@markco30 The compressor is at it's most efficient when at 2K or higher, if you are testing what the system for what it can do you want to give it a chance to perform in it's operating range. Great question BTW.
@infinity3jif It may be more than that, whenever you have a compressor go it has the potential to send metal all throughout the system messing everything up that's why many reman compressors come with a filter that must be installed. My point is that in addition to being able to evacuate the system it may need to be flushed for the new compressor to last.
My 1982 Corolla still uses R12, I haven't converted yet, leak was found and fixed 6 years ago, and the AC still works. The most important thing in this vid: FIX the leak, no telling how much longer your system will last.
@tmz90 I'm not sure really but it may be that there is too much oil in the system or that the compressor stiffens up after it sits but after it warms up it's fine. I would not worry about it unless your AC performance is compromised.
@tmz90 I recommend taking it to a professional as there could be more than one issue that can cause poor cooling and if there is a leak it needs to be repaired or else your just wasting your money trying to put more in as it will just leak out.
@Vivianpham105 No, in fact I doubt you could even factor that into the equation. I think the reason they want it on low is because they have established that as the benchmark reading, if it can perform at it's lowest setting it's reasonable to assume it will also work at higher speeds.
i had a 87 accord with a r12 system. the system was empty so i just put in a couple cans of r134 and that ac worked perfectly for 9 years. i only had to add about half a can a year. i spliced the end of a r12 hose onto a r134 hose. i don't suggest using adapters cause they leak. the secret to my success was the fact that i also used the ac in the winter to defog. never changed o rings or anything. my method was add oil til it got cold then stop right away to avoid over fill.
@polypolyman You might want to take it in to get professionally checked as it's not likely that it's working intermittently as you suggest I think it might be more likely that it's not working at all but sometimes you get to a cold spot and it makes it through the vents. The fact is that I don't know for sure so I would recommend taking it to someone that has the proper equipment to diagnose it.
@lineartechbd1600 When you buy a 'retrofit' kit at the dealer it's just those adapters in a small box and a can of new oil. It would have been better if you could have evacuated the system before you put the 134A in but what you did really isn't all that different than what you would get at the dealer is my point.
@Miamiguy82 At first I was going to suggest replacing your cabin filter but you may have a problem with the doors in the HVAC that control airflow, this could be that they are not getting the signals that they need or some other issue, you'll have to check the service manual for your vehicle to be honest.
@Flysohighx21 Make sure your condenser is free of debris for starters, replace your cabin air filter if you have one and if after all that you still suspect it can do better take it to a professional to have the pressures checked to see if it's functioning as good as it can.
@kidcool1977 I don't recommend doing it that way as you really should be reading the pressures to ensure you have the proper charge as well as vacuuming the system down to check for leaks first before you charge it to prevent moisture from ruing the system.
@manu175 AC problems are always more complicated than most people give credit especially on older cars that used to run R12, I would recommend you take it to a professional to be properly diagnosed. I don't believe that 'filter' has anything to do with it. Good luck.
@americantractors I have lots of experience and the tools to do this kind of work and don't recommend that anyone that doesn't understand the system or has the proper equipment to work on AC as I've seen a lot of problems caused not to mention the environmental issues.
@TheAandrew52 If you know you have a leaking heater core it should be addressed as the air in the cooling system that results from a coolant leak will not allow the fans to work properly. If I get the opportunity to make that video I will but keep in mind in order for that to happen the same vehicle needs to come in with the same issue. Good luck.
@iloveheavymetal1 It sounds like it may be an electrical issue, you might want to take it to a professional to have it properly diagnosed, AC problems can be complicated to solve even for seasoned technicians.
Just watched another video, where they said to put it out in the hot sun, open all the windows and place it in the center vent, on Max. They were also taking temps at the evaporator and condenser, and looking what the difference was between the vent & the evaporator.
For those with possible A/C problems in a VAG vehicle you may have an issue with the slow speed cooling fan circuit. This is a known problem of Volkswagen whereas the position, where the cooling fan should run when A/C is engaged, has blown. This causes the high speed to switch on every 20 secs or so which puts a heavy load on the 40A fuse on top of the battery. Keep in mind that when the high speed blows this fuse you no longer have engine cooling!
