to my previous issues from other SLA methods, just like how the Mk3 did with FDM. PRUSA'S ARE LIFE CHANGERS!
@@KieranShort Not to mention: the printing dimensions of the Elegoo Mars, Anycubic Photon (or any other MSLA printers that use the Chitu hardware) are very close to the Prusa's... but then we talk about price... 1400$ Prusa kit or 279$ Elegoo Mars ready to print (resin sold seperately)
@@KieranShort So my experience with SLA was with the Form 2. The biggest issue with what is despite it being probably the most well known SLA printer is the fact it keeps you stuck with there products. Also another thing I hated was the wash and clean standards of Form lab printers. It induced a ton of toxic resin going everywhere, and was very messy. The Prusa SL1 let's you try different materials. It also has the air filtration system which is great, because the form 2 would smell bad of resin during operation. The Form 2 automatically fills the resin bed, but that turned out to cause many issues such as clogging, or not letting the print finish reliably because it filled too much ect. In the end pouring in the resin manually is the best option. Also the Form 2 has to have the entire resin vat be replaced after not much operations because the bottom is plastic. The Prusa SL1 just has a lining to replace. So really I think SLA printing is great if there is a way to safely handle the resin. The Elegoo Mars seems like a good printer. It also seems like it doesn't keep you in the ecosystem. Though I have never used it and can't say much. I think SLA printing is great if the user understands the safety, handle the resin properly, and that's about it. Hope this helps!
I can do that in solidworks, but i really need to learn blender as well... i hope to buy a 3d printer one day...again. I sold because life is rough atm
If the liquid resin is washed off with IPA/etc what remains is UV cured resin but not super hardened. That is, it has polymerised (and therefore become toxically inert) enough to hold shape. In my mind, therefore, it should be fine.
Apparently what is nasty is mostly liquid resin. When printed, washed in IPA and let dry, the parts are "quite" safe to handle. Cf answer on my question just above by David Schwarz.
ANYONE KNOWS ????? @ 1:13, is that "electronic chasis" made from scratch or a part available for sale online? I would like learn how to make one if it's built from scratch
Nice job, i already have MK3S MMU2S and i am colecting money for SL1, still it is expencive for me as student, but compared to other MSLA printers, it is huge jump with lowering the price
Nope, SLA is so much more detailled and finer, but you can come somewhat close to it, expect a lot more of sanding and clean up, and scratchbuild the fine details. it isn't impossible, but the SLA takes a lot of work out of hands and will print so much nicer.
Yes and no... From my experience using an *MMU2S* equipped *i3 MK3S* things like the railings would have to be done using soldered together solid core wires. Stuff like the housing of the Diesel Engine @01:00 could be done though you're most likely not getting great results in areas like the windows of the cockpit. You CAN work around such limitations by splitting prints up and orienting them differently like the top which would have to be printed standing but that too has limitations. Basically, Floors and Walls are of almost no issue to an FDM printer but a Ceiling is. I also have a *Formlabs Form²* ( and soon *Form³* ) SLA 3D Printer and while it's not as hassle-free to work with once the Print is off the Build Platform than how it is with the i3 MK3S I find it less of a pain in the ass to 3D Model for it as you CAN just 3D Print EVERY shape with it and EVERY shape will look PERFECT which is not something I can say about FDM Printers due to their problems with overhangs and steep angles.
I always hated SLA printing, till I saw how the Prusa SL1's specs had all the solutions to my previous issues from other SLA methods, just like how the Mk3 did with FDM. PRUSA'S ARE LIFE CHANGERS!
how do you rate the elegoo mars?
@@KieranShort Not to mention: the printing dimensions of the Elegoo Mars, Anycubic Photon (or any other MSLA printers that use the Chitu hardware) are very close to the Prusa's... but then we talk about price... 1400$ Prusa kit or 279$ Elegoo Mars ready to print (resin sold seperately)
@@KieranShort So my experience with SLA was with the Form 2. The biggest issue with what is despite it being probably the most well known SLA printer is the fact it keeps you stuck with there products. Also another thing I hated was the wash and clean standards of Form lab printers. It induced a ton of toxic resin going everywhere, and was very messy. The Prusa SL1 let's you try different materials. It also has the air filtration system which is great, because the form 2 would smell bad of resin during operation. The Form 2 automatically fills the resin bed, but that turned out to cause many issues such as clogging, or not letting the print finish reliably because it filled too much ect. In the end pouring in the resin manually is the best option. Also the Form 2 has to have the entire resin vat be replaced after not much operations because the bottom is plastic. The Prusa SL1 just has a lining to replace. So really I think SLA printing is great if there is a way to safely handle the resin. The Elegoo Mars seems like a good printer. It also seems like it doesn't keep you in the ecosystem. Though I have never used it and can't say much. I think SLA printing is great if the user understands the safety, handle the resin properly, and that's about it. Hope this helps!
That's pretty cool!