@infinity3jif my first vacuum pump was an refrigerator compressor . soldered some fitting on the suction line and it does the trick . It will even remove moisture if you run your car and get every thing hot do this on a hot day and turn your heater on to get the evap hot also
@americantractors if you have a leak detector you can pull the drain tub in to the cabin . dont run the car. leave it like this over night and in the morning (since freon is heavier than air ) check the floor where the tube is and if there is a leak it will accumulate on the floor . try not to disturbe the air when opening the door. If it is a big leak just put the leak detector up the tube
@americantractors yeah what I found out about electronic leak detectors is that they are hit and miss and price has nothing to do with accuracy. when I ran an a/c dept. I bought about 6 to 8 detectors and finally settled on a cheaper one that worked great. even on the smallest of leaks. other products I've had success with is the soap solutions like snoop or soaps that resemble liquid tire removing soaps. excellent on fittings
@polypolyman try jumping out your pressure switch for a second or two . not too long because you might have a high head pressure problem . all ways helps to mention the car make and model. If you have gauges put them on for this test
@jambe1234567 I'm not exactly clear on what your question is. As for humidity it pulls it out of the air in the same way a glass of water gets sweat on it on a warm day. If you have airflow going into the vents instead of out then you probably have a problem with the air mix doors inside of the HVAC or the blower motor is wired up incorrectly.
@EricTheCarGuy I brought the car ('02 wrx wagon, btw) to my uncle for an unrelated problem, but he's also a master A/C technician. Without putting any gauges on, just by what I told him (system still has some pressure, occasionally hits a cold spot), he thought that my low side pressure was probably just a little low (he left his gauges at work, so couldn't say for sure), and that I should throw a can in. I'll do that, and see what comes of it.
@chicks123 Could be caliper slides or the brake pad sticking or a caliper problem. Watch the video I did on Disc Brake replacement for details on how to lube and deal with those parts.
@TheAandrew52 You kind of have to 'smack it' to knock it loose after you get the nut off, sometimes you need a puller but I don't often find that to be the case.
@writerofwriters69 That's true but that would not be an accurate measure of performance, you want to subject the system to the worst conditions possible to measure it's performance not make it easy for it.
ever since i found your youtube page last year i have watched almost all of your videos they are all great. i think it is funny that just about all of your videos have been posted within a few days before or after i go over the subject in my auto class lol
@iloveheavymetal1 It could be that your compressor has failed, this could spell real trouble as with some compressor failures it can ruin the entire system.
The shop I work for doesn't pay shit for ac.. They put an AC performance test on the ticket, which is only about .3 hours, and expect me to do an evac, pull vacuum on the system, and recharge. Is this right? I had a car today that they put a performance test on, and the ac clutch wasn't engaging. so I asked for a evac+recharge, or diagnostic time. And they told me to "just had a little bit of freon until the clutch engages" wtf? I wasn't trained to add freon to an unknown system until the AC clutch engages. Can you comment on this please? I've about had enough of this place.
@Drew99GT I've never seen that in the service manual but your trying to measure the cooling systems' ability to cool the air coming in from the outside, not cool the air inside the passenger compartment as that would not be an accurate measure of performance in my opinion.
I think PAG oil can absorb moisture but evacuating the system with a vaccuum pump should remove the moisture. The compressor in the Grand Am I fixed must be working good because the system is blowing nice and cold and the pressures read properly, if the compressor was shot the readings would be different. Spring lock tool?
I wonder when will Eric show how to take the a/c apart, put it back, do an evacuation and recharge the correct way. I have a leak on my suction hose. the refrigerant already all leaked out along with some of the oil. I wonder how much and the type of pag oil to put back in. I cant wait. It is getting warmer and warmer here down south.
hey Eric i had a mishap recharging my dads 1998 Honda Civic. i used the gauge the r134a came with and it had about 23psi before i charged it and ended at 27psi before i went on a drive. i drove easy for about 2 miles and decided i better get up in rpms to make sure there went any leaks or force stuff out to see if there were. well when i did, i got it to about 5k rpm and heard a pop. the safety valve on the back of the compressor puked refridge everywhere but now it has psi but clutch is on +off
+EricTheCarGuy I have a 1994 Toyota Camry V6LE that sometimes cools extremely well and other times at all we have had a new compressor put in and fresh charge
@Michiganborn1969 It's not deadly but the environmental concerns are real and I wouldn't be surprised if they make it so you have to have a license to use 134 in the same way they did with R12 at some point. You really need the proper equipment and a good working knowledge of AC to be effective all that aside.
Hi. I have an issue with my ac. With the engine and ac off there is 90 psi pressure on both high and low side. When ac running the low side drops down to about 80 psi and the high side goes up to about 95 psi. There is some cold air coming out from dash but it is just about fresh. There is definitely gas in the system as it was working before and it suddenly stopped working. I have had some spare gas in a bottle so I've put it in the system but no change. The engin idle does not change when I turn on the ac. Any ideas how to identify the faulty part? Cheers Peter
My AC system was empty because the motor was taken out to paint the engine bay. I was melting in the 100+ degree weather and got a can of refrigerant at the auto store. I added it to the car in the parking lot and was relieved. Now I'm freaking out wondering how much oil my system has or needs. Is there a way to check? Should I start over and apply vacuum and refill? Even then how much oil is needed? Thanks a million!
@mrdodgeram1999 If you can move more air through the condenser the AC should work more efficiently but whether or not it will cool better will depend on the pressures in the system.
you have to be careful when cleaning the condenser, use a low pressure water and a soft bursh and use a soft force as the fins are very delicate and can bend easy this is from my cars user manual and for those who have a pre 94 car your car may use R-12 which is no longer used and is banned, cars after 94 use R134a
@Bushougoma Thanks for ythe reply. I guess if it came down to it. I could just work on the hardware parts (compressors & hoses) myself & leave the gases to the experts. Guess with the discriptions of some of the deadly gases you mentioned I suppose I better try cutting back if not quitting all together on the Pall Malls lol.
@EricTheCarGuy I think this is only true when you put 134 in a sys that was set up for 12 making it seem like the 12 is a better freon . yes the 134 has higher head pressure but that is compensated buy a larger condenser and hi side lines. the boiling point pressures are basically the same so you can easily get that freon down to the 32 degree point.( proof is that the expansion vlvs works in either one.) If I had a choice I would want r-12 in a 134a set up with an adjustable exp. vlv.
@7477238 Hm, OK, thanks! I have just heard that when the AC-System is over a half year open (hole, ect.) the compressor is 99% dead too because of moisture ect. A new dryer and condenser lies already in my garage, then i only need one of those spring-lock tools... :)
@Flysohighx21 do what etcg says and if that doesn't work check your return line (suction line) it should be sweating ,on a hot day, if not there is a problem
@hoooooops Nah. Replace your receiver/drier or accumulator though depending on the car you have. I just replaced a smashed condenser and accumulator on a Grand Am. Evac and recharge = ice cold :)
@jambe1234567 I would recommend you watch the video I did on AC operation as I go through the explanation of how AC works and why it works the way it does.
@MrDookie2011 Eventually yes but keep in mind my videos are based off of the work that comes into my shop so I have to wait till a car comes in that needs that service and I need the time to video the repair.
So it is normal for the compressor to shut on and off because the first 2 cans I put in the fans and compressor ran continuously but when I added the 3rd can the compressor comes on and off . Also there is an item they sell, you put it on your AC line and it helps the cooling efficiency, I haven't tried it but when I do I'll post my result
Eric I have a problem that is driving me crazy I have a Ford F-150 2015 that is short cycling compressor clutch will engage for 3 mins then it starts and stops which never gets the car cool enough because never stays on my gauges when engage show proper charge I will evacuate system vacuum and recharge by weight specs and it still has same issue replace high pressure switch but couldn’t find low pressure which. Any ideas?
@hobieslug45 Thanks for the reply, Now I feel a little bit better about working around the stuff, I just hope some terrorest group don't know about making the poor mans nerve gas. I didn't know those old buses used that much freon. I drive bus myself but it's a bus body placed on an Internatonal 3200 truck frame. Was the buses you worked on the old GM's RTS2?
Great video Eric. My nissan sentra ac air is not that cold, the clutch clicks in. What do you think of those do it yourself refill freon you can buy at autozone? Does freon eventually leak from your car?
forgot to mention, i made sure the system was empty then i added a whole tiny can of pag or ester oil. i think that is why it lasted so long. that ac was super cold. you actually don't need a kit. i figure, if you cant get any more r12 or don't want to pay the crazy price for it, you might as well try it, cause if it messes up the system , you were going to be without ac anyway. i also think you can by r12 on ebay for eight bucks a can.