Hornby wants to know your location
The music timing is such that if you skip back 10secs it's as if you havn't skipped anything at all. Perfect sync
I wanted to murder it well before it looped.
Nice paint job!
I do 1/48 scale narrow gauge (On30) and FDM is good for larger models but resin is great for smaller/more detailed parts. The overall result is nice!
Ten Skleník je suprovej!
Hi i hope you make a cooperation with the "Miniaturland" in Hamburg i think they will need a lot of your SL1´s
I can do that in solidworks, but i really need to learn blender as well... i hope to buy a 3d printer one day...again. I sold because life is rough atm
Josef, what's your opinion on 3d pens?
Hello. I'm really interested by prusa SL1. What is scale of your railroad models ? HO or N... I would work in HO scale... Thank you very much !
Is it safe to touch partially cured resin without gloves? 0:44
If the liquid resin is washed off with IPA/etc what remains is UV cured resin but not super hardened. That is, it has polymerised (and therefore become toxically inert) enough to hold shape. In my mind, therefore, it should be fine.
if its wahed and cured then no problem
@@TGWMS It is washed but only partially cured (by SL1).
@@MurphyTJ yes but we leave model totaly dry at CW1 so all liquid resin is out and model itself is hard but not that musch to crack tiny parts.
I'm confused. I thought the parts were unsafe to touch until cured. Can you safely remove the supports before curing the model?
Apparently what is nasty is mostly liquid resin. When printed, washed in IPA and let dry, the parts are "quite" safe to handle. Cf answer on my question just above by David Schwarz.
ANYONE KNOWS ????? @ 1:13, is that "electronic chasis" made from scratch or a part available for sale online? I would like learn how to make one if it's built from scratch
Did you ever found out the answer to that? Because I'd like to know as well! :-)
@@quintesse Me three!
I wish all contact creaters would make video exactly like this! Short! And to the point!
Nice job, i already have MK3S MMU2S and i am colecting money for SL1, still it is expencive for me as student, but compared to other MSLA printers, it is huge jump with lowering the price
Hello, please can someone recommend me a suitable wheels/engine module? Thank you very much
Wee need more!
i love trains
Good Czech train . !! :-D
Is it possible to print in that quallity on a fdm prusa printer ? I mean the trains
Nope, SLA is so much more detailled and finer, but you can come somewhat close to it, expect a lot more of sanding and clean up, and scratchbuild the fine details. it isn't impossible, but the SLA takes a lot of work out of hands and will print so much nicer.
Some of it yes... The delicate railings? No.
Yes and no... From my experience using an *MMU2S* equipped *i3 MK3S* things like the railings would have to be done using soldered together solid core wires.
Stuff like the housing of the Diesel Engine @01:00 could be done though you're most likely not getting great results in areas like the windows of the cockpit.
You CAN work around such limitations by splitting prints up and orienting them differently like the top which would have to be printed standing but that too has limitations.
Basically, Floors and Walls are of almost no issue to an FDM printer but a Ceiling is.
I also have a *Formlabs Form²* ( and soon *Form³* ) SLA 3D Printer and while it's not as hassle-free to work with once the Print is off the Build Platform than how it is with the i3 MK3S I find it less of a pain in the ass to 3D Model for it as you CAN just 3D Print EVERY shape with it and EVERY shape will look PERFECT which is not something I can say about FDM Printers due to their problems with overhangs and steep angles.
Hello from my second Account ! Thank you very much and sorry for my late reply :)
Hi, can you make a tutorial for octoprint and what it set?
Thanks craftik894
Jak je to odolné oproti výliskům, které se používají u výrobců modelů?
Pekný modely vláčku :)
Also no discussion on the trains you made for printing obstacles.
It's the toothpaste finish that puts us railway folk off FDM, though I have a keen eye on laser sintering tech from Prusa!
Paráda Drakene! :-)
Amazing czech train models
Hey Content creator! I think you should give credit to the music you're using ;)
If it wasn't before, it is in the description now.
I just hope to have a 3d printer
I knew from the thumbnail that this is a Slovak or Czech video, and sure, even by Jozef himself :D
That printer models isn't available in Indonesia :"
Do sell these models
TT scale?
H0 scale according to the blog post.
How can I convert model from game to stl file?
If you want them from Fallout, use bea extraktor and nifscope.
I dont know about other games, but nifscope defo works (it extracts the nif files )
Nice
Škoda, že tam nebylo Eso.
waoo 👍👍
I assure u all it only looks so easy...In reality its hell.
The music was a bit on the ear piercing side.
Rozumí mi někdo protože sou to české vlaky
ano
Ano
OK, I think we're going to be turning off the sound for all your videos in future :-(
awww i wanted to see the train derail
butthis was just an ad am salty
Nice prints, god awful music.
Hey Joseph, could you do a give away for 100K subscriber event, please?
Oh man that music is terrible.
Wtf that intro noise!
Just dump the awful music man 😳
MUSIC SUCKS
Oh geez, please get rid of that awful music!
Sick of that shit music !!!! Unsubscribing .
First