Eric, not sure if you will see this, but in Australia ford has the falcons still, but there has been an issue where new cars have an issue cooling the air when ac is on, and it turns out, ford designed it that if you had the ac running and you would step on the accelerator or "gas" they would cut the ac to give you more engine power. There are some days where the ac would be set on cold but putting out a temp higher then outside. Any thoughts on improving this?
Eric since you're closed down now, you won't see this... FYI for those who see this video now I'm pretty sure you don't allow hot air into a car with the A/C on. Now you're trying to cool a car with 80+ degree air coming into the vents. Put the controls on recirculation as they show on other videos.
I think you missed the point. You're not trying to cool the car. You're testing the cooling potential of the AC. In this case on how cool it can cool the air from the outside ambient temperature. The whole point being it is nothing more than a diagnostic. Obviously if you are using the AC normally and are trying to cool the car, you'd have the recirculate on. Which of course will get you cooler temperatures as the air recirculates through the AC.
I vacuumed my 1984 dodge d150. converted it to r134a by that I mean I put the retrofit high side and low side adapter on them. and added refrigerant. it cools and compressor kicks on but on two of my old vehicles that I did it only cools to 60degress. why is that? I can't figure out !
Hey Eric i have a question, why does my car's ac compressor clicks hard in the morning when i go to work? it clicks hard again when i drive home from work once the car has cooled off? The hard click only happens when the car has been parked for a few hours. After the initial click, the compressor engages fine. Any help would be appreciate it.
I really need this A/C help - it's as though it works on and off. When I turn on the car and the A/C, the air coming out is not cold, the compressor clutch is not engaged, etc. Occasionally, while driving, I'll get a blast of cold air all of a sudden that holds for a while. Every time I check under the hood, the compressor is not spinning - it's as if it doesn't want me to catch it working. I thought there might have been a leak in the high side (bad o-ring), but there's still pressure there!
@Michiganborn1969 the only time this gas is deadly is if you burn it as getting it suck in your intake . then what will come out of the exhaust pipe is a nerve gas that was used in ww1. the small amout used in cars is very unlikely to replace the air you breath . Ive worked on old gmc busses that had 80 lbs. of freon and would bust lines wide open and never had a problem. this stuff is heaver than air so maybe if you fill up a pit with the gas
Hi Eric. I have a Honda accord V6 95. The Ac is not too cold even after recharge . I noticed that when i turn on the AC there is no water coming out of the AC drain hose (is it normal). On the hand there is no water puddle inside the car. Another problem is bad smell when I turn on my fan whether AC is on or not. I noticed there is a foam piece (acts like a filter) attached to blower fan housing. I wonder if that piece needs to be taken out as its old and causing the odor. Please advice. Thanks
@markco30 The compressor is at it's most efficient when at 2K or higher, if you are testing what the system for what it can do you want to give it a chance to perform in it's operating range. Great question BTW.
@infinity3jif It may be more than that, whenever you have a compressor go it has the potential to send metal all throughout the system messing everything up that's why many reman compressors come with a filter that must be installed. My point is that in addition to being able to evacuate the system it may need to be flushed for the new compressor to last.
My 1982 Corolla still uses R12, I haven't converted yet, leak was found and fixed 6 years ago, and the AC still works. The most important thing in this vid: FIX the leak, no telling how much longer your system will last.
@tmz90 I'm not sure really but it may be that there is too much oil in the system or that the compressor stiffens up after it sits but after it warms up it's fine. I would not worry about it unless your AC performance is compromised.
@tmz90 I recommend taking it to a professional as there could be more than one issue that can cause poor cooling and if there is a leak it needs to be repaired or else your just wasting your money trying to put more in as it will just leak out.
@Vivianpham105 No, in fact I doubt you could even factor that into the equation. I think the reason they want it on low is because they have established that as the benchmark reading, if it can perform at it's lowest setting it's reasonable to assume it will also work at higher speeds.
i had a 87 accord with a r12 system. the system was empty so i just put in a couple cans of r134 and that ac worked perfectly for 9 years. i only had to add about half a can a year. i spliced the end of a r12 hose onto a r134 hose. i don't suggest using adapters cause they leak. the secret to my success was the fact that i also used the ac in the winter to defog. never changed o rings or anything. my method was add oil til it got cold then stop right away to avoid over fill.
@polypolyman You might want to take it in to get professionally checked as it's not likely that it's working intermittently as you suggest I think it might be more likely that it's not working at all but sometimes you get to a cold spot and it makes it through the vents. The fact is that I don't know for sure so I would recommend taking it to someone that has the proper equipment to diagnose it.
@lineartechbd1600 When you buy a 'retrofit' kit at the dealer it's just those adapters in a small box and a can of new oil. It would have been better if you could have evacuated the system before you put the 134A in but what you did really isn't all that different than what you would get at the dealer is my point.
@Miamiguy82 At first I was going to suggest replacing your cabin filter but you may have a problem with the doors in the HVAC that control airflow, this could be that they are not getting the signals that they need or some other issue, you'll have to check the service manual for your vehicle to be honest.
@Flysohighx21 Make sure your condenser is free of debris for starters, replace your cabin air filter if you have one and if after all that you still suspect it can do better take it to a professional to have the pressures checked to see if it's functioning as good as it can.
@JTheGuitarPlayer Glad to be of service, thanks for your comment and good luck in school.
@kidcool1977 I don't recommend doing it that way as you really should be reading the pressures to ensure you have the proper charge as well as vacuuming the system down to check for leaks first before you charge it to prevent moisture from ruing the system.
@Chris07860 If your set to defrost it's normal. Most HVAC systems turn on the AC during defrost to make it work more efficiently.
@manu175 AC problems are always more complicated than most people give credit especially on older cars that used to run R12, I would recommend you take it to a professional to be properly diagnosed. I don't believe that 'filter' has anything to do with it. Good luck.
@01281GT Check your cooling fans to see if they are operational when the AC is engaged, if not you probably have a problem in the fan circuit.
@americantractors I have lots of experience and the tools to do this kind of work and don't recommend that anyone that doesn't understand the system or has the proper equipment to work on AC as I've seen a lot of problems caused not to mention the environmental issues.
@TheAandrew52 If you know you have a leaking heater core it should be addressed as the air in the cooling system that results from a coolant leak will not allow the fans to work properly. If I get the opportunity to make that video I will but keep in mind in order for that to happen the same vehicle needs to come in with the same issue. Good luck.
@iloveheavymetal1 It sounds like it may be an electrical issue, you might want to take it to a professional to have it properly diagnosed, AC problems can be complicated to solve even for seasoned technicians.
Just watched another video, where they said to put it out in the hot sun, open all the windows and place it in the center vent, on Max. They were also taking temps at the evaporator and condenser, and looking what the difference was between the vent & the evaporator.
@TheAandrew52 You remove the motor from the inside, it's only held on by 3 fasteners if I'm not mistaken, remember to take the wiper off first.
For those with possible A/C problems in a VAG vehicle you may have an issue with the slow speed cooling fan circuit. This is a known problem of Volkswagen whereas the position, where the cooling fan should run when A/C is engaged, has blown. This causes the high speed to switch on every 20 secs or so which puts a heavy load on the 40A fuse on top of the battery. Keep in mind that when the high speed blows this fuse you no longer have engine cooling!
@infinity3jif my first vacuum pump was an refrigerator compressor . soldered some fitting on the suction line and it does the trick . It will even remove moisture if you run your car and get every thing hot do this on a hot day and turn your heater on to get the evap hot also
@americantractors if you have a leak detector you can pull the drain tub in to the cabin . dont run the car. leave it like this over night and in the morning (since freon is heavier than air ) check the floor where the tube is and if there is a leak it will accumulate on the floor . try not to disturbe the air when opening the door. If it is a big leak just put the leak detector up the tube
@hubbleISS That's probably the most common place for a system to leak. Thanks for your comment.
@MeowJW You can retrofit it and fill it with 134. The fact is however that the R12 will cool better than the 134A.
@ohblondi That may be a cabin filter that needs to be changed, see if your model has one and change it.
@702franklin NEVER USE SEALER IN THE AC SYSTEM. Replace the 'o' ring to fix it, sealers may ruin the system.
@americantractors yeah what I found out about electronic leak detectors is that they are hit and miss and price has nothing to do with accuracy. when I ran an a/c dept. I bought about 6 to 8 detectors and finally settled on a cheaper one that worked great. even on the smallest of leaks. other products I've had success with is the soap solutions like snoop or soaps that resemble liquid tire removing soaps. excellent on fittings
@polypolyman try jumping out your pressure switch for a second or two . not too long because you might have a high head pressure problem . all ways helps to mention the car make and model. If you have gauges put them on for this test
@jambe1234567 I'm not exactly clear on what your question is. As for humidity it pulls it out of the air in the same way a glass of water gets sweat on it on a warm day. If you have airflow going into the vents instead of out then you probably have a problem with the air mix doors inside of the HVAC or the blower motor is wired up incorrectly.
@peelout40 Stay with the R12 as long as you can as it cools better than the 134A. Thanks for the comment.
@EricTheCarGuy I brought the car ('02 wrx wagon, btw) to my uncle for an unrelated problem, but he's also a master A/C technician. Without putting any gauges on, just by what I told him (system still has some pressure, occasionally hits a cold spot), he thought that my low side pressure was probably just a little low (he left his gauges at work, so couldn't say for sure), and that I should throw a can in. I'll do that, and see what comes of it.
@chicks123 Could be caliper slides or the brake pad sticking or a caliper problem. Watch the video I did on Disc Brake replacement for details on how to lube and deal with those parts.
@backlineguy48 Yes, the cooling system needs to be working properly for the best cooling performance.
@Begbucks Interesting solution, I like the way you think.
@iloveheavymetal1 I'm just happy to help. Good luck and keep me posted.
Does the AC work in your vehicle? AC Performance Test - EricTheCarGuy
Had to recharged this year and wouldn't you know it every body in the area wanted me to do theirs
Lol it used to. Then after a year or so, the compressor doesn't click on any more.
Check your high pressure switch and/or relay
@TheAandrew52 You kind of have to 'smack it' to knock it loose after you get the nut off, sometimes you need a puller but I don't often find that to be the case.
@writerofwriters69 That's true but that would not be an accurate measure of performance, you want to subject the system to the worst conditions possible to measure it's performance not make it easy for it.
ever since i found your youtube page last year i have watched almost all of your videos they are all great. i think it is funny that just about all of your videos have been posted within a few days before or after i go over the subject in my auto class lol
@jcb1972 Unless you have a proper set of gauges and know what your looking at I don't recommend it.
@IIGrayfoxII yes and if your using a hose don't angle the spay . spray the same way the air goes in
@iloveheavymetal1 It could be that your compressor has failed, this could spell real trouble as with some compressor failures it can ruin the entire system.
The shop I work for doesn't pay shit for ac.. They put an AC performance test on the ticket, which is only about .3 hours, and expect me to do an evac, pull vacuum on the system, and recharge. Is this right? I had a car today that they put a performance test on, and the ac clutch wasn't engaging. so I asked for a evac+recharge, or diagnostic time. And they told me to "just had a little bit of freon until the clutch engages" wtf? I wasn't trained to add freon to an unknown system until the AC clutch engages. Can you comment on this please? I've about had enough of this place.
@Anacinc Great tip, thanks for posting.
@IIGrayfoxII Great tip's, thanks for the comment.
@Vanuatoo Yes it is.
@Flysohighx21 Put it on Max AC and make sure you are on recirculate.
@dseries16 Well that's timely, I'm glad you like the videos, thanks for the comment.
@Drew99GT I've never seen that in the service manual but your trying to measure the cooling systems' ability to cool the air coming in from the outside, not cool the air inside the passenger compartment as that would not be an accurate measure of performance in my opinion.
@Danlovesmakinvids Most of them are friends vehicles so yes.
I think PAG oil can absorb moisture but evacuating the system with a vaccuum pump should remove the moisture. The compressor in the Grand Am I fixed must be working good because the system is blowing nice and cold and the pressures read properly, if the compressor was shot the readings would be different.
Spring lock tool?
@hobieslug45 Yea, that was a bad idea. Thanks for the comment.
I wonder when will Eric show how to take the a/c apart, put it back, do an evacuation and recharge the correct way. I have a leak on my suction hose. the refrigerant already all leaked out along with some of the oil. I wonder how much and the type of pag oil to put back in. I cant wait. It is getting warmer and warmer here down south.
hey Eric i had a mishap recharging my dads 1998 Honda Civic. i used the gauge the r134a came with and it had about 23psi before i charged it and ended at 27psi before i went on a drive. i drove easy for about 2 miles and decided i better get up in rpms to make sure there went any leaks or force stuff out to see if there were. well when i did, i got it to about 5k rpm and heard a pop. the safety valve on the back of the compressor puked refridge everywhere but now it has psi but clutch is on +off
@axenz1 Got a few of them that hang around the shop, they like spring.
@Miamiguy82 Thanks for the comment.
+EricTheCarGuy I have a 1994 Toyota Camry V6LE that sometimes cools extremely well and other times at all we have had a new compressor put in and fresh charge
@Michiganborn1969 It's not deadly but the environmental concerns are real and I wouldn't be surprised if they make it so you have to have a license to use 134 in the same way they did with R12 at some point. You really need the proper equipment and a good working knowledge of AC to be effective all that aside.
Hi. I have an issue with my ac. With the engine and ac off there is 90 psi pressure on both high and low side. When ac running the low side drops down to about 80 psi and the high side goes up to about 95 psi. There is some cold air coming out from dash but it is just about fresh. There is definitely gas in the system as it was working before and it suddenly stopped working. I have had some spare gas in a bottle so I've put it in the system but no change. The engin idle does not change when I turn on the ac. Any ideas how to identify the faulty part?
Cheers
Peter
My AC system was empty because the motor was taken out to paint the engine bay. I was melting in the 100+ degree weather and got a can of refrigerant at the auto store. I added it to the car in the parking lot and was relieved. Now I'm freaking out wondering how much oil my system has or needs. Is there a way to check? Should I start over and apply vacuum and refill? Even then how much oil is needed? Thanks a million!
@mrdodgeram1999 If you can move more air through the condenser the AC should work more efficiently but whether or not it will cool better will depend on the pressures in the system.
Please can you make a video on replacing the AC compressor, discharge and recharge ?
you have to be careful when cleaning the condenser, use a low pressure water and a soft bursh and use a soft force as the fins are very delicate and can bend easy
this is from my cars user manual
and for those who have a pre 94 car your car may use R-12 which is no longer used and is banned, cars after 94 use R134a
@Bushougoma
Thanks for ythe reply. I guess if it came down to it. I could just work on the hardware parts (compressors & hoses) myself & leave the gases to the experts. Guess with the discriptions of some of the deadly gases you mentioned I suppose I better try cutting back if not quitting all together on the Pall Malls lol.
@EricTheCarGuy I think this is only true when you put 134 in a sys that was set up for 12 making it seem like the 12 is a better freon . yes the 134 has higher head pressure but that is compensated buy a larger condenser and hi side lines. the boiling point pressures are basically the same so you can easily get that freon down to the 32 degree point.( proof is that the expansion vlvs works in either one.) If I had a choice I would want r-12 in a 134a set up with an adjustable exp. vlv.
Finally figured out the opening "noise" BULLITT! Steve McQueen's Mustang fastback! Was it a 302?
@7477238 Hm, OK, thanks! I have just heard that when the AC-System is over a half year open (hole, ect.) the compressor is 99% dead too because of moisture ect.
A new dryer and condenser lies already in my garage, then i only need one of those spring-lock tools... :)
@MeowJW or maybe it was pag oil. anyway, i think the oil is what made it last so long. i made sure the system was bone dry and empty before i did it.
@Flysohighx21 do what etcg says and if that doesn't work check your return line (suction line) it should be sweating ,on a hot day, if not there is a problem
have to add 3 cans every year because it leaks out every winter but need to get the seals replaced so I can quit adding
I think the AC system is the only thing I don't think I would ever tinker with. Am I correct that even if inhaled accidentally that R-134 is deadly?
@hopper1 Good point, thanks for posting.
@hoooooops Nah. Replace your receiver/drier or accumulator though depending on the car you have. I just replaced a smashed condenser and accumulator on a Grand Am. Evac and recharge = ice cold :)
@jambe1234567 I would recommend you watch the video I did on AC operation as I go through the explanation of how AC works and why it works the way it does.
@MrDookie2011 Eventually yes but keep in mind my videos are based off of the work that comes into my shop so I have to wait till a car comes in that needs that service and I need the time to video the repair.
So it is normal for the compressor to shut on and off because the first 2 cans I put in the fans and compressor ran continuously but when I added the 3rd can the compressor comes on and off . Also there is an item they sell, you put it on your AC line and it helps the cooling efficiency, I haven't tried it but when I do I'll post my result
Eric I have a problem that is driving me crazy I have a Ford F-150 2015 that is short cycling compressor clutch will engage for 3 mins then it starts and stops which never gets the car cool enough because never stays on my gauges when engage show proper charge I will evacuate system vacuum and recharge by weight specs and it still has same issue replace high pressure switch but couldn’t find low pressure which. Any ideas?
@spelunkerd This is actually the second video, I also did one on how AC works. Thanks for the comment.
@hobieslug45
Thanks for the reply, Now I feel a little bit better about working around the stuff, I just hope some terrorest group don't know about making the poor mans nerve gas. I didn't know those old buses used that much freon. I drive bus myself but it's a bus body placed on an Internatonal 3200 truck frame. Was the buses you worked on the old GM's RTS2?
Would you never thermometer test whilst driving the car?
Great video Eric. My nissan sentra ac air is not that cold, the clutch clicks in. What do you think of those do it yourself refill freon you can buy at autozone? Does freon eventually leak from your car?
Much cheaper to add a can of Freon once or twice a year than have shop work on it...
you know your old when you use to use r-12 and 22 to cool off your can of coke. that was when DuPont told us this stuff was safe.
forgot to mention, i made sure the system was empty then i added a whole tiny can of pag or ester oil. i think that is why it lasted so long. that ac was super cold. you actually don't need a kit. i figure, if you cant get any more r12 or don't want to pay the crazy price for it, you might as well try it, cause if it messes up the system , you were going to be without ac anyway. i also think you can by r12 on ebay for eight bucks a can.
Eric, not sure if you will see this, but in Australia ford has the falcons still, but there has been an issue where new cars have an issue cooling the air when ac is on, and it turns out, ford designed it that if you had the ac running and you would step on the accelerator or "gas" they would cut the ac to give you more engine power. There are some days where the ac would be set on cold but putting out a temp higher then outside. Any thoughts on improving this?
Eric since you're closed down now, you won't see this... FYI for those who see this video now I'm pretty sure you don't allow hot air into a car with the A/C on. Now you're trying to cool a car with 80+ degree air coming into the vents. Put the controls on recirculation as they show on other videos.
I think you missed the point. You're not trying to cool the car. You're testing the cooling potential of the AC. In this case on how cool it can cool the air from the outside ambient temperature. The whole point being it is nothing more than a diagnostic. Obviously if you are using the AC normally and are trying to cool the car, you'd have the recirculate on. Which of course will get you cooler temperatures as the air recirculates through the AC.
I vacuumed my 1984 dodge d150. converted it to r134a by that I mean I put the retrofit high side and low side adapter on them. and added refrigerant. it cools and compressor kicks on but on two of my old vehicles that I did it only cools to 60degress. why is that? I can't figure out !
yeah! same thing i noticed!! that's a dual zone a/c vehicle!
Hey Eric i have a question, why does my car's ac compressor clicks hard in the morning when i go to work? it clicks hard again when i drive home from work once the car has cooled off? The hard click only happens when the car has been parked for a few hours. After the initial click, the compressor engages fine. Any help would be appreciate it.
I tested both with recirc mode and fresh air mode. On fresh air I got the usual 46 but with recirc mode I got 59. Is this normal?
@Bushougoma In florida they also wanted you to have a recycling machine in your name. don't know if this is still the case
I really need this A/C help - it's as though it works on and off. When I turn on the car and the A/C, the air coming out is not cold, the compressor clutch is not engaged, etc. Occasionally, while driving, I'll get a blast of cold air all of a sudden that holds for a while. Every time I check under the hood, the compressor is not spinning - it's as if it doesn't want me to catch it working. I thought there might have been a leak in the high side (bad o-ring), but there's still pressure there!
What if your AC seems to cool well, but the blower speed coming out of the vents seems weak.
@Michiganborn1969 the only time this gas is deadly is if you burn it as getting it suck in your intake . then what will come out of the exhaust pipe is a nerve gas that was used in ww1. the small amout used in cars is very unlikely to replace the air you breath . Ive worked on old gmc busses that had 80 lbs. of freon and would bust lines wide open and never had a problem. this stuff is heaver than air so maybe if you fill up a pit with the gas
@EricTheCarGuy carrier mobile a/c will void warranty if a sealer is found in their system
Hi Eric. I have a Honda accord V6 95. The Ac is not too cold even after recharge . I noticed that when i turn on the AC there is no water coming out of the AC drain hose (is it normal). On the hand there is no water puddle inside the car. Another problem is bad smell when I turn on my fan whether AC is on or not. I noticed there is a foam piece (acts like a filter) attached to blower fan housing. I wonder if that piece needs to be taken out as its old and causing the odor. Please advice. Thanks
This helps me, thanks for all your AC vids.
@GmTruckCarLove can you find out from your dad what the stuff is, I would greatly appreciate it